Rhododendron - planting and care, pruning rules. Growing in various climatic conditions

• Style: heather
• Flowering period: April May June
• Height: 0.3-1.5m
• Color: white, pink, purple, red, yellow, purple
• perennial
• hibernates
• Shade-loving
• moisture-loving

It is difficult to imagine a suburban area without the usual permanent residents - peonies, roses, poppies, dahlias, decorating flower beds and flower beds with their magnificent hats throughout the summer. However, sometimes in the dachas of the middle lane and the southern regions you can find an unusual beautiful shrub that resembles a rose. This is a rhododendron, a rather capricious heat-loving plant. It is not easy to find an approach to it, but the cultivation and care of rhododendrons eventually develops into a hobby for some lovers of rare plants - these magnificent flowers are so beautiful and exquisite.

Like most lush flowering crops, rhododendron is rarely found in the Russian wild, but grows exclusively under the supervision of gardeners.

Many species take root and feel great only in the southern latitudes, so they can be safely grown in the Crimea, Krasnodar Territory or in Stavropol. However, some varieties, such as Daursky or Canadian, develop well in temperate climates, so if you live in the Moscow region, in the Urals or even in the Siberian outback, rhododendron can also decorate your summer cottage with its magnificent flowering.

Literally translated from Latin, “rhododendron” means “rose tree” - and indeed, in its appearance, the plant is very similar to a rose, although it does not belong to rosaceae, but to heather

You are certainly familiar with one of the types of rhododendron - this is the well-known home azalea, which often adorns the window sills of city apartments. It is distinguished by lush flowering and a variety of shades.

It is impossible to imagine how relatives of this small plant can reach 25-30 meters in height, although in fact in the Himalayas, Japan, North America, some species grow to such gigantic sizes.

There are also low rhododendrons, which are separate bushes or creeping shrubs that feel comfortable at the foot of the mountains and in coastal marine areas.

Mountain varieties are small in size and ideal for organizing alpine slides. For example, the Kamchatka rhododendron is unpretentious, grows only up to 35-40 cm in height and has a bright pink hue.

Among annuals and perennials (and there are about 3 thousand species in total), you can choose a variety whose characteristics are suitable for growing in a particular region.

If you need a special shade - reddish, purple, white or yellow - this will not be a problem either, since the color palette of cultures is almost limitless. Flowering culture begins in early spring and continues throughout the warm period.

Thanks to the luxurious color palette, the garden azalea can be combined with various types flowering crops and used for growing in columbariums, rock gardens, multi-tiered flower beds

Planting rhododendrons: time, soil, lighting

Following general recommendations, planting can be done both in autumn and in spring, that is, in a growing season convenient for you, excluding flowering time and a short period after flowering - about 10 days. However, experienced gardeners still insist on spring planting, which continues, depending on the region, from April to May 10-15.

Varieties planted before this period are already covered with a thick color by the May holidays - against the background of barely hatched foliage and fresh grassy greenery, they look very impressive.

One of the early flowering rhododendrons is P.J. Mezitt is a lush plant with pink-lilac buds. The beginning of its flowering falls on the last decade of April - the first days of May

It is important to choose the right landing site, since in the bright sun the plant will feel uncomfortable, and in a completely dark place it will not lush flowering.

It is best to break a flower bed with rhododendrons on the north side of the building, in a semi-shaded area, so that at noon, when the sun's rays reach their maximum strength, the plant is completely closed from them.

A shadow barrier for a flower garden can serve not only the walls of the building, but also a fence or tall trees. Rhododendron gets along well with trees whose roots go deep into the soil and do not interfere with the development of the plant - oaks, larches, spruces, as well as fruit trees - pears or apple trees

Flowers absolutely cannot stand alkaline or neutral soil - it must be acidic, rich in humus, well aerated, without lime impurities. One of the best materials for cultivation is a mixture of peat and clay.

Rhododendron is planted in the following order:

• dig holes, shallow (35-40 cm) and wide enough (55-60 cm);
• the lower part is drained with a sand-pebble layer (10-15 cm);
• they are covered with a mixture of loam and peat (high-moor or sphagnum, with low acidity), while the peat should be about 2 times more;
• lightly tamp the soil inside the pit and make a hole in it the size of an earth seedling;
• lower the roots of the seedling into the hole and cover it with soil mixture up to the very root neck, which as a result should be on the same level with the soil surface;
• water the plant abundantly if the soil is dry;
• mulching is carried out (to a depth of 5-7 cm), for which peat, moss, rotted needles, leaves and chopped oak bark are suitable.

In order for the plant to take root better in a new place, thoroughly soak the roots with water before planting - lower the seedlings into a container of water until air bubbles stop appearing on the surface.

An approximate scheme for planting a rhododendron: 1 - garden soil; 2 - drainage; 3 - soil mixture of peat, clay or loam; 4 - a layer of pine needles

There is another trick that contributes to a better development of the root system. At flowering plant cut off the most magnificent buds - this way the seedling will spend more energy on rooting. Planting and further care of rhododendrons are important steps, following which you will achieve amazing results.

It is better to do the design of the planted bush in a couple of weeks - after it is completely rooted. You can give the plant a certain shape, and decorate the base depending on the style of landscape design of your site.

The nuances of caring for flowers

Norms proper care behind a flowering bush do not differ from generally accepted standards: it is necessary to observe the watering regime, weed and trim in time, feed the plant with suitable minerals and make sure that pests do not start.

There are also subtleties, for example, a careful approach when loosening. The roots of the plant are very close to the surface, so you need to loosen the soil very carefully, and you should not dig at all. When removing weeds, in no case do not use a chopper or garden knife, you can only work manually.

Irrigation mode and features

The ratio of rhododendron to moisture is very interesting. On the one hand, it absolutely does not tolerate waterlogging, on the other hand, it requires constant spraying and watering with specially prepared water.

Even while choosing a landing site, check whether groundwater is close to the surface. The fact is that with a large amount of moisture in the soil, the roots simply “choke” and the plant will die. That is why a drainage layer is needed to drain excess water.

It is especially important to observe the irrigation and atmospheric irrigation regime during the development of buds and flowering - the better the watering, the brighter and more magnificent the inflorescences will be

Watering is carried out regularly, previously acidifying the water - for this, 12-20 hours before watering, 2-3 handfuls of sphagnum peat are placed in a container with water. It is better not to use tap water, in extreme cases, it must be defended. The ideal option is rain collection. The regularity of watering depends on the condition of the plant: as soon as the leaves have lost their glossy sheen and changed turgor, it's time to water.

When is the best time to prune a plant?

The concept of pruning is very conditional. Usually the plant develops evenly and forms a profusely flowering shrub of the correct shape, so lovers of lush flower beds do not need to be pruned. But sometimes you need to thin out the shrub, make it a little lower, or simply rejuvenate.

Pruning is carried out in early spring, until sap flow begins. Choose strong, thick branches with a diameter of 3-4 cm, carefully cut off the ends with garden shears and process the cuts with a specially prepared garden pitch or resin. In about a month, the renewal process will start, lasting throughout the year - new shoots will hatch and dormant buds will begin to develop.

Particular skill requires pruning of frozen or old bushes: thick branches should be cut at a distance of 35-40 cm from the ground alternately for 2 years: part this year, the second - next

Rhododendrons are characterized by uneven flowering. If this year they pleased you with a particularly violent color, next year expect more modest results. To prevent this from happening, remove wilted buds immediately after flowering, and then the plant will have enough strength to gain as many buds as possible in the second year.

