Do-it-yourself interior decoration of a frame house - choose the right materials. A variety of options for interior decoration of frame houses Wall covering frame houses

After building a house frame technology finishing work begins. First, rough finishing of floors, walls and ceilings is carried out, for example, with oriented strand boards or gypsum boards. In the future, they are applied finishing Decoration Materials: plaster, wallpaper, tile, wall paneling, timber board, etc.

For rough and fine finishes, there is a choice between alternatives. Each of them has its own specifics, appropriately suited to certain operating conditions.

The challenge is to choose the best option, it is not worth paying for outstanding material properties if they are not used.

Peculiarities

Internal finishing works consist of two main parts: rough and finish. The first includes the choice of material for wall cladding, their insulation, floor screed, installation of window systems and doors, slopes for them.

Internal walls can be sheathed:

drywall;
wood boards, such as OSB.

After that, the final lining begins, the following materials are suitable for it:

lining;
wallpaper;
decorative plaster;
ceramic tile;
flexible stone, etc.

Correctly and beautifully bricked sheathing frame is also quite popular today. This is ideal, for example, for giving. DSP and other materials can also be used.

materials

When choosing a material, it is important to take into account the specifics of the room: what it is intended for and what the operating conditions will be.

Drywall

The material, which allows achieving perfect evenness and smoothness of the walls, is distinguished by an affordable price, but weakly resists loads.

With the help of drywall, it is easy to create various bumpers, ledges and other relief decorative elements.

Other features of the GCR include the following points:

relative lightness simplifies finishing work, the material does not load the structure;
perfectly hides the unevenness of the finished surface;
cannot be used for flooring;
poor moisture resistance (except for a special subspecies);
easy installation on a profile frame;
inside the frame, you can carry out communications: pipes and wiring, as well as place additional insulation;
short finishing work.

OSB

A material somewhat similar to gypsum plasterboard: it gives a smooth and even base for finishing work, it also compares favorably affordable price. The characteristic differences include higher strength and a significantly larger mass, which determines other requirements for the room and the structure as a whole.

Features of oriented strand boards include:

need more durable mounting means, at least two people are required to work on their fastening due to the significant weight of the sheet;
can be used to cover any surface: walls, ceiling, floor;
more moisture resistant than GKL, but still need additional varnishing.

timber imitation

The material is distinguished by excellent operational and aesthetic qualities, it can act both as a rough and fine wall finish. The main disadvantage is the relatively high price of the material.

So that the finish does not visually resemble lining, it is recommended to use panels with a width of more than 90 mm.

Other characteristic features of timber imitation include:

excellent heat and noise insulation;
outwardly indistinguishable from more expensive analogues: profiled and glued beams;
does not shrink or crack;
easy to install, one person can do the work, a reliable fastening system ensures the structural integrity of the wall;
a huge number of wood species determines a wide selection of textures and shades with a characteristic pleasant smell;

moisture resistance depends on the selected breed;
price variability, there are both budget options with good qualities (pine, spruce, etc.), and expensive species with more impressive properties (oak, cedar, tropical species), while imitation timber is cheaper than profiled or glued counterparts;
resistance to temperature extremes;
high flammability, the level of which can be reduced by flame retardant impregnations;
susceptibility to fungal mold at high humidity, may be reduced by antiseptic impregnations;
requires constant updating of the protective coating - varnish;
rotary and corner elements have a higher cost.

Wallpaper

A finishing material that provides a wide choice not only in terms of aesthetic diversity, but also in terms of species. Wallpapers on various bases (paper, non-woven, vinyl and fiberglass) differ in operational features and are used for various specifics of the indoor environment.

To characteristic features also include:

huge selection external execution, including texture, color, pattern, width of rolls;
easy installation does not require professional skills, can be carried out by one person.

