Insulation of a wooden house inside: what and how is it better to do it? Insulation of a wooden house from the inside: types of materials, features of the thermal insulation process How to insulate a wooden house from the outside or from the inside.

How to choose a heating method

This issue must be resolved in the first place - a method of insulation. To do effective insulation housing, you should understand the process itself step by step and its results, after which you should already make a decision. In the old days, in order to make the house warm, they didn’t bother much, and there were no opportunities commensurate with the current ones - therefore, they simply increased the thickness of the walls. Nowadays, modern heat-insulating materials, which have appeared in a huge variety on the market, have become available to everyone, so there is no need to increase the thickness of the walls. But it is necessary to study the pros and cons of new materials and technologies.

Of those who are desperate for such a step as thermal insulation from the inside, few people seriously imagine the difficulties of such an option.

Light in weight and installation, materials with high frost resistance and low thermal conductivity are already being used with might and main not only in the construction of new structures, but also in the reconstruction of existing ones. External insulation of the building with the help of modern technological materials allows not only to minimize heat loss, but also to protect the building from exposure to ultraviolet radiation, precipitation and temperature changes "overboard", which means it will save money on heating and significantly extend the service life. Of course, this is subject to the quality of the work.

Problems such as cold bridging, wall wetting, and fungal infections can be the result of technology failure. As a result, the effect of all the work carried out will inevitably decrease, as well as the service life of both heat-insulating materials and the building as a whole will decrease, which entails new costs.

How heat loss occurs in a wooden house

Walls wooden house have natural gaps and crevices that need to be sealed

The process has a certain algorithm. In general, the tree itself is an excellent heat-insulating material. Walls made of wood, due to its natural structure, “breathe” freely, keeping heat perfectly and creating the most favorable microclimate for people in the home. And yet, heat escapes - through junctions, interventional cracks, as well as through corners, cuts, doors and windows. In addition, over time, materials shrink naturally under the wagging of various, incl. weather factors. Additional gaps and cracks are formed. So the natural mobility of a tree, being its advantage, turns into a disadvantage when it comes to tightness. So there is a need for thermal insulation of all fistulas that have arisen.

If we still warm from the inside

Despite the obvious fact that it is technically easier for us to insulate a room from the inside, this option not received wide distribution. There are several well-reasoned reasons for this. And the reduction of the area is not the worst thing here.

What are the points to consider

The walls insulated inside do not really warm up, and temperature drops lead to a situation where, due to the effect of a temperature difference, the dew point moves into the heat-insulating layers, i.e. into the insulation, as a result of which the room becomes damp and sometimes water vapor condensate even settles on the walls, which can provoke a fungus that is detrimental to a wooden house, mold will appear. The vapor barrier device with the help of a film helps to partially save the situation, but in this case, so that you don’t get the feeling that you live in plastic bag, you need to take care of effective forced ventilation in the room.
You can avoid undesirable consequences if you significantly increase the thickness of the insulation, which usually causes resistance from the owners of the house, because the living area is noticeably reduced due to this.

Scheme of internal insulation

Warming the house from the inside requires a certain sequence of steps. On the diagram:
1. Vapor barrier system;
2. Thermal insulation;
3. Waterproofing;
4. Clapboard lining.

Where to begin

The first duty before insulating a wooden house, whether external or internal, is to determine what kind of wood the structure is made of. different wood has different characteristics of thermal insulation, from which the cost of insulation can be different. It is also important to find and eliminate obvious flaws such as cracks, cracks in logs, defects in insulation stuffing.

After identifying the shortcomings and determining the range of work, they begin to insulate the walls. If there is not enough external insulation, a combined option is often chosen.

From the inside, the walls are insulated, as a rule, in the warm season - in the spring and summer. A freshly built house is insulated after its final shrinkage, i.e. one year after completion of construction. Particular attention should be paid to window structures and doors - a lot of heat leaves the room through them.

Material requirements

Thermal performance and more

Insulate wooden house from the inside, as a rule, now with the help of modern synthetic insulation. The main requirements for them are simple: fire resistance and high thermal insulation qualities.

Ecowool

One of the most popular materials in recent years has become the so-called ecowool. The material is sprayed with an integral heat-insulating layer, which, tightly adjoining the logs, timber, perfectly fills all existing voids and cracks, preventing possible blowing through of the walls. Having warmed with ecowool, you can completely do without additional caulking of a log house.

Basalt wool, glass wool

The use of other types of mineral wool products, such as basalt wool or glass wool, seems to be also designed to solve the same thermal insulation problems, which they successfully cope with. The thermal insulation performance of these materials is also not bad, but using them in internal insulation it is more difficult to cope with such a problem as the ingress of moisture into the insulation, and this significantly worsens the thermal insulation qualities of the material. In this case, you can not do without a vapor barrier film as a water seal to ensure internal ventilation in order to eliminate excessive moisture.

