Do-it-yourself drywall walls - make your own durable and reliable structures. Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall construction: step-by-step instructions, useful tips How to make a plasterboard wall

As they say: My home is my castle! Let's talk about how to create fortress walls with your own hands. One of the most popular materials for leveling walls and creating partitions is drywall. Do DIY plasterboard walls Not only fast way but also reliable. Drywall is a sheet of gypsum, pasted over on both sides with sheets of paperboard. Its main task is to create smooth and smooth surfaces. It is similar in characteristics to wood, but compared to it, it is fire resistant, which means it does not burn. The advantage of drywall is its low thermal conductivity, which maintains the macroclimate in the house. Drywall is environmentally friendly. It is advisable to start doing the installation of the cladding during the finishing work. When the wiring of technical and electrical systems is completed. At a temperature not lower than +10° C. In winter, with the heating turned on.

What is required for work:

Level
simple pencil
Electric or manual scissors for cutting metal.
Screwdriver to drill self-tapping screws into the structure.
A cutter, with its help you will carry out a cut with a bend, which will serve as a fastening of the profiles to each other.
Direct suspension - necessary for hanging the structure on the ceiling.
A single-level connector in the common people is a crab - it is necessary to connect the structure at the same level.
Self-tapping screws. For connecting drywall and profiles to each other
Measuring tool, it can be a standard tape measure or laser.
Construction material - Gypsum board.
Construction knife.
Profile. To install drywall walls, you will need a rack profile and a guide.

Grooves are made in the rack-mount for centering fasteners. And specially designed technological holes for laying the channel cable and other wires.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step execution of drywall walls:

Markup. To begin with, we mark the design position of the partition on the wall and ceiling.
Frame installation. We cut the profile for the guides to the required length with special scissors. To improve the soundproofing characteristics, a sealing tape equal to the width of the product is glued to the guide profiles. Using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver, we fasten the guide profile to the ceiling, pay attention if the wall is strongly curved, then pressing the profile to it, we deform it. In such cases, cut the profile before fixing, and then fix it.
By level, we measure straight lines to the floor. It is necessary to make and cut a profile that is mounted on the floor. Between the attachment points, the distance is not more than 1 meter, with at least three attachments per profile.
Install side profiles. In the corners, they are connected to each other with the help of a cutter, and they are attached to the wall with a screwdriver and screws.
Determine the height of the rack profiles using measuring instrument. Cut the rack profile to size. Next, we mount the rack profile. Make sure that it is strictly vertical. For greater reliability, attach the rack profile to the wall using hangers.
We install transverse stiffeners, which are interconnected using fasteners and a single-level connector, the so-called crab. A space is formed between the system and the wall, which, if necessary, is filled with mineral wool. To protect your hands from injury, work must be done with gloves. Mineral wool will serve as a heater and sound insulator. So, the frame for installing drywall is ready. The top structure rests on profiles, as well as transverse profiles, which give rigidity to the structure. The design is aligned horizontally and vertically.
Now we are preparing a drywall sheet. Check if it fits the design parameters. If there is a need to cut the sheet, first mark the required size on each side, then attach a metal ruler, cut the cardboard and part of the gypsum core with a cutting knife. Break the sheet along the notch line, and cut the cardboard along the other side of the sheet. Attention! It is not advisable to draw a line with a pencil and make an incision along the line. In this case, you will not be able to cut straight, it is better to cut along the ruler. After preparing the drywall sheet, begin to close the structure. For the installation of building material, you will need self-tapping screws with a countersunk head. The screws should enter the drywall at a 90° angle. When attaching building material, the sheet must be less than the height of the room and is 10 mm from the floor. After everything is installed, you can complete the positions associated with sockets and light bulbs.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard walls by gluing.

The frame method is not the only way to level the wall surface. There is another option - gluing a sheet of drywall. Sticking - simplest way revet the surface with drywall. Gluing is suitable if you need to save squares of a house or apartment. Let's take a look at the gluing process. An important role is played by surface preparation, this should not be missed in any work. What includes surface preparation, the first thing you need to do is check the base for sagging, weak areas, remove plaster or wallpaper. Also clean from dust.

Remember! When installing profiles, the backrests must face the same direction. Make sure that the openings for passing communications are at the same level in accordance with the project.

Absorbent surfaces are pre-treated with a deep penetrating primer, which must be dried for at least 4 hours. If the base is uneven more than 20 mm, level the surface by gluing strips of drywall 10 cm wide. Take ordinary mounting glue. We do not recommend taking risks and gluing to something else, for example, some recommend using mounting foam, but this method most likely will not live up to expectations. The glue is poured into a container, after which it is filled with water, and mixed with a special mixer. A different cooking sequence will result in lumps and the risk of an unworkable mixture. The glue is applied with a trowel on the sheet or directly on the base in small flat piles at a distance of about 20 cm and from the center of the sheet in 35 cm increments. It is advisable to work with the glue quickly, otherwise it may freeze. After applying the adhesive, the drywall is lifted, placed on linings 10–15 mm high from the floor level and pressed against the wall.

With light blows, it is brought to the design position by checking the verticality or horizontality with a level. Further work is carried out similarly with the rest of the sheets. After completion, you can start filling the joints using reinforcing tape, putty and a spatula.

