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How to repair garage doors and do-it-yourself insulation. Brief recommendations on how to raise the gate in the garage for their normal functioning Increasing the height of the garage door

Due to the design features of the sash, under a hundred kilos in weight, in the open state, from their own gravity and gusts of wind, they sag and bend so that it is almost impossible to close the gate in the garage on a sagging and deformed frame, without straightening with your own hands. You have to lift the gate, remove and align the hinges.

The main problem with the garage door

Old garage door designs made of five-millimeter sheet metal can withstand a huge load, while the heavy structure was hung on a T-beam frame up to 20 cm wide. It had to be raised or repaired no more than once every 20 years, and mainly due to the wear of the hinges.

Raising the garage door or even just removing it from the hinges yourself, without the help of neighbors, is almost impossible, therefore similar works always carried out by a team of at least three to four people. Modern garage doors have to be raised and removed almost every couple of years, mainly due to thin metal or an illiterate garage design:

  • The foundation of the garage under the threshold beam sank along with the wall, respectively, it became impossible to open the doors, the lower edge simply clings to the blind area;
  • The gate hinges were deformed or worn out, the slope of the leaves appeared;
  • The dimensions of the garage doorway do not allow parking cars with high ground clearance or high cab seating, for example, Gazelle or VWT4, at worst, UAZ-Patriot.

Important! In most cases, in order to align or fix the defect, you have to lift the gate in the garage and remove it from its hinges.

In-line gate repair

In repair, two operations should be distinguished, completely different in terms of labor intensity and complexity of implementation:

  1. Raise one or both leaves, without dismantling the frame, racks or body, on which the garage door is fixed;
  2. Overhaul or replacement of the frame, in this case, it is necessary to disassemble the masonry and raise or remove the welded frame structure on which the sashes are hung.

Advice! If you do not have the skill of welding, it is better to entrust any replacement of the frame or sashes to specialists.

How to raise a garage door

The simplest and most affordable procedure, if you have the skill, you can try to lift even a very heavy sash alone. For example, if the wear of the friction surface of the hinges has reached its limit, and the garage door began to cling to the upper edge of the blind area, repair washers must be inserted. At the same time, pay attention to the installation of two thin steel washers made of hardened polished steel. The total thickness of the washers should be such as to increase the height of the garage door leaf above the threshold beam. Each washer has a cutout for the width of the pivot axis of the hinge and is lubricated on one side only.

In this case, there is no need to even lift and remove the garage door, it is enough just to lift them to a height of a few millimeters in order to insert a pair of steel washers into the gap formed in the hinges. To raise the gate leaves, it is necessary to turn them over an angle of more than 90 °, then install a wooden or steel wedge under the lower edge of the leaf, as close as possible to the axis of rotation. A few hits on the wedge will help lift the gate 2-3mm. Then you can insert a rolling jack, raise the sash to any height and even remove it if necessary. If the hinges are completely out of order, you have to lift and digest.

In the same way, repairs are carried out if, due to the deformation of the hinges or the frame of the garage door, the wings sag. In this case, a jack is installed under the edge of the sash, as far as possible from the axis of rotation, and they begin to slowly raise it, upsetting the place of deformation of the hinge or frame with a sledgehammer. If there is a gate in the design of the sash, it must be fixed with bolts or a coupler, but not removed. Most often, in 5-6 transitions, it is possible to straighten the gate, if not, you need to raise it to the maximum height, install the jack in a horizontal position with an emphasis on the opposite frame post and “squeeze out the geometry” of the frame until the beams and hinges are completely aligned.

Raising the garage door frame

The most difficult and time-consuming repair of the garage door is the lifting of the frame. heavy steel structure it is concreted into brick sidewalls, therefore, before lifting the structure, it is necessary to free up space for lifting and remove the gate leaves.

If the frame, along with the doors, is planned to be raised above ground level due to subsidence of the garage foundation, before raising the gate, you will need to knock out the top of the masonry by a brick or two, depending on the height of the lift. With a perforator or a construction hammer and a chisel, cement is knocked out from under the side racks of the frame and the threshold beam.

The lower part of the frame is hooked with an ordinary crowbar and lifted to a small height, first in the center, and after installing the first wedge, they similarly try to lift it from the left and right edges. If it is possible to raise the frame, then the side wedges are clogged. They are placed, as a rule, on the opposite side of the threshold beam. After increasing the gap to 5-6 cm, it is necessary to install a rolling jack up to 5 tons, and then raise the structure using a hydraulic mechanism.

Raise the upper beam of the frame in the same way. Most often, you have to raise it if you need to increase the height of the garage door without dismantling it. After knocking out the upper rows of bricks with a grinder, a piece of vertical racks is cut off on both sides along with the upper horizontal part of the frame. The cut is made above the welding points of the loops.

The weight of the cut off part of the frame is no more than 70 kg, so it is easy to lift it with a conventional jack installed on the threshold. A log or beam is inserted between the top bar and the jack and carefully lifted to the desired height. After that, cut pieces from a similar material are welded into the gap in the frame.

