How to prepare grapes for wintering. Proper preparation of grapes for winter in the middle lane

Grapes have long been successfully grown not only in the south, but also in the north of our country. The key to harvest is the proper preparation of the vine for winter.

Step 1 for sheltering grapes: Remove all crop from the vines

The last bunches of mid-ripening grapes should be harvested by early October. An overloaded vine spends a large supply nutrients on the fruits to the detriment of the shoots, as a result of which it does not have time to ripen.

before shelter, all grapes from the vines must be removed

Professional tricks
To harden vine bushes and accelerate the ripening of the vine, you can use an interesting method used by experienced growers. With a sharp blow of a metal scrap at a distance of about 10-15 cm from the head of the bush, break through the soil and break the integrity of the surface roots. Spraying the bush with potassium monophosphate (15 g per 10 l of water) also contributes to this.

Step 2 to cover the grapes: carry out a moisture recharge watering of the grapes

From mid-September to October, the grapes must be watered. The root system of the plant consumes moisture until the soil freezes. The earth must be saturated with moisture to a great depth. To prevent water from spreading, make an earthen roller with a radius of 50-70 cm. In winter, water will rise through the soil pores in the form of water vapor, and its heat will warm the soil and the roots of the plant. In addition, insufficient autumn watering can cause a delay in the spring growth of grapes.

Step 3 to cover the grapes: remove the vines from the trellis and trim the grapes

Pruning is carried out every autumn, otherwise the grapes grow strongly, and the berries become smaller. Works are carried out to a temperature of -3 ° C,
at lower temperatures the vine becomes brittle. First of all, cut out all the weak and fruitful shoots this year, as well as all the green, unripened part of the shoots and the leaves remaining after leaf fall. At the same time, cut cuttings from the ripened part of the vine for spring rooting.
mature vine Brown color, with a slight frost, it is warm to the touch, when bent it creates a characteristic crack, but does not break.

pruning of grape vines is carried out in the fall, since pruning in early spring will lead to the flow of juice

Step 4 for sheltering grapes: tie and secure the cut vines

Tie the vines into tight bundles (fascines) and press them to the ground with ropes or staples at a level of 10-20 cm above the ground. Under the shoots, lay boards or dry spruce branches in advance.

These operations are carried out at a positive temperature so that fragile branches do not break.

Vine shelter step 5: Spray the vineyard for disease

Spray the vines with 3-5% ferrous sulfate (300-500 g per 10 liters of water), for "youth" use a lower concentration. Iron vitriol is the simplest fungicide used in autumn to protect vines and eyes from mold in winter and to kill pathogens.

before shelter, grapes are treated for diseases

Step 6 for sheltering grapes: cover the vines

Don't rush to cover an adult vine, she is not afraid of the first frosts, they will only affect green leaves and shoots, and woody ones will only harden. They begin to cover the grapes on a dry day in the second half of October, when the first frosts with a temperature of -5 ... -7 ° C have already been noted, but constant negative temperatures have not yet been established.
The air-dry method is better suited for sheltering grapes. It creates an optimal mode of heat and dryness for grapes, eliminates freezing and damping. When covering the grapes, you need to take care that the whole bush is “under the fur coat”, not only the vine, but also the roots.

An ideal option for sheltering grapes in the Moscow region and to the north: air-dry

How to prune grapes?

In the conditions of northern viticulture, the most popular grape formations are fanless stemless. Several fruit links are fan-shaped on a vertical trellis. This method was developed at the end of the 20th century by Dmitry Kharitonovich Tokarev, a wine grower, a member of the MOIP, and is perfectly used, especially in small summer cottages.
First year. In the spring, the annual shoot is tied up horizontally. In autumn, 2 shoots are left, the rest are cut out.
Second year. In the spring, last year's shoots are tied horizontally to create sleeves. In autumn, the first shoot from the base is left on one sleeve, and the last on the second. In varieties that bear fruit well with short pruning, 4-5 eyes are left on each shoot; in well-bearing with medium pruning - 6-8 eyes.
Third year. In the spring, last year's shoots are tied up horizontally: with short pruning towards each other, with medium pruning, both shoots are in the same direction. In autumn, in varieties with short pruning, the first shoots from the base are left; in varieties with medium pruning, the first shoot is left on one sleeve, and the last on the other.