Features by subspecies:

paper vulnerable to moisture, have poor wear resistance and durability, low price;
vinyl resistant to mechanical stress, moisture resistant and durable;
non-woven serve as an excellent base for decorative painting;
fiberglass have high strength and uncharacteristic for wallpaper fire safety, lend themselves well to coloring.

clapboard

A wooden product with a pleasant appearance and greater affordability than timber or its imitation. Suitable for all lovers of environmentally friendly materials and savings. Other properties of the lining include:

a wide selection of wood species with a specific texture and shade;
high resistance to abrasion and mechanical stress;
the smell of wood has a positive effect on the mood and well-being of residents;

good noise and heat insulating properties;
price variability: lining differs in cost not only by wood species, but also by grade, which makes it more affordable and allows you to use it even with low incomes;
needs to be coated with a protective compound and its cyclic renewal;
good combustible - weak Fire safety, can be reduced by flame retardant impregnation;
susceptible to fungal mold, can be reduced with an antiseptic solution.

Plaster

Finishing decorative plaster fits well on walls already finished with GKL or OSB and creates smooth surface with great looks.

The main properties of plaster include:

a wide selection of colors and shades;
resistance to temperature difference;
good moisture resistance;
the non-porous structure enhances thermal insulation, but hinders the natural ventilation of the walls;
if you want to redo the finish, the high strength of the material will turn out to be a minus, its dismantling will require a lot of effort.

Ceramic tile

Classic finishing material with excellent decorative qualities. You can also highlight the following characteristic features:

a wide range of colors, patterns and textures of the product;
complete waterproofing and immunity to direct water ingress;
durability;
full naturalness of the components;
high resistance to pressure and abrasion;
high-quality styling requires hiring a specialist;
difficulty when facing rounded and rotary surfaces.

flexible stone

modern material, imitating the natural counterpart, it is flexible and plastic, and its texture is fully consistent with the original and just as beautiful. It is realized in the form of plates and wallpapers. Other features of flexible stone are:

high resistance to abrasion, pressure and shock loads;
environmentally friendly composition;
can cover surfaces with complex geometry;
processed and mounted easier than analogue;
durable, but inferior to the original.

Design

For facing residential premises, you can use the entire list of finishing materials.

When decorating a kitchen it is worth considering its specifics: high humidity and pollution in the cooking area, so for the “apron” it is better to choose a waterproof and easy-to-clean material, for example, ceramic tiles, flexible stone, plaster.
for bathroom, characterized by high humidity, all the same tiles, plaster are suitable, followed by painting with a moisture-resistant vapor-permeable type of paint: rubber, vinyl or acrylic.
For children abrasion and impact resistant, safe, cleanable materials will be appropriate: for walls fit laminate or lining with staining, decorative plaster, linoleum, parquet, laminate on the floor.

How to do it yourself?

If you choose the option of finishing the house with your own hands, you must follow a certain methodology so as not to complicate the process with unnecessary waste of time and rework costs.

The decoration of the premises should be progressive: it is necessary to move from one completed room to the next. Finishing all rooms at the same time is inconvenient and impractical.
Repair of premises begins from the farthest end of the house from the door and moves in their direction. This sequence is associated with the need to take out the garbage, and, accordingly, dust and dirt, if you start from the door, the finished rooms will quickly get dirty.
It is necessary to start finishing work only after laying all communications: pipes, wiring, ventilation ducts and other things.

Finishing is done "from top to bottom": first the ceiling, then the walls, then the floor. This is due to debris falling down: if you start from the floor, then when finishing the ceiling, the floor covering and walls will get dirty. The only exception is dropped ceilings, they are mounted last.
All surfaces that are not related to the front of finishing work at this stage should be covered with a film to protect against debris. Thus, in the future it will not be necessary to clean them from excessive pollution. Of course, this concerns finished surfaces in the first place.

The duration of finishing work depends on several factors:

type of finishing work: painting the plasterboard is much faster than finishing the walls with a board under a bar, and then varnishing;
availability of building materials: if they are not previously purchased for the entire scope of work, there may be delays in delivery, lack of necessary items in the warehouse, etc.;
financial support;
other nuances.

With continuous work, finishing a house with an area of \u200b\u200babout 40 square meters. m takes a month, for an area of 60 sq. m this period increases to 1.5-2 months and so on. Starting finishing with my own hands, it should be borne in mind that these are the terms for permanent work, time for which there may not be, and then the finish will drag on for years. An alternative solution is to hire a team of workers, which will reduce the time by several times.