Protection from pests and diseases

Branching bushes with dense foliage and many buds are a great habitat for insects, half of which are able to destroy the beauty you have grown within a couple of weeks, so a number of measures must be taken to protect the shrub.

Thick trunks and branches are a favorite place for molluscs. Slugs and snails are harvested by hand. Beware of scale insects, bedbugs, spider mites, rhododendron flies, mealy worms. Treat stems and branches with 8% Tiram fungicide, Karbofos helps well.

It is more difficult to remove bedbugs, ticks, and especially the weevil, for which diazonin is used to get rid of. Remember, in order to say goodbye to a harmful guest forever, it is necessary to process not only the plant itself, but also the topsoil around it.

Along with pests, rhododendrons are threatened by fungal diseases - rust, chlorosis, spotting. The reason lies in insufficient aeration and non-compliance with the irrigation regime. Yellowness resulting from chlorosis is treated with an iron chelate solution. If rot appears, the affected shoots should be cut off completely. For prevention, seasonal treatment with Bordeaux liquid is carried out in late autumn or early April.

Top dressing and fertilizer selection

It is necessary to start feeding rhododendrons from planting and throughout the entire flowering period. Superphosphate, potassium sulphate, potassium nitrate, magnesium sulphate or calcium, ammonium are used to preserve the acidic medium important for the culture, but in a minimum concentration.

Early spring top dressing is made up of fertilizers containing nitrogen (40-50 g of magnesium sulfate or ammonium sulfate per 1 cubic meter of liquid), it is also relevant in the period after flowering. In July, the fertilizer dose should be reduced to 20 g.

An ideal top dressing for rhododendrons is a liquid solution of natural fertilizers such as hornmeal or cow dung. The rotted manure is diluted with water (1 part of fertilizer to 15 parts of water), infused for 3-4 days and used during irrigation.

1-2 years after planting, it is necessary to renew the topsoil. To do this, peat is mixed in equal proportions with humus or compost and sprinkled around the roots. Along with natural ingredients superphosphate, potassium sulphate or ammonium are added to the bedding (dry matter - 1 tablespoon each). As a dry powder, you can use "Agricola" for flowering garden plants. Remember that only carefully watered shrubs need to be fertilized.

Reproduction methods - which one to choose

Consider the three most successful ways of propagating rhododendron in garden conditions:

• seeds;
• cuttings;
• layering.

Growing plants from seeds is a long and laborious task. Dry, healthy seeds are sown in pots or boxes with moist peat, a little sand is added, covered with glass caps and exposed to a well-lit place. Within a month, it is necessary to moisten the soil and remove condensation from the glass.

Seedlings that appear after 4 weeks are planted in a greenhouse with a cool climate according to a 2 x 3 cm scheme. Seedlings will grow for a very long time, and only after 6-7 years you will see the first flowering

Propagation by cuttings is also not tolerated by all gardeners. It is necessary to take the shoots, half-woody, and cut several cuttings from them about 7-8 cm long.

Leaves are removed from the lower part, and the treated end is placed in a container with heteroauxin, a growth stimulator, where it is kept for 12-15 hours

Then they are placed in peat soil and covered, as is the case with seeds. Depending on the variety, the cuttings will take root in 2-4 months, after which they are transplanted into boxes with peat-coniferous soil and taken out to a cool greenhouse. The optimum temperature is 10ºС. They are planted in the spring along with other flowers, right in the boxes, and only after a couple of years they can be transplanted to the main place of growth.

Most convenient option reproduction - pinning layering. They take a flexible lower shoot, dig a groove 12-15 cm deep near it, and lay the process in this groove.

So that it does not rise, the middle part of the stem is pinned, and sprinkled with peat on top. The upper part must be brought out and tied to a support - a wooden peg stuck in the ground

The layering is looked after in the same way as the whole bush - watered, sprayed. When it takes root (in late autumn or spring), it is carefully separated, dug up and transplanted to a place of permanent growth. This method is especially good for propagating deciduous rhododendrons.

The most popular country varieties

In a coniferous garden, a 2-3-meter Daurian rhododendron will perfectly get along. It is characterized by abundant flowering of buds, reaching a diameter of 4 cm.

If the warm season drags on, then the Daursky variety will definitely please you with repeated autumn flowering, and next spring the winter-hardy plant will bloom normally

Rhododendron Adams is an eastern guest accustomed to rocky mountain soils.

A beautiful plant with pale pink flowers grows up to one and a half meters in height. In our country it is found infrequently, and in Buryatia it is listed in the Red Book

The low creeping Caucasian rhododendron is a real find for rock gardens.

The petals of the inflorescences of the Caucasian rhododendron are distinguished by an unusual pale yellow or cream shade, which will remarkably dilute the more saturated, juicy colors of other varieties.

Japanese rhododendron is a magnificent deciduous variety with flamingo-colored buds.

Japanese rhododendrons with delightful flowers and picturesque foliage that turns red in autumn are unpretentious, winter-hardy and reproduce well in any way - an excellent option for growing in central Russia

And finally - a short video on how to achieve lush flowering of rhododendrons.

Plant rhododendron (lat. Rhododendron)- a genus of semi-deciduous, deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs of the Heather family, which, according to various sources, includes from eight hundred to one thousand three hundred species, including such popular azaleas in indoor floriculture, which received the nickname "indoor rhododendron". The word "rhododendron" consists of two roots: "rhodon", which means "rose", and "dendron" - a tree, which as a result forms the concept of "rose tree", or "tree with roses". Azaleas really do look like roses.

In nature, rhododendrons are distributed mainly in the Northern Hemisphere - in South China, Japan, the Himalayas, North America and Southeast Asia. Most often they are found in the coastal zone of rivers, seas and oceans, in the penumbra of undergrowth and on the northern slopes of mountains. Some rhododendrons are able to grow up to 30 cm in height, while other species are creeping shrubs. The flowers of plants of this genus vary in size, color, and shape. Suffice it to say that the smallest of them are literally tiny in size, and the largest reach a diameter of 20 cm. Garden rhododendron today has about 3000 forms, varieties and varieties.

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• Landing: April to mid-May or September to November.
• Bloom: in late April-early June for 2-3 weeks. Abundant flowering happens in a year.
• Lighting: penumbra or shade.
• The soil: well-drained, loose, rich in humus, acidic.
• Watering: With slightly acidified water, the soil should be soaked to a depth of 20-30 cm. A sign that the time has come for watering is the loss of turgor by the leaves.
• Pruning: minimal, in early spring, before the start of sap flow.
• Top dressing: liquid organic matter (a solution of cow manure or hornmeal) or mineral fertilizer solutions on pre-moistened soil from early spring to the end of July.
• Reproduction: seeds, dividing the bush, grafting, cuttings and layering.
• Pests: aphids, mealybugs, bed bugs, weevils, spider mites, scale insects, rhododendron flies, snails and slugs.
• Diseases: chlorosis, rust, powdery mildew, leaf spot and cancer.

Read more about growing rhododendron below.

Rhododendron flower - description

Garden rhododendron is represented by shrubs with leaves of various sizes and shapes - annual, biennial and perennial, sessile or petiolate, alternate, entire or serrated, ovate or obovate. The rhododendron flower is popular all over the world due to the decorativeness of its foliage, but its main advantage is the magnificent flowers of white, pink, red, purple, lilac, collected in corymbs or brushes, resembling a chic bouquet. Depending on the variety and species, the shape of the flowers can be bell-shaped, funnel-shaped, wheel-shaped or tubular. In some species, the flowers emit a pleasant aroma. The fruit of the rhododendron is a multi-seeded, five-winged box with seeds up to 2 mm in size.

