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How to make your own phone charger. DIY wireless charging: instruction, video and very useful advice


This tutorial will show you how you can get 5V USB from a 9V battery and use it to charge your mobile phone.
The photo shows the assembled circuit in work, but this is not the final version, since I will also make a case for it at the end.
So, let's start making.

materials


The picture shows the components needed to assemble the charger, including one empty case from an old battery, in which the device will be built.
Accessories and materials:
  • Old battery for the case.
  • USB port.
  • Microcircuit regulator 7805.
  • One green LED.
  • Resistors 220R - 3 pcs.
  • Solder.
  • Wires.

Scheme


The diagram shows the pinout of the 7805 regulator, the USB connector, and the circuit itself of a simple converter.

Assembling the charger according to the scheme


After disassembling the old battery, parts can be soldered to the base with a connector. Everything is assembled in five minutes, and I think that nothing needs to be explained, except for the resistors connected to the middle USB contacts - Data + and Data -. And they are needed so that the cell phone itself understands that it is connected to a charger, and not to a computer for data transfer.
The circuit does not need to be configured and starts working immediately.
The LED indicates the presence of charging current. If it is not lit, then the battery is completely discharged, or the phone is fully charged.

Creating a do-it-yourself solar USB charger for your phone is one of the most interesting and useful projects on. Making a homemade charger is not too difficult - the necessary components are not very expensive and they are easy to get. USB solar chargers are ideal for charging small devices such as phones.


The weak point of all homemade solar chargers are batteries. Most are assembled on the basis of standard nickel-metal hydride batteries - cheap, affordable and safe to use. But unfortunately, NiMH batteries have too low voltage and capacity to be seriously considered as a quality, the power consumption of which is only growing every year.


For example, the iPhone 4's 2000 mAh battery can still be fully recharged with a homemade solar charger with two or four AA batteries, but the iPad 2 has a 6000 mAh battery, which is no longer so easy to recharge using a similar charger.


The solution to this problem is to replace nickel-metal hydride batteries with lithium ones.


From this instruction you will learn how to make a solar USB charger with a lithium battery with your own hands. First, compared to this homemade charger will cost you very cheap. Secondly, it is very easy to assemble it. And most importantly, this lithium USB charger is safe to use.

Step 1: Necessary components to assemble a USB solar charger.


Electronic components:

  • Solar panel 5V or higher
  • 3.7 V lithium-ion battery
  • Li-Ion Battery Charge Controller
  • DC boost USB circuit
  • 2.5 mm socket with panel mount
  • 2.5 mm jack with wire
  • Diode 1N4001
  • The wire

Construction materials:

  • Insulating tape
  • Heat shrink tubing
  • Double Sided Foam Tape
  • Solder
  • Tin box (or other case)

Tools:

  • soldering iron
  • hot glue gun
  • Drill
  • Dremel (optional but preferred)
  • wire cutters
  • Wire stripper
  • Help a friend

This tutorial will show you how to make a solar powered phone charger. You can refuse to use solar panels and limit yourself to making ordinary USB chargers on lithium-ion batteries.


Most of the components for this project can be purchased from online electronics stores, but the USB DC boost circuit and Li-Ion battery charge controller will not be easy to find. Later in this guide, I will tell you where you can get most of the necessary components and what each of them is needed for. Based on this, you yourself decide which option suits you best.


Step 2: Benefits of lithium battery chargers.


Maybe you don’t know, but most likely the lithium-ion battery is right now in your pocket or on the table, or maybe in your wallet or. Most modern electronic devices use lithium-ion batteries, which are characterized by high capacity and voltage. They can be recharged multiple times. Most AA batteries are nickel-metal hydride batteries in terms of chemical composition and cannot boast of high technical characteristics.

From a chemical point of view, the difference between a standard AA NiMH battery and a lithium-ion battery is the chemical elements contained within the battery. If you look at Mendeleev's periodic table of elements, you will see that lithium is in the left corner next to the most reactive elements. But nickel is located in the middle of the table next to chemically inactive elements. Lithium is so reactive because it has only one valence electron.


And just for this reason, there are a lot of complaints about lithium - sometimes it can get out of control due to its high chemical activity. A few years ago, Sony, a leader in laptop batteries, manufactured a batch of low-quality laptop batteries, some of which spontaneously ignited.

That is why when working with lithium-ion batteries, we must take certain precautions - to maintain the voltage very accurately during charging. This manual uses 3.7V batteries that require a charging voltage of 4.2V. If this voltage is exceeded or decreased, the chemical reaction can get out of control with all the consequences.

