Easter cactus: why does Ripsalidopsis not bloom and what care does it need? Ripsalidopsis (Easter cactus): home care Ripsalidopsis hatiora or Easter cactus.

Indoor flower ripsalidopsis belongs to a small family of epiphytic plants of the cactus family, which includes from 5 to 10 species (depending on the source). Living in the tropical forests of Brazil, ripsalidopsis are branched shrubs with segmented shoots growing upwards and bright elegant flowers, painted in red, pink, yellow or white.

Many specialists are well aware of another name for the genus - hatiora, with the origin of which a whole story is connected: initially, the exotic cactus was named "hariot" in honor of the famous English naturalist and mathematician Thomas Harriot, but it soon turned out that a plant with this name already exists in botanical directories had to enter an anagram. But with the popular nickname, everything is very clear: for spring flowering, flower growers call ripsalidopsis "Easter cactus". Beautiful, is not it? Just to match the riot of colors that the tropical epiphyte annually gives to the world around us for the holiday of Bright Sunday.

Growing conditions

Ripsalidopsis is an unpretentious plant, but for full development it needs good lighting and the right temperature regime. It is recommended to place the flower on the south side with obligatory shading from direct sun.

In the summer months, it is advisable to keep the Easter cactus in the open air at + 18 ... + 25 ° C. The alternation of night coolness and daytime heat has a positive effect on the quality of ripsalidopsis growth. In winter, when flower buds are laid, the plant should rest in a bright room at a temperature not higher than + 12 ... + 14 ° C.

Agricultural technology

Like most epiphytes, ripsalidopsis easily adapts to indoor conditions, which means that caring for it will not be too troublesome:

• In spring and summer, the unusual cactus is moderately watered as the surface of the soil in the pot dries. In winter, during the dormant period, watering is carried out much less frequently: every 15-20 days. After 30-40 minutes, excess water is drained from the pan. Keep in mind that ripsalidopsis does not tolerate hypothermia of the root system, so irrigation water should be not only soft, but also warm.
• In the summer heat, it is recommended to spray the plant daily through a fine sprayer, since the elastic, fleshy shoots of ripsalidopsis begin to wrinkle and wither from the dryness of the air. On particularly hot days, a flower pot can be placed on a tray with wet peat or expanded clay, but make sure that the roots “peeping” out of the drainage holes do not touch the water.
• During active vegetation and flowering, the plant must be fed with complex mineral fertilizer every 12-15 days. The optimal ratio of nutrients: NPK = 9:18:24. In winter, top dressing is not carried out.

And further. If ripsalidopsis seems too "shaggy" and branchy to you, trim it. This plant is formed manually: the extra segments are simply gently unscrewed from the shoot.

Transplant rules

Ripsalidopsis is transplanted in the spring: young pets - annually, older plants - every 2-3 years, and large mature specimens are not recommended to be disturbed more than once every 5 years.

The procedure is carried out as follows:

• Drainage is laid at the bottom of a low pot (expanded clay, pebbles, broken bricks), and a layer of slightly acidic or neutral substrate is poured over it, composed of leaf and soddy soil, coarse sand and peat (2: 1: 1: 1). For disinfection, it is advisable to add a few pieces of charcoal to the soil mixture.
• The plant, together with the old earthen clod, is transferred to a new container and added dropwise with a fresh substrate.
• The soil under the plant is compacted and watered.

Ripsalidopsis tolerates transplantation painlessly, therefore, upon completion of work, it is immediately returned to its original place.