The root system of the rhododendron is compact, superficial, consisting of many fibrous roots, and it is precisely because of its superficial location that the transplantation of rhododendron is easy and does not cause much trouble to either the gardener or the plant. Rhododendron is an excellent early spring honey plant.

Planting a rhododendron

Where and when is the best time to plant a rhododendron

In the conditions of our climate, it makes sense to grow rhododendrons in the garden exclusively winter-hardy. Planting rhododendron in the ground is carried out from April to mid-May, and also from September to November. Actually, if necessary, this can be done at any time during the growing season, with the exception of the time when the rhododendron blooms, and within one to two weeks after flowering. It is better to plant rhododendron in the shade, on the north side of the building, in loose, well-drained acidic soil rich in humus.

If the groundwater in your area lies at a depth of less than one meter, the rhododendron is planted on a raised bed.

The neighbors of the rhododendron can be pine, oak, larch - trees with a deep root system. Tree species such as linden, chestnut, alder, maple, willow, elm or poplar will deprive the rhododendron of the necessary nutrition, since their roots will feed at the same depth as the roots of the rhododendron. If it is not possible to avoid such a neighborhood, you will have to protect the root system of the rhododendron by digging roofing material, slate or polyethylene into the ground. good neighbors for rhododendron garden trees are considered - apple trees, pears.

How to plant a rhododendron

A carefully mixed mixture of 8 buckets of high-moor peat and 3.5 buckets of loam is poured into a planting pit with a diameter of about 60 cm and a depth of about 40 cm (loam can be replaced with two buckets of clay). The mixture at the bottom of the pit is carefully rammed, and then a hole is dug in it, corresponding to the size of the root ball of the seedling. Before planting, dip the rhododendron seedlings into water and keep them there until no more air bubbles come out. Then place the roots of the seedling in the hole, fill the hole to the top with the substrate, tamping it down so that there are no voids left. The root neck of the rhododendron should eventually be at the level of the surface of the site.

Water the bush abundantly if you planted the rhododendron in dry ground so that the soil gets wet to a depth of 20 cm, and mulch the near-stem circle with peat, oak leaves, moss or pine needles with a layer of 5-6 cm. If there are a lot of flower buds on the bush, better part remove from them in order to direct forces to successful rooting, and not to the flowering of rhododendron. When planting alone in a spacious area, so that the wind does not loosen a newly planted plant, you need to stick a support, tilting it towards the direction of the most frequently blowing winds, and tie a seedling to it. As soon as the bush takes root, the support can be removed.

Rhododendron Care

Caring for a rhododendron includes the usual procedures: watering, spraying, weeding, top dressing, bush formation and pest and disease control, if necessary. It is impossible to loosen the soil around the rhododendron, and even more so to dig it up, because of the roots of the plant located too close to the surface. For the same reasons, weeds must be removed manually, without using a chopper.

Rhododendron needs soil and atmospheric moisture more than other plants, especially during the formation of buds and flowering. Proper watering also affects the laying of flower buds next year. Watering is carried out with soft water - settled or rain. You can soften, and at the same time acidify the water for rhododendron, adding a few handfuls of high-moor peat to it a day before watering. The frequency of watering is determined by the state of the leaves: if they become dull and lose turgor, then they are thirsty. When moistened, the soil should get wet to a depth of 20-30 cm.

However, it is very important, when watering the rhododendron, not to flood the roots, since the plant is sensitive to excess moisture in the roots, but it behaves when waterlogged in exactly the same way as during drought - lowers and folds the leaves. So that the rhododendron does not mislead you, in dry and hot weather, try not to increase the amount of water when watering, spray the leaves of the rhododendron with soft water as often as possible.

pruning rhododendron

Pruning of rhododendrons should be minimal, since their bushes themselves form the correct shape. However, sometimes it is necessary to cut bushes that are too tall, remove frozen shoots, or rejuvenate an old rhododendron. How to prune an adult bush? Cut the shoots in early spring, before the start of sap flow. In those places where the thickness of the branches reaches 2-4 cm, the sections are treated with garden pitch. A month later, dormant buds awaken on the shoots, and the renewal process begins, which takes place throughout the year.

Very old or heavily frozen bushes are cut at a height of 30-40 cm from the ground: in the first year, one half of the bush, the next year - the second.

Rhododendrons have one feature: in one year they bloom and bear fruit very abundantly, and the next year both flowering and fruiting of the rhododendron are much more modest. To get rid of such periodicity, you need to break out wilted inflorescences immediately after flowering, so that the rhododendron uses strength and nutrition to form flower buds for the next year.

Feeding rhododendron

It is necessary to fertilize even those rhododendrons that were planted this year, and the first top dressing is made in early spring, and the last - at the end of July, after flowering, when young shoots begin to grow. Rhododendrons prefer liquid top dressing from semi-rotted cow dung, horn meal. Manure is poured with water in a ratio of 1:15 and allowed to brew for several days, and only then is used as a fertilizer. Water the rhododendron before fertilizing.

Since rhododendrons grow in acidic soils, in order not to disturb the reaction of the environment, it is preferable to use ammonium sulphate, superphosphate, nitrate, sulphate or potassium phosphate, calcium sulphate and magnesium in a very low concentration of 1.2: 1000 from mineral fertilizers, and a solution of potash fertilizers can be even weaker. The optimal feeding regime involves the introduction of organic or mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers in early spring at the rate of 50 g of ammonium sulfate and 50 g of magnesium sulfate per 1 m², and after flowering, in early June, 40 g of ammonium sulfate and 20 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. In July, only 20 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate are added per 1 m².

Pests and diseases of rhododendron

Of the pests, mealybugs, scale insects, spider mites, bugs, weevils, rhododendron flies, as well as snails and slugs, bother rhododendrons most of all.

Gastropod molluscs are harvested by hand, and as a preventive measure, treatment of rhododendron with an eight percent solution of the fungicide TMTD, or Tiram, is used.

Spider mites, rhododendron bugs, as well as weevils are destroyed by treatment with diazinon, and in the event of damage to the rhododendron by the weevil, the topsoil will also have to be treated with an insecticide.

The rest of the insects are exterminated with karbofos in accordance with the instructions for the drug.

Of the diseases, rhododendrons are most often pursued by fungal diseases - leaf spot, cancer, chlorosis, rust. They arise, as a rule, as a result of poor aeration of the roots. Spotting and rust are destroyed by preparations of copper sulfate, in particular Bordeaux liquid.

Chlorosis, from which the rhododendron turns yellow, requires the addition of iron chelate to the water for irrigation. As for cancer, it is necessary to remove diseased shoots or cut them to healthy tissue, in addition, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatments of rhododendron with Bordeaux liquid in early spring and late autumn.

Reproduction of rhododendron

Rhododendrons reproduce generatively (by seeds) and vegetatively - by dividing the bush, layering, cuttings and grafting. The easiest way to propagate rhododendrons is by layering, and we will talk about this method, as well as how to properly sow seeds and carry out cuttings.

