Installation of pvc wall panels. Installation of decorative plastic panels on walls and ceilings

Not a single high-quality repair of the premises of an apartment or a private house can be imagined without work aimed at leveling the surfaces of the ceiling and walls. This can be done with various materials. It all depends on customer requirements and budget. This article will look at how you can align walls or ceilings using.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding directly to the installation, it is necessary to perform a series of preparatory work. In this case, everything depends on the condition of the surface that needs to be leveled. For example, consider the walls of one of the rooms. The wooden slats of the frame will be located horizontally, and the plastic panels will be mounted vertically to them.

Each wall is usually flat surface in the form of a rectangle. To align it with plastic panels, it is not enough just to mount a frame of wooden slats, attaching them only to quick-mount screws, since it will to some extent repeat the unevenness of the walls. To achieve the desired result, you must use building level and position each of the elements wooden frame so that it serves as a base for mounting a perfectly flat surface.

You should start by creating a frame mounting scheme. To do this, it is necessary to take into account the distances between adjacent horizontally arranged rails. In most cases, it is 50 cm. Rails are also installed around the perimeter of the wall. They will then be attached to the starting profile (at floor level), the ceiling plinth and corners (internal or external, depending on the method of joining with adjacent walls).

During repairs, you don’t always want to get involved with “wet” work - laying tiles, for example. There are more simple technology- wall decoration with plastic panels. You can cope on your own even without much experience construction works and in a day or two to carry out repairs in the bathroom, toilet, balcony / loggia and kitchen.

Types of plastic panels for wall decoration

This type of finishing material is made of PVC - polyvinyl chloride. In a semi-liquid state, this polymer is extruded into a mold. A drawing is applied to the finished panels. It can be first printed on film, then glued and varnished (laminated panels). Moreover, these panels may not have a flat, but a textured surface. The drawing applied using this technology retains paint for a long time, but such materials cost about two times more.

Another technology is to apply the drawing directly to the plastic, after which it is covered with two layers of varnish. Cheaper technology, but the service life and quality of the pattern is lower.

Ceiling and wall

There are two types of plastic panels - for ceilings and for walls. Those designed for the ceiling have a thickness of 5 mm and thinner partitions, and wall ones - from 8 to 10 mm and a greater thickness of walls and partitions. You can determine which view is in front of you by looking at the cut. This type of finishing material differs in that it has a flat surface and, with a tight joint, the seams are not very noticeable.

There is another standard size, which is also called plastic lining - with a thickness of 10 mm, the panel has a width of 10 cm and shaped edges, which are more typical for plastic lining. If you finish the walls with this material, the surface will not be flat, but embossed, similar to a wooden lining.

Sizes and prices

In width, plastic wall panels are most often 25 cm and 37 cm, length - 2700 cm and 3000 cm. There are other non-standard sizes, but these are most common. For the price, you can observe a rather strong spread - it depends on the wall thickness, type of printing, manufacturer, complexity of the pattern, etc.

Name/photo	Parameters (width/length/thickness)	Coloring type	Manufacturer	Price for 1 panel
violet pink	250mm2700mm8mm		V-Plast, Russia	120 rub
Kanamala	250mm2700mm9mm	lamination	Vivipan	220 rub
PVC Panel Mosaic Turquoise	950mm480mm3mm		Russia	128 rub
scarlet	250mm2700mm8mm		Cronoplast (Russia)	215 rub

Thin PVC wall panels

Above we talked about products that consist of two layers of plastic connected by jumpers. Along with a lot of advantages, they have a rather serious drawback: if you apply enough force, they can be pushed through. This is often the reason for not using them. Therefore, thin wall plastic panels appeared on the market not so long ago. Their thickness is 3 mm and no cells. Only a layer of plastic with a pattern applied to the surface. Accordingly, there is nothing to push through. The dimensions of this type of panels are 950*480mm or so.

The method of installation is different for them - they are glued to the walls. Due to the fact that this finishing material has a very small thickness, it is cut with scissors and, moreover, takes up very little space from the room - 3 mm.

