Frame construction step by step instructions. DIY frame houses and step by step instructions

Frame houses are very popular with developers. This is due to the fact that they are built in short terms, require a minimum Money, have excellent performance characteristics and are environmentally friendly.

If someone has a desire to start building just such a house, then in this article you can get information on how to do it. Everything is listed here in stages. At the same time, it means that all preparatory, and most importantly, organizational measures have been taken and permission has been received to build a house. What does that require?

The foundation is chosen at will and can be columnar, pile-screw, tape, etc. This article discusses an example of building a frame house with a pile-screw type of foundation.

This type of foundation is suitable for those areas where there is loose or unstable soil. This type of foundation has a number of advantages, such as:

• There is no need to involve special equipment for its construction.
• The foundation is being built in a short time: one day is enough to mount it.
• Huge selection building material(piles).
• The foundation has excellent bearing characteristics.
• This is a cheap foundation option compared to other types of foundations.
• The foundation is mounted at any time of the year.

On a note! The presence of a pile-screw foundation does not allow equipping a basement in the house. This is a significant disadvantage of this option.

How to calculate the number of piles?

Piles must have the correct geometric shape and high-quality blades. Suitable piles can be selected from the corresponding table.

On a note! In conditions where the soil is clayey, work should be carried out in dry, not rainy weather. Piles are installed strictly vertically.

In the case of using piles of large thickness, you will have to use the help of special equipment. If you choose piles of the optimal diameter, then you can do it yourself. In this case, it is much easier to determine the same level of installation of piles.

To begin with, the necessary marking is carried out on the site and the site is being prepared. It is desirable that it be horizontally even and could serve as a kind of guideline for the depth of piles.

The next step is to determine the perimeter of the future foundation. To do this, metal rods are hammered into its corners, after which a rope is pulled between them. It is necessary to check that the future foundation has right angles.

First of all, piles are installed at the corners to a depth of at least 0.5 meters. Although it all depends on the type of soil. It is better to install piles together: one screw them in, and the second controls the verticality. Having installed the piles at the corners of the building, they begin to install intermediate piles, which can be located at a distance of 0.7-1.2 meters from one another. All piles are screwed to the required depth, after which they are leveled, concreted and the heads are mounted on the piles.

For this operation, bars of 150x150 mm, 200x200 mm and 200x250 mm will fit. Before laying the beams, the tops of the piles are smeared with mastic and a couple of layers of roofing material are laid. This is the so-called waterproofing. The bars should be treated with an antiseptic.

The beams are mounted around the entire perimeter of the future building and are interconnected into half a tree, using nails 120 mm long. All joints are reinforced with corners, which are fastened with nails 50-60 mm long.

The bars are attached to the base with screws, while they fit into special heads and are well attracted by screws.

A board is laid on top of the strapping on the bars, which will block the joints of the bars. In the future, vertical racks of the future frame will be mounted on this board. The board is nailed to the beam with nails 100-120 mm long.

The draft floor is mounted on logs measuring 100 by 150 mm, installed every 0.6 meters. The logs are connected to the strapping by means of metal corners, after which a board is nailed on top of the logs.

A heater is laid in the openings between the lags, and a vapor barrier film is spread on it. After that, everything is covered with plywood. Plywood is taken thick and fastened to the logs. In order for the floor to be even, the logs must be installed in the same horizontal plane.

For mounting the frame, bars of the following sizes are taken: 100x50 mm, 150x50 mm, 200x50 mm. First of all, vertical racks are installed at the corners of the structure. They are fastened securely with reinforced metal corners. After that, proceed to the installation of the remaining racks, which are attached in the same way as the corner racks. All racks are attached to the jibs, which minimize the loosening of the structure.

The upper beam is connected at the corners by cutting, and to other vertical posts with the help of corners. For greater strength, diagonal slopes are installed.

They can be installed in three ways:

• Through cutting.
• With perforated brackets.
• With metal corners.

Alternatively, it is recommended to combine several methods at the same time. This can be a cutting option and an option to use corners. Beams are installed directly on the beam of the upper trim. Fastening can be done with self-tapping screws, but it is better to use nails, since they allow the wood to expand freely when humidity changes.

Roof installation is a rather time-consuming operation, which is worthy of a description in a separate article.

To do this, there is a wide range of facing materials on sale, such as siding, timber simulator, fake diamond etc. Work is carried out in the following order:

• At the first stage, a crate is installed from wooden beam size 40x50 mm. Crate pitch 0.6 m. Alternatively, it will metallic profile CD-60 from drywall systems.
• If the crate is made of wood, then it is desirable to cover it with an antiseptic and fire-resistant material.
• After the crate is ready, proceed to the installation of the facing material.