Attention! It is not necessary to drill holes in the profile in advance for their subsequent fastening.

Plasterboard wall finish.

Well, here is the finish line. It doesn't matter which of the two methods is used for wall cladding with drywall. In any case, now it remains to putty all the defects that affect the aesthetic side of the structure. Finishing is identical. The preparation of drywall for finishing can be either puttying the seams or completely puttingtying the surface. If drywall sheets have irregularities and defects, then they must be removed. Then we apply sealing tape to the joints. It is necessary to close up all the joints, and then proceed to the putty. To work, you will need a spatula and putty mixture. When working with gypsum mixtures, use tools and utensils made of stainless material. Puttying work is carried out from 5 to 30 C. in a draft-free room. The spatula should be slightly curved in an arc in order not to leave marks. According to the rules, putty must be applied from dry to wet, if applied from wet to dry, traces will remain. We advise you to pay special attention to sealing the recesses from the self-tapping screws. For wallpaper, one layer of putty is sufficient, if the walls are to be painted, two layers are needed. After finishing the putty, you can start decorating the walls. You can wallpaper, paint, decorate with decorative ceramic tiles or finish with stone.

"Don't judge a house by the owner, but judge the owner by the condition of the house." Are the fortress walls ready? You have made a good choice, as this building material has a lot of advantages. 11 advantages of drywall:

A large selection that offers different characteristics for any conditions.
Available in price. In comparison, if you plaster and putty, finishing with plasterboard sheets will cost several times cheaper.
Possesses the heat-insulating ability.
Soundproof.
Small specific gravity. When finishing with drywall, slight pressure on the foundation and supporting structures.
Easy to use. Suitable for both professional and novice.
The material has the ability to absorb moisture when there is an excess in the air and gives it away if the air is too dry.
Refractory. Refers to non-combustible materials.
Reliably. Over the years, it does not crack, does not crumble.
Environmentally friendly material.
Design possibility. Thanks to drywall, you can realize original ideas in interior design.

Making drywall walls with your own hands is quite easy. Provided that all actions are performed correctly, the result will be reliable and will serve you. long years! In conclusion, let's say that drywall is the obvious leader in installation. various kinds structures and alignment of walls. Remember, the work must be done with a soul, then the result will please you and the rest of the family twice as much. Because home is not just a place, it is a state of mind.

Redevelopment of the interior space can make living in a country house or apartment much more comfortable. You can perform such a procedure, including with your own hands. Partitions can be erected in apartments or houses using different building materials. However, when doing do-it-yourself redevelopment, in most cases drywall is used to assemble such structures.

One of the main advantages of this modern material is the ease of installation. The construction of drywall walls is a relatively simple procedure. It will not be difficult even for a novice home master to assemble such a design.

Main steps

Installation of walls and partitions made of plasterboard in country houses and apartments usually using this technology:

indoors, using a level or level, marking is performed;

the frame of the partition is mounted from metal profile;

if necessary, soundproofing material is installed in the frame;

wiring is being laid;

the assembled frame is sheathed with drywall on both sides.

On the final stage a do-it-yourself GKL wall is primed and plastered or pasted over, for example, with wallpaper.

What tools will be required

Before proceeding with the assembly of a plasterboard wall or partition, of course, you need to prepare everything necessary tools. Needed for installation of a similar design:

perforator with a drill for concrete;

grinder and scissors for metal;

drill or screwdriver;

level or level;

rule, plumb.

The choice of drywall

For the installation of plasterboard walls, according to the regulations, it is supposed to use sheets with a thickness of at least 12 mm. For ordinary rooms - a bedroom, a living room, a hall - you can purchase simple cheap material in white or light gray. In wet rooms - in the bathroom or in the sauna - it is supposed to mount more expensive green GKL.

The price of moisture-resistant drywall in building supermarkets is approximately 240-250 rubles. per sheet 2500 x 1200 x 12.5 mm. An ordinary plasterboard of the same size costs about 160-200 rubles.

When choosing drywall sheets, you should, of course, pay attention to their brand. Good reviews from consumers deserved, for example, GKL "Knauf", "Volma", budget "Decorator".

In addition to simple GKL sheets, in most cases, simple steel self-tapping screws are purchased. Green moisture-resistant drywall on the frame is fixed using galvanized fasteners of this type. Such self-tapping screws in conditions of high humidity will last as long as possible.

When buying GKL, therefore, it is important to pay attention to their thickness. And the size of drywall sheets, however, is also quite an important indicator. It is believed that for standard rooms with a ceiling height of 2.5 m, for example, GKL 2.5-3 m long is most suitable.

How to choose a frame profile

Thus, we found out which drywall for walls is best suited. But for the construction of reliable structures of this type, it is important to choose the right profile, of course. In building supermarkets, if desired, you can purchase as metal elements for assembly supporting structure plasterboard walls, and made of timber. The material of the first variety among consumers is the most popular.

Metal profiles are no more expensive than wooden elements. However, they can last longer. After all, they do not rot over time, do not dry out and do not become infected with a fungus. In addition, such elements are easier to install. Choose a profile for the installation of plasterboard walls:

CD - guide parts;

UD - guides for mounting CD;

CW - filter for carcass development;

UW - guide for CW.

