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What to make a suspended ceiling. How to make a false ceiling in the bathroom

The time has passed when the ceilings in the apartment were inconspicuous and monotonous. Modern designers are trying not only to pay attention to ceiling coverings, but also to focus on them. Great solution for this will be the use of a false ceiling.

The design of the suspended ceiling is quite simple. In this case, a metal frame is attached to the base, which can be decorated with a variety of elements, such as panels, rails, slabs and plasterboard sheets. This allows you to make the ceiling not only functional, but also attractive.

Thanks to a wide choice of materials, it is possible to create such suspended ceiling, which will fully comply with the style and overall framing of the room. At the same time, small decorative elements can be used in the design, echoing the main chosen style. As a result of this approach, the ceiling will not stand out against the general background, but will begin to harmonize with it and complement it.

Creating a false ceiling is a creative process. Here you can fantasize about the blue endless sky or deep space with its bright stars and flying comets. Some people may like the modern style, while others prefer the classics. Regardless of this, for every idea, you can create a stylish false ceiling.

The undoubted advantage of such structures is functionality. Unlike simple ceiling coverings, with a false ceiling you can hide cables, cords, pipes, ventilation equipment and other important, but not the most aesthetic things, under metal structure. In addition, in this way you can close the unpleasant flaws of the main ceiling.

Such ceiling panels are able to reduce the level of external noise, which allows you to maintain the inner silence of the room. In addition, the false ceiling prevents the penetration of cold air currents into the room, due to which the level of thermal insulation is very significant. With a special reflective coating, you can use less lighting fixtures, the illumination will always be normal. This method allows to reduce energy consumption.

Ceiling height in the room where the installation is supposed to be suspended structure, must be at least 2.5 meters. This factor must be taken into account, since when installing a false ceiling, the height of the room is significantly reduced.

What types of false ceiling are there?

Thanks to a wide range of types of suspended ceilings, you can choose the option that suits a wide variety of needs and embodies a lot of different ideas and ideas.

Plasterboard ceilings

This material lends itself perfectly to processing, so you can easily translate all your ideas into reality. To decorate the ceiling with drywall does not require a lot of skills and knowledge. Working with such material, you can create smooth lines and curves, curly cutouts and much more. If there is a desire, the ceiling can be made multi-level by mounting separate niches and ledges into it. You can decorate such a ceiling with lighting.

Variety of plasterboard ceiling finishes. Unique design solutions for different interiors premises.

Drywall consists of 2 sheets of flexible cardboard, the layer of which contains gypsum. It is because of such a simple structure that it becomes possible to create various decorative elements. During installation, drywall is attached to metal profiles, this is done for structural strength. Lamps are also installed here, what exactly they will be, does not matter much. It is better to stop at small sizes so that you can evenly distribute them over desired area ceiling.

All drywall sheets can be divided into several types:

  • GKL. Standard sheets drywall. Most often used when decorating the ceiling of a living room or bedroom;
  • GKVL or GVLV. They are characterized as waterproof drywall sheets, while the second type is considered more durable. Of course, ceilings made of such material are perfect for rooms with increased level humidity, such as bathroom, swimming pool and even laundry;
  • GKLO or GKLVO. If the room is considered a fire hazard, then it is better to opt for the first option. However, in the case when there is a risk of damage not only from fire, but also from water, it is better to choose the second option.

Installing such a ceiling is a rather complicated and time-consuming process. When a professional team is working, it is recommended that all outsiders leave the room, as there will be a lot of noise and dust. Alone, such a ceiling cannot be mounted. One sheet of drywall weighs about 15 kg. It will be quite problematic to install it alone. In addition, all joints must be made perfectly so that subsequently cracks do not appear. Based on the foregoing, it is better to entrust the installation of a plasterboard ceiling to a professional team that will do everything efficiently and quickly.

Tiled ceilings

This option is more suitable for non-residential premises, such as offices or warehouses. Appearance here is more strict and concise. Straight lines emphasize formality and restraint. decorative elements rarely used in the design of such a ceiling, but the tiles themselves can be decorated in a variety of ways.