How to choose a facade for a frame house?

Finishing a frame house from the outside is not an easy task, mainly due to the variety of facade finishing materials.

Exterior finish of a frame house. What material to choose?

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Frame house - wooden house. Finishing a frame house is quite an interesting business.

Due to the versatility of its design, the facade of a frame house can be anything: from a wooden one to a “wet facade” and even a real brick. Finishing a frame house on the outside can be almost anything, depending on the wishes and financial capabilities of a person.

In this article, we will look at not only how to choose a facade for a frame house, but what should be pie wall frame for high-quality execution of a particular facade.

1. Facade of a frame house made of vinyl siding.

how to vinyl siding frame house exterior installed quite often, probably this is the most popular and affordable option. This is a budget option and looks quite tolerable. I finished my own house with it, however, vertically, I liked it more as enough unusual option You have probably already seen the photos in other posts.

Vinyl siding facade pies:

A. Ventilated
Interior decoration (often GKL) - vapor barrier film - frame with insulation - OSB-3 - hydro-windproof membrane - counter-lattice 50 × 25 (counter, because it goes parallel to the racks, and not like a crate - perpendicular) - siding.
It should be clarified that in Canada itself, judging by the reviews of builders, they almost never do this, but in Russia the climate is slightly different, so it is recommended to do siding with a ventilated facade for insurance.

B. Non-ventilated(Canadian version).
Interior decoration (often GKL) - vapor barrier film - frame with insulation - OSB-3 - hydrowindproof membrane - siding.

Siding installation:

The price is from 350 rubles per sq.m. for the most budget siding, but with more or less normal siding, all 500 rubles per sq.m. will come out.

2. Facade of a frame house made of painted facade boards (Swedish-Finnish version)

Usually in Scandinavia, the finishing of a frame house on the outside is a high-quality wooden board or imitation of a bar. good quality. Moreover, the front side of the board should be with a pile for better absorption of paint, and all other parts should be planed. Such exterior finish the frame looks very dignified, although it takes quite a long time to install such a board.

There are several important subtleties wooden board for the facade and frame finishing:

— Need grinding one side (as I said). After that, you need to apply a primer to the entire board during the first two days, while the pores of the wood are open.
- After primers, before attaching the board to the facade, you need to paint it on all sides in one layer.
– We fasten the board to the facade, 2 nails 60 mm (galvanized) into each purlin through the board (or flat if you want to hide the nails)
- The gap between the boards should be about 2mm (nail)
- Apply 2 more coats of paint.

If everything is done exactly according to the technology, such a board can stand without additional coloring according to 8-12 years old(only high-quality paint is needed, for example, Nordic Eco 3330, Tikkurila or Teknos).

Wooden facades on the frame almost always make ventilated, otherwise they will rot.

That's why frame house facade pie with an imitation of a bar or a front board, it usually looks like this:
Interior decoration (GKL or lining) - vapor barrier film - frame with insulation - OSB-3 (the Finns put soft fiberboard instead of it and then do not put a membrane) - hydro-windproof membrane - 50 × 25 counter-lattice - facade board.

In the case of a vertical board on the facade, after the counter-lattice it also goes on top horizontal crate about the same section.

AT Russian version wooden facade as a finish of a frame house, often the imitation of a bar is replaced with an ordinary edged board or lining. Nothing fundamentally changes from this, except that the lining is often put in a “herringbone”, like this:

There are also several options for a wooden vertical board on the facade “with a flashing”.

Minuses: combustibility, the need to tint after a certain number of years.

The price is around 650 rubles per sq.m- (price for 2017) with your own hands (with painting in 3 layers and a primer not with your own hands).

3. Finishing the facade of the house with fiber cement siding

One of the most famous - fiber cement siding Eternit. Feels like ceramic tiles to the touch. There is also Latonite, it is cheaper, but not as high quality. Exterior finish frame houses from Eternite looks rich.

pros: strong, durable (durability is promised about 30 years). It is painted in the factory, so it does not fade for decades.

