Distance between doors. Doorway dimensions: generally accepted standards and examples of calculating door dimensions

Regardless of the purpose of the structure, doors and the necessary doorways for their installation are needed to enter it and communicate between rooms. Russian baths are no exception. And it is unlikely that in the near future humanity will come up with a different way to enter, receive hygiene procedures and not to lose beneficial heat during repeated movements. The configuration and size of the doorway by the owners can be chosen arbitrarily. However, the high cost of custom-made doors with non-standard dimensions convinces you to buy ready-made designs. This means that the size of the opening in the bath under construction must correspond to the product chosen for the arrangement, so that they do not have to be subsequently adjusted to each other.

Video about installing a door block in a log house

Door and opening standards

In favor of the purchase of door blocks made at the factory, not only the outstanding price is expressively “verb”, the voice of which will go from a soft whisper to a heart-rending cry when purchasing extensions, seals and fittings.

• Factory door blocks are fully completed and prepared for installation. The owners of the baths can only install them in accordance with the attached instructions.
• Factory-made door frames and leafs, selected with a focus on operating conditions, will not be deformed under conditions of intense vaporization.
• Guarantees are provided, low-quality products can be exchanged without problems.

In case of replacement during the next repair standard size doorway will provide an opportunity to quickly find and buy a similar product. And the installation itself will not require any superhuman efforts, no special skill, no experience.

Differences between foreign and domestic doors

Bathhouse owners are now given the opportunity to equip buildings with products from Russian, Belarusian or Ukrainian manufacturers or buy a door structure made at a Spanish, Italian or French factory.

They regulate the dimensions of doors and the corresponding dimensions of doorways GOST number 6629-88, SNiPs and DINs with numbers from 18100 to 18102. The difference in the widths, heights of doors and openings is insignificant, since all standards are focused on the average physiological parameters of users, but about taking into account the specifics of the country of origin, one should not forget when calculating the opening:

• Height door leaf usually varies around two meters in height. It is 2000 mm ± 100 or 150 mm.
• The width of the leaf of the factory single-leaf door of domestic production is from 600 to 900 mm. Foreign manufacturers on this parameter are in solidarity with ours. Only the French produce canvases with a width less than 1 cm (89 cm, 79 cm, etc.).

The thickness of door structures produced in the CIS is designed for the traditional wall thickness of 75 cm. Special schemes have been developed to increase and decrease it. If they are not provided by the manufacturer, you will need to purchase and install an additional bar.

Please note that the maximum thickness of the factory door block is 128 mm. If there is no money and a desire to install an additional extension on excessively “thick” walls, you can cash out the opening only on the front side, and make a slope on the back or install a self-adhesive flashing.

Fundamentally, the thickness does not affect the choice of the door and the calculation of the opening for it. The basic indicators of height and width are important, the so-called door clearance, starting from which the required values ​​\u200b\u200bare calculated.

How to choose the width of the door clearance

If there are no too well-fed people in the owner's family or among his acquaintances, you should not get carried away with wide bath doors. After all, they will not retain heat in the same way as walls:

• The width of the door clearance preferred by the owners of country baths front door an average of 80 cm. More can be done, taking into account the need to bring in and change bath furniture and equipment.
• For the arrangement of internal partitions, doors with a width of 70 and even 60 cm are sufficient.
• In the steam room, bathroom and shower room, if any, it is better to install doors with a width of 60 cm.

If possible, then for the steam room it is advisable to buy a special door made of linden, and already by its dimensions, with scrupulous accuracy, calculate the size of the opening.

The formula for calculating openings for bath doors

In order to calculate the dimensions of doorways, we use the simplest arithmetic. We will corny denote the height of the door clearance with the letter B, and the width with W. We also need the thickness, that is, the size of a quarter of the box beam. Usually its side is 25 or 30 mm.

• We add the thickness of the right and left beams to the width of the canvas, suppose 25 mm + 25 mm. In order for the door to function normally, you need to leave gaps along the porches. For free operation of the loops, add 2 mm, and for the lock 4 mm. You will also need technological clearances for assembly seams. Right and left 10 mm. Total: W + 2 × 25 + 2 × 10 + 2 + 4 = opening width. So, 76 mm must be added to the width of the canvas.
• Add 10 mm to the height of the door leaf without the threshold. At the top, in addition to the box thickness of 25 mm, add 3 mm and another 10 mm for the gap for the top mounting seam. Total: B + 3 + 25 + 10 + 10. It turns out that 48 mm should be added to the height. The height is calculated from the plane of the finished floor.
• To the height of the door with the threshold, add the thickness of the upper and lower box beams, 3 mm for the free operation of the door at the top and 5 mm at the bottom. Total: B + 2 × 25 + 5 + 3. It turns out that the difference between the height of the canvas and the height of the opening is 58 mm.

It is desirable that the doors in the same room are at the same level, for which you need to perfectly level the floors. If you plan to close the doors, do not forget that their arrangement will also require the installation of platbands.

Features of the formation of openings in wooden baths

They can be formed in the process of erecting crowns from a log or timber. It will be necessary to pre-mark the elements of the log house and make additional grooves for attaching the boxes. After that, it will still be necessary to wait for the time required for the traditional shrinkage of a wooden structure.

A year and a half of the post-construction break must be sustained in any scenario. Installation of door blocks in a wooden bath is only permissible after intensive shrinkage.

It is much easier, having withstood the required technological break, to cut the openings with a chainsaw according to a precisely verified marking. When using this method, in order for the crowns to “not move apart” along the vertical axis of the wall, a groove is made for the installation of a reinforcing beam. The door frame is nailed to it.

Between the top line of the doorway and the frame, be sure to leave 3-5 cm, since wooden structure slightly will settle and subsequently.

It is absolutely easy to calculate the dimensions of doors and doorways. Thoroughly knowing the algorithm for mounting door blocks, specialists will calculate all the necessary values ​​\u200b\u200bin the moment. It is somewhat more difficult for inexperienced performers, since they need to understand why this or that gap is needed.

In case of an error in the calculations, the opening in the wooden box is easy to fix. Need more - use a chainsaw. But to reduce too much clearance, carpenters recommend installing an additional box - a counter box.

In multi-apartment city buildings, the height of the doorway is clearly regulated by the relevant GOSTs and SNiPs, but how to display the dimensions of the doorway if you are building a house yourself and is it really that important? Next, we will analyze the existing standards for doorways, and finally, we will talk about how to correctly choose a door block for a specific “hole” in the wall.

General scheme for measuring a standard opening for a single-leaf door.

Indeed, who needs standard sizes of doorways, wouldn't it be easier to arrange a doorway, the size of which will be exclusive and made specifically for your taste.

The trick is that the standard size is more of a recommendation than a mandatory parameter, but believe me, it’s worth listening to these recommendations and there are several reasons for this:

• Large selection of standard models. Absolutely all manufacturers make the bulk of their goods according to certain fixed dimensions. Therefore, you will not have problems with the choice if the size of the doorway is adjusted to some traditional standard;
• An equally important reason is budget savings. Of course, in any decent workshop you will be made a beautiful door according to individual sizes, but it will cost at least a third more than the serial version, plus keep in mind that sooner or later the doors will have to be changed and there again you will have to pay extra money;
• And finally, any master will confirm to you that it is much easier to work with fixed sizes, because all the extensions, platbands and other fittings for the door are “sharpened” for standard doorways.