Reproduction methods

At home, hatiora-ripsalidopsis reproduces only vegetatively:

• cuttings- theoretically, even a single segment of the stem can serve as planting material, but for rooting, parts of shoots of 3-4 segments are usually taken. They are unscrewed by hand and dried on a warm windowsill for 3-5 days, after powdering the wound with crushed coal. After the specified time, the lower part of the cutting is treated with Epin and the prepared material is planted in a special soil for cacti, spilled with warm water. Before rooting, the cuttings are watered through the pan and only after the earth in the pot has completely dried out, they are later looked after as adult plants. If you follow all the recommendations, in a year from each modest branch you will grow a sprawling, fully flowering bush.
• Inoculation- with this method, a split trunk of perescia prickly is used as a scion. In summer, a stalk is taken from ripsalidopsis, sharpened in the lower part and inserted with a point into the split of the stock. The grafting site is bandaged with a fabric strip and the plant is arranged at a temperature of + 18 ... + 23 ° C under bright diffused light. After 15-20 days, when the graft stalk begins to produce young leaves, the bandage is removed. All new shoots growing below the grafting site must be removed.

Both methods mentioned are equally good, but grafted ripsalidopsis bloom more magnificently and more abundantly.

Possible difficulties

Of the diseases, the greatest threat to ripsalidopsis is late blight, a fungal infection, as it develops, the leaves of the miracle cactus become dull gray, wither and rot. As a treatment, the plant is shown urgent treatment with the drug "Oxyx". From chronic waterlogging of the soil and watering with cold water, the plant can get root rot, the symptoms of which are softening and browning of the stem. An affected green pet cannot be saved, but you can take several healthy shoots from it for rooting.

Sometimes novice flower growers complain about poor flowering and yellowing of ripsalidopsis. In the first case, there can be two reasons: either the pot is cramped for the plant, or the temperature regime was violated during the dormant period. Do not forget that the Easter cactus needs coolness to lay flower buds. But the yellowing of the stems usually indicates low light or the presence of pests. Examine your pet without delay and eliminate the cause of his discomfort before it is too late.

Popular types

In indoor floriculture, the most common types of ripsalidopsis are:

• Ripsalidopsis saline (Hatiora salicorniform) is a branchy miniature tree 30-40 cm high with randomly growing shoots consisting of small pin-shaped segments. For its unusual appearance, the British nicknamed this species the “dancing skeleton”. In spring, the "bony" bush is covered with small bell-shaped flowers of yellow, orange or red color.
• Ripsalidopsis pink - unlike the previous species, it has large flattened club-shaped or elliptical stem segments and large (up to 4 cm in diameter) pink bell flowers.
• Ripsalidopsis Gartner - the stems of this species consist of oblong notched segments. Scarlet-red funnel-shaped flowers reach a diameter of 5 cm.
• Ripsalidopsis Hermine is an epiphytic cactus with vertical or curved long (up to 30 cm) shoots and crimson flowers.
• Ripsalidopsis Greser is an interspecific hybrid bred with the participation of ripsalidopsis pink and ripsalidopsis Gartner. The petals of the first specimens were painted in rich burgundy-red tones, but then varieties with flowers of other shades appeared.
• Ripsalidopsis five-winged is a white-flowered compact shrub with five-sided shoot segments.

Signs and superstitions

Ripsalidopsis has been grown in pot culture since the 16th century, and during this time, in addition to admiration, it managed to gain notoriety and a couple of not-too-pleasant nicknames: “male tears”, “drunkard's dream”. Rumor has it that the Easter cactus negatively affects the representatives of the stronger sex: allegedly, with the appearance of a flower in the house, men become rude, irritable, begin to abuse alcohol and walk to the left. Do not rush to believe the rumors! If love and harmony live in the house, no, even the most exotic, plant can destroy your happiness.

Among the epiphytic cacti, there are many plants that are of interest to lovers, primarily for the high decorativeness of flowering. The most common are the Schlumberger (Schfumbergera), which we call the "Decembrist" and the so-called "Easter cactus" - ripsalidopsis (Rhipsalidopsis, now belonging to the genus Hatiora). Many hybrids have been bred from these cacti.

