How to sheathe a bath barrel with clapboard. Do-it-yourself bath: interior decoration

The quality of the steam and the microclimate in this room directly depend on the finish of the bath inside. Of all the materials offered by manufacturers, you can choose the best, which will not only provide a high degree aesthetics of walls and ceilings, but also enhance the healing effect of bath procedures.

How and the better to finish the bath inside

Setting up a bath is no easy task. In this building there are always several rooms, each of which performs its function. Those materials that are optimal for a dressing room and a rest room are not always suitable for finishing a steam room or a washing room. Therefore, the owner of the bath needs to know what are the criteria for choosing the design and cladding of each room.

The interior of the bath can be made of the following materials:

• lining;
• planed boards;
• salt panels;
• brick;
• porcelain stoneware;
• natural and artificial stone;
• plastic panels;
• moisture resistant GKL and GVL;
• ceramic tile.

The materials that can be fearlessly used for cladding walls and ceilings of any room are listed. The environmental friendliness and durability of these products have been proven by many years of practice. At right choice materials, finishing a bath can be hampered by only one thing: ignorance of how to properly lay, stick or mount them.

What lining to choose for a bath

There are 4 types of lining, differing in the profile of the boards:

1. Eurolining.
2. Standard (otherwise called "peasant woman").
3. Block house (imitation of logs).
4. American (imitation of timber).

• "Calm";
• "Soft Line";
• "Classic".

Finishing a bath with clapboard is a traditional, often used solution. It has become so popular for many reasons. Lining is a natural, and therefore environmentally friendly material, favorable for human and animal health. When choosing, it is extremely important to consider several points:

• type of wood;
• material grade;
• resistance to moisture;
• coefficient of thermal conductivity.

Rules for choosing the grade of lining

Manufacturers offer several options for the grade of boards:

• "A" - the first;
• "B" - the second;
• "C" - the third;
• "Extra" - the highest.

What is "highest" is not indicated in state standards. This indicator is not used anywhere in the world, except for Russia. Domestic manufacturers often give wood grade "A" for "Extra", and boards of grade "B" - for "A". This is what caused the appearance on the market of lining of the highest grade. Recommendations for choosing a grade are as follows:

• interior decoration baths can be made of boards of the second grade;
• for rooms with high humidity, the presence of rot and wane in the wood is unacceptable.

Rules for visual inspection of boards and assessment of their condition

The following must be taken into account:

1. Pay attention to the quality of the chips. Boards must be level and smooth surface. This directly affects the economic benefits of finishing work. If the front side of the lining is rough, the finish will be complicated by the increased consumption of antiseptic and paintwork materials.
2. Humidity of boards should not exceed 12-16% (GOST requirement). It is visually impossible to determine whether the material offered by the manufacturer meets this criterion. Therefore, it is necessary to request documents confirming compliance with GOST. If the wood is not dry enough, there is a high risk that it will lead in the first years of operation of the finished premises.
3. Pay attention to the depth and evenness of the groove. These indicators determine the quality of the installation. And it doesn’t matter how it will be done: with the help of kleimers, nails or staples. If the groove is shallow, there will be nothing for the fasteners to catch on.

An important characteristic of the boards is the width. Often on sale there are lamellas wider than standard ones (more than 88 mm) and managers assure that it is more profitable to buy such a lining. This is not true, because such a finish will be less durable and there is a high risk of curvature of wide boards under the influence of moisture.

Criteria for choosing a tree species

The decoration of the walls and ceilings of the bath can be made of the finest woods.

Stages of sheathing a bath with clapboard

Sheathing a bath with clapboard is no different from a similar process for finishing facades and premises for any other purpose. For error-free completion of the task, it is enough to follow our installation instructions.

How to fix the lining in the bath

The installation of lining in the bath begins with the choice of the method of fastening the boards and the preparation of the tools necessary to perform this work.

The following options are used:

1. Finishing by the method of hidden fastening of the lining. Use clamps. These are metal products that are inserted into the groove of the board with one side, and the second part protruding from the groove is attached to the racks of the crate. For this purpose, use: - nails (included in the set of kleimers) and a hammer or nail gun; - self-tapping screws with a flat head and a screwdriver; - galvanized metal staples and an electric construction stapler.
2. Finishing method open way lining fastenings. With this installation method, galvanized finishing nails are used, which are hammered directly into the lining boards from its front side. Against the background of the texture and knots of wood, fasteners are invisible. After performing paint and varnish work - barely distinguishable.
3. Stages of fastening the lining to the kleimers. With a tape measure, pencil and building level mark the location of the first lamella on the racks of the crate. Turn the board with the groove down and apply it to the crate, focusing on the marks made earlier. A kleimer is inserted into the groove of the lining and fastened to the crate rack in the chosen way: on a bracket, self-tapping screws or nails. Repeat the process at all points of intersection of the board with the crate.

Lathing under the lining in the bath

Fastening of lining is possible both directly on the wall and on the crate. In the first case, impeccable evenness of the base surface is required, which is rare. Therefore, clapboard trim is traditionally performed on the crate.

For its installation, well-dried wooden bars with a section of 30x40 mm, 40x40 mm, 40x50 mm, 50x50 mm are used. The parameters of the racks are selected depending on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall. If it is small, then smaller bars will do. Finishing large areas requires thick and durable lumber.

If necessary, battens can be laid between the racks thermal insulation materials: mineral wool boards, penofol, expanded polystyrene sheets. Most often, the first option is chosen, since the foam, under the influence of high temperatures, begins to release styrene, which is harmful to health.

In the bath, high-quality interior decoration is important. It is unacceptable to use materials that can reduce the usefulness of hygiene procedures.

The stages of the device of the crate for lining are as follows:

1. Calculation of the amount of lumber. In order to properly make the crate, it is necessary to draw up its drawing. It is important to maintain the recommended step between the racks: 45-60 cm. The thinner the selected lumber, the smaller the distance between the bars should be. The crate consists of horizontally laid upper and lower guides and vertical racks located between them. Make a drawing for each wall, indicate the dimensions of the room on it and calculate the required amount of lumber.
2. Wood preparation. The purchased lumber is brought into the room and left in it for 1-2 days. During this time, the wood will have time to "acclimatize", acquire the desired temperature and humidity. After that, each bar is covered with a layer of antiseptic from all sides and ends. This task can be done in two ways: – cover all surfaces with paint brush; - prepare a container of such length that you can pour an antiseptic into it and immerse the bar in it.
3. Leave the lumber to dry for the period recommended by the manufacturer of the antiseptic solution.
4. Wall markings. To perform marking work, you will need: - plumb line; - building bubble or hydraulic level; - roulette; - pencil; - building block.
5. Using the listed tools, marks are made on the walls in accordance with the drawing drawn up earlier. Thus, the location of all the bars of the crate is found.
6. Lathing installation. wooden blocks attach to any wall convenient way: using nails or self-tapping screws. The distance between fixation points should not exceed 40 cm.

Lamella fastening

There are several ways to decorate a bath with clapboard. The slats can only be laid horizontally or diagonally. It is also possible to combine these techniques. Thus, they create the design of the room, which is most pleasant and beneficial for the owner.

It should be noted that when installing boards diagonally, it is necessary to reduce the distance between the racks of the crate. This method of fastening the lamellas entails a greater consumption of materials than with the traditional horizontal laying of the lining. Wall decoration with a diagonal direction of the boards is complicated and more laborious.

How to sheathe the walls in the bath

The interior decoration of the bath can be done not only with clapboard. The list of suitable materials for this purpose is wide. A spectacular technique is finishing with salt panels and blocks. This is an expensive material, so it can be used for mounting partitions or panels.

Salt slabs are highly heat resistant, but are not recommended for installation in rooms with increased level air humidity. As a result, this finish is suitable for rest rooms and Finnish saunas with dry air. A cozy and comfortable atmosphere will be created by facing with salt plates in combination with their illumination, internal or external.