What to focus on

First of all, remember: there are standards for interior and exterior doors. In the Soviet Union, there was GOST 6629-88, which is still alive today, but now DIN 18100, DIN 18101 and DIN 18102 have been added to it, the opening dimensions are already taken into account here, taking into account European requirements, as well as standards for iron doors.

Working for this moment GOST 6629-88..

If the documents on the door indicate that they are assembled according to some technical specifications (TU), and not according to generally accepted GOSTs, be careful. The technical conditions are developed by the manufacturer himself and they are only remotely related to the standards, therefore, the dimensions can vary in a fairly large range.

Interior doors

If you live in an apartment or house with ceilings up to 2.7 m, then there the standard opening height often fluctuates around 2 m, with a tolerance of about 100 mm in one direction or another.

The dimensions of openings in residential premises with high ceilings can reach up to 2.3 m. Everything that is higher, for example arches, does not already fall under the generally accepted standard and belongs to the field of individual orders.

There is one more nuance. block houses, that is, brick, cinder block, foam concrete, and so on, are considered stable. Shrinkage in such buildings is minimal and lasts a maximum of a couple of years. This means that a gap of 10 - 15 mm can be left around the perimeter of the door block and this will be quite enough.

Quite a different thing wooden houses. For example, in log cabins shrinkage of the house lasts at least 3 years, and if the forest is poorly dried, then shrinkage can take 7-10 years.

Therefore, a gap of at least 30 - 50 mm must be left above the door frame. This gap is blown with foam and closed with platbands, but if it does not exist, the frame can warp and even crush.

To choose a door, you first need to focus on the size of the door leaf. If you follow our standards, then the width of the leaf for interior doors starts from 600 mm and ends at 900 mm, the graduation comes in increments of 10 cm.

In addition, narrow doors for small apartments and technical rooms are still produced, as a rule, they are installed on bathrooms.

The width of the canvas here is 550 mm, and the height is 1900 mm. They are included in the standard, but they are not particularly popular, so the assortment there is “poor.”

Doors with a leaf width of 60–70 cm are usually installed in the kitchen and services; for rooms, it is better to choose a leaf 80–90 cm wide.

Height of installed frame with door leaf and threshold.

Many owners often "burn" on imported doors. To tell the truth, the single European standard is a beautiful myth, it practically does not touch doors. In the expanses of the former Soviet Union and the camp of the socialist camp is more orderly, here the message of the goods is made according to the above-mentioned GOSTs.

The Germans and Spaniards also adhere to our standards, but the French make doors 10 mm narrower than everyone else, that is, 690 mm, 790 mm and 890 mm.

Reputable Italian manufacturers are more focused on our market, but they are often faked, so do not be lazy, take a tape measure and measure the door block, agree it will be a shame to pay a lot of money for a supposedly Italian thing, which then will not enter or, on the contrary, will “hang out” in the doorway.

A selection of sizes for the most common doorways.

In addition to the height and width of the doorway, you must also take into account the thickness of the walls and the thickness of the doors themselves. The standard thickness for interior walls is 75 mm, but if the opening is made in bearing wall, then there the thickness can reach half a meter or more.

The maximum thickness of a serial door unit is 128 mm. Ideally, the door should be mounted in the center of the opening, but on thick walls, additional trims will have to be installed on both sides.

As an option, you can install the door block along any edge and close it with platbands on one side, and instead of extensions, on the other hand, equip the slopes and cover the non-docking with a self-adhesive flashing.

The width of the installed box with the door leaf.

Cloths of interior doors have several gradations in thickness:

• Lightweight hollow structures are made with a thickness of 20 to 40 mm;
• Standard MDF doors are 35 - 40 mm;
• Wooden sheets with a quarter sample of 35 - 45 mm;
• Fully natural wood without sampling 45 - 55 mm.

Entrance doors

Every year, the size of the opening for the front door moves further and further away from fixed standards. And if the owners of city apartments are forced to adapt to the finished opening, then in private houses each owner has his own views, because often input the door is made to order and rarely changes.

If we talk about standards, then the height here is no different from the interior version, that is, from 2000 mm to 2300 mm.

But the minimum width of the doorway for the front door starts from 900 mm. An exception is made only for wooden canvases, which can be 800 mm.

But entrance doors are not only for apartments or houses, there are also doors for entrances, offices, small shops, etc. In these cases opening width may be unpredictable, but there is a way out.

According to the standard, the minimum at the entrance door you have chosen cannot be less than 80 cm, the maximum for single-leaf structures is 90 cm.

Equal-sized structures, that is, those doors where both canvases are the same size, are more often installed on wide openings of administrative buildings, lorries are usually chosen for entrances and private houses, but they also have their own standardization:

(Main sash width + Secondary sash width)

• 800 mm + 300 mm;
• 800 mm + 400 mm;
• 800 mm + 800 mm;
• 900 mm + 500 mm;
• 900 mm + 900 mm.

Double metal doors for an apartment with different doors.

What it looks like in practice

When installing doors, there are 3 main questions:

1. How will the doors be installed?
2. What size should the door block be;
3. What fittings and accessories are needed.

The front door is a reliable barrier to intruders entering the house. An important point is the choice of a lock for a similar design, which allows you to enhance protection. Locks come in various types and classes of burglary resistance. It is necessary to correctly approach the process of selecting and installing locking products. Installation is not difficult, but follow the instructions.

Inserting a suitable lock into a wooden door

Attention! AT country houses often mount wooden doors. The question arises how to embed. The process itself is typical, so it is important to follow the instructions, choosing the right tools for this. The lock itself must fit the door in order to achieve positive results and durability of operation.

What tools are needed?

The first thing you need is to pick up the lock itself and the required tools for installation. Among the most necessary are the following:

1. Chalk and a simple pencil, which will be required for marking.
2. Electric drill. To her - a set of drills for woodworking. Their sizes are from 2 to 7 mm.
3. Chisels. They must be sharp. Two pieces are enough - wide and narrow.
4. Roulette and square to it.
5. A hammer.
6. Rasp with a large notch or round file.
7. Screwdriver. If not, use an ordinary screwdriver.

After the tools are prepared, they begin to work. Installation is considered more difficult than overhead installation. In the latter case, there is no need to cut a suitable hole, so installing a lock or latch on the door is simple. In any case, it is important to know how to do it correctly and what to consider.

Installed lock with a handle on a wooden door

The tie-in of the lock of any type in wooden door may be needed for various reasons. The most common is building a house and installing doors, mechanisms, handles and latches. However, changing the lock on a wooden door is also common. The reasons are long-term operation, breakdown, problems with functioning or hacking. In any of these cases, it becomes necessary to establish mortise lock at the wooden door.

How to get started?

The first stage of installation is the creation of a special groove or hole for the lock body. To do this, you need to markup to determine at what height to mount the product. Most often, the height reaches 90-100 cm from the floor. But this size varies depending on the ease of use. The height is selected for people who will use the lock or latch and handle.