Styrofoam

Insulation with foam (polystyrene foam) plates is also common. The undoubted advantages of extruded polystyrene foam are its elasticity and lightness. The good heat and sound insulation and sound insulation qualities of expanded polystyrene allow the use of fairly thin plates, i.e. the process does not affect the usable area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. And what is important, polystyrene foam insulation technologies are constantly improving, improving its characteristics.

Intra-wall insulation

Wooden walls are sometimes insulated using the so-called intra-wall insulation. This requires special technology. For insulation inside the wall, it is necessary to use insulation that is resistant to deformation. These are lnovatin, linen and hemp tow. Naturally, this method is possible only at the initial stage of construction. Insulation is laid in the intra-wall spaces, i.e. between two walls. The most acceptable method of insulation is recognized as "warm" plaster, which has good heat-insulating qualities. How the work is done is described below.

The surface is prepared first. If there are remains of plaster on the surface of the walls, it must be removed. A special frame of reinforcement is fixed to the walls - this is the basis for a new layer. A metal mesh 5 × 5 cm is attached to this frame. The actual plastering of the walls is carried out in 3 stages:

1. Application on walls by spraying mortar to fill gaps and voids.
2. Then the primer is applied, with its help the surface of the walls is leveled. This layer of plaster is thicker than the previous one.
3. Finishing layer - covering, when a fine finish is performed with fine, clean, sifted sand.

Building science recommends doing external insulation of buildings, since in this case the dew point is outside the room in the insulation or in the outer layer of the walls. With such insulation in rooms, moisture will not condense on the walls.

However, there are cases when insulation of a wooden house from the inside- is the only correct solution. For example, if the owner of the house wants to keep a beautiful appearance, characteristic of log houses or laws prescribe to preserve the historical appearance of the building.

Modern building science allows you to make internal insulation wooden houses, but for this you should use the right materials and follow the technology.

Preparatory work

All work on the construction and arrangement of residential buildings must be preceded by engineering calculations. This also applies to the internal insulation of a wooden house.

The thermotechnical calculation should show how effective the insulation will be and, in general, is there a possibility of internal insulation? The insulation will always fulfill its function, but the position of the dew point is of decisive importance.

The dew point should never be on interior walls. and even more so in the insulation and calculations should show this. If the dew point is inside, then the room will be warm, but in the cold season it will be constantly damp. And from dampness, porous heaters get wet, the walls of houses rot, mold and various unwanted living creatures are massively bred.

Only if the dew point is not inside the room even in the coldest period, you can confidently produce internal insulation. True, for this you will have to sacrifice part of the internal volume of the house, but without this - nothing!

Materials used for internal insulation

Materials that are used in the internal insulation of the house, must meet certain requirements:

1. First, they must have low thermal conductivity in order to fulfill their purpose. main function- warming.
2. Secondly, these materials must meet the requirements fire safety for premises.
3. Thirdly, the material alone or in combination with the mounting structure must provide the required mechanical strength.
4. And, finally, all materials used indoors must be environmentally friendly and not release any chemicals into the surrounding air that adversely affect the health of living beings.

Warming methods

Ways to insulate a wooden house directly depend on the materials used for this. In modern construction, several types of them are used:

1. Mineral basalt wool slabs- are most commonly used. This material does not burn, environmentally friendly, its use provides excellent heat and sound insulation. Low mechanical strength requires the construction of a building envelope, and high hygroscopicity obliges to cover mineral wool with special vapor barrier films.
2. Expanded polystyrene plates (polystyrene), have also found application in internal insulation. Their use is not recommended, as they can release substances containing styrene into the air. When burning, pressless expanded polystyrene releases deadly substances: hydrogen cyanide and toluene diisocyanate. Therefore, only extruded polystyrene foam, flammability class - G1, can be used. Insulation with expanded polystyrene also requires a building envelope.
3. glass wool- a widely used material for insulation. It has a lower price than basalt wool, however, it also has a higher thermal conductivity. To insulate the interior with glass wool, only material specially designed for this purpose should be used, which should additionally be covered with films. Small particles of glass wool are very harmful to health, so the installation is carried out only in the means of protecting the skin and respiratory organs. Requires building envelopes.
4. Isoplat – modern insulation, which consists of a layer of pressed linen fiber and fiberboard with a thickness of 12 to 25 mm. High mechanical strength makes it possible not to make powerful enclosing structures, and the environmental friendliness of this material allows it to be used indoors. The thermal conductivity of Isoplat is worse, and the price is much higher than that of other heaters.
5. Insulation with polyurethane foam sprayed on the surface - modern great way, requiring special equipment. Enclosing structures for such insulation are needed.

