How to lay linoleum correctly: methods and step-by-step technology for laying linoleum with your own hands. Do-it-yourself linoleum laying, step-by-step instructions How to properly lay linoleum in an apartment

When planning repairs and deciding which flooring to give preference to, many opt for linoleum. Popular love for this material is explained, first of all, by its practicality. The simplicity of appearance should not be misleading: such a coating is resistant to mechanical damage and moisture, which is especially important for the kitchen, hallway and utility rooms.

Peculiarities

Linoleum is not only affordable, but also easy to install. The fact that it is not necessary to be an extra-class master to lay this material, but only minimal skills and understanding of flooring technology is required, is a kind of motivation. This characteristic is especially relevant, given the current price tag for the services of professionals. Let's study this issue in more detail and find out all the subtleties of installation.

Modern linoleum is strikingly different from the coating of the times of the USSR, not only in performance, but also decorative qualities. Depending on the material that goes to the manufacture of the canvas, the final product acquires certain useful properties.

Manufacturers use:

natural materials. Preferring linseed oil, powdered limestone, softwood resin, wood flour in combination with natural dyes. Buying natural linoleum, which is decorative, environmentally friendly and durable, is not a cheap pleasure.
PVC (polyvinyl chloride). In this case, the base can be foam or fabric with heat-insulating or sound-insulating properties. The cover is also baseless.

Alkyd/glyphthalic modified resins in combination with organic/inorganic fillers. Alkyd (glyphthalic) linoleum with a fabric base is characterized by high heat and sound insulation qualities.
Nitrocellulose. Coloxyl coating does not have a base, it has good elasticity, resistance to a humid environment. The disadvantage of such products is low fire safety.
Rubber. The high properties of elasticity and water resistance of the Relin coating are due to the combined composition: synthetic rubber, recycled rubber and bitumen as a binder component of the lower layers.

Pros and cons

Consider in detail the arguments in favor of the acquisition of linoleum:

Hygiene. It is immune to dust, is of no interest to pathogens, and has dust repellency.
Diversity color solutions and invoices. A large assortment expands the possibilities for decorating rooms for any purpose and style.
Easy installation. Self-laying linoleum - a procedure available to anyone who knows how to handle the simplest household tool.
Hassle-free service. To keep the floor finished with linoleum, the usual washing with water is enough.

It is typical for new models to have an anti-slip or bacteriostatic coating, which only bring benefits.

There are also several disadvantages:

Contact with open fire and chemicals is contraindicated for this material, exposure to low temperatures and direct sunlight is also undesirable.
High plasticity is another negative characteristic of linoleum. Regardless of the type, flexible material always takes the form of the surface on which it is laid, so the existing base will definitely need high-quality preparation. Otherwise, any unevenness will be noticeable, which will affect appearance linoleum and will nullify the efforts spent.

How to prepare?

The preparatory work implies three key points.

Creation optimal conditions in the room, which includes the removal of furniture and putting things in order. According to SNIP, the value of the optimal temperature in the room where the material will be stored, before laying, should be from 15 ° C. You can not ignore the humidity of the subfloors. If they are concrete, then the maximum is 5%, if wooden or chipboard, then - 10%. The norm of the humidity regime of the air is from 60%.

Surface preparation. First, the skirting boards and fittings are dismantled - connecting elements, plugs, corners. The floor must be cleaned of debris, crumbs, grease stains. The better the base is prepared, the longer the linoleum will last. A flat surface under it serves as a guarantee that the material will not be stretched, deformed and wiped. To understand whether it is necessary to dismantle the existing coating, or whether it is possible to lay a new linoleum on the old one, you need to evaluate the existing foundation. Most masters who have been repairing for more than a year advise not to neglect the removal of the previous layer.

There are several serious arguments on the side of dismantling the old coating:

Laying on a base cleaned of dust, dirt, mold and fungus is the key to creating a healthy microclimate in the apartment.
Leveled surface promotes even load distribution, which eliminates damage inside material.
A clean base provides better adhesion of linoleum to the floor than in the case of laying on the old coating.

Coating preparation

An important part of preparing linoleum for laying is acclimatization in the room where you plan to lay it. The roll is given a vertical position and left in this form. If you yourself have to do the laying in the winter, then you will need to place the roll in the room in advance, letting it rest in a folded form for half a day.

At low temperatures, the brittleness of the material increases. It is important that the linoleum warms up naturally, and room temperature is suitable for this.

24 hours before laying, the roll is rolled out and cut, leaving the panels to straighten out to prevent the formation of waves. When cutting canvases, leave a margin of 10 cm, taking into account bends on the walls, placement in doorways, niches and under batteries. After cutting, the linoleum must be given time to rest, leveling under its own weight. Alignment will proceed much more efficiently if large canvases are pressed down with small ones.

How to choose materials

Decide on the type of linoleum. The floor covering can be homogeneous (baseless) and heterogeneous, where a special lining is provided - felt or polyethylene. If the surface is flat, the best option considered first. When the floors have small irregularities, then products of the second type are preferable. Linoleum with a felt backing can only be used in a dry room.

Roll coating is wear-resistant, so there are 3 types of material:

Household type. The scope of application of models with a low wear resistance class is limited to residential premises.
semi-commercial type. Coatings with an average wear resistance class are used in places of medium traffic. It can be small office space,
commercial type. The high class of wear resistance allows it to be used in high traffic areas.

The choice of thickness of sheet material in the case of laying on fiberboard depends on the height of the drops and the number of defects. If the surface is very uneven, then in order to hide all the flaws, a thicker material is selected.

When choosing skirting boards for linoleum according to the material, the design of the coating is crucial:

For linoleum with parquet imitation, MDF / PFC skirting boards with a wood grain texture are considered the best framing;
For linoleum with other patterns, polyurethane / PVC fillets are most often used as the finishing touch.

When choosing skirting boards for linoleum by color, the easiest way is to heed the advice of professional designers who suggest starting from a color scheme:

Floor covering. This is a classic. Skirting boards should be a couple of shades darker.
Platbands. The main thing is that the thickness and color of the frame should match the thickness and shade of the platbands.
Background finishes. The dimensions of the room are important here. Skirting boards in a small room with low ceiling painted to match the walls, as with a contrasting frame it will visually decrease in size.
Furnishings. The basis is the color of the largest piece of furniture that forms the center of the interior.
Ram on the windows. This solution looks unusual, especially with non-traditional colors. window frames- gray, beige, black, olive.
Accent decor. Suitable for those who love non-standard solutions.

Another option is to choose a color arbitrarily, without tying it to anything. But the color palette will then be limited to neutral shades of white and cream.