This is why extreme care must be taken when working with lithium batteries. If handled with care, they are quite safe. But if you do unacceptable things with them, then this can lead to big trouble. Therefore, they should only be used strictly according to the instructions.

Step 3: Selecting a lithium-ion battery charge controller.


Due to the high chemical reactivity of lithium batteries, you must be one hundred percent sure that the charge voltage control circuit will not let you down.

Although you can make your own voltage control circuit, it's better to just buy a ready-made circuit that you can be sure of. Several charge control schemes are available to choose from.

Adafruit is currently releasing the second generation of lithium battery charge controllers with multiple input voltages available. These are quite good controllers, but they are too large. It is unlikely that on their basis it will be possible to assemble a compact charger.

On the Internet, you can buy small modules of lithium battery charging controllers, which are used in this manual. Based on these controllers, I also collected many others. I like them for their compactness, simplicity and the presence of LED indication of battery charge. As with Adafruit, when the sun is out, the lithium battery can be charged via the controller's USB port. The ability to charge via USB port is an extremely useful option for any solar charger.

Regardless of which controller you choose, you must know how it works and how to use it correctly.

Step 4: USB port.


The USB port can charge most modern devices. This is the standard all over the world. Why not just connect the USB port directly to the battery? Why do I need a special circuit for USB charging?

The problem is that the USB standard is 5V, and the Li-Ion batteries we'll be using in this project are only 3.7V. enough to charge various devices. Most commercial and homemade USB chargers, on the other hand, use step-down circuits, as they are built on the basis of 6 and 9 V batteries. Step-down circuits are more complex, so it is better not to use them in solar chargers.


The circuit used in this manual was chosen as a result of extensive testing of various options. It is almost identical to Adafruit's Minityboost circuit but costs less.

Of course, you can buy a cheap USB charger online and take it apart, but we need a circuit that converts 3V (voltage from two AA batteries) to 5V (voltage from USB). Dismantling a conventional or car USB charger will not work, since their circuits work to lower the voltage, but on the contrary, we need to increase the voltage.

In addition, it should be noted that the Mintyboost circuit and the circuit used in the project are capable of working with Apple gadgets, unlike most other USB chargers. Apple devices check the data pins on the USB to know where they are connected. If the Apple gadget determines that the information pins are not working, then it will refuse to charge. Most other gadgets do not have such a check. Trust me - I have tried many cheap eBay charging schemes - none of them have been able to charge my iPhone. You don't want to be unable to charge Apple gadgets from your homemade USB charger.

Step 5: Choose a battery.

If you google a little, you will find a huge variety of sizes, capacities, voltages and costs. At first, it will be easy to get confused in all this diversity.

For our charger, we will be using a 3.7V lithium polymer (Li-Po) battery, which is very similar to an iPod or mobile phone battery. Indeed, we need a battery exclusively for 3.7 V, since the charging circuit is designed specifically for this voltage.

The fact that the battery should be equipped with built-in protection against overcharging and overdischarging is not even discussed. Usually this protection is called "PCB protection" ("protection scheme"). Search for these keywords on the eBay online auction site. From itself, it is just a small printed circuit board with a chip that protects the battery from excessive charge and discharge.

When choosing a lithium-ion battery, look not only at its capacity, but also at its physical size, which mainly depends on the case you choose. I used an Altoids tin box as the case, so I was limited in my choice of battery. At first I thought about buying a 4400 mAh battery, but due to its large size, I had to limit myself to a 2000 mAh battery.

Step 6: Connecting the solar panel.


If you're not going to make a solar-powered charger, you can skip this step.

This guide uses a 5.5V 320mA hard plastic solar panel. Any large solar array will do. For a charger, it is best to choose a battery designed for a voltage of 5 - 6 V.


Take the wire by the end, divide it into two parts and strip the ends a little. The wire with the white stripe is negative and the all black wire is positive.


Solder the wires to the appropriate pins on the back of the solar panel.

Cover the solder points with electrical tape or hot glue. This will protect them and help reduce stress on the wires.

Step 7: Drilling the tin box or case.


Since I used an Altoids tin box as the case, I had to work a little with a drill. In addition to a drill, we also need a tool such as a dremel.

Before you start working with a tin box, put all the components in it to make sure in practice that it suits you. Think about how best to place the components in it, and only then drill. You can mark the location of the components with a marker.


After designating the places, you can get to work.

You can remove the USB port in several ways: make a small cut right at the top of the box, or drill a hole of the appropriate size on the side of the box. I decided to make a hole on the side.