The panels are attached to the walls with a two-component adhesive based on caustic magnesite. If small blocks are purchased, they can be glued to an inexpensive one. Such a finish will be more economical, but no less durable and aesthetic. Salt panels can be attached to any surface. These facing blocks are used if the bath is built of brick, wood, concrete, plastered, sheathed with GVL or GKL.

It is impossible not to pay attention to the ceiling. It is sheathed with those materials that are in harmony with the walls. The bath cannot boast of high ceilings, because they are not needed in it. For this building, rapid heating of the premises is important, which is possible with low walls.

If the bath is built of timber or logs, the ceilings in the rooms can not be faced, but varnished or tinted. In this case, it is necessary to perform high-quality insulation from the attic.

If the bath is built of brick, foam or aerated concrete, the ceiling can be finished with the same facing materials as the walls. The methods of facing horizontal and vertical surfaces are the same. But, before attaching wooden lamellas or other material to the ceiling, you need to make sure that the bearing surface is strong.

ceiling lining

Finishing in the bath will be disharmonious if the walls and ceiling are sheathed with materials that are the same in appearance, but different in quality. This method is used only for the sake of economy. A high ceiling can hide differences in color or other surface features. But the bath is traditionally built with a height of no more than 280 cm.

In order to match the design of the room with the mood that hygienic and relaxation procedures cause, environmentally friendly and aesthetically attractive materials are used in the cladding. If the walls are sheathed with wooden lamellas, most often the ceiling is made similar. The installation rules are the same. A crate is also being built on the ceiling, having previously drawn up its drawing. Lamellas are attached to the bars in the same way as for wall cladding.

Rest room decoration

The bath is always perceived as a place of rest from everyday worries. Each room in it is designed for its own purposes. The name of the relaxation room speaks for itself: here they relax after water procedures. Therefore, it is important to create comfort and relaxation in it.

Washroom finish

Steam room finishing

The finishing of steam rooms with natural stone is effective and beneficial in terms of heat capacity. This material can be combined with others. So, one wall is allowed to be faced with stone, and all the rest with wood. Artificial materials are not used in the steam room. Natural stone heats up quickly, retains heat for a long time and gradually releases heat, which contributes to the creation of an optimal microclimate for water procedures.

With the right choice and installation of materials, the finishing of the bath will fully correspond to the purpose of each of its premises.

A simple and affordable way to create an interior from natural wood - this is to sheathe a bath inside with a clapboard. How to do this - this will be discussed in this article.

What to hammer: nails, screws or staples?

By itself, this is a plank with a certain profile, which necessarily has a thorn-groove locking connection. On the wall or it is attached with nails, screws or staples. The tool and material needed to clog the lining in the bath is as follows:

• nails, screws, staples;
• hammer, screwdriver, hardware gun;
• a mallet or a piece of lining for knocking a spike into a groove;
• building level.

What nails to take for lining in the bath? It is desirable that these are finishing nails 30-40 mm long, with an anti-corrosion coating. . With a coating, it is worth taking self-tapping screws (their length is the same, by the way). As for the length, you should proceed from the thickness of the board (if in the groove, then only the walls of the groove), plus you need to break through the bar to which the board is attached at least to the middle.

Staples should be the same size, although there are comrades who nail 14 mm staples through the clamp with a construction stapler, but this is rather an exception. To properly sheathe the bath with clapboard, it is better to use long staples and shoot them at an angle of 45 degrees(about).

Of course, it is tempting to ask the question, what's better from the above methods. There can be no single answer to it, because everything depends on the experience of a particular person. And if it doesn't exist, then easiest to do is shooting staples with a pneumatic gun. True, it is not cheap, and few people will agree to buy it for a one-time job. Other methods are a little more difficult to implement.

How to mount: with or without clamps?

Hydro and steam protection

Both usually take the form of a film. How steam protection differs from hydroprotection, if there is water here and there?

IMPORTANT! Vapor protection is made of materials that do not allow moisture to pass through at all. Such films are placed from the side of the premises in order to protect the insulation as much as possible from water vapor generated inside these premises. The waterproofing is permeable in one direction and is placed closer to the outer skin in order to remove vapors from the insulation and keep external moisture out of it.

Hydroprotection is perforated and membrane. Perforated with time becomes clogged with dust from the air, stops working. Membrane is quite expensive.

waterproofing membrane

As steam protection you can even use a simple plastic film, but this does not apply to the steam room, where such a film will melt.

What kind of foil is suitable for a bath under a lining

A variety of vapor barrier films is the usual aluminium foil or foiled materials.

Reflective foil vapor barrier film

It should be understood that in a hot steam room, foil under the lining will better without polymer additives because polyethylene or polypropylene cannot withstand high temperatures. Of course, the polymer base makes the foil much more tear resistant, but polymers are flammable. It happens that this is how they close penofol, and then he slowly melts from the heat.

Foil on kraft paper. For more information on using foil, see

Thickness suitable foil ranges from 50 to 300 microns (0.05, 0.1, 0.3 mm). Sold in rolls, the seller immediately indicates the number of square meters. Roll width is usually 1-1.2 m.

As an option, to make it less torn, we can recommend fiberglass reinforced foil.

crate

The frame is made from bar, whose thickness varies over a relatively wide range. The cross section can be square or rectangular.

IMPORTANT! It is better not to make the ventilation gap, which is formed due to the thickness of the crate, less than 3 cm - this is the space for air, which dries the lining and steam protection, there is no need to save on it.

So, the minimum thickness of the lathing laths - 30 mm, you can take the width 40-50 mm - to make it convenient to mount strips on it.

The insulation is inserted between the bars to insulate the wall

Wood bars can be any - even if it is coniferous, you won't see any resin leaks. By grade The choice depends on the budget, here everyone decides for himself.

Types of lining

As already mentioned, the lining is profiled with a lock connection, and there are a lot of variations of this profile.

Surprisingly, the most important thing is not the profile, but the wood and how well it was dried after preparation. We have already recommended linden as the least expanding and contracting rock.

Good lining with ventilation grooves on the reverse side, well-finished, but this applies more to eurolining. ! The ventilation of the bath is dedicated to a separate one.

If a popular mineral wool is taken as a heater, then you need:

1. Sheathe the walls with waterproofing.
2. Fix on the wall "holders" for mineral wool - slats, or rather even boards, between which it will be inserted. The distance between such boards should be equal to the width of the insulation minus a couple of centimeters. The width of the boards is equal to the thickness of the insulation (someone has 5 cm, someone has 10 or 20).
3. Insert the insulation and close it with a vapor barrier, fixing it on the boards.
4. Over the vapor barrier, the laths of the crate are stuffed in a direction perpendicular to the direction in which you intend.

Impregnation for the walls of baths and saunas can be found on sale, they are also suitable for the steam room, too, because they are either harmless linen or paraffin oil or mixture oils With wax. Thanks to such impregnations, the tree does not absorb water and dirt does not linger on it. But it needs to be refreshed regularly.

Lining possible as varnishes, so paints, but only outside the steam room. In the sink, you can use the same products that are suitable for bathrooms.

A log, concrete, frame or brick bath in any case requires hydro, heat and vapor barriers, as well as inner lining. Traditionally selected wooden lining. It has an aesthetic appearance, is safe for health, easy to install and operate. But the modern construction market offers other solutions.

Finishing the steam room

As a rule, with a sufficient budget, the steam room is sheathed with solid wood - aspen, linden, oak or cedar clapboard. To save money, you can use pine materials, but in this case it is necessary to check the boards for the absence of "tar pockets".

What to use besides lining? A cheaper option is sheathing with edged or unedged lime, aspen and birch boards. The tree must be prepared for installation: remove the bark, sand the surface and open it with a water-based varnish or special biocidal agents.

What is inexpensive to sheathe a bath inside? For a brick building, you can use a planed board, it is more affordable, does not require lengthy preparation for installation and provides greater thermal insulation. The thickness of the material is 1.5 times higher than the standard lining.

As a thermal insulation material, foil, parchment, jute, cotton wool, foamed foil polypropylene are used. The place near the stove is tiled.