Tools

During the installation process, you will need:

Universal mounting knife for cutting and a set of replacement blades.
Construction ruler-level, a short meter ruler and a long one from 2 m.
Connelure plinth for linoleum plant on the wall.
Spatula with teeth.
Roller of large size.
Roulette and pencil.

With special scissors, which come with replaceable blades, it is much easier to cut / trim the material. The markings are made with a trapezoidal blade, and the final trimming is done with a hook-shaped one.

From Supplies depending on the chosen installation method, prepare:

putty mixture;
clamping bars;
Double-sided tape;
composition for welding seam joints;
emulsion glue-mastic;
trailing edge;
screws and nails.

How to calculate the material?

Linoleum is sold in rolls of various widths up to 5 m with a half-meter step. During installation, laying the material, you need to retreat from the walls by 1-2 cm. Thanks to the gaps, the coating will not rest against the walls, starting to stray and forming ugly waves. In order not to make a mistake when calculating the material, it is important to carefully measure the room.

Action algorithm:

Measure the width of the room. For accuracy, the indicators are taken at the extreme points and in the center. With uneven walls, the greatest measurement accuracy will be provided by checking the indicators in four or five places.
Measure the length of the room. The work is carried out according to the above scheme. It is important to measure at least three points, which allows you to detect flaws or deviations.
Rooms with non-standard geometry are measured differently. The initial data are the length / width of the room at the widest point. When choosing linoleum, determine on the spot which option is more suitable and how you will place it.
Accounting doorways. Often, laying involves inserting material into openings or joining it with flooring in an adjacent room. In this case, the margin is 70% of the wall thickness. When planning an installation inside the opening using thresholds, proceed from the calculation that the door frame will hide the joints.
Accounting for niches under heating radiators. The depth of the batteries is measured on each side, and then the total width of the coating is added to the resulting value.
To the obtained indicators of length / width, plus 7 cm, which will be a margin that allows you to accurately fit the linoleum under the base.

The presence of a small overlap is your insurance against unpleasant surprises when installing linoleum.

Laying rules for different coverage

Preparation of different surfaces has its own specifics.

Consider the requirements for any base for future coverage:

It should be dry, smooth, firm. Use a level to check if the surface is even.
Permissible gap size - 0.3 cm.
Make sure that there are no bumps, sagging, cracks, swelling, protruding screws, nail heads.

Laying on an uneven subfloor accelerates the wear of the coating, reducing its service life. The initial state of the foundation determines the amount of preparation work.

If you are going to lay linoleum on a wooden floor, then you need to inspect the floors for fallen fragments, distortions, drops, and all kinds of deformations.

Disadvantages are eliminated in several ways:

You can putty problem areas, and then grind the surface with a grinder or planer.
Cover with fiberboard/chipboard/plywood. Flooring on hardboard is allowed.
Reanimate damaged parquet by replacing missing planks and scraping it.
Use self-leveling floors with leveling ability.

Linoleum is often laid on top of concrete. In almost every case, such a surface needs to be leveled.

Suitable for this:

Cover with fiberboard / chipboard.
Fill with self-levelling compound if minor surface differences are to be eliminated.
Make a concrete screed.

A new screed dries within a month, and self-levelling compounds dry in a few days, which saves time. Make sure you choose the right linoleum, as not all varieties can be laid on a concrete floor.

For such bases, the following flooring models are suitable:

Materials on a heat and sound insulating substrate.
The main type of alkyd linoleum having a non-woven / woven backing.
Some types of coating that exclude the possibility of combining directly with the draft version of the concrete base, so you will need to create a dry layer using sheet material.

Consider a few more simple types of bases and the nuances of laying linoleum on them:

On carpet. You need to get rid of the obsolete coating in the room, clean the surface and level the problem areas.
On linoleum. Not everyone wants to do extra work, spend time and effort on dismantling the old coating, so they limit themselves to laying new linoleum on top of the existing one. Such a base needs only careful degreasing.
On the tile. Most often this is done in the kitchen or in the hallway. Loose tiles are re-pasted. Knauf leveling compound and Knauf floating floors are equally suitable for leveling the surface.

How to lay correctly: step by step instructions

Linoleum can be laid in 3 ways:

Free flooring. This method eliminates the fixation of the coating to the base, which is suitable for rooms up to 20 sq m and light floor use.
With adhesive tape. It is advisable to use this option when the area of the room exceeds 20 square meters and frequent movement of heavy objects is possible.
With the help of emulsion mastic glue. This method must be referred to when it is planned to actively operate the coating in places with high traffic.

How to cut?

The first stage of do-it-yourself flooring technology involves marking linoleum and cutting it out when the coating has acclimatized in the room, rested and smoothed out, getting rid of the specific “new” smell.

There are two options:

Rolling the material on the base and cutting off the excess on the spot, which is faster than the second method, but the cutting accuracy here is doubtful if there is no skill.
Carrying out all measurements with subsequent transfer to the surface to be cut. In this case, damage to the canvas is possible due to an error in size.

When laying involves the use of a solid canvas, then after 2 days it will be possible to start installing skirting boards, that is, in fact, to complete the work.

When you have to lay several canvases, it is important to master the wisdom of joining linoleum:

When working with plain canvases, place them in the direction of the light to achieve a "solid" coating.
Place patterned linoleum at outer wall making sure that the pattern of the canvases matches exactly.
The connection of individual fragments implies their docking with each other along the factory edges.
To make cutting around utility lines easier, wait until the material has fully acclimatized and acquired the desired flexibility. At the points of the cut, the coating is alternately bent at the desired angles, gently forming a contour.

Ready templates should be allowed to rest for several days. The canvases are laid out on the floor, following the cutting pattern, and fixed with massive objects.

Laying process

Fixation methods

First, the floor and the back of the coating are primed. After a couple of days, when the primed surfaces have dried, we proceed to the laying itself.

Work order:

Apply glue-mastic on that part of the base, which is closed with linoleum and on the canvas itself.
Transfer it to the treated area, then press it well.
Smooth out the coating with a roller, removing any remaining air.

When applying mastic, it is important to ensure that the layer is not excessive, as a result of which the linoleum can go bumpy.

You can also lay the coating dry. Sequencing:

First you need to glue the perimeter of the base, the joints and arbitrarily the entire coating with adhesive tape, leaving protective layer tape intact.
Spread the canvas, cut it out, let it rest.
Trim the seam allowances.
Glue the first panel parallel to the wall.
Raise the panel to the wall along which it was glued, after which, the attached tapes are alternately released from the protective layer, fixing the linoleum throughout the area.