Most often, mineral fiber tiles with a thickness of about 2 cm are used. Despite the fact that in most cases square tiles of 60x60 cm are used, there are rectangular models of 60x120 cm. If possible, a ceiling design can be developed where both tiles will be used. This ceiling looks very impressive. The texture of the plates can be different types: standard smooth, decorative cellular or unusual perforated.

The most popular type of tiled ceiling is the Armstrong system. The highlight of this type is an open metal frame. Thus, the profile becomes a kind of decorative element. Thanks to this design, the plates are installed easily, and at the same time they can be removed at any time if necessary.

Such ceilings have a lot of advantages: reliability, durability, easy installation, long shelf life. The cassettes do not require special care and can be changed independently in case of damage or a change in the overall design. They are water-resistant and fire-resistant, so it will not be difficult to wash them in case of contamination. However, despite all the advantages, a significant drawback is the high price of the cassette ceiling.

Slatted ceilings

Due to water resistance, some types of this design can be used in the bathroom, sauna or swimming pool. Due to the elongated oblong pattern, the room visually becomes larger and more spacious. Slatted ceilings look very impressive in large rooms, for example, such as a train station, airport or subway.

Ceiling slats can be made of both metal and polyvinyl chloride. Aluminum prevents corrosion and can last a long time. Such slats pass air perfectly, thanks to
which can be used in office space. Since aluminum is quite light, this design does not require a heavy and dense frame, which significantly saves not only cash but also installation time.

Plastic rails are easy to install and fasten to the base of the frame profile. In addition, they are easy to replace or correct in case of minor damage. After repair, they can be installed back without much effort. Plastic lining will look great on the ceiling, not only in the bathroom, but also in the hallway and even the kitchen. Due to the water resistance of the product, you should not once again worry about excessive moisture, you can even wash the ceiling in case of contamination.

How to make a false ceiling yourself?

After the design of the suspended ceiling is chosen, you can proceed to the preparatory stage and carry out the calculation work. The cheapest, and also the most optimal, option would be to create a single-level rack ceiling on a metal frame.

Consider the process of installing a false ceiling in the bathroom. Plastic lining is best suited for these purposes, because it withstands high level moisture and not deformable.

Necessary tools and materials

  • PVC plastic panels;
  • Guides and starting metal profiles;
  • Plaster;
  • masking tape;
  • Dowel-nails;
  • Standard hangers. If the ceiling needs to be released a little lower, then it is better to use hangers with clamps;
  • Self-tapping screws with a press washer;
  • A wide selection of materials for the manufacture of suspended ceilings allows you to create and translate into reality the most daring ideas of designers. Such a ceiling will perfectly fit into any interior, while its installation can be done independently, without spending a lot of time and money.

It is often necessary to think about what kind of ceiling to make in it, because you want this part of the bathroom to be beautiful, practical and durable. The following building materials can be used for the ceiling:

  1. Plastic panels.
  2. Drywall.
  3. Clapboard.

Let's start with how to make a false ceiling in the bathroom from panels. There is nothing complicated here.

Why are we looking at panels first and not drywall? Of course, you can make a false ceiling from plasterboard. First you need to bring the material by truck, and then do the finishing - cover the seams and sheets with a mesh, apply and level the putty, paint. Of course, such a ceiling will be beautiful, but, in general, plastic panels look great too. Moreover, not everyone is able to do the installation of a plasterboard ceiling with their own hands, but it is not difficult to mount the panels. Next, we will also consider options for the ceiling and drywall.

Advantages of plastic panel ceiling

A little about the advantages of plastic on the ceiling. He is not afraid of moisture and water - and this is the main requirement that applies to the ceiling in rooms with high humidity. The same drywall for the ceiling must be purchased only if it is moisture resistant, and such a sheet will cost more than usual. Unlike it, plastic panels of any type do not deform from moisture. In case of dirt, it is enough to wipe the material with a wet cloth, but drywall will probably have to be repainted. Even if negligent neighbors make a flood from above, there will be absolutely nothing plastic.

advantage plastic panels for the bathroom is also the fact that they do not get moldy, do not need additional finishing and are easy to replace if needed. In addition, there is always a wide choice of colors, thanks to which the bathroom will look aesthetically pleasing. Such panels can close the ceiling with any irregularities and other shortcomings. In addition, it does not take up as much space in height as a suspended plasterboard ceiling, and at the same time, electrical wiring can be carried out above the panels or even pipes can be hidden.

