How to stop ground water in the basement. How and what to do if there is water in the cellar

Groundwater problem and possible basement flooding– two complex issues that should be addressed at the construction stage country house. Ignoring these points can lead to such undesirable consequences as the destruction of the foundation, its subsidence, flooding of the basement and damage to all its contents, as well as the floors of the first floor. How protective measures should be taken to prevent disaster? If, nevertheless, the problem could not be avoided, what to do? Perhaps the following information will be useful to you.

What causes groundwater to rise?

For example, these may be floods of closely located rivers or a rise in the water level, provoked by heavy rainfall. Can we influence the first factor? We personally, as summer residents, are unlikely. But we can provide for the fastest removal of precipitation.

How to take ground water?

So that groundwater in the basement of a country house does not create problems, they simply should not be there. To do this, it is worth taking protective measures. What should be attributed to them? Well, firstly, it is a well-timed drainage and, secondly, waterproofing.

Waterproofing is necessary from the moisture contained in the soil in any case, and when groundwater flows significantly below the level of the basement floor, without affecting the underground part of the structure. It is possible to treat all concrete surfaces with special water-repellent compounds, to seal the joints "wall-wall", "wall-floor". This way we can seal...

There is also injection waterproofing. Its essence is that all cracks are filled with multicomponent materials. Due to the special properties of the substance introduced under pressure special equipment, quickly fills all existing external and internal voids, hardens, thereby reliably blocking access to water.

You can forget about flooding basements if, in addition to waterproofing, take care of the drainage system on the site.

Option 1.

With the help of a drill, we will make several wells with a diameter of at least 10-15 cm, and an average length of 3-5 meters. As a rule, this length is sufficient to provide liquid access to permeable layers through dense clay layers, which trap water, causing it to accumulate. We lower a special pipe inside or fill it with rubble to the upper boundary of the hole, cover it with a lid and cover it with earth. Wells, of course, should be done in the lowland parts of the site and build supply paths to them along which flowing water will be directed. As a result, water does not accumulate in the upper layers of the soil, for example, during rain or snowmelt, but freely and deeply goes through the waterproof layers of the soil. And very fast too! Such wells are recommended to be made around the entire perimeter of the basement and in its vicinity.

Option 2.

You can also build a drainage system as follows. First of all, it is required to evaluate the nature of the slope on suburban area, which in turn determines the degree of slope of the pipes. In addition, the larger the diameter of the pipe, the greater the slope. Thus, an independent flow of water is ensured in the direction opposite to the site. We dig trenches along the perimeter of the house and one or two more in the direction from the house to drain the liquid. They should be about 1.5 meters deep, 0.4 m wide, and the slope at the exit should be below the level of the basement. We cover the bottom with a waterproofing tecton, then with geotextiles (the width of the material should be sufficient to wrap the subsequent elements of the entire system with it). The next layers are crushed stone 5 cm thick and pipes directly (at the required slope!). We fill the pipes with crushed stone, the layer of which should be approximately 40 cm, cover everything with geotextiles, pour sand and earth on top. For flat areas, an additional drainage well is dug, where rainwater will be collected. From time to time they are pumped out with a pump.

If the basement is already flooded.

If the organization of waterproofing during construction was not discussed, and the basement was flooded, then it is urgent to drain it, and then think about the drainage system. A properly laid network of drainage pipes will collect and drain not only groundwater, but also melted, rainwater, constantly protecting the foundation, basements from excessive moisture.

Drain the flooded room using a submersible drainage or fecal type pump. There is nothing complicated in their design, as well as operation, which does not prevent the devices from effectively solving their tasks. The choice of model depends entirely on the composition of the liquid in your area, the number and size of foreign particles in it. The drainage pump will perfectly cope with clean or heavily polluted water. However, the fecal will pump all the liquid if it is not just contaminated, but contains debris, for example, particles 50 mm in size.

The next item should be the organization of the drainage network on the site by one of the two above methods.

According to the site: www.kak-sdelat.su

This question, of course, the owners of private houses are asked in the spring, during the period of snowmelt. Radical owners stop using the cellar. The more "advanced" ones are unwilling to come to terms with the "inevitable" laws of nature. And rightly so: the elimination of water in the basement is possible. Furthermore, modern technologies get rid of the problem basement water forever and ever.

Don't skimp. It’s easier (and, in the end, cheaper) to build a solid basement the first time than to redo it endlessly later. Therefore, it is immediately worth thoroughly sealing the walls of the foundation and diverting water from it. If water still seeps into the basement, get rid of it as soon as possible to keep the cellar dry.