The annual preparation of grapes for winter includes several procedures - providing conditions for the full maturation of the vine, pruning, top dressing, watering, protection from diseases and pests. The further health and immunity of the vineyard will depend on how correctly and on time such care is provided.

Conditions for a successful winter

In winter, the grape bush should go with a well-ripened vine, otherwise there is a high risk of freezing of the aerial part. You can determine the maturity of the vine by the characteristic straw color, hardness, cod when bending, but not broken. Even during the period of frost, the ripened vine remains warm, unlike the unripened one.

Before covering the vineyard, it is necessary to carry out several activities that will contribute to the high-quality ripening of the shoots:

normalization of the load of bushes, shoots, as well as thinning during the growing season;
pasynkovanie and pruning unnecessary leaves;
root and foliar top dressing;
treatments for diseases and pests;
compliance with irrigation schemes and norms.

Watering

Before sheltering the grapes for the winter, water-charging irrigation should be carried out, which will provide the bushes with good winter hardiness and protection from freezing. On dry soil, frosts quickly penetrate deep and contribute to injury to the root system.

It is watered into specially prepared holes - 2-3 holes are dug to a depth of up to 25 cm. Consumption per adult bush is 5-6 buckets, a seedling is 4 buckets. The second option is moistening along trenches that are dug out to lay each vine for the winter.

If the autumn turned out to be rainy, and the vineyard grows on loose soil, there is no need for pre-winter watering.

Moisture-charging irrigation will provide bushes with protection from freezing

top dressing

At the end of the growing season, after harvesting, it is fed. A balanced diet helps restore plant strength and prepare for the next fruiting season.

Nutrition in the fall is carried out in two stages.

The first fertilizer is applied in early September to speed up the ripening process of the vine and prepare the bushes for wintering. For 1 sq. m. vineyard use 1 tsp. potassium salt and 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate. Nutrient components can be a good addition to the first top dressing: boric acid, manganese sulfate and zinc sulfate - 2 g each. If the soil is sandy, then potassium iodine is added to the general composition - 1 g.
In late autumn, a second feeding is carried out, which increases the immunity of plants from various diseases, pests and winter cold. For 1 sq. m contribute 25 g of phosphorus and potassium. Additionally, the near-stem zone is shed with a solution of wood ash - 300 g of the substance is dissolved in a bucket of water. Under each plant pour 10 liters of nutrient solution.

Top dressing is combined with watering to improve the absorption of nutrients by the roots in winter. After each top dressing, the soil in the near-trunk zone is mulched with compost, last year's manure, peat or garden soil.

Subtleties of pre-winter pruning

Before sheltering the grapes for the winter, winter pruning is carried out. But not everywhere - mainly in the regions of sheltered viticulture. Properly trimmed bushes are easier to cover and provide them with good protection from the winter cold.

General rules

During pruning, several important rules should be observed:

all cuts should face the inside of the plant;
young non-fruiting growth is removed on the ring;
replacement knots are left on the bush, close to the trunk;
after cutting, all shoots are removed from the site and burned to prevent the appearance of infections and pests;
before covering the grapes in winter, they additionally remove all disease-damaged and too old branches.

In the process of pruning the shoots, small stumps are left - from 1 to 1.5 cm in length for better and faster healing of wounds. The timing of pruning in each region is different and depends on climatic and weather conditions.

Scheme

In order for the bush to bear fruit abundantly and annually, during the autumn pruning it is important to determine the number of sleeves - the strongest and thickest ones are left. Make sure that the load on the bush is even on both sides of the trellis. Usually, the replacement of fruiting sleeves is carried out no more than once every eight years. As a substitute material, young shoots are used, as well as shoots formed in the trunk area.

Depending on the variety, the laying of fruitful buds is different - in some plants they form from 3-4 buds, in others - from 7-8, and in others - from 12-15. Therefore, short pruning is carried out on 2-4 buds, medium - on 5-8, long - on 12-16 buds.

Based on this, the average number of eyes per bush is determined:

for the young - 10-20;
medium - 20-40;
adult fruiting bush - 40-60.