First attach the USB port to the box and mark its location. Drill two or more holes inside the marked area with a drill.


Sand the hole with a dremel. Be sure to follow safety precautions so as not to injure your fingers. In no case do not hold the box in your hands - clamp it in a vise.

Drill a 2.5mm hole for the USB port. If necessary, expand it with a dremel. If you don't plan on installing a solar panel, then the 2.5mm hole is not necessary!

Step 8: Connecting the charge controller.


One of the reasons I chose this compact charge controller is its high reliability. It has four contact pads: two in front next to the mini-USB port, where DC voltage is supplied (in our case, from solar panels), and two in the back for the battery.


To connect the 2.5 mm connector to the charge controller, you need to solder two wires and a diode from the connector to the controller. In addition, it is advisable to use heat shrink tubing.


Fix the 1N4001 diode, charge controller and 2.5mm connector. Position the connector in front of you. If you look at it from left to right, then the left contact will be negative, the middle contact will be positive, and the right contact will not be used at all.


Solder one end of the wire to the negative leg of the connector, and the other to the negative pin on the board. In addition, it is advisable to use heat shrink tubing.

Solder another wire to the leg of the diode, next to which the mark is applied. Solder it as close to the base of the diode as possible to save more space. Solder the other side of the diode (no label) to the middle pin of the connector. Again, try to solder as close to the base of the diode as possible. Finally, solder the wires to the positive terminal on the board. In addition, it is advisable to use heat shrink tubing.

Step 9: Connecting the battery and USB circuits.


At this stage, you only need to solder four additional contacts.


You need to connect the battery and USB circuit to the charge controller board.


Cut some wires first. Solder them to the positive and negative pins on the USB circuit, which are located on the underside of the board.


After that, connect these wires together with the wires coming from the lithium-ion battery. Make sure you connect the negative wires together and connect the positive wires together. I remind you that the red wires are positive, and the black wires are negative.


After you have twisted the wires together, weld them to the contacts on the battery, which are located on the back of the charge controller board. Before soldering the wiring, it is advisable to thread through the holes.

Now we can congratulate you - you have 100% completed the electrical part of this project and you can relax a bit.


At this point, it's a good idea to test the functionality of the circuit. Since all electrical components are connected, everything should work. Try charging your iPod or any other gadget equipped with a USB port. The device will not charge if the battery is low or defective. Also, place the charger in the sun and see if the battery will be charged by the solar panel - this should light up a small red LED on the charge controller board. You can also charge the battery with a mini-USB cable.

Step 10: Electrical isolation of all components.


Before placing all the electronic components in the tin box, we must make sure that it cannot cause a short circuit. If you have a plastic or wooden case, then skip this step.

Glue a few strips of tape on the bottom and sides of the tin box. It is in these places that the USB circuit and the charging controller will be located. The photographs show that the charge controller was left loose with me.

Try to carefully insulate everything so that a short circuit does not occur. Before applying hot glue or winding electrical tape, make sure the soldering is strong.

Step 11: Placing the electronic components in the case.


Since the 2.5mm jack needs to be secured with bolts, place it first.



My USB circuit had a switch on the side. If you have the same circuit, then first check if the switch that is needed to enable and disable the "charge mode" is working.


And finally, you need to fix the battery. For this purpose, it is better to use not hot glue, but several pieces of double-sided tape or electrical tape.


Step 12: Operation of the Homemade Solar Charger.


In conclusion, let's talk about the proper operation of homemade USB charging.

You can charge the battery through the mini-USB port or from the sun. The red LED on the charge controller board indicates the charging process, and the blue one indicates a fully charged battery.

Sometimes the chargers used by gadgets fail. There are people who are interested in trying everything themselves. As a result, homemade chargers for the phone are born.

Reasons for making a DIY charger

How to charge your phone? This question does not bother many people, but only until they encounter problems that can lie in wait for everyone.

So, why might we need to create a phone charger?

  • The failure of the telephone battery - until the purchase of a new one.
  • The ability to recharge the phone where there is no network.
  • Ability to create a spare charger.

The most simple solution is the question of how to make a portable battery charger for your phone.

Making a portable charger

How to charge a phone if there are batteries, a compartment for them, for them or an old mobile phone and a USB extension cable?

Batteries must be AA type. In addition, a soldering iron and a tester must be available.

We take 4 batteries (preferably high capacity) and insert them into the compartment for them. We measure the voltage with a tester, it should be at least 5 volts. This is due to the fact that modern phones can be charged from a USB connector, in which the voltage is 5 V.