Creating a groove for the bar with a chisel

After you have determined the height, the markup is performed. To do this, the lock is applied to the door with the part that will be mounted in the hole on the canvas. With the help of chalk or pencil circle the body of the product. The result is a label that allows you to understand where the locking mechanism will be located.

The hole is cut with a drill bit. In this case, it is worth giving preference to the product that corresponds in width to the thickness of the castle. Drilling a hole is done in different ways. The first method involves carefully and gradually moving the drill inside the door leaf by 1-2 centimeters until the required mark is reached. The second method involves immediately drilling a hole.

The hole itself should be larger than the width of the lock body by 1-2 mm. This will ensure that the lock enters the created hole without obstruction. It is recommended to keep the drill perpendicular to the end of the door and parallel to the surface. Aligning the edges of the hole is done with a hammer and chisel.

Marking the lock on the end of the door leaf

Important! To hide the lock in the hole, make it deeper by 2-3 mm than the width of the case.

The marking of the bar and its installation is carried out in a similar way. To do this, it is applied to the resulting hole and circled along the contour with a pencil. Knocking out along the marked lines is best done with a chisel so as not to spoil the edges of the lock hole.

The next step is the hole for the mechanism

To install in a wooden door, you should take care of the presence of a hole for the mechanism of the product. Only after that you can put a lock or latch in the door, proceed with the installation of the handle. The installation of the mechanism itself or the larva involves precise marking. To do this, the lock body is applied opposite the previously obtained groove. Fasteners are marked on the door leaf with a pencil. After that, the holes are drilled using a drill that fits the diameter.

Fastening a latch on a wooden door

As a result, grooves are obtained, the edges of which should be carefully leveled. It is best to use a file for these purposes, which will help you quickly deal with the problem. If you plan to additionally install a latch or handle, it is important to know how to properly insert the lock in this case. Installation is reduced to drilling additional holes for the rods and screws that act as fasteners for the latch or handle.

We can assume that the preparation for inserting the lock is completed. The lock should be inserted into the prepared grooves and secured with appropriate fasteners. All elements are fastened with self-tapping screws and bolts, the need to use additional elements no.

Last steps of installation work

The final stage of work is the creation of a hole in the door frame for normal functioning the lock itself, the latch or the doorknob. If you omit this moment, the door will not close properly and fit snugly. This should be done only after you have made sure that the lock is functioning normally, that there are no problems or jamming.

To mark the hole, a small amount of chalk is applied to the tongue or crossbars of the mechanism. After that, the door is closed by turning the mechanism. As a result, a trace of chalk can be seen on the jamb. Here it is necessary to create holes for the crossbars of the mechanism or the tongue of the handle.

The principle of cutting holes is similar to cutting a hole for the lock or latch itself. There are no differences here. You can use a drill or a hammer with a chisel, being careful not to remove excess material. If the markup is done correctly, as a result you will get holes into which the lock bolts enter without problems. Now fasten the striker plate in accordance with the markings. As fasteners, special self-tapping screws are used. On this, the installation of the lock is considered complete, and the door is ready for operation.

Final stage installation work installing a lock on a wooden door

Now you know how to insert a lock and a handle to it. In general, the installation of the mechanism is not complicated and is available for self-fulfillment. Experts recommend that before installing a lock, latch, handle and other mechanisms, carefully read the instructions. This will allow you to understand how to install the lock and latch handle correctly, how to avoid problems and ensure long-term operation. If there are problems, it is worth contacting professionals who will quickly correct the situation that has arisen, providing your home reliable protection from intruders.

A man should be able to do any job around the house: nail a shelf, fix a faucet, or put a lock on a door. All this work requires not only skillful hands but also knowledge. The following will be instructions on how to embed the lock in the door correctly. This process is not that difficult, but it requires a certain level of training that any homeowner should have.

A set of necessary elements for mortise lock

In order to embed the locking element into the door correctly the first time, without damaging the material and without deforming the surface, you need to have the necessary set of tools at hand. You can not do without a drill or screwdriver, which must have the function of drilling. This is necessary in order to make a hole in the door. To cut a hole of the correct shape and right size, you will need a set of round nozzles.

They are good for drilling wood. You also need to have a hammer and a chisel on hand, with which it is easy to grind the hole and place a device for closing the doors in it. In order to make the necessary measurements, you will need a tape measure, ruler or centimeter. To mark the desired points on the very surface of the door, you can use a simple pencil. To fix the lock, you can not do without a screwdriver. That's all the basic tools that are required to do-it-yourself lock tie-in.

Before inserting the closing mechanism, it is necessary to determine its location on the surface of the door. In order to choose the most convenient position of the lock and handle, you should simply try to open an imaginary door while standing in front of the surface of the door without a lock. At what level the hand will be, there you need to make a hole in order to open and close it easily and comfortably. In the event that there is a child in the family, you need to install the lock a little lower so that the child does not experience discomfort when manipulating the lock handle. The place that was determined empirically must be marked with a pencil directly on the surface of the door. Preparatory work over!

Plane marking for work

The next step in the process of inserting the closing device is to make a hole in the material of the door. Before drilling, you need to accurately determine the place where the drill with the crown should be located. To do this correctly, you need to take the closing mechanism itself and use a tape measure to determine the distance from its visible edge to the pin hole, which organizes the entire operation of this device.

It is this distance from the edge of the door that should be noted at the height that was previously determined. After the place for drilling is determined, you need to choose the right bit for the drill.

Proper selection of drill bits is the key to quality work

The main difficulty in choosing a crown for drilling is correct selection its diameter. It should be wide enough for the closing mechanism to pass through, and narrow enough so that the hole is not visible due to the outside of the latch. To do this, you need to measure the height of the visible part of the latch and subtract a few centimeters from this distance. With this hole diameter, the mechanism should fit inside the door space, but the hole will not be visible under the cover of the lock body.

For those who are afraid to make a mistake in the calculations, there are special crowns that are made to make holes for door locks. Typically, these crowns are sold in a set of 2 tools. different diameter. After the necessary measurements of the hole diameter are made, you can start drilling. In the drilling process, there is one trick that allows you to work efficiently. To do this, you need to drill not on one side, but on both. First, drill to the middle of one side, then the other. So the hole will turn out to be as even and smooth as possible.

How to cut a hole in the butt?

After the hole on the plane has been cut, do the same at the end of the door. The mechanism for closing the door will be inserted into this space, so you need to make a hole carefully and carefully. The drill bit must be directed so that it is exactly in the middle of the door end. The size of the crown must be selected according to the principle similar to the process of selecting the diameter of the hole on the surface. In order for the tie-in of the lock to be considered complete, you need to make one more small touch. It is required to make a small recess so that the latch can be completely hidden in the end. If this is not done, it may cling to the door jamb, which will create problems with opening the door.

Then you need to insert the closing mechanism into the hole and circle its entire visible part. with a simple pencil. After that, the latch can be pulled out. Now you need to scrape out the void inside the door with a chisel. The recess that should result from this work should be sufficient to accurately accommodate the outer plate. This work must be done as carefully as possible, since too much empty space can ruin the door, and the mechanism will stagger. Therefore, it is desirable to have experience with a chisel.