Minuses: high price, non-trivial installation (150 page manual), difficult to do it yourself if you have no experience yet. Misunderstandings with additional elements. Corners are often sealed with metal or wood.

Per sq.m.= 1000-1500 rubles

4. The facade of the house from clinker tiles or artificial stone according to the "wet facade" system

Exterior finish of a frame house according to the "wet facade" system requires high level training and skills. But in short, then:

Attach OSB-3 to the racks of the frame house. Attach foam plastic 50-100 mm to it (it is better with a special fastener, and not glue). Then you make the first reinforcing layer, self-tapping screws and clamping bushings, the second base reinforcing layer, and then attach the clinker tile or fake diamond weighing up to 44 kg/m2.

It turns out the so-called "wet facade". A wet facade is needed so that there is something to attach the finish to; it is not recommended to attach it directly to the foam.

Price 500-800 rub/m2, but for the work another 1200 rubles / m2.

To my house = do it yourself 150 thousand rubles, strangers 250 thousand rubles.

5. Stucco facade of a frame house

5.1. According to the "wet facade" system
Everything is as in the previous paragraph, only instead of tiles or stone - paint.

Non-specialists will not distinguish your house from a stone one.

The components of this façade:
— Glue Baumit KlebeSpachtel
– Valmierovo mesh facade
— Primer Baumit UniversalGrund
– plaster Baumit SilikonPutz coat 2mm
- Styrofoam

5.2. Plaster facade on DSP

For this option, a cement-bonded particle board is used, followed by a joker.

Layers by DSP: primer - Knauf Sevener on fiberglass - primer - Knauf Diamant

Knauf Diamant is already painted white. Paint is not needed.

6. Brick facade. Really?

Brick facade in recent times also actively used in the decoration of the frame house. When facing frame houses, both “solid” brick and “hollow” brick can be used.

fastened brick to frame wall is done like this:

Read more at brickwork like the facade of a frame house and (search the page for the word “brick”).

7. Facade of a frame house made of DSP under fachwerk

- a slab of cement (most) and wood. She doesn't burn. She is practically not afraid of moisture (especially if soaked with drying oil).

Of the minuses of the DSP: the plates are very heavy, and it is also very difficult to cut them + dust flies a lot from this. In addition, it cannot be nailed just like that, you must first drill holes. Also, according to eyewitnesses, the DSP in the frame often cracks, so it is better to close the cracks with wooden planks “under the fachwerk”.

But many simply install DSP and paint with water-based paint. And nothing bad seems to happen.

Price per sq.m.= 215 rubles.

8. Finishing the facade of a frame house with metal siding

I saw several people on the forum who finished their house metal siding and very satisfied. Metal as the exterior trim of the frame is still a rarity. The price is cheaper than vinyl, because. it does not need almost any additional elements, and for vinyl additional elements make up 50% of the cost.

Pros of metal siding: strength, ease of attachment, speed of work
Minuses: shields, aesthetics for an amateur, can be corroded, easily scratched, heated, condensation may occur.

Must be installed with ventilation gap in the facade, like regular siding.

Price per sq.m.= 500 rubles

9. Finishing LP Smart Side siding panels based on OSB.

The material is new for Russia and is made on the basis of OSP-4. Some praise him, some scold him. For the price, it is in the middle between ordinary siding and fiber cement. You can read reviews and opinions about it.

It is known that a cake is needed for him with a ventilation gap.

Video comparing its strength to that of fiber cement siding

Smartside Plus in that you only need to paint one side of the siding, and not 4 sides, as is the case with the board. paint acrylic paint, in two layers. Joints need to be coated with acrylic sealant (A la Titanium for siding).

Another plus is durability: they promise 50 years.
Minuses that smartside is 2-3 times thinner wooden board and unnatural.

Price about 1100 rubles per sq.m.
Price for my house = 180 thousand rubles

10. FSF plywood with fachwerk painting on a frame house

Perhaps on the forum you read reviews of such technology, topics appear quite often.