Conclusion

It is necessary to lift a heavy frame in compliance with safety regulations. Often, when trying to raise the frame, the heavy structure heeled and overturned on the workers, so experts recommend installing spacers and blocking cable extensions.

Often, the height of the gate of an already finished garage does not suit the owner. Perhaps the person decided to buy a new car, say, an SUV, whose height is higher than usual cars, or it became necessary to use the garage for other purposes when you need to drive a small truck inside, for example, a Gazelle.

But the gates for a private garage were previously created using a certain amount of metal in order to save money - the calculation of the amount of materials used was carried out taking into account the size of a standard steel sheet 2-3 mm thick (photo 1).

Photo 1. Standard garage doors

Height today garage doors other owners ceased to suit, and many began to increase this size (photo 2).


Photo 2. The height of the front wall allows you to increase the gate

Buying materials and choosing a tool

Of course, you can invite specialists who will do it quickly and efficiently. However, not everyone has enough money to pay for the work of hired workers and purchase the materials they use. Often, craftsmen require the purchase of new metal, which is an order of magnitude more expensive than the one that was already in use.

In turn, the garage owner can pick up the necessary rolled metal from an organization that collects scrap metal. The material selected from scrap can cost 2-3 times less than you have to pay for new rolled metal. At the same time, the strength of metal structures made of old metal is quite enough to ensure the strength of the finished product.

But it is not recommended to save on tools and equipment. Need to prepare workplace by setting the required height strong scaffolding- when performing work, a person must be in a stable position, which will prevent him from falling with a working tool and getting injured.

The hammer drill and angle grinder must be powerful, and equipment such as drills and cut-off wheels must be purchased. good quality on which the speed of work and the safety of the worker will depend.

For example, for cutting brick wall It is recommended to use special cutting diamond wheels. For welding, it is enough to use a small inverter welding machine, operating from a conventional network at 220V and welding metal with electrodes with a diameter of 3-4 mm.

I would like to add that such work should be undertaken by a person who has at least a little idea how to use specialized equipment, and who has little practical skills in using such tools.

Tools and equipment

  • Scaffolding;
  • Powerful angle grinder;
  • Perforator or powerful drill;
  • Plumb;
  • Construction level;
  • Inverter welding machine;
  • Welding helmet (it is recommended to choose a mask of the "Chameleon" type);
  • Welding gloves and preferably a welding suit;
  • Two cutting wheels for metal;
  • Cutting wheels for concrete, one of which has a maximum diameter (photo 3 and 4);
  • Drill for metal d=8.5 mm;
  • Drill for concrete d=8 mm;
  • MP3 electrodes with a diameter of 3 mm, although it is possible to work with electrodes of 4 mm;
  • A hammer;
  • Bit;
  • 13 open-end wrench for anchor bolts;
  • Plastic film to protect the garage from dust;
  • Respirator to protect the respiratory tract;
  • Special glasses that protect the eyes from dust and small pebbles that form when making channels for a new gate frame;
  • Clothing that maximally protects parts of the body from dust.

Photo 3. A set of cutting wheels for concrete
Photo 4. Cutting wheel for concrete maximum diameter

materials

  • Corner with a shelf width of 40-75 mm for building the door frame (focus on the corner from which the frame is already made);
  • Corner with a shelf width of 30-35 mm for the gate frame;
  • Sheet scraps 2-2.5 mm thick.

The amount of rolled metal and sheet dimensions are calculated based on the area by which the gate will increase.

Procedure for building gates

The scaffolding is firmly and stably installed.

The contour of the new frame of the garage door is outlined.

Inside the garage, a plastic film is fixed in such a way as to prevent dust generated during operation from entering the room.

The corner prepared for building up the gate frame is cut, with a note of each segment about its location in the structure.

A cut is being made brickwork garage walls along the contour of the new door frame, first outside the garage. It is better to cut the wall horizontally along the seam located between the bricks (photo 5), which will facilitate the even laying of the channel and the further removal of the excess masonry array.


Photo 5. Sawing a masonry seam

The vertical cut is made along the outlined contour (photo 6) with a maximum recess into the existing part of the frame for ease of installation new design(photo 7).


Photo 6. Cut along the intended contour
Photo 7. Recess in the frame

The sufficiency of the depth of the strobe is checked by the segment remaining when cutting the corner with a shelf width of 40-75 mm (photo 8).


Photo 8. Checking the depth of the strobe

After completing the cut from the outside (photo 9), the sections of the corner for the frame are installed (photo 10) with careful welding of the seams at the junction of the segments (photo 11). When installing corner segments, it is advisable to check their location using a plumb line and a building level. After checking, the structural elements are fixed in some way, after which the seams are welded. In the case of the extension shown in the photographs, the gate was installed incorrectly during the construction of the garage, which had to be compensated by adjusting the newly created frame and sash structure, which will be especially noticeable in the photographs with the already enlarged gate. When performing welding work, it is recommended to have a fire extinguishing agent nearby.


Photo 9. The cut is ready
Photo 10. Installation of segments for the corner of the frame
Photo 11. It is necessary to carefully weld the seams at the junction of the segments

For better attachment to the existing masonry of the structure being created, it is advisable to use anchor expansion bolts (photo 12).