Of course, it is easier to prevent a problem than to solve it. A prudent owner, already during the construction of the house, will certainly take care of the reasonable organization of the drainage system and the impeccable waterproofing of the basements. The drainage system will help excess moisture go deep into the soil and not come into contact with the cellar, and basement water so it won't be a huge problem.
But do not be discouraged if this has not been done. For each case, experts will offer the best option problem solving. There are no dead ends. For example, drainage channels can be placed around the perimeter of the basement of an already erected house. And, if possible, arrange them inside the cellar. To do this, a raised floor is usually used.

What is the problem, basement water can be seen in this video

basement water video

Basement water. Sealing foundation walls

By impregnating the soil around the foundation, water creates hydrostatic pressure that guides it through all the defects and joints of the foundation. Coating waterproofing will be the first line of defense.
Among the compositions intended for this, the most common are materials containing bitumen applied to the foundation from the outside. Bitom reduces the porosity of concrete, but later loses its elasticity and becomes more brittle, which leads to cracks. Various plasticizers improve the situation, but their protection will be short-lived. Many developers prefer these coatings for their low cost, but consumers should be careful: the validity of such compounds is about 5-6 years.

It is worth saying that the modern market also offers customers hot mastics with bases of oil bitumen and low molecular weight polypropylene and polyethylene. Materials are heated before use. Them performance characteristics(elasticity, adhesive properties, heat resistance) is higher.
Rigid polystyrene foam is effective for maintaining the integrity of the coating when backfilling the foundation. This material is stable, durable and resistant to microorganisms in the soil. The expanded polystyrene plate contributes to the thermal break between the foundation and the backfilled soil. Although manufacturers claim that today's highly elastic coatings do not need protection, one more insulation of the foundation walls should not be abandoned.
Before applying a coating to concrete, it is worth cleaning the surface. It is also necessary to correctly determine the height of the soil level after excavation is completed, and this indicator must be taken into account when applying the coating. Incorrectly defined height will result in part of the unsealed wall under the backfill. The inevitable shrinkage cracks in the foundation will eventually lead to leakage.

The waterproof coating will be replaced by geocomposite (draining core, filter and membranes) drainage mats attached to the walls of the foundation.
The problem with the use of such polymeric materials is that without effective drainage of the foundation footing, hydrostatic water pressure will push moisture up between the wall and the mats. With this option, water will seep through any crack in the foundation wall.
Summing up the intermediate result on materials for waterproofing walls, it is worth noting: the best coating will not allow water to penetrate through the walls, but will not protect against the accumulation of moisture around the base of the foundation. That is, drainage is necessary.

Sand and gravel - cleanliness in drainage pipes

To keep the basement dry, water must be drained away from the house. The main element of the drainage system can be an ordinary PVC pipe 0100 mm. This is because special pipe with perforated slots is difficult to lay straight, and any mistake in laying will cause clogging of the system and poor flow. In addition, the slots clog quickly. In an ordinary pipe, it will not be difficult to drill two rows of holes in 012 mm. Several layers of filter cloth wrapped around the pipe will prevent the pipe from silting up.
Work on the drainage of water begins with digging a trench to the base of the foundation. Then the filter fabric is unwound and placed with its edges on the ground along the side trench walls.
Gravel is poured over the fabric, it is leveled, and then, with a slight slope towards the exhaust pipe, it is laid PVC pipe. At this stage, it is worth connecting the water inlets located on the surface with the drainage pipes of the foundation sole with vertical risers. Later, the gratings of the water intakes are filled with gravel so that they are not clogged with leaves.
Gravel is poured over the pipe, its level should not reach the upper edge of the sole about 20 cm. The stones are covered with a filter cloth to hold it, several stones or sand shovels are used. For slower clogging of the filter cloth, about 15 cm of coarse sand is poured over it. As a result, a stable and efficient operation of the drainage system (sand protects the fabric, and the fabric protects the stone). With this approach basement water , is unlikely to be your problem. External drains of the foundation sole should be laid with a slope of 2-3 cm / 1 m of the pipe length (or more). If the total length of the drainage system exceeds 60 m, then, most likely, you need to think about additional measures - for example, increasing the diameter of the outlet pipe.
There is no noticeable slope on the site, or there is no collector nearby storm sewer? We'll have to bring the drains of the sole of the foundation to the pump. In this case, the pipe connecting the outer contour of the drainage system with a pump is laid to the water collector along the shortest route.