Schlumbergers belong to the genus Schlumbergera of the same name. Cacti from the humid mountain forests of Brazil became the birthplace of natural species that gave rise to the whole variety of modern hybrids.
The first hybrids were obtained by crossing the species Schlumbergera truncatus and Schlumbergera russelliana. Hybrids of these plants are called "Christmas cacti" in the West because of the timing of flowering close to Catholic Christmas.

Very similar to the Schlumbergers are their "compatriots" ripsalidopsis. They differ only in the shape of the flower and stems, as well as the timing of dormancy and flowering. It is about this cactus and will be discussed.

Almost all the first hybrids of these plants were obtained by crossing two species: Rhipsalidopsis rosea and Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri. These cacti are called "Easter" because they bloom by Easter - in March-May.

If your ripsalidopsis does not bloom on time (beginning of flowering from April to May), you may have made mistakes in care. The first common reason is too cool air temperature in the room where the flower is located. For the dormant period, which lasts from October-November, the plant needs 13-15 degrees, but from February it needs to be brought to a warm and bright place for laying buds. At this time, watering is increased (watering is minimal during the dormant period) and top dressing is introduced with fertilizer for cacti.

Young plants that are actively growing need to be transplanted annually to new soil. Do this after the plant has completely faded. Otherwise, he simply will not have the strength to bloom. Adults are transplanted every 2-3 years or simply sprinkled on top of fresh earth.

Overflow or lack of light can also cause a lack of flowering. Make sure that the water does not stagnate in the pan and spray ripsalidopsis daily. Only a plant full of vitality will delight you with abundant and bright flowering for several months.

Since ripsalidopsis grow in nature, where there is high humidity, the conditions for good growth and flowering must be created appropriately. In such plants, the roots are usually underdeveloped, tender, and they do not need either soil rich in organic matter or an abundance of earthen moisture - they will simply rot. Plants require rough and loose soil: coarse-grained sand with dust-free gravel, clay-soddy soil with lumps, but without remnants of grass and roots, charcoal and crushed brick without dust. Before planting, the finished soil mixture is subjected to heat treatment (steamed in the oven). For 3-4 liters of this mixture, add 1 tsp. superphosphate and 1 tsp. crushed plaster (slaked lime, chalk). For these forest cacti, soil with a slightly acidic reaction is needed - a pH of 6 to 4.5. The added superphosphate will acidify the soil.

Ripsalidopsis are transplanted immediately after flowering: late May-June. Given that the size of the root system is relatively small and they have a high need for air, the dishes should not be deep and not very large. If the roots are healthy and well developed, the size of the pot is increased by 1.5 times; if the roots are oppressed and small, the pot is not changed or a smaller one is taken. When planting, the roots are evenly distributed over the volume of the pot and carefully covered with soil. When transplanting plants, you can first deepen the stem, then slightly pull it up and finally fill it up and compact the soil by tapping the walls of the pot with your hand. From above, the soil is lightly compacted by hand. The trunk of the plant cannot be buried deep into the ground. The green part is not covered with earth at all - it will rot. Then the plant is watered and placed in a shaded place.

During flowering, ripsalidopsis is watered frequently, but so that the water does not stagnate in the pot. Excess moisture on the stems is not a hindrance to epiphytes, they love daily spraying and frequent washing with warm water (until buds appear). Ripsalidopsis are watered all year round, but during dormancy - from October to February - the intensity of watering is reduced and they are not fed. From February (during the period before flowering) to March, watering is slightly increased and 1-2 times a month, root and foliar top dressings are carried out with humus and nitrogen-containing ready-made fertilizer mixtures for forest cacti, adhering to the recommendations of the instructions. In no case do not use organic fertilizers to feed ripsalidopsis.

Ripsalidopsis, like all living things, are susceptible to diseases and pests. Most often this is expressed in the abscission and drying of plant segments. It is necessary to start examining a suspicious plant from above. Examine the segments for the presence of a light rusty coating and stripes on them. If such spots are observed, check if there are ticks on them (they are rare). Fighting mites on epiphytes is simple, just pour hot water over the segments (not boiling water).