Pruning seedlings

Pruning of grown bushes (3-4 years old) is carried out taking into account the necessary formation of the bush. The above scheme is applied for adult fruit-bearing plants.

pasynkovanie

The first stepping procedure is carried out in the spring about a month after the start of the growing season, when 3-4 pairs of young leaves appear on the side branches.

Young shoots are pinched, leaving the lower part with 2-3 leaves.

In summer, stepchildren of the second order can form on the side lashes, they need to be completely plucked off, because. they will not become full-fledged fruitful vines and will inhibit the growth and development of the main side shoots.

Also, young growth, which is formed in the area of \u200b\u200bvine brushes, is subject to removal. The plant will get more access to light and air. This procedure simplifies the access of insects to the inflorescences, which improves the quality of pollination of the bushes.

A month before harvest, some growers pinch off the leaves around each bunch, as well as at the bottom of the bush, which speeds up the process of pouring and ripening berries.

On bushes that regularly stepchild, fruitful vines ripen better, because they receive the maximum amount of nutrients.

Protection against diseases and pests

After graduation preparatory work bushes can be closed. Growers use several ways to shelter grapes for the winter.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Hilling. This method of warming is suitable for young plants - 1-2 years old. An earthen mound 15-20 cm high is made above the seedling.
Half cover. It is used to protect the near-stem zone of adult plants. The bases of the shoots, sleeves and the central part of the grapes are covered with straw or agrofibre.
Full cover of grapes. Such insulation is carried out as follows: first, the vine is cut, tilted to the ground, then covered with film material or agrofiber. Sprinkle soil on top. So that the shoots do not rot and become moldy, several holes are made in the fabric for oxygen to enter.

Grapes should be closed before the first frost in the fall.

After all, it is necessary to take into account the mass important nuances, among which pruning and shelter mean a lot. It depends on how the shoots will feel in the spring and their yield.

Why grapes need to be protected in winter

Frost, piercing cold, sharp fluctuations in temperature are very dangerous for grapes. A plant without proper preparation for winter in some regions may die. The most dangerous cold season for bushes planted in open ground and not to school. Before harsh winters, seedlings should be properly hidden so that next year you can enjoy a rich harvest of berries and juicy, healthy leaves, from which you can cook delicious dolma.

It is important to remember that you need to cover:

unstable berry varieties;
hybrid forms;
young seedlings;
complex-resistant bushes.

Some varieties of grapes are frost tolerant. However, they also need to be properly prepared for the winter, taking into account some peculiarities of the climate in the regions.

Proper preparation of grapes for wintering: basic recommendations

Harvesting vines for the winter period has several features and conditions. It needs to be done in the fall. The main thing that needs to be done is the correct pruning of the plant. Bushes will need to be bent to ground level and thoroughly cover the grapes. Pruning is also acceptable in the spring months.

Note! Pruning seedlings in the fall is the most rational, as this time allows you to reduce the size of the plantation and helps to make it easier to bend down to the ground.

In spring, cut vines can sap, which in turn will cause a weakening of the crop and a decrease in yield levels.

Preparation of culture in the Urals

In the Urals, there are some subtleties of preparing grapes for harsh winters. In these regions, pruning with a fruit arrow and a replacement knot is not allowed, because climatic conditions have a lot of features. Already in March, there are sharp jumps in temperature, which leads to a halt in the development of the first buds.

Here you need to remove all stepchildren and shoots up to the part that is lignified. You can leave a maximum of 12 kidneys. In the first year, cutting the bushes is not recommended. However, 4 arms should be left, as the cultivation of this crop in this area can be unpredictable due to harsh conditions.

Preparing grapes for winter in the Urals

Autumn work with vines in the middle lane and in the suburbs

In the middle lane with sufficient mild winters, the vines are prepared for the cold a couple of weeks after the leaf fall. However, it is not recommended to wait for frosts. These regions need:

completely cut off young shoots;
remove all stepchildren;
leave stems up to 12 eyes, if they are fruit.

On a note! In other cases, the lower branches should be cut, leaving no more than 4 eyes.

In the middle regions, it is worth removing the plant from the supports and bending down to the ground. From above, a shelter is created from dry leaves, special material, slate, straw.