Water in the basement, drainage system video

It should be noted that the inner contour of the drainage system should not be connected to its outer sector in any way. This is because the risk of problems in the outside is much higher than in the inside. Failure in the external circuit of the combined system will lead to basement flooding, as water will go under the house.
The cause of most of the problems with water under the house is waterlogged backfill. The coating applied to the concrete blocks the access of water through various defects in the foundation. A perforated PVC pipe laid along the base of the foundation drains excess water away from the house. Made of gravel, sand and a special cloth, the filter protects the drainage system from silting. If you do not take care of the drainage of rainwater flowing from the roof, then it will end up in the cellar. If your question basement water what to do and how to get rid of is still relevant, then we will look at a few more methods of dealing with such a problem as basement water.

Water drainage - the further, the better

Also a problem basement water , can solve competent drainage. To divert water from the gutters away from the house - this seems to be an axiom. But not many homes have effective rainwater drainage. Another way to take rain water- connection downpipes with a branch having a steep (as far as possible) slope from the structure.
Due to the accumulation of debris in the gutters, the diameter of the drain pipes must contribute to the reliable removal of moisture even during a downpour - at least 100 mm. In this case, the best outlet pipe for installation is 0150 mm.
Bends at a right angle are undesirable in the drain channel, as they will certainly become clogged with leaves and debris. If the length of the gutter is more than 5 m, then it is better to think about two outlet channels. And one more thing: the drainage pipe of the rain gutters must not be connected to the drainage system of the base of the foundation. "Most likely" blockage drainage system will turn into a blockage of the entire drainage system.

Basement water. What to do and how to get rid of?

Internal drainage circuit (collects water from the walls of the foundation), insulation under concrete slab(keeps steam and water from rising up), a reliable evacuation pump - these are the three components of an effective basement drainage system.
A layer of gravel 20-25 cm thick is laid under the concrete slab. Such backfill is a reliable cushion for concrete, providing drainage under the slab. After laying the gravel, a vapor barrier made of high-density polyethylene is installed. The canvases overlap by at least 40-50 cm, and the joints are sealed with adhesive tape.
Such insulation is not held in high esteem by "concrete workers", since it does not allow moisture from the solution to go into the ground, and this lengthens the technological cycle. But this problem is solved by a sandy layer 70-80 mm thick laid on top of the insulation. Another option is isolation under gravel. In any case, the short-term benefits of intact under-building insulation are worth the temporary installation inconvenience.
The junction of the basement floor and the foundation wall is the best place to capture and drain water that enters the cellar. A fairly effective way to capture water is a plastic perimeter profile placed under a concrete slab - such an apron collects water seeping through the walls. Holes in the profile allow moisture to seep into the gravel under the slab, where the water is pumped out.
A well-functioning pump is the heart of the drainage system, and basement water you are not afraid. Practical experience determines several criteria for choosing this instrument. First of all, the obligatory cast-iron body. Then the ability to pump out polluted water with solid inclusions 10-12 mm in size. And yet - the pump has a mechanical float switch, which is very reliable.
The pump is housed inside a plastic sump that collects and filters water. Such a perforated container is placed in the filler layer. Water from the internal circuit of the drainage system enters the water collector through its side wall. The container must have a sealed, airtight lid - it will not allow moisture to evaporate into the basement, and also protect the water collector from getting various objects that can upset the operation of the switch.
But it is risky - to trust the dryness of the basement only to the pump. In a home blackout situation due to a hurricane, the basement will fill with water very quickly. To insure, the system is equipped with a backup pump on rechargeable batteries, mounted in the water collector, where the main pump is. The discharge pipeline for it can be used the same.
High-efficiency systems use pumps that are equipped with batteries and chargers for long-term standby. Charger very important, since untimely recharging will lead to a basement bay.
The pumped water is supplied either to the storm drain through the pipeline (if the first one is available), or outside, where it is removed as far as possible from the building. It is necessary to mount the discharge pipeline so that it does not freeze in winter. This is our article Basement water. What to do and how to get rid, has come to an end, we hope that after it, the water in the basement will cease to be your headache, and the arrival of spring will be accompanied only by joyful surprises.

Groundwater has an extremely negative effect on the house as a whole, since it brings with it a lot of complications and discomfort. This story can happen to homeowners for many reasons. Mainly due to poor-quality work done on the waterproofing of the premises. As a result, cracks form in the ceilings or joints, through which moisture penetrates. Water can seep into the basement due to weather conditions (melting snow, excessive rain). But the probability of violation of the groundwater level, of course, exists and is extremely high.

After finishing the internal work on horizontal waterproofing, you should then move on to vertical waterproofing.

To the problem of groundwater in country house did not bother in the future, it must be eliminated. And you can eliminate the constant flooding of the basement only by improving or completely changing the waterproofing of the basement.