Installing a lock in a hole

When all the holes and recesses are ready, you can proceed to the final part - installing the lock. It is very important not to make a mistake. At first it may seem that there is no difference between the sides of the locking device. However, if it is equipped with a stopper, then there is this difference. The handles of the lock most often actually rotate in both directions, but the stopper only works in one direction. Therefore, it is necessary that it be directed towards the end. The stopper can be operated with a key or a separate latch.

Hole for the lock tongue in the door jamb

The main thing is not to forget that the hole for the latch tongue should also be on the door jamb. To do it right, you need to start measuring after the lock has been embedded, and the door itself is hung on hinges. This hole should be where the tongue rests against the door jamb. The depth of the hole should not be less than the lock tongue. It is most convenient to make a recess in the door jamb with a chisel.

Every man should know how to embed the lock inside the door on his own.

Of course, many would entrust this matter to a professional, but it is always more pleasant to do the difficult work yourself. Then the result will bring real pleasure, and the person will receive invaluable experience.

You bought, say, a new interior door and decided to assemble the door frame yourself and install this very door without any experience. Well, it happens that some things have to be done for the first time. The most important thing here is to take your time and be attentive to what you are doing.

When for the first time I had to install interior doors in one of the apartments, I must admit that when sawing the first box, I made a mistake. As a result, I had to buy a new set of boxes. Ever since then, I have been very attentive and accurate when doing the work of assembling and installing doors.

When cutting elements door frame there is no room for error, you need to remember this. As the saying goes, measure twice, cut once!
So, the door has been brought in and is standing in the corridor, perhaps for the second week already. There is nowhere else to put it off and it's time to get down to business. A reasonable question arises. Where to start?

Marking the door leaf for tie-in

You should start by marking on the door leaf the place where it will be recessed latch handle. The door leaf is, in fact, the door itself without additional elements, boxes, extensions and platbands.

To begin with, decide in which direction the door will open, the position of the bevel of the latch tongue will depend on this. Now you need to determine the height at which the door handle will be located. As a rule, the handle is cut at a height of 90-100 cm from the floor or threshold. In rooms, of course, there are no thresholds. But in the bathroom or toilet, they are very possible.

In a box with door handle, you will almost certainly find instructions with the dimensions for which you need to markup. Often the dimensions are indicated on the box itself. Ordinary handles are almost always installed in the same pattern. Construction tool stores sell special kits for inserting handles into the canvas of interior doors. The set consists of a pen drill, 23 mm in diameter. and crowns for wood, with a diameter of 50-54 mm.

So, mark a distance of 95 cm on the end of the door leaf. Using a square, draw a clear line perpendicular to the end of the leaf. Mark the middle on it and pierce it. You can pierce with any sharp object, an awl, a nail or a self-tapping screw. At this point, you will need to drill a hole for the latch. But don't rush, it's not time yet!

Need to continue pen markings, or speaking professionally, for knoba. To do this, you need to continue the line at the end further to the canvas itself on both sides. This must be done strictly perpendicular to the door leaf, using a square. It would be useful to recall that the pencil must be sharply sharpened.

Here you should pay attention to one detail. The handle can be positioned at a distance of 60 or 70 mm. from the edge. To do this, the adjustable latch length design allows. Decide which distance suits you best, and mark the desired distance on both sides of the canvas on the lines drawn earlier.

Please note that on a blank canvas, that is, on one that does not have decorative elements in the form of planks, glasses, and other things, the distance from the edge at which the handle will be embedded is not critical. After all, the canvas is absolutely flat and smooth. But the presence of decorative inserts can limit the location of the handle. And if you decide to embed the handle at a distance of 70 mm. from the edge of the door leaf, make sure that the handle does not block decorative elements. Otherwise, make a mark of 60 mm. from the edge.

Drilling a hole for the handle

drilled first pen hole, then for latches. It is more comfortable. Firstly, when you start drilling the end, you will know exactly when to stop, and secondly, all the chips will simply fall down when drilling the end, and you will not need to sweep or blow it out with a vacuum cleaner, which is very inconvenient.

So, take a drill, fix a wood crown (50-54 mm.) into the chuck and start drilling from one of the sides, having previously marked the marked point. Do not try to drill through the entire canvas "in one go". Firstly, you will not have enough depth of the crown itself, and secondly, the teeth of the crown will become clogged with sawdust, the crown will get very hot and burn the tree, and the deeper, the stronger. We just needed a fire!

Having drilled 4-6 mm, without turning off the drill, pull it towards you, removing the crown from drilled hole. There is no need to turn on the reverse and generally make sudden movements. Everything should happen smoothly, but surely.

Clean the teeth of the crown from sawdust. Be careful, it can be very hot! It all depends on the material of the door leaf and the degree of its humidity. The denser the material and the wetter, the more the crown heats up. But the crown with blunt, worn teeth is heated most of all. Never use this! Buy a new one is my advice.

After cleaning the teeth of the crown, and allowing it to cool if necessary, immerse it in the place where it was taken out some time ago, and continue this important mechanical operation to obtain the much-needed hole. As I already mentioned, the crown, due to its limited depth, will not allow the canvas to pass through. Having drilled halfway, you should go to the other side and repeat the whole operation again. Here you need to be more careful. Approaching the middle of the canvas, do not press hard, let yourself enjoy the last seconds of this exciting process! Otherwise, you run the risk of slipping through the crown and hitting the door leaf hard with a drill. And we don’t want to scratch it or leave a dent, right?

Drilling a hole for the latch

Let's move on to the next step. We take out the crown from the drill chuck, not forgetting about its elevated temperature. We clamp a feather drill with a diameter of 23 mm into the chuck. Pay attention to the photo. It shows that the size of 25 mm is stamped on the drill. But be calm, no cheating! It’s just that I didn’t have a drill of the required diameter, and I used a “perk” of 25 mm, after grinding its edges with a grinder to the desired diameter. Here's a little trick, take note.

Drilling must be strictly perpendicular to the end of the door leaf. At first it seemed to me that it was very difficult to control. I mean perpendicularity. But then I realized that this is easy to do, just watching how evenly the drill selects the circle. This is especially noticeable at the beginning of drilling, and having gone a little deeper, you can hardly worry that the drill will deviate from the set course. But this does not mean at all that you can relax and look not at the drill, but at a cat sprinkled with sawdust passing by.

Installing a latch for an interior door

Well, what! The drilling of the holes is completed, now you need to drown the latch bar into the end of the door leaf so that it is “flush” with the plane. Professionals do this with a manual milling machine, but not everyone has one, so you have to work with a hammer and chisel.

Insert the latch into the hole and circle it with a sharpened pencil. In order to keep the plank in place during the stroke, I usually immediately drill holes for the fastening screws and twist them slightly, fixing the plank. After circling the bar, remove the latch and grab the chisel. Do I need to say that the chisel should be not just sharp, but very sharp?!

Installing a lock on the interior door will increase the comfort of living. This is very convenient, as it allows you to limit the access of a small child to those rooms where he can interfere with adults or get injured. Therefore, cutting a lock is a fairly common job that almost any homeowner can do.