The ceiling, in addition to lining, can be finished with tempered frosted glass. A backlight is mounted in it. The result is a rather non-standard, but modern steam room.

Heat-resistant tiles are laid on the floor. Clinker perfectly withstands high temperatures, has an anti-slip coating and is completely safe. But, if you want maximum comfort, it is better to choose a wooden flooring, alder, ash, birch or poplar are quite suitable.

If the bath was built from a log, the ceiling and walls inside do not require any sheathing. It is enough to treat the log house with a fire retardant, moisture-repellent and antimicrobial agent.

What material for sheathing should not be chosen is plastic, plywood, OSB, chipboard and any derivatives based on sawdust. Even with moisture-resistant coatings, when heated, the resins and synthetics that form the basis of the binder will begin to evaporate. And this is potentially dangerous for the body. The same applies to pine and spruce boards; they cannot be used in the steam room.

Bathroom upholstery

What material is suitable for cladding a bathroom or washing room - tile or porcelain stoneware. Unlike wood, ceramics will not require constant treatment with moisture-proof and bactericidal agents.

Glass-magnesite plates are no less popular. It is a durable, moisture resistant, non-flammable, non-toxic material that is not susceptible to the development of fungus or mold.

You can also use decorative moisture-resistant plaster, plastic panels, drywall and glass-magnesite for walls and ceilings, followed by the application of waterproof solutions. PVC, rack pebbles and fiberboard are also allowed. However, it is necessary to take care of the complete thermal insulation of the steam room.

On the floor, except for tiles, you can lay moisture resistant laminate or panels based on composite plastic. But the tile will be more practical and durable. Wooden shields are placed on top of it to avoid slipping. What interior to create in the washing room in the photo below.

Arrangement of the rest room

Here the main thing is not practicality, but comfort, relaxing atmosphere, ergonomic design. The most affordable way is to sheathe the room with pine boards. They do not rot, dry quickly, have beautiful view. According to the durability of the material, it is better to choose boards from Scandinavian pine. A pleasant light pink shade will eventually be covered with an original patina and will give the room even more comfort.

Spruce lining can also be attributed to inexpensive and high-quality finishing materials. Thanks to the Swedish Finnish technology hot air treatment, the boards acquire the necessary strength and moisture resistance. There is less resin in spruce than in pine, it is more fragrant, and small knots (which are inevitable) easily turn into the individuality of the interior.

Of the budget materials for the relaxation room, laminated, polyvinyl chloride MDF panels, quartz vinyl tiles, fiberglass wallpaper, decorative plaster, tiles with a stone, brick or wood pattern are also suitable. In general, everything will depend on the imagination of the owners and the style in which it is supposed to decorate the room.

There are also compositions (two-component paints) that completely imitate wood on any surface (mineral, old wood). A brick or concrete-block bath inside is trimmed with OSB or GKL panels, primed and puttied. Then paint is applied.

Since there is no increased temperature exposure and humidity in the relaxation room, linoleum flooring, tiles, edged boards or chipboard can be used for floors, followed by varnishing.

It is cheaper to stick fiberglass wallpaper on the ceiling or simply cover it with panels for painting.

But, if you still want to make a bathhouse not only a place of rest, but also recovery, the use of wood cannot be avoided. Simply selected varieties of inexpensive wood: birch, alder, poplar, aspen, pine. And for areas with increased workload, you can use oak, cedar and linden.

If the bath will be in operation all-season, it is better to install warm floors in the rest room, and it is good to insulate the walls before sheathing.

How inexpensive to sheathe a bath inside - practical recommendations

Interior decoration of the bath - what is used besides lining?

Bath buildings are built from logs, concrete and cinder blocks, bricks and other building materials. The lining of the interior with clapboard remains unchanged. In this article we will tell you what other finishing and decorative products can be used in the bath.

How to sheathe bath buildings besides lining?

The choice of finish depends on the purpose of the room. Inside the building, in addition to the steam room, there is a rest room, an entrance hall (dressing room), a bathroom or a washing room. If desired, a terrace, a residential attic or several square meters for a small pool are laid in the project.

Lining is a universal material, with proper processing it can sheathe all walls and ceilings, but it will turn out too monotonous. Therefore, a heterogeneous interior decoration of the bath is chosen.

Already from the name it is clear that 100% humidity and high temperature are periodically maintained in this room. We need a finishing material that can withstand such changes, plus, besides, it does not emit substances harmful to humans during heating: formaldehyde, ammonia, phenol and others.

• According to the specified parameters, only solid wood is suitable, so the owners always try to sheathe the bath inside with clapboard made of linden, aspen, cedar, abasha (African oak). Often planed larch or pine products are used, but slow-growing varieties should be chosen, since so-called resin pockets do not form in them. Accordingly, the resin will not constantly stand out on the surface.
• The bath, in addition to lining, can be finished with more budget options - edged or unedged boards from various types of wood - linden, cedar, alder, aspen. Only untreated wood will need to be pre-prepared for installation - remove the bark and sapwood, sand and cover with wood-protective water-based varnishes or impregnations with a biocidal effect.
• Wall cladding inside a brick bath with a planed board gives a much better heat-intensive effect, since the thickness of the molded products exceeds the section of the lining by 1.5-3 times.
• Do not try to sheathe the steam room and other rooms with sawdust sheets: plywood, chipboard, OSB and other analogues, even moisture resistant ones. In the process of heating, thermosetting resins, on which sawdust is mixed, begin to emit toxic fumes. The result is a poisoning of the body instead of recovery.
• On the ceiling, in addition to lining or edged boards, designers offer a non-standard option - tempered frosted glass, under which lighting is mounted. The bath will turn out to be very unusual, but modern.
• The floor can be sheathed with clinker or heat-resistant ceramic floor tiles with a special anti-slip coating. It is hygienic and will withstand high temperatures perfectly.
• And the last thing: if the bath is made of rounded or profiled logs, then the finishing technology inside the building does not require sheathing the ceiling and walls with anything. It is enough to treat all surfaces with water-based or oil-wax based flame retardants with a moisture-resistant effect.

• Bath without washing is unthinkable. Invariably the best material for the bathroom and toilet are ceramics: tiles, mosaics, porcelain stoneware. It is convenient and inexpensive, since the clapboard must not only be sheathed, but also take care of its safety. That is, constantly treat the lining with protective agents with a moisture-resistant and biocidal effect. Tiles don't need it.
• The walls and ceiling are finished with decorative waterproof plaster, plastic panels or drywall or glass magnesite for painting with waterproof compounds, but only if the steam room is thermally insulated according to all the rules.
• But for the floor in the bathroom, the choice of products is more extensive. Traditionally, floor tiles or porcelain stoneware are used, but you can sheathe a small room with modern waterproof laminate from composite plastic (Duma Floor, Aqua-Step) or special moisture-resistant floor panels, which are offered by the most famous manufacturers of laminate flooring - Egger, Quick Step, Alloc and others.

• By definition, it is intended for changing clothes and precedes the entrance to the steam room. To set the mood in the appropriate way, they also try to sheathe this kind of vestibule with clapboard, but here you should not be limited to finishing options.
• A multifunctional bath is an excellent field for the application of fantasy in the field of design. Walls can be sheathed with decorative clinker or ceramic tiles imitating stone or brick, wallpaper, including fiberglass, painted in any color, applied decorative plaster, sheathed with plastic or veneered strips.
• The floor in the intermediate room requires a more or less moisture-resistant material - PVC linoleum or natural marmoleum, vinyl or ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware, edged boards, and even plywood or chipboard for varnish.
• The ceiling inside the dressing room, in addition to lining, can be paneled or simply painted. Will look good ceiling wallpaper on a non-woven or fiberglass basis.

4. Room for rest.

• The bath is good because, in addition to everything else, it almost always has a room for relaxation. To create a special mood, use laminate and MDF or PVC panels with wood decor, vinyl or quartz-vinyl tiles, wallpaper with the appropriate pattern.
• Some paint manufacturers offer special mixtures that allow you to imitate wood on any mineral or old wood surfaces. For example, in the Dulux series there is a two-component paint Trade BrushWood. A bathhouse made of bricks or concrete blocks is first lined with LSU, GKL, OSB sheets, then a composition is applied over the puttied and primed plane, which, after drying, creates a wood texture that is visually almost indistinguishable from natural.