FSF plywood is attached to the frame and painted in 3 layers (primer + 2 layers of covering paint). Inner side covered with one layer of soil.

But estimate for the facade frame house in the photo:
Softwood plywood FSF 9 mm, 1220x2440 mm, grade 2/3, NSh — 56 pcs — 35,784.00
Paint Tikkurila Pika-Teho, white, matte, - 18 liters - 9,908.00
Priming composition of Tikkurila Valtti Phyuste - 18 liters - 7,508.00
Self-tapping screws galvanized 4x50 3 kg - 615
Paint brush 1 pc – 90.00
Sealant gun 1 pc – 106.00
Frost-resistant silicone sealant 5 pcs — 540.00
Total 54,006.00(at 2018 prices)

Price per sq.m. turns out to be about 300 rub.

11. Finishing the carcass with Gaunt (shingles).

Original, beautiful and very expensive. Price about 1200 rubles per sq.m.

Personally, I met live very infrequently.

Made with a vent. You also need to make a gap between the shingles themselves.

Many families today can solve the issue of housing with the help of technology frame construction. Thanks to modern building materials, frame houses are warm, durable and reliable structures. The interior decoration of a frame house is the most pleasant stage of construction, when the issues of arranging rooms are being resolved, and the moment of settling is getting closer. Treat it with due responsibility - everything must be done thoroughly.

Preparatory work - we harness for a long time, we go fast

The most important stage internal works- it's insulation. You can’t save on it - in the future, such savings will result in high heating costs. But having spent once on, you will forget about big bills for utilities. Warming, like any process, should begin with preparatory work.

First of all, check the level of all racks and beams for deviations from the vertical and horizontal directions. If everything was done correctly during the construction of the frame, only small deviations resulting from the warping of dried wood are permissible. An electric plane will help to correct irregularities, and in the corners - hewing with an ax. Of course, you can carry out the alignment in each of the rooms separately, but we recommend that you perform preparatory work all over the house at once.

To align the floor beams, wooden wedges are hammered in at the points of their attachment - be patient, as very painstaking and tedious work awaits you. However, the time spent will pay off with the ease of installation of sheathing materials and perfectly flat surfaces. Then finish the wooden structural elements with flame retardants and antiseptics. Warming usually starts from the floor, so that later it would be more convenient to move around inside the rooms and perform other work.

Thermal insulation of the floor and ceiling - we prevent heat loss

Before laying the subfloor between the beams, check once again that the pipes in the underground space are correctly installed, and that there is no debris or sawdust left. The space inside the foundation for better ventilation is covered with sand or fine-grained expanded clay.

For subfloors use ordinary boards- the quality of their front side does not play a role, so they can be with knots and bumps. Provide outlets for pipes in the floor. Then, wind and waterproofing is laid on the subfloor - the membranes are fixed with a construction stapler to the beams. Can be used for floor insulation the following options:

Be sure to leave an opening for the hatch in the bathroom or pantry (if provided), which will lead to the underground space. An exit there is needed for servicing and checking the condition of plumbing, as well as inspecting the condition of the strapping beams and floors. By the way, it is also very convenient to store vegetables there, but make sure that rodents do not start. Lack of access to underground space is a construction mistake, and the sooner you fix it, the cheaper it will be.

The ceiling should be insulated without fail- hot air rises, and therefore, due to non-insulated ceilings, we often lose up to 30% of heat. In this case, it is convenient to use foam - it is easier to fix it between the crate. To close the insulation, drywall is usually used. A small finishing layer of putty and the ceiling can be painted or trimmed with decorative panels.

You should not dwell on just one ceiling insulation in the rooms - we advise you to insulate and attic space. To avoid unnecessary fuss, we recommend using modern sprayed thermal insulation materials - ecowool or polyurethane foam. Ecowool is cellulose, which is sprayed dry or wet on all surfaces. Polyurethane foam is an analogue of polyurethane foam, only in this case it is two-component. The components are mixed immediately before use and sprayed onto walls, floors and ceilings.

Both options have a great advantage over other heat-insulating materials - they create a monolithic layer of protection, in which cold bridges are excluded, they fill all voids and recesses.