In the process of performing work on embedding the lock, the following tools will be required:

• The lock itself, with a set of handles and bolts
• Square and pencil
• Drill
• Crown drill, 5 cm in diameter
• 23 mm spade drill
• Chisel
• Screwdriver or screwdriver.

The presence of the entire set of tools will allow you to perform all stages of work quickly and accurately. If something is missing, then it is better to ask friends or acquaintances for a tool than to try to do without them, as this will lead to poor performance and unsatisfactory appearance.

markup

Usually the handle is located at a height of about a meter from the floor, so it will be convenient for people of any height to use. Therefore, we measure 95 - 100 cm from the bottom edge of the canvas and make a mark. Then, at the selected level, using a square, mark the centers of future holes. On the end plane, the center of the lock will be in the middle, and on the side plane, it is necessary to step back from the edge of 6 - 10 cm. This is the place of the future lock and handle.

drilling

Drilling holes for the lock starts from the end. A drill bit is installed in the drill and a hole about three centimeters deep is drilled exactly in the marked center. This is the place for the tongue of the castle.

After that, a crown drill with a diameter of 5 centimeters is installed in the drill. With it, holes are drilled from the sides. If there is no certainty that it will be possible to drill a hole horizontally, without skew, then it is necessary to mark and drill from both sides. In this case, the drilling depth is equal to half the thickness of the door. If everything is done correctly, then you get a round through hole with a diameter of 5 centimeters, which has a side hole with a diameter of 23 millimeters.

Before installing the lock, it is necessary to cut out the notch for the latch. To do this, the lock is inserted into the door and the latch plate is circled with a pencil. Along this contour, with the help of a chisel and a hammer, a notch with a depth of about 3–5 mm is selected, depending on the thickness of the plate. At the same time, a notch for the tongue is cut out on the door jamb according to the size of the special lining. It is in it that the tongue of the lock will enter and fix the door in the closed state. When both notches are ready, the lock and notch on the jamb are fixed on the screws that usually come with the kit.

Installing handles

The further process does not cause any difficulties. The handle with screws is put in its place first. The screws are unscrewed, and the handle is inserted into the lock. To do this, the handle has a special square-section rod that passes through the corresponding hole in the lock. After that, a second handle is put on this rod from the other side and fixed with screws. Then decorative overlays and the handles themselves are put on. This completes the installation process.

After that, it remains only to remove the debris and tools.

Helpful notes

Even if you are confident in your abilities and know how to drill, it is better to work with a coronary drill from two sides. This will ensure a neat cut and there will be no chips and scuffs on the surface of the door that will ruin it. appearance.

It is better to drill a notch for the lock at the end of the door after the hole for the handles has been drilled. So you will be sure that the hole is fully connected to the main one. Otherwise, it may be necessary to drill a channel for the lock.

When choosing a recess for the lock plate, work must begin with the contour. With light blows, the entire contour is outlined, and only after that the wood is selected. This will prevent chips and cracks from appearing.

Do not overtighten the screws on the handles. The fixation should be tight, but not excessive. Otherwise, dents may appear on the surface of the door, spoiling its appearance.

Video How to make a lock in the door

After installation, the question inevitably arises of how to insert a lock into an interior door. The door should be tightly closed, easy to open and securely fixed in the opening. All these tasks are easily handled by a lock or a latch with a latch.

If possible, it is better to purchase doors with locks and handles already installed. Otherwise, this issue will have to be resolved by inviting the master or installing locks with your own hands.

Castle selection

As well as fittings, the castle must be in harmony with the interior, combined with the texture and colors environment. To a greater extent, it depends on the design of the lining and handles.

As for functionality, two types of mechanisms are suitable for interior doors:

• Mortise lock with or without separately mounted handle.
• Latch lock. As a rule, it is located in the handle itself and has a rounded shape.

AT recent times the installation of a magnetic door lock became popular. Such a device often eliminates the need to install push or turn type handles.

Using a magnetic mechanism is simple, and installing a magnetic lock with your own hands does not require the use of a special tool. The installation of a magnetic device is resorted to in cases where it is necessary to ensure noiseless operation and complete absence risk of scratching on the tongue or crossbars.

However, the installation of a lock in an interior door, depending on its type, has its own characteristics.

The thickness of the embedded door device should be no more than a third of the width of the end. It is recommended to work with exceptionally well-sharpened tools. The lock is not recommended to be mounted at the junction of the door bars.

Required Tools

To properly insert the lock into the door with your own hands, you should prepare the appropriate tool:

• Drill and a set of drill bits for wood.
• Milling cutter, chisel and carpenter's knife.
• A hammer.
• File.
• Screwdriver.
• Ruler or tape measure, pencil or chalk.

Insert Features

Door material can be very different. Solid wood products are the easiest to work with. The canvas is homogeneous, it is impossible to assemble the structure yourself and it is impossible to make a mistake with the insertion point. The tree is more difficult to drill, but the likelihood of errors and flaws when working with your own hands is greatly reduced.

MDF doors are the most problematic in this matter. This is due to the fact that it is very important to hit the power beam, which is located by default at a height of one meter from the floor. It's easy to remove the old one and install the new one.

Do-it-yourself installation of a mortise lock in PVC doors is not recommended. Without good skills professional tool Not sure it's going to happen. The fact is that mistakes are almost impossible to correct.

For this, the same tools are used plus carbon paper or plasticine. With their help, crossbar marks are made on the jamb in the fully closed position of the door.

Lock installation

For do-it-yourself installation, there is a special algorithm or work technology. To do everything right, you need to do the work in the following order:

• The first step is to remove the door. You need to remove cash. You will also have to remove the old lock.
• Then the interior door should be removed from the hinges and put on the edge of the floor with the hinges down.
• Then you need to measure the height, thickness and width of the lock body.
• 100 cm are measured from the bottom end of the canvas and a mark is applied. The second is planned from it at a distance equal to the height of the castle.

• Further, between the marks, two parallel lines are applied in the middle of the end of the leaf, spaced from each other by the thickness of the locking product. As a result, at the end of the door you should get a rectangle exactly under the lock body.
• Now holes are drilled inside our rectangle. The drill should be equal to or slightly smaller in diameter than the thickness of the lock body. The first hole is made in the center, and then above and below. The depth of the hole should correspond to the width of the lock, but first holes are made one cm deep, and then deepened to the desired size.
• Then the chisel comes into play. With its help, the correct cutout for the lock is formed. In the same way, a separate cutout is made under the handle.
• Now a cutout is made for the handle and the lock from the side of the canvas. The body of the lock is applied to the canvas and the position point of the axis of the mechanism is marked. At this point, a cutout is made for a cylinder or keyhole.
• When all cutouts are ready, the process of direct installation begins. The lock is inserted inside and, after checking the functionality, is fastened with self-tapping screws to the door. The lining on the end is screwed with self-tapping screws, also included in the kit.
• Handles are inserted and pads are screwed on.
• The door rises and hangs again on its hinges.
• Then markup is made for the answer on the jamb. The door is closed and the position of the tongue is marked. An overlay is applied and its extreme positions are marked.
• Cutouts are made in the same way, after which the overlay is screwed with self-tapping screws.