Growing and caring for grapes in the Moscow region involves the correct bending of the vines to the ground. It is very important that they are not in close contact with the ground. Planks of wood are usually laid out on the soil, which will avoid the formation of condensation, the appearance of mold, and the decay of seedlings.

Additionally, you can treat the plant with copper sulfate to protect it from harmful microorganisms.

Plentiful shelter is not required for some types of culture. These varieties include:

northern early;
Jubilee Novgorod;
Moscow stable.

A small amount of spruce branches will be enough for them.

How to prune grapes for the winter

In order to keep the grapes well in winter, it is very important to prune them correctly in the fall. In the process, parts that have stopped fruiting are removed from the vines. All you need to leave is a replacement knot and a fruit arrow. It is equally important to remove:

old sleeves;
damaged parts;
diseased vines;
unripe areas.

The procedure should be divided into 2 approaches. The first time it needs to be done after harvesting to remove dried and weak branches.

Properly pruning grapes for the winter

The main stage can be started after the bush has shed all the leaves. It is very important to have time to complete the work before the first frosts, at an air temperature not lower than -3. All shoots above 1.5 meters are removed in the first days of September. Bushes that exceed the second wire of the support must be cut by 30 cm. The main thing is not to exceed the removal of shoots by more than 10%. All stepchildren must be cut off. The lower part of the plant should become the basis for the replacement knot. To do this, leave no more than 4 eyes. When forming a fruit arrow, 5-12 eyes should be left.

How to cover grapes for the winter

Before you cover the grapes before mild winters, the culture must be treated with iron or copper sulfate. In regions with warm winters, the plant can not be covered. However, all varieties should be protected from death if the temperature is -21 ° C and below.

Before shelter, the vines bend down to the ground and pin to it. From above, they are dug in with moistened soil from the row-spacing.

Note! You can not use the soil from under the grapes, because the roots will freeze.

Most good way shelter vines - air-dry method. A plastic burlap should be thrown over the bunches of shoots or arcs of wire. You can use dark film. Then the plant is buried in the ground. Periodically, the shoots will need to be aired, dried and cooled, for which the shelter is simply opened for a short time.

Shelter of grapes for the winter

This method allows you to use:

leaves;
straw;
sawdust.

However, a film is always laid on top, the edges of which are necessarily pressed.

On a note! In the south, the plant is buried in soil with a layer of 20-25 cm.

Video: how to prepare grapes for winter

Mistakes in preparing a plant for winter

Features of preparing grapes for wintering in Siberia

How to do everything right, not harm the plant and protect it from low temperatures in winter - read on!

Grapes for the winter - we monitor the health of the vine in advance

Every gardener, even an amateur, knows that a weak and diseased vine will never survive the winter and is doomed to death. In order for the plant not to get sick and have excellent vitality, before the onset of frost, it is necessary to take care of the maximum comfortable conditions its growth and ensure proper fertilization of the root system. It is fertilizers that have the greatest effect on the strength of the vine and its readiness for wintering, since grapes accumulate starch, organic matter and sugar, which do not allow them to freeze even in the most severe frosts. If the plant has not accumulated the necessary substances, then the risk of freezing is very high.

It is necessary to pay attention to diseases of grapes. If it forms powdery mildew, fungus, mold or vine has been attacked by a pest - you must immediately, after you collect all the bunches (so as not to eat chemicals), treat with continuous fungicides. Any preparations, since the main thing is to destroy all biological activity on the plant and allow it to calmly accumulate nutrients.

Vine care also includes copper sulphate treatment in the fall. For this, a solution of 5% is suitable, which needs to be abundantly sprayed on the plant, and even better - dip into the solution, if it is possible to do so. This helps to get rid of many pests and sterilize the vine so that nothing disturbs while under the snow (or under the artificial "roof").

From the first days of spring, care must be taken that the bushes are not too thick, otherwise they will have a low vitality, and each process will not be able to absorb the necessary amount of minerals and salts.

grape pruning

Sheltering grapes for the winter is impossible without high-quality pruning for several reasons. First, it should be noted that it will be necessary a large number of material and labor to bury 7-8 meter shoots. It is better to shorten them to 2-3 meters, so that it is convenient to tilt them to the ground and cover them with a special agrofiber or pretend to be ground. Pruning is necessary not only for convenience, but also for the health of the plant itself. accumulate in the stem useful material, the outflow of which occurs from annual shoots to the productive part of the bush and roots. Thus, you can not cut the shoots immediately after fruiting, as some gardeners do.