The rest of the canvases are glued in the same way, then carefully smoothed out, trying not to miss a single bump, otherwise all the work will go down the drain.

You can make flooring with glue. Procedure:

Unscrew the canvas from one edge, evenly distribute the glue over the base and leave the banner on the floor. Roll back the opposite side of the canvas to the border of the mastic coverage area and spread the glue over the base of the other part.
The roller is ideal for rapid leveling of the surface big size. The tool begins to wield from the middle, gradually moving towards the edges and getting rid of excess air.
Smooth the canvas next to the walls using a spatula.
With a metal ruler, the canvas is successively pressed closer to the wall, and then the excess is cut off with a knife, having previously tucked a hook-shaped blade into it.
The second canvas is fixed to the glue in the same way, and it will need to be glued overlapping on the surface of the first, going three centimeters.

It will take three days for the coating to become durable. Docking points can be processed after a day from the moment of laying.

High-quality natural linoleum can be laid using special glue with specific properties. For this reason, increased requirements are imposed on the base. The surface must be dry, clean and absorbent, and self-levelling compounds help to achieve these conditions. The roll is acclimatized and necessarily rewound so that the front side is inside: this will reduce the longitudinal shrinkage due to the action of the water-dispersed adhesive composition.

Work order:

Cut the sheets according to the arrows on the reverse side of the canvas.
Open and stir the glue. Distribute it on the prepared base.
This type of linoleum is glued along the strip, and rolled with a steel roller, which weighs about 10 kg, which allows you to evenly distribute the glue, removing air from below.
After rolling the joints, the glue is allowed to dry completely, and then the joints are lined with a combi-scriber for the welding cord.
After cleaning the seams with a vacuum cleaner, you can start soldering, preheating them with a hair dryer to 350 ° C. Finishing pruning is carried out when the seams are completely dry.

This article will tell you how to lay linoleum. This is not a technologically complex process, but nevertheless, it must be carried out in accordance with certain requirements, which will ensure high quality, operational reliability and durability of the result.

General preparatory stage

The first thing that guarantees a long life of the coating is a well leveled, smooth and thoroughly cleaned dry substrate. The presence of any foreign objects, bumps, cracks is not allowed. The leveling of the base is carried out by means of chipboard (for wooden floors) or self-leveling screed (with a concrete subbase).

Suppose you are going to lay, and have already purchased it in the store.

The preparation of linoleum consists in its adaptation to the microclimate of the room. Therefore, at least a day before the start of work, it is brought into the room. Work is carried out at a temperature indoor air+18°С and above, as well as relative humidity not more than 40-75%. The base temperature should not be lower than +15°C, and the permissible threshold of its relative humidity should not exceed 3%. After acclimatization of the material, they proceed to the cutting itself, while providing a 10-centimeter margin along the contour of the room and 6-8 cm at the joints of the canvases. Measurements are made according to the largest width and length of the room. For the final alignment of the linoleum, the resulting pieces are spread out and left for another day. Linoleum should lie down:

At this stage, you can prepare the necessary tools:

metal ruler;
brush and vacuum cleaner;
massive scissors;
spatulas;
building level;
sharp knife complete with spare blades;
roller;
adhesive or double-sided adhesive tape;
joint glue.

Foundation preparation

Depending on the initial state of the base, the type of old coating, even before laying linoleum, a number of technological operations are performed. So, in the presence of a wooden floor:

provide check of fastening of floorboards;
make sure that the nail heads are “drowned” flush with the floor plane;
fasten fiberboard (plywood);
putty joints between sheets.

When tiled, they provide sealing and alignment of seams cement mortar. If there is a place old linoleum, then it must be completely removed, and the base leveled. The concrete surface is leveled with or ready mixes are used.

Linoleum preparation

In addition to adapting the material to existing climatic conditions premises and its preliminary alignment, it is important to correctly orient the canvas relative to the dimensions of the room. Linoleum is laid so that the pattern applied to it is parallel to the long side of the room. With a large width of the room, when the dimensions of one strip of linoleum are not enough, they monitor the coincidence of the pattern of adjacent strips. In this case, the pile of the base of the material should be oriented in one direction.

To ensure the maximum density of joints in the preparation of linoleum, adjacent canvases are overlapped (by 6-8 cm).

Cutting is done as follows:

a ruler is placed on top of the overlap;
cut through two layers of material at the same time.

To avoid an error that will no longer be corrected, cutting is performed in small sections. At the same time, the correctness of the cut is constantly monitored. In the corners, linoleum is cut diagonally, thereby ensuring a snug fit of the material. The overlap on the wall along its entire length is left at 8-10 cm.

Linoleum laying

Depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, the intensity of movement, one of the methods of linoleum flooring is chosen. It could be:

free styling;
flooring with double-sided adhesive tape;
adhesive fixation.

Free laying is applicable for small rooms (up to 20m2). However, this type of flooring is less preferred in terms of its reliability. It is more expedient to provide for additional fastening with adhesive tape. The main attention is paid to the places at the entrance and the joints of adjacent canvases. However, this method can only be used for non-intensive use of the floor.

The most reliable and durable option is gluing linoleum over the entire area. To do this, perform a series of sequential operations:

half turn away the dry-laid canvas;
apply adhesive;

return linoleum to its original position, while controlling the correct installation;

gently using a roller, the fabric is smoothed in the direction from the middle to the edges.

For convenience, small areas should be coated with glue.

For a snug fit of linoleum to the wall, it is consistently pressed around the entire perimeter with a spatula. Excess material is removed with a knife, cutting off the material at the base of the walls:

Then carry out similar actions with the other half of the piece. After that, they proceed to a through cut along the junction of the strips, remove the trimmings, unscrew the edges of the resulting joint, apply an adhesive composition along the seam and, pressing, lay the coating in place. The resulting joint will be almost invisible.

Sealing joints between adjacent strips of linoleum

After at least 12 hours, the joints between adjacent strips are sealed, for which a special composition is used for soldering the seams.

First, the junction of the two strips is wiped from dust:

Then, masking tape is pulled from both sides along the joint:

After that, they pass along the seam of pieces of linoleum with a special colorless composition, “cold welding”:

Full operation of the coating is possible only after a technological break specified by the manufacturer.

That's all. Today we looked at how to lay linoleum in our apartment.

Installation of any floor covering is the final and very important step in finishing the floor. The durability of the coating and its aesthetic appearance depend on the correct flooring. Proper flooring is not only compliance general instruction, but also taking into account all the nuances regarding a particular type of flooring, whether it be laminate or linoleum. Therefore, it would be logical to note that you need to start with a choice.