For the manufacture of plastic panels, polyvinyl chloride is used - a generally safe substance for human health, which is also used for the production of disposable plates and other similar products.

Mounting the false ceiling frame

Before marking the frame and starting the installation of the ceiling, it is necessary to determine the distance at which the suspended ceiling will be from the floor slabs or the old ceiling. If fixtures are installed, then a height of about 100 mm is required, or even all 150 mm. When you have decided on the height, you can start marking on the walls to attach the frame profile.

If the ceiling is even (you can check this building level), then you can not make a hanging frame, but fix the wooden slats directly to the ceiling, and then nail the panels to them with brackets.

How is markup done? A mark is placed on the wall in one of the corners, for example, 15 cm down from the ceiling. Then similar marks are made on other walls (using a laser or water level). One solid line is drawn along them, which will be the level of the bottom of the metal frame.

As for the profile, two types of profile will be needed - CD and UD. The UD profile is required for wall mounting, while the CD profile is required as a cross profile. It is easy to count the number of profiles. The wall profile has a length of 3 m, which means that you need to calculate the perimeter of the bathroom and divide the resulting value by 3. The situation is similar with the longitudinal profile. It should be located every 50 cm. By counting the total number of axles along which it will be attached and their length, you can similarly find out the number of CD profiles.

We mount the wall profile using dowels, and the longitudinal one - using self-tapping screws for metal small size(the so-called "fleas"). In order to drill the wall for the dowels, you will need a hammer drill or a good impact drill with a Ø 6 mm drill bit. The step by which the wall profiles are fastened with self-tapping screws must be at least 40 cm.

When the wall profile is fixed, a longitudinal profile is mounted, connecting it to the wall profile and to each other with “fleas”. According to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling, you will need special suspensions made of knitting needles or strips, with which you can fix the profile so that they do not sag. Given the light weight of plastic panels, they will not need so much.

When the frame is completed, do not forget to conduct electrical wiring for lighting the bathroom. A copper cable with a cross section of 1.5 mm², laid in a corrugation, is suitable for it. Attach the cable to the ceiling, not the frame. At the place where the lamp (or lamps) will be located, it is necessary to draw conclusions 25–30 cm long from the frame for the convenience of further connecting the wires to the cartridge. For fixtures, you need to consider mounting.

Panel mounting

Now The final stage ceiling installation - fixing plastic panels in the bathroom. Work always starts from the edge. Briefly about the device panels. One side of it has a spike, and the other side has a groove into which the next panel is inserted with its spike.

The first panel is cut to length (or two panels are attached, one of which will be cut) and installed with a spike to the wall so that they are located across the frame profile. After that, it is fixed on this profile using small self-tapping screws with a washer, which are screwed into the spike and the bottom of the groove. After that, the next panel is inserted, but only the lower part of the groove is attached to it. According to this principle, the entire ceiling is mounted to the very end. The last panel is cut (if necessary) not only in length, but also in width, then it is fixed to the edge near the wall.

When all the panels are assembled, cornices are glued to the corners with the wall and ceiling, which will hide the seams between the plastic and the wall.

If the plastic panel is gaining in length, but at the same time its length is not enough for the entire ceiling, then it is necessary to supplement it with a segment of another strip. In order for the joint to be made correctly in this case, it is necessary to purchase a special mount, which has grooves on both sides so that the panel can freely enter them in width.

If it is necessary to cut the profile, this can be done with metal shears. The panel is best carefully cut with a hacksaw or a sharp construction knife.

The finished ceiling can be gently wiped with a damp cloth, after which you need to hang the lamps, fixing them on the ceiling. Having connected the wires to the cartridge, a light bulb is twisted into the lamp. We can say that this installation of the ceiling is completed.