In this video you can see how a wooden house is insulated from the inside with polyurethane foam.

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside

Sealing joints

A wooden house, even an impeccably built one, settles down for quite a long time. In addition to precipitation, when the heating is turned on in the house, there is an intensive drying of the wood, which affects the geometric dimensions of the log or glued beam. Initially, even well-laid logs or beams can form enlarged gaps at their joints, through which heat will be ruthlessly carried out into the atmosphere.

Therefore, the first operation for warming a house is sealing joints.

Fire bioprotection of wood

The inner part of the walls during insulation will be hidden by a layer of insulation, and for quite a long time. That is why the tree must be treated with a good fire-retardant composition, which for a long time eliminate the development of living creatures and make it difficult to ignite. It's not worth saving on this, you just have to choose good lineups guaranteed to provide the protection you need.

When processing walls with fire-retardant compounds, it should be taken into account that all enclosing structures, if they are wooden, must also be processed, since they will also be hidden in the insulation structure.

Thermal insulation and ventilation

Why didn’t they think much about the ventilation of houses before? Yes, because ventilation was carried out in a natural way - through leaks in wall and window structures.

Modern Construction Materials and technologies exclude any leaks and gaps through which air can pass, but this does not mean that air should not circulate in the room. AT modern houses design a ventilation system that should supply fresh air to the room and remove the exhaust.

Good internal thermal insulation must always be accompanied by ventilation. Only then will the microclimate in the room be normal. But ventilation is also required by the thermal insulation itself, which has a soft and porous structure, for example, mineral wool. Therefore, in the gap between the wall and the thermal insulation layer, there must be an air gap, through which air must circulate freely, removing excess moisture, comparing the air humidity in the entire room.

Such intervals are realized in practice very easily. A wooden lath about 2.5 cm thick is attached to the walls with a certain gap, and a vapor barrier membrane is already attached to it. It turns out that there is an air gap between the wall and the insulation, which prevents the increased humidity of the internal walls and insulation.

If the walls of the house are built from a cylindrical log, then ventilation gaps are obtained naturally, and if from glued beams, then a ventilation gap is highly desirable.

vapor barrier

If used as a heater basalt wool, glass wool, pressless polystyrene foam, then vapor barrier must be done. To do this, a vapor barrier film is attached to the ventilation crate using a construction stapler. The film must be sufficiently stretched so that there is a ventilation gap between it and the wall. the joining of two panels of vapor barrier is done with an overlap of at least 10 cm using adhesive tape and a stapler.

If the interior of the house will be insulated with extruded polystyrene foam, then vapor barrier is not needed. This material already has the necessary waterproofing qualities and will be a reliable barrier to moisture.

Installation of the enclosing structure

With all methods of insulating the internal walls of a wooden house, except for Isoplat plates, the construction of a building envelope is required. Most often, it is made from a wooden square bar with a cross section of 50 mm. The installation step of the bar is determined by the width of the insulation. If mineral wool insulation is used, then the distance between adjacent bars should be 10 mm less than the width of the insulation - for a snug fit. If extruded polystyrene foam is used, then the distance must be exactly the width of the insulation boards.

Before installation it is necessary to process all the bars with a fire-retardant composition. Installation is carried out using screws of the required length directly to the wooden walls. If a crate was used for the ventilation gap, then the bars are attached to previously mounted rails. In this case, it is better to wrap the screws in holes previously drilled with a thin drill. This will prevent possible cracking of the wood.

Sometimes plasterboard profiles are used as a building envelope, which are attached to the walls on direct suspensions. This should only be done when drywall will be used as a finish, and in all other cases it is better to use a block of wood. The thermal conductivity of wood is much lower than that of metal.

When insulating the ceiling, the enclosing structure is made similarly to the wall. When insulating the floor, the wooden logs themselves, on which the floor covering will be attached, act as a building envelope.

Insulation installation

Insulation is placed in the space between the enclosing bars. If a sheet insulation, then installation on the walls is carried out from the bottom up, and rolled, on the contrary, from top to bottom.

Mineral wool slabs are laid at random, which makes it possible for them to hold securely. However, it is still necessary to additionally strengthen the foam or mineral wool with special dowels with a wide head, one dowel per slab.

Roll insulation fixed on top with one dowel, rolled down and fixed with dowels at 1 meter intervals. First, whole slabs or rolls are laid, and the remaining space where trimming is required is filled with insulation last.

Ceiling insulation, in the case of a sloping roof, rolls up from the bottom up and can be fastened with dowels or with a cord. To do this, small carnations are stuffed onto adjacent bars with an interval of 15 cm, and then, after laying the insulation between the beams, a cord is pulled in a zigzag manner, which will securely hold the mineral wool.