What to look for when choosing

It is clear that the choice begins with color and pattern. But in order to avoid difficulties during the installation process, when buying, you need to track some points:

It is also worth checking the quality of the polymer used. It is necessary to take one bar so that it bends by about 30% and straighten it. After that, inspect it. If there is no damage to the plastic or pattern, everything is fine.

Correct technology for mounting plastic panels on walls

What is good about decorating walls with plastic panels is that you can do it yourself, it takes a little time. Well, and one more plus - you need the usual tools:

This is all that may be needed when installing PVC panels on the walls. It takes time - one or two days, depending on the experience and repaired areas.

What to make a crate

The installation of PVC panels on the walls according to the technology should be carried out on the crate. The crate is made from:

Of the three listed materials for mounting plastic panels in the bathroom, it is best to use plastic. It reacts little to temperature changes, does not react in any way to changes in humidity, does not rot or crack. Feels good in a humid environment galvanization, but it should be good quality otherwise it will rust. The most unimportant material is wood, but with proper processing, they also cost years. And for this to be true, follow the recommendations for application on the antibacterial composition exactly. In some cases, it is enough to smear with a brush a couple of times, in others - soak for a while and then dry.

How to make a crate

Before starting the installation of the sheathing under the PVC panels, the walls must be prepared. First, remove the old finish and everything that can fall off. If there are large indentations on the surface, it is better to close them up, and strongly protruding parts can be cut off. After the wall has become more or less even, it is treated with a primer with an antibacterial component (against fungi and mold). After that, you can already proceed with the installation of the crate.

Lathing slats are located perpendicular to the PVC panels. That is, if you mount the panels vertically, the crate - horizontally and vice versa. Lathing battens are installed at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other. The optimal distance is 30 cm (the panel will “walk” less). Planks are attached at the beginning and end of the wall, as well as around window and door openings.

The crate is fastened under the plastic panels, most often on dowels. AT concrete wall put 6 * 40 mm (so that a piece does not fall out on the back of the concrete partition), in a brick - 6 * 60 mm. Fasteners are installed in increments of 50-60 cm.

In order for the wall decoration with plastic panels to be even and beautiful, the crate must be set in the same plane. To do this, wooden strips are installed under the wooden planks where necessary (you can - pieces of plywood), only they also need to be treated with a composition from fungi and mold.

You can also use perforated hangers for plasterboard ceilings. They are used when placing metal profiles in the same plane, but they can also be used when installing wooden bars.

If you decide to make a crate from plastic mounting profiles, then you should take into account one point: they must be strictly perpendicular to the PVC panels. Even a slight deviation can lead to the fact that the clamps simply do not snap into place and will not hold anything. Therefore, check the verticals / horizontals very carefully. One more thing: along the perimeter of walls, doors and windows, it is better to install wooden planks of the same thickness as plastic guides: we will attach starting profiles to them.

Installation of plastic panels

In addition to the actual wall plastic panels in the store, you will need to buy some more fittings - these are corner, starting and F-shaped profiles. They are necessary in order to give the finish a finished and neat look.

At the level of the floor and ceiling, you can use either a starting or ceiling plinth. The starting one is just a narrow strip of plastic, and the ceiling plinth is a shaped product that has a characteristic cut.

Finishing walls with PVC panels begins with the installation of selected profiles in one of the corners and at the top / bottom. They are attached to the installed slats of the crate. Fasteners are selected depending on what material was chosen for the crate. The result is something very similar to a frame. We will insert panels into it.

The problem node is the junction of the corner and ceiling plinth (we do the same below)

Next, cut the first panel along the length or height of the wall. cut plastic Wall panels saw blade for metal. When working strongly with your hand (and even more so with your foot), do not lean - push through. In order for the strip to stand in its place without problems, carefully measure the length, subtract 4-5 mm and cut it off.

A protruding spike is cut off from the first strip, after which it is inserted into the corner profile with the cut side, tucking the edges into the upper and lower. Lightly tapping with the palm of your hand, drive the bar all the way, check the verticality with a level by applying it to the edge of the installed strip. Then they are fixed to each plank of the crate.

