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Joint planting of vegetables: good and bad neighbors in the garden. Mixed plantings: what can be planted with what on the same bed Joint planting of vegetables in the garden examples table

Landing vegetable crops and trees, their features are taken into account - plant growth in the sun or in the shade, abundant or moderate watering, differences in root systems. However, not everyone knows that when planting crops in the garden, their compatibility with each other should be taken into account. Summer residents who grow vegetables know that productivity depends not only on favorable conditions and care for plants, but also on their location in the beds. Adhering to the rules of compatibility of garden crops, even beginners will be able to rationally use land plot and get a good harvest.

If the neighbors in the garden are chosen incorrectly, this can cause poor growth and development of crops, accumulation of insects and the formation of fungus due to excessive watering. The correct placement of plants in the beds, on the contrary, has a beneficial effect on their growth, and also makes them more resistant to disease.

The principle of mixed beds is used by farmers and hobbyists who grow organic vegetables, fruits and berries, since the correct compatibility of vegetables during planting helps to repel pests, and there is no need to use chemicals. Properly selected neighborhood and rational use garden plot allow you to increase productivity up to 20%.

Mixed landings are not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. Before proceeding with sowing, the plants must be divided into groups, taking into account the intensity of watering and lighting, the need for fertilizer. It is recommended to draw up a site plan with the distribution of plants. Adhering to the rules of compatibility of vegetables, the gardener will receive the following benefits:

  • saving land area;
  • reduction in the incidence of disease;
  • plants attract less harmful insects;
  • applying less fertilizer;
  • increase in yield and taste of fruits.

Rules and table of compatibility of vegetables with other crops in the garden

When planning a scheme for the joint planting of vegetables, herbs, flowers, shrubs and trees, it is possible not only to increase the yield and quality of fruits, but also to create beautiful garden. When distributing crops in the neighborhood, the following rules must be taken into account:

  • "neighbors" should have similar requirements for light and moisture, acidity and soil structure, as well as the same rate of development and fruit ripening period;
  • it is unacceptable that the width of the beds be less than 1 meter;
  • the garden is divided into several sections (in the middle part tall plants are planted, the fruits of which ripen the longest - tomatoes, peppers, cabbage);
  • closer to the borders, early-ripening plant species are placed - most often these are greens and herbs, this place is also suitable for grapes and strawberries;
  • in order for the soil to remain fertile, it is important to observe the crop rotation rule (planting plants several times in a row on the same soil is unacceptable);
  • the correct neighborhood provides for the distribution of vegetables in the beds, taking into account their root system, the most best option- when cultures with small and more developed roots alternate.

A table will help you plan what and where to plant, taking into account the compatibility of plants. The table shows the most common vegetables.

Vegetable good compatibility Poor Compatibility
eggplantPeas, potatoesOnions, tomatoes, fennel, garlic
PeasEggplants, potatoes, corn, cucumbers, carrots, radishes, beansOnions, garlic, tomatoes
DaikonZucchini, carrots, cucumbers, tomatoes, beets, spinach, pumpkinPeas, strawberries, cabbage
CabbagePotato, onion, lettuce, beetroot, celery, dillStrawberries, beans
PotatoEggplant, peas, cabbage, onion, corn, parsley, lettuce, beets, horseradish, beans, garlic, radishCucumbers, tomatoes, celery, fennel
OnionBlack currants, garden strawberries, carrots, radishes, cucumbers, watercress, spinachBeans, peas, beans, cabbage
CarrotPeas, onions, tomatoesFennel
cucumbersPeas, dill, beans, lettuce, cabbagePotatoes, tomatoes
PepperOnions, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, basil, eggplantPeas, cucumbers, celery, beans
ParsleyOnions, lettuce, peas, beans, tomatoes, radishes, beansCarrots, beets, celery, horseradish
tomatoesGreen crops, cabbage, onions, gooseberries, asparagus, beansPotatoes, kohlrabi, cucumbers, fennel
SaladCabbage, garden strawberry, carrots, cucumbers, onions, radishes, spinach, peasTomatoes, pumpkin, beans, beets
BeetCabbage, onion, lettuce, beansFennel

With fruit and other trees

Planting shrubs, berries and vegetables in the aisles of a young garden is not recommended. This is due to the fact that plants, and especially cultures from the nightshade family, take all useful material from the soil.