If extruded polystyrene foam is used for insulation, then all possible gaps at the joints can be filled with mounting foam. Before applying the foam, the surfaces are moistened, and after it dries, all excess is cut with a knife.

Final waterproofing

After installing the insulation, if the thermal insulation was made with porous materials that can absorb water, then it is necessary to cover the insulation with a layer of waterproofing, but with a special one - vapor permeable membrane, which is, on the one hand, a reliable barrier to water, and on the other hand, the membrane freely releases water vapor from the insulation. Even if water has condensed in the insulation, it will come out in the form of steam until the humidity of the insulation is equal to the humidity in the room.

The breathable film has two sides: one is smooth and the other is rough, through which water vapor escapes. The rough side of such a film is laid to the insulation and fastened with a stapler to the building envelope. Joints with an overlap of 10 cm are glued with adhesive tape and fixed with a stapler. For waterproof insulation, a vapor-permeable membrane is not needed.

The final stage of warming there will be installation of the finishing coating, which can be wooden lining, drywall, plywood, OSB boards and others.

conclusions

1. Wall insulation inside a wooden house is extremely rare and very often a necessary measure.
2. Before installing internal thermal insulation, it is necessary to carry out thermotechnical calculations, showing the position of the dew point in the cold period. Tochna dew should not be on the inner walls and in the insulation.
3. As a heater, you should choose only environmentally friendly from well-known manufacturers.
4. Porous insulation must be covered with waterproofing films from the side of the wall and a vapor-permeable membrane from the side of the room.

Content

A log house or building made of wood (frame or timber) is the dream of many. Apartments-boxes made of brick and concrete are already rather fed up, so a person seeks to acquire private households. Wood is a natural material. It breathes, participates in the process of evaporation and absorption of moisture, creates an atmosphere of coziness and comfort. How and with what to insulate a wooden house from the outside, what materials should I choose? The issue of additional thermal insulation is relevant mainly for residents of the northern regions. Especially those where the temperature during the winter months drops well below -10 °C.

Thermal insulation of a wooden house

Types of thermal insulation materials

When deciding whether to insulate a wooden house, you should know that it depends on how well it is built. With the right thickness of the walls (in accordance with the winter temperatures in the region), additional thermal insulation is unlikely to be needed. Where it is cold, it is necessary to insulate a structure made of natural wood. It is important to choose the right materials for this. Not everything is recommended for the exterior walls of a wooden house.

Important. Heaters are divided into natural and artificial. The first "breathe", do not violate the microclimate of the building. The latter are more affordable, but not always safe for health.

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house? This question always remains open. Adherents natural materials with pleasure they use mats made of algae (damask) and hemp (hemp fiber), despite their high cost, and adobe. Those who do not disdain artificial thermal insulation most often use the following heaters:

• mineral (glass, stone, basalt wool);
• polyurethane foam;
• penoizol;
• ecowool;
• polystyrene and polystyrene.

What material to insulate the walls, if the choice is so wide? You need to build on the technical characteristics of heaters.

Mineral wool

This is a classic insulation for walls, and not only wooden ones. The thermal conductivity of the material is 0.033-0.046 W / (m * C) depending on the density, water absorption is 0.49-0.6 Mg / (m * h * Pa). Basalt wool is the most expensive variety. It does not burn, does not rot or mold, perfectly passes steam and does not get wet.

Material made from glass waste is not recommended due to rather large shrinkage and high water absorption. stone wool- a good option with an average thermal conductivity and a fairly attractive price. Water absorption coefficient - 2% of the total volume.

Warming the walls of a wooden house with mineral wool is a fairly economical option. If plates are used, then installation is quick and you can do without an assistant.

PPU

Polyurethane foam is a new generation material. This is a sprayed thermal insulation with a minimum coefficient of water absorption (0.05) and thermal conductivity (0.023–0.041). The denser the material, the higher the thermal conductivity. PPU "envelops" the structure with a whitish or cream-colored fur coat, not letting in either moisture or cold air. Vapor permeability is practically zero. Mandatory finishing.

The opinion of experts about the use of polyurethane foam as a heater is different. Some believe that it should not be used for wooden buildings. The tree does not breathe under it and slowly collapses. Others believe that if you correctly calculate the thickness of polyurethane foam for wood walls, the surface will always be dry and protected from decay. Moisture exchange, characteristic of wood, will occur not on the street, but indoors.

Important. Insulation of a wooden house from the outside (external) is preferable to internal. In this case, the dew point moves closer to the street, and the tree will be dry.