Rhododendron seeds are sown in bowls with well-moistened heather or peat soil mixed with sand at a rate of 3: 1, the seeds are sprinkled with washed sand on top, the bowls are covered with glass and placed in a bright place for germination. Care of crops consists in moistening the substrate as needed, daily ventilation and removal of condensate from the glass. Sprouts usually appear in a month, and when a pair of leaves appears at the seedlings, they are seated more freely according to the 2x3 cm pattern, deepening into the soil along the cotyledon to form the root system of seedlings.

The first year the seedlings are kept in a cool greenhouse, and the next year they are planted in open ground on training beds with garden soil mixed with sand and peat. Seedlings grow very slowly and bloom only for 6-8 years.

Propagating rhododendron cuttings is not much easier. Semi-lignified shoots are suitable for this, from which cuttings 5-8 cm long are cut. The lower leaves are removed from the cuttings, and the lower sections are kept in a solution of a root growth stimulator, for example, in heteroauxin, for 12-16 hours. Then the cuttings are placed in a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 3:1 and covered with a transparent dome. Cuttings take root for a long time and hard: deciduous species for a month and a half, and evergreen species for 3-4.5 months.

The cuttings are grown in boxes with a mixture of peat and pine needles in a ratio of 2: 1, for the winter they are taken out to a cool, bright room, where the temperature is kept within 8-12 ºC, and in the spring they are added dropwise in the garden right in the boxes and grow for another year or two until transfers to permanent place.

Dropping layering is the easiest and most natural way to propagate rhododendron. In the spring, a young, flexible shoot from a bush growing at the very bottom is bent down and placed in a pre-made groove at least 15 cm deep, with the middle part of the shoot pinned in the groove, and garden soil mixed with peat is poured on top of it. The tip of the shoot remains on the surface and is tied to a peg inserted vertically.

Throughout the season, the cuttings are moistened along with the bush, and in the fall or next spring, the rooted cuttings are separated from the mother plant and transplanted to a permanent place. It is best to propagate deciduous rhododendron in this way.

Rhododendron after flowering

Rhododendron in autumn

If the autumn turns out to be dry, the rhododendron must be watered abundantly - 10-12 liters for each bush. If autumn, as usual, with rains, then you will not have to water the rhododendrons. By November, each bush is insulated in the root zone, laying a layer of peat around the trunk circle.

Rhododendron in winter

If you live in the middle lane, with the first frosts, the rhododendron bushes need to be covered with burlap, after putting spruce and pine branches between the branches and slightly pulling the bush with twine. Remove the bags on a cloudy day in early spring, as soon as the snow melts. In warmer areas, rhododendrons overwinter without shelter.

Types and varieties of rhododendrons

You can talk about the types of rhododendron endlessly, because there are a lot of them. We will give a description of those that are grown in culture, as well as introduce you to the most popular garden varieties rhododendrons.

Daurian rhododendron (Rhododendron dahuricum)

It grows naturally in Primorsky Krai, Northeast China, Korea, Eastern Siberia and Northern Mongolia, preferring coniferous forests and rocks. It is an evergreen medium-sized strongly branched shrub from two to four meters high with a gray bark and branches directed upwards. Its shoots are thin, reddish-brown in color, pubescent towards the ends with a short pile. Small leathery leaves up to three centimeters long on the upper side of the plate are smooth, scaly below - light green in youth, darker in maturity, and either brown or red-green in autumn. Not all leaves fall with the onset of winter, many of them stay on the branches all winter. Abundant flowering of Daurian rhododendron, lasting about three weeks, occurs before the leaves bloom with funnel-shaped large flowers of a purple-pink hue, reaching 4 cm in diameter. Sometimes in the fall, the Daurian rhododendron blooms again.

This species is very winter-hardy, easily propagated by green cuttings. It has two varieties:

• evergreen form with dark green leaves and purple-lilac flowers;
• garden early hybrid, undersized, with abundant, bright, early blooming bluish-red flowers up to 5 cm in diameter. This form is not as winter-hardy as the main species.

Rhododendron Adams (Rhododendron adamsii)

Rhododendron evergreen growing on Far East and in the northeastern foothills of Tibet and choosing mountain forests and rocky slopes for habitat. It is a branched shrub up to half a meter tall with shoots covered with glandular pile. Dense matte green leaves are oblong-elliptical, up to 2 cm long and up to 2 cm wide, glabrous above, red below due to scales. Flowers up to one and a half cm in diameter in different shades Pink colour collected in corymbose inflorescences of 7-15 pieces. This rhododendron is included in the Red Book of Buryatia.

Japanese rhododendron (Rhododendron japonicum)

As the name implies, it comes from Japan, from the sunny mountains of the island of Honshu. This species is one of the most beautiful deciduous rhododendrons, which is a branchy shrub up to two meters tall with shoots that are bare or covered with silver bristles. The leaf of Japanese rhododendron is green, oblong-lanceolate, with soft pubescence on both sides of the leaf plate. Leaves turn orange-red in autumn. Fragrant bell-shaped flowers up to 8 cm in diameter, collected 6-12 pieces in racemose inflorescences, are painted in orange and scarlet red. In the middle lane there is no species equal in beauty to the Japanese rhododendron. In addition, the species is winter-hardy, well propagated by cuttings and seeds.

Caucasian rhododendron (Rhododendron caucasicum)

grows wild in the Caucasus, as its name implies. This is a low evergreen shrub with creeping branches. The leaves of the Caucasian rhododendron are leathery, oval, oblong, dark green, glabrous on the upper side of the plate and felt-red on the lower side, located on long thick petioles. Fragrant funnel-bell-shaped yellowish flowers with green spots inside the throat are collected 8-12 pieces in racemose inflorescences located on hairy peduncles.

The view has several decorative forms:

• pink-white, which blooms earlier than the main species;
• shiny with dark pink flowers;
• golden yellow with yellow flowers, decorated with greenish specks;
• straw-yellow with yellow flowers with reddish spots.

In addition to the described species, rhododendrons of Albrecht, Atlantic, Vazeya, unflowered, tree-like, yellow, hard-haired, western, golden, Indian, Kamchatka, Canadian, Caroline, Carpathian, carpal, sticky, short-fruited, reddening, largest, large-leaved, Ketevbinsky, Lapland , Ledebour, small-leaved, marigold, sea buckthorn, pointed, dense, pontic, attractive, pukkhansky, rusty, evenly tall, pink, shichotinsky, plum-leaved, obtuse, rooting, yakushimansky and many others.

Rhododendron hybrid

This is the name of the totality of variety forms and hybrids of rhododendrons grown in culture. In other words, a hybrid rhododendron is a garden rhododendron. The most popular varieties of hybrid rhododendron are:

• German cultivar Alfred, bred by crossing the Everestina variety with the Ketevbinsky rhododendron and which is an evergreen shrub up to 120 cm high with a crown diameter of about one and a half meters. The leaves are oblong-elliptical, dark green and shiny. Bright purple flowers with a yellow-green spot up to 6 cm in diameter are collected in dense inflorescences of 15-20 pieces;
• variety Blue Peter obtained by crossing the Pontic rhododendron. The height of the bush is more than one and a half meters. The crown is spreading, up to two meters in diameter. Flowers up to 6 cm in diameter of a lavender-blue shade with corrugated edges and with dark spot purple on the top petal;