In the process of work, one should not forget about the insulation of a residential building. As a rule, everything is subject to insulation: floor, roof and walls. Do not forget about the vapor barrier film.

The building is almost ready, it only remains to carry out the interior decoration of the living space. Here you can take advantage of many options, especially since each room requires its own approach. And rooms such as a bathroom and a kitchen are subject to exceptional types of finishes.

Photo report of building a frame house on your own

Here you can see in stages, the construction of a frame house with your own hands on weekends.

To build modern frame houses for the most part, only 2 technologies are used: Finnish and Canadian. And if the Finnish method involves working with the entire frame of the house at once, then how to build a house according to the Canadian method? In this method, the key point is the assembly of the flooring and only then the erection of walls and work with the roof. It is on it, as more practical and rational, that we will dwell in more detail.

Step-by-step instructions for building a conventional panel house consists of the following steps.

Competent pouring of the foundation is a rather painstaking task. It is necessary to take into account the terrain on the site itself, the presence ground water and their level, seasonality of precipitation, temperature fluctuations throughout the year, and so on. The most popular in the construction of frame houses are pile or pile-grillage foundations, as well as tape foundations.

For the climate of our country, the choice in favor of a pile-grillage foundation will be the best solution. It is easy to use, durable, reliable and relatively inexpensive. In addition, it evenly distributes the weight of the house on the supports.

It is better to choose piles for such a foundation with an extended heel, as their bearing characteristics increase. You can drill holes for them manually with a drill or using automation. For formwork, they take roofing material folded in several layers, or pipes made of PVC or asbestos cement. Reinforcement bars fastened together are fastened inside the piles, and then all this is poured with concrete. After pouring, a grillage (formwork for the tape) is attached from above, into which the associated reinforcement is placed, which, in turn, is connected to the ends of the reinforcement from the piles. It is advisable to immediately leave a place for laying communications and ventilation.

Studs are necessarily attached to the foundation tape (every 1-2 m, from corners of 30 cm) - then a strapping beam will be attached to them. And then follows the general pouring of concrete (for a fortress, you can cover it with polyethylene). The foundation for the panel building is ready, with a comfortable external temperature of about 20 degrees, after 4-5 days, you can move on in construction. If the temperature is lower, you will have to wait longer - from 10 days.

Second phase. Binding, insulation, floor.

First, we make the waterproofing of the foundation, using bituminous mastic, roofing material or waterproofing. The first layer is liquid insulation, then the turn of roll insulation follows, and dry boards (beds) are attached on top, the edges of which are aligned with the height of the foundation. The second layer of boards is laid on top of the first layer to cover possible gaps.

And already strapping boards are attached to the beds - they are installed on the edge, aligned and nailed to their base. The next step will be the installation of the lag - according to the method of attachment, they resemble the installation of harnesses, they are nailed with oblique nails.

When the base for the floor is prepared, you can begin to warm it. There is various ways to insulate the floor covering, including, you can use inexpensive polystyrene foam, especially since it is not afraid of moisture. The approximate thickness of expanded polystyrene will be about 150 mm, it is laid in 2 layers to cover joints and seams. Additionally, it is recommended to walk around the perimeter with a sealant to ensure complete isolation of the surface.

After insulation, we lay a draft floor from boards and a top layer of plywood. If the plywood is large enough (more than 15 mm), then re-flooring can be dispensed with. If not, then it would be better to make another layer of boards overlapping with the first level. Our floor is ready.

When erecting walls, 2 technologies can be used - frame-panel and “balloon”. According to the first assembly of the wall frame takes place on the floor, then it is placed and fastened as a ready-made element. According to the second technology, the wall is built gradually, so to speak “in place”. The beam of the lower harness is attached, the corner posts are mounted, then the intermediate ones go, then another harness, and so on. Both that and that method are quite accessible for manual assembly.

Corner posts are selected in sizes from 100x100 to 150x150 mm, based on the total load. Intermediate racks can be smaller in thickness - up to 50 mm. The width of the gaps between the racks will depend on the selected insulation. Such racks are fastened with ordinary dowels.

Next, let's talk about cuts. If the wall is being built from durable material, you will only need mowing temporarily, while there is no sheathing on the outside. If the sheathing is type-setting, the slopes must be installed immediately and on an ongoing basis, they will give the structure the required rigidity.