The importance of basement waterproofing

The most dangerous seasons in terms of groundwater penetration into basements are autumn and spring. It is during these periods that the largest number rainfall, which is why the groundwater level is extremely unstable

Basement insulation should begin with a cause analysis. It is necessary to find out what is the weak link in the process of protecting the basement from groundwater. There may be several options: skipping the stage of waterproofing work, poor-quality basement insulation, use of unsuitable waterproofing agents or their improper use, breakage of the pipeline.

In general, if the basement is flooded, it loses its purpose (becomes dangerous for storing food and being in it for a person), the property of isolating water in the basement for other areas of the house is lost. There is always high humidity and condensation. And this further leads to the appearance of various fungi, including mold. Basement insulation needed.

By all means, all the basements of the house are located either above or below the groundwater mark. And in order to carry out appropriate work to eliminate leaks and avoid them in the future, it is necessary to be based on this level.

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Basement below groundwater

Methods for carrying out waterproofing work are the same, only the use of related materials, their price and quality are different.

Groundwater penetrates into the basement only through cracks in the floor and walls, corner joints of the floor with the wall. Since groundwater is above the basement floor, therefore, the water pressure is very significant. For similar works you should choose only materials of high quality and proven by many years of experience, you should study everything in depth and consult with a specialist in this matter.

The scheme of waterproofing works, provided that the groundwater level is above the cellar floor, is as follows:

• a trench is being dug around the entire perimeter of the basement;
• external walls are thoroughly cleaned of soil and other dirt;
• work to restore the insulating properties of walls. Carefully carried out vertical and horizontal isolation of the basement from water. For vertical waterproofing, a penetrating water repellent and coating sealants should be used. Water repellents should be selected in such a way that they contain antiseptics, water repellents and other moisture insulators;
• laying drainage around the perimeter of the cellar. In the future, drainage will protect the walls of the building from excessive rainfall. To do this, storm water storage tanks (pipes) are attached to the storm water inlets under the drainpipes. Not far from the cellar, a storm well is equipped. Then the storm pipes are diverted to the well;
• backfilling of the trench, restoration of the blind area around the entire perimeter of the basement.

Internal works include:

• installation of a substrate for waterproofing;
• corner joints between the floor and the wall are lined with a self-inflating betonite cord;
• pouring concrete. Concrete must be enriched with water repellents and modified fibers.

If the groundwater level is much higher than the level of the cellar floor, then it would be very rational to equip wells under the basement floor. They also install special pumps. These self-submersible pumps are automatic and are switched on when necessary to pump out groundwater. Further, when the critical level of water in the basement of the house rises, it enters the well, and is artificially discharged from there. It is also necessary to restore the insulating properties of the walls. To do this, it is necessary to make pits at a height above the groundwater level. In them, under pressure, using appropriate equipment, special compositions of water repellents are pumped into the walls.

After finishing internal works on horizontal waterproofing should be switched to vertical. It includes the use of special protective compounds with a penetrating effect.

Restoration work in progress ventilation system. She plays an important role in the basement. The supply and exhaust system balances the level of humidity in the room, helps to get rid or prevent the formation of mold spores, and eliminates unpleasant odors.

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In the case when the groundwater in the basement is located below the basement floor, then drip suction takes place here. It, in turn, entails the formation of condensate and all the same mold.

For a similar arrangement of groundwater waterproofing works cellars are held according to the following scheme:

• digging a trench around the entire perimeter of the basement;
• cleaning the walls of the foundation;
• works on horizontal wall insulation are being carried out. Special protective compounds are pumped through the pits;
• work on the vertical insulation of the walls. For these works, special sealants with a penetrating effect are used, they cover the bases of the walls;
• laying drainage along the perimeter of the building with equipment for storm drains and storm ditches;
• restore the trench and blind area;
• restore the horizontal insulation of the walls inside the room. To do this, waterproofing compounds are pumped into the pits drilled in the walls in a certain sequence;
• restore the ventilation system.

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External basement insulation methods

There are other ways to protect the basement from the penetration of groundwater. Why choose the most suitable materials and compositions for each specific case. Some of the most common are dry mixes, bitumen-based compositions (polymer tape, bituminous, polymer-bitumen putties), latex derivatives. As with everything, there are both positives and negatives in these materials. negative sides. But their principle is the same, it lies in the penetrating effect.

The principle of working with these compounds is quite primitive. It is only necessary to cover the prepared walls and foundation with a mixture of waterproofing composition. This mixture will be an invisible film that has the property of repelling water, thereby protecting it from spoilage. Such protective compounds penetrate the walls and accumulate in them, thereby protecting the premises during the entire operational period.

Compositions based on bitumen should be applied in two or even three layers. Only after the complete drying of the insulating composition, you can proceed to other repair work.