Having installed and fixed the first strip, cut off the second one, join it with the first one, fix it, etc. No complications. Problems can only arise with the last panel on the wall. It usually has to be cut in width, and then try to fill it immediately into the groove of the previous bar and into the corner or starting profile. It does not always work out neatly - often the plastic is jammed. This situation can be avoided without fixing the second corner profile. Then, a corner profile is put on the panel cut to size, all this is joined together with the previous bar, and only then the corner profile is fixed. This is not entirely correct, since only one half of the corner profile is attached, and the second remains loose. But having suffered, trying to do the right thing, you don’t pay attention to it. Then everything repeats - further wall decoration with plastic panels occurs in the same way.

How to do without corner profiles

If the presence of skirting boards at the top and bottom of the wall is familiar to us, then not everyone likes the corner profiles. When decorating walls with plastic panels, you can do without them. You will need a sharp wallpaper or clerical knife. If a strip of plastic is cut from the back in the right place, the panel can be bent. From the front side, this will not be visible in any way, and torment with the last panel can be avoided. And outwardly, many people like this way more.

To correctly determine where to cut, insert the penultimate panel, fasten it. We take a piece of panel a few centimeters wide, insert it into the already installed one and mark where the corner is. We take it out, cut out a strip of plastic in the marked place, try it on. If everything is fine, use this piece as a template, transferring exactly the place of the cut. This is also not according to technology, but such wall decoration with plastic panels looks, it seems to me, better. Especially if the color and texture of the corner profile is different.

How else can you fix PVC panels on the walls

Although the method of decorating walls with plastic panels described above is not very complicated, it is not suitable for everyone. For example, the walls are perfectly even after plastering on lighthouses or. It is clear that the crate is not needed. It will only take up space. In this case, they go to the violation of technology - they glue plastic panels on silicone or on mounting foam.

Starting profiles in this case will still have to be installed, but they will need to be fixed to the appropriate dowels. After that, foam (zigzag) or silicone (islets with a step of 10-15 cm) is applied to the back side of the panel, the bar is inserted into the profiles, pressed, fixed in one or two places with the appropriate fasteners. Continue in the same spirit.

The advantage of the method is very fast, the disadvantage is that it only works on flat (or almost) walls. But the most important thing is that it is simply impossible to remove the trim without destroying the plastic panels.

Plastic panels are one of the most popular finishing materials due to the low price and great choice colors. One of the big advantages of lamellas is the possibility of self-installation.

Why choose PVC panels, and which ones?

You should buy only certified goods, as fakes are of poor quality, therefore they do not have sufficient strength and quickly fade. Advantages of plastic plates:

high resistance to moisture and chemicals;
simplicity and ease of installation;
hygiene;
fire safety;
durability;
biological resistance;
low cost.

The disadvantage of the material is low impact resistance, so care must be taken during transportation and installation. The strength depends on both the wall thickness and the number of stiffeners inside the panel. We check it by pressing a finger on the panel: if it bends, then the service life will be short.

Depending on the production technology, the panels are printed and film, according to the quality of the coating - glossy and matte. Naturally, the main criteria when choosing lamellas are color and pattern, but there are several nuances that you need to pay attention to when buying a material. If the material is packed, it is advisable to unpack it and inspect each panel:

Let's look at the cut. The thicker the jumper and the polymer layer on the front and back of the panel, the stronger the material. Weight can be a guideline, thick lamellas are heavier.
Plastic should have the same thickness throughout the plate, without thin spots and thickenings.
We check the geometry: the cells and edges should be smooth without flaws.
The drawing on the front side must be of high quality and clearly applied, without blurry spots, scratches.
Buy material from the same batch, if this is not possible, then carefully compare the pattern and color so that the plastic elements do not differ in tone.

The choice of plastic elements depends on the purpose of the room in which the sheathing will be performed. Several types of panels are produced:

1. Traditional lamellas with tongue-and-groove connection in the form of a plastic board.
2. Sheet panels resembling sheets of plywood.
3. Plastic lining, outwardly resembling an analogue made of wood of small width and various colors.