Lining - for and against

Summing up the foregoing, it is worth noting that a bath cannot do without lining. This is the best finishing material, as it has a unique set of positive properties:

• Low thermal conductivity and high heat capacity.
• Resistant to changes in temperature and humidity.
• Breakage resistance.
• Optimum noise reduction ratio.
• Pleasant, healing scent.
• Ease of installation.

Of the minuses, it is worth noting the susceptibility of the lining to rotting and woodworms, but the problem is solvable - it is enough to treat the surface with special protective compounds for baths and saunas in order to forget about problems with wood for 3-5 years.

How to sheathe a bath inside, except for lining in the steam room, bathroom, dressing room and rest room

What is better to sheathe inside the bath?

• What should be considered when choosing a lining for a bath?
• Wooden cladding for a bath
• What else can sheathe the bath from the inside?

How to sheathe a bath inside and how much is it necessary? The question that worries the owners of these premises can have several answers. So, if the bath building is built of natural logs, the walls inside can not be sheathed, except for the elegance of using lining.

After the construction of the bath is completed, you should think about arranging it from the inside. For sheathing, a variety of materials are used, which are selected depending on the material of the bath itself.

The walls of brick or stone, gas or foam concrete buildings must be sheathed. Firstly, this is the only way to achieve maximum insulation of the room. Secondly, bare walls look unaesthetic.

You can sheathe the walls of a bath or sauna with different materials:

• clapboard made of wood different breeds or block house;
• wooden boards;
• glass-magnesium sheets.

You can make a choice that matches your tastes and financial capabilities by familiarizing yourself with the requirements for lining the bath from the inside and the characteristics of different materials.

What should be considered when choosing a lining for a bath?

In steam rooms, in no case should fiberboard and chipboard be used, since they emit toxic substances when heated.

Before proceeding with the choice of sheathing, you need to consider that wood is the most suitable material for a bath. However, in the steam room, dressing room, rest room, you can and should use its different breeds.

For rooms with the least low humidity and stable temperature (dressing rooms, rest rooms), pine can be used. This inexpensive wood does not crack, is characterized by low thermal conductivity and beautiful pattern. Phytoncides, which pine wood has been emitting for many years, are very beneficial to health. Pine wood impregnated with resin is not afraid of fungi, dampness, mold. However, it is completely unsuitable for steam rooms or sauna interiors: when heated, pine begins to release resin. Using the steam room becomes inconvenient. And the heavy aroma of pine needles may not facilitate, but make it difficult to breathe.

For cladding rooms with very high humidity and temperature, alder, linden, abachi, aspen, poplar or larch are suitable. First, even at temperatures above 100°C, these rocks do not heat up very much. Secondly, such wood dries quickly, is not afraid of mold, fungus. It does not emit resinous substances.

Important: in the bath (especially in steam rooms) do not use materials obtained by chemical means. Fiberboard and chipboard, linoleum, laminate and similar materials release very toxic substances when heated: poisoning can occur. And they are also very flammable. The only exception is magnelite, because it is produced without the use of chemical resins and is environmentally friendly.

Wooden cladding for a bath

It is clear that the best cladding for a bath is wood or materials made from it. But what is the best way to sheathe a bath? Ordinary boards? Block house? Wooden lining? Consider the features of all these materials.

Lining for finishing the bath from the inside is an excellent option. It is inexpensive and fairly easy to install.

1. Regular boards. Plank upholstery is attached to the crate, always at a right angle. But ordinary boards are rarely used. Untreated with antifungal compounds, they can quickly rot. A ready-to-use board is relatively expensive, but it looks worse than, for example, lining or block house. Planing the boards yourself and treating them with special impregnations is long and costly. Aligning walls with them is not easy. In addition, the boards may contain a certain number of knots, which negatively affects both the operation of the sheathing and its appearance. That's why ordinary boards often prefer lining or block house.
2. The advantages of lining are undeniable. It is she who is most often chosen for interior wall cladding in different bath rooms. Here are its main advantages:
   • since lining and eurolining are made from different types of trees, you can always choose exactly the type of wood that you like the most;
   • even amateurs do not have a question about how to sheathe a bath from the inside with a clapboard: convenient “thorn-groove” locks allow both a novice master and an experienced professional to cope with facing work;
   • lining from lining looks very aesthetically pleasing, attracting visitors with a unique wood pattern, panels allow you to visually align any wall;
   • the technology of laying planks requires that tiny gaps remain between them, they improve air circulation in the bath, help the walls "breathe", and prevent condensation.
3. A great alternative to lining is a block house. Outwardly similar to a natural log, this material is many times superior in strength and ease of use, does not dry out, does not crack, does not warp. How to sheathe a bath with a block house? Just like a normal wagon. First you have to build a crate (frame), and then with the help of nails, staples or kleimers, fix the block house. Be sure to be at a right angle to the crate.

When choosing a lining or block house for a steam room and other "hot" rooms, you can not choose conifers (except for larch).

What else can sheathe the bath from the inside?

Magnelite tolerates high temperatures, high humidity and is easy to install.

Sometimes the inside of the bath is sheathed with magnelite. This is acceptable, but far from the most the best option internal lining. It is made from magnesium, fine shavings, binder and fiberglass mesh. It is believed that even at high temperatures, magnelite does not emit harmful substances into the air. It has other features that make its operation convenient and safe:

• calmly tolerates temperature changes, does not burn;
• easily tolerates any humidity, while it is not saturated with moisture, does not change shape, does not rot or mold;
• easy to assemble, does not require complex or special tools.

Magnelite is an excellent material for covering any bath rooms. However, it is preferable to sheathe a steam room with wood, although each owner independently decides how to sheathe a steam room or sauna inside.

How to sheathe a bath inside: the choice of materials

We sheathe the bath with a wooden clapboard from the inside

In construction, it is very important that the material is as natural as possible. The most environmentally friendly of all is wood.. Wood products have a beautiful appearance and have thermal insulation properties. In addition to supporting and enclosing structures, wood is also used as a finishing material. Very often, the lining of the bath inside the clapboard is performed. Due to its qualities, wood paneling has found wide application in construction.

Types of lining and classification

Lining is divided by type of wood:

• Pine. The most common wood for lining. It has a beautiful appearance and low cost. Over time, the pine product begins to darken.
• Spruce. Northern spruce is used to make lining. It is more durable and has a beautiful appearance. Like pine, it darkens with time.
• Canadian cedar used for bath decoration. It is not cheap, but it has excellent technical specifications and beautiful appearance.

• Oak. Beautiful and durable material, easy to process, expensive.
• Aspen. Beautiful light color. Has thermal insulation properties. Good for a bath.
• Linden. It is very well suited for finishing a bath, because the material does not heat up much and gives off a pleasant aroma.
• Alder. In a room with a high temperature, the material does not heat up. Also, it almost does not dry out and does not warp.
• Abash. African oak has high strength and softness of the material. Such wood does not dry out, does not warp and does not heat up. Has a beautiful appearance. Abash cost is quite high.

Most often, the inner lining of the bath clapboard is made of hardwood. In the bath, high temperature and under its influence coniferous wood releases resins. Hardwoods have practically no resin compounds, so resin is not emitted.

Of great importance is the type of wood from which the lining is made. There are 4 main varieties:

• "Extra"- a product made of wood of the highest grade without a core and a flaw.

• "BUT"- one live knot, two resin pockets and two non-through cracks per one and a half meters long product is allowed.
• "AT"- the presence of four knots (up to 2 cm) is not prohibited, two of them must be captive. Two resin pockets are also possible, the product is one and a half meters long.
• "FROM"- lining referred to this class allows two captive knots with a diameter of 2.5 cm, non-through cracks no more than 5% long, two resin pockets up to 5 cm long and up to 5 mm wide, mechanical damage up to 6% in diameter, contrast spot up to 15 cm in diameter , as well as other spots and stripes with a total complexity of up to 5% of the entire surface of the product.