A false ceiling made of plastic panels is quite easy to make, and it is durable - in the next ten years, you don’t have to worry about repairing the ceiling. In addition, by performing its installation, you can significantly save on repairs without losing the quality of the work performed.

In addition to panels, plasterboard sheets can be mounted on the ceiling in the bathroom. However, it should be noted that not all sheets will fit - in the bathroom you can use only moisture-resistant drywall, which would be able to withstand high humidity in the room.

A plasterboard ceiling is more difficult to install than a plastic panel ceiling. But its advantage is the excellent design and the ability to create a ceiling from several levels, if the height of the bathroom and its dimensions allow it. So, consider where the installation of the ceiling begins.

In a sense, the frame for a plasterboard ceiling is similar to the frame that is needed for plastic panels. Also, a guide profile is attached to the wall, longitudinal and transverse profiles are inserted into it, held on suspensions. But there are certain requirements for the step between the last profiles. So, the size of one sheet of drywall is usually 2.5 m in length and 1.2 in width. When creating a frame in the bathroom, these dimensions must be taken into account.

To install a plasterboard ceiling in the bathroom, some people prefer to purchase non-standard sheets or cut existing ones. In this case, the frame must be assembled, taking into account the dimensions of the resulting drywall sheets.

Sheets on the ceiling begin to be fixed from the edge, on one of the walls. Consequently, the two sides of the drywall along the length and width will be attached to the guide profile, tightly adjacent to the wall. The following profiles are arranged according to this scheme: the longitudinal profile, like the transverse one, should only go half way onto the sheet so that the next sheet can be fixed to its second half.

This means that the distance from the wall to the center of the profile at the junction of the sheets should be equal to the width of the sheet, that is, 1.2 m, or another value if the specified width has other dimensions. However, a distance of more than a meter without additional reinforcement is fraught with the fact that the sheet may begin to sag and even crack. Therefore, it is necessary to fix another longitudinal profile in the middle of the sheet, the center of which would extend 60 cm from the wall and at the same distance from the profile at the junction.

The situation is similar for length. The center of the profile, which will join the two sheets, should be in the middle, and between it and the wall it is necessary to place more transverse profiles - approximately every 60 cm (step). The joints of the longitudinal and transverse profiles are reinforced with suspensions. It is possible to strengthen not all joints, but through one - this will be enough so that the ceiling does not sag. According to this principle, the entire frame is recruited in the bathroom.

In some cases, if the bathtub is spacious and tall enough, homeowners may decide to have a multi-level plasterboard suspended ceiling in their bathroom. In this case, it is necessary to recruit the top row of the frame, and then the bottom one, while both levels will be connected by a profile in those places where the vertical pieces of drywall will be attached. Optimal Height level - 10 cm.

Before fixing drywall, you need to lay electrical wiring, after hiding it in the corrugation.

AT recent times lining made from various tree species, such as larch, cedar and other wood, has gained considerable popularity. In addition to the fact that wooden lining is durable and durable, and due to impregnation, it is not afraid of water. You can tell she looks good. With the help of lining, you can create the appearance that the ceiling in the bathroom is made of perfectly even boards. And if you use a false beam, you will get the impression that the ceiling is made of wooden beams.

See how to make a slatted aluminum ceiling in the bathroom:

A photo

Long years the ceiling was in the shadow of its more popular "brothers" - the walls and floor. His fate was like the fate of an ugly duckling - plastered, more or less leveled, painted, and you're done - serve and don't complain. Whether it's the walls - colored, elegant, textured, with decor. Or the floor - parquet, stone, patterned, decorated with carpets. I looked at the whole thing the ceiling and was sad: when will my turn come? Why do I protect everyone from the cold, water and neighborly noise, but no one will say “thank you” to me? And, finally, he was lucky: they remembered the white old man and came up with several “decorations” - know-how of designs, among which the most popular in our country is the hanging one. Dreaming of learning how to make a false ceiling? There is nothing easier - carefully read the material, and go ahead - pay tribute to your old man, and please yourself!

Introduction to finishes

Any business should begin with an understanding of the process, so let's start the installation courses with what this design is, for what purposes, besides beauty, it is being built, what suspended ceilings are made of.