Material should be selected taking into account the design and purpose of the room. PVC lining will perfectly replace the wooden counterpart, create a warm atmosphere. Sheet panels are used for finishing rooms with walls of large areas. Wall panels are ideal for kitchens, baths, hallways and other spaces due to their ease of maintenance: dirt can be easily removed with a damp cloth. detergents.

The main advantage of plastic is its low cost. Dimensions of slats: width: 20–35 cm, thickness: 8–10 mm, length: 2.7–3 m. Due to such dimensions and low cost, it is possible to finish with PVC plates with a minimum budget.

How to prepare the walls, and what tool to stock up?

We begin work on finishing with the calculation of the required amount of material. First, we take measurements from the room: length, width, height. Then we measure the window and door openings. The calculation of the material depends on the method of fixing the panels. They can be mounted either vertically or horizontally. If the panels are mounted vertically, then we subtract the width of the openings from the length of the perimeter of the room and divide by the width of the lamella. We add 2-3 spare elements to the received quantity. With horizontal fastening, we find the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, divide it by the area of one lamella. Material consumption with this fastening increases due to trimming blanks, so we take 10% more in reserve.

To calculate how many rails are needed for the crate, we divide the height of the wall by the step between the rails and multiply by the perimeter of the room. The result obtained is the required number of rails in linear meters. The number of corner profiles is calculated by measuring the height of the corners and multiplying this value by their total number. In addition, we add the sum of the perimeters of door and window openings to the obtained value.

If we glue plastic directly on the walls, then we carry out preparatory work. We clean the walls from the old coating, repair the surface, filling up all the cracks, level out large defects, treat the surface with an antifungal agent. This will protect the walls under the plastic from mold and fungus, which negatively affects the microclimate of the room. The method of attaching PVC plates to the frame does not require the preparation of walls. In addition, communications and wires can be hidden under the coating. The frame can be made of wooden or plastic slats, metal profiles. Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages.

A wooden frame is rarely used, only for dry rooms. The tree is adversely affected by temperature changes, high humidity. Therefore, they are not used in rooms where the climate has a noticeable effect, for example, a veranda, loggia, balcony. We choose a beam of a small section, 30x30 mm and 30x40 mm are suitable. We take a beam of a larger section if we insulate the walls.

U-shaped plastic profiles have many advantages: low cost, convenience and ease of installation, light weight, resistance to moisture and high temperatures. We fix the profiles every 30 cm with dowels and self-tapping screws. We join the profiles at a certain angle, cut the material with a hacksaw and a construction miter box, which makes it possible to obtain even cuts that fit snugly together. An additional advantage of plastic profiles is the presence of cable channels formed due to internal grooves that can be used for laying wires and communications. Due to the thinness of the plastic frame, you can save several centimeters of the internal area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

The metal frame is more used for fixing drywall, as it is heavier. If a metal frame is used, corrugated PVC pipes should be used to lay the wiring cables to protect the wire braid from the sharp edges of the metal frame and increase fire safety.

To perform the work, we prepare the tools:

perforator or drill;
hacksaw;
construction miter box;
sharp knife;
roulette;
building level;
a hammer.

We mark the walls and assemble the frame - how to get started?

Depending on the direction of finishing, the crate can be mounted vertically or horizontally; accordingly, we apply markings. Since we will install a decorative PVC plinth at the junction of the ceiling and the slabs, we pre-drill holes for dowels under the ceiling with a puncher or drill to install the strips on which we will mount the plinth. Similarly, we make holes for attaching corner strips. Before installing the frame, you need to consider where hanging cabinets, shelves or other decorative elements will hang. In these places we fasten additional bars horizontally. Before installation, we treat wooden parts with antiseptic agents.

In order to avoid distortions, which will give the wall an unsightly appearance, we fasten the crate, strictly observing horizontality and verticality with the help of a level. The slats of the frame must lie in the same plane. In order not to try on each rail, we make markings on the wall.