Once the choice has been made, the materials have been purchased, it is important to follow both general and particular recommendations for laying a particular type of linoleum on a particular floor (concrete, wood, plywood). Let's consider everything in more detail.

The right conditions

It is very important to observe the temperature regime. The temperature in the room should not be lower than +15 degrees, and the temperature of the base, regardless of whether it is a concrete floor or a wooden one, should vary from +15 to +25 degrees.

Before laying linoleum on the floor on your own, you need to give the material time for the so-called acclimatization in the expanded and straightened form. Time for acclimatization - not less than a day, and in winter it increases up to 3 days.

Important Details

Before you start cutting linoleum, it is better to draw up a plan of the room in order to determine the most convenient and correct option cutting. This will achieve the most rational use of the material, so that the residual pieces are as small as possible, or they are larger.
Depending on the type of base floor and its condition, it is necessary to decide whether a substrate for linoleum will be needed, and if so, which one.
Linoleum type: multi-layer or single-layer, natural (marmoleum) or PVC. Each type has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.
Canvas sizes. If you are looking for how to properly lay linoleum on the floor with your own hands, then it is very important to choose the right laying technology, which, in turn, depends on whether the canvas is solid, or several pieces of linoleum will be installed.
Glue type. The adhesive composition is also very important to choose not only the type of linoleum coating, but also the base material.

Foundation preparation

The key to how to lay linoleum in a room or in the kitchen yourself correctly is the careful preparation of the base, that is, the base floor.

For the correct laying of linoleum coatings, the following types of bases are acceptable:

covering from rigid sheet materials such as plywood, chipboard, MDF, etc.;
cement floor screed;
monolithic floor slab or concrete floor without defects;
a wooden floor is less preferable, as the joints between the boards will show through over time.

A guarantee of the reliability of the laid linoleum coating is the careful preparation of the base. Linoleum material manufacturers strongly recommend that the base floor be:

monolithic, that is, it is necessary to carefully eliminate and repair all joints, seams, cracks, potholes and chips;
smooth, which is achieved by using a screed, repair mortar or using self-leveling flooring technology (according to SNiP 2.03.13-88, for every 2 meters of floor there should be a difference of no more than 2 mm);
durable (150-300 kg per square centimeter);
dry (the percentage of moisture for a combined screed should be no more than 8%, for cement - no more than 4%, for anhydrite - no more than 0.5%), so special waterproofing primers can be used if necessary;
clean, dust-free.

Is it possible to lay linoleum on linoleum?

Theoretically, of course, it is possible, but the flooring cannot be called high-quality and even. Any professional will recommend removing the old linoleum, and any other coating: laminate, parquet, carpet. Ideally, even remove the paintwork of the floor, if any.

Therefore, an unequivocal answer to the question: “Can I lay linoleum on old linoleum?” - no, if quality, strength and durability are in the first place for you!

After the old coating is removed and the surface is dust-free, it is necessary to treat the base with special compounds and apply a primer.

Processing the base with special compounds

Before laying linoleum on the floor, you need to treat the base with special compositions, which are selected depending on the type of base. Waterproofing compositions, flame retardants, antiseptics - each of them performs its task.

Primer application

What is it for?

The primer, being absorbed into the surface of the base, strengthens its upper layers and prevents the penetration of liquid.
The primer coating increases the adhesion of the substrate. Linoleum, when laid on the base floor, adjoins and sticks better.
The soil does not allow dust to accumulate, therefore, when applying glue, it will lie evenly over the entire surface of the floor, and will not roll into lumps.

So, the coating is prepared, and the crucial moment comes - laying linoleum.

How to lay linoleum yourself: instructions

Fitting linoleum flooring

If the room is small and a single piece of linoleum is enough, then fitting the coating is quite simple - you need to carefully cover the floor surface with linoleum so that the material wraps a little on the walls.

It is important to carefully level the linoleum, removing air from under it, removing all bumps and bends.
Further along the edges of the linoleum is cut off.

ATTENTION! When trimming around the perimeter, it is important to leave compensation gaps 0.5-1 cm wide.

The next stage is the design of external and internal corners. The cutting of corners is carried out according to the following technology: the coating is gently pressed to the junction point connecting the vertical surface and the floor, then a cross-shaped incision is made on the canvas 3-5 mm wide, the edges of the coating are parted to the sides. You need to work very carefully so as not to cut off the excess.
After the excess is cut off, you need to fix the edges with double-sided tape or put on glue, or fix the linoleum in a pre-selected method.

Bonding linoleum sheets

How to lay linoleum yourself if it consists of several parts?

The design of the joints with a special decorative strip, which can be matched to the color of linoleum.
Docking pieces of linoleum with glue.

The latter method is more professional, but also more time consuming. Let's consider it in more detail. First you need to clearly combine the pieces of linoleum according to the pattern.

ATTENTION! If linoleum does not have a clearly defined pattern (granite chips, specks, sand), then it is recommended to lay its canvases in reverse, that is, in opposite directions. If the pattern is clearly expressed, with a clear repetition of rapport, then the laying of pieces of linoleum should be carried out strictly in one direction with a clear alignment of the pattern.

After the pattern is combined, under the pieces of linoleum (under the intended cut line), double-sided tape or adhesive tape is attached, which is necessary to prevent the edges and parts of the linoleum from shifting. Next, the linoleum sheets are superimposed one on top of the other with a small gap-overlapping 4-5 mm wide.

Using a metal ruler and a very sharp blade, an incision is made along the entire length of the joint strictly in the middle of the overlap. Next, a special glue is introduced into the seam, and the edges of the seam are pressed tightly against the base floor.

Fixing linoleum to the floor

As mentioned above, fixing linoleum to the floor when it correct styling can be done in several ways.

Without gluing. This is ideal for small rooms or kitchens, for which a solid sheet of linoleum is enough. In this case, the laid linoleum is fixed along the edges with double-sided tape, staples or adhesive tape, and then pressed with decorative skirting boards around the perimeter.
Glue fixing. It is important to understand here that if you are going to change the floor covering in a few years, then it will be unrealistically difficult and very laborious to dismantle linoleum from a floor completely covered with glue. Therefore, we recommend applying adhesive along the perimeter of the web, crosswise and dotted on the inner surface.

In any of the above methods, linoleum must be “rolled” with a special roller, pressing the canvas to the floor. So you will ensure a stronger bonding of the canvas with the base.

How to lay linoleum on a wooden floor?

A wooden floor, especially from floorboards, is a rather capricious base for linoleum, which must be carefully prepared.