• jacksons- An English hybrid between the Nobleanum variety and the Caucasian rhododendron. Bush up to two meters high, crown diameter about three meters. There is an undersized form up to 80 cm high. The leaves are oblong, leathery, dull green above and brown below. Collected in inflorescences of 8-12 pieces, the flowers have a pink tint during blooming, and later turn white with a yellow spot on one petal;
• Rose Marie- a variety of Czech selection, bred by crossing Pink Pearl and magnificent rhododendron. The height of the bush is 120 cm, the girth of the crown is one and a half meters. The leaves are oblong-elliptical, leathery, the upper side of the leaf plate is light green in color with a waxy coating, the bottom leaves are blue-green, glossy. The flowers, pale pink at the edges, and deep pink with a purple tint towards the middle, are collected in compact spherical inflorescences of 6-14 pieces;
• Nova Zembla- Dutch hybrid between the variety Persone Gloriosum and the Katevbinsky rhododendron. Bush up to 3 m high and loose crown up to 3.5 m in girth. The shoots grow almost vertically, the leaves are large, leathery, shiny. large flowers up to 6 cm in diameter, red with a black spot, collected 10-12 pieces in dense inflorescences;

• Cunningham- Scottish cultivar, the most popular variety of Caucasian rhododendron, reaching a height of two meters with a crown diameter of one and a half meters. The leaves are oblong, leathery, dark green, up to 6 cm long and up to 3 cm wide. White flowers with yellow-brown specks are collected in 10 pieces in dense inflorescences.

Properties of rhododendron

In addition to the indisputable decorative advantages, rhododendron has medicinal properties which are widely used in folk and traditional medicine. Species such as Dahurian, Golden, Adams, Caucasian rhododendron contain andromedotoxin, ericoline, arbutin and rhododendrin. Rhododendron leaves also contain ascorbic acid, the most high concentration which is noted in the plant in the summer months. Due to the content of substances useful for the human body, rhododendron has antipyretic, analgesic, bactericidal, sedative and diaphoretic effects. It removes from the body excess liquid, relieving shortness of breath, edema, frequent heartbeat, lowers arterial and venous pressure and enhances cardiac activity.

However, the rhododendron is far from harmless. During pregnancy and lactation, as well as patients with tissue necrosis and those suffering from serious kidney diseases, you should refrain from taking drugs based on rhododendron. And in any case, before taking such medications, it would be best to first consult with your doctors.

Rhododendron in the Moscow region - features

Sometimes amateur flower growers, fascinated by a beautiful advertising picture, are eager to grow an outlandish bush called rhododendron in their garden. But how often, despite the money, time and effort spent, they are disappointed - the bush on the site does not look at all like in the advertising booklet, moreover, it withers every day and, in the end, dies. Is it possible to avoid such a sad ending and grow a thermophilic rhododendron plant in Moscow, for example? Is it possible to grow rhododendron in the Moscow region, in the Leningrad region and other areas of the middle lane? As they say, with the right approach, nothing is impossible.

Planting a rhododendron in the suburbs

Firstly, you need to know exactly which of the types of rhododendron can survive the winter near Moscow, since non-cold-resistant species and varieties die from frost even under cover. It is best to plant, of course, deciduous types of rhododendrons: Japanese, yellow, Schlippenbach, Vazeya, Canadian, Kamchatka, Pukhansky. Of the semi-evergreen species, Ledebour's rhododendron is suitable, and from evergreens, you can grow the Katevbinsky rhododendron (as well as its hybrids Alfred, Abraham Lincoln, Nova Zembla, Cunningham White), short-fruited, golden, largest rhododendrons and Smirnov's rhododendron and its hybrids Gabriel, Dorothy Swift, Laika. Winter-hardy varieties Elvira, The Hague, Mikkeli, bred not so long ago in Finland, have proven themselves well. The hybrids of the Northern Light group Rosie Lights, Pink Lights, Spicy Lights and others winter well in the middle lane.

If you have purchased a winter-hardy rhododendron, then you need to be able to plant it correctly. First, you need to do it in the spring, choosing a semi-shady place no closer than a meter from any other plants. Secondly, buy a special soil for rhododendron or make your own mixture of garden soil, needles and peat. Complex mineral fertilizer must be added to the soil. Thirdly, the pit for a rhododendron seedling should be twice the size of the container with the root system of the seedling, and if the soil in the area is clay, be sure to pour a drainage layer of broken brick 15 cm thick on the bottom of the pit. Fourthly, do not bury the root when planting neck - let it remain at the same level as in the container. After planting, be sure to water the seedling.

Caring for rhododendron in the suburbs

Planting and caring for a rhododendron in the Moscow region is not much different from growing this plant in regions with warmer winters, but there are still differences. We offer you a list of requirements, by fulfilling which, you can count on success, despite the cool climate of your area:

• rhododendrons grow in acidic humus soils. In the zone where the roots take nutrients, there should be no dolomite, ash, lime and other substances that alkalize the soil;
• mulching the near-stem circles of rhododendron is necessary, especially since it is impossible to loosen and dig the soil around the bushes due to the horizontal location of the root system of the rhododendron;
• in the spring, organize the protection of the rhododendron from the sun's rays with a mesh, gauze or cloth;
• The most important success factor is deep and balanced watering of the rhododendron: it should receive exactly as much moisture as it needs, no more, no less. In dry, hot summers, watering is carried out twice a week.

Sometimes in early autumn, due to warm rainy weather, rhododendrons begin to grow, but young shoots do not have time to mature and die in winter. To avoid unwanted late growth of shoots, spray the bush in dry weather with a one percent solution of potassium sulfate or monophosphate from a fine spray - this measure will stop growth, stimulate woody shoots and lay flower buds on next year. However, after spraying, watering the rhododendron should be stopped, even if the weather is dry.

After this article, they usually read

The rhododendron plant is a native of Heather. In translation, the name rhododendron means pink tree. This is a fairly well-known plant in growing at home, and the common people call it indoor rhododendron.

General information

The plant is common in the Northern Hemisphere. Less common in Japan, Asia, North America. In the Ukrainian expanses, this plant grows in the subalpine zone, and only the Carpathian rhododendron. But only there it is called in its own way "Chervona Ruta". This species is listed in the Red Book.

The rhododendron flower grows in nature both in groups and single individuals. Found on mountain slopes wetlands and in the tundra.

Rhododendron is an almost evergreen shrub plant or tree. The height of miniature species ranges from 10 cm to one meter, and there are exceptions, the height of which is about 30 meters.

The leaves of the plant are of various shapes and sizes too. The foliage is arranged in a spiral pattern. The shape of the leaf is an oblong oval with a slight pubescence. Inflorescences are presented in racemes or corymbs, sometimes solitary. The corolla has a sunny or pinkish hue.

The fruits are formed in the form of boxes with many seeds. There are about 1300 plant species in the natural environment.

Varieties and types

This is a deciduous species, reaching a height of up to 2 meters. The shoots of the plant are directed upwards. The foliage is elliptical in shape, about 4 cm long and up to 1.5 cm wide. Inflorescences solitary, pale purple. Flowering begins in mid-summer, after the full appearance of the leaves.

A vigorous shrub. The height of this species is about 3 meters. The foliage is oblong about 12 cm long. Inflorescences are presented up to 10 flowers in racemes and have a pleasant aroma. Flowering occurs at the end of spring.

It is an evergreen bush with many leaves reaching a height of 4 meters, but to a greater extent the width of the bush exceeds the height. The shape of the leaf is in the form of an ellipse, about 15 cm long. There are up to 20 flowers in the racemes. The corolla of the flower is purple. Flowering begins at the end of spring.

An accelerating view of about two meters in height. The leaves are similar in shape to maple and are located at the ends of the stems. The inflorescences are pale pink interspersed, the diameter of the flower is about 10 cm.