We place the bottom row 1-2 cm above the floor level. We make a mark on the wall with a pencil and draw a horizontal line along the entire perimeter using the level. We draw the same horizontal line under the ceiling or mark the edge of the finish if the finish is not up to the ceiling. Next, for the horizontal fastening of the frame, we measure 40–50 cm from the lower horizontal line and draw a new line parallel to it along the perimeter. Similarly, we apply parallel horizontal lines to the ceiling.

We fix the panels to the frame perpendicularly. If it is necessary to fix the plastic horizontally, we assemble a vertical frame. To do this, we apply the first line on the wall from ceiling to floor, measuring the distance from the corner, using a plumb line or level. Then we make markings for the second corner. Between the corners we draw the remaining parallel lines with a step of 50 cm.

Professionals recommend marking walls not only with a level and marks, but also using an ordinary rope of small thickness for quick marking. It is done simply. We paint the rope with colored crayons, apply it to the wall, colored marks from the chalk will remain at the points of contact. This method will speed up the marking and save time on preparatory work.

According to the marking at a distance of half a meter from each other, we drill holes for the dowels, then we apply the rails and fix them on the wall with fixing material. If the walls are uneven, level the plane of the frame with wooden wedges. If necessary, hide the wiring under the trim. To do this, we drill holes in the wall, with the help of clamps we fix the wires on the wall. We pay attention that they do not protrude beyond the plane of the frame.

Step by step installation of plastic panels

If it is necessary to insulate the walls, we put a heater between the bars of the frame. In this case, it should be taken into account that we take the cross section of the beam, respectively, with the thickness of the heat insulator. As thermal insulation material you can use polystyrene plates, which we fasten with an adhesive solution, additionally fixing them with special dowels - "fungi". Then, on top of the crate with insulation, we attach a vapor barrier film.

We start the installation of PVC panels on the wall from the corner where we fix the starting bar. Insert the crest of the first plastic lamella into the groove of this plank. If necessary, we adjust the plastic elements in length by cutting them with a hacksaw. From the back side, we fix the panel on the frame using a stapler with special brackets. Next, we install the second panel in the groove of the first, we make sure that the elements are in close contact. Then securely fix them to the crate. For maximum sealing, silicone is applied to the joints before installation.

By analogy, we fasten the remaining lamellas. We insert the last panel into the groove of the pre-installed finishing strip. If the width of the lamella is too large, cut it to the required size, but not more than a third of the width. Under the sockets and switches in the panels, we pre-cut holes of appropriate sizes. After installing the lamellas, we close the holes with boxes.

When the walls are completely sheathed, they should present a monolithic, even surface without gaps along the seams and perimeter. To do this, we install special plastic moldings at the seams, in the corners and at the joints. Thanks to their design, the edges of the panels can be inserted from both sides, which makes the corners more visually appealing.

When decorating walls with PVC slabs with your own hands, you should adhere to the following rules:

If we attach the lamellas to the frame, we do not level the surface of the walls to an ideal state, we eliminate only significant defects. This makes it possible to save on finishing work.
We fix the wooden crate only with the help of galvanized dowels and self-tapping screws.
The first trim elements must be perfectly aligned, because they will align the rest of the panels. If the first panel is installed crookedly, the entire skin will be uneven.
Materials before installation must lie down. If sheathing work is carried out in the summer season, the plastic is kept at room temperature for 12 hours. In winter, we increase this period to two days if the material was stored at a temperature of -10 degrees.
If PVC lamellas are installed in a room with high humidity, we make ventilation cuts in the frame.
It is necessary to unpack the panels very carefully, as they are unstable to mechanical damage. We take out the lamellas from the packaging by the edge and only separately.
To make the cuts neat, a hacksaw should be used with fine teeth, it is better to take a hacksaw for metal.
When installing panels with a pattern, we start the sheathing from the left corner, moving sequentially to the right.

Quality interior decoration plastic plates depends on the evenness of the installation of the frame. The slats should be adjusted as tightly as possible, then the surface will look perfectly flat. If you follow the recommendations, the sheathing will be neat and will last a long time, making the premises attractive and cozy.

AT skillful hands wall cladding with plastic panels resembles the assembly of crafts from children's constructor: the same pleasant to the touch details, the same principles of fastening PVC panels: either with glue on a pre-prepared surface, or with bolts on a pre-prepared frame.