Attention! It is important to repair a wooden floor before laying a linoleum coating on it: eliminate creaking, replace old boards with new ones if necessary, apply a bioprotective composition to the entire surface.

Before laying linoleum with your own hands on a wooden floor, you must:
carefully remove the paintwork of the floor;
dismantle skirting boards;
repair, putty cracks and chips, install patches on gaps in wooden floor;
“plant” the floor on self-tapping screws, screwing them to a depth of 5-7 mm in order to level the surface, and then walk with a grinder;
dust the surface of the wooden floor with a vacuum cleaner, wash the floor thoroughly and let it dry.

What to lay under linoleum on a wooden floor?

Attention! Particular attention should be paid to leveling the surface of the base floor so that the linoleum floor lays flat. If the wood floor is old enough, then great way leveling is a plywood underlay.

Before laying linoleum on plywood, plywood sheets should be mounted on the floor with an offset relative to each other (ideally, in a checkerboard pattern). There should be no gaps between the sheets (they must be carefully sealed), and at the joints with the walls it is better to leave gaps 1 cm wide.

Plywood also needs to be treated with special compounds and a primer, and before that, an abrasive walk (if the surface of the plywood is smooth enough) to ensure a more reliable adhesion of plywood and linoleum.

How to lay linoleum on a concrete floor?

Laying linoleum with your own hands on a concrete floor is also not difficult, but rather troublesome and time-consuming if the concrete coating is old, crooked, and requires restoration and repair. As mentioned above, if the surface difference is large enough, then it is necessary to level the surface.

For these purposes, a concrete-cement screed using a reinforcing mesh is suitable. The leveled surface must be allowed to dry thoroughly. Further, all floor defects are eliminated, and the base surface itself is prepared for the installation of linoleum according to the standard rules indicated above. The procedure for how to properly lay linoleum on a concrete floor, in fact, does not differ from the standard one. The most important thing is to carefully prepare the surface.

Necessary tools and materials

In order to lay linoleum on the floor yourself correctly, in addition to the linoleum sheet, you may need:

various compositions for repairing the base, leveling, eliminating defects;
level, steel rail, metal ruler;
marker, tape measure, construction knife for cutting;
construction vacuum cleaner(powerful home will do);
a short-haired roller and a notched trowel suitable for applying the adhesive;
rubber roller or lapping board for smoothing linoleum to the floor;
double-sided tape or masking tape;
soil composition;
adhesive composition for attaching linoleum to the floor;
glue "cold welding" for gluing seams;
skirting boards and accessories, decorative strips, thresholds.

VIDEO: how to lay linoleum with your own hands

By the way, you can order and buy linoleum on the pages of the construction portal site, where only the most relevant offers from reliable suppliers and manufacturers of linoleum materials are presented.

Photo and video materials found on the Internet and presented for informational purposes.

How to lay linoleum with your own hands? In fact, everything will turn out very easily if you follow certain instructions and advice from professionals. Laying linoleum is much easier than, for example, laminate. And so, you bought linoleum, it lies in anticipation of its hour. And the whole family looks at you thoughtfully with the same question, how to lay linoleum? Can call a professional uncle to quickly and efficiently? Stop thinking, you can do everything yourself, which will “please” your home budget and feel a lot of positive emotions from what you have done. The main thing is to think about everything in advance and slowly change your house beyond recognition.

Floor plan.

Linoleum is a cheap and practical material. They can transform any room or space. Today, the building materials market has a rather rich choice of styles and colors. This allows you to realize any design ideas. In addition, linoleum material is distinguished by high strength and the ability to withstand considerable mechanical stress. It remains to make out how to lay linoleum.

Preparing for laying work

The order of laying linoleum at the front door.

When carrying out work on laying linoleum, you need the following tools for marking and fitting a fragment:

ruler and tape measure;
pencil;
stationery knife;
scissors.

When you lay linoleum flooring in a large room (more than 25 squares), you should stock up additional tool. At the same time, in rooms with a smaller area, gluing is not used, since free laying is performed. It:

glue;
double sided tape;
roller;
putty knife.

The entire possible set of tools is listed, it all depends on what and how you will lay the linoleum.

Floor construction with linoleum coating on the ground.

The first step in preparing for work is to free the room. Take out large furniture and all kinds of items in the room. The space should be cleared to the maximum. If work is done in two-room apartment, then the linoleum spreads in turn. And the furniture is moved to where in this moment nothing is being repaired.

You have vacated the room, then you need to think about preparing the floor surface. And it doesn’t matter that you have covered the floor before, you need to make sure that before the final laying, the surface on which the material is laid is cleaned and leveled. It is necessary to remove the skirting boards on all walls of the room, since the flooring to be laid will adhere directly to them. If you plan to use the skirting board again, then remove it carefully so as not to break it. At the same time, you can even number the planks from the back, putting a similar number on the wall to facilitate further work. If repair work were produced for a long time, and it is not possible to remove the whole skirting boards, it is better to purchase new ones. Aesthetics will only win.

Now it is worth paying attention directly to the floor. If you have decided to overhaul, then the ideal option would be to use a self-leveling floor. This option is optimal if the base is made of concrete or cement screed. But in most cases, linoleum spreads on a board or drying parquet. And if you do not plan to clean the old flooring completely, choose one of the options for eliminating bumps:

The use of chipboard sheets.
Reinforcement of falling planks of parquet.
Using self-leveling floor technology with special leveling compounds.

Scheme of laying antistatic linoleum.

The big problem of the old floor is creaking. Therefore, when making repairs, attention should be paid to this.

The only goal pursued by all preparatory work, is to achieve a perfectly flat and clean floor surface. Protrusions, recesses, all kinds of irregularities and rubbish on the basis of the floor during the coating will certainly make themselves felt, appearing in places of the most intense wear. You now know about ways to level the surface, and you can clean it with a vacuum cleaner and wet cleaning.

When laying linoleum, it is important to observe the temperature regime, which varies from +15 to +25 ºС. At lower temperatures, the material may lose elasticity and become brittle. Pay attention to this if you are doing repairs in the winter. Even if the room is warm, let the material brought in from outside warm up. The lower the outdoor temperature, the longer the warm-up time will be, up to 12 hours. Before work, spread the roll, let it rest. This way you will avoid unwanted "waves".

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What to choose?

A small digression to the direct laying of linoleum will be advice on choosing the material: linoleum and substrate. When choosing the first one, it is necessary to make a selection commensurate with the loads that will “fall” on its lot. Also taken into account are shoes in which they will walk on linoleum material, and even air humidity. Based on this, choose the thickness of the coating. The thicker it is, the stronger it is, of course. For example, a coating with a thickness of less than 3 mm has almost minus resistance and will critically quickly deteriorate during intensive use.