Penoizol

Insulation with a high coefficient of water absorption, weakly resistant to mechanical stress, mandatory arrangement of wind and moisture protection is required. Thermal conductivity coefficient 0.031–0.041, water absorption up to 20% of its own weight. Evaporates moisture fairly quickly. Light weight, suitable for ventilated facades.

Ecowool

Natural, environmentally friendly material from waste paper production - waste paper. Thermal conductivity is comparable to PPU 0.032–0.041. Water absorption is lower than that of mineral wool - up to 1% of the total volume. Installation is carried out by dry filling or wet spraying on a surface with a pre-installed crate.

Ecowool - right choice for insulation of the outer walls of the house. This material should be considered as a priority, including for independent work.

Expanded polystyrenes

Despite its popularity due to its low cost and availability (you can buy it at any hardware store), polystyrene foam and foam plastic are not recommended for insulating wooden walls.

• easy to ignite though modern technology allows you to reduce the indicator as much as possible when using various flame retardant additives;
• when burned, toxic substances are released;
• become covered with mold over time;
• short-lived.

Styrofoam and foam plastic are often used to insulate the basement of a wooden house. This part of the building is usually concrete or brick. The material is glued with a special compound, additionally fixed with dowels and plastered or covered with some kind of light finish. it best use thermal insulation. Expanded polystyrene can insulate the basement, as well as protect the foundation from freezing.

Thermal insulation methods

Most proper insulation wooden house from the outside - arrangement of the ventilation facade. In this case, the thermal insulation does not come into contact with the wood. Between the walls and the insulating "pie" there is a small space where they move freely air masses.

Another, possible, but more time-consuming way - false wall, equipped with frame-panel technology. The space between it and the monolithic surface is filled with heat-insulating material. This design can be done independently, but it is better to entrust the work to professionals. Experts will make calculations to determine optimal thickness thermal insulation.

Important. A false wall cannot hang in the air or rest on the ground, so you have to make a light foundation, and this is an additional financial cost.

The "wet facade" technology is also used for the insulation of wooden buildings.. However, this loses all the charm of a structure made of natural wood. The material is glued to the walls and additionally fixed with dowels-umbrellas, a fine-mesh mesh is attached on top and plastered. This method is unlikely to be suitable for a log house.

Self-insulation technology: step by step instructions

Polyurethane foam and penoizol, although they are technical specifications preferred thermal insulation, are not suitable for self-assembly, so if you decide to insulate the facade with your own hands, then it is better to use mineral and paper wool (ecowool).

Tools and materials

For work you will need:

• sandpaper (large, medium);
• universal impregnation;
• brushes or rollers for impregnating;
• material for sealing cracks (caulking);
• timber for crates;
• saw for cutting materials;
• fasteners (nails, anchors);
• a hammer;
• construction stapler;
• heat insulators (mineral wool, ecowool);
• plywood (for laying ecowool in a dry way);
• vapor barrier and waterproofing films;
• finishing (block house, siding, clinker panels, lining - to choose from).

Preparatory work

First you need to prepare the surface. This applies to any building made of wood - timber, frame-panel, log house, and especially to old buildings. Ideally, a large sandpaper is passed over the tree, removing dirt, efflorescence, grease stains, and old finishes. Then sweep with a broom to remove dust.

The next step is impregnation. They choose a universal one that protects against wood-boring bugs, and from mold and rot, and from fire. After complete drying, proceed to warming.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool: ventilated facade

The technology of warming the walls of a wooden house from the outside:

1. Seal all gaps. Use caulk material.
2. Install a horizontal crate for ventilation (slat height up to 0.5 cm).
3. Fasten the vapor barrier film to the crate with a construction stapler. Glue the joints with construction tape.
4. Make the next layer of the crate perpendicular to the first (the thickness of the timber is slightly greater than the thickness of the mineral wool). The step is 1 cm less than the width of the thermal insulation material.
5. Lay mineral wool slabs in the formed cavities.
6. If the household is located in the northern regions, install another crate, placing the beam perpendicular to the beam of the first layer, and lay the mineral wool slabs - now all cold bridges are blocked.
7. Stretch the waterproofing membrane. The side that absorbs moisture should face the insulation. Fix the film with a stapler. Seal the joints with construction tape.

The process is completed with finishing - you can sheathe a wooden house outside with vinyl siding, clapboard, block house.

Thermal insulation with ecowool

Before buying this insulation, you need to calculate its optimal thickness. Ecowool is sold in briquettes, highly compressed. Before starting work, it must be fluffed. Usually used for this purpose construction mixer. Put a bale of ecowool in a large container and "whisk".