But if you look closely, each method of their installation will have its own nuances that must be taken into account.

Essence this method consists in fixing the panels with your own hands on a special frame, called a crate. Its main difficulty is to correctly calculate the upper and lower levels of the crate, which must run strictly parallel to each other: the uniform distribution of the guides, on which they will subsequently be attached, depends on this.

However, this does not mean that additional preparation is not needed for such installation. The latter directly depends on the purpose of the room.

In rooms with stable temperature and humidity - such, as a rule, are living rooms - it is enough to simply remove the old peeling coating from the walls with a spatula, carefully inspect for cracks, crevices and chips and, if necessary, seal them with putty or plaster.

If temperature fluctuations and humidity in the room are a common occurrence (remember, for example, bathrooms, kitchens, balconies), it will be additionally required.

Waterproofing layer with a roller or paint brush applied to pre-moistened walls. And after it dries, the walls are processed.

Most often, the crate is made either of wood or metal.

Wooden blocks of at least 20 × 20 mm in thickness are cheaper, but they are less durable and are not suitable for rooms with high level humidity. Therefore, before use, they must be properly dried (the permissible moisture content of the tree should not exceed 12-15%) and be sure to treat with an antiseptic to protect against decay and insects.

The metal profile is more expensive, but suitable for any premises, stronger and more durable. At the same time, a UD profile is distinguished, with the help of which the crate contour is formed, and a CD profile inserted into it, which serves as intermediate elements (guides).

But regardless of the material before its installation, you need to stock up:

building level and plumb - to determine the position of the main elements of the crate;
dowels - for attaching it to the wall;
screws - for fastening its elements to each other;
tape measure - to measure the distance between the guides;
material for substrates under the guides - wood or thick plywood;
screwdriver and drill - to facilitate the work.

To cut a metal profile, you will need metal scissors. For additional work with wooden blocks - a saw with medium teeth, a chisel, a mallet.

Mounting the batten to the wall

The installation of the crate can be divided into several stages

Marking the frame for wall panels

It begins with the definition of the lower level, which runs along the floor in such a way that later a plinth can be screwed onto it. In this case, the “reference point” is the most protruding part of the wall: focusing on it, they determine the distance by which the crate will subsequently recede from the wall.

If it's about wooden bars, another 2-3 mm is added to this distance, as a discount for their possible irregularities.

Then comes the determination of the upper level, passing along the intended height of the ceiling, and then the side levels. When setting the upper and lower levels, it is necessary to use the building level, and when setting the side levels - a plumb line.

Bringing the frame to the proper level

In general, all levels are not attached to the walls closely, but on direct suspensions, observing the necessary indentation. The outer edges of the batten should be at the same level, which can be adjusted either by grinding the battens of the batten or by substrates.

The distance between the screws on which the profile is attached should be 20-25 cm for a wooden profile and 15-25 cm for a metal profile.

Fastening rails inside the frame frame

To begin with, they cover all the protruding elements of the wall, as well as window and door openings.

The purpose of this action is to securely fasten the edges of the skin elements along their boundaries. Then intermediate profiles are mounted.

When installing them, it is necessary to take into account how the PVC panels will be attached - horizontally or vertically: they are fixed perpendicular to the guides.

Wooden bars (for wooden crates) and CD profiles (for metal) are inserted into the frame frame and fixed with screws along the edges. To give metal profile additional rigidity, it is recommended to use U-shaped profiles - they are screwed to its guides after the profile is installed and fixed.

Naturally, when carrying out this type of work, do not forget to use the building level. But here the crate is ready. And it's time to start installing PVC panels.

How to fix?

To do this, stock up:

plastic panels, which, before starting work, must “acclimatize” by staying in the room intended for decoration for at least a day;
moldings, that is, special corner profiles that ensure smooth joining;
clamps - special brackets for fastening;
a building level that helps to determine the location of the first PVC panel on the crate as accurately as possible, serving as a guide for further installation;
with a special knife or saw for metal for cutting panels.