A false ceiling is a new surface that is suspended from the base ceiling and takes over some of its functions. As in the proverb: one head is good, but two is better. For hanging, they always use a frame (made of metal or wood) and often hangers.

With the advent of new constructions, the apartments began to play in a new light.

If the beauty of the room is secondary for you, is it worth changing something? How else, get acquainted with what know-how is capable of?

  • hide irregularities and other serious surface imperfections;
  • hide communications (pipes, air conditioning systems, hoods, etc.);
  • realize the idea of ​​​​special lighting;
  • protect yourself from the noise of neighbors living above you;
  • make the room warmer;
  • serve as insurance against flooding;
  • speed up the repair process.

And this is not to mention the fact that you will be able to surprise your relatives and friends, and, possibly, yourself with the novelty.

If the house is cold, do not forget about a layer of insulation

Varieties of suspended structures

To understand how to make suspended ceilings, you need to decide which ones, in fact, do you want? “What, is there any choice here?” – you will be surprised. Imagine already - yes. If you think that a suspended ceiling is an attached drywall, then you are deeply mistaken. Now you can choose from many options.

So, according to the structural features of the frame and the types of material used, suspended ceilings are solid and modular.

You can play not only with materials and shapes, but also with lighting

solid

If everything is clear with a solid construction, this is exactly the option that you immediately thought of. Such a surface is able to solve all the problems described above, with the exception of moisture protection, unless you find a special waterproof drywall, and then in the case of a violent, unreliable family living above you, you should think three times before choosing this option for the bathroom. Meanwhile, between the drywall and the base, you can make an additional water protection device, and thus get out, as you can see, if you wish, all your ideas can be realized.

By the way, the drywall itself can be attached not only to one level, but to make such a “number of floors” as you wish. In addition, you are free to play with shapes and even make patterns. That's why solid construction still leads the first step in the hit parade of suspended ceilings.

Let's get acquainted with the types of suspended ceilings?

Modular

But with modular designs, as they say, "walk the soul." What is this surface? A system assembled from separate, differently shaped modules. The following subtypes can be attributed to this type of suspended coatings:


Mastery Lessons

Well, it's time to tell you how to make false ceilings yourself and what you need for this. Consider the most popular option - plasterboard suspended ceiling.

Everything starts with a plan. In this case, the action plan. So what jobs are waiting for you?

  1. Selection and purchase of tools and materials.
  2. Marking the base ceiling.
  3. Installation of the frame (suspended structure).
  4. Fastening and fitting drywall in the form of plates.

This is what some of the components of the system look like

Block 1: selection and purchase of tools and materials

From the tools, prepare (find, buy or borrow) the following:

  • screwdriver;
  • grinder or hacksaw for metal;
  • puncher or special drill;
  • a hammer;
  • water level;
  • metal scissors;
  • tracer (for marking).

Buy materials according to the following list (naturally, before purchasing, you will need to calculate the expense):

  • drywall sheets;
  • profile of two types (L- and U-shaped);
  • screws (for both drywall and profile);
  • suspensions;
  • crabs;
  • dowels for mounting suspensions to the base;
  • sickle;
  • putty

Hint diagram: what goes where

Block 2: markup

Now let's move on to how to make a false ceiling. It all starts with the search for the lowest corner. If you have already checked this point once, and everything is perfect for you, then choose any angle and measure from above the distance necessary to hide everything that you planned to hide from your eyes. Less than 5 cm indent is not recommended. Next, using a water level and a tracer, transfer this line to the walls. Then follows the markup under the guides. To do this, you need to outline parallel lines with an interval of 1.25 m.

Markup Fragment

Block 3: frame installation

First, L-shaped profiles are attached around the entire perimeter with dowels (step - 23-50 cm). Next comes the turn of the suspensions, which are mounted along the drawn lines with a step of 50 cm. Next, we make the so-called “lattice”. First, we fasten the profiles along the length, connecting them with suspensions using self-tapping screws, then along the width. Intersection points are fixed by crabs.

It's important to know! Check the frame for strength, otherwise the ceiling you have assembled will rattle or, which is good, will not withstand the load, especially if you are making a multi-level structure.