Fourth stage. Overlappings.

The floor beams are usually supported by the bars of the upper trim. Ceilings can be attached to:

- corners;

- steel brackets;

- or be with a sidebar.

If the floors are fastened with a notch, then the depth of cut usually does not exceed half the thickness of the timber from the upper trim. From above, each element is fastened with 2 nails.

The dimensions of the beams are selected depending on the future number of storeys of the house. If a second floor is planned, the cross section of the beams should be large, and their installation step should be smaller. In addition, in this case, the floors will need to be covered with the subfloor of the next floor.

Fifth stage. Rafter system, roofing.

If you decide to build frame house with your own hands, then the best option the roof for it will be a gable or attic version (look at the photo)

- their designs are very similar. The only condition is to choose roofing material with low weight to wooden floors were able to withstand it.

To fasten the rafter systems, bars are nailed along the edges of the beams, and washed down in the rafters for it. We fill the crate and fix the truss systems in a certain position.

Sixth stage. Heaters.

Well-known insulation material for panel boards wooden houses is basalt wool, it is especially practical in mats - they can be easily used for insulation frame walls, they have excellent density and are more comfortable.

Mineral wool can also be used. However, for all its excellent insulating properties, it can get wet, so it should be additionally covered with a membrane.

Actually, everything. In very general terms, but you built a panel house with your own hands and you have something to be proud of. As a visual aid, we recommend watching the video below.

The construction of frame structures has long been unusually popular. There is nothing surprising in this. This method buildings are very attractive with simple technology that allows you to carry out all the work on your own, without resorting to the help of hired workers. And the materials for construction are required not too expensive and quite affordable.

However, when determining the type, one should not proceed from the mass of the building alone.

It must also be taken into account on which it is planned to erect a building. If it is clayey, heavy enough, then without a thorough, monolithic foundation unlikely to get by. If the soil has a normal sand content, then it is enough or.

If the homeowner doubts the quality of the soil for construction on his site, then he can clarify its type and composition with the local architectural bureau. Do not neglect without first making sure that you can actually do without it. The proposed construction will use natural material of wood origin. Even fully processed quality material, it is best to avoid prolonged contact with water.

There are two schemes for building a frame house:

• All activities are completely self-managed. Ready-made blocks are not used: only original building materials;
• erection of a structure from fully finished, completed blocks, which are manufactured industrially.

Consider the first, more democratic option

Scheme of nodes of a frame house: laying the foundation

The material for the roof is selected according to the preferences and capabilities of the owner of the construction site. It can be roofing material, and much more. Like others installation work, frame installation also starts from the corners.

The ends of the roof frame are securely attached to the floor joists. The roof is usually in the shape of an isosceles triangle. The distance between the rafters corresponds to the width of the material that is supposed to be used as insulation or coating.

It is convenient to assemble the roof frame on the surface of the earth, and then lift it up and install it on the house.

Sheathing a frame house with your own hands

Cover options may vary. This and more. A durable, waterproof material is laid under the sheathing with a margin of 20-30 cm.

The walls are upholstered with the selected material, then the roof, windows and doors are inserted. The floors are laid last. The boards are hemmed under the laid logs, all the gaps formed between the boards and the logs are filled with insulation.

If there is such an opportunity, then it is better to make the floor insulation two-layer.

First, a layer of foam, followed by mineral wool. When all the insulation is laid out, the floorboards are laid. They are placed perpendicular to the lags. For greater evenness and smoothness of the floor, you can finish it on top OSB boards or sheets of plywood i. This is a rather complicated process, so before starting work, you should carefully study the technology. Who is not well versed in construction work, may not immediately understand what kind of nodes they are.

These are important junctions of individual structural elements buildings. The most responsible among them are floors, walls and roofing system. Each of the indicated main nodes in its own design also has a certain number of nodal connections.

Let's list them in order, from the bottom of the structure to the top:

• in corner joints, this is the joining of the lower trim to each other; fastening to the surface of the foundation of the lower trim, consisting of a bar;
• installation of vertical racks: first, corner racks are installed, and only then the remaining ones;
• reliable fixation of the upper strapping, consisting of a bar;
• connections that serve to securely fix the structure of the frame itself both in vertical and horizontal planes: this guarantees its rigidity and stability;
• fastening the ceiling beams to the strapping of the timber at the top.