Often when using linoleum, a substrate is placed under it. In most cases, these are cork substrates. When using them, the effect of easy walking on the floor is achieved. But at the same time, heavy objects will leave their unwanted marks on it. Jute or linen materials also look good as a substrate. They are pre-treated with an antifungal compound and provide fire resistance. The use of a substrate is recommended if the linoleum is without a base. In this case, insulation is required. Otherwise, substrates are not used, since they lack sufficient mechanical strength and rigidity.

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Scheme of laying conductive linoleum in rolls.

As mentioned above, the first step is to check how level the floor is, whether cracks and protrusions are removed. After wet cleaning make sure that the floor remains dry, free of grease, paint and other contaminants.

If you use a substrate, then at this stage it is necessary to spread it with maximum uniformity over the floor surface. Next, the substrate is leveled and trimmed at the corners. Remember, the use of a substrate is only necessary if the linoleum has no base.

The linoleum flooring itself starts from the wall, least of all cluttered with furniture and well visible. A roll with linoleum is rolled out with a flat side near the wall, leaving overflows of excess material on the rest of the walls. Be sure to follow the position of the picture.

If the roll is not wide enough, you have to join the strips of the coating.

The structure of household linoleum.

To do this, the strips are arranged so that one covers the other with an overlap of about 10 cm. You will have to use glue, attaching part of the strip in the joint area to the floor. Then, with the help of a knife, it is necessary to cut off the linoleum under the ruler in the place of overlap, removing the cut and gluing the edges. The junction should be as inconspicuous as possible.

When the location of the pattern is matched, you can safely start trimming the linoleum in the places of the allowance, in the corners of the room. This is important and extremely necessary so that it is possible to press the linoleum material against the walls along the perimeter with the greatest density and cut it with accuracy.

Then you, using a spatula and placing it in the kinks, press the material against the corner between the floor and the wall. And with the help of a sharp knife, remove the excess part of the coating, that is, what was left for the allowance. After you do this, the maximum gap that is allowed between the walls and the coating should be no more than 1-2 mm. Do not worry, it will not be after the final leveling of the linoleum. At this stage, it is necessary to stop work and let the linoleum rest for about 24 hours. The bigger, the better. After that, you can safely begin to mount the plinth.

Laying linoleum with your own hands is a simple task within the power of any person. Clear recommendations from a specialist, the necessary free time and a piece of your own diligence - this is the secret of an excellent result that will delight you and your entire family.

Material Importance

Laying linoleum depends on the type of material. If you approach the choice based solely on external data, during the operation of the floor covering it may turn out that it is not intended for this type of room and does not correspond to the traffic of a particular area. The raw materials have obvious differences due to the thickness, protective layer, substrate material, external characteristics. It is different in terms of service life, degree of practicality, resistance to moisture and frequent cleaning.

In addition, the type of material is also different: the premium texture is subject to class, shade and a certain pattern.

Advantages and disadvantages

The choice of flooring is based on the study of the characteristics of the material, which are made up of strong and weaknesses. This allows you to understand the degree of relevance of laying linoleum in a given room and determine its service life.

Among the positive characteristics of linoleum, the following can be noted.

Easy installation and versatility of use in different types of rooms (can be laid in the living room, kitchen, children's room, office, hallway, home library, toilet, bathroom, corridor);
Width variability, thanks to which it is possible to simplify floor cladding and perform seamless technology by laying the canvas in a single sheet;
A huge selection of colors for status materials, so that the look of the room at the end of the repair will be special, hinting at the well-being and delicate taste of the owners of the house;
Antistatic structure of the material and fire resistance, due to which it does not attract dust and is resistant to combustion;

Big term services with the proper level of protective layer (enough for 10-15 years or more);
Resistance to moisture, wear, pressing under heavy furniture;
Good soundproofing properties, which reduces the degree of noise of annoying extraneous sounds;
Underfloor heating compatibility and uniform distribution warm air throughout the room, so that you can step on the floor with bare feet;
A different price range, which allows you to put on the floor covering, taking into account your own preferences and the budget planned for the purchase.

The unique property of linoleum is its compatibility with different finishes floor coverings: it can be combined with ceramic tiles, parquet and parquet tiles, complemented with laminate, framed with porcelain stoneware. This way of installing the floor gives a lot of opportunities for design and allows you to beat the lack of space, zone the room, giving it an unobtrusive organization.

The combination provides for the use of materials of up to three varieties of different colors and textures, which is convenient, allows you to hide laying defects by means of thresholds and a decorative plinth.

Minuses

Laying linoleum is a rational investment. However, with a lot of advantages, the material has several negative nuances.

The cost per square meter of material increases with the thickness of the protective layer;
Among the assortment presented for sale, not all raw materials are natural: synthetics suit far from all buyers;
How more weight, the more difficult it is to transport the material and the greater the possibility of violating the integrity of the coating in the process of inaccurate delivery;
Depending on the quality and class, linoleum can dry out with constant temperature changes, which leads to a loss of elasticity of the material;
Laying should be carried out as accurately as possible: non-compliance with the technology can cause waves to form on the floor surface.

Not every type of linoleum is easy to work with: if you leave air under it, the coating may swell. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is greater than the maximum allowable width of the web, joints cannot be avoided.

Joints are a sore spot for laying. They are weak, exposed to moisture, therefore, to extend the service life, you need to take care of the flooring as carefully as possible: you can not fill it with water, it is important to immediately remove dirt from the surface before they become part of the pattern.

Types of linoleum

So that negative moments-surprises are not revealed in the work, and the flooring is the best, it is important to know the types of linoleum, which are determined by its structure. Linoleum is a polymer-based finishing material, which often consists of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), has a dense structure and a porous base. It can be homogeneous, consisting of a single layer, or heterogeneous, multi-layered.

The first type combines all the layers into one, so it is dyed through, erased rather slowly. The second variety allows you to clearly see the different layers by looking at the cut of linoleum from the side.

Each type is unique in its own way, allowing you to choose a worthy material option for flooring. The only thing that distinguishes them is the protective layer, which is larger in heterogeneous varieties.

In addition to PVC linoleum, companies offer other types of flooring for sale, among which the following are especially in demand.