Intermediate elements of the frame of plasterboard walls are fixed with the help of special connectors and direct hangers.

How to markup correctly

Drywall walls are attached to the main structures of the building during construction through the upper and lower profiles, as well as through racks. It is under these elements in the shared room that markings should be applied. Perform this procedure in most cases in the following sequence:

draw a line on the ceiling for the upper profile;

the same line is marked on the floor using plumb lines;

draw lines along the walls on both sides of the future partition, connecting the upper and lower markings.

To perform the markup, in addition to the level and plumb line, it will be very convenient to use a paint cord. The use of this device will make it possible to make the most even, uninterrupted lines on the walls, floor and ceiling.

How to properly assemble the frame

The ceiling and floor guides are mounted first in the room. Then they are connected with profiles along the walls. All frame elements are fixed at this stage with dowel-nails, placing them in increments of no more than 60 cm.

Further, when assembling the frame, intermediate vertical racks are installed. They are mounted in increments of 60 cm. In some cases, to increase the strength index, walls or partition walls are placed at a distance of 40 cm from each other. A profile of the PP type is used to assemble the vertical plane of the frame. Such elements are pre-cut to the desired length. Fasten the vertical posts to the upper and lower rails using self-tapping screws with a press washer.

Drywall - the material is known to be quite fragile. Hanging any objects directly on it - a TV, a cabinet, etc., of course, is impossible. In this case, support for furniture or household appliances should be provided precisely at the stage of assembling the frame. Under such objects in the supporting structure of the partition, additional profiles are mounted.

If desired, when assembling the frame House master can also save on material. When cutting a profile, there are always a lot of scraps, the length of which is not enough for the installation of the main elements of the supporting structure. Such pieces, however, can still be used. It will not be difficult to lengthen the trim if necessary using special elements called connectors. With the help of the same additional elements, the main profiles are also connected if their length is not enough. This is usually done when installing plasterboard wall frames in rooms with very high ceilings.

The frame assembled from a metal profile in most cases turns out to be durable and reliable. However, when installing plasterboard walls and partitions of a large area, it is desirable to further strengthen the supporting structure using wooden bars. Such elements are placed horizontally over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe frame. A very good solution would be to use such reinforcement when building plasterboard walls in a wet room.

How to install soundproofing

As a noise-absorbing material when assembling walls and partitions from gypsum boards, the following are most often used:

mineral wool;

expanded polystyrene.

In this case, mineral wool is considered the most suitable option for soundproofing material. The advantages of such sheets include, among other things, ease of installation. When assembling a plasterboard partition, such material does not even have to be additionally fixed with anything. Mineral wool differs, among other things, in elasticity. Therefore, you can simply install it in the frame by surprise. In addition, this material deserves good feedback and for a low price. The cost of building plasterboard walls using mineral wool can in any case be significantly reduced.

Before proceeding with the installation of the sound insulator, in the frame of the future partition, of course, you need to conduct electrical wiring. When performing this procedure, first determine the location of the sockets and switches. The wires themselves inside the future partition are pulled in a special pipe. When using this technology, it will be extremely simple to replace the cable in the future if necessary. According to safety requirements, the pipe for laying wires inside plasterboard walls is supposed to be corrugated.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall: step-by-step instructions for installing sheets

GKL themselves are attached to the assembled frame using, as already mentioned, self-tapping screws. Previously, drywall is cut out depending on the configuration of the supporting structure. Cut sheets using a construction knife. At the same time, cardboard is pre-cut on both sides along pre-drawn lines. Then the sheet is carefully broken along the line of cuts.

GKL "Knauf", "Decorator" and any other are attached to the frame profiles, sinking self-tapping screws into their body. At the same time, fasteners are located in increments of 20 cm. When sinking self-tapping screws, among other things, they try not to tear the cardboard. In any case, the hats of such fasteners should not protrude above the plasterboard surface. Otherwise finished wall in the future it will be impossible to tile or, for example, paste over with wallpaper.

Using this technology, both ordinary and moisture-resistant drywall are fixed. The price of both these types of sheets is relatively low. However, this rather fragile material must be carefully cut and mounted. This will minimize waste, and therefore reduce the cost of building a wall.

The assembled frame should be sheathed, slowly, carefully aligning the drywall sheets. In order for the wall to subsequently look as even and tidy as possible, before installation on the gypsum plasterboard, markings can be applied according to the location of the profiles of the supporting structure. It is easiest to make such marks using a long ruler and simple pencil.

What rules should be observed when sheathing

To mount the sheets on the frame when erecting drywall walls should be in compliance with the following recommendations:

each sheet should have at least 3 profiles - one in the middle and two along the edges;

2 adjacent sheets should be joined in the middle;

each drywall sheet on the frame must be securely fixed to the profile with self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter.

Before installation, it is advisable not only to cut the sheets, but also to make a small groove along their end. This will subsequently greatly facilitate the sealing of seams between the sheets.

Puttying

Walls and partitions assembled from drywall usually have flat surface. Thick wallpapers or, for example, PVC panels can be attached to such structures without prior puttying. In all other cases, such a procedure is considered necessary.