Photo 12. In these conditions, it is best to use anchor expansion bolts

The diameter of the bolts used is 8 mm with a length of 60 mm (photo 13). It is enough to fix the horizontal segment of the corner in four places. First, a hole is drilled in the corner to the brickwork with a metal drill for 8.5 mm, and then the hole for the anchor bolt is deepened with a drill for concrete by 8 mm to the desired depth. After that, anchor bolts are inserted, and the structure is attached to the wall.


Photo 13. Anchor spacer bolts 60 mm long and 8 mm in diameter

After assembling and fixing the new structure from the outside, the necessary wall cuts are made from the inside, after which the elements of the gate frame are assembled in the same order and fastened from the inside.

The next stage is the preparation of parts for building up the sashes. To do this, cutting the existing sheets and cutting the corner with a shelf width of 30-35 mm into segments of the required length is performed.

Next, the fabric of the stackable section of each of the gate leaves is assembled. The assembled sections of the canvases are butt-welded from above to the gate leaves, and for fixing they are attached to the new section of the frame by spot welding in several places (photo 14).


Photo 14. Assembly of the canvas and fixing to the frame by spot welding

After that, excess brick is removed from the inside of the garage, gently chipping when using chisel and hammer tools. Before extracting excess sections of the wall, it is also necessary to fix the inner part of the stackable structure of the gate frame with anchor bolts (photo 15).


Photo 15. The inside of the canvas must also be fixed with anchor bolts

When the unnecessary pieces of the wall are removed, the frame structure is additionally strengthened and the extension of the gate leaves is reinforced with a frame (photo 16). All new structural elements that increase the size of the gate are thoroughly welded, because the strength of the finished product depends on this.


Photo 16. The whole structure is thoroughly boiled

The lower locks of the gate are fitted in place when new elements are added to the existing frame (photo 17). Then the floor is poured to the required level, or the gate frame is completely built up from below.


Photo 17. Adjustment of the lower constipation

The upper locks of the gate are built up and adjusted along the upper edge of the enlarged frame (photo 18).


Photo 18

On the outer side of the gate, the upper hinges are cut off and welded higher due to the increased size of the leaves (photos 19 and 20).


Photo 19
Photo 20

The final step is painting the gate with special paint (photo 21). It is recommended to use a coloring composition that performs three functions - the paint replaces the primer, if necessary, converts rust and creates a paintwork protective layer on metal.


Photo 21. New painted gate

If a person has little skills in working with a special tool for concrete and has an idea about welding work, then he will be able to build the gate on his own, thus saving significant funds from the family budget.

A common problem is the deformation of the leaves and the subsidence of the gate box. How to raise the gate in the garage on your own, and what reasons can cause such deformations of the leaves and the gate box.

First you need to find out the cause of the problem so that you can quickly and easily fix it. The most common problems with leaves and gate frames:

  • sagging loops - the problem can be solved independently in half an hour;
  • deformation of the garage foundation - in this case, it is necessary to repair the foundation and restore the geometry of the structure;
  • subsidence of the wall - you need to raise one side with a jack and level the base.

Let's dwell on the solution of each of these problems in more detail.

Hinge repair and balancing

A common problem is that gate leaves are deformed due to sagging of one or two hinges. This issue is solved with minimal costs:

  • to raise the lowered gate leaf on the hinges, you need to put adjusting washers. The thickness of such a washer is selected based on the depth of sagging of the garage door leaf;
  • to install such a washer, you need to remove the sash from the hinges, install the washer and hang the garage door again;
  • it is often difficult to find the desired height of such a washer, then an additional ball must be inserted into the loop (we select according to the diameter).

These methods are suitable if the sash sags a few centimeters.

Advice. Both the washer and the hinge adjustment ball must be made of a harder metal than the hinge material.

Trimming the door leaf

The solution - how to raise the gate in the garage, if the wings began to reach the ground and it is difficult to open and close the gate - a simple trimming of the lower part of the leaf blade with a grinder.

So that there is no gap after cutting the canvas, a rubber seal or a regular garden hose is attached from below.

Restoration of a deformed opening

If the opening was initially set incorrectly, then lateral twisting of the sash is often observed. The main cause of deformation is the upper beam of the frame. In order not to engage in dismantling and simply align the garage door, it is enough to find a stress point in the upper beam.

If you tap the upper beam a centimeter, then it is easy to find a place of stress, in this place the metal will begin to oscillate. The solution is simple - you need to make a cut with a grinder at this point and install a stiffening tire by welding.

How to raise a garage door - the opening needs to be increased in height

In this case, it is necessary to raise the roof, or install several rows of brickwork on the foundation (the option is suitable for solving the problem in metal garages).

In a brick garage, the only solution is to raise the height of the gate by raising the roof one or two rows of brick or stone.

A simple solution - if there is no desire to raise the roof

In order for the car to pass freely in height through the low garage doors, you need to make a kind of track inside the garage. To do this, you need to make ditches in the floor, the width should be equal to two sizes of the standard tire width.

In such a simple way, you can raise the height of the gate by 10 - 15 centimeters, but no more.