This is a bush, about 2 meters tall. The shape of the bush is decomposed. The foliage is elongated about 10 cm long, slightly pubescent. In autumn, it has a yellowish-red hue. Inflorescences are scarlet of a sunny shade, about 8 cm in diameter with a pleasant aroma. Flowering begins in the last month of spring. The duration of flowering is more than a month.

Pretty common. Due to the abundance of flowers, the leaves are almost completely invisible. The height is about one meter. Bell-shaped inflorescences. The shade of the flower is scarlet, yellow or pink.

This is not a large bush up to half a meter in height. In adult individuals of the plant, the shade of the bark is dark gray shade. The leaves of the species are elongated with a rounded end. Juveniles have an individually pleasant, but more pungent aroma.

The inflorescences of the species have a light pink hue, without aroma. There are about 15 flowers in racemes. Flowering lasts all summer.

About 1 meter 20 centimeters high. With a brown shade of bark. Shoots have a more accelerating character.

The leaves are oblong and oval in shape. FROM inside the leaf is covered with hairs. The flowers are clustered in corymbs of about 8 pieces. The diameter of the inflorescence is about 3 cm. The shade of the petals is light or pale pink. Blooms in spring and is a good honey plant. The hybrid look is quite demanding in care and planting.

Not a large shrub. Spreading shoots. The foliage is alternate, about 8 cm long, the surface of the leaf is an olive shade, and on the inside a less distinct shade. Inflorescences on high legs, about 5 flowers on one. After flowering, the fruit is a box with small seeds. The aroma of the plant is similar to the smell of fresh strawberries.

Not a voluminous tree shaped like a ball. The foliage is narrowed, dense, glossy outside. The shade of the leaves is a dark olive shade on the outside, and on the inside it has a chocolate shade with small villi.

The inflorescences are about 7 cm in diameter. Starting flowering, the petals have a pale pink hue, and by the end they become a rich white color. Flowering begins towards the end of spring.

Has a spherical bush. Hybrid plant from Katevsbinsky rhododendron. The species was bred in 1851. The height of the plant is about 3 meters. Leaves are medium sized and elliptical in shape. inflorescences with pink tint and crimson spots. Flowering begins in late spring and lasts about a month.

Rhododendron planting and care

The landing site should be selected slightly shaded. Preferably the northern part. It is preferable to plant rhododendron in early spring, in the first months of spring.

Rhododendron transplantation is done in the fall before the start of frost. Also, transplantation can be done at any necessary period, only a month before flowering, or after the plant has faded in a few weeks.

soil for rhododendrons

The soil for planting should be light, loose with good layer drainage. It is important that the soil is acidic and with sufficient fertilizer. Suitable high-moor peat and loamy soil in a ratio of 8: 3.

Stagnation of moisture must be avoided, otherwise the plant will die. It is necessary to plant a plant in a prepared hole about half a meter in diameter and the same depth.

To acidify the soil for rhododendrons. It is necessary to introduce processed sawdust from coniferous trees or rotted needles of conifers.

At home, you can check if your soil needs acidification. To do this, you will need to pour currant or cherry leaves with boiling water, and when the water has cooled, throw some earth. If the water changes color to blue, then the soil needs acidification, if red, then it is normal. And if it changes color to green, then the soil is neutral.

Caring for the plant does not require special skills, you just need to loosen the soil in time and remove weeds.

Watering rhododendrons

It is preferable to provide moderate moisture to the plant. Water must be settled or, if possible, rainwater. The soil should be moist up to 30 cm deep. You can determine if you need to water by appearance foliage, if they become faded and dull, then moisturizing is necessary.

Rhododendron loves sufficiently humidified air about 65%, therefore it requires frequent spraying of the leaves.

Fertilizer for rhododendrons

The plant should be fertilized from early spring to the end of flowering in mid-summer. Feed with cow liquid manure along with water in a ratio of 1:15. Before fertilizing, the plant must be watered.

The most practical fertilizer option is in the early spring of mineral and organic complex fertilizers. During flowering cow dung.

Autumn fertilizers for rhododendrons are necessary after flowering. Phosphate and potassium fertilizers are suitable for this.

pruning rhododendrons

Trimming the plant is required as needed to create desired shape. Pruning is done in early spring, before the start of the growing season. Dry shoots are cut off and old branches are rejuvenated, the thickness of which is about 4 cm.

Plants that overwintered poorly or are outdated must be completely rejuvenated by cutting off all shoots at a height of about 30 cm from the ground.

Shelter of rhododendrons for the winter

It is necessary to cover the plant if you have hot and frosty winters. To do this, cover the bush with dry leaves and sawdust. And the shoots themselves are covered with spruce branches and insulated with burlap.

Insulation must be removed after the snow melts in early spring.

Reproduction of rhododendrons by cuttings

To do this, cuttings are cut from adult large plants about 8 cm long. They are placed in a growth stimulator for half a day. And then they are planted in a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 3: 1, then covered with cellophane, making a greenhouse.

Periodically open for watering and ventilation. Rooting occurs up to 4.5 months. After rooting, the cuttings are transplanted into a mixture of peat and needles.

Reproduction of rhododendrons by layering

To do this, in the spring, a young shoot is added dropwise into a small recess about 16 cm deep and sprinkled with soil, watered during the summer period, and when rooting occurs, they are transplanted separately.

Rhododendron propagation by seeds

Seeds must be sown in a container with prepared peat, to a depth of about a centimeter. The container is covered with glass and periodically ventilated and moistened the soil. The temperature for seed germination is about 15 degrees.

After the appearance of several pairs of leaves, the seedlings are planted in separate containers, and in open ground in the second year after sowing.

Diseases and pests

• Before the onset of cold weather the leaves of the plant begin to turn red and crumble . In other words, the plant is preparing for wintering.
• Rhododendron not blooming the reasons may be different, the soil may not match, there is little light, a lot of nitrogen fertilizer, leads to the growth of branches and leaves, and flowering does not start.
• Leaves turn yellow on rhododendrons from excessive moisture in the root system, it is necessary to monitor moderate moisture.
• Rhododendron not growing due to lack of fertilizer, non-acidic soil or too much sun, and the plant suffers from heat.
• Rhododendron drops leaves the reason for this may be dry soil, unsuitable land for planting, or your plant is affected by pests.
• The rhododendron withers and the leaves turn brown the reasons are most likely dry air and insufficient spraying. There may also be excessive exposure to direct sunlight.
• Rhododendron leaves are pale green in low light, the leaves become pale and faded. The second reason is the lack of watering the plant.
• Rhododendron buds not opening the reason is the elevated air temperature, the optimum temperature for a plant indoors is about 16, and outdoors within 22 degrees.
• Rhododendron leaves turned black the cause was the disease chlorosis, it manifests itself with a lack of soil acidity.
• When pests appear on the plant , it is necessary to treat the rhododendron bush with an appropriate insecticide.

These shrubs are great when in bloom. At the beginning of the 19th century, the gardens of Russia for the first time began to decorate rhododendrons. Varieties, cultivation in open ground, planting, care, reproduction: we cultivate rhododendrons according to all the rules.

The genus of rhododendrons is quite extensive - more than 1,000 species, which include diverse varieties of this wonderful plant. The natural distribution area of ​​​​rhododendrons is limited to eastern countries: China, Japan, Korea, the Himalayas; some varieties of the plant are found in the Caucasus, North America, northern Africa and Australia. On European territory, two varieties of rhododendron grow in the mountainous regions of Germany.