Putty for drywall is chosen depending on what type of fine finish they are going to use in the future. For example, on sale today there are compositions of this variety, intended for application to wallpaper, for painting, for tiles, etc.

In any case, the actual puttying technology itself will look something like this:

smear with the selected composition of the pits remaining above the recessed self-tapping screws;

glue the joints between the sheets with a sickle;

pass the joints with putty in such a way as to completely close the sickle;

Remove blemishes with sandpaper.

At the next stage, when erecting drywall walls with their own hands, they begin to apply the main layer of putty on the gypsum board. At the same time, using a spatula 40 cm long, coat the walls with the selected composition and carefully level it. Thus, the entire plasterboard surface of the partition is treated. Then they wait for the applied layer to dry and proceed to its processing with sandpaper or a paint grater. Instead of a grater, if desired, you can use a regular wooden block.

As soon as the walls are completely aligned, they begin to prime them. With this procedure, you can make the drywall surface not only smoother, but also more durable. In addition, when priming, dust is removed from the GKL mounted on the frame. The composition for performing this procedure, of course, should be chosen for working with gypsum.

Doors and window

Of course, in almost any partition mounted in a residential area, including plasterboard, doors are equipped. Sometimes windows are also made in such structures. Of course, sheathing openings in plasterboard partitions and walls should be correct.

At the location of the window or door, a CW profile is usually installed. It should be mounted with the front side inside the opening. In such elements, among other things, you need to insert bars of the appropriate section. First, it will strengthen the frame. And secondly, if there is a bar between the profiles, it will be easier to install a frame or a box in the future.

When assembling interior walls from drywall, the door is mounted as follows:

a box is going on the floor;

the box is installed in the opening and fixed with wedges;

using a level or level, the evenness of the installation of the box is checked;

the box is fixed in the opening by screwing through it and the profiles of self-tapping screws reinforced with timber;

the gap between the racks and the box is filled with mounting foam.

At the final stage in the box, it is hung on hinges interior door. Approximately the same technology when assembling drywall partitions and walls are mounted and double-glazed windows. Sometimes such openings in plasterboard walls inside the premises are left unglazed. In this case, the profile along the edges of the window is also reinforced with bars. Next, a decorative frame is inserted into the opening. If desired, the last element in the window can not be mounted. In this case, its slopes will simply need to be sealed with drywall strips.

Instead of a conclusion

Here is such a one and it is provided for the assembly of GKL partitions step-by-step instruction. A plasterboard wall, built with your own hands in accordance with all the rules, will subsequently last for many years. When assembling such a structure, it is important to observe the step between the fasteners, carefully, with preliminary marking, cut and install the sheets, use a suitable putty. In this case, the GKL wall or partition will turn out to be even, beautiful and reliable.

The use of drywall for re-planning movements is an excellent choice in favor of quality and easy installation. And GKL sheets are cheaper than glass, forged metal or natural wood. Installation of drywall partitions is easy to do on your own, if you pick up quality materials and tools to make the process easier.

Before planning and destroying old floors, it is necessary to obtain permission from the house management, otherwise independent intervention in the apartment scheme may affect the safety of the whole house. If redevelopment is planned in a private cottage, then there is no need to approach the process so strictly.

The main material for mounting a plasterboard partition is sheets. They are divided into several types according to different indicators. The main one is thickness. If the structure is being erected for purely decorative purposes, there will be no door in it, and shelves and other heavy parts are not provided on the sides, then the thickness of the product may be minimal.

Important! The thickness of the sheets is selected not “by eye”, but according to calculations: the sum of the thickness of the insulation layer, all layers of drywall and the frame.

Regardless of the type of drywall used, builders identify a number of advantages of this material:

The optimal thickness for sheets is 12 mm. Such material is used in rooms with normal humidity indicators. If the partition is made in the bathroom or shower, you need to take moisture-resistant drywall (it has a delicate mint color).

Types of drywall

The next most important material is the profile. Conventional ceiling profiles cannot be used, as they are not sufficiently reliable. Most often, reinforced guides and rack-mount metal profiles are used. They come in different types and thicknesses - from 50 x 40 mm to 100 x 40 mm.

Additional materials:

dowel;
self-tapping screws with a press washer;
self-tapping screws for metal;
sealing tape and reinforcing tape for seams;
acrylic primer;
putty;
serpyanka mesh for sealing seams.

The tools necessary for the construction of the partition are marked with a separate item.

Tools needed for the job

When installing a partition from a gypsum board, construction tools are used.

It is better not to replace them with improvised means, but to prepare everything in advance:

This set of tools and equipment for mounting a partition is used if it is straight, without curved shapes and additional angles. Additionally, you can buy a riveter for processing a metal profile.

How to install a drywall partition

Before you install a drywall partition, you need to make sure that you have all the tools. It is better to start the process in daylight. Do-it-yourself partition installation takes place in several stages, and one of the most important is marking. Never skip it, especially if you are installing a similar design for the first time.

Marking

It is necessary to start the installation of drywall partitions with markings. Do this on the floor using a long ruler, a level and a building corner.

The line must be perfectly even, because subsequently a profile guide is attached to it:

It is necessary to make markings on the ceiling with particular accuracy, otherwise the design will turn out to be a curve, which will lead to its premature wear and the impossibility of mounting the door.