Raising the roof of the garage and increasing the height of the gate

If the roof of the garage is not a monolithic reinforced concrete floor, then it is quite simple to make a welded metal frame for a shed roof, which is mounted around the perimeter on screw fasteners in the walls.

Another option for raising the height of the gate is to install a metal garage on a welded frame of the required height.

If it is not difficult to raise a metal garage, you only need a welding machine, metal corners, pipes and fittings for a welded frame, then with brick garages in which monolithic reinforced concrete floors are installed, the problem is more complicated. After all, you need to lift a heavy monolithic floor slab.

First, you need to dismantle the top beam of the garage door, then you need to install it again on the cement in the rows of brickwork.

The slab can be lifted using several jacks, which are installed along the edges of the floor slab on which the gate is located. We expose platforms on and under the jacks so that they stand firmly on the ground and put a metal beam on the platform, which abuts against the ceiling.

Now we start lifting the plate, you need to work carefully, lifting each edge of the plate at a time by 10 cm, no more. We immediately insert stubborn bricks or metal corners into the resulting opening.

So we alternately raise each slab to the desired height, and then lay out the brickwork under the raised roof.

If the height of the garage allows you to raise the garage door opening without lifting the roof, then you just need to dismantle the beam of the upper floor of the door frame and knock out several rows of bricks to the desired height.

After that, we install the upper beam again and add the side racks, it is enough to weld metal corner to the desired height.

It is worth noting that the need to raise the garage door can have several reasons. For example, the need to raise the garage door may be required in a situation where the garage door structure is not easy to open not only in winter, but even in summer. What can we say about the winter period, when a layer of snow and ice prevents the opening of the gate? If necessary, you can trim the structure itself. At the same time, the entrance is concreted. This ensures a natural slope. But at the same time, the above described method of raising the entrance gate reduces the dimensions of the structure.

Below we will consider the situation when it is required to maintain the existing level of the garage and slightly raise the gate. In this case, everything is carried out in stages. To begin with, experts advise dismantling the gate and freeing the frame. Then you need to remove several rows of bricks above the garage opening. At the same time, the backfill in the lower section can also be raised. Next, the design of the garage door must be returned to its original position.

Before removing the garage door from the hinges, experts recommend washing the mortar between the bricks of the same row to which the gate will rise. A channel should be installed in place of this row. An alternative option is to install a reliable and high-strength corner. This operation is carried out immediately before the garage door is raised. In addition, this approach will save the structure from possible destruction. The installation of a channel or angle must be carried out by using reliable anchor bolts.

At the same time, do not forget that raising the garage door even by a couple of bricks can significantly increase the available clearance between the gate, as well as the garage floor. In this case, you can use one of several methods to resolve this issue. The most optimal is concreting. In addition, if necessary, you can install a special threshold. Whichever option is chosen, it is worth making sure that the slope is directed from the garage to the street, and not vice versa. Otherwise, do not be surprised that water flows into the garage during rain, causing dampness. And dampness, as any motorist is well aware, causes corrosion of the car body. And dampness is also very harmful to the garage itself. Given all of the above, we can conclude that it is not so difficult to lift the garage door on your own, as it seems at first glance. All steps can be carried out independently, that is, with your own hands.

There is a proverb "I passed the sopromat, I passed everything." And yet, some garage "experts" like to assure that they made "hard gates".

Competent engineers are aware of a simple truth - "hard metal structures No", and a shipbuilding engineer, having heard about the strength of materials, will smile and say that "Strength of materials is a special case of Structural Mechanics, in which movement is not taken into account." This is us to the question of why it is sometimes necessary to raise the garage door. Now a little more detail on how to do this.

The main reasons for changing the geometry of the gate, or opening

General fatigue of the metal, settlement of hinges, natural deformations at the end of installation, settlement of the opening (the frame in which the gate is mounted) for various reasons, some other factors (for example, in hot, cloudless weather a couple of years ago there were problems of thermal deformations of metal structures).

External causes that do not depend on the material part. We bought a car taller - it doesn’t fit in dimensions, they made a mistake in the lower gap - in winter the gate is extremely difficult to open, one of the walls of the garage sank more, which caused the opening to skew, and others that are sometimes difficult to foresee.

In each of these cases, the decision is made individually, but we will consider several simple ways, which are available with a simple tool with an assistant.

Ways to raise (correct the geometry) of the gate

  1. Sagging hinges, (the gate is deformed, or something else). To raise (for example, one sash) you can use a spacer washer. We remove the sash from the hinges, put a washer of the required thickness on the axis of the lower hinge, return the sash to its place. Sometimes it is difficult to pick up the puck, then we put a ball of a suitable diameter into the loop where the hole is.

    This method allows you to correct small distortions of the leaves, slightly raise the gate, and facilitate movement on the loop. Very important! The material of the washer and ball must be of a harder alloy than the loop itself!

  2. The need to change the distance from ground level to the bottom of the wings.

    The easiest way is to cut off the lower part with a grinder, then fix the rubber strip to close the gap. Applicable if the sheathing sheet protrudes beyond the lower frame beams. If the gate is mounted so that the lower beam is at ground level, you will first need to cut the beam, then the metal, weld the beam in place.