Wall decoration - what to look for?

The next step is finishing the walls. If you intend to glue wallpaper or paint the walls, then you can use the same drywall (moisture resistant in the kitchen and bathroom), but most often the walls are finished with clapboard or false timber - this is beautiful, and practical, and environmentally friendly. In addition, if a small repair is necessary, the lining can be easily removed in the right places, and then returned to its place.

Even more fast option finishing walls - installation of wall and ceiling decorative and soundproof panels, which on the front side have an already glued layer of wallpaper or linen fabric. Such panels also improve thermal insulation, however, one should not rely on them alone. The tenon-groove connection allows you to perform work very quickly and efficiently, and the exact parameters of the panels allow you to create monolithic coating without gaps.

After completing all these works, it remains only to install partitions filled with mineral wool, mount window sills, slopes and install skirting boards. wooden surfaces inside the house it is very desirable to varnish - this is necessary to protect the wood from dust and moisture. If you want the wood to breathe and give off pleasant woody aromas, use a special oil that is usually used to coat parquet. The oil will protect the wood from moisture, but it will not close the pores.

Boiler room and bathroom - premises with special status

The interior decoration of a frame house, in addition to insulation and decorative effect, has the task of protecting wooden elements from the worst enemies of frame structures - fire and water. It is especially important to implement high-quality protection in the bathroom and boiler room.

In the bathroom, the wooden frame should be protected with moisture-resistant drywall, magnesite sheets are also suitable. A very important point - all joints and cracks should be sealed with a waterproof sealant. It is advisable to choose a mastic that does not completely harden, for example, hermobutyl. This material provides permanent elasticity and flexibility, does not crack, after years. It is recommended to coat the floor panels with sealant completely, also catching the lower edge of the walls to a height of 10–20 cm. This step is aimed at protecting the floor from possible leakage of pipes or equipment.

The heating boiler should be done in private room with separate entrance. Even if a fire situation arises inside the premises, it will be much easier for you or the firefighters to localize the source of ignition and prevent the fire from spreading to other rooms. The main task of finishing the boiler room is not beauty, but increased safety and fire resistance. Therefore, we recommend the use of cement-bonded particle boards (DSP).

These boards are usually used for facade works, since they do not absorb moisture, however, in this case, another parameter plays a role - fire resistance. wooden frame, covered with such plates, is able to withstand almost an hour high temperatures burning. In the case of covering the frame with drywall, the time to pay off open source fire will be half as much.

When frame house fully assembled, sheathed on the outside and equipped with all necessary communications, it remains only to complete the interior decoration of the building in order to get the finished look of the house. But at this stage, developers are often lost and do not know how to sheathe a frame house inside. After all, the variety of modern building materials often drives the master into a stupor. In our material, we will figure out what types of material are suitable for rough sheathing of a frame house from the inside, what materials are used for fine finishing and what are general principles finishing work.

Requirements for interior decoration

Before deciding on the material for cladding the interior of a frame house, we understand that both the rough and final cladding of rooms are performed only after the final wiring of electrical communications and water supply. Otherwise, all work will be nullified. Under the rough finish of a frame house, they mean sheathing the frame of the walls with a material suitable for the subsequent unhindered application of decorative sheathing. Fine finishing is the final decoration walls in accordance with the chosen interior design of the cottage. And in order for the work to proceed without a hitch, you should adhere to the basic rules:

Sheathing of walls with rough material is carried out from the back room of the house, moving towards the exit. In this case, the installation is carried out from the ceiling, along the walls and then the floor. Fine finishing is carried out in the same order in order to be able to close the already decorated room and prevent construction dust from entering the surface finished walls and ceiling.
Window blocks and other parts of the premises that are not involved in the decoration should be covered with a protective film.
Before performing work, it is necessary to calculate the exact amount wall material to avoid downtime later. In addition, it is recommended to buy materials with a margin of 10% in case of cutting, etc. There is a principle here - the more complex the wall cladding (configuration complexity), the more you can increase the margin percentage.