If the segments wither and fall off in large numbers, this indicates bad roots. The roots are oppressed for several reasons:

• excess moisture and stagnant water;
• poor and depleted soil (did not transplant for a long time); c) excess organic matter, root burns with concentrated top dressings (top dressing should be carried out after watering, and not before or instead of it);
• worms appeared in the ground - white worms. In any case, you need to remove the plant from the pot, inspect the ground and roots. Remove diseased and sluggish roots, pour healthy ones with hot water (as soon as the hand endures), rinse in a dark raspberry solution of potassium permanganate, dry and plant in fresh soil. At the same time, the aerial part of the plant can be cut off a little, so that at first after the transplant it would not be difficult for the roots to feed the entire bush.

Plant segments can fall off from excessive dryness of the air, from stress received due to frequent rearrangement, and if the plant is cold.

Sometimes the people of ripsalidopsis are incorrectly called the Decembrist and are very surprised if it does not bloom in December. In fact, ripsalidopsis is very similar to Schlumbergera, which is called Decembrist and Zygocactus, but Schlumbergera has different stem segments in shape. In ripsalidopsis, the protrusions on the leaf-like segments are smoothed, rounded, almost imperceptible, but spines in the form of dense bristles at the ends of the segments are preserved. In Schlumbergera, the segments have pronounced teeth along the edges. In some and others, the segment sizes are the same, up to 3 cm wide and up to 6 cm long.

Ripsalidopsis differs from Schlumbergera not only in the structure of the stems, but also in the shape of the flowers. In ripsalidopsis, the flowers are radially symmetrical and have an even corolla. Schlumbergera has beveled rims. And the pink ripsalidopsis flowers are also fragrant.

Cacti are extremely popular indoor plants. They are very beautiful, especially during the flowering period. In nature, there are more than three thousand species. Their difference lies in the shape, size of the stems, the structure of the flowers, the presence of spines or hairs. Forest cacti grow in the tropical forests of Central and South America. Their appearance is completely different from the prickly fellows from the desert. These plants have leaf-shaped hanging stems.

1. Epiphyllums.
2. Rhipsalis.
3. Ripsalidopsis.
4. Schlumbergers.

In modern classification there are no clear distinctions and one and the same plant can often be found in different genera. And in various publications there is practically no division at all and all the names can be seen interspersed. We are interested in ripsalidopsis, so let's try to get to the bottom of the truth. Previously, experts attributed them to seven genera, but most often they called it that way or epiphilopsis.

To date, all ripsalidopsis or Easter cacti belong to the genus Gatiora.

Description

The country of origin of these plants is Brazil. They grow in hot and humid conditions, they can be seen on stumps, in hollows, in heaps of humus from the foliage. Ripsalidopsis thrive in the shade of tall trees and will suffer in direct sunlight. They do not have thick skins and spines like other cacti. This is not necessary, because it is not necessary to condense vapors from air where there is constant humidity.

Ripsalidopsis stems adapted to absorb moisture from the air, for this they develop a large number of air roots. They can at any time turn into a root system, only in contact with the nutrient medium.

If the air is saturated with moisture and there is no direct sunlight, this Easter cactus can thrive at home at temperatures of 17 to 20 degrees in summer and 15 to 17 degrees in winter. Because its fleshy stems are well adapted to store nutrients and moisture.

Under favorable conditions, ripsalidopsis form flowers at the ends of the shoots. Their color is not very diverse, but always bright and juicy. The flowers are white, pink and red in various shades. Blooming in early spring, plants delight with their beauty for about two months.

Species and varieties

There are few types and varieties of ripsalidopsis. Under natural conditions, Partner's ripsalidopsis with bright orange flowers is most common. Named for its bloom coloration, the pink species has purplish-pink flowers and a bright yellow center of stamens.

Varietal ripsalidopsis more refined beauty of flowers.