Latch Installation

First, the insertion point is marked. This is done using the paper template supplied with the kit. As a rule, the latch is placed at the intersection of the following lines:

• A horizontal floor held at a height of one meter.
• Vertical, drawn 6-7 cm from the edge of the canvas. This dimension depends on the depth of the latch latch.

On the video you can see the installation:

Then the handle mechanism is inserted and the size of the sample under the lock bar is marked with a pencil. The sample can be made with a chisel. The handle is attached with screws.

After that, the parts of the knob are connected with screws and a decorative ring is mounted. Then the door is closed, and the position of the striker is marked on the jamb. On the box, a selection is made for the tongue. A sample of 2 mm is made under the porch bar. Everything is fixed with screws.

As you can see, there is nothing supernatural. It is quite possible to put a lock with your own hands, if everything is done slowly and carefully. After installation, it makes sense to check the strength of the fasteners, the fixation of the linings, the handle and the lock body. If all is well, the castle will last a long time.

; lifting and sliding). Swing doors are the most widely represented on the market.

Basic terms and definitions

single leaf door– standard door with one door leaf (leaf).
double door- a door with two leaves: active and shtulpovy. The active leaf is used for frequent use of the door. The sash sash serves to provide the possibility of increasing the standard door opening if necessary.
pendulum door- a door that opens at least 90 degrees on both sides of the door plane in the closed position.
swing door - a door that opens only in one direction and closes in contact with the door frame element
Door opening direction: Depending on the opening direction of the leaf, left and right doors are distinguished. The direction of opening of the door is determined by the side on which the hinges are visible:

Door overlap height- the distance between the front plane of the sash and the door frame in the closed position

Classification

In accordance with GOST 30970-2002 PVC doors classified according to the following main features:

appointment;

type of door leaf filling;

variant of a constructive solution;

design of profile systems;

type of finish.

Classification by purpose

By appointment, door blocks are divided into:

• outdoor (entrance to buildings, structures, as well as vestibules);
• internal (interior, for plumbing units, entrance to the apartment and other door blocks intended for operation inside the building).

Classification by type of door leaf filling

According to the type of door leaf filling, door blocks are divided into:

• glazed (filled with double-glazed windows or various types sheet glass: patterned, tempered, multilayer, reinforced, etc.);
• deaf (filled with panels or other opaque materials);
• light (with translucent filling of the upper part and deaf filling of the lower part of the canvas);
• decorative (with a complex architectural pattern).

Classification by design options

By options constructive solutions door blocks are divided into:

• single-floor (left and right-hand execution), double-floor (with shtulp or non-mullioned porch, including with canvases of different widths), with vertical mullion and adjacent blind or translucent box filling;
• with a transom (opening or non-opening);
• with a threshold on mechanical links, without a threshold, with a closed frame box (an option in which the bottom bar of the box is welded to the vertical ones and has the same profile).

Classification according to the design of profile systems

According to the design of profile systems, door blocks are divided into products with two-, three- or more chamber profiles.

Classification by type of profile finishing

According to the type of profile finishing, door blocks are divided into:

• white, dyed in mass;
• colored, dyed in mass;
• trimmed with decorative film (laminated);
• with co-extruded face covering;
• painted with paints.

In accordance with this classification, GOST 30970-2002 adopted the following structural designation scheme:

Technical requirements

GOST 30970-2002 DOOR BLOCKS FROM POLYVINYL CHLORIDE PROFILES also contains the following sections:

• Technical requirements (include: General provisions and design requirements Dimensions and requirements for limit deviations; Characteristics; Requirements for PVC profiles and reinforcing inserts; Requirements for filling door panels and sealing gaskets; requirements for doors).
• Acceptance rules
• Control methods
• Packing, transportation and storage
• manufacturer's warranty

In this article, I present only the main performance characteristics deaf external and entrance door blocks to the apartment in accordance with GOST 30970-2002:

Brief information about fittings for PVC doors

After assembling the frame and sash, the necessary fittings are installed on PVC doors (an example is shown in the figure). Due to the wide variety of fittings, it is rather difficult to give complete information on it in one article. More detailed information on fittings for PVC doors can be found. In this section, I will dwell in more detail only on the question of the difference in the configuration of the PVC door, on which the door fittings are installed, from the so-called "balcony" door, assembled from a narrow window profile. There is a fundamental difference between these two configurations. The fact is that even the narrowest (with dm = 20 mm) lock for PVC doors cannot be correctly installed in a window (narrow PVC profile). Therefore, parts of window fittings are installed on the "balcony" doors (main constipation, window handle, window hinges). Door fittings are not suitable for these parts (you cannot put a door set, because it will not fit the window main constipation installed on the balcony door).

Regulatory requirements for door fittings

REGULATORY DOCUMENTS AND CERTIFICATION:

At installation of interior doors in an apartment should be carried out according to certain rules that customers should know. After all, about Mistakes in the repair and decoration of a room or apartment can seriously complicate installation and cost a pretty penny!

You will be able to reduce the cost of installation, avoid mistakes in the choice of doors, fittings and sizes of openings, help the craftsmen to do everything with high quality.

Door opening dimensions

• opening width

The door leaf is usually 60/70/80/90 cm wide. The correct width of the opening is the width of the canvas +8 or +9 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is from 1.5 cm to 2.5), or +10 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is 2.5 cm and above ).

• opening height

For all occasions correct height opening is the height of the door leaf + 6 cm. from the finished floor, that is, 206 cm. The doors to the bathroom can be 190 cm high, so the correct opening height is 196 cm.

Here are some examples of correct openings.:

• Canvas 80x200(cm) - opening 89x206(cm)
• 70x200 - opening 79x206
• 60x200 - opening 69x206
• 60x190 - opening 69x196

The dimensions of the doorways must be determined in advance and it is very important to independently constantly monitor your team during the repair process.

Door width for different rooms

If you have the opportunity to plan the width of doors and openings in advance and have questions about what door width to choose, then follow these recommendations:

• doors in rooms are usually made 80 cm wide in order to be able to bring in / take out furniture. Width 90cm. it happens very rarely, since such canvases are heavy and can eventually sag on the hinges.
• the doors in the bathroom are usually made 60-70 cm so that washing machine 60cm thick. Keep in mind that 60cm. the door assembly has a clear opening of approximately 58cm. because of the porches in the door frame.
• the door leaf to the kitchen is usually made 70-80cm. It should also be taken into account that the handles on both sides can interfere with the passage to the kitchen.
• in dressing room usually make the width 60-70cm.

When do you need to install extensions?

When installing interior doors, if the wall thickness is greater than the thickness of the door frame, it is recommended to purchase. You can, of course, stick wallpaper on the ends of the walls, but it will look out of date, and there will be nothing to nail trim on the other side of the wall.

If installed, it will good decision, which will beautifully decorate the slopes. The color of the extensions can be chosen, for example, under the MDF panel.