The optimal pruning time is the first frost. It is then that the juice stops moving and the period of "hibernation" begins. You can safely remove annual shoots - they will freeze anyway and dry out in the spring. Absolutely everything is cut off to the hardened part, you can leave at your own risk 20-30 centimeters more, but it’s not a fact that this area will overwinter. Only perennial wood is thick enough to survive icing. The winter hardiness of the bush will increase significantly if you protect the site from the wind, since it is he who affects the icing of the stem. Icing restricts oxygen access and does not allow the plant to breathe, causing areas to die off (even perennial wood).

Choosing a vine that will overwinter is quite simple. You can do this visually. Its thickness should be at least 10-15 mm, if less, it is better not to risk it.

Next, we look at the core of the vine. If it occupies from 90 to 60% of the area, then there is no chance to survive prolonged cold. It is necessary that the core occupies no more than 40-50% of the volume, then we can say that all vital "organs" will be reliably hidden from the cold. The remaining thin stems can be safely cut.

How to save grapes for the winter - the harm and benefits of feeding

Many will be genuinely surprised that fertilizers can do a lot of harm, especially early varieties. It is known that nitrogen fertilizers have a very good effect on the development of the vegetative mass, especially at ambient temperatures above +15 0 C. Thus, the weight gain can be up to 1% per day or more, and the surface of the vine does not have time to harden and remains for several more months. young". As a result, shoots can freeze at low temperatures, and their growth stops only 1-2 months after the end of feeding with nitrogen-containing substances.

To avoid this, and the stem had time to harden and form a strong bark that would protect it from low temperatures, it is necessary to finish feeding with liquid and granular fertilizers 3-4 months before the onset of cold weather. That is, as soon as the vineyard ceased to bear fruit (or better a month before), it is necessary to suspend the application ammonium nitrate and phosphate fertilizers.

But do not confuse phosphorus and nitrogen fertilizers with organic ones, which will only benefit the root system and stems. They both nourish the necessary substances and warm the roots as a result of chemical processes that occur during the slow decomposition of organic matter. At the end of October, it is necessary to apply up to 5-10 kg of humus under each bush, and do it in such a way that all lateral roots do not come into direct contact with it, but have a soil ball 5-6 centimeters from humus. Otherwise, they can simply burn out in the spring when high temperature. In any case, if you covered the site with organic fertilizers, in the spring you need to pour everything abundantly so that the substances are absorbed evenly into the soil and do no harm.

The construction of winter shelters and their features

When building winter shelters, the main thing to understand is one simple thing - frost is not as terrible as ice, which makes it impossible to breathe. Even in the most severe frosts, the raspberry can remain unharmed if it was in a secluded place and “breathed”. Therefore, it makes no sense to dig large trenches, just sprinkle the earth on top or cover the vine.

When and how to insulate grapes for the winter no one will tell you for sure, since there is only one right decision for this task. Each uses the method that is most popular in his latitudes. In many cases, they begin to cover at an average daily temperature of -5 ° C - this is the ideal time, according to 60% of the gardeners surveyed. What needs to be considered and what to pay attention to?

The period of stay under winter shelter should be minimal. The more it will be underground, fabric and other types of insulating layers, the weaker the clusters will be in the spring. Cover grapes in nature is not provided, and he needs constant access to air, in the ground he is affected by bacteria, begins to rot and simply "suffocate" over time. The sooner you dig it up and the later you bury it, the faster the young shoots will develop and clusters will form.
It is not enough to accumulate starch for the wintering period, it is necessary that it crystallizes into sugar. Only sugar syrup, which is formed during the impact sub-zero temperatures on starch, can save the plant. It works like antifreeze in a car - it does not allow the entire "mechanism" to freeze even at -20 0C. What should be done? Just let it stand in the cold for a few days. After that, you can cover and bury.
Cannot be covered with foil. Never use polyethylene materials for winter shelter. Cells stop breathing and die. It is also worth considering that under the film there will be a greenhouse effect: under the sun, the buds will germinate and immediately die at night at sub-zero temperatures. It is better to leave without shelter at all than under the film - so at least there will be chances to survive.
It is impossible to cover the vine early. If it gets into warm ground, it can germinate, after which severe frosts will destroy the kidneys.