Other ways to eliminate or prevent moisture ingress include:

• the outer wall of the basement is covered with special mastic (or latex glue);
• ruberoid is glued on top of the mastic (another material endowed with no less protective properties);
• another layer of insulating compound is applied next;
• a sheet of roofing material is glued so that it falls under the joints of the previous layer.

High humidity in the cellar appears for various reasons. First of all, it is necessary to find out why it has increased, take measures to eliminate it, and then bring it back to normal. At the last stage - if necessary, disinfect. In any case, without properly organized ventilation and waterproofing, the problem will appear again and again. Therefore, before drying the cellar, check if the ventilation pipes are clogged, if the waterproofing is damaged.

Prevent dampness

As usual, this “disease” is easier (and cheaper) to prevent than to treat. It is still being decided at the design stage:

Inspecting the floor

Very often in the cellar the floor is made of earth. Often it is the source of excess moisture. Through it, the moisture contained in the soil gets inside. To reduce the humidity in the cellar, you need to level the earthen floor, tamp it down and cover it with a thick plastic wrap. You can use roofing felt, but it breaks more often. Although it seems more durable, it breaks due to less elasticity.

It is not necessary to pour sand or earth on top of the film. Sometimes there is a large amount of water in the basement (accidental flooding). Then you simply take out the film, the water goes partly into the ground, partly evaporates through ventilation. After the dampness is gone, you can lay the floor again. If there is earth or sand on top, you will need to poke around in this liquid, extracting the film.

If the floor in the cellar is earthen, most of the moisture enters through it

If, after laying the film, the level of humidity in the cellar has decreased, then you have found the cause. You can leave everything as it is, only periodically change the “flooring”, or you can make a concrete floor with full waterproofing. The choice is yours. To prevent the film from tearing when walked on, knock down the wooden shields and throw them on the floor.

Improving waterproofing

The second reason why humidity rises in the basement is an insufficient degree of vapor barrier or waterproofing of the walls. This usually occurs if the cellar is lined with bricks, especially silicate. The material is very hygroscopic and passes water vapor well. They settle in drops on the ceiling and all objects.

The problem can be solved if you make a good external waterproofing: dig out the walls and apply bituminous mastic in two layers. Previously coated with resin, but mastic is more effective and easier to handle.

But excavation is far from always a joy, and it is not always possible to dig out the walls. In this case, you can make an internal waterproofing of the walls of the cellar. For this, there are cement-based impregnations: Pnetron, Kalmatron, Hydrotex, etc. They penetrate to a depth of up to half a meter into the thickness of the material (concrete, brick, etc.) and block the capillaries through which water seeps. Water permeability is greatly reduced. Their only downside is the price. But they are really effective.

All these measures will prevent the appearance of high humidity in the basement. But what to do if there is already moisture, how to dry the cellar? Next, consider ways to reduce humidity.

Preparatory work

All supplies are taken out of the basement, as well as all wooden structures, clean well. On the street, they inspect wood - shelves / boxes / boxes. If they are not affected, and there is no fungus or mold, they are simply laid out in the sun to dry. If there are signs of damage, the wood is impregnated with a solution of copper sulfate (concentration 5-10%, no more).

Whitewashing with lime gives good results - it will also “collect” moisture from the air. Therefore, before draining the basement, it makes sense to whitewash everything. They just don't do it the way they do it. It is necessary to apply a thick layer of lime on the walls. To do this, make a bucket of thick whitewash, add a little diluted copper sulphate. It is an excellent disinfectant, but the concentration should not be higher than 5%, maximum - 10. The resulting thick liquid is poured in half into two containers.

The first half is lowered into the basement, dressed in old clothes, put on glasses, and cover their hands. take paint brush for whitewashing (it looks more like a small broom) and corners are well smeared with it. Then you slurp the liquid with a brush, and spray it on the walls and ceiling. Just dip in thick whitewash and spray on the walls. They are covered with drops, tubercles of lime.

After everything is covered with lime, wait a day until it dries. Repeat everything with the second bucket. As a result, the walls and ceiling are porous and uneven. But condensation rarely hangs on them: lime retains moisture well inside. After the lime dries, you can begin to dry the cellar.

Basement dehumidification with ventilation

Sometimes it happens like this: it was dry in the cellar, and suddenly dampness appeared. One reason is poor ventilation. First of all, check the cleanliness of the ventilation ducts. If necessary, clean. If everything is fine, but the dampness does not go away, then the exhaust pipe is not working properly. This happens when the air in the cellar is colder than outside. Heavy and cold, he himself will not climb the pipe. A paradoxical, at first glance, situation arises: it was cold and damp outside - it was dry in the cellar. It got warmer - drops of moisture hung on the ceiling, walls and objects, a musty smell appeared. In this case, in order to dry the cellar, it is necessary to activate the movement of air. There are several solutions.