Since the flowering of ripsalidopsis begins at Easter, it is called the Easter cactus. But many confuse it with Schlumbergers, who are called Decembrists, and wait in vain for flowering in December. These plants are similar, but the shape of the stem is slightly different.

The leaf-like segments of the ripsalidopsis, the photo of which you see below, are more rounded, their shape has almost no protrusions, but spines have been preserved at the tips, more resembling thick bristles.

Schlumbergers on the edges instead of bristles have sharp teeth. The dimensions of the segments of both are the same, a maximum of 3 cm in width and 6 cm in length. The Easter cactus, like the Decembrist, grows with the formation of segments that form at the ends of the shoots and lean towards the ground.

Ripsalidopsis can be distinguished from Schlumbergers by the shape of the flowers. Ripsalidopsis produce symmetrical flowers with an even corolla, while its relative has noticeably sloping corollas. Also, the pink variety of ripsalidopsis blooms, exuding aroma.

Ripsalidopsis: care

Since plants develop in their natural environment with high air humidity, then home conditions should be created as close to natural as possible. Forest cacti have tender and underdeveloped roots, so they do not need soil rich in microelements and abundant moisture in a pot, this will have a detrimental effect.

Soil and planting

The forest cactus needs a loose coarse substrate consisting of coarse sand, dust-free crushed stone, dust-free crushed brick, clay-soddy soil with lumps without grass and roots, charcoal. Before use, the mixture is steamed in the oven, one teaspoon of superphosphate and crushed chalk or hydrated lime are added per 3-4 liters. The soil should have a slightly acidic reaction, its indicator is from 6 to 4.5. Prepared superphosphate will acidify the soil.

Home ripsalidopsis need care with an annual transplant after flowering. it takes place at the end of May, beginning of June. It should be taken into account that the root system of the plant is small and it is demanding on air, so the bowl must be selected shallow and small. From the roots, carefully remove the old earth with a brush, they are thoroughly cleaned, while preventing damage and breaking off.

The root system should be assessed for development. If they are bursting with health, then the volume of the pot can be increased by 1.5 times. A smaller size is taken for underdevelopment. During planting, the roots of the plant are evenly spread over the pot and carefully sprinkled with earth over and over again.

You can do this: first deepen the stem, then lift it up and fall asleep, tamping the substrate by tapping on the walls of the container.

Then soil is easily compacted by hand. Make sure that the green part of the plant remains uncovered, otherwise it will rot. After that, the forest cactus is watered and placed in the sun.

Watering

During the flowering period, ripsalidopsis needs abundant watering, but without stagnant water in the pot. Water can be poured directly onto the stems, excluding the flower area. They also love it when grooming includes frequent spraying and rinsing with warm water before budding.

The plant needs watering all year round, but it is reduced from October to February, as well as fertilization, since this is a dormant time. From February to March - the time of bud development - resume proper care, increasing watering. Once or twice a month supply the plant root and foliar dressings. Adhering to the instructions, use humus- and nitrogen-containing ready-made mixtures for forest cacti.

Important! Do not use organic fertilizers to feed these plants.

If care is organized correctly, then in April-May, wait for flowering. If there are a lot of branches on the bush, then a sufficient number of flowers will form. During the flowering period, tropical cactus is also protected from the sun and fed. Tell all family members that the pot with this plant during the flowering period cannot be rearranged and moved, even turning is undesirable, since it can drop all the buds. During the dormant period, a tropical cactus needs a temperature of 15-17 degrees for laying buds, as soon as the plant is about to bloom, the temperature is raised to 18-20 degrees.

reproduction

As soon as ripsalidopsis blooms, it can be propagated and transplanted, as it enters the growth band. Reproduction is very simple: you just need to wrap the segment around its own axis and it will easily break off. Then it should be dried for 3 days, after which it should be placed vertically, leaning against a stick, on moistened soil without digging.