Materials for rough sheathing

In order to initially prepare the walls of a frame house for finishing, it is necessary to sheathe the frame of the walls with even panels. They will become the subsequent springboard for the manifestation of the creative potential of the owners. Most often, gypsum boards, OSB boards or lining are used for these purposes.

Gypsum board is a gypsum board with the addition of fiberglass. The result is a solid panel with a small thickness of 1-1.5 cm. Such panels are very convenient to use, although they have a relatively large weight for each plate. Drywall is very easy to work with. The material is cut without problems and does not crumble. And if necessary, you can even bend the panels, creating sloping corners or wall turns in the house. There are three types of drywall:

Moisture resistant (GKLV). Designed for cladding rooms with high humidity, such as a bath or kitchen. If we neglect this purpose of the panels and use ordinary stoves drywall, the fine finish of such premises will float over time.
Refractory (GKLO). Designed for lining the fireplace portal and other objects in the house that are subject to direct fire.
Standard drywall. Designed for wall cladding of living rooms of a frame house.
Acoustic drywall. Acts as a sound insulator in the house. It can also be used as a rough finish for the walls of rooms.
Gypsum sheet. This panel is characterized by high wear resistance and strength. Drywall wall decoration is the most commonly used.

OSB boards

Or oriented strand board. Such a panel is made from wood chips and fibers glued into a slab using resins and adhesives. The result is a strong and impact-resistant material that can withstand high mechanical and load-bearing loads. OSB boards are classified as follows:

OSB-1. The panels are suitable for use in standard humidity conditions or in furniture production.
OSB-2. Such boards are used as a basis for fine finishing indoors, subject to standard humidity.
OSB-3. The panels are suitable for indoor use. increased level humidity.
OSB-4. Material suitable for external cladding of premises as a base for subsequent facade finishing.
There is also a lacquered OSB board, laminated and grooved. The latter has special grooves and ridges for easier assembly of the skin into a single structure.

Important: OSB-3 and OSB-4 can also be used as a subfloor. Their strength withstands significant mechanical loads.

When installing OSB boards, it is necessary to take into account such moments and subtleties of the work:

It is necessary to fasten the OSB panels to the frame only using spiral nails, the length of which is 5 cm;
The pitch of the nails along the frame should be 15 cm;
Between the OSB panels and the wall, it is necessary to leave technical gaps of 1-2 cm for the linear expansion of the plates under the influence of temperature changes;
If the plates are mounted on the floor, then they should be laid perpendicular to the lag;
On the walls, the panels after installation can be further processed with fine-grained emery and varnished in several layers;
If the panels were mounted for painting or plastering, then they must first be primed.

clapboard

This type of wood paneling can be used both as a draft and as a finishing wall paneling of a frame house inside. If the owners have a desire to complete the interior of the house in a colorful natural style, then it is appropriate to use a lining, which can be placed simply on the mounted frame on top of the insulation. That is, when sheathing the frame, we immediately get a fine finish of the premises.

The lining is a thin long wooden panels, having a groove and a comb for easier assembly of the coating into a single sheet. As a rule, lining is made from coniferous wood, such as spruce, pine, larch. More expensive types of lining can be made from cedar, teak and more valuable woods. The finishing of such a sheathing consists in varnishing the wood.

The advantages of such wall cladding of a frame house are as follows:

There is no need to perform wet work in the house;
The finished sheathing is able to breathe, which ensures optimal air exchange in the house;
The color and attractiveness of the material create a cozy atmosphere in the premises;
With proper care, a tree can last 30 years or more.

Important: for beautiful cladding of the premises of a frame house, it is better to use an Extra or A class lining. Such lamellas are devoid of visible wood defects. If it is supposed to be lined with clapboard only auxiliary premises, such as a balcony or a vestibule, you can save money and purchase a class "B" or even "AB" lining. Here, on the lamellas, the presence of resin pockets, traces of knots, etc. is allowed.

Finishing materials

If you select a finishing sheathing material, then everything is as simple as possible. According to the intended design, you can smooth walls from drywall or OSB boards, apply the coatings below.