Connections of the main elements of the roof to each other:

• top strapping and;
• the rafters themselves at the very top, in the ridge zone;
• and rafters;
• rafters and counter-lattices;
• rafters and battens

All designated nodes are load-bearing, as they are responsible for the reliability and strength of the entire structure. Secondary nodes should also not be overlooked, they are no less important for the stability of the structure. These are interfloor ceilings and logs. As a verified connection individual elements buildings use special fasteners.

Frame construction in recent times is rapidly gaining momentum. It has become especially popular among private developers. It should be noted that in Canada this Government program. In Russia - the solution housing problem on their own. Frame construction makes it possible to build a house in a short time with a minimum investment.

If we consider in detail - a frame house is:

• lower and upper trim, fastened with vertical posts, which form a frame for the subsequent installation of walls - both internal and external;
• base made of timber attic space, consisting of bearing beams and sexes;
• timber truss system, on which the roofing material is mounted - it should not be too heavy;
• depending on the region of construction, the appropriate insulation material is laid between the frame elements.

Important! the thickness of the insulator must correspond to the distance between the wall sheathing.

The frame is sheathed on both sides with moisture-resistant material.

You can build a frame house on your own, without having a special building education. To do this, you do not need a specialized tool, just study the technology and be patient, following all the steps in the construction strictly according to the instructions.

Canadian technology house - pros and cons

The frame structure has many positive aspects, for example:

1. Cost - if calculated per square meters, it is the lowest, which makes this technology popular all over the world.
2. Construction speed - a team of three people can build a house in just 1 month, provided that the foundation for the building has already been laid. The entire structure will be ready in 2 months - along with interior decoration.
3. Low heat capacity and thermal conductivity - modern heat insulators help create comfortable conditions for living - both in summer and in winter. In addition, the frame structure saves thermal energy- it is enough to heat only those rooms that are needed at the moment.
4. Aesthetics - already in the process of construction, it is possible to carry out all the necessary communications within the walls, “brick up” the electrical cable and wiring, and mount the ventilation system.
5. There is no need to build a recessed base, since the weight of the frame structure is small.
6. There is no need to give the building time to shrink. During the construction of the frame structure, dry materials are used that will not shrink later.
7. Environmental friendliness - only natural materials that comply with sanitary standards and are safe for humans.
8. Simplicity of finishing inside the building - the wall is sheathed with modern slab materials that do not need plastering, which significantly reduces the time spent on finishing.
9. Resistance to temperature extremes - it is worth noting that the frame structure is a kind of thermos that retains heat. Such a structure can be heated periodically.
10. Seismic resistance - this design can withstand vibrations up to 9 points.
11. Construction can be carried out at any time. Even the foundation can be equipped with a pile-screw.
12. Simplicity of erection - for construction it is not necessary to use heavy equipment, a small construction team is enough.
13. Microclimate - building materials are natural, they "breathe", so a certain microclimate is created in the room.

But if you do not talk about the disadvantages of frame structures, the picture will be incomplete:

• quick flammability - in a few minutes the frame structure burns out completely, even the walls do not remain;
• the danger of fungus and mold - in the climatic zones where they go frequent rains, dampness can appear in any design. In a house built on a frame
• technology, this indicator is very high, therefore, even during construction, it is necessary to accurately calculate the “dew point”;
• low sound insulation is, of course, a significant drawback, but it can be eliminated by laying special soundproofing material in the walls;
• difficulty interior decoration- the inability to hang heavy objects on the walls, if mortgages are not foreseen in advance.

But if you approach the construction with all responsibility, then you can eliminate the shortcomings, for example, observe safety precautions and treat the structure with various antiseptic impregnations.

Foundation for a frame house

In order for the foundation to be strong and serve for many years, you need to choose the right type of foundation. What to consider:

1. The type of soil on the site.
2. The height of the groundwater.
3. Building weight.
4. Seasonality of residence.
5. The region in which the house is planned to be built.
6. Wind and snow loads.

Most often under frame building equip the following types of bases:

• pile;
• pile-grillage;
• tape shallow.

In Russia, a pile-grillage foundation is most often equipped for frame structures. This is one of the types of prefabricated bases that do not require large financial investments. If you correctly calculate the load and build a structure, strictly adhering to the technology, then it will last a very long time.

Important! If you doubt the reliability of the design, apply the TISE technology. Piles have an extended heel, due to which load bearing capacity base is multiplied. In addition, the design will steadfastly resist the forces of heaving of the soil.

Piling wells can be drilled either manually or motorized. At the bottom of each hole, it is necessary to equip a sand cushion, for this:

1. The bottom of the well is well tamped, after spilling it with water;
2. Pour gravel-sand mixture - 15-20 cm;
3. Spill it with water and tamp;
4. Fill with concrete, about 15 cm.