After a while, roots will appear, after which the cutting is deepened into the ground. If the care is done correctly, you can expect several flowers already next spring.

The plant is susceptible to pests and diseases. Symptoms of undesirable conditions can be subsidence and drying of the joints. Inspection begins from above, if a rusty coating and stripes are detected, then ticks can get in. They are fought with hot water or 70% alcohol. It is enough to process the segments with one of the tools. Nothing will happen to the plant, but get rid of ticks.

Ripsalidopsis can wilt and lose a large number of segments due to poor roots. Root system suppression happens in the following cases:

• Stagnation of water and excess moisture.
• Depleted soil.
• Root burns with poorly diluted dressings. They are used only after watering.
• Appearances in the soil of worms - white worms.

With such symptoms, the plant should be removed from the pot and inspect the roots and soil. Diseased roots are removed, and healthy ones should be poured with hot water so that the hand can endure a little, remove the remnants of the earth in a solution of dark crimson manganese, dry it and plant it in a new substrate. To reduce the load on the roots of the upper part of the plant can be shortened with scissors.

The segments can fall off from a lack of air humidity, from the stress caused by the frequent rearrangement of the pot, if the plant feels cold.

After buying ripsalidopsis, a plant at home can drop all the buds due to stress. Do not be upset about this, because next year by Easter, with good care, it will give a whole firework, consisting of bright and delicate flowers.

Ripsalidopsis - Easter cactus

Ripsalidopsis (hatiora) is a small epiphytic cactus in the form of a low shrub with erect or hanging stems. In indoor floriculture, it is valued for its bright numerous flowers. Fertile soil and good drainage are most important when growing ripsalidopsis, as these plants, like most cacti, cannot stand stagnant water. A necessary condition for flowering is a dormant period in winter.

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plant description

Ripsalidopsis (Rhipsalidopsis) is a small cactus that grows as a shrub with bright flowers. In appearance, it resembles a "Decembrist" (Schlumberger). The difference between them can be seen when the flowers bloom - in Schlumbergera, the flowers have only one plane of symmetry, while in ripsalidopsis, the flowers are regular, radially symmetrical in several planes. Another name for ripsalidopsis is hatiora (Hatiora). For the first time this genus of cacti was described by botanists N. Britton and D. Rose in 1923. They gave the name to these plants in memory of the medieval English botanist Thomas Hariot, rearranging the letters in his surname. Later, in 1930, several hybrids were obtained in Europe by Alfred Grezer, and from the former name of one of the parent plants - Epiphyllopsis - the more common name Rhipsalidopsis arose.

The flowers are regular, symmetrical in shape and brightly colored: white, yellow, orange, raspberry, scarlet and pink, stay on the plant for at least 5 days, close at night. Flowering is plentiful, the entire growing season lasts - from spring to autumn. After flowering, fruits are formed.



Main types and varieties

There are five wild-growing species of ripsalidopsis:

1. 1. Rhipsalidopsis epiphilloides (ripsalidopsis epiphylloides) is a shrub with drooping shoots consisting of flattened triangular segments. The length of the segments is up to 3 cm, the width is up to 1.5 cm. The flowers are gray-yellow, up to 5 cm long. In nature, the species is rare and endangered.
2. 2. Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri (Gertner's ripsalidopsis) is a highly branched, leafless perennial shrub up to 40 cm in diameter. This species was first described in 1884. The stems consist of flattened segments up to 7 cm long and up to 2.5 cm wide. Funnel-shaped flowers, scarlet, up to 7.5 cm in diameter. The fruits are oblong, red.
3. 3. Rhipsalidopsis herminiae (Hermina's ripsalidopsis) is a rare species of cactus that grows as an upright shrub up to 30 cm high. Flowers up to 2.5 cm long and up to 2.5 cm in diameter, single or paired, of bright dark pink color. Young shoots are olive green, and old ones are brown. The stems are not ribbed, as in other species, but cylindrical, grooved, half a centimeter in diameter. Berries olive, 8 mm long, brown seeds. In culture, this is a rather finicky plant, as it is prone to shedding.
4. 4. Rhipsalidopsis rosea (pink ripsalidopsis) - a small shrub with almost rounded, 4-5-rib shoots of olive green color. Mature plants produce reddish-green, segmented and flattened stems. The segments are 4 cm long, 11 cm wide, and 3 mm thick. The flowers are bright, pink, up to 4 cm in diameter. Up to 3 of them grow at one end of the shoot.
5. 5. Rhipsalidopsis salicomioides (Rhipsalidopsis salicomioides) is a plant with narrow and long pencil-like shoots. Forms a large number of branches. On the cut, they have a rounded shape, unlike other types of hatior. Stem segments up to 3 cm long, 5 mm in diameter. There are almost no spines. The height of the bush reaches 40 cm. The color of the bell-shaped flowers is golden yellow or orange. Their size is small - up to 1 cm in diameter. The fruits are white. It is possible to grow as an ampelous culture.

Hathiora pink and Gertner, the most common in room culture, are also called "Easter" or "spring" cacti abroad, as they bloom in spring. Most of the new varieties of ripsalidopsis with different flower colors are derived from these two species. They are called Greser's ripsalidopsis. Mixes of plants planted in one pot look very nice.



Home Care

Natural species are quite whimsical plants for growing at home, unlike hybrids, which acclimatize better. To increase the resistance, pink ripsalidopsis is grafted onto another cactus - pereskia.

After the buds appear, the plants should not be moved to another place or rotated, as they can drop the flowers. The abundance of flowering depends on compliance with the temperature regime and the length of daylight hours. Some species, with proper care for ripsalidopsis, are able to bloom several times in one season.

Hatioras need good lighting, but they should be protected from direct sunlight. Under natural conditions, they also grow in partial shade under the cover of trees. The optimal location is the western and eastern windows, on which the plant will be well lit in the morning or evening. Young, recently planted or diseased plants are shaded at first, as their weak root system cannot provide moisture to the stems. Hatiors can also be grown in rooms with artificial lighting. In deep shade, the cactus will not die, but there will be no flowering.





Soil and planting

For successful cultivation of hatiora, first of all, fertile, humus-rich and well-drained soil with an acidic reaction (pH=5) is required. You can prepare the soil yourself:

• humus earth - 2-3 parts;
• perlite or other baking powder - 1 part.

Peat or manure can be added to this mixture to increase its fertility. Ready-made soil for cacti, sold in stores, is not suitable for ripsalidopsis, as it does not contain enough nutrients. To create conditions close to natural (in nature, hatiors grow on trees), the bark of deciduous, coniferous trees or peat moss is added to the soil. It is necessary to transplant plants into fresh soil every year. This is done immediately after the end of flowering, as it greatly depletes the plant. Transplantation is also a good prophylactic for preventing bacterial and fungal diseases that often affect hatiora in moist soil. The plant brought home after the store also needs to be transplanted into good soil and preventive treatment against pests and rot.

In its natural habitat, ripsalidopsis feeds on fallen tree leaves, which quickly rot in a humid subtropical environment, and on bird droppings. In winter, they are in drier and cooler conditions. Therefore, even in the southern regions, growing hatiora in open ground will lead to the fact that the plant will either die from excessive flooding with autumn rains or will not bloom.

For planting hatiora, you can use plastic or ceramic pots. Since plastic does not evaporate water, good drainage must be provided - large holes must be made at the bottom of the pot and a layer of expanded clay or gravel must be laid ¼-1/3 of the height of the container. Ceramic pots are more permeable, so when growing in them, you need to monitor the regularity of watering. In high humidity conditions and for large plant specimens, ceramic is the best choice. Plastic dishes are suitable for hanging planters in which ampelous types of ripsalidopsis are grown. For plants, it is necessary to choose deep dishes, since from the weight of the lush green mass of the stems they can tip over in flat pots.