The installation of PVC panels does not begin with the installation of moldings - internal and external: it is from them that you will have to build on in the future.

The first panel is installed with a spike in the profile, attaching it to the crate with the help of clamps. The second panel is installed in the groove of the previous one and fastened in the same way. Thus, they reach the end of the wall.

The latter is cut in such a way that it can be installed all the way to the finishing corner, while the distance between its spike and the groove of the previous panel should be 2-3 mm.

The cut edge is inserted into the profile, then the panel is pulled out and connected to the previous panel.

If it is necessary to hide the moldings, the installation technology of plastic wall panels becomes more complicated. The first panel is attached strictly in the very corner, the next - close to it. A spike is removed on one of the corner panels, as a result, a groove appears on the end.

This panel is pushed onto the hook brackets installed on the second profile. The next corner panel is inserted into the starting profile.

Installation of PVC panels without crates

The essence of mounting panels without crates is to glue the panels directly to the wall. And its main difficulty is in the preparation of walls, which require careful alignment, and correct selection adhesive compound.

The initial preparation of the walls is the same as with the frame method: the old coating is removed and the cracks are sealed. Of course, it is difficult to perfectly align the wall, however, the allowable size of drops, bumps and pits should not exceed 5 mm, otherwise the plastic may peel off or be damaged.

And taking into account the fact that a dusty, dirty and greasy surface is not able to provide sufficient adhesion to any glue, there is a need for high-quality cleaning of the walls: washing off the whitewash, removing grease with detergents, priming.

The range of glue on the modern market is great. For the installation of plastic panels with their own hands are great universal means such as Kleiberit 636, Emfikol 34012A or Moment Crystal, but it is best to use an adhesive designed specifically for gluing plastic. Good glue:

after drying, it becomes transparent and forms a film layer;
not afraid of moisture, frost and temperature changes;
bonds surfaces for a long period and sets quickly.

Do not use hot glue to fasten the panels.

It provides too rigid fixation and, "interacting" with plastic, which has a considerable coefficient of thermal expansion, deprives the panels made of it of free play, thereby contributing to their separation from the walls.

More reliable non-expanding polyurethane sealant and liquid nails - their sufficient plasticity does not allow the panel to come off the wall during temperature fluctuations.

PVC panels are glued to the wall as follows:

the panel is taken and the back side is wiped with a damp cloth to remove dust;
glue is applied on the back side in a dotted way, the distance between the drops of which varies from 25 cm to 35 cm;
then the panel is applied to the wall.

If liquid nails were used when trying to glue it, it is better to tap it and tear it off: this type of glue requires weathering for 5-7 minutes - only then it will acquire additional rigidity and will not allow the panel to lag behind the wall after pressing it again until it is completely dry.

For the most part, it makes no sense to form external and internal corners during frameless installation of PVC panels. A simple cladding with conventional plastic corners is sufficient, in which there are no grooves for inserting panels.

They simply stick on transparent silicone, wiping with a damp cloth to remove excess silicone. The size of such inserts ranges from 20 mm to 50 mm, depending on the curvature of the corners. If it is required to glue PVC panels around the outlet, the place for the outlet is pre-cut out, and the electricity is turned off.

At the last stage of installation, floor and ceiling plinths which are fastened with self-tapping screws. The joints between the panels are treated with mounting foam or transparent silicone sealant(the latter is preferred in rooms with high humidity).

The cladding of the ceiling and walls with the help of PVC panels is becoming more widespread and popular. This is a simple, affordable and aesthetic option. In most cases, when installing such panels, a frame and crate are used, but in some situations this can be avoided. If the panels are mounted without a crate, a special glue comes to the rescue, which will act as a fastener between the wall and the panel.

How to fix PVC panels to a wall without a crate

Fixing PVC panels to a surface without the use of a batten is a process with the right work steps, a sensible choice of adhesive.

In the process under consideration, the adhesive plays a crucial role, and therefore its characteristics and properties will determine the quality of the repair as a whole.