Warming scheme:

1. Make a zero crate.
2. Stretch the vapor barrier membrane.
3. Make the first level of the crate (the thickness of the timber should be equal to the thickness of the ecowool layer).
4. Outside, stretch a moisture-proof film along the crate.
5. Install the first row of plywood.
6. Start laying ecowool in the resulting cavities. Pour in layers and tamp with your hands or something more convenient, such as a homemade trampler like a short trowel.
7. As soon as the level of ecowool is equal to the top edge of the plywood and will spring under your hands, install another row of chipboard and repeat all the manipulations.
8. Continue until the wall is completely insulated.

Important. it good way thermal insulation, but at the very top it is likely to leave small voids. In the case of ecowool, however, the best option- invite a specialist who, using a special installation, will blow the material into the cavity under pressure.

log building

How to properly insulate a log house, while keeping the wood intact? Use ventilation facade technology. Only here it is not required to install a zero crate - the one on which the vapor barrier is attached. The log has a semicircular shape, so it is not necessary to raise the level additionally - the air gap is provided by the features of the building material.

It is possible to insulate a log house from the outside with both mineral wool and ecowool. Both materials are breathable, so they do not interfere with the natural moisture exchange of wood with the environment.

If the building is old

In this case, all the steps described in the technology of insulation according to the principle of a ventilated facade are observed. Indeed, more thoughtful consideration is needed preliminary preparation.

To insulate an old wooden house:

1. Remove the old finish from the walls - peel it off to the very wood.
2. Examine the tree for voids from carpenter bugs. Large ones will need to be reached, treated with impregnations, dried and puttied.
3. Treat with an antiseptic, after drying - with a flame retardant composition.
4. After drying the walls, carry out thermal insulation with mineral wool.

Warming an old building made of wood is a slightly more time-consuming, but feasible task for independent implementation. Be sure to choose the right type of finish.

Frame and panel structures

They are thermally insulated in the same way as any wooden buildings. Do not use, even if you really want to save money, polystyrene foam. insulate frame house outside you can use ecowool - this is ideal. Use dry filling (the technology is described above) or call the master who will spray the moistened material directly onto wooden walls at home. The second option for thermal insulation characteristics much better.

The panel house can be insulated from the outside with mineral wool. Use several crates to completely block the cold bridges. And don't forget the ventilation gap. Block-house finishing is the closest imitation of timber.

Important. Do not forget to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house. This is especially important if the attic is cold.

In order for the thermal insulation of a wooden house to be done correctly, you need to make the correct calculations before starting work. Wood has a low thermal conductivity, is able to accumulate heat, and then slowly release it. A house made of wood, closed from the outside with “alien” material, loses its naturalness. If you can’t do without additional thermal insulation, carry out thermal protection wisely - protect not only the walls from the cold, but also the basement, foundation, floor, roof with an attic.

Wall insulation in a wooden house from the inside must be done, of course. After all, penetrating moisture contributes to the destruction of wood and not only does the structure become unusable, but as a result of this, the room will be damp.

How to insulate the walls in a wooden house from the inside, we will consider today. Also on the video in this article and the photo you can see the whole process of doing the work clearly.

Preparation for the main types of work

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside is done according to certain rules and in compliance with the desired sequence. This will depend on the quality of the work performed.

Before starting work, it is necessary to take measurements and calculate the material. And so, it is necessary to make calculations for the further choice of insulating material, taking into account, among other things, its properties (see Material for insulating walls inside: characteristics). Do not forget that during such work, membranes are used (steam insulating and waterproofing).

When calculating, set:

• Dew point output. This is one of the most important points in this type of work. Everything is explained very simply - how, in the end, it will be humid in the room, it directly depends on this, even in cases of high-quality material, and well-done work. Both the location of the membranes and their properties are taken into account (for different manufacturers they can differ), and of course the properties of the insulation (density, resistance to wetting).
• Calculation of the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, given that it will decrease. It may not turn out to be a comparison (an increase in slopes, and in the presence of a furnace, the safe distance will change, between the wall and the furnace, which is unacceptable for fire safety).

Important: The need for work to establish the dew point is not discussed. It is an inseparable part that ultimately provides the meaning of the whole work. You need to understand - the humidity of the room depends on the location of the dew point, and humidity is rotting, smell, in the end - premature decay.

Rules for performing insulation work

Do-it-yourself wall insulation of a wooden house from the inside is done if there is quality materials. Preference should be given to trusted brands, you can save a little on Chinese material, but you will significantly lose in performance.

What is needed to carry out the work

Insulation of wooden walls from the inside is done with heaters, there are quite a few of them. But you need to start from the structure itself and what you want to get in the end.

By definition, the insulation must meet the requirements:

1. Have low thermal conductivity;
2. Meet the requirements of fire safety;
3. Comply with environmental and chemical safety standards.