During the active growing season, hatiors are fertilized every 2-3 weeks with complex fertilizers for cacti. Most of all, during the growth period, they require nitrogen. You can use nitroammofoska 16:16:16, using it in half the dose. During the dormant period, the plant is not fertilized. .

Temperature and watering

In summer, hatiors contain 18-29 degrees at room temperature. At temperatures above 30 degrees, the stems may wither, so in hot weather it is recommended to keep them in the shade. During the growing season, from March to September, they need regular abundant watering 2-3 times a week, but stagnant moisture is detrimental to them. Between waterings, the top layer of soil should be allowed to dry by 1-2 cm. At temperatures above 27 degrees, it is recommended to spray the stems between waterings. When carrying out daily spraying, plants can withstand a temperature of 38 degrees for several days. From October to February, watering is reduced (no more than 1 time per week). Excessive soil moisture leads to rotting of the roots and stems, as well as to the development of fungal and bacterial diseases.

In winter, plants should be kept at low temperatures, since it is under such conditions that flower buds are laid. They can be seen on the plant as early as January, but they will bloom in about 2 months. For Gertner's ripsalidopsis, it is necessary to maintain a minimum interval of 50 days with a temperature of about +10 degrees and under short day conditions. More abundant flowering can be achieved by keeping the plant at the same temperature for 70-80 days. To provide plants with coolness, they can be placed on the north window, which is not frozen by frost. Higher temperatures (over 15 degrees) and additional illumination delay the onset of a dormant period in plants and inhibit flowering. Greser's ripsalidopsis hybrids at rest are kept at a temperature of 10-12 degrees for 60-70 days. An increase in temperature to 20 degrees in winter prevents the formation of flower buds.

In ripsalidopsis, the rest period is not pronounced, the plant does not shed its aerial part, but only slows down in growth. At temperatures below 9 degrees, growth stops completely, and at 0 degrees hatiora dies.

pruning

Pruning of ripsalidopsis is carried out simultaneously with its transplantation, as this must be done before the laying of flower buds during the dormant period. If you cut the plant in the spring, then there will be no flowering.

Pruning stimulates branching of shoots that produce 3-5 new stems. Since flowering occurs only at the ends of young branches, due to pruning in the next season, you can get a profusely flowering bush. Pruning is also needed to form the correct symmetrical crown and rejuvenate the plant. Green shoots are easily broken off by hand, lignified ones are cut off with scissors or secateurs. The cut is made in the narrow neck between the stem segments. Cropped parts of the plant can be used for propagation by cuttings.

Pests and diseases

Ripsalidopsis, like many other epiphytic cacti, is subject to the following main diseases:

• Claudia rot. Black round depressions appear on the stems. When the fungus grows, a black fluff appears on the affected areas, which contains its spores. Fungi most often infect weakened plants or dormant hatiors. Sick plants are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid, Kuprozan or other antifungal agents, and also transplanted into fresh soil.
• Ervinia bacteria (soft rot) occurs when the soil is excessively waterlogged. Wet, slimy black spots appear on the plant, first in the lower part, and then they spread along the entire stem. With this disease, the hatiora must be removed completely, as it will die anyway and can infect other houseplants.
• Root rot is manifested in the fact that the stems of the plant become faded, light gray, shrivel and rot. The roots of an infected plant turn black and soften. The plant is treated with Fundazol, Zineb, Kuprozan. At a late stage of the disease, cacti die.

Ripsalidopsis pests are the following insects:

• Snails, slugs and mealybugs. If these pests are found on the plant, they must be removed.
• Root nematodes, which can be introduced into the soil from the garden from infected root crops. The affected plant is cut to preserve the species, and the remaining mother plant is removed along with the soil.
• Greenhouse thrips, scale insects and spider mites. To combat them, insecticides are used.