The pillow is ready.

As formwork, you can use:

• The walls of the well, if the soil is dense and not prone to shedding. Just before pouring concrete, you need to equip the waterproofing.
• Roofing felt - a pipe of the desired diameter is twisted from it, which is fastened with metallized tape. The material is twisted in at least 4 rows.
• Asbestos-cement pipes are a simpler, but more expensive option.
• PVC pipes - can be purchased at any hardware store.

To strengthen the bearing capacity of the foundation, it is necessary to reinforce the piles, for this:

1. Prepare reinforcement with a section of 16 mm - for the main frame, with a diameter of 10 mm - for strapping.
2. Cut the warp rods right size, not forgetting that they should be 80 cm above ground level. This is necessary in order to subsequently tie the grillage reinforcement.
3. Prepare items for tying.
4. Build a triangular structure from the main reinforcement, connecting it with strapping elements with a step of 40 cm.
5. Lower the finished structure into the shaft strictly vertically.

Everything is ready - you can pour concrete, grades not lower than M250.

Once the concrete has set, formwork can be installed for the grillage, which can be recessed, elevated or hanging. For the arrangement of the structure, ready-made plywood panels are used, they are built directly in place from a board, 40 mm thick.

Waterproofing is laid in the formwork, reinforcement is carried out. The longitudinal bars of the frame are connected to the outlets from the piles. In the tape, you need to equip holes for communications and ventilation system- for this it is enough to install pipe sections.

You also need to prepare studs to secure the strapping beam. Elements should be installed with an indent from the corners of 30 cm, then the step is 1-2 meters. It must be remembered that it is the studs that will connect the base of the house to the foundation, so the more often they are installed, the stronger the structure.

Important! No matter how long the wall is, at least two studs are installed for it.

The next step is to pour the concrete. In order for the structure to gain the required strength and not crack, it should be covered with polyethylene or roofing felt. Further work will begin in a week, provided that the air temperature is not lower than +20 degrees. At lower temperatures, you will have to wait longer. The main condition is that concrete must gain at least 50% of its strength.

Bottom harness and floor

Wood tends to absorb moisture, and so that it does not take it from concrete, it is necessary to equip high-quality waterproofing. You can apply the same roofing material or bituminous mastic in two layers, which is more reliable, since the roofing material can become brittle over time. When insulating work, you need to take into account the location of groundwater - the closer they are, the more layers you need to equip.

The next step is the strapping, which is done in the following way:

1. For beds, prepare boards 150x50 mm in size, they must be dry and impregnated with wired compounds;
2. The boards are aligned along the outer edge of the base;
3. Drill holes for the studs, which should be larger in diameter, by about 2-3 mm;
4. Lay the first row of boards;
5. The second row of material is arranged in such a way that the joint of the boards of the first row falls in the middle of the board of the second;
6. Knock the boards together with nails in 20 cm increments in a checkerboard pattern.

Advice! For strapping, you can use a beam 150x100, but its cost is much higher, and the boards assembled in this way have a large bearing capacity.

We put the harness and lags

• Take boards 150x50 in size, which should be installed on the edge with alignment along the outer edge of the base along the perimeter of the building. Nail them with 200 mm nails to the bed, the fastening step is 40 cm.
• The logs are mounted from the same board, placed on the edge and fixed with 90 mm nails, drive two nails from both sides into the end of each board. Fasteners should be driven in obliquely.
• The first board is installed at a distance of 40 cm from the strapping, the subsequent elements are installed at the same distance, but it should be understood that the longer the board, the smaller the distance between the lags.

Important! If the logs are very long, then a transverse beam is equipped, on which jumpers are nailed so that the structure stands firmly.

Insulation and flooring

Once the lag structure is built, you can begin to equip the subfloor. It can be built from a board, 250 mm thick. To do this, slats 5x5 cm are stuffed on the logs along the lower edge, on which elements of the desired length are laid. Nail each piece of board with 4 nails, 2 on each edge.

The rough coating is ready, you can start warming. For this, foam is used - it is environmentally friendly, cheap and moisture resistant. The thickness of the insulation in this situation should be 15 cm. To do this, lay the first layer of 10 cm. All cracks and gaps must be foamed. The second row is laid in a checkerboard pattern, the material is 5 cm thick.

It is worth talking about foam, which has many advantages:

• light;
• easy to install - cut with a hacksaw or utility knife;
• eco-friendly;
• inexpensive;
• has a long service life;
• a layer thickness of 15 cm is able to keep heat like an ordinary brick wall.