If the trees have long been rooted and delight the owners with their fruits, you can sow the seeds of parsley, cilantro, dill, radish and lettuce under them. These cultures do not harm their neighbors and ripen in the shortest possible time, in addition, in the shade, the greens remain juicy for a long time.

You can also choose perennials- strawberries, wild garlic, dzhusai, mustard, mint, lemon balm.

In the middle of summer, seeds of Beijing cabbage, radish and radish are sown in the shade of trees. Beans feel good under the crown of a tree. Thanks to it, the soil is enriched with nitrogen, which in turn improves yields.

Under old trees, some gardeners successfully grow cucumbers, lagenaria, pumpkins and zucchini. Plants curl beautifully along the trunk, and thanks to the fertile soil they give a good harvest.

Regarding tomatoes, the opinions of experts differ - some believe that the plant will stretch due to insufficient lighting, others say the opposite, having gathered a good harvest under a tree. Gardeners also assure that planting is mutually beneficial for both tomatoes and fruit trees, since the latter are protected from the codling moth, and tomatoes are less likely to get late blight.

Wanting to decorate the garden with roses, you should know that planting them next to a plum, pear and apple tree is not recommended. Under walnut greens and vegetables will grow poorly. It is also worth considering that tomatoes and potatoes are bad neighbors for apricots.

With flowers and herbs

Vegetables are not very fond of being next to marigolds, while being close to marigolds is favorable. They protect plants from nematodes and make the beds beautiful. Calendula improves the quality of the soil, and pests are afraid of it. Both plants are planted near cucumbers, carrots and potatoes. It is best to sow marigolds and zinnia near tomatoes.

From aphids, whites and snails, nasturtiums will help. Flowers are sown between rows or arbitrarily close to garden crops. Daffodils and tulips are planted near carrots.

Herbs such as chamomile, tansy, yarrow and wormwood protect plants from pests. Gardeners love nasturtium because it resists pests and weeds, and also pleases with its beauty until late autumn. In addition, it can be eaten by adding it to salads. Best of all, she gets along with potatoes and cabbage. Garlic planted with roses repels beetles.

Also edible plants include borage, or borage. It repels pests, loosens the ground, removes excess moisture and blooms very beautifully throughout the summer, attracting pollinating insects.

with bushes

In the garden near the shrubs, you can sow greens. Gooseberries, raspberries and other berry bushes do well near fruit trees, provided that they do not shade them too much.

The combined plantings of raspberries and bush beans are characterized by a mutual beneficial effect, but the plants will not like the neighborhood of raspberries and blackberries. To protect the bushes from the codling moth, sow tarragon or tarragon.

It is recommended to sow lupins, hyssop, onions, garlic near grapes, but planting cabbage and hazelnuts leads to the death of a young vine. Near it you can place currants, raspberries, radishes, legumes, beets, cucumbers. It should be borne in mind that grapes planted near the garden with berries have a special taste. The most favorable is its proximity to strawberries - so the grapes are large and sweet.

Gooseberries get along well with red currants, they do not compete for space and do not attract common pests. You can also plant lemon balm, mint, basil and sage with gooseberries - herbs repel sawfly, aphids and moths. For the same purpose, tomatoes are planted near the gooseberries. An unfavorable neighbor is onions. Raspberries and gooseberries can be planted under a plum tree.

  • eggplants are best placed near onions, beans, spinach, thyme;
  • it is better to plant onions, herbs, tomatoes, carrots, kohlrabi, zucchini near hot peppers;
  • strawberries and parsley located nearby feel good;
  • cucumbers are friends with most plants, especially beans, zucchini, celery, garlic, onions, spinach;
  • the legume family gets along well with peas, parsley, cucumbers, corn, potatoes;
  • beets grow well near strawberries and onions;
  • carrots are advised to plant in the garden with onions, garlic, radishes;
  • cabbage gets along on the same bed with celery, dill, rosemary, beans;
  • near strawberries, it is better to plant sorrel, carrots, lettuce, radishes, radishes, spinach;
  • it is better to plant garlic next to celery, carrots, roses, gladioli;
  • sweet peppers are planted on the same bed with basil, okra, beets, fennel;
  • tomatoes prefer to grow separately, and not together with other vegetables, but not against the neighborhood with onions, beets, corn;
  • pumpkin gets along with legumes, radishes;
  • loves potatoes if nasturtium, marigolds, beans, cilantro are located nearby;
  • excellent companions for onions are carrots, beets and all types of melons.