Sometimes increased air movement leads to the fact that the humidity in the cellar does not decrease, but increases. This can often be seen in hot weather. The reason is this. Warm air carries with it a significant amount of moisture in the form of vapours. Getting into a cool cellar, the air cools down, and moisture condenses on the coldest surfaces: the ceiling, walls, sometimes on shelves and cans. If you have just such a case, then stop ventilation. Even close the supply pipe and close the lid well, limiting the flow of warm air.

How to dry the cellar in this case? Wait until autumn, and when there is no rain yet, but the temperature is already about + 10 ° C, start ventilation using one of the methods proposed above. Works. If your nights are cold in summer, you can turn on the fan at night and close the ventilation ducts during the day. So gradually you can reduce the humidity in the cellar in the summer.

We heat the cellar

If you need to remove dampness even during warm weather, and ventilation only worsens the situation, you need to heat the air in the basement so that it comes out on its own, taking moisture away (the higher the air temperature, the more vapor it can contain).

To do this, take an old bucket or other metal container of about the same volume. They make a lot of holes in it (you can use an ax) in the bottom and walls. Such a leaky bucket is tied to a cable (attach securely). Coals for barbecue are poured inside (you can burn it yourself), the bucket should be almost full. Coals are kindled and stable combustion is achieved (to accelerate combustion, you can adapt a vacuum cleaner by turning it on for blowing). A bucket of glowing coals is lowered on a cable into the cellar, fixed so that it hangs above the bottom, and the lid is closed.

Periodically, the cellar lid must be opened, letting in an additional portion of oxygen (every 20-30 minutes). You can put a fan on the supply pipe or periodically turn on the same vacuum cleaner. If the coals still go out, they are kindled again.

Attention! It is better not to climb inside, do everything from above. Firstly, the temperature there is high (in a room of about 2 * 3 meters, about 70 ° C), and secondly, smoke and, perhaps, carbon monoxide accumulate inside.

As the coals burned out, they took out the bucket, closed the lid. Do not look inside for three days: smoke and gases will kill the mold and, along with drying, you will disinfect your cellar. Usually one such "firebox" is enough to dry the basement in the house or on the street. Similarly, you can get rid of dampness in the basement under the garage.

Sometimes coke or coal is used instead of charcoal. He gives more high temperature and the “processing” takes longer, but it burns more difficult, requires more oxygen, often forced blowing (adapt the old vacuum cleaner and corrugated hose, but turn it on for blowing). But the temperature rises even higher and dries even more efficiently. But the price of coke is high, even if you don't go broke because of buying a bucket.

Instead of a bucket of burning coal, you can use other heaters:

• a propane burner (lower the burning one on the wire, make sure that it does not light anything and leave it hanging in the middle, as tired, close the valve, open the lid only every other day);
• decent power heat gun (3-5 kW);
• kirogaz;
• lower the potbelly stove into the basement and heat it.

All these methods can be used, but you have to go down into the cellar in order to ignite the kyrogaz or potbelly stove. And this is an unsafe undertaking and do not use this method alone. It is necessary that someone belay you upstairs. Regarding the heat gun: it is also better to lower it by tying it (tying it) with a cable, and not lowering it yourself.

How to dry the basement in the garage is described in the video.

How to dry a cellar without ventilation

If ventilation was not done during construction, it is advisable to arrange it now. At least some: it will be easier to get rid of dampness. Better, of course, two pipes - one for inflow, the second for outflow - as described at the beginning of the article. If the cellar is made separately on the street, it is easier to organize: they broke through the ground and the roof of the cellar, inserted pipes, filled everything with concrete mortar.

It’s more difficult with a garage, but no one here clings to aesthetics. But if the basement is without ventilation under the house, it’s more difficult to make it: it’s better not to break the foundation, and you can’t stretch many pipes through the floor into the room. But even in this case, make at least one pipe. Even if through the cover, lead to the wall or ceiling, put the supply and exhaust fan. It can be switched on either for supply or exhaust, and in this way to somehow dry the cellar.

With at least such ventilation, you can use any of the methods described above. You can also try to collect more moisture. For this inside lay out hygroscopic materials:

If all these dances with tambourines do not inspire confidence in you (although they work), you can dry the cellar using modern technology. There are such Appliances —household dehumidifiers. They are often placed in pools to get rid of dampness in the room. You will need a medium power model. They cost about 20-30 thousand rubles, they work from home network 220 V. In the process, moisture is collected from the air in a special container. You will need to periodically drain the water.