After that, you can lay the finishing floor, on which the floor covering will subsequently be mounted. The floor can be equipped with plywood 15 mm thick or OSB 12 mm thick, in 2 layers. It is worth noting that OSB is cheaper, so this material is preferred by many private developers.

Sheets are stacked in a checkerboard pattern, while between the sheets it is worth leaving a gap of 3 mm to compensate, since the material can change its volume from changes in humidity.
The plates are fastened with self-tapping screws, 35 mm long, along the seams with a step of 12 cm, along the perimeter of the sheet 25 cm in a checkerboard pattern.

wall construction

There are two ways to mount walls:

Frame-panel option:

1. Assemble the frame of the walls on the floor - you can do it all at once, you can do it in parts;
2. Sheathe the frame from the outside with OSB or GVL boards;
3. Raise the elements, set the level strictly vertically - fix.

This assembly principle is used by factories - panels are assembled in the workshops according to a specific project, which are then delivered to construction site and mounted on a finished foundation with strapping. Also, frame-panel technology can be used in the construction of a house structure with your own hands.

Method - balloon:

1. To bottom harness a timber 100x100 or 150x150 is attached along the perimeter, depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation, the step of each element should be no more than 120 mm - this is the width of the sheathing plate;
2. Install intermediate racks at a distance of 60 cm, that is, in the middle of the main ones, their thickness should not be less than 50 mm;
3. The upper trim is constructed from a bar or board, similar to the lower one;
4. Sheathe the frame of the walls from the outside - the pitch of the screws at the seams: 12-15 cm;
5. Lay the insulation, foam all the cracks and seams;
6. Sheathe the frame with inside.

Which method to choose, the developer decides. But it directly depends on how many people work at the construction site. If it is possible to invite several people to help, at least occasionally, then assembly on the floor is much more reliable and easier.

Installation and section of racks

Corner rack elements - timber 150x150 mm or 100x100 mm. It is worth noting that it all depends on the load, for example, for a one-story building, 10 cm is enough, for a two-story building - 15 cm and above.

There are several ways to mount racks:

• on wooden dowels;
• cutting;
• on steel corners.

The method of installation on dowels is old and complicated:

1. You must first prepare dowels from dry wood of the desired diameter.
2. Then drill holes obliquely through the lower trim bar and the rack.
3. Hammer the dowel into the prepared hole, and saw off the protruding ends.

It is worth mentioning right away that this method is reliable only if the material is dried well. In the case of raw wood, it dries out, the wooden spike will also dry out, and the rigidity of the fastening will be lost.

cutting made in the lower strapping, and you can choose only 50% of the depth of the timber.

The easiest way - steel corners, which are installed on both sides of the racks and screwed with self-tapping screws, 3-5 pieces on each side of the corner, depending on the load.

Likewise, during construction Canadian technology, beams for doors and windows should be double, since the load on these structures is very large and reinforcement is necessary.

Bevels or braces

These elements are necessary if the frame of the walls of the house is assembled on the spot. The slopes can be temporary - from the inside of the walls, if it is supposed to sheathe the frame with any slab material. These elements are needed in order to set the racks in a strictly vertical position and fix them until the sheathing is completed. After that, the cuttings are removed.

When using type-setting, for example, lining, it is necessary to install permanent braces. They are installed on each pair of racks of 4 pieces - 2 at the top and bottom. It is worth not neglecting this rule, since in the process of sheathing the racks can “float” and the geometry will be broken.

Advice! To reduce construction costs, you can apply the technology of prefabricated racks, which are assembled from two boards. To do this, they need to be knocked down with nails in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 20 cm. Of course, it will take more time to build, since each rack will have to be assembled separately, but the bearing capacity of these elements is many times higher.

Frame house corners

Arrangement of corners raises many questions. If you install the rack bar directly at the corner, then installation can be done without problems, but in this case it will be cold. For areas with a mild climate, this is not a problem. But in middle lane Russian winters are cold, and corner elements need additional insulation.

There are two options for solving the problem:

1. Install the racks at a distance of 15-20 cm from the corner, then there will be a gap between the frame sheathing and the beam, which is insulated with an insulator.
2. Install 2 racks at the corners at a distance of 10-15 cm, depending on the thickness of the heat insulator.