Pros and cons of lining

• Natural and environmentally friendly material that does not emit harmful substances.
• Beautiful appearance. Depending on the type of wood, the lining has different shades and textures.
• Resistance to mechanical damage.
• A comfortable microclimate is created in the room.
• Ease of installation.

• High material cost.
• The need for constant care for wood.

Methods for attaching the lining to the wall

Listed below are the 5 main ways of attaching the lining to the wall.

A clamp is inserted into the lining, which is attached to the guide rail with a nail, screw or self-tapping screw. A rail is inserted into the groove and each subsequent rail is fastened in the same way. They must be fastened tightly enough so that there are no gaps. If the last row of lining does not fit entirely, and a large gap remains, then the top row must be cut to size and fixed along the guides.

First, the panel is marked in places where nails will be driven in. Then, at an angle of 45 degrees, the nails are baited into the edge with the groove. The panel is applied to the wall and then nails can be driven in. After installation, the caps are recessed so that the next lining panel can easily fit into the groove. After that, the next panel is mounted in a similar way.

This installation method cannot be used for thin lining, because it will break off.

Over time under the influence high temperature the tree may dry out a little, and the locations of the plugs will appear. To prevent this trouble, special compounds must be applied over the plugs.

The technology of performing work on the lining of the bath

1. Preparatory work. All internal communications must be laid. Finishing material should already be purchased, unpacked and laid out in a drying room. Also, you need to have all essential tool, for high-quality and fast work, you will need:

• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• jigsaw;
• construction stapler;
• level;
• plumb;
• paint cord;
• square;
• a hammer;
• suspensions;
• fasteners (nails, screws, self-tapping screws, staples, clamps).

Bath cladding requires significant funds for the purchase of material and its device. There is an opportunity to reduce the cost of material. There is no high temperature and high humidity in the dressing room. Therefore, he does not require special conditions finishes. In the dressing room, you can make coniferous wood paneling. The floor does not have to be made of wood, but it can be made of ceramic tiles.

In the steam room itself, it is best to cover the walls of the ceiling and floor with clapboard hardwood. In addition, all lava beds and other supporting structures must also be made of such material. This is due to the fact that hardwoods do not emit resins and do not heat up under the influence of high temperature, which ensures a comfortable stay in the bath.

Sheathing a bath inside a clapboard: types of pros and cons technology

It will be possible to get the maximum benefit from a modern bath only if right technology its construction. An important role is also given to the interior decoration of the steam room and other rooms. This will provide excellent thermal insulation and create the right atmosphere in every room.

The bath can be finished inside the clapboard with your own hands or with the help of involved specialists. It is important during work to take into account certain nuances related to the characteristics of the material and the methods of its installation.

Actual material

In the old days, the bath was made of thick logs, which had to be heated for 3-4 hours. They gained heat and during the procedure kept a comfortable temperature for a long time. However, with intensive use, the tree quickly fell into disrepair under the influence of high-temperature drops.

Now more advanced technologies are being used, when the steam room is subjected to excellent thermal insulation in several layers. modern materials. At the same time, for the inner layer, the lining of the steam room bath is used. Even its slight thickness is enough to provide the desired healing effect.

In the process of finishing the lining of the bath from the inside, wood of certain varieties is used. The following varieties are common:

This wood is one of the most expensive, but it has excellent physical characteristics. Thanks to it, the air is filled with a light pleasant aroma, which provides a therapeutic and prophylactic effect. Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the bath with cedar lining, unlike the use of other coniferous wood, does not create resinous drops on the surface of the decor when the steam room is heated. Also, due to its structure, cedar is not subjected to significant overheating, which minimizes the possibility of burns.

Very often, deciduous trees are used for interior decoration of the bath with clapboard. They have a lot of advantages over coniferous varieties. Linden boards withstand the effects of water and steam without changing in color, structure and other characteristics. Smooth rows are easily laid on walls, floors, ceilings. Benches in the steam room are often made from linden, and the door from it will not swell or spin under the influence of various factors.

It also has high resistance to moisture, while its cost is lower than linden. The material needs to maintain stable parameters during drying in order to give it the right characteristics. The high density of the structure makes it possible to create thermoconstant conditions inside the steam room for a long time.

The most budget options for finishing the bath with clapboard (various photos are on the site) involve the use of pine wood. However, it is not recommended to stuff it directly into the steam room, since when the temperature rises, copious excretion overly fragrant wood resins that can cause burns. It is especially important not to use material for finishing the ceiling in the bath with this clapboard or in the steam room. After all, tarry condensate will drip from above.

If for a steam room a pine lining, in principle, cannot be used, then for a dressing room - just right. In this room, the temperature does not change critically, which will ensure the safety of the geometry of the product and its long service life. For washing, pine is also not the best solution. In general, if this separate room with barrels or other containers of water, it is better to use ceramic tiles for decoration. But it is recommended to choose non-slip material. on which it will be impossible to fall and injure yourself.

When buying blanks for finishing a bath with a clapboard, it is necessary to check the certificates of conformity so as not to fall for a fake. This is especially true for expensive wood species.

Why lining, not tiles

All surfaces in and out of the steam room are essential. Often tiles are laid on the floor there, as they consider this coating to be more practical. However, unlike wooden surface it has its drawbacks:

• with tiles, a more slippery floor is obtained that can provoke a fall and injury;
• the thermal conductivity of tiles is higher, which makes the ceramic surface colder than wood.

It will be possible to solve the issue by installing wooden flooring over the tiled floor. They will keep the slope to the drain area. It is advisable to select a tree with a thickness of about 25-30 mm.

Decor and insulation at the same time

It is especially important to carry out high-quality thermal insulation before sheathing. To do this, use a layer of mineral wool, placing it between the stuffed rails in the steam room, and then make hydro and thermal insulation. A wooden layer is stuffed over the foil material. This is done in two ways.

• vertically. It is generally accepted that such wall decoration in a steam bath with clapboard provides uneven heating to the material. This reduces the performance of the material, which reduces its service life. This is especially important for rooms with high humidity. In the case of operating a bath in sauna mode, such an effect is decisive, therefore it can be used. It will be possible to increase microcirculation if you drill several holes in the wooden sheathing to the heat-insulating layer.

• Horizontally. For the transverse arrangement of the bath finish inside the clapboard, deformations from temperature effects are less noticeable. This method allows you to visually expand the room. Right-to-left arrangement provides much more efficient air circulation. It is believed that this format will complicate the work of rodents. The work will also go faster.

With a horizontal arrangement, the groove is usually directed downward.

Ceiling decoration

In order to ensure a harmonious design, the ceiling of the bath is also finished with a clapboard with your own hands. A single ensemble can be diversified with individual color accents.

Before upholstering the ceiling with a clapboard, it is necessary to decorate the surface with a vapor barrier material (further on, provided that it is already in the floor slabs. The vapor barrier is needed in order to absorb the condensate that forms during a significant temperature difference and high humidity in the room. If you do not provide for such layer, over time, a pathogenic environment will develop on the ceiling, as a result of which the ceiling will have to be completely changed.

Do not forget about the provision of protected light sources. They can be placed on the walls or under the ceiling. Often sealed fixtures are placed near the vent.

Arrangement of a washing

Finishing the washing in the bath with clapboard made of various types of wood is not welcome. This is due to the fact that the material, with poor ventilation, quickly rots, losing its presentable appearance. Actual solution is PVC installation lining on the walls of the shower room. It is a more practical solution in this situation.

Finishing the floor of the bath inside the clapboard - photo examples

Finishing the bath inside with a clapboard with your own hands: photo, video step by step instructions

Material selection

For sheathing residential premises very often use a dense and strong enough coniferous lining. Due to the high content of natural resins, which are antiseptics, it is little susceptible to decay and can last for a long time. However, it is not suitable for a wet steam room. When heated in the presence a large number moisture, such material will have a sharp resinous odor. In addition, a wagon made of needles heats up quite strongly, and when you touch the walls made of such material, you can even get burned.