Natural made from oxidized linseed oil, hardwood resins, wood flour, limestone, jute and color pigments of natural origin (plain linoleum with a service life of up to 40 years, excellent bactericidal properties and practical qualities);
Alkyd, which is distinguished by a woven base, the presence of alkyd resins and various pigments in the composition (it has a high level of sound and heat insulation compared to polyvinyl chloride linoleum, however, it is fragile and prone to cracking);
Rubber, which is a product of the processing of rubber waste with the addition of a top layer of new rubber (a material resistant to moisture and highly elastic).

According to the type of wear resistance and purpose, linoleum is divided into three varieties.

Domestic;
semi-commercial;
Commercial.

What is the difference?

Household flooring- a cheap class of material that wears off faster than analogues, looks simpler, different smooth surface, has no texture. Its colors are more often stylistic, in the form of ornaments, they do not differ in premium and relief.

The material is suitable for areas with low traffic, over time, erasing in the most working areas of the canvas.

semi-commerce better than household analogue, stronger, more resistant to abrasion. It looks more expensive, has more solid colors for parquet, laminate, marble and tiles. The coating is resistant to high weight loads, designed for flooring in residential buildings, studios, salons, shops.

The material can have a smooth, embossed surface, is often anti-slip, and is designed for areas with medium to high traffic.

commercial linoleum- premium grade flooring this material. Its front side practically does not differ from its semi-commercial counterpart. It is quite solid, can have anti-slip, antibacterial impregnation, often contains natural ingredients which increases its cost.

This linoleum differs in price and weight, which depends on the protective film.

The range of flooring can be complemented by different effects. In addition to slip protection and fire resistance, the canvases are treated with antistatic impregnation and are made with a 3D effect. The texture can be rough, reminiscent of the structure of wood planks.

According to the type of base, linoleum comes with a foam or felt base. This factor determines the need for a substrate. If the linoleum has insulation, the substrate is not needed: the felt will perform the function of sound and heat insulation, and at the same time hide the unevenness of the floor.

Protection

Protection is the main difference between linoleums of different classes. If the sellers in the store answer at length enough what the difference is, in fact everything is simple: household, semi-commercial and commercial linoleum have different thicknesses of the protective film located on top of the canvas (on the front side). It is she who saves the surface from losing its attractive appearance and determines the different level of weight load on the surface of the canvas. To understand the difference, you should look at the linoleum from the side.

In the household class, the film is almost invisible and is 0.1-0.2 mm;
Semi-commerce has better protection: 0.3-0.4 mm;
Commerce is more reliable: its protective layer is from 0.6 mm to 1 mm.

To choose correctly, you can focus on weight: if you take canvases of the same width, the weight of a household canvas will be the lightest, while commercial linoleum may be unbearable. Moreover, the nuance is interesting: the thicker the protective layer, the thinner the foamed base of linoleum. Sometimes, of course, there are exceptions, but more often the thickness of the commerce is minimal and reaches no more than 3 mm.

You can lay such linoleum only on a flat, almost perfect surface.

To choose best view material that is optimally easy to install, it is worth taking a closer look at semi-commerce: its characteristics are enough for the floor to be perfectly flat and the surface not to be erased even in areas with high traffic. Commercial linoleum was originally created for industrial premises. However, its high resistance to stress has been noted by many buyers, so today commerce is often the decoration of the floor of apartments and country houses. Many users like it much more than laminate, which swells in case of high humidity.

If you want to purchase a commercial grade flooring, it is better to pay attention to the option with a protection of 0.6-0.8 mm and the maximum possible thickness. So the weight load will be maximum, and floor irregularities will not stand out.

Linoleum under tiles

Tiled linoleum - an analogue of a roll variety and a kind of alternative ceramic tiles. In structure, it is no different from linoleum in its usual form. Here is the same classification, the presence of household, semi-commercial and commercial categories, the similarity of the composition of the layers and the same level of protective film thickness.

The difference lies in the appearance: linoleum tiles are fragments of the same size and shade, which are laid like ceramic flooring.

The raw materials are so similar to tiles that it can be difficult to distinguish them at first glance.

The rest is unchanged: the characteristics are similar to the roll analogue, the service life depends on the quality of installation, the durability of the coating is determined by the intensity of use of the working surface, a flat surface depends on the calibration, the seams are made at will. This type of laying allows the combination of material of different textures: tiled linoleum can be combined with an analogue of a different shade and color, complemented by tiles and, less often, laminate.

Parquet is inappropriate here: excess small details can break the nobility of the flooring, thereby adding a sense of disorder to the room.

How to calculate the required amount of material?

Today, for convenience and simplification construction works there are special calculators. They help to calculate the correct amount of raw materials, saving buyers from unnecessary expenses. However, this invention is not always necessary, because in any case it will be necessary to measure the room. In order not to be mistaken, it is important to take into account the maximum distance in length and width, checking it at several points on each of the walls.

If there is an assistant who can hold the tape measure, it is even more convenient: this way the measurement accuracy will be greater, because the edge of the metal tape will not slide and move.

All data should immediately be written down on paper, depicting a schematic drawing of the room in which the installation is carried out. This is important in order to take into account the direction of the pattern and the addition of an allowance for a threshold, another ledge (for example, for a radiator, a niche) or docking with the flooring of an adjacent room.

You need to focus on the largest indicators (this also applies to asymmetric types of premises). To the measurements obtained, add 7 cm in length and width. This eliminates the risk of shortage of material. If the canvas is not solid, they are repelled from the length, taking into account the allowance of 7 cm, they are guided by two lengths, while not forgetting to give an allowance for joining.

Foundation preparation

Floor preparation is an important condition for installation. The final aesthetic perception depends on the quality of this stage. It is not enough to buy a beautiful coating - it must be properly and accurately laid.

The process includes several working moments.

Preparation of the premises (completely free the room from furniture);
Dismantling the floor plinth and door frames (if any);
Assessment of the condition of the floor, its alignment in height, getting rid of cracks, pits, bumps.

The type of installation matters. For example, if the linoleum will be located on a concrete base, the surface must be perfectly flat.

If it is planned to lay it on fiberboard, the floor can be trimmed with a mixture of cement and sand in the right proportions, masking the cracks pointwise. If the quality of the mixture leaves much to be desired, tile adhesive of the Ceresit or Eunice brands can be used as a cement composition. Their consistency is perfectly balanced, the mixtures are stirred without lumps, they mask the surface of the floor evenly and do not crumble after drying.

It is not recommended to level the surface with gypsum-based levelers: if there is high humidity in the room, such a leveler will quickly move away from the floor in layers. It is designed for walls and does not provide for a weight load, so these experiments are devoid of common sense.

If for some reason water gets under the linoleum, this leveler will nullify the entire installation, adding the work of re-laying the coating.