    By the way, in our practice there are structures where the lower part (about 10 cm) is mounted on hinges, and when the gate is opened, it can be folded back.

  3. The skew of the valves, due to the deformation of the opening.

    If you do not touch the opening, then the easiest way to determine the skew zone (as a rule, the sashes do not close in the upper or lower part), on the sash that does not give a bow, cut the horizontal beam, cut down a few mm. With effort (you may need a jack), we press the vertical beam of the frame - we weld it. Up to gaps of 7-12 mm, sheet metal deformations will be invisible.

    We must weld the place of welding with an additional metal strip, since residual deformations will occur here! If you do not strengthen this place, the weld will simply tear over time.

  4. The need to increase the height of the opening. The most difficult case, which will take time, the ability to lay bricks, additional equipment. How to do this can be found on construction sites. We will consider a situation where the problem was solved more simply.

An example of a simple solution in a difficult situation

So, the new car did not pass through the dimensions of the upper part of the garage opening. 6-7 cm across the width of the car itself, 14 cm on the right - on the left, at the installation sites of the roof rails (by the way, one of the most common causes when you need to raise the gate in height!).

Some garage craftsmen immediately advised dismantling the upper part of the opening (reducing the number of rows of bricks is a common approach), re-scalding the frame, thus increasing the height of the opening. In fact, it is very difficult to raise the entire upper part by 14 cm (2.5 rows of bricks), but this was not required. How the problem was solved.

  1. In the floor of the garage (concrete, as well as a race with a slope of about 2 meters long), grooves were hollowed out with a width of 2 - 2.5 tires each, a depth of 10 cm. . The bottom of the track was covered with corrugated metal fixed to the floor.
  2. On the example of another machine ( garage cooperatives good because there is always almost the same car - in this case without roof rails). Take into account the difference in tire height. We determined the gap between the roof of the car and the upper frame in the most unloaded state - 7 cm.
  3. On the left and right, in the upper part of the opening, 60 cm of the channel were cut out (the middle part was supported with beams just in case). They knocked out several bricks, and scalded the resulting U-shaped slots with a channel, which was fixed into a brick.
  4. We checked the smooth check-in and check-out on the right car, made sure that everything was done correctly.
  5. After that, I had to lift the necessary sheets a little, since the gates stopped closing these holes, which was done on the spot, after the sashes had already been put in place.

This work was completed. They took three days, it took the help of a neighbor in the garages, it was not necessary to suffer with the task of how to raise the entire upper part of the frame (at the same time increasing the gate).

We hope that when you face a similar problem, this article will help you be smart, use simple solutions, and not try to solve the problem head-on, as experts from the Internet advise.

Source: http://VorotaGate.ru/garazhnye-vorota/kak-podnyat

Do-it-yourself garage doors: how to make a profile and how to raise a structure in a brick garage

Today there are a huge number of designs of garage doors. They differ in structural elements, as well as in the quality of filling. Someone prefers primitive models, while someone equips their car storage with more powerful systems.

Do-it-yourself garage doors are a great option for those who want to equip similar structure durable, maximally suitable in size and filling gates.

What are the types of garage doors and is it possible to design them yourself without the help of professionals and without experience in this matter?

Types of garage doors

There are several varieties of garage doors, most of which appeared not so long ago.

And before you figure out how to make a garage door with your own hands, consider the types of such products:

swing type gate

Swing garage doors.

The most ancient and at the same time reliable option gate. Such structures are installed everywhere: they can be used not only to equip garages, they have earned the trust of many years of trouble-free practice, even in harsh operating conditions.

The design of these samples consists of 2 wings fixed on hinges in the frame. The sashes, if everything is assembled correctly, close tightly without forming gaps between the frame. The mechanism of operation of swing gates is simple, but, as practice shows, it is very reliable.

Retractable type

Gates first began to be used at the beginning of the 20th century. By design, this is one sash that slides to the side parallel to the front wall. There are designs consisting of two wings. In this case, the sashes will move apart on different sides.

There may also be sliding gates folded into several sections. Device Feature similar models is the obligatory presence of free space for moving the valves. Therefore, such structures are most often used to equip hangars and industrial premises.

Lifting and turning mechanisms

Lift gate design.

Their development and production in our country began to be engaged not so long ago. By design, this is one canvas that rises up. The option is suitable for equipping a garage and arranging an entrance to a private plot.

Overhead sectional doors

Like the previous version, the models have recently appeared on our market. They are a panel assembled from sections that refract and move upwards along the guides when the command to open the gate is given with a remote control or a button.

The mechanism works due to the spring in it and guides with a chain drive. One of the biggest benefits is space savings.

Roller type gate

Garage rooms are extremely rarely equipped with such structures, due to their low reliability. Externally - aluminum plates, folding into a special box under the ceiling. Similar designs are most often equipped with objects with security and a pass system.

When choosing a garage door, it is important to take into account not only their appearance, functionality and reviews of advertisers, but also other, more important indicators: strength, durability and the ability to work in specific climatic conditions.

As mentioned earlier, swing gates will be the most reliable and durable option: they work even in any frost and are able to protect the room not only from freezing, but also from burglary, if equipped with a solid locking system.