Clapboard made of linden and aspen

Eurolining with "groove-comb" system and slots for ventilation

Material Quantity Calculation

So that the board does not have to be cut, it is better to take the lining according to the height of the ceiling, for example, 2.5 m. In this case to calculate the required quantity it will be enough to measure the length of the wall, and then divide it by the width of the board. Details of the lining should be clarified with the seller. Its maximum width 15 cm excluding grooves.

Preparatory work

1. In order for the boards to fit snugly against each other, the shalevka should be dried. But even a perfectly dried board should lie at least a day indoors so that the material can adapt.

Processing lining with a protective compound

Processing lining with sandpaper

The main stages of clapboard sheathing

1. Before sheathing concrete or brick walls they are first attached to a wooden or metal crate with an indent of 0.5 m. With a horizontal arrangement of the lining, it is mounted vertically, with a vertical arrangement - across the walls. Shalevka on wooden walls can be fixed without crates, however, in this case, sufficient ventilation will not be provided, which can lead to its rapid decay.

Wooden and metal battens

Dowels for lining

6. When the board is vertical, to install the first fastener, step back from the wall by a distance equal to the width of the panel.

Staples for lining

Level alignment

How to nail a lining with nails?

When using boards without grooves and spikes, the lining can be nailed to the crate with ordinary nails or screwed with self-tapping screws. Nails in this case are used finishing(with a small hat).

How to sheathe a bath inside with a clapboard with your own hands?

Regardless of what material the bath is built from, wood is traditionally preferred for its interior decoration. But before you sheathe the bath inside with a clapboard, you will need to preparations, the main of which is insulation. You will also have to solve several purely technical issues: choose the type of material and installation method, calculate its required amount.

Lining - an ideal material for decorating the walls of the bath

Probably everyone knows the history of the appearance of lining, which was originally used for lining railway cars. But, this type of lining, due to the peculiar lock connection found wide application as finishing material houses.

But the most popular lining in the interior of the bath has become due to the ability to provide a snug fit, without gaps, edged boards to each other, as well as natural origin.

In some cases, the bath can be used and plastic lining, but only in the washing room or in the recreation area, locker room. A tree is suitable for a steam room, and only a tree.

Plastic does not withstand exposure to high temperatures, can serve as a source of harmful fumes, and in addition, is a fire hazardous material.

Wood, on the contrary, is considered an ideal material that additionally has a healing effect due to resins, which, when heated, release aromatic components that have a beneficial effect on human health.

There are two types of lining on the modern market: ordinary and euro standard. The first has a characteristic rough, fleecy surface, and the second has an absolutely smooth front side.

Eurolining has another difference from the usual one, namely, the presence of ventilation ducts. They have the form of recesses located on the reverse side, due to which ventilation processes occur that prevent the formation of condensate, and at the same time serve to compensate for the stress of the material.

Types of lining for interior decoration of the bath

To choose a lining for a bath or sauna, you should decide on your preferences for its external shape and profile, as well as the type of wood. In addition, depending on the possibilities of the "bath" budget, then the variety that determines its quality.

According to the variety of types of profiles, the lining is very diverse, but before making the final choice, it should be noted that the method of installation will also depend on this. Therefore, if you are finishing the bath inside with a clapboard with your own hands, then you should think about this in advance.

So, the lining profile happens:

As a rule, the profile depends on which machine was used to produce the lining, although on large industrial machines it is possible to produce different types of material.

And in the event that the lining is planned to be used not only for lining the bath, but also for the premises in the house, you can either purchase special equipment or make it yourself for the manufacture of wood products, the cost of which is much lower than the finished product.

When choosing a lining, you should also pay attention to the marking indicating the grade of the material.

• Sort ( Class) Extra ( Premium) or 0 has a perfectly smooth surface, and cracks or knots are completely excluded. For the price - this is the most expensive material.
• Grade 1 or A - allows the presence of no more than one knot per 1 running meter of the product and small non-through cracks, not more than 9 cm. In addition, the presence of resin pockets is allowed, but not more than 2 units per 1 running meter. Although the surface is smooth, there may be a slight roughness
• Grade 2 or B also has through cracks, 15-25 cm long, but not more than 1 mm wide. The number of knots per 1 running meter has been increased to two, and in addition, the presence of wormholes and even rot is allowed ( but not more than 10%). In the bath, wall cladding with clapboard of this type can be used in all rooms, except for the steam room, since it is mainly subjected to the staining process, which is unacceptable for rooms with high humidity and temperature.
• Grade C or 3 - characterized by the presence of a large number of various defects and is not used for interior decoration of the bath and has mainly technical or auxiliary use, for example, for rough work on various objects.

The choice of wood for lining

For finishing the bath, both material made from coniferous and hardwood can be used.

If the shower or wash area is also lined wooden material, then it is best suited for this larch lining, the wood of which is famous for its high resistance to high humidity.

It accumulates heat well in the steam room, but is not capable of causing a burn on the body upon contact with it. Thanks to this feature and amazing healing qualities, this sauna lining is also a very attractive finishing option.

Oak is another hardwood that is also revered by many developers. Known for its high strength characteristics and beautiful pattern. It is a source of phytoncides with a bright antiseptic effect.

Aspen is one of the most "bath" types of wood. For a long time, it was this tree that was the main supplier of material for the construction and decoration of the bath.

Just like linden, it has a high storage capacity, but low thermal conductivity, which prevents burns from touching it.

Ash lining differs in unusual beauty of drawing, well maintains extremely high temperatures and high humidity. In terms of strength, ash wood is only slightly inferior to oak, but in terms of ease of processing, it is much superior.

Alder - like oak, is a storehouse of tannins, which makes the choice of lining from it for finishing a bath right decision. It has a pronounced anti-inflammatory and hemostatic effect.

But due to the presence of a large amount of resins, it is not recommended for a steam room, although in all other rooms it is optimal choice both aesthetically and performance characteristics uh, and for the price.

Spruce lining is much less common on the market, although it also has a beautiful wood that is easy to work with. It surpasses pine in the number of resins, so the recommendations for its use are the same.

If there is a desire to turn your bath into a truly beautiful object in which not only the body and soul, but also the eyes rest, then choose lining from cedar belonging to the elite breeds. It has a pleasant smell, beautiful characteristic pattern and color.

The choice of material for finishing the bath is quite extensive, but in order to determine which lining for the steam room is better, you should start from your own aesthetic preferences, performance characteristics and properties, as well as cost.

How to fix the lining to the wall of the bath?

The lining should be mounted on a pre-prepared frame made of wooden beam in three ways:

1. horizontal;
2. vertical;
3. diagonal.

Depending on how the lining will be installed, a crate is installed, which should be perpendicular to the direction of the pattern. Each method has its own advantages.

For example, when vertical and diagonal it is possible to avoid the accumulation of moisture in the seams, and horizontal attractive in that it allows, if necessary, to easily replace darkened or rotten elements without disassembling the entire wall.

Fastening lining: methods and choice of materials

Only galvanized nails or clamps should be used for fastening the sheathing. This will avoid the process of metal corrosion and the appearance of characteristic smudges on the lining surface.

Most often, clapboard sheathing is performed on the crate in the following ways:

In cases where there is a risk of shrinkage of the structure, a sliding crate is arranged for the lining, which involves the use of additional guides. But it should be borne in mind that this option is only suitable for a horizontal mounting method.

To compensate for shrinkage processes, you can also make a cutout on the frame bar located in the upper part of the wall, which will be able to slide down along with the clapboard attached to it.

In addition, one should not forget about the necessary gap of 2-3 mm between the slats, in order to avoid deformation of the material during thermal expansion.

Additionally, a free distance of approximately 15 mm must be provided between the ceiling and the upper lamella, which will subsequently be covered with a plinth.

As a rule, in a steam room, all surfaces, except for the floor, are finished in the same style and from the same material, so in order to make lining ceiling you should use the same techniques as for the walls.