Attention: When choosing a heater, the density and heat transfer qualities are determined, taking into account the place of its application, weather and temperature characteristics, as well as the state of the building itself.

• The material used must not support combustion, emit hazardous compounds into the air, contain hazardous chemical elements. For internal works, the material is selected with great care, environmentally friendly and safe. This is important because - in a confined space, with constant contact, even a seemingly insignificant deviation from the norm can be dangerous, both for people and for pets.

Types and types of insulation materials

When deciding which method to use, you first need to decide what material will be used. This is interconnected, since the method and method directly depends on the type of material.

From possible ways used indoors - use:

Now let's figure out how to insulate wooden walls from the inside from a practical point of view.

Sealing gaps, preparing the surface for insulation

From the moment the building was built, during its operation, the wood dries out, the house “shrinks”, the constant movement of materials. As a result, gaps and cracks are formed that must be repaired to stop heat loss.

• Joints between logs (or timber) - caulk. This is done with an accessible material, or with the same thing that was done before (tow, jute, sealant). As a result, heat loss must be stopped.

In order to keep the warmth and comfort in the house, it is necessary to add a heat-insulating layer to the outer walls. Particular attention is paid to buildings that have been in operation for a long time and have experienced many negative impacts. Therefore, many owners are interested in the issue of warming an old wooden house.

A house made of wood has the ability to let vapors through, so that it is always comfortable to be in the premises. If you choose the wrong material for insulation, you can completely close the exit of moisture, which will lead to its accumulation in the walls of the building. This will lead to premature destruction of the entire structure.

Mineral wool

Experts claim that the best insulation not found for an old wooden house. And indeed it is. has the following properties:

1. Retains heat very well.
2. Isolates the interior from extraneous sounds from environment.
3. Light weight helps to do everything quickly and efficiently.
4. The structure of the material allows you to hide all the irregularities.
5. Fire and environmental safety.
6. Rodents do not use to create nests.

But there are also a number of negative points:

• protection from moisture is necessary, therefore mineral wool is torn with a vapor barrier membrane, on the one hand, and a windproof film, on the other;
• requires mechanical fixation.

But such shortcomings are easy to deal with, because this option is suitable for an old house and or a new building.

Styrofoam

Insulation from the class available. Because it is in demand among all construction companies and private developers. In addition to this positive moment, there are a number of others:

1. Good thermal insulation properties.
2. Has soundproofing.
3. Does not absorb moisture.
4. Withstands small mechanical loads.

But a small set of disadvantages makes the foam unsuitable for insulation. country house from a log house:

• lack of steam capacity;
• rapid destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation;
• rodents and insects love to create their homes in this material;
• Styrofoam ignites easily, and then smolders with the release of caustic substances.

The tree already burns well, and if the finish is such that being in such a house will be life-threatening.

Penoplex (polystyrene)

This material is a close relative of polystyrene. But manufacturers have slightly improved the properties of the insulation, due to which the cost has also increased. What are the characteristics of penoplex?

1. Improved thermal insulation properties. If a foam plastic 10 cm thick is needed to insulate the house, then 5 cm foam can be replaced.
2. Withstands high mechanical stress.
3. Doesn't absorb moisture at all.
4. There are also soundproofing properties.
5. Penoplex is produced with the addition of flame retardants, substances that prevent the material from igniting under the influence of fire. Therefore, compared to polystyrene, foam is safer.

Sometimes it is used as thermal insulation for wooden buildings. But it is only suitable for a plinth or foundation. This is due to the lack of steam capacity. As a result, condensation will form on the walls, which means it will contribute to the development of mold and mildew.

What is the best way to insulate?

A house with a long service life requires not only insulation of the facade, but also all structural elements as a whole. Such actions will help to more effectively store heat inside the house. Therefore, we consider all the elements separately:

Wall insulation

It is better to isolate the walls from the outside. This shifts the dew point towards the environment, which allows it to be removed from the base much faster. If you insulate the walls from the inside, you can cause quite the opposite result. In this case, the walls will still freeze through.

For wall insulation, we choose hard mats of mineral wool. If there are material opportunities, you can take the foil version. The foil layer will repel heat from the walls. Before installing the insulation, be sure to close all the cracks.

In this case, we use a tourniquet, dry moss or tow. With this material, we tightly caulk the interventional space or cracks that can form on the logs.

Ceiling

There are two ways to insulate the ceiling:

• from the side of the room;
• from the attic side.

Both the first and second methods are effective. Harder materials are laid on the ceiling. If there is an attic under the roof, then it is better to resort to insulation from the side of the rooms. Then a structure is created from beams, between which a sheet insulation is placed. Don't forget about vapor barrier membranes.