From the USB extension cable, which is not a pity to use, we cut off the plug that connects to the computer. We study the pinout of the contacts, call the tester. We find + and -, remove the remaining wires with wire cutters and isolate.

We put a thermocambric on the wires and process it with a lighter to ensure a tight entrance. We make a fitting at the place where the plug is attached.

We will need to solder the wires to the metal rivets. For this purpose, soldering acid is used, which can be applied with a tin stick, after which we tin the rivets.

Solder the wires according to their charge.

The connector must be glued to the body, having previously degreased or scraped off the connector and plastic with a knife.

We apply heated glue to the body and press it. Coat with glue around, closing open contacts. The remaining unnecessary wires are bitten off and smeared with glue. If necessary, it can be masked with a marker.

Insert batteries. They must be of the same capacity. At the same time, their total capacity must exceed that of a telephone battery.

Making a charging cable

After making the charging itself, the question "How to make charging for the phone?" cannot be removed because the cable still needs to be made.

We cut off the small connector of the USB cable, the length of the cable should be half a meter.

We cut the wires in the same way. + and - have already been identified, you can not repeat. We bite off the remaining wires, after which we place them in a thermocambric, clean it, tin it.

Batteries can be charged in different designed for them. In most cases, mobile phone chargers can also be used.

You can not complicate your life, but charge the batteries in the appropriate chargers.

Checking the charge

We insert the charged batteries into the booster, to which we connect the USB cable on one side, and on the other side we connect it to the phone and check the charging.

After a while, the voltage on the booster may drop, so it is better to use batteries with a larger capacity.

Thus, we figured out how to make charging for the phone with your own hands.

Wireless charger

Extension cords may stop charging the phone, they may fray, the charging socket in the phone may become loose. All this necessitates wireless charging. How to make wireless charging for your phone, consider below.

The principle of wireless charging is based on the fact that a coil is built into the charger, which creates a magnetic field, under the cover of the phone there is another coil that serves as a receiver. When the receiver is in range of the conductor, electromagnetic pulses are activated. Through rectifiers and capacitors, the battery of the phone is affected.

But before you make your choice in favor of wireless charging, you need to consider that it has a number of negative qualities:

  • there is no reliable data on the effects on the human body;
  • energy transmission is inefficient;
  • full battery charge is restored in a longer period of time compared to wired charging;
  • battery capacity may be reduced;
  • If not installed correctly, the battery may overheat and wear out prematurely.

Let's figure out how to make wireless phone charging.

This requires several meters of thin copper wire. We wind the conductor into a coil with a number of turns equal to 15. To maintain the shape, we fix the spiral with double-sided tape or glue. We leave a few centimeters of wire for soldering. The connection to the charging socket is made using a capacitor and a pulse diode, which are attached to opposite ends.

The size of one turn on the conductor should be 1.5 cm. After twisting, the diameter of the resulting coil is 10 cm.

An even thinner copper wire in the amount of 30 turns is used to form the transmitter. The circuit is closed by a capacitor and a transistor. We place this device in the zone of the transmitting ring up with the display.

Finally

Thus, the question of how to charge a phone has several answers. Charging can be portable from batteries, or maybe wireless. In any case, a person who understands electricity should do it, otherwise you can run into problems.

Hello dear friends!

Today I will tell you how to make a "Portable USB Charger" with your own hands.

For this we need:

1. USB car charger in the cigarette lighter.

2. Four wires.

3. Small on/off switch. I took it from an old table lamp. But it turned out to be not practical and I replaced it with a light switch.