When do-it-yourself installation without crates is possible

Mounting PVC panels on a wall or ceiling without a crate is quite simple, and it is quite possible to cope with such a task with your own hands. This option requires the use of a minimum of tools, knowledge and effort. Among the main requirements, criteria are put forward for the condition of the wall, which must be dry and even, as well as the choice of adhesive. It is not recommended to use this option for specific rooms with temperature differences and non-standard operating conditions.

When fastening without a frame is not possible

There are a number of cases when certain restrictions are imposed due to which it is simply impossible to fasten plastic panels without a frame.

Among the main such cases are:

the wall has significant defects or irregularities;
the old coating is not removed or is partially removed;
the surface of the wall does not dry out.

Of course, this is not a complete list, since in each individual situation and room conditions may be different.

How to fix plastic wall panels simply to a wall without a frame: options

In the case when wall panels are attached directly to a bare wall, then the only option for fixing them without additional devices and damaging the wall is gluing. The choice of adhesive, as well as surface preparation, should be taken responsibly. Depending on the quality of the materials used, as well as the thoroughness of the preparatory work, the final result will depend. In addition, the reliability and durability of the attachment can also vary depending on these aspects.

What acts as a wall mount

In the case when the installation of PVC panels is carried out without a crate, then a special glue acts as an attachment to the wall. The range of glue on the modern market is represented by a variety of brands and varieties. It is recommended to refer to the rating of individual brands and their manufacturers, choosing only the best products.

Among all the options offered for sale, it is recommended to pay special attention to glue for gluing plastic.

When choosing glue, you should pay attention to some features:

after drying, it should become transparent and form a film layer;
glue must be resistant to moisture, frost and any temperature extremes;
must ensure long-term and reliable fixation;
should bond surfaces for a long period and quickly harden.

It is not recommended to use hot melt glue to fasten the panels. With temperature fluctuations, it can expand, up to the complete separation of the fragment from the wall surface. Liquid nails and polyurethane sealant are more effective.

What materials are used for mounting just on the wall

In the case when the installation is carried out directly on a bare pre-prepared wall, the workflow will require:

plastic PVC panels;
specially selected glue;
building level;
grinder for sectioning plastic panels;
marking devices.

In addition, do not forget about the materials that will be used for preliminary leveling, smearing and degreasing the surface.

How to attach PVC wall panels

PVC wall panels are fastened according to a certain algorithm. Mounting on a wall without battens is a simple process that everyone can handle.

Before proceeding with the installation of panels, you must first prepare the surface. To do this, the wall is initially leveled, cleaned and degreased.

The further order of work will be as follows:

A separate panel is taken and wiped with a damp cloth from the back.
Further, glue is applied to the same surface in a dotted manner, with a gap between individual drops of a couple of decimeters.
After these steps, the panel is applied to the wall.
After applying the fragment to the wall, it is pressed for a few seconds.

If liquid nails acted as fasteners to the wall, then after gluing the fragment is recommended to be tapped evenly and torn off. This is due to the fact that this type of glue needs five minutes of ventilation to acquire the necessary rigidity.

Is it possible to install PVC panels without crates on the ceiling

Before you begin to fasten plastic panels to a ceiling without a crate, you must first determine the distance between the panels and the ceiling. The mentioned gap depends on the type of lighting used or planned.

In the case when lighting is carried out by built-in lamps, the gap should be at least ten to fifteen centimeters. This is necessary in order to completely and fully hide the wiring. It is recommended to pre-plan the location of the fixtures, cut holes for them and install the plinths of lighting devices.

In addition to the above preliminary steps, in the case of the ceiling, as well as with the walls, it is necessary to level and clean it. In most cases, you can do without the crate, and the stages of work will coincide with the installation of panels on the walls. The only difference is that before attaching the fragments to the ceiling, it is necessary to immediately install ceiling plinths on three walls. In the process of work, it is recommended to regularly use the building level.

If installation work are carried out in a bathroom or other room with high humidity, then the gaps formed in the wall decoration should be filled with silicone sealant. This will ensure the waterproofness and durability of the ceiling finish.

The article examined the features and varieties of such a process as fixing PVC panels to a surface without a crate. In general, this is an unusual, but common mounting method, which is in many ways not inferior to the process using frames.