When there is an attic under the roof, you can use mineral wool, and even polystyrene. A more rigid material must be laid on top of the insulation. It can be chipboard, which will protect the insulation from bursting.

There is an option when bulk heaters are used, for example, sawdust, gravel. But such materials need a lot, which can be even more expensive than using modern heaters.

Floor

The choice of insulation technology for a dilapidated house depends on whether there is a basement or not. If there is a basement, then first insulate it. It is possible that after this it will not be necessary to further isolate the floor.

But if such a need has already been determined, then the following options are chosen:

1. Underfloor heating (electric heating). Not always suitable for old wooden structures, as it requires reliable electrical wiring.
2. The use of thermal insulation materials. They choose only hard options, but be sure to make a plank floor or cover with chipboard or OSB boards, and then decorate with the selected floor material.

It is in an old wooden house that large heat losses occur due to dilapidated floors. Therefore, do not neglect the possibility of isolating the floors. More precisely, start insulating the house from the floors.

How to insulate an old wooden house with your own hands?

The tree must be specially treated before any outdoor work can be started. Especially if the design is closed from the eyes of the owner. Therefore, carefully and carefully adhere to the insulation technology if you do everything yourself.

And if you trusted the masters, then do not forget to control the team. It often happens that employees want to get the job done earlier and mess around a bit. This can lead to premature failure of the structure.

Surface preparation

Let's prepare the base first:

1. Remove all dirt and stains, traces of insects or fungus.
2. Remove old decorative coating.
3. Remove hinged structures that will interfere with all work.
4. Close all cracks.
5. Cover by wooden structure protective compounds. These are antiseptic impregnations or mastics and moisture-repellent compounds. This will significantly extend the life of the foundation.

If the packaging says that it is desirable to make several layers, then it is better to do as the manufacturer recommends. If you save at this stage, you may regret it later.

Laying a vapor barrier

After the impregnation is completely dry, proceed to laying the membranes. This layer will protect the walls from moisture and allow vapors to freely pass through the insulation and go outside.

• start laying from the bottom of the wall in vertical stripes;
• each subsequent strip finds, on the previous one, by 10–15 cm;
• joints are fixed with adhesive tape;
• the membrane itself is fixed with a construction stapler.

Lathing installation

For the frame use wooden blocks or metal profiles. If a wooden frame is chosen, then its parts also require special treatment in order to last as long as the decorative layer. In addition, the bars will not be able to hide the unevenness of the walls, which means that you will have to put pegs or chop off in some places.

With metal, everything is much simpler - we take and install. Special retractable brackets will easily hide all the shortcomings. But such a design will cost a little more than a wooden one.

The method of installing the frame depends on whether the heater will be used or not, and also on what decorative material decided to install on the facade.

The approximate plan is:

• first we do the markup. The step between the elements is equal to the width of the insulation;
• screw elements;
• we check how evenly the parts are installed using the building level.

Installing a heat insulator

The material that acts as a heat insulator is placed between the elements of the crate. Mats are laid tightly. At the same time, make sure that there are no gaps. Mineral wool should not bulge.

If such flaws appear, then they will later become cold bridges, which partially or completely levels out the work on insulation. Therefore, the material should lie tightly, but evenly.

Laying the wind protection film

It is customary to lay a windproof membrane on top of the insulation. This material will protect the mineral wool from the penetration of atmospheric moisture under the finish. The laying principle is the same as for the vapor barrier film:

1. Let's start from the bottom.
2. We make vertical stripes.
3. We lay in an overlap of 105-15 cm.
4. We glue the joints with tape.
5. The membrane is fixed with a stapler to the crate.

It is also appropriate to use mushroom dowels here. This mechanical fastener will additionally fix the insulation and the membrane.

Installation of the crate for fixing finishing materials from the outside

An additional crate also creates a ventilation gap, which allows you to remove the steam coming out of the interior. The size of the gap can vary from 3 to 8 mm. It all depends on the thickness of the insulation material and the region in which the house is located.

Exterior wall decoration

As finishing material for a wooden house, you can choose any known option. It is important to take into account the condition of the structure, that is, the strength of the structure. If the house is too old, do not choose heavy material, as the structure may not withstand the load and collapse.

• fully follow the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer;
• fix the details to the elements of the crate;
• choose dry weather;
• carry out the insulation of a wooden house only in the warm season.

Possible problems with insulation

Before insulating an old wooden house, be sure to check how durable the structure is. If necessary, walls and foundations need to be strengthened. For those who have never done such a thing, it is better to take care of the construction team, and not start experiments.

And for those who nevertheless decided to do everything on their own, you should strictly adhere to the instructions and not lose sight of anything. It is important to properly prepare the base, choose a heater and finish.