After the floor is leveled, it is vacuumed, removing dust and residues of the cement composition. It is important that it is dry and clean: if there are residues of the mixture on the surface, the floor under the linoleum in these places can creak and create unsightly bumps. Then you can start styling.

Preparing for styling

The preparatory stage for laying linoleum depends on the method of laying the material. Usually, linoleum is laid without bending on the wall, although often the canvas is wrapped on the wall, giving it the appearance of a kind of narrow plinth. The second method is used to finish the flooring of a commercial type of industrial premises. This makes it easier to clean the floor without touching the wall. In this case, it is important to calculate the allowance for the linoleum plant on the wall.

When performing flooring without a bend, it is important to cut the canvas correctly. It is customized to the features of a particular room in different ways: right next to the plinth or with a small gap to the walls.

The first method allows you to leave the baseboard before laying, but requires the exact contour of the linoleum and its snug fit to the bottom edge. The plinth can be selected according to the color of the linoleum.
The second option is best solution: often under the influence of different temperature conditions, linoleum can stretch, so it needs a little space (0.5 cm) to lie flat without forming waves against the general background.

You can lay linoleum on different floors.

Parquet;
Hardboard;
Concrete floor;
Old linoleum.

The following tools may be needed for installation.

roller;
metal slats;
Ruler with a corner;
Cutting tool (construction knife);
Welding tool;

Spatula (for the adhesive method);
Primer;
Mastic;
Glue "cold welding" (sealant for seams).

Laying technology provides for the preparation of linoleum. Since linoleum has been on the roll for a long time, it must rest before installation. Before direct laying, it is spread on flat surface and leave for 2-3 days. During this time, the canvas takes a flat position and allows you to make a more accurate fit to the measurements of the room.

Soundproofing the floor in the apartment

To make the floor surface smoother and warmer, soundproofing is placed under the linoleum. It can be a draft floor on logs, leveling and insulating the base, or soundproof board, which is done when arranging a new screed. However, the most simple option sound insulation is a substrate for linoleum, which is made of different materials and often complements the preparation of the floor on a heat and sound insulating subbase.

This stage is the need for installation, however, not all types of material are suitable for work. It is worth paying attention to raw materials with an elastic structure and high bursting resistance.

These include the following.

Membrane sound-absorbing materials;
Single-layer texound made of aragonite and flexible polymers (sometimes on a felt basis);
Tear-resistant fiberglass without harmful impurities;
Isoshum (shumostop) with hydro- and thermal insulation properties;
Isolon is a derivative of polyethylene foam;
Cork substrate made of compressed ground cork chips;
Jute fiber lining.

Having prepared the base and taking care of the heat of the coating and sound insulation, proceed to laying.

DIY installation process

Mounting technology depends on the type of surface. In small rooms with dimensions up to 20 sq. m. linoleum is not glued to the floor surface. Flooring without glue is the simplest and is called dry. The main condition is a dry surface. Linoleum is placed on the floor, the edges are trimmed, the edges are attached to the base (if it is fiberboard or a wooden base, they can be nailed with roofing nails at a distance of about 5 cm).

So that the edge does not collapse over time, it is fixed with aluminum strips, making holes in them the size of nail heads.

In case of concrete base pre-drill holes for plugs, into which screws will then be screwed. However, if the house leads, over time the screws can rise up, breaking the harmony of a perfectly flat floor. In this case, it is enough just to attach the linoleum around the perimeter. The joints are glued, sometimes nailed.

The second option looks less beautiful, so if you can buy a whole sheet, you should forget about saving: a monolithic floor is more practical.

Step-by-step instructions for laying linoleum on glue involve two ways.

With separate dryer

Before laying, the back side of the material is treated with a primer. This minimizes the number of bubbles that prevent perfect operation. It is important to prime the base with an even layer without gaps and give the linoleum and the base time to dry for about a day. Each surface is dried separately without contact. Then mastic is applied on the wrong side of the linoleum over the primer.

After that, the linoleum is determined on the floor surface and the flooring is smoothed, using a special roller for optimal fit, rolling it over the surface and evenly pressing the canvas to the floor.

To properly lay the material against the wall, you need to use a spatula, pressing the linoleum around the perimeter.

When there's not enough space

If it is not possible to dry the linoleum and the floor base separately, you can lay the canvas on the floor and bend at least half a meter. The primer is carried out in parts, after which glue (mastic) is applied to the floor surface, although for reliability it is better to add an adhesive to the back of the linoleum. So that there is not much glue, it is distributed over the surface with a spatula, removing excess.

When gluing the floor covering, it is rolled with a special heavy roller or wiped cork board. This eliminates air bubbles and promotes an even distribution of adhesive between the floor and the back of the floor.

Seam processing

A solid sheet of material is pressed with skirting boards. However, if the coating has joints in a visible place, they are glued by "cold welding" using a special adhesive. The tool is designed to fill the seams, it is transparent or the color of the material. It is used with a welding machine. In addition to "welding", you can use a linoleum profile tape to join the seams. She herself compresses together the coating inserted into it from two sides.

Laying linoleum tiles

With regards to tile linoleum, its laying involves leveling the floor, otherwise the fragments will stand out from each other. After preparing the floor, it is primed, the center of the room is determined. To do this, pull the threads diagonally from the corners of the room. The first tile is placed in the center: glue is applied to its back side, while retreating from the edges of the fragment.

It is important to roll each workpiece with a roller. After gluing all the fragments, a sealant is applied to the surface of the coating.

To make the look of the flooring pleasing to the eye, look professional and solid, you can take note of a few tips from experienced craftsmen.

When laying marble-like or plain linoleum with joints, it is preferable to lay the canvas in the direction of the light: this way the coating will look monolithic;
To glue the joints, you can use double-sided tape;
It is better to purchase a primer with deep penetration: this way the adhesion of the two surfaces will be maximum;
Using oil-chalk mastic, the base can be primed with drying oil;

If the mastic is bituminous or rubber-bitumen, instead of a primer, you can use mastic diluted with gasoline in a ratio of 1: 3;
You can’t immediately unroll the roll and lay the material on an uneven floor: high-quality work does not tolerate haste (both the material and the floor need to be prepared);
If the linoleum moves away from most of the base, it lacks mastic: you need to carefully remove the linoleum, clean it from the adhesive, re-priming and laying.

Experts draw attention to the fact that for some types of floor coverings trade marks develop their own adhesives. This factor matters: if you ignore the manufacturer's recommendations, put linoleum on another glue, you can ruin the structure of the material. If this happens, carpet will help to save the case, with which you can close the floor.