In addition, it is possible to insulate the structure again when installing the facing material, then the house will not only be warm, but will also acquire an aesthetic appearance.

overlap

Beams are fixed to the upper harness in three ways:

1. On steel support brackets;
2. On steel corners;
3. With inset.

The installation step of the beam structure and the size of the elements directly depend on what is planned to be done from above. If it is intended to equip attic floor, then in order for the floor not to sag, the section of the beams is taken to be the maximum, and the step between them is reduced to 40 cm. If there is just an attic and a roof on top, then you can increase the step to 60 cm, and equip the beams with a section of 100x100.

If it is planned to build a second floor, then the beams are taken 150x150, a draft floor is mounted on them - it will be easier to work with the walls of the second floor. The assembly of the structure itself is carried out similarly to that used in the construction of the first floor, but with the difference that the wall frame structure will have to be dragged to the second floor.

Rafter system and roofing material

Often when building a house frame technology use two types truss system:

1. gable;
2. Attic.

The difference in their arrangement is small, it is enough to correctly calculate the material. But in the case of frame structures, there is a limitation on the weight of the roofing material - it must be light, otherwise wooden beams may not be able to withstand heavy loads.

Warming

To insulate the frame structure, you can use any of the known insulators that meet the characteristics and requirements for thermal insulation:

• Mineral wool - meets all the requirements, but it is worth remembering that this material is not moisture resistant and, when wet, can lose its insulating properties by 30-50%. To prevent such consequences, it is necessary to equip high-quality vapor barrier.
• Styrofoam is the most inexpensive and sought-after insulation that does not absorb moisture, does not sag, and keeps heat well.
• Basalt wool is a natural insulator that can be purchased both in rolls and in mats.
• Expanded polystyrene is almost the same polystyrene, but its fraction is much smaller. The material meets all sanitary standards, does not absorb moisture, keeps heat well. The only drawback is that direct sunlight destroys the material.

Important! When choosing the size of the insulating material, it is worth remembering that the plates should be 2-4 cm larger than the gaps between the posts, so that when installing the insulator there are no unwanted cold bridges.

The choice of insulating material depends on the financial possibilities and the region of construction, but it is better not to save on insulation, since it depends on how much money you will spend on heating the room.

Finally

Using the tips and step-by-step instructions described above, anyone can assemble a frame structure on their own, without resorting to the help of professional builders. Houses based on Canadian technology are assembled in a short time and are inexpensive, which made them so popular with private developers.

Frame housing construction has been a leader in the domestic market for several years now. A building built according to Canadian technology will be not only economical, but also reliable, the main thing is to follow all the stages of building a frame house.

Why frame construction is gaining popularity

Based on such a criterion as cost-quality, the technology for erecting frame houses, which is shown in the photo and video, has an undoubted advantage and therefore is gaining momentum in our country. To the virtues frame construction can include the following:

• Low cost home.
• Small time costs for construction, as a team of 3 people can build a house from foundation to finish in 2 months.
• Good performance, saving money on building maintenance.
• Frame technology makes it possible to mount communications inside the walls, which is a feature of this type of house.
• Building a house does not require a strong foundation.
• Work can be carried out at any temperature.
• During the construction process, you will not have to use heavy equipment, since all elements of the house are relatively light in weight and can be moved and assembled by three people.
• The frame house is characterized by high seismic resistance.
• Long service life - the average service life is about 80 years.

Having considered all the advantages of frame houses, we learn how phased construction frame house and what types of foundation are there to choose the most optimal for your house.

Foundation varieties

The technology for building such a house is quite simple, but it is somewhat different from other varieties. If you already have a project ready and agreed with the relevant authorities, then it's time to start the first stage of construction.

The foundation for a house built using frame technology can be piled, columnar, slab or tape, each of them has its own characteristics. It is advisable, before settling on some type of foundation, to view photos and videos of its construction in order to understand the process itself.

Column Foundation

This type of foundation is the most attractive in terms of cost, and it is quite suitable for a frame house. The foundation is columns made of ready-made blocks, on which the future housing will actually be placed.

Previously, under the future pillars, you need to make recesses according to the drawing, level the ground and arrange a sand cushion. The sand must be leveled, spilled with water and compacted. After that install on cement mortar the blocks themselves, and lay a layer of roofing material on top.

pile foundation

This type of foundation is considered to be universal, it is suitable for any type of soil. It is a metal support screwed into the ground, which looks like huge screws with threads and sharpening at the end. Video and photos of such a foundation are attached.

Both the pile foundation and the column foundation will subsequently require a pick-up device. The fence is arranged between pillars or piles in order to protect the underground space from cold and water. It can be made of boards or by brickwork.