This is what the frame looks like multi-level ceiling

Block 4: fixing the drywall and fitting the boards

Let's take a look at 2 options.

  • Installation of a single-level ceiling

Fixing drywall sheets is one of the easiest steps. Apply the sheet so that it covers half of the profile, fix the surface with self-tapping screws, then install the next sheet end-to-end.

Installation of drywall sheets is best done together in order to avoid deformation of the material

  • Sheathing of a multi-level structure

With this coating option, you will have to sweat, but you will win in beauty. The algorithm of work is as follows: attach the sheet to the frame, mark the contours with a pencil. Move the sheet to flat surface and cut out desired shape, you may have to adjust the element several times to the required size. Fasten part of the sheet with self-tapping screws, and so element by element - like puzzles.

Only a couple of strokes left

Everything, you can level the surface with putty, not forgetting about the attachment points of the screws, and then, whatever you want, paint or wallpaper.

Video lesson: how to make a false ceiling


You didn’t think that making a false ceiling is so easy, right ?!

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 6 minutes

A plasterboard ceiling is the best solution for those who want to tidy up the ceiling surface on their own, but are not eager to mess with plaster or buy an expensive heat gun for a stretch PVC sheet. Let's find out how to make a false ceiling from plasterboard sheets and get acquainted with the instructions explaining in detail how to fix drywall to the ceiling correctly.

When should you choose drywall?

Suspended plasterboard ceilings the right choice, if:

  • the work needs to be done quickly and with a minimum of effort - installing a plasterboard ceiling is much easier for a beginner than plastering, besides, you do not have to wait for each layer of mortar to dry;
  • it is necessary to hide wires and communications;
  • you want to use spotlights;
  • it is required to make sound or heat insulation - it is convenient to hide any insulating material behind the drywall on the ceiling;
  • there is a need for a perfectly flat ceiling surface in the absence of skills in working with plaster.

If you are already seriously thinking about how to make a drywall ceiling, take into account some of its disadvantages:

  • Like any false ceiling, it will reduce the height of the room.
  • Plasterboard ceiling sheathing involves the mandatory use of tools such as a puncher, a screwdriver, as well as a laser or water level.
  • Cracks may appear at the joints of the GKL over time.
  • Aligning the ceiling with drywall cannot be done alone.

Work materials

Before we begin to figure out how to make a drywall ceiling, let's find out what needs to be prepared before starting installation. We will need:

  • thickness from 8.5 to 9 mm. If you plan to make a false ceiling in the kitchen or bathroom, then you need to choose a moisture-resistant material - GKLV.
  • Ceiling profiles (PP or CD) 60 X 27 mm.
  • Ceiling guides (PNP or UD) 28 X 27 mm.
  • Dowels and screws, anchors.
  • Special hangers.
  • Cross-shaped fasteners for connecting perpendicularly joined profiles - "crabs".
  • Sealing self-adhesive tape for a snug fit of the frame.

You can also make a suspended ceiling from GVL - which are durable and non-combustible, but in this case, reinforced profiles will be required, since this material has a fairly large weight.

Tools

How to sheathe the ceiling with drywall using the available tools? The minimum you need:

  • roulette;
  • laser level or hydraulic level;
  • pencil;
  • perforator;
  • screwdriver;
  • a hammer;
  • knife for cutting sheets;
  • metal scissors;
  • marking cord.

If we are talking about how to make a false ceiling from start to finish, you need to remember about the tools and materials for its processing and puttying, which include:

  • spatulas;
  • grinding mesh;
  • mesh grater;
  • serpyanka tape for joints;
  • putty;
  • primer.

Preparing for installation

Before you start leveling the ceiling with drywall, you must:

  1. Completely complete the work on leveling the walls in the room: in the places where the profile is attached, the surface must be absolutely flat.
  2. Make a design sketch for an accurate calculation of the amount of materials (profiles, sheets, self-tapping screws, fasteners). The scheme of the plasterboard ceiling frame with a calculated step between the elements of the crate will help to avoid a situation where the edge of the sheet does not match the profile, and it cannot be fixed.
  3. Eliminate base surface defects. Despite the fact that drywall ceilings will hide it, this step is necessary to prevent the old coating from shedding. Before attaching the profile to the ceiling, repair cracks, clean crumbling areas, apply a deep penetration primer.