Frame installation

After the markup has been applied and made sure of its evenness, guide profiles are installed. First, they put the part on the floor and fix it with dowels, bypassing the place for the door.

Advice! Holes for fasteners are made when the guides lie on the floor strictly according to the markup, after which the guides can be moved.

Having removed the guides, the master hammers plugs-dowels into the holes in the floor. Then the guide profiles are put in place and screwed with self-tapping screws. After that, they make the final reconciliation of the markup, comparing the floor profile with the line on the ceiling. To do this, use a plumb line.

Next, the rack profile is fixed along the lines on the walls, constantly checking the position of the metal in terms of level so that there are no deviations to the side. The bottom of the vertical element is installed in the horizontal rail. If fastening occurs to concrete walls, use the same method as on the floor. If the walls are wooden, then the screws are screwed in without dowels. After installing the side strips, they proceed to the installation of the ceiling guide.

Advice! It is necessary to screw in the screws at a distance of up to 300 mm from each other.

Fastening to the ceiling occurs in the same way as to the floor. The next step is to determine the position of the door on the ceiling profile. To do this, use a plumb line, comparing the floor markings with the ceiling. Height measurements are taken for the frame parts that will frame the door. The required blanks are cut with scissors.

The vertical profile must be perfectly straight at this point.

The height of the door is marked on it, the crossbar from the profile is screwed according to the marks and reinforced with a wooden bar. Vertical posts are attached to it. Self-tapping screws are installed in the end.

If the ceilings in an apartment or house are high, then the installation of interior partitions is accompanied by the use of additional vertical profiles. They are fastened approximately every 500 - 700 mm.

Now you need to measure the space between the door and the openings, calculate how many vertical racks will be required. They are fastened 300-600 mm apart. The required number of racks are cut out of the metal profile, then they are installed with their ends inside the guides. Process control building level. It is necessary to fasten the profiles with self-tapping screws with larger hats.

electrical wiring

When the frame is completely ready, they do it inside electrical wiring. You can do this after the installation of drywall partitions - sheets - on one side is completed. In the profiles, you need to make holes through which the wires are pulled. All wiring must be covered with corrugated or smooth tubes to protect against possible damage.

Sheathing the frame with drywall

The big stage is the sheathing of the frame according to the size of the GKL with sheets. It is necessary to fasten drywall with prominent self-tapping screws (most often they use black ones, created specifically for fixing plasterboard). Fastener heads are deepened by 1 mm.

If the sheets are too large, they are cut off:

If the sheets are cut, then they lose their chamfer. This impairs the installation of a plasterboard partition. To make a bevel, you can use a planer with a beveled knife.

Advice! If elements are used in the partition to turn on electricity, then holes in the sheets are cut with crowns of the desired diameter. Through them wires are output after complete installation designs.

You can also install a box for a switch or socket on the finished half. As soon as one side is installed, insulation is laid out in the space: isover, mineral wool, polystyrene foam. Empty space must not be left, otherwise it will lead to the appearance of an echo in the room and other undesirable consequences.

Installing the door frame

The remaining empty doorway is processed last:

A door jamb with hinges is installed according to the level, using larger self-tapping screws.
The heads of the self-tapping screws are deepened into wooden racks boxes.
The door is suspended (it is desirable to choose the lightest canvas possible).

If problems arise due to insufficiently even installation of profiles, or if the opening is slightly larger, use wooden spacers. The remaining gaps are filled with mounting foam. When it is completely dry, the protruding parts are cut out with a knife.

Seam sealing

The final stage of the installation of partitions from GKL is the sealing of all seams, including the heads of self-tapping screws and nails. At this stage, a sickle mesh is used. It is best to choose a material with applied glue, then the installation will be faster:

After all the procedures, they proceed to the stage of finishing the finished partition.

Finishing

Careful finishing is essential to decorative materials lay down evenly and correctly on the sheets. A sloppy look will nullify all the efforts of the builder.

The finish is completed with the final layer of putty, after which it is treated with fine-grained sandpaper.

After cleaning the wall of dust, apply an additional layer of primer and wait for complete drying. Now you can stick wallpaper or other decorative elements.

Creating a drywall partition with your own hands is not only a simple, but also an exciting process that even a beginner can handle. The main thing is to strictly follow the recommendations and not skip the steps.

Repair work are carried out in order to improve the interior of an apartment, house or any other premises. And one of the indicators of quality repairs are smooth walls, finished beautiful material. There are two ways to make the walls smooth and suitable for subsequent finishing:

using a plaster mixture;
using sheathing material, for example, drywall sheets.

And if some knowledge and skills are needed to carry out plastering work, then an ordinary home master can handle the HL. But for wall cladding with drywall with your own hands, it is necessary to prepare all the materials and tools, without which these works cannot be completed.

What do you need to have to work?

Like any other work, the installation of a drywall wall depends entirely on the material used. And drywall sheets alone may not be enough, although surface finishing is allowed using only this material. But in most cases, you will need metal profiles, which are divided into guides (UW) and wall (CW).

Guide profiles are made in three widths. Depending on the situation, a profile with a width of 50, 75 and 100 mm can be used. The length of each profile has one size - 3 m, which is the standard for any production. The main difference between the wall profile is the presence of stiffeners, which give it a higher strength, which makes the walls so high quality.