4. Three rechargeable batteries "Krona".

5. A box of "Fort" coffee, or something else. You need either iron or plastic.

6. Glue gun.

And so: We take our car USB charging into the cigarette lighter, disassemble it, take out the board. This is the most important part of our portable charger. On one side of this board you will see a spring and a small piece of iron plate. A spring in the middle is always a plus, and an iron plate on the side is always a minus. The spring can be simply soldered to the board or to the wiring and the wiring is already to the board. It’s the same with this piece of iron on the side .. If the spring is soldered to the board, then we carefully unsolder it and solder the wires in its place. Then the same with this piece of iron. If the spring is soldered to the wiring, then simply unsolder the spring from the wiring. It is the same with this piece of iron. After we soldered the wires to the board, we debug it to the side for now. We proceed to the manufacture of the clamp that we need to connect the battery. The finished clamp can be removed from old children's toys or from anything where a "Kron" type battery was lured. Or you can make it yourself. To do this, we take one "Kron" battery, remove the flower from it, turn it over, take a flux for soldering, moka a cotton swab in it and degrease the contacts. Then we take the wires and solder them to the contacts. After soldering, we take a glue gun and apply glue to the place where the wires were soldered. So we just make isolation. Then we take our clamp and connect a battery to it. We do this in order to make sure where we have a plus and where a minus. When we are convinced where the plus is and where the minus is, we take our board to which we soldered the wires instead of the spring with the piece of iron, and twist the wires minus with the minus and carefully isolate the wires that we twisted with electrical tape. And plus we will let through the switch. To do this, we take our switch, it has two contacts, to one we solder the wires that come from our board, and to the other we solder the wires that come from the terminal. Now our charger is almost ready. It remains only to put it all in the case.
To do this, we take our box in my case, this is the box "First Aid Kit ARM" for repairing pneumatic tires .. We make a hole for USB.
Then we make a hole for our switch.

Now we take our insides. And this is our board, switch, and terminal. And we install it all inside the box. We fix the board to the bottom of the box with a glue gun, just like our switch. We also attach it to the box with a glue gun.
Now we connect our battery, close the box. We connect the phone, turn on the charger and our phone is charging. P.S The input power of car USB chargers to the cigarette lighter is only 12V, so in no case do not connect it to power sources over 12V, in which case it will simply burn out. The power of the "Kron" battery that I used for this portable charger is only 9V, this is quite enough to charge a phone, iPhone, camera, tablet, etc. Approximately 2-3 times depending on the power of your battery .. after which you have to change the battery. I have a 3000 mAh battery in my phone, so the "Kron" batteries are enough to maintain the battery charge and not fully charge it. Therefore, I replaced the Kron battery with a 12V battery, which is quite enough to charge the phone. To do this, we simply make 2 terminals from Kron batteries, solder one of them to the battery and simply connect everything to our portable charger. But in order not to buy a new battery every time, I would advise you to purchase a Kron battery charger and when you have one battery running out, you put it on charge and put the other in your portable charger. Or you can make a charger for Kron batteries with your own hands. But as? I will tell you about this in the next issue. Until then, all the best. If you have any questions write to my mailbox.

The mobile phone charger has become one of the most necessary technological little things in our lives. After all, without it, our mobile phone will be just a lifeless box. But when it broke down, the phone sat down, and you are waiting for an important call, you will have to experiment and try to do the charging yourself.

The first design of the charger involves the use of a computer USB connector or a power adapter connected to a power outlet. So, first you need an old flash drive, from which you need to get the plug, just be careful not to break the board on it. Next, take a piece of a two-core cable, strip the contacts on one side and start heating the soldering iron. Now let's study the circuit that was soldered along with the plug. On it you will see four contacts, the central ones are responsible for transferring data from the computer to the memory chips of the flash drive, they do not interest us. But the side ones are responsible for the power supply, and the cable that we have prepared should be carefully soldered to them. Just do not use acid to improve soldering, as the contacts are quite delicate and after a while they can deteriorate.


On the second side, we solder the plug from the old charge, and one of the wires should be isolated: if they suddenly touch when assembled, a short circuit, due to which the phone can burn out, will not happen. After ringing the design with a tester, attach one probe to the charging plug, and bring the second one in turn to each contact on the USB. Now wrap both ends with electrical tape - and you can charge the phone.


And if you are a fan of hiking or just spend a lot of time on the road, you can make a portable charger. Of course, it will be inferior in performance to the purchased counterpart, but it will cost you many times cheaper. To make such a device, you will need four AA batteries, electrical tape, a two-ohm resistor, a plug with a cable from an old telephone charger.


Next, connect all the batteries together in series, that is, the plus should touch the minus, then wrap it with electrical tape so that the improvised “battery” holds, and for ease of connection, you can use a plastic box. Now you need to test this design for the presence of current, for this, take two wires, connect one to the plus and the second to the minus and try it on the tongue. You should feel a slight tingle, as if you were licking the contacts of a crown battery. If everything worked out, take a two ohm resistor and solder it to the plus of our power source.


Then you need to deal with the cable from the original charger. Inside you can see the two going, and they should be soldered plus to the free end of the resistor, and the second to the minus of the battery. That's it, you can already charge your phone, but first watch the charging process for a few minutes, if this design heats up quickly, then you have reversed the polarity in the cable wires, and they need to be swapped.


Of course, these options are only suitable for simple phones like Nokia, since for the iPhone, new Samsung models and the like, charging is much more complicated in design.

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