Examples of successful plant combinations

When drawing up a plan of beds, taking into account the principle of joint planting of vegetable crops, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the options for successful combinations. Examples of good neighborliness with good fertility and a minimum incidence rate:

  • alternating pumpkin, corn, legumes and nasturtium;
  • a bed of radishes, lettuce, kohlrabi, spinach, early potatoes;
  • alternating rows of carrots, parsley, dill;
  • plot with legumes, tomatoes, cilantro, carrots, marigolds;
  • a bed of cucumbers, basil and tomatoes;
  • rows of potatoes, cabbage, spinach, beans, corn.

What plants in the garden and garden are better not to plant next to each other?

Improper placement of vegetables and trees can cause reduced yields or attract insects. In order not to be mistaken, gardeners are advised to familiarize themselves with crops that are poorly combined with each other:

  • green onions should not be planted next to garlic;
  • near cucumbers, you should not plant turnips, tomatoes, asparagus, rhubarb, zucchini;
  • garlic should not be planted near peas, beans, soybeans, peanuts;
  • for gooseberries, blackcurrant is a bad companion;
  • juniper, cherry cannot be placed together with a pear;
  • mint, basil and cilantro are bad for the growth of garlic;
  • it is not recommended to plant apricots, lilacs, cherries, cherries, barberries next to the apple tree;
  • cherry feels bad near currants;
  • raspberries and strawberries planted nearby become a favorable environment for weevils.

While gardening and horticulture, many farmers are faced with the problem of lack of space, as well as sometimes inexplicable incompatibilities between different plants. Which leads, in turn, to a decrease in yield and various diseases that impair plant growth and the quality of the resulting fruits. Mixed plantings of vegetables, the schemes of which are drawn up taking into account all the features, can solve many problems.

The science of mixed landings

Allelopathy is a science that studies the influence on each other and the ability of them to coexist together. The proximity of vegetables in the greenhouse and mixed plantings are determined taking into account the influencing factors. Each plant excretes through leaves and roots various substances, which, when released into the soil, can both be absorbed by other plants and harm them.

Some species tend to stimulate the growth of related plantings and have a protective effect on them from pests, but at the same time they can also oppress. In addition to the obvious, there is another reason to create mixed landings - this is space saving.

Schemes of mixed and compacted plantings of vegetables

It is very important, when making a plan for future landings, to consider:

  1. Climatic conditions in a given area may vary, as some places are drier, while others are more humid. The impact of wind, precipitation and frost must also be taken into account in the calculations.
  2. It is necessary to know the characteristics of each specific site, its soil composition, the impact of sunlight on this area, as well as its protection from the aggressive effects of nature.

Planning

These parameters should form the basis of a vegetable garden planting strategy to obtain the highest score from every square meter. Drawing up a plan begins with a study of the characteristics of the site and the features of each individual meter of land. Mixed schemes (planting vegetables in the garden, as you know, are different for their intended purpose) beds must be made taking into account all the climatic and agrotechnical parameters of the soil.

Advantages of the method

Benefits of mixed landings:


Competent combination

Rotation of crops with different requirements to the nutrition and composition of the soil allows you to avoid partial or complete depletion of the land and the destruction of any individual elements nutrition needed by plants.

Joint planting of vegetables can improve the quality of life of neighboring crops, and can also affect the taste and nutritional value of fruits.

Basic and accompanying plants

Mixed plantings of vegetables, their arrangement and the principles that guide the gardener in their preparation are based on simple knowledge. In the practice of this method, there are such concepts as a companion plant, or accompanying, as well as the main culture. The main plant is the target plant, and the satellite plant is used to fill gaps and produce large yields.