Finishing the room is done after the suspended ceilings are installed.

markup

Installation of a plasterboard ceiling is unthinkable without preliminary marking. The goal is a perfectly flat horizontal line, perpendicular to the floor and running along the perimeter of the entire room. It will serve as a guideline for setting the start profile. To correctly markup, you must:

  • Decide on the height of the plasterboard ceiling. For construction with spotlights the surface will have to be lowered by at least 8 cm, if they are not used, a gap of 4–5 cm will suffice.
  • Find the lowest point of the base ceiling surface. To do this, you need to measure the height of the ceiling in all corners and in the center of the room. The smallest height is marked on one of the walls with a tape measure and a pencil, then the distance is laid off from it by which the plasterboard ceiling will be lowered.
  • The resulting height is transferred to each wall, the points are connected by a horizontal line using a chopping cord.

When marking the surface for a plasterboard ceiling, it is much more convenient to use a laser level.

For marking under the main profiles for a plasterboard ceiling, you need to consider 2 points:

  • The edge profiles should be at a distance of 20–25 cm from the walls.
  • Step between profiles - 40 cm.

Hangers can be placed at a distance of 50 cm from each other, extreme - 25 cm from the walls. To mark the anchor points, attach the hangers to the ceiling and mark 2 points for each.

Frame mounting technology

The installation of the frame begins with the installation of guide profiles:

  • The guide is applied with the lower edge to the line, marks for dowels are made through the holes in the profile.

If there are no holes on the edges of the profiles, you need to step back from its ends by 10 cm and make them yourself.

  • Holes are drilled with a perforator.
  • A sealing tape is glued to the profile, it is fixed with dowels on the wall.

The false ceiling is fastened with the help of suspensions, also pasted over with sealing tape, fixed with anchors.

The carrier bars are fixed on the hangers, the ends of which are inserted into the guides. After fixing the profiles on both sides on the hangers, their free ends are bent.

If the length of the profiles is not enough, you need to use special extensions designed to connect two strips.

If you are making a false ceiling in a bathroom or corridor, following these instructions will be enough. Suspended ceilings for the kitchen, living room or bedroom, that is, for larger areas, will require the installation of additional transverse profiles, to which the short sides of the GKL sheets will need to be attached. Perpendicularly joined profiles are fixed with the help of "crabs". The result should be a lattice frame.

Sheathing the frame with drywall

Before sheathing the ceiling, you need to take care of the communications. The wires are placed in a corrugated pipe, wiring is carried out for lighting fixtures.

The prepared sheets are applied to the frame in such a way that their edges are joined in the center of the profiles, and screwed with self-tapping screws:

Important points to consider when fixing drywall to the ceiling:

  • There should be a chamfer on the edge of the sheets at the joints, if not, you need to do it yourself with a knife or a special planer. The sheets should fit snugly enough to each other, the gap between them should be from 1 to 2 cm.
  • Since some of the drywall sheets will most likely need to be cut, when deciding how to sheathe the ceiling, it's best to start by securing entire sheets. When this part of the work is done, you can more accurately determine the size of the cut sheet.
  • A small gap of 0.5–1 cm must be left between the sheathing and the wall.

putty

After the suspended ceilings are installed, it remains only to finish them. First of all, it is performed, the same for all types of plasterboard structures:

  1. The joints are closed with reinforcing tape.
  2. Seams and points of entry of self-tapping screws are puttied.
  3. After the putty has dried, the seams are rubbed with a special mesh, the entire surface of the plasterboard ceiling is primed, and a finishing putty is applied to it in a thin layer.

After the putty has dried, it must be sanded. Then the plasterboard ceiling is primed again and painted or wallpapered.

Now you know how to make a false ceiling from plasterboard sheets. This process should not cause you any particular difficulties, if you strictly follow the instructions, everything will definitely work out.

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