Do-it-yourself gate: features of the work

Based on the fact that swing gates most often used to equip garages, let's take an example of how to make a simple, but very robust design with your own hands.

Features of welding garage doors.

Having purchased all the necessary consumables and prepared some tools, you can make swing garage doors on your own from start to finish.

For their device, the following materials will be required:

  • steel corners;
  • profiles;
  • metal sheets.

The dimensions of the gates and their features can be designed in advance, which makes it possible to make a design that is most suitable for the parameters of the building and the aesthetic preferences of its owner.

You can try to make a lift-and-turn type gate on your own, but the work requires considerable engineering experience and knowledge. In this case, it is important to understand how the counterweight system is organized and the mechanism itself is installed so that the system works flawlessly.

Most often, structures of this type are purchased in already ready-made, and their installation is carried out in accordance with the instructions attached to the product.

Therefore, if there is a desire to equip your garage with just such a system, then it is advisable to purchase a finished product.

And now let's take a closer look at the specifics of the manufacture of swing garage doors.

Garage door design

Garage door drawing.

As with the organization of any construction business that requires high precision, before proceeding with the manufacture of garage doors, it is necessary to make a project for the future design.

It is not difficult to make a drawing of a garage door on your own, it is enough to sketch a sketch on a regular sheet of paper, measure all the important elements and indicate the location of the hinge connections, the entrance, if it is assumed by the project, and the locking system.

First you need to choose the right height and width of the structure. The width of the wings is considered to be the minimum, at which the distance from the car body on both sides to the frame remained at least 30 cm. Of course, the larger this gap, the easier and more convenient it is to drive a car into the garage.

In practice, the maximum frame width is 5 meters. Most often, the gates are made 2.5-3 meters wide.

The height of the products is selected depending on the dimensions vehicle. Most often it is 2-2.2 meters. If a minibus is stored in the garage, then it is better to expand this parameter to 2.5 meters.

In our case, the structure will consist of a frame and a pair of wings fixed to it by means of hinges. Guided by the project and the dimensions indicated on it, we calculate and purchase the required number of consumables.

Gate frame manufacturing

It is best to start making a frame at the stage of erecting the walls of a garage structure. This will fix the gate in the body of the building, which will make the whole structure more reliable and durable.

During the laying of the front wall, when up to 0.5 m of masonry is ready, construction works suspended and retrained for the installation of the gate frame, after which you can continue to build walls.

To make a frame, you will need steel corners 65 mm, strips 2-3 cm wide, 3-4 mm thick and a reinforcing bar, with which the frame will be fixed in the opening of the structure. As for the tools, the work requires a grinder, a square, a building level, a tape measure and a welding machine.

The garage frame in our case consists of an outer and an inner part.

The manufacturing algorithm for this structural element is as follows:

  1. We cut the corner with a grinder into 4 segments with a length equal to the width of the gate opening.
    You will also need 4 more segments with a length equal to the height of the gate opening.
  2. We place the cut off parts of the corner on flat surface by checking it in advance building level for skew, which is unacceptable at this stage of the construction process.
    We measure all the angles - they should be equal to 90 ° and use a welding machine to weld them together. As a result, you should get an even frame. Corners are welded either with an overlap, or by cutting off their edges and welding butt to butt. The first option, in comparison with the second, is more durable.
  3. On the outside of the frame, carefully remove all welding flaws using a grinder.
    Otherwise, the protruding seams will prevent the sashes from fitting snugly to the frame.

Folding frame manufacturing

Next, we move on to the manufacture of the frame of the gate leaves. It should be slightly smaller in size than the garage door frame itself, which will ensure its easier entry into the opening. Compliance with this condition contributes to a tighter fit of the sashes to the outer side of the frame.

The algorithm for manufacturing the frame part of the valves consists in performing the following steps:

  1. First of all, it is necessary to cut 4 pieces from the corner or profile along the length, less than the height of the frame by 1-1.5 cm.
    Thanks to this gap, the sash will easily go into the opening. Since this design assumes the presence of two wings, 4 more horizontal segments will be required, with a length equal to the width of the main frame, divided in half and minus 3-3.5 cm.
  2. We place the cut off parts of the corner on a flat surface, check them for skew, measure the corners and weld.
    It is better if this process is carried out together with an already welded frame - this way all the flaws and inaccuracies will be visible.
  3. In order to strengthen the structure, we weld a horizontal bar, which acts as a spacer and reduces the risk of withdrawal and distortion of the future structure.

Manufacturing of gates

Sash, as a rule, are made of sheet material. The most practical and reliable is a sheet with a thickness of at least 2 mm.

Ribs for garage doors.