The width of standard extensions according to the warehouse program is usually 10/12/15/20 cm. If your walls are very thick (more than 20 cm), then the extensions must be spliced ​​in width or non-standard extensions must be ordered at the factory, which will cost much more.

On which side of the door should the extensions be installed?

It depends entirely on how you planned the opening. Usually, if your door opens into a room, then the box is flush with the room wall, and the extension will be in the corridor, respectively.

If you do the opposite, the door will not open fully (it will rest against the extension). Sometimes they put up with this so that the doors look the same - ALL extensions to the corridor or all extensions to the rooms. Therefore, this is already a matter of convenience and design, taking into account the future arrangement of furniture in the apartment.

Scheme of opening interior doors

Usually, if in one corridor some of the doors will open into the corridor, and some into the rooms, the closed doors will look different due to the features of the door frame. If the doors are next to each other, and at the same time open one inward and the other outward, then the height of the upper trim will not match.

This is what the door looks like from the common corridor, which opens into the corridor, that is, towards us:
This is how the door that opens into the room looks like, that is, inside:
It is necessary to ensure that the canvas does not cover the switch when torn off. It is highly desirable that the doors do not intersect with their trajectories. The bathroom must be provided with a 180-degree opening for quick ventilation after taking water procedures.

Make sure that a door opened 90 degrees does not block the opening of an adjacent door.

In order not to waste time coordinating the opening of doors with the masters during installation, make a diagram on a piece of paper in advance.

How high from the floor should the door be?

Standard height - 1 cm from the finished floor. As for the doors of the bathrooms, it is not recommended to do less than 1 cm so as not to disturb the air flow. If you have plastic windows do not forget to make supply valves for air from the street so as not to increase the humidity in the apartment too much when the windows are closed.

Installation of interior doors during the repair of an apartment and the sequence of stages of work.

In order to protect the wooden parts of the doors from warping due to high humidity during repairs, it is necessary to do the installation after ALL finishing work, including in neighboring rooms.

Early installed doors may be accidentally damaged by tools during the repair process. Tile or wallpaper glue, especially plaster, dry for quite a long time, releasing moisture into the room. Humidity levels above 70% for several days increase the risk that doors will pick up moisture from the air, swell, and stop closing properly.

However, if you like to wash your bathtub or shower often, humidity is not a threat, as the bathroom is quickly ventilated.

Installation of interior doors should be done if you already have a finished floor!

Without doors, it is much easier to lay floor coverings, and then it is easier to install them, with a clear adjoining of the trim to the floor.

If you first install the box directly on the screed (main floor), then it is impossible to bring the flooring under the box, since it is already on the floor. In addition, it is difficult for the master to correctly calculate the lower clearance of the door from the subfloor, taking into account the future coating, especially if the floor has not been leveled.

If you did everything right and did the installation after laying the finished floor, it will not be difficult to replace the floor in the future - you just need to pull out the laminate or parquet from under the door pillars and slip a new coating. In this case, the racks will not fall, but will remain hanging.

What if the doorway is much higher (wider) than the box?

A common mistake of repair crews is too high openings, because the maximum height should not be higher than 208~209 cm, and 206 cm is better. from the floor covering.

Sometimes in new buildings standard opening can be 217-220cm high. This is due to the fact that many customers make underfloor heating and the height after their installation becomes standard. If no one paid attention to this during the repair, and a situation arose when the upper casing did not close the opening.

Solution: if your opening is higher than necessary, and there is no possibility to reduce the opening, glue the wallpaper lower before installing the doors, or order high capitals instead of the upper casing, but they are usually mounted from the side of the corridor. A more thorough way is to lower the height of the opening with drywall and wooden blocks and then glue the wallpaper.

Another option: if the platbands are flat, cut off at the joints at 90 degrees, and the upper platband is cut out of the wider extensions. Some customers get out of the situation this way. The disadvantage is that sometimes the additional strips are thicker than the casing, and that if you do this for all the doors in the apartment, it will look a little wild)).

If the opening is at least 2-3 cm wider than necessary from the sides, the foam joint will not have sufficient strength, and this is important, since the mounting foam helps maintain even gaps and ensures the overall resistance of the door to loads.

Solution: narrow the doorway with a wooden beam with a section of 3x5, 5x5 or at the repair stage using foam blocks and tile adhesive.

How to straighten a crooked doorway?

First you need to check the walls to the right and left of the opening for humps / depressions by attaching a long rule, an extension or a flat board to the wall. Especially often humps are found closer to the floor. Even one small hump will interfere with the tight fit of the casing to the wall.

To solve this problem, there is only one option: to plaster and level the walls. If you do not want or cannot level the walls in the entire apartment or wall, then do it only around the openings (about 50 cm wide) and paste the wallpaper.

Then you need to check the verticality of the walls using a laser or bubble level. The ends of the openings must be parallel, the walls must be even and strictly vertical. If the opening is curved, the walls are sloping, there are humps or depressions, act according to circumstances.

If you understand that the opening is a curve, and moves away from the vertical by more than 1 cm - you can level the walls with plaster according to the lighthouses, putting them on a vertical level and re-paste the wallpaper. As you already understood, this is the best and most difficult solution!

How to install a door in a curved opening?

But what if there is no way to level the wall? Let's say the wall in which the door is supposed to be installed is littered from the vertical by more than 1 cm per two meters of the height of the opening. Then you have three options:

• Install the door frame along the plane of the wall, the architraves will fit snugly against the wall, but the door will also be tilted and, probably, will close on its own, slam, etc.
• Install the box vertically in level, while the platbands fit in the upper part and move away from the wall by the amount of wall deviation from the vertical in the lower part (or vice versa), worsening the aesthetics.
• Buy a door with telescopic architraves and install it straight, deepening a little into the wall and pulling out, where necessary, the architraves from the grooves. it good decision problems, unless it is required to open the door 180 degrees, since opening the door leaf more than 100 degrees will pull out the hinges.

The choice is yours, in all cases there are minuses and there are pluses, because this is a compromise.

What if the door is close to the wall?

In such an opening, one wall is perpendicular to the other wall, and it is necessary to reduce the width of the architraves, and attach them close to the wall on both sides. But reducing the platbands in width, we still spoil the appearance of the door, see photo: However, there are several other options for solving this problem:

1. If the repair has already been made and wallpaper is glued to the walls, you can screw it to such a wall wooden beam section 3x6, 3x4 or 4x4 (no more). It becomes possible to install a whole platband close to the wall.
2. Increase the doorway at least 5 cm from the wall and cut off the same distance from the opposite wall of the opening at the repair stage. The platband will be located at a small distance from the wall, which looks much more beautiful.
3. Increase the doorway at the repair stage by 5 cm on both sides and order doors 10 cm less wide, for example 70 cm. instead of 80cm..

Setting the interior threshold

The door leaf is located in the opening closer to that part of the wall where the door will open, so the threshold covering the floor joint with the door closed should be located under the door leaf and then it will not be visible when the door is closed, see photo:

A common mistake of repair teams is the wrong location of the sills! To avoid such a mistake, draw a scheme for opening all doors in advance and give it to the foreman before laying the finishing floors.