But the question arises, how to make drywall walls with your own hands without direct suspensions? It is this element that gives the frame rigidity, which is necessary for all rooms where it can be located. a large number of of people. Hangers have perforated edges, which provide convenient fastening of the profile in the required position.

In addition, you will need dowel-nails, which provide quick installation of direct suspensions on the base to be trimmed. To fasten the profile to each other, as well as to the suspensions, you will need self-tapping screws with a press washer and self-tapping screws with a drill.

1 - drywall self-tapping screw; 2 - dowel nail; 3 - self-tapping screw with a press washer; 4 - self-tapping screw with a drill

Any drywall walls will be easier to do if you have:

perforator;
screwdriver;
scissors for metal;
building and laser level;
laser level;
a hammer;
hacksaw;
tape measure and pencil;
ladders.

Using these items, you can get a job well done, the result of which will be a high-quality and durable drywall wall, created by yourself.

The device frame for drywall

To get a drywall wall, you need to install a frame on which sheets of this material will be attached. First you need to install a guide profile, which must pass around the entire perimeter of the room to be finished. Frame walls they are assembled with their own hands quite simply, if you first mark up and install direct suspensions. But everything should start with the guides, which will set the contour of the future wall.

The guides must be fixed to the floor and ceiling, fixing them with dowel-nails, every 50-80 cm. To do this, you need to use a hammer drill, with which drilling holes in concrete will be much easier. Dowel-nails are inserted into these holes and hammered until fully installed.

After installing the guides, you can start marking work. Doing drywall walls with your own hands will be much faster if marking is done for each profile that will make up the frame. You need to start from the corner of the room in which the first profile should be located. From it, you need to start laying off segments of 40 cm. Each mark will indicate the center of the profile, so the joints of the drywall sheets will always fall on the vertical stand.

Such marking must be done on all walls that are to be sheathed with drywall. It is convenient to drill holes for direct suspensions according to the laser marking on the wall - this will allow you to keep the lines vertical. Hangers on the base must be installed every 50 cm, which will make the drywall wall noticeably stronger.

When the markings and suspensions are ready, you can proceed with the installation of wall profiles. This can be done quickly, since everything has already been prepared for this operation. The supporting profile is inserted into the guides from above and below, which makes it less mobile. The vertical relationship between the two profiles can be controlled by a plumb line, starting from the top of the frame. Then, using the building level, the profiles are aligned vertically and fixed to the suspensions. This is how the entire frame is mounted: the suspensions are installed strictly according to the marks made, which should go strictly in the center of the profiles.

Installing sheets on walls

Once the frame is ready, it is worth starting to fix the drywall sheets. Installation of the material can be carried out by one person, but for work in more comfortable conditions, it would be better to invite an assistant who will support the sheets while they are mounted on the wall. Sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws, the length of which is 27 mm. The heads of the self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the drywall so that they do not stick out on its surface.

The drywall wall will be much stronger if the self-tapping screws are twisted every 20 cm. In addition to the perimeter of the sheets, they are also twisted into those racks that are in the central part. The markings that were made before starting work will help not to miss. It is necessary to leave a small gap between the sheets of material so that during the finishing of the sheets, the putty has the opportunity to penetrate into the depth of the seam.

When decorating windows and doorways drywall sheets must be cut along the contour of the available space. For a straight cut, you can use a regular knife, and to cut a corner, use a simple hacksaw. A knife cuts a layer of paper on one side, and then the sheet is folded at the cut site. After the plaster bursts along the cut line, the paper is cut off on the other side, and the resulting edge is processed with a planer.

Installing drywall with glue

If the walls have differences of no more than 20 mm, then you can build a plasterboard wall with your own hands using glue. To do this, you need to prepare an adhesive mixture, and then apply it to the inside of the sheet. The glue is applied in large dots at a small distance from each other. Then the sheet leans against the base and is pressed tightly over the entire area.

At this time, until the glue has set, it is necessary to check the vertical wall with a building level. If an adjustment is required, then you should not hesitate with it, because after the glue starts to dry, it will no longer be possible to do this. All other steps for working with sheets will be exactly the same as in the case of a frame wall.

Drywall partition device

To make a drywall partition with your own hands, you need to mark the future new wall. Having drawn the outline of the partition on the floor, it is transferred to the ceiling. To do this, use a laser level. When this is done, the guides are mounted according to the markup. If there is no laser level, then you can use a plumb line. Then the contour will need to be drawn on the ceiling, and then transferred to the floor.

Next, the future racks are marked, which should be located at a distance of 40 to 60 cm from each other. After that, you can make a set of racks with their subsequent fastening to the guide profiles. The width of the partition will depend entirely on the width of the profile used.

The mounted frame can be filled with insulation, which will serve as a soundproofing material. You can lay the heater in the spacer. This is facilitated by plates of dense mineral wool insulation.

When all necessary materials will be laid in the frame of the partition, and a cable will be laid, if this is required by the wiring diagram, you can proceed with the installation of sheets. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws for drywall.