The gate building process is as follows:

  1. First of all, it is necessary to cut 2 canvases from sheet metal: one is 30-40 mm higher than the height of the garage opening and less than 10-20 mm wide of the frame width, the other is the same height, and 20 mm wider than the frame.
  2. The next step is welding the sheets to the frame in such a way that the top and bottom panels protrude onto the frame by 10-20 mm.
    One of the sashes, which will open in the second place, should not fit tightly in width to the edge of the frame, leaving a 10 mm edge free. This will ensure a tighter fit of the second alignment. The panel of the second sash, on the contrary, is welded in such a way that it protrudes beyond the frame part by 20-40 mm.
  3. Next, we proceed to welding reinforced loops.
    The lower half is welded to the main frame, and the upper half to the wings. In order to strengthen the fastening of the hinge, it can be supplemented with a welded metal insert. We take a strip 5-7 mm thick, bend it and weld it to the upper half of the hinges and to the sash. The reinforcing tab is welded from the inside.

Advice! During welding of sheet material, it can lead. In order to avoid skewing of the valves, the corners and the middle of the canvases are first of all tacked by welding, after which the entire sheet is tacked with point movements in increments of 10-15 cm.

If everyone structural elements are on a flat surface, the sashes are located on top of the frame, it is possible to consider whether everything is welded correctly and where there are any flaws. This makes it possible to take corrective action in a timely manner.

If the design is of high quality, then after these works we proceed to install the gate in the garage opening.

Gate installation

First of all, you should install the gate frames: internal and external. Recall that the frame part is installed at the stage of erecting the front wall of the garage structure itself. Do not forget to check the evenness of the frame using a square and a building level.

After that, you can continue laying out the front wall of the structure, embedding the bars into the masonry.

Having reached the top of the structure, a floor beam should be installed on the frame. It can be metal or concrete - at the discretion of the developer. It remains only to hang the sashes on the hinges and check the operation of the entire gate mechanism: how the sashes open / close, whether anything interferes with their movement.

Insulation and installation of constipation, locks

Similar designs can be insulated different material, ranging from polystyrene and ending with mineral wool.

But in recent times Increasingly, extruded polystyrene foam is used for such purposes. It is fixed by laying a lining or other facing material on it: it is enough to expand the insulation inside the sashes and fill, for example, sheets of plywood on top.

It remains only to choose a locking system. Garage structures are most often equipped with a locking system: one sash is closed from the inside with a lock, the other - from the outside with a lock, padlock or internal. If it is a padlock, then it is necessary to equip the wings on the outside with rings.

Outcome

If you follow the tips above, carefully check the correct dimensions, then it is quite possible to get a strong, reliable garage door that will serve you faithfully for a long time. The design makes it possible to insulate the gate by laying the foam from the inside and making the sheathing.

Making a garage door with your own hands takes about 2 days. This product will have a unique size and design, if you want to make something special. Good luck!

Source: https://vseprogarazh.ru/etapy/vorota/garazhnye-vorota-svoimi-rukami/

How to increase the height of the garage door: a step-by-step master class - Mastermont.ru

Often, the height of the gate of an already finished garage does not suit the owner. Perhaps a person decided to buy a new car, say, an SUV, the height of which is higher than ordinary cars, or it became necessary to use the garage for other purposes when it is necessary to drive a small truck inside, for example, a Gazelle.

But the gates for a private garage were previously created using a certain amount of metal in order to save money - the calculation of the amount of materials used was carried out taking into account the size of a standard steel sheet 2-3 mm thick (photo 1).

Photo 1. Standard garage doors

Today, the height of the garage doors of other owners has ceased to suit, and many have begun to increase this size (photo 2).

Photo 2. The height of the front wall allows you to increase the gate

Buying materials and choosing a tool

Of course, you can invite specialists who will do it quickly and efficiently. However, not everyone has enough money to pay for the work of hired workers and purchase the materials they use. Often, craftsmen require the purchase of new metal, which is an order of magnitude more expensive than the one that was already in use.

In turn, the garage owner can pick up the necessary rolled metal from an organization that collects scrap metal. The material selected from scrap can cost 2-3 times less than you have to pay for new rolled metal. At the same time, the strength of metal structures made of old metal is quite enough to ensure the strength of the finished product.

But it is not recommended to save on tools and equipment. It is necessary to prepare the workplace by setting strong scaffolding to the required height - when performing work, a person must be in a stable position, which will prevent him from falling with a working tool and getting injured.

The hammer and angle grinder must be powerful, and equipment such as drills and cutting wheels must be of good quality, which will determine the speed of work and the safety of the worker.

For example, for sawing through a brick wall, it is recommended to use special cutting diamond wheels. For welding, it is enough to use a small inverter welding machine that runs on a conventional 220V network and welds metal with electrodes with a diameter of 3-4 mm.

I would like to add that such work should be undertaken by a person who has at least a little idea how to use specialized equipment, and who has little practical skills in using such tools.

Tools and equipment

  • Scaffolding;
  • Powerful angle grinder;
  • Perforator or powerful drill;
  • Plumb;
  • Construction level;
  • Inverter welding machine;
  • Welding helmet (it is recommended to choose a mask of the "Chameleon" type);
  • Welding gloves and preferably a welding suit;
  • Two cutting wheels for metal;
  • Cutting wheels for concrete, one of which has a maximum diameter (photo 3 and 4);
  • Drill for metal d=8.5 mm;
  • Drill for concrete d=8 mm;
  • MP3 electrodes with a diameter of 3 mm, although it is possible to work with electrodes of 4 mm;
  • A hammer;
  • Bit;
  • 13 open-end wrench for anchor bolts;
  • Plastic film to protect the garage from dust;
  • Respirator to protect the respiratory tract;
  • Special glasses that protect the eyes from dust and small pebbles that form when making channels for a new gate frame;
  • Clothing that maximally protects parts of the body from dust.