The culture belongs to flowering deciduous or evergreen shrubs of the heather family. The branches of the plant may have a smooth bark or pubescence. Leathery, dark green small ovate leaves sometimes have pubescence. Flowers are bell-shaped, funnel-shaped, simple and double. The color of the petals varies depending on the variety: white, pink, lilac, red, purple. Modern varieties of rhododendron have a yellow and orange color. Numerous small seeds ripen in boxes.

Rhododendrons, the most suitable for cultivation in Russia, are limited to 26 species belonging to three groups of plants.

• Evergreens are tall shrubs that do not shed dark leathery foliage even in winter. Large flowers are painted in different colors and tones. Growing evergreen rhododendrons in the open field requires compliance with a number of necessary rules: plants are placed in places with scattered shade; soil for them should include a large number of peat.

Tip: It is important to choose the right neighborhood for evergreen species of rhododendron, especially when decorating territories in landscape design. It can be all types of conifers, heather, ferns grown in the open field.

• Intermediate (semi-evergreen) - low shrubs that winter well under a layer of snow. The plant is characterized by a compact form, a huge number of flowers during the flowering period. In winter, the main part of the leathery leaves falls off, only a whorl of leaves remains at the ends of the branches, from the center of which new foliage grows.

• Deciduous - rhododendrons of this group are most adapted to the conditions of the Russian climate. Growing these plants is not difficult, and the plants themselves do not need to specially adapt in the winter. Flowering in spring, repeated in autumn.

Planting a plant

Rhododendron: planting and caring for plants in compliance with agrotechnical rules - transplanting plants in spring and autumn is allowed. In autumn - in any of the three months, in spring - in warm, settled weather, when the soil is no longer frozen (usually April or May).

The choice of a place for planting a plant must be carried out with great care. Planting rhododendrons should be protected from the prevailing wind and direct sunlight. It is important that the bush is available for viewing, then decorative look plants during the flowering period will decorate the territory and delight the eye.

Tip: before planting a plant from a container in open ground, it should be thoroughly saturated with water.

A landing pit for rhododendron bushes is prepared based on the actual size of the root system, and should be 2 times larger in volume. Natural soil should be removed completely. For planting a plant, it is required to prepare a special earthen consisting in equal parts of heather land; peat; garden soil or leaf humus; rotted manure; needles (pine).

The prepared pit is filled with a mixture, a place is prepared in it for planting a rhododendron bush, which must be placed strictly vertically. The soil around the root system of the plant must be tightly compressed - the formation of voids and "pockets" in the planting soil is not allowed. At high level ground water, it is necessary to provide for laying a special drainage layer at the bottom of the pit. The top layer of soil after planting should be mulched with peat chips.

Rhododendron: proper watering

Watering of the planted plant is carried out at the time of planting - plentiful, sufficient to moisten the soil to a depth of 20-30 cm. Subsequent watering of the rhododendron should be done with soft, acidified water, with complete soil moisture.

Tip: When planting a plant with buds, it is necessary to remove most of them.

plant care

A transplanted plant requires attention and careful care. In addition to regular abundant watering, rhododendron requires spraying on the foliage, especially when planted in late spring. The soil needs to be mulched to retain sufficient moisture. When mulching, you should choose options that increase the acidity of the soil.

The root system of rhododendrons consists of delicate, thin hairs that look like tangled hair, so loosening the soil, especially deep soil, should be excluded from flower care measures. Weeds growing near the plant must be removed periodically.

The appearance of the plant will immediately report a lack or excess of water - the leaves of the rhododendron will begin to turn yellow and fall off. Watering is required to be carried out in sufficient quantities, but without overflow, this is one of the main rules for caring for a crop.

To ensure proper care of the rhododendron, it is important to carry out timely pruning of overgrown bushes. Places of cuts to prevent infection of the plant are smeared with paint or garden pitch.

Compliance with simple requirements for caring for a plant will allow you to grow a wonderful flowering bush.

Fertilizer and top dressing of rhododendron

In the first year, transplanted plants already require careful fertilization, which is applied in highly diluted form, in small portions. The plant itself will signal the need for fertilizer: it will stop growing, shed its foliage or the leaves will change color, the formation of flower buds will stop.

Organic fertilizer for feeding rhododendron bushes - semi-decomposed manure that needs to be infused in water. Top dressing is carried out aqueous solution manure. To increase the formation of flower buds, as well as to prolong the flowering period, granular superphosphate, or double superphosphate, is used, which is scattered on the moist soil under the plants. Useful for the plant and fertilizing with microelements - fertilizers are applied in the form of watering or spraying the green mass of the bush. Intensively fertilize the bushes until the end of August.

Reproduction of rhododendron

Growing a rhododendron involves propagating the plant by layering and seeds, dividing the bush, grafting, and cuttings.

Reproduction by seeds- a great way to get plants with improved traits. Sowing is carried out from the end of December to the end of March. The second period suitable for seed propagation of rhododendrons is the end of November.

Sowing seeds is carried out in shallow bowls or boxes filled with a nutrient mixture of peat, sand, coniferous and soddy soil, taken in equal proportions. Seeds are pre-soaked for a day. Sowing is carried out on the top layer of soil, without embedding deep into the ground. Sowing is moistened by spraying. It is required to provide seedlings with 12-hour illumination with fluorescent lamps. The timing of seed germination depends on the variety. The first flowering of seedlings is possible in 3-4 years.

This method has its advantages, but with seed propagation of rhododendrons to obtain complete plants spent up to 5-6 years.

New plants can be obtained faster when vegetative methods propagation of culture: cuttings, dividing the bush, rooting layering.

Diseases and pests

Fulfillment of the requirements for agricultural technology of rhododendrons guarantees excellent growth and development of plants. However, repeated overmoistening or overdrying of the soil, alkaline reaction of the soil, sunburn of the leaves, can provoke a surge in crop diseases.

Plants can be damaged by blotches, rust and chlorosis. Disease control measures – improvement of plant conditions, application of special means to fight disease. Often diseases of rhododendrons are caused by pathogenic fungi: gray rot, fusarium, late blight.

Pests that damage rhododendrons: slugs and snails that eat young leaves and buds. The collection of these pests is done manually. In addition, the plant is harmed by: bugs (rhododendron), spider mite, mealybug, weevils, scale insects, rhododendron fly. Getting rid of pests is not difficult with the use of systemic insecticides.

Rhododendron: combination with other plants

Planting plants in combination with conifers and a group of heathers has a positive effect on the development of rhododendrons. In this case, you should remember the height of the rhododendron bush. Low cultivars should be located away from the dense shade of mature trees, but avoiding direct sunlight.

An excellent combination is observed when shade-loving ferns and hosts are located next to the rhododendrons.

Rhododendron in landscape design

In landscape design, rhododendron is an indispensable attribute for planting in partial shade. The huge advantages of the plant are its long and very decorative flowering. Rhododendrons are widely used in the design of heather gardens, as an addition to planting pine groves. The plant looks great in mono plantings.

Low-growing varieties of rhododendrons are planted near alpine hills, in mixborders and in decorative flower beds.

Planting a garden rhododendron: video

To take a break from the oppressive urban environment, go to the country to admire the rhododendron, ornamental shrub heather family. " Pink tree"- wonderful in every way: it has very original leathery leaves and magnificent large inflorescences. But in order for it to bloom intensively, it needs to be intensively looked after: planted in a suitable place, watered in a timely manner, regularly loosened and weeded, properly fed.