Installation of steam, hydro and thermal insulation and how to cover the lining in the bath

But before proceeding with the installation of the lining from the lining, a number of mandatory measures should be performed:

• align the walls, if necessary;
• perform a caulk, in the event that the bath is wooden;
• lay thermal insulation;
• arrange reliable hydro and vapor barrier.

The first layer in this "pie" is waterproofing, which is laid directly on the surface of the walls or ceiling.

Next, you should lay a heater, in the role of which it is best to use mineral wool, as a material characterized by a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, fire resistance and safety for human health, even when exposed to high temperatures.

The next layer is a vapor barrier, the functions of which are to prevent the formation of condensate on the surface of the lining, but in some cases it can also carry out the duties of a waterproofing agent.

The final touch in the work on lining the bath with clapboard is its processing, which has some features, since the use of paints and varnishes is not recommended in the steam room. Yes, this is not necessary, since the appearance of the tree has a rather aesthetic appearance.

In some cases, having mastered the glazing technique, painted lining made of inexpensive wood is able to acquire a new type of material made from expensive and elite species. For processing lining in other rooms of the bath, the use of varnishes is quite allowed.

Also, you should always remember that the wood in the bath is constantly exposed to negative factors for it, so the lining must be treated with antiseptic compounds and flame retardants.

How to sheathe a bath inside with a clapboard with your own hands?

Do-it-yourself lining bath decoration - installation technology

Behind a difficult stage - the construction of a building for a bath. The eye cannot be overjoyed, because the owner of the building has long dreamed of a hot, glorious bathhouse for his family! The time has come for a no less important operation - internal device premises.

The simplest and most easily accessible option would be to finish the lining of the bath inside, since the technological process of its installation is available even to novice craftsmen. For work high level complexity, specialists are usually invited, but in this case there is no need for this.

Advantages

What is the difference between the interior decoration of the bath clapboard from other types of operations in the room, what are its advantages?

1. Wood is natural lightweight material, which, due to its unique natural properties, creates a favorable microclimate in the building, absorbs excess moisture and evaporates it when the air is dry.
2. The material is durable, wear-resistant, does not require careful constant maintenance when it is correct use, at a cost accessible to almost everyone.
3. The tree perfectly isolates sound, and for a long time retains the accumulated heat in the room.
4. A variety of lining allows you to choose the material to your taste and individual preferences.
5. Installation and installation are simple and uncomplicated, therefore accessible to all novice builders.

What breed and variety to choose?

Some types of wood, such as pine, usually contain resinous substances that, at high temperatures, are released to the surface, melt and smell strongly.

A tree in a steam room can quickly become unusable, so finishing with these types of wood is possible only in a dressing room.

Fiberboard and chipboard cannot be used, as these materials swell when wet, lose their shape and quickly become unusable.

Finishing a bath with a clapboard with your own hands allows the use of linden, larch, cedar, since they are not only aesthetic and look great, but also have medicinal properties. Oak, ash and birch have good qualities.

Linden is resistant to high temperatures and high humidity, has a pleasant smell and is able to "breathe", which makes it durable. The same can be said about the other types of wood listed.

Table - comparison of different breeds:

A high-quality cedar board does not heat up as quickly as other wood, excites with its wonderful smell, but the risk of acquiring a fake for natural cedar is too great. In addition, in terms of price, cedar is significantly ahead of larch and linden. Therefore, when choosing, be sure to take into account these nuances.

A little about vapor barrier

In order for heat and steam not to leave the room, the lining of the bath inside the clapboard should provide for thermal insulation. There are several effective ways achieve the desired effect.

• Aluminum foil, glassine is slowly attached to the wall with a mounting stapler. The space between the slats or bars of the crate is filled with insulation. Construction in without fail closed with a vapor barrier. It is extremely important to keep water out of the insulating material, so one sheet overlaps the other, covering the previous piece. 5-7 cm of such an overlap is enough.
• On a bare wall, on which the crate has not yet been installed, an insulating material is laid, which is covered with foil. All this is attached to the lathing slats.

The most suitable wall insulation is basalt wool. It is sold in the form of plates that are easily inserted between the bars or laths of the crate.

The walls must be covered with cotton wool completely, leaving no gaps. Through open spaces heat will easily escape from the room. Since working with insulation can cause eye irritation, it is advisable to work with your face covered with a bandage or respirator. So harmful particles will not get on the mucous membranes and will not cause a painful reaction.

Vapor barrier does not allow the insulation to absorb moisture and increase thermal conductivity.

Tools

A minimal but necessary set of tools will allow you to perform installation without running around the neighbors in search of the necessary parts and without being distracted from the process. It:

• Perforator. It can perfectly replace a drill, especially if the walls are made of durable materials such as brick, stone, etc.
• Stapler for fastening the insulating layer, staples.
• File for removing extra centimeters of the board. An electric jigsaw will do.
• Construction square.
• Level and several meters of fishing line.
• Roulette.
• Screwdriver.
• Screws of the right size.
• Nails.

Lathing installation

Finishing the lining of the bath will not do without installing the crate if there are irregularities on the walls. If possible, it is necessary to align the recesses and protrusions, otherwise the crate will not be able to be fixed.

Installation of the crate begins with the preparation of rails or wooden bars that will be held on the wall with self-tapping screws or nails (if the wall is wooden). They are placed at a distance of approximately 70 cm from each other in a horizontal position.

First, the slats are attached from the edges, and then closer to the middle of the wall. For this work, a level and a plumb line are used. Self-tapping screws are best selected from anti-corrosion types that are resistant to high temperature and water. After the installation is completed, the lining will be attached to the crate.

Sequence of work

Before proceeding to the most critical stage of work, the material must be left for a period of at least one day in the room where the lining will be installed. This must be done so that the plates absorb moisture from the air and no longer change their size.

After that you need:

• Determine the height of the walls and cut off excess pieces.
• The lining of the walls with clapboard must be started from the corner, it is there that the first rail is attached with the help of kleimers or nails. But the operation can also be started from the heater. Kleimers are special brackets that completely go into the tree, do not leave behind visible holes and do not rust over time. They are absolutely safe. A carelessly hammered nail can injure people, and a kleimer leaves behind a perfectly smooth surface.
• It should be fixed vertically to the wall, since the recesses created during the drying of the tree between the lining can retain water, and when the panels are vertical, moisture will drain to the floor.
• It is fastened sequentially, one panel after one, the bath is sheathed with material around the perimeter.
• The last panel usually won't fit into the remaining space, so it will have to be trimmed to size.

The lining will last much longer if it is pre-treated with drying oil or high-quality varnish. In this case, the contact of the tree with water is excluded, and the wood still retains all its useful properties.

So, the best views for finishing the premises inside are linden, larch, oak, birch, ash. They have very reasonable prices: from 500-600 to 1500 rubles. per sq.m. It remains only to buy everything, prepare the right tools And - it's time to take on a simple, but very necessary job!

The sheathed room will pleasantly please not only the owner, but also all household members, because after work you will want to immediately flood a new bathhouse smelling of fresh wood.

Finishing the bath with clapboard - instructions from the master with photos and videos

Modern Construction Materials and technology allow you to build baths from various materials. For walls, you can use foam blocks, frame insulated panels, sandwich panels, profiled or glued beams. The interior upholstery is made of glued and plastic lining (the “original” solution), waterproof OSB and fiberboard, etc. Each of these materials has its advantages and disadvantages, each finds its consumer depending on preferences and “purse thickness”.

We will not consider these modern options, let's talk about the most classic, reliable and time-tested option for building a bath - from ordinary sawn timber, for the interior upholstery of the bath we use natural lining. It does not matter much which lining is an ordinary traditional or europrofile. These are our initial data, for other options the upholstery technology will have minor differences.

Stages of work

Any job requires meticulous pre-training the better everything is thought out and prepared, the faster the upholstery will be done and the cheaper it will cost.

Where to start work:

• preparation of tools;
• measuring the premises and calculating the required amount of material;
• preparation of bearing surfaces;
• frame installation;
• clapboard upholstery;
• final finishing work.