There are a large number of options for how to shelter for the winter, from the most time-consuming and lengthy, to five minutes. Consider several ways to build wintering "houses":

Lazy way. We bend the branches to the floor, cover with a polypropylene bag or agrofibre from above and press down with bricks. Actually, nothing more is needed. You can also sketch the earth along the edge.
A way for lovers of earthworks. We dig a hole with a depth of 30-40 centimeters and for the length of the entire stem, after which we put the vine in it and bury it. Sketch another 20-25 centimeters of earth from above so that no frosts find your treasure. If strength and desire remain, you can still throw earth on top of the roots so that they are warm and comfortable on cold winter nights.
Way for lovers modern architecture. If you couldn't make beautiful landscape design in the warm season - you have the opportunity to do it now! We wrap the tied and erect stem in agrofibre, burlap or other breathable material. Thus, you get a beautiful "ekibana" of impressive size! Not pretty enough? You can paint such a "design" in white or black - original. Your guests will certainly appreciate your taste, and the style will be reminiscent of European (they decorate every element in small yards, including plants prepared for winter)!
A method for gardeners who breed a lot of "tops". If the bush is very large and has thin stems since autumn, it is easiest to twist them into a spiral, and then tie them. Hammer 4 sticks around the bush, wrap them around with agrofiber or even mineral wool(some prefer to use fiberglass). Imagine yourself as a silkworm and make a beautiful cocoon around a bush! With a wall thickness of the "cocoon" of 1-2 mm, the plant is not afraid of any frost!

There are many more ways to keep grapes in winter, but these are the most popular and proven by many gardeners. Even summer residents and gardeners use special insulating materials for shelter, but then the design turns out to be relatively expensive (besides, it is disposable and will have to be thrown out next year). Therefore, there is no need to consider such a method. If you do everything right according to this guide, then next year you can confidently count on a good and tasty harvest of berries!

Do I need to prune grapes for the winter and how to properly cover them? Different varieties of grapes endure the winters of central Russia differently, not to mention the more northern regions. The roots of European varieties are damaged when the soil temperature drops to -5...-7°C, buds - at -18...-20°C, young shoots - at -22°C, and old wood - at -20... .-25°С. European-Amur and European-American hybrids withstand more than low temperatures. The roots are damaged at -9...-12°C, and the buds can withstand short-term frosts of -23...-30°C.

There are varieties that are mainly used for vertical gardening of arbors, open terraces. For example, such as Alpha (popularly this variety is called Isabella), Taiga emerald and others, endure ordinary winters without significant damage and without shelter.

If grape varieties grown for berries, then they should be covered for the winter.

Preparing bushes for wintering begins with preliminary autumn pruning and removal of the vine from the support. Cut out all fruit arrows with shoots grown on them. On shoots grown on replacement knots, the unripened part (with green bark), as well as stepchildren and mustaches, are removed. After that, it is desirable to treat the bushes with a 3% Bordeaux liquid.

Shelter is started with the onset of stable frosts on a dry, clear day. The easiest way is to pour mulching materials under each bush with a layer of up to 20 cm (sawdust, peat, compost or humus). The bush is removed from the support, the vines are tied into a bundle, bent down and fixed with metal or wooden arcs near the soil surface. It is advisable to lay under the vine spruce branches, pieces of boards, dry sunflower stalks, corn or film. From above the bushes cover various materials: synthetic winterizer, polyethylene foam, straw, spruce branches.

A film or roofing material spreads over the insulation in case of thaws and rain, so that moisture does not penetrate inside the shelter.

The ends under the roofing material or film are left open until a strong cold snap so that the vine breathes and condensation does not accumulate.

From mice you need to put poisonous baits.

What to do with young shoots?

Before covering, the unripened part of the shoots, stepchildren and antennae are removed, and in the spring they are pruned, creating sleeves, fruit links, fruit arrows, a replacement knot or a restoration knot, depending on the place where the shoots grow.