One way to dry out a damp basement is to install a household dehumidifier.

Disinfection and fight against fungi and mold

Increased humidity in the cellar leads to the fact that mold, fungi appear on the walls, ceiling shelves different types and flowers, and all this beauty is accompanied by "aromas". In this case, everything that can be taken out of the cellar is taken out and laid out to dry. wooden shelves, boxes, boards, racks, after drying, whiten with lime with the addition of a solution of copper sulphate. Better twice.

In the cellar, you clean off all the growths from the walls and ceiling, whiten with lime and blue vitriol twice (the technology is described at the beginning of the article). Before the main drying, special events can be carried out that will destroy the spores (or neutralize them for a while).

Vapors of lime

In the cellar, put a barrel filled with quicklime. Lime is taken at the rate of 3 kg per 1 cubic meter of volume. In a barrel of lime should be a maximum, a little more than half. Fill everything with water. Don't interfere. Get out quickly and tightly (hermetically) close the lid and all ventilation ducts. You can open in two days, ventilate well, then you can go down.

Repeat the treatment after 7-10 days. Vapors of lime should burn out mold and fungi, destroy insects and their larvae. They also cope with the smells of dampness and mustiness very effectively. True, for several days in the cellar it will smell like lime.

Sulfuric (smoke) bomb

Use sulfur flask. They are sold in stores selling seeds or household equipment. Each has instructions. But, in short, you need to act according to the following scheme:

• take out all metal things, if this is not possible, cover them with a layer of lubricant - grease or something similar.
• You set fire to the wick of the sulfur checker, it begins to smolder.
• Get out quickly, close the lid and ventilation ducts hermetically, leave for 5-6 hours.

If the basement is in the house, it is advisable to leave it for the time of processing: a couple of breaths with insufficient tightness and the lungs will need to be put in order for a long time.

Disinfection occurs due to the formation of sulfuric acid. It is obtained by the reaction of sulfuric anhydride and water. Therefore, the mold is more effectively killed with a sulfur checker in wet cellars.

After 5-6 hours (or after the time indicated on the package), open the ventilation ducts and the lid (in that order). Leave open for at least 12 hours. The remaining gases are vented during this time. You can come in.

From the experience of operating such checkers, we can say that they need to be ignited twice as much as the norm. Then everything will really be neutralized.

Mold remover

Sometimes white fluffy growth appears on wood or walls. This is one type of fungus. It can be dealt with by the methods described above, but if only it is present, you can find a means for removing hard mounting foam on the construction market (they sell it in the same place as foam). Insert the tube into the mounting gun and apply to places with fungus. It immediately starts to roll over. And then on this place does not appear.

Sprinkling on the floor

If your floor is earthen, lay a thick plastic film on it (for which it is described above), knock down the wooden bars and throw them on the floor. Scatter pieces of slaked lime under them. And they will collect moisture and create “bad” conditions for fungi.

How to dry out a basement after a flood

If the flooding was accidental, you need to pump out water in any way possible, and then proceed according to the standard scheme:

• Take out everything you can from their cellar.
• Leave all the lid and vents open for a while.
• When more or less dry, remove debris, fungi, mold from the walls and floor.
• Whitewash with lime.
• Dry one of the ways.

If the flooding is periodic - in the spring, for example, you will have to make a full-fledged drainage system, and this is a separate conversation.

All the methods described above on how to dry the cellar are mostly based on practical experience. They are used everywhere and very often. In one case, one method works, in the other, another. Your task is to find the most effective for your situation.

When the long-awaited spring comes, many begin to have problems with flooding cellars and cellars. Such an unpleasant situation happens due to a rise in the level of groundwater. The earth becomes like a sponge that absorbs water and retains it. If the groundwater level rises above the foundation, then moisture seeps into the room through cracks.

The cause of basement flooding is the first aquifer. It is formed from nearby rivers, lakes, reservoirs. Also, the level of groundwater is affected by melted snow and precipitation in the form of rain. There are several ways to help deal with annual floods. By choosing one of them for yourself, you will be able to make the basement dry.

Creation of a drainage system

Drainage is a drainage system consisting of trenches, pipes and a well. With it, it is possible to prevent flooding of the basement, as well as drain land plot. The drainage system is made at the stage of basement construction. A properly installed system will help to forget about the water in the basement once and for all and protect the foundation from destruction.

How does it work drainage system
The basis of the drainage is a pipe of large diameter (at least 100 mm). It has holes all over. Through them, groundwater seeps into the pipe and flows into the collector. In order for the system to work well, the following conditions must be created:

1. Dig a sloped trench around the basement below the floor. This will ensure efficient water collection and runoff.
2. Be sure to use filter materials (geotextile and crushed stone) that will protect the pipe from flooding.
3. Drainage to the central sewer, where a large amount of groundwater will accumulate.