Finishing work

After installing drywall with your own hands, the wall still does not look presentable. Therefore, it is necessary to preliminary training and seal all seams with putty. To prevent cracks from forming at the joints, they are glued with a sickle. To do this, along the entire length of the joint, an edge is needed so that the connection is as strong as possible.

On the serpyanka, you need to apply a layer of putty, which is smoothed with a spatula. Thus, you can do the work on finishing the walls with drywall with your own hands. And if so, then it is worth a try for everyone.

When arranging your home, it often becomes necessary to build new partitions and internal walls. It can be a full-scale redevelopment, and the desire to split an existing room into two parts or form rooms in a new building, which is made in a single space. For the construction of new internal partitions, drywall and metal profiles are used. This material it is so convenient and easy to use that it is possible to build drywall walls with your own hands without even resorting to anyone's help. However, despite the above statement, in the process of forming walls from plasterboard, there are many nuances that should be taken into account. Only in this way can a reliable and durable design be obtained as a result.

Work materials

First, let's decide what we need to build a wall of materials and what tools we have to work with.

To ensure the strength and correct configuration of the wall, the frame should be erected initially. It is made of a metal profile, which is specially designed for drywall and a number of accessories for its installation.

Basically, a profile of two main sizes is used:

D - to form a plane on which drywall (smaller) will be fixed;
W - to build a common wall frame (larger).

In addition, for each size there are profile options such as support (C) and guide (U). The guide variant is a simpler version of the U-shaped profile with smooth walls; the supporting profile is inserted into it with the butt end. The support profile, in addition to the U-shape, has a special ribbing made by pressing to acquire greater bending rigidity.

As a result:

CD - size 60 * 27 mm, the main load-bearing element of the frame;
UD - size 28 * 27 mm guide for fixing the CD profile;
CW - size 50*50, 50*75, 50*100 mm rack profile for forming a wall frame;
UW - size 50*40, 75*40, 100*40 mm guide for CW profile.
In addition, there is the UA profile, which is a variant of the CW profile with a thicker wall and reinforced.

To build a simple partition with a width of 50, 75, 100 mm, only CW and UW profiles are used. For wider walls with laying of communications, the CD and UD profiles are used, while two parallel guides are mounted on each side of the wall at the required distance.

To fix the profile in the frame, you need a straight hanger and a universal connector (crab). You can do without the latter. The elements will be twisted with flea screws with a “drill” tip and self-tapping screws for fastening drywall to metal with a countersunk head and a piercing tip (3.5X35 mm). In the course of describing the technology of erecting a drywall wall, it will become clear how many self-tapping screws of each type are needed. To fix the entire frame to the main walls, you will need plastic dowels with impact screws.

Drywall sheets for building a wall are selected with a thickness of 12.5 mm, always with a wide chamfer on the sides. If the wall is formed in the kitchen or in the bathroom, then a moisture-resistant GKL is selected. You can distinguish them by color, because the moisture-resistant sheet is green, the usual one is gray.

As a result, you will need to build a wall:

drywall, CD, UD, CW, UW profile, wooden beam or AU profile, self-tapping screws, dowels, sealing tape, mineral wool, metal corner.

If you do not fully understand the specifics of profile types, read about their designations and differences.

Tools

You will need the following set of tools and measuring instruments:

roulette;
level (80cm, 120cm), rule;
plumb;
fishing line, rope;
screwdriver or drill with reverse;
perforator;
metal scissors;
construction knife;
grater for drywall.

The beginning of the formation of the frame of the plasterboard wall

So, with the assignment of profiles and the choice of tool completed, you can start planning and placing the future wall. The floor and adjacent walls to which the new wall will be attached must be at the stage immediately before finishing, that is, the floor is flat with a screed, the walls are plastered. For example, consider the formation of a wall from a UW, CW profile. On the floor we make markings for the placement of the future wall. The following points are taken into account:

Almost nowhere you will find perfectly right angles between the walls in the rooms. This is especially true for old buildings. The distance between them at different ends may differ by several centimeters. When marking a new drywall wall, this should be taken into account and tied not to one wall, but to both, which run in parallel. Distances are averaged. So you can avoid the visual curvature of the resulting room.
If, in addition to erecting a wall, all walls are plastered with plasterboard, then the frame is first displayed, or at least the markings of the sheathing so as to create the most right angles, and after that you can only start building the wall.
Outlining the first line of the wall location, it is taken into account that the guide profile will be equal to it, and not the resulting wall. To this mark will be added the thickness of the plasterboard, a layer of putty and finish.

Having decided on the first line on the floor, you can transfer it to the ceiling and walls. For this, a plumb line is used. If it is possible to use a laser level, then this will greatly simplify the task.

Important:All profiles that are attached directly to the floor, ceiling and existing walls are mounted using a sealing tape between it and the supporting surface. The UW profile guides are fixed to the floor and ceiling first. They are fixed with dowels and impact screws every half a meter and along the edges.

CW-profile support posts are attached along the edges of the rails. Racks are also installed in places where a door or window opening will be formed, which are necessary during the construction interior wall from drywall. Profiles are best fixed first on the bottom rail. Then it is threaded into the upper guide and installed strictly vertically in level. Only after that it is fixed on the upper guide. When arranging these profiles, the margin for sheathing with plasterboard strips over the profile is taken into account. The profiles are installed with the front side inside the opening. The racks are fixed to the rails using self-tapping flea screws.