We note right away that there are no less important and more important operations, an inattentive or unprofessional attitude to any of them can cause rather unpleasant situations, in some cases it is very difficult to fix a marriage, and this is fraught with large additional financial losses. In addition to money, time and nerves are lost.

Instrument preparation

To perform upholstery work, you will need the following tools and fixtures.

1. Tape measure and pencil for measurements.
2. Level. Now there is big choice fairly accurate levels, you can additionally purchase a laser device. But there is one problem - these tools are quite expensive, you need to use them skillfully. But this does not guarantee against rather large errors during markup. We recommend using old and very precise methods- check the vertical with an ordinary plumb line, and beat the horizontal with a hydraulic level. Despite their simplicity and low cost, these devices have the most high precision measurements.
3. Electric hand saw or hacksaw. We advise you to use an electric saw - at a cost it satisfies most consumers, makes it much easier and faster to work, improves the quality and accuracy of the cut.
4. Hammer, nail puller, etc. necessary little things for a carpenter.

   
   
   
   
   
   
   

We took into account that upholstery will not be done by professionals, they have expensive tools and fixtures. For an ordinary summer resident, it is economically unprofitable to purchase such expensive things to perform one-time work of a small volume.

Electric hand saw prices

saw hand electric circular

Video - About the lining in the bath and the principles of installation

Measurement of premises and calculation of materials

Clapboard needs to be upholstered on the ceiling and walls, therefore, their area must be measured. There is nothing complicated, only care is needed. Based on the data obtained, a lining is purchased.

1. First, when performing any work, it will not be possible to completely avoid unproductive waste. And if there is not enough practical experience in the production of works, then the amount of waste can increase to 15% or more.
2. Secondly, not all purchased lining will be of high quality, unfortunately.

Another point - during the purchase of lining, select its length and width in such a way as to minimize the number of cuts, this will help reduce waste. To do this, you need to compare its length with the dimensions of the walls and ceiling. If you get a multiple - great, if not - then the segments should be long, which will allow them to be used during upholstery.

Reiki for the frame must be at least one centimeter thick, they also need to be bought with a margin, especially since they cost a penny.

Nails can be bought copper or galvanized, they are very praised by manufacturers. But we dare to assure you that ordinary nails will serve for many years, and they cost several times cheaper. If you expect to fasten the lining with special clamps, then you will have to buy them.

A few words need to be said about the impregnation of lining and rails with various antiseptics. This operation is desirable, but not required. Coniferous wood and without impregnation will forgive for decades, and over time it is better to completely change the lining. Impregnation not only inhibits the growth of microorganisms and bacteria, but gradually poisons us as well.

Aged Wood Palette - Textured Clapboard

Impregnation for wood - the result of pronounced moisture resistance

Cleimer prices

Preparation of load-bearing surfaces

Surface preparation includes leveling and, if desired, additional insulation. It is not necessary to align each individual beam, align only those to which the wooden lath will be fixed.

Reiki, by the way, can arrive horizontally or vertically. Accordingly, the lining in such cases will be mounted vertically or horizontally.

Video - Installation of lining

It is better to check the evenness of the walls with a rope stretched in the corners of the bath, or an even long wooden slat. It is advisable to use a rope, it is more accurate and faster. Pull the rope as close to the floor and ceiling as possible, check with a straight rail the distance from the wall surfaces to the rope. If large bulges are found, they will have to be cut down, the depressions will level out already during the fastening of the crate. And then not all, but only those where it will be necessary to fasten the rails.

Frame installation

A very important point - the final result largely depends on the thoroughness of all operations. What should you pay attention to? Distance between rails. Specific values ​​​​depend on the thickness of the lining, but we recommend installing the slats at a distance of ≈ 40 centimeters. Strength and reliability will increase significantly, and the amount of work and the amount of materials will increase slightly. How to make a crate? Consider the option of vertical installation of rails. It goes without saying that the electrical cables have already been laid.

1. Nail the two extreme slats in the corners, you need to nail in level.
2. Stretch a rope between them.
3. Mark the distance between the remaining slats and nail them along the rope. If necessary, wooden spacers should be placed under the slats for their precise alignment.

In the same sequence, slats are nailed on all other surfaces.

Installation of lining

Here it is also very important to mark the first row, check the correct position several times. It does not take much time, but it allows you to insure against troubles. If you have not made control marks on the frame rails, then you should check the positions of the rows with a level.

If you have little practical experience, make marks on the rails for the location of the lining every three to four rows. Marks can be made on each rail with a pencil or beat off all at once with a special rope with blue, they are sold in every hardware store. Such marking will allow you to constantly monitor the position of the rows and, if small deviations occur, correct them in a timely manner.

The nails are nailed to the slats of the frame, respectively, the distance between them is equal to the distance between the slats.

Problems can arise if the ceiling and floor are not parallel to each other, the last row of lining must be cut at an angle. What to do? Think while laying out the wireframe. If the height deviations are less than 1.5 cm, then it is better to cut only the bottom row of the lining, the place will be closed with a plinth, the “oblique” lining at the bottom is less noticeable - various sunbeds and other “bathing equipment” in many places completely hide the plinth. If the height difference is large, divide it into two parts, you will need to cut both the lower and upper rows. What exactly to cut off (thorn or groove) does not matter.

Prices for lining

Video - How to nail a lining. Installation subtleties

The lining is fixed with studs or kleimers, the studs must be driven into the spike under a flush slope, the length of the studs is ≈1.5 cm. We do not recommend using self-tapping screws - it is long and expensive, and there is zero additional effect. The lining is never affected by pulling forces. The kleimer is fixed in the grooves, nailed to the rails. The gaps at the bottom and top are closed with skirting boards.

It is not necessary to seal the lining with a mallet, especially eurolining. She has spikes much longer, which prevents them from slipping out of the grooves during expansion / shrinkage.

Very important - leave gaps for shrinkage. If the bath has not yet fully matured after laying the log house, then you will have to install a floating crate. It is easy to make, there are special elements for floating fixation of the frame.

Never rush, it is better to first check the position of the lining several times and only then securely fix it. Only with time, when experience already appears, the pace of work can be increased.

Video - Floating crate for lining installation

On the Internet you can find advice from "experts" to insulate baths mineral wool or foil - we consider this a waste of money and time. This option should be used only if the bath is built of silicate bricks.

If there are many tasks, conditions should be discussed. Foam blocks and wood keep heat normally. And for wooden baths foil does more harm than good - natural ventilation is disturbed with all the ensuing consequences. Unscrupulous shabashniki are engaged in such "warming" in order to rip more money from the customer

Video - Internal lining of the bath clapboard

Finishing work

These include the installation of skirting boards on the floor and fillets on the ceiling. Do not forget to always leave a gap of 1÷2 cm between the last row of lining and the ceiling to compensate for expansion / shrinkage. The gap is closed with a fillet ( ceiling plinth), the fillet is fixed to the ceiling - this is very important. Otherwise, the gaps left will not “work”, there are high risks of warping.

The lining can be coated with special varnishes, stains that are resistant to difficult operating conditions, or the surfaces can be left untreated. It is undesirable to cover with varnishes, it must be remembered that absolutely all polymer resins, and it is from them that most stable varnishes are made, emit harmful chemical compounds. The harmfulness of paint and varnish coatings is determined individually in each country, the limit values ​​​​of evaporation are regulated. What in some countries is strictly prohibited for use, in others is called "environmentally friendly" products. Decide for yourself if you need beautiful bath, or you wish to have a safe steam room. What can be advised - carefully inspect all surfaces and, if necessary, grind problem areas on the lining. To varnish or not is an amateur's business.

Prices for wooden skirting boards

wooden plinth

Conclusion

If you follow all the recommendations: do not rush, do not be lazy to double-check the markings and work done several times, then upholstery of the bath with clapboard will not seem very difficult. Of course, on condition - there is a desire and hands grow from where it is necessary. Work is best done with an assistant - faster, easier, and safer. And the last thing - follow the elementary safety rules, no beautiful, clapboard upholstered bathhouse compensates for the loss of health.