Tape monolithic foundation

The only drawback of the strip foundation is that it is unreasonably expensive for this type of construction, since there is no need to build such a reinforced base for a frame house, although, judging by the photo, this method is also in demand.

brick foundation

The traditional type of foundation, which is a conventional brickwork in one form or another. This is a rather expensive foundation, and its reliability is slightly exaggerated. Such a foundation is rarely performed, especially for frame construction, as it is considered an obsolete variety. A photo or video of how to lay it can also be viewed on the site.

Strapping and floors

The phased construction of a frame house involves the implementation of strapping. A layer of waterproofing material is laid on the foundation, and then a series of beams are mounted, which are located around the entire perimeter, and, in addition, where it is planned to build load-bearing interior walls. A prerequisite - before laying the timber, it must be carefully treated with an antiseptic. There are two ways to fix the bars of the lower trim:

• anchor bolts.
• on metal vertical pins, which are laid in the process of pouring concrete.

After completing the strapping process, we proceed to the installation of the floor beams and the installation of the vertical racks of the frame. As beams, you can use a beam with a section of 10x10 cm or a board 5-6 cm thick and 15 cm wide.

The beams are laid in increments of 60–70 cm. After that, a rough floor is laid from an unedged board. If you want to make a warm floor, then logs are laid on the rough flooring and an insulating layer is made between them. mineral wool, expanded polystyrene or expanded clay gravel, after laying the waterproofing material. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film and the finishing coating is installed from a tongue-and-groove floor lath, laminate, parquet or ceramic tiles. The technology of these processes can also be viewed on the video.

Wall assembly

The lower trim, made of timber, should have grooves every 50 cm. Be sure to make sure that the dimensions of the groove correspond to the dimensions cross section vertical frame element. After the installation of all vertical racks, it will be necessary to proceed to the installation of the upper trim, which is also made of a small section beam or a thick board.

All vertical racks of the frame are temporarily unfastened by two side braces, which are fastened with self-tapping screws to the bottom trim and to the vertical rack. For jibs use any boards or bars. You can even take long poles with which you can fix several racks at once.

Vertical frame elements are installed not only for external walls, but also for interior ones, at the same time designating future door and window openings.

After all the vertical elements are exposed, the top trim is made. To do this, grooves are cut in the bars or boards for each rack. Therefore, it is necessary to observe maximum accuracy when marking and cutting grooves. The bar of the upper harness is attached to the vertical posts metal corners or regular nails. To give greater rigidity to the frame, permanent struts and struts are installed instead of temporary ones.

The walls can be ready-made factory panels with insulation inside or made independently. In this case, boards are sewn onto the frame, vapor and waterproofing, a layer of insulation are laid, again a layer of hydro and vapor barrier, and all this is again sewn up with boards. It turns out that the frame elements remain inside the walls. This is a fairly simple method, but most often they use ready-made sandwich panels.

Installation of ceiling beams

The construction of ceiling beams is carried out using a beam, with a section size of 15 × 15 cm. They are fixed above the vertical posts so that the entire load is transferred precisely to the posts, and not to the beam between them. Fastening is carried out using perforated steel brackets and corners, using the method of cutting grooves and nails.

During the construction of frame houses, all openings should be made immediately, that is, door and window frames must be made so that doors and windows can be inserted after completion of work. If you decide to do it yourself, then view the photo or video so as not to violate the technology.

Roof and frame cladding

The construction of the frame house is completed by the installation of the roof. The roof structure consists of a truss system and a roof. First you need to make temporary ladders along which you can safely move around. Boards with a thickness of at least 5 cm are laid on the upper harness of the house so that they can withstand the weight of a person. The boards are temporarily nailed to the top strapping element.

Initially, rafters are mounted, for which the ends of the bars are connected at an angle that determines the selected roof slope. Rafter legs are installed in increments of 60–70 cm. Temporary is done using jibs. After all the rafters are installed, ridge boards are nailed on top of them on both sides.

The next step is the roof sheathing, the laying of thermal insulation, as well as the flooring of the roofing material, which is selected based on one's own financial capabilities. Depending on the type of roofing material, the lathing is sparse or solid.

Outside, the frame house can be additionally insulated or simply finished. decorative material- vinyl or metal siding, plastered, lined ceramic tiles or lined with clapboard. But in any case, a vapor and windproof membrane should be laid under the finish.

The construction of houses using frame technology is not only a fast, but also a profitable process, especially if all building codes and rules are observed, with the involvement of professionals who are guided not only by photos, but also by their knowledge.