Photo 3. A set of cutting wheels for concrete

Photo 4. Cutting wheel for concrete maximum diameter

materials

  • Corner with a shelf width of 40-75 mm for building the door frame (focus on the corner from which the frame is already made);
  • Corner with a shelf width of 30-35 mm for the gate frame;
  • Sheet scraps 2-2.5 mm thick.

The amount of rolled metal and sheet dimensions are calculated based on the area by which the gate will increase.

Procedure for building gates

The scaffolding is firmly and stably installed.

The contour of the new frame of the garage door is outlined.

Inside the garage, a plastic film is fixed in such a way as to prevent dust generated during operation from entering the room.

The corner prepared for building up the gate frame is cut, with a note of each segment about its location in the structure.

The brickwork of the garage walls is cut along the contour of the new gate frame, first outside the garage. It is better to cut the wall horizontally along the seam located between the bricks (photo 5), which will facilitate the even laying of the channel and the further removal of the excess masonry array.

Photo 5. Sawing a masonry seam

A vertical cut is made along the outlined contour (photo 6) with a maximum recess in the existing part of the frame for ease of installation of a new design (photo 7).

Photo 6. Cut along the intended contour

Photo 7. Recess in the frame

The sufficiency of the depth of the strobe is checked by the segment remaining when cutting the corner with a shelf width of 40-75 mm (photo 8).

Photo 8. Checking the depth of the strobe

After completing the cut from the outside (photo 9), the sections of the corner for the frame are installed (photo 10) with careful welding of the seams at the junction of the segments (photo 11). When installing corner segments, it is advisable to check their location using a plumb line and a building level.

After checking, the structural elements are fixed in some way, after which the seams are welded.

In the case of the extension shown in the photographs, the gate was installed incorrectly during the construction of the garage, which had to be compensated by adjusting the newly created frame and sash structure, which will be especially noticeable in the photographs with the already enlarged gate. When performing welding work, it is recommended to have a fire extinguishing agent nearby.

Photo 9. The cut is ready

Photo 10. Installation of segments for the corner of the frame

Photo 11. It is necessary to carefully weld the seams at the junction of the segments

For better attachment to the existing masonry of the structure being created, it is advisable to use anchor expansion bolts (photo 12).

Photo 12. In these conditions, it is best to use anchor expansion bolts

The diameter of the bolts used is 8 mm with a length of 60 mm (photo 13). It is enough to fix the horizontal segment of the corner in four places. First, a hole is drilled in the corner to the brickwork with a metal drill for 8.5 mm, and then the hole for the anchor bolt is deepened with a drill for concrete by 8 mm to the desired depth. After that, anchor bolts are inserted, and the structure is attached to the wall.

Photo 13. Anchor spacer bolts 60 mm long and 8 mm in diameter

After assembling and fixing the new structure from the outside, the necessary wall cuts are made from the inside, after which the elements of the gate frame are assembled in the same order and fastened from the inside.

The next stage is the preparation of parts for building up the sashes. To do this, cutting the existing sheets and cutting the corner with a shelf width of 30-35 mm into segments of the required length is performed.

Next, the fabric of the stackable section of each of the gate leaves is assembled. The assembled sections of the canvases are butt-welded from above to the gate leaves, and for fixing they are attached to the new section of the frame by spot welding in several places (photo 14).

Photo 14. Assembly of the canvas and fixing to the frame by spot welding

After that, excess brick is removed from the inside of the garage, gently chipping when using chisel and hammer tools. Before extracting excess sections of the wall, it is also necessary to fix the inner part of the stackable structure of the gate frame with anchor bolts (photo 15).

Photo 15. The inside of the canvas must also be fixed with anchor bolts

When the unnecessary pieces of the wall are removed, the frame structure is additionally strengthened and the extension of the gate leaves is reinforced with a frame (photo 16). All new structural elements that increase the size of the gate are thoroughly welded, because the strength of the finished product depends on this.

Photo 16. The whole structure is thoroughly boiled

The lower locks of the gate are fitted in place when new elements are added to the existing frame (photo 17). Then the floor is poured to the required level, or the gate frame is completely built up from below.

Photo 17. Adjustment of the lower constipation

The upper locks of the gate are built up and adjusted along the upper edge of the enlarged frame (photo 18).

Photo 18

On the outer side of the gate, the upper hinges are cut off and welded higher due to the increased size of the leaves (photos 19 and 20).

Photo 19

Photo 20

The final step is painting the gate with special paint (photo 21). It is recommended to use a coloring composition that performs three functions - the paint replaces the primer, if necessary, converts rust and creates a protective paint layer on the metal.

Photo 21. New painted gate

If a person has little skills in working with a special tool for concrete and has an idea about welding, then he will be able to build the gate on his own, thus saving significant funds from the family budget.

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