What is necessary:

• drainage pipe wrapped in geotextile;
• fine, washed gravel;
• geotextile fabric;
• river sand.

Mounting

1. Make a trench below the floor level around the foundation and a deep well at a distance of 10-15 meters from the building. The trench should have a slope sufficient for water runoff.
2. Place a sheet of geotextile into the excavated trench. And then cover with crushed stone (layer thickness 10 cm). Thus, you will create a primary layer that filters groundwater.
3. At the next stage, lay the drainage pipe (preferably two-layer in geotextile) on a layer of rubble. Check that the slope is maintained throughout the trench. Using a tee, lay the outlet pipe to the well.
4. The laid pipe is completely covered with rubble. Leave 20 cm to the top of the trench. Fold the free edges of the geotextile over the crushed stone bedding. This will completely isolate the drainage from the ground. After that, fill the trench with sand.

As a result, you will get a reliable drainage system. Geotextiles and crushed stone act as a filter, preventing clogging of the perforated pipe. And the sand will ensure the transportation of moisture from the soil surface to the drainage channel.

Conclusion
Drainage channels installed around the basement will help eliminate the main cause of flooding - high level ground water. The result of the drainage will be a dry basement. Unfortunately, this system has its own significant drawback. It is customary (according to technology) to install drainage channels outside the premises, so not all basements can be equipped this way.

However, in exceptional cases, cellar owners can build drainage channels inside the premises. The installation process is almost the same, with the exception of some points that occur during the floor screed stage. After installation internal system drainage, the basement will lose 30 cm of height.

Creation of an automatic water pumping system

Not all basement owners have the opportunity to create a slope with a drainage system. Therefore, in such areas, a different method is used. To dry the room, install automatic system pumping out excess water.

What does that require:

1. Create a recess (pit) in the basement. Dig a hole measuring 50x50x50 cm. Then reinforce it with concrete or brickwork - this must be done to prevent the walls from collapsing. Pour 10 cm thick gravel into the hole.
2. Purchase a special pump that automatically turns on when a certain level of water accumulates.

Mounting
In the excavated pit, place the pump, connect the hoses to it and take them away from the room. When the volume of groundwater increases, it will first accumulate in the pit. The pump will work, reacting to the rising level, and pump out excess moisture. This will continue until the groundwater finally subsides.

Conclusion
A fairly simple system that is inexpensive. Quick to install and easy to set up. But this system has two significant drawbacks. First, the pump works properly until it exhausts its resource, and then it will have to be replaced. Second, the pumping system will not eliminate the cause of flooding, but only temporarily relieve the consequences.

Basement waterproofing

Wall and floor waterproofing helps provide a quality waterproof barrier. It consists of three layers: penetrating waterproofing, bituminous mastic and plaster. Apply coats above flood level with some headroom in case groundwater rises.

What does that require:

1. Buy materials: hydrotex or penetron, bituminous mastic, sand, waterproof cement, metal mesh for plaster are used as penetrating waterproofing.
2. Collect necessary tools: a hard brush and a spatula for applying compounds, an iron brush for grouting between brick joints or cracks, a mixer and a container for mixing the mortar.
3. Prepare the basement: pump out the water - for this it is convenient to use the "Kid" pump with a lower suction. After drying, clean the surface of the floor and walls from dirt. Rub the seams, corners, cracks with a brush.

Mounting

1. Treat the concrete floor and walls with penetrating waterproofing. This composition is deeply absorbed and clogs macrocracks through which water penetrates into the basement.
2. Then smear bituminous mastic corners, seams, cracks. Then, in the same way, apply mastic to the remaining surface of the walls and floor. The layer thickness must be at least 2 cm.
3. Attach the metal grill to the wall. It is necessary to ensure the rigidity of the plaster layer. Prepare a cement mortar, medium viscosity. Using a spatula, apply a layer of plaster 3 cm thick.
4. Lay a metal mesh on the floor and fill it with liquid cement mortar and let it dry. At this point, the process of creating basement waterproofing can be considered complete.

Conclusion
The waterproofing layer prevents groundwater seepage through cracks. It also makes concrete stronger, extending the life of walls and floors. The waterproofing method is an excellent alternative to a drainage system, which is not possible in all basements.

So, the above methods of dealing with basement flooding will help get rid of excess water. Each has its own installation features, advantages and disadvantages. You need to choose a method based on specific goals and financial capabilities.

Video: how to make drainage in the basement with your own hands