Installation of interior doors in the bathroom

For living rooms and kitchens, it is recommended to order doors 2 meters high. For bathrooms in new homes, a canvas 1 m high is often required. 90cm due to the presence of waterproofing and special high thresholds. If you missed this moment and did not order doors with a height of 190 cm, then you need to expand the opening in height or, alternatively, you can shorten the door.

If you increase the opening in height, then the upper mark of the doors to the bathroom and interior doors will be at different levels. If the door is cut from below, then the panel pattern is lowered. Therefore, sometimes it is better to order smooth doors for bathrooms.

A common mistake is the threshold to the bathroom from a wooden door frame, as the aesthetics and ventilation of a wet room are violated, and in the future, mold may appear.

Preparation of openings for interior doors

Mounting foam will not be able to stick if there is a lot of dust on the ends of the doorway. It is necessary to remove dust or prime the ends of the walls of the opening if they are covered with gypsum putty or if the walls are made of gypsum / aerated concrete blocks.

If there are open round cavities and voids at the end of the opening, they can be repaired with plaster, leaving marks with a pencil so that the master does not drive fasteners into them. Holes for door frame fasteners are drilled between these cavities into lintels.

If the walls of the opening are made of drywall, then in a metal profile at the vertical ends of the opening necessarily must be dry wooden block. It is needed for reliable fastening of doors to self-tapping screws through the hinges and the counterpart, and it also stiffens the walls in the area of ​​​​the opening. Doors installed in openings without reinforcement are doomed to short-term operation and quickly sag.

If inside metal profile a bar is laid and the ends are not sewn up with anything, then this is not correct. Foam does not adhere well to galvanized metal. Over time, flaking is possible. To avoid this, GKL or GVL strips or plywood are screwed to the ends. Foam adhesion to these materials is excellent.

It is not allowed to leave voids between the sheets of drywall in the upper part of the opening. The fact is that the upper box is often strongly bent or bent when wedging, and to straighten it, for example, with the help of foam, a filled end of the wall is required.

Preparation of opening for sliding doors

For those wishing to install sliding sliding doors, the opening height for standard door should be approximately 202 cm. and the width of the opening should be equal to the width of the door leaf or a couple of centimeters wider. In the process of finishing the opening with extensions and platbands under the portal, its dimensions should become smaller than the door leaf.

At a height of 207 cm. up to 212cm. there should be no voids from the floor in the opening, since a wooden bar with a section of 5x5 cm and a length of about 190 cm will be horizontally fixed here, to which an aluminum top rail with rollers will be attached.

Finishing the doorway (portal) in the apartment

If you do not want to install an interior door, you can install a portal instead. This solution increases the space in small apartment, so this is a win-win option for visually combining adjacent rooms: a hall and a living room, a corridor and a dining room, a living room and a small kitchen. Doorway without the usual door surprisingly transforms the room:

Preparing the floor before installing doors

A common mistake of repair teams when laying floor coverings is when the gap between the floor covering and the wall in the area of ​​the platbands exceeds the thickness of the platband. And you just need to remember to make it no more than 3 mm. in the area of ​​platbands.

A recess (strobe) can be made in the wall near the floor to compensate for possible expansions of the floor covering.

Storing doors after purchase

To prevent deformation under the influence of gravity, the canvas, boxed timber and trim must be stored on flat surface lying. Doors can be placed on their side against the wall.

Doors, architraves and boxes can change their dimensions after changes in humidity. Due to the set of humidity after the cold in the warmth, before installation, it is necessary to store the door and the moldings indoors for several days. Do not remove the packaging from the doors in advance until the temperatures have completely equalized.

Which loops to choose?

• If the canvas weighs up to 20 kg., Then it is optimal to buy 2 loops of 10 cm high.
• If the canvas weighs from 20 to 30 kg., Then you need to buy 2 loops of 12-12.5 cm. tall
• If the canvas weighs more than 30 kg, then you need to buy 3 loops of 10 cm. tall

The hinges are hung at a distance of 20 cm from the top and bottom of the door leaf. The thickness of the metal and the absence of backlash are very important. If the thickness of the hinge metal is 3 mm, then these are good hinges, a thickness of 2-2.5 mm is much more common. It is very good if the hinges are made of brass, steel. Most common door hinges there are several types:

• universal hinges- these are traditional, mortise loops familiar to all of us. If the choice of hinges is not a fundamental point, buy universal hinges. They can open both to the right and to the left. In addition, universal hinges have a longer service life.

• - not mortise, overhead loops. Easy and simple to install. They got their name for a special unusual design - both of its elements in the open state resemble butterfly wings. In the process of closing the door leaf, one part of the hinge easily enters the other, forming a single whole. Usually such hinges are placed on lightweight doors.

• - mortise hinges proven by time, the door with such hinges is simply removed if it opens 180 degrees. There are right and left depending on the opening of the door

How to choose locks and latches?

Locks and latches are best chosen based on the quietest operation of the mechanisms when opening and closing and their reliability. Magnetic locks are quiet, but not all, they need to be bought more expensive and preferably Italian, there are very high quality options. Do not save on them, so as not to suffer later.

Cheap latches with plastic tabs are not always of high quality, here you must first ask around with knowledgeable people (not sellers), and not buy too suspicious options. It will work quietly for six months, and then it will suddenly start to rattle. Sometimes such cheap magnetic locks and latches do not work immediately after installation. Door installers are well aware of these models.

You can buy classic latches / locks. It is best to choose them with plastic reeds, as they are the quietest in operation and do not clang like metal ones.

Sometimes it happens that the new latch works hard. In this case, put a couple of drops of silicone grease on the lock tongue.

Door handle height from floor

For Europe - 95 cm. Many symmetrical doors are now being produced, in which the handle according to the design of the door should be located strictly in the middle of the leaf. Therefore, the standard handle height for Russia is 1 meter.

Almost all models door handles too long self-tapping screws are included in the kit, which, when screwed into the door, can jam the lock or lead to its unstable operation. Door installers almost always screw on the handles with their self-tapping screws.

How to choose the right master for installing an interior door and check the quality of his work?

How to do right choice so as not to be left with hopelessly damaged doors? Will the work be done with high quality if the door installer is in doubt? Let's first find out how best to check the work of the wizard and analyze everything point by point.

How to check the work of the door installation wizard?

1. Look at the quality of tie-in locks, joints of the box and trim, tie-in loops. The cracks must be absent.
2. The tongue of the lock must fit into the striker without play.
3. The canvas should evenly fit along the entire length to the porch or rubber seal. When closing the door, the elastic should not be jammed with the canvas
4. The gaps between the door and the box must be even along the entire length.
5. The box is fixed in the opening not only with building foam, but also with fasteners
6. The canvas should not close or open on its own.
7. Hardware must rotate freely.
8. The price may rise only because of the increased volume of work that cannot be foreseen in advance.

How to choose a door installer? Basic ways.

1. The master must narrowly specialize in installing doors! It is necessary to watch or see the work live (with friends in the apartment). The craftsman or team must have at least 1 year experience and must be professional: a miter saw, a sawing table or a hand-held circular saw, milling cutters, a screwdriver, a drill, a perforator, a hairpin gun with a compressor, templates for fittings, etc. Read