The structure of the plasterboard partition.

Support profiles along the perimeter of door and window openings must be reinforced with wooden bars, which are inserted inside the profile and fixed with self-tapping screws. The bar is selected according to the width of the profile. If the AU profile is used, then you can do without bars.

The next step is the installation of vertical support profiles CW along the entire length of the frame. The first profile from the adjacent wall is installed at a distance of 550 mm, all subsequent ones are strictly at a distance of 600 mm from each other, measuring the distance from the middle of each profile. Be sure to check the vertical installation of profiles.

In order to designate the top of the doorway and the horizontal edges of the window openings, the same UW guide profile is used. A piece of profile is cut off 30 cm larger than the width of the opening. On the front side, on the bend of the side bends of the profile, marks are placed at a distance of 15 cm from each edge. The distance between the marks is equal to the width of the opening. The sidewalls of the profile are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, starting from the side of the edge of the profile to the marked mark and to the base of the profile. After that, the edges of the profile are bent, and a U-shaped design is obtained.

The resulting workpiece is put on with bent edges on the racks on the sides of the opening and rises to the required height. It is fixed with self-tapping screws, with which the edges of the profile are screwed to the racks. The obtained oblique ears are also screwed, which were formed on the main horizontal part of the workpiece. In the same way, the perimeter and window openings are formed.

This completes the formation of the frame. You can proceed to the process of fixing drywall sheets. Sheet sizes are standardized: 1200x2000 mm, 1200x2500 or 1200x3000 mm. In most cases, the ceilings in residential areas are higher and are at least 2.75 m, so one sheet in height may not be enough. It is necessary to add small strips of drywall.

The first sheet, which will be installed close to the edge, most often to the adjacent wall, must be removed from the side chamfer. To do this, a strip 50 mm wide is cut along its entire length on one side.

The result of the work

How to cut drywall?

For this, a regular construction knife with replaceable blades is used. The sheet must be placed on a flat, solid surface. The cut line is marked with a pencil and the top layer of cardboard is cut with a knife. After that, the sheet is shifted along the notch line to the edge of the support and gently breaks. Returning the sheet to its original position, it unfolds on edge and bends. On the second side, the cardboard is also cut, but not through. Turning the sheet over and shifting it to the edge of the support, you can finally chop it off.

To ensure a gap that can be subsequently repaired with putty, a bevel-bevel is formed on the cut edge of the sheet with a slope of 22.5 degrees or close to it. A special drywall planer is used for this. Also, a chamfer is made on that edge of the sheet, which will adjoin the GKL strip located above or below the sheet.

Fixing drywall sheets

The sheet should be fixed to the metal frame using self-tapping screws 3.5x35 mm. First of all, the edges of the sheet are fixed, and then along the edges and along the midline. For this, there is a special marking marking the position of the screws every 250 mm. The distance between the screws can vary from 10 to 25 cm, but no more. The self-tapping screws are screwed in so that the caps go a little deeper into the GKL and do not stick out above the wall level.

Important: Sheets are fixed at a distance of 10-15 mm from the floor. This is necessary to ensure the integrity of the structure during operation.

Having fixed the first sheet, the remaining distance to the ceiling is measured and the corresponding piece of plasterboard is cut off. It also forms a chamfer on the sides where it will dock to the bottom or top sheet and to the ceiling.

Subsequent sheets are installed entirely without chamfering and in a checkerboard pattern. That is, after the first row, a whole sheet of drywall is installed under the ceiling, and the missing part is below. Thus, one side of the wall is sheathed.

Laying wiring and installing sockets, switches

Before sheathing the second side, you can, if necessary, lay wires. To pass through the rack profiles, holes of 35 mm in size are made in them, strictly in the middle of the profile at the required height. It is desirable that the edges of the hole be concave to one side and bent so as not to damage the wires later. The wires are mounted in accordance with the requirements in a corrugated pipe.

Soundproofing plasterboard walls

For this, mineral wool is used. This will make the drywall wall not so transparent to sound, because without soundproofing, all the noise from one room will be heard in another. It is easier to use a rolled version of this material with a width of 600 or 1200 mm. The second option is cut in half lengthwise. Cotton wool is laid tightly between rack-mount profiles without gaps. There is no need to additionally fix it. For reliability, you can form horizontal jumpers from wooden beam along the width of the wall, on which mineral wool of a shorter length than the height of the ceilings will rest. This method is suitable for places where there is a risk of moisture getting inside the wall. However, sufficient ventilation of the interior must also be ensured.

Completion of the plasterboard wall

After that, you can sheathe the second side of the wall. After the second side of the wall is sheathed, you can start filling all the end surfaces.

Between the sheets of drywall there is a distance of 100 mm formed by chamfers, which is somewhat recessed. The joints are glued with a sickle mounting mesh and compared with the general level of the wall with a starting putty. Finishing putty compares all installation sites of self-tapping screws or the entire surface, especially if the wall is subsequently painted or pasted over with thin wallpaper. With the help of abrasive meshes and a grater, the putty layer is finally compared. After that, the wall is ready for cladding with any suitable material.