If you plan to grow rhododendrons in middle lane(Moscow region), in the Leningrad region, in the Urals or in Siberia, then you should pay attention exclusively to winter-hardy varieties that can withstand a drop in temperature in winter to -25 degrees or more.

Such frost-resistant varieties of rhododendrons include the following: Roseum Elegance, Nova Zembla, Grandiflorum, Golden Lights, White Lights, Rosie Lights, Babushka, Impeditum Golden Lights, English Roseum, Karens, Mount St. Helens, Caractacus, Daursky and PZHM Elite.

In general, rhododendrons can be divided into 2 varieties:

Video: varieties and types of rhododendron

When and how to plant rhododendrons in open ground

Landing dates

You can plant rhododendrons both in spring and autumn. If you decide to plant in the spring, then it is advisable to have time before the plant blooms, in other words, depending on the region (in the Middle lane, the Moscow region a little earlier, in the Urals and Siberia - later), it may be April - May month. Autumn planting of rhododendron is best done in early autumn, it is recommended to be in time before the second half of October. Such periods are explained by the fact that wet and cool weather is ideal for the plant to take root in the garden.

According to the lunar calendar in 2019

It can help you choose the best date for disembarkation Moon calendar.

So auspicious days for planting rhododendron in 2019 according to the lunar calendar are:

• in March - 12-17, 19, 20, 27-30;
• in April - 6-8, 11-13, 15-17, 24-26, 29, 30;
• in May - 6-8, 10-17, 21-23, 26-28, 31;
• in June - 1, 2, 5, 6, 9-13, 16-20, 27-30;
• in July - 8-12, 25-31;
• in August - 2-6, 17, 18, 21-23, 26-28;
• in September - 1-5, 7-10, 17-24;
• in October - 4-7, 9-12, 19-21, 23-25, 27;
• in November - 13-18.

Unfavorable days according to the lunar calendar for 2019 for planting rhododendron are the following dates:

• in March - 6, 7, 21;
• in April - 5, 19;
• in May - 5, 19;
• in June - 3, 4, 17;
• in July - 2, 3, 17;
• in August - 15, 16, 30, 31;
• in September - 14, 15, 28, 29;
• in October - 14, 28;
• in November - 12, 13, 26, 27.

According to lunar calendar from the magazine "1000 tips for summer residents."

Place in the garden for planting

Rhododendron, like all flowering shrubs, still loves the sun. Therefore, find a place for landing sunny or with light partial shade. It is good if from 10-11 in the morning until 4-5 days direct and burning sun rays do not fall on the plant. Moreover, this shrub does not tolerate drafts, but it definitely needs to provide an influx of fresh air. For example, it is good to plant a rhododendron near fruit trees(of the same apple tree), which would slightly shade the shrub during the day, at a distance of about 1.5 meters from the crown.

Advice! Deciduous rhododendrons need more sun than evergreens.

Landing hole and soil

Despite the fact that the pot of rhododendron is usually small, landing pit you need a large enough one, it should be about 3-4 times larger than the root system of the seedling. Dimensions the following are required: depth from 50-90 centimeters, width - 60-80 centimeters (depending on the size of the seedling and soil. If the soil is too clayey, then the pit should be larger).

Important! If the soil in your area is clayey, then drainage material should be laid at the bottom by about 10-15 centimeters. As a drainage, you can use any inert substance, that is, gravel, crushed stone, coarse sand are suitable.

If you want to plant several rhododendrons side by side, then it is advisable to plant them at a distance of at least 1 meter from each other.

Rhododendrons love acidic soils. In ordinary (sandy or clay loamy) these plants grow very poorly, literally 1 season, and then they wither and disappear (as a rule, they simply do not survive the winter). Therefore, to fill the landing pit will require sour high-moor peat. It is sold in ready-made in garden shops or you can dig it up in a forest swamp. You will also need coniferous litter(these are needles and twigs of coniferous trees that have crumbled to the ground, for example, there is pine litter), you can also pick it up in the forest, and you need to collect it not dry (it should be thrown away), namely loose and smelling of mushrooms. Mix these components in equal parts.

Another suitable for rhododendron potting mix recipe: 6 parts of acid high-moor peat, 2 parts of pine bark and 1 part of garden (garden) soil.

Also you can buy in the shop special soil for azaleas(this is a type of rhododendron).

Video: personal experience growing rhododendrons

Direct fit

Step-by-step instructions for planting rhododendrons in open ground:

Video: how to plant rhododendrons

Outdoor rhododendron care

So that the rhododendron grows beautifully and blooms profusely on your suburban area he needs proper and timely care.

Rhododendron, like all heathers, does not tolerate drying out of the soil. And the peat mixture in which this shrub grows dries up very quickly, especially in summer, when the weather is hot. Therefore, it is worth paying attention to the plant regularly and on time. water.

At the end of summer (in August), experienced flower growers recommend stopping watering.

Advice! In the first 2 years, it is highly recommended to do surface spraying in dry weather, in other words, watering directly along the crown.

It is impossible to allow the growth of weeds in the near-stem circle of the shrub. To avoid this, it is necessary to mulch the hole at the planting stage and, if necessary, additionally add mulch, as well as weed and loosen.

top dressing

In early spring rhododendron good feed any . For example, you can prepare a solution ammonium nitrate(20 grams per 10 liters of water), or even better, use a more acidic nitrogen fertilizer - ammonium sulfate.

If your rhododendron bloomed profusely, then to replenish its strength, a mandatory summer top dressing.

As for such dressings, it is advisable to make 2-3 top dressings with acidic fertilizers during the summer. Store-bought fertilizers for azaleas are great for this.

The second dressing of rhododendrons in the summer should be done at the end of July. For this, potassium sulfate should be used (20 grams per 10 liters of water).

Important! At the end of flowering in the first 2-3 years, it is desirable quickly and accurately remove faded inflorescences otherwise they form seed material that draws strength from the rhododendrons.

After the rhododendron has faded, if it feels good and you take good care of it, then it will definitely give young shoots. If they do not appear, then this is a clear signal that the care is incorrect or insufficient (for example, watering).

Video: rhododendron care

Note! About care for rhododendrons in the fall and about their preparation for winter you can read more

How to transplant a rhododendron to a new place

Sometimes it happens that the plant does not take root in one place, and it should be transplanted to a more suitable one. Rhododendrons are not afraid of transplantation, because. they have a fairly compact root system, but you should be guided by some rules for changing the place of residence of the shrub:

1. As for the timing, it is worth replanting the rhododendron, as well as planting it for the first time, either in early spring or in the first month of autumn.
2. It is optimal to transship shrubs in slightly cool and cloudy weather, but not in dry and sunny weather.
3. When you dig up a plant, despite the fact that the root system is small, in no case should it be damaged.
4. It is necessary to dig up a plant together with an earthen clod, which should not crumble when transferred to another place, so the movement must be carried out using a wheelbarrow, placing an earthen clod on it.
5. In the first year after transplantation, it is advisable to cover the shrub for the winter with one of the popular covering materials (for example, spunbond), and this is done in order to protect the plant from burns.

If you liked the pleasant shapes and luxurious flowers of the “alpine rose” (another name for the rhododendron), do not drive away the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bsettling this beautiful shrub in your summer cottage. Proper and energetic planting and care efforts will more than pay off with a really unforgettable spectacle.

Video: planting and caring for rhododendron

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