Mixed Landing Tactics

In the role of accompanying plants, fragrant green fertilizers are more often used, a number of which can benefit their neighbors. The main crops are usually vegetables and are slow-ripening, small-sized specimens, in between which are fast-ripening species.

This tactic is very effective. While the main culture is slowly growing and developing, the accompanying one has time to grow, making room for the main one to develop sufficiently. This is the main principle of drawing up a plan and scheme of mixed landings.

Preferred neighborhood

In order to organically fit into your plan various mixed plantings of vegetables, their location on the site, you need to know the properties of each plant and its compatibility with others. The properties inherent in individual garden crops are conveniently viewed in the form of a table. Mixed plantings of vegetables in the garden are necessarily compiled taking into account the needs of each crop.

Proper Neighbor Table

Name of culture good neighborhood Unwanted neighborhoods about
BasilAll crops, especially tomatoes and lettuceRuta
eggplantBeans, thyme-
beansCucumbers, potatoes, spinach, corn, radishes, buckwheat and mustard. If beans act as the main plants, then for them good neighbors will be lavender, rosemary, yarrow, oregano, borageAny and garlic, wormwood, marigolds
GrapeCorn, potatoes, radish, beans, radishes, ryeOnions, soybeans, barley, cabbage
PeasIt gets along well with carrots, rice, various salads, cucumbers, turnipsOnions, garlic, tomatoes
Cabbage

All varieties are excellent neighbors for bush beans, salads, buckwheat, celery, beets, borage, carrots, spinach.
To protect the cabbage from harmful insects, next to it, various direct odorous plants are planted: dill, sage, mint, rosemary, thyme, nasturtium, marigolds

Doesn't mix well with grapes and strawberries
Potato

Gets along with legumes, cabbage, radish and various salads. An assistant to potatoes in scaring away pests will be: tansy, marigolds, nasturtium, coriander

It is highly not recommended to plant sunflower and celery next to each other.
Strawberry

It is good to plant spinach, sage, parsley nearby. Especially favorable mutual influence with beans, cucumbers, pumpkin, peas, soybeans

Cabbage
CornAll culturesBeets, celery
OnionThe best neighborhood with beets, strawberries, cucumbers, carrots, lettuce, spinachBeans, peas, legumes, sage
Carrot

Peas. Loyal to the neighborhood with potatoes, onions, lettuce

Dill, fennel. Also, there is no place for her under the apple tree, as the root crops will be very bitter.

cucumbersGood companions for beans, beans, beets, garlic, onions, radishes, spinach, as well as dill and chamomileUndesirable neighborhood with tomatoes, since their conditions are very different
PepperBasil

Difficult to get along with beans. Bad neighbor for him and fennel

ParsleyPairs well with strawberries, peas, tomatoes, asparagus, salads-
Radish

Salads, beans. Planting radish can be combined with tomatoes, onions, parsley, garlic, strawberries and peas

Planting next to hyssop is highly discouraged, as this gives great bitterness to the fruits.
TurnipPairs well with peasCompletely incompatible with mustard and asparagus
Beet

It is an excellent companion for cabbage, radish, radish and lettuce. Next to the beets, you can also place beds with garlic, strawberries, celery, cucumbers

-
Celery

White cabbage. Feels great next to cucumbers and tomatoes, soybeans, beans and peas

Extremely undesirable neighborhood with corn, parsley, potatoes and carrots
tomatoes

They pair well with basil, celery, parsley, spinach and beans. Neutral in their influence planting next to cabbage, corn, garlic, carrots, beets

Cannot be placed next to kohlrabi cabbage, fennel and dill, potatoes, eggplant
Pumpkin

Responsive neighbor for peas and beans. Favorably coexists with corn

Next to cabbage, cucumbers, salads, onions, carrots
BeansFriendly with almost all culturesOnion, fennel, garlic, peas
SpinachAll cultures-
GarlicFriendly neighborhood with tomatoes, beets, strawberries, carrots, cucumbersNegatively affects the taste of peas, beans, cabbage

Today you learned about what mixed planting of vegetables is. Schemes for their compilation are created taking into account the preferences of each individual plant, as well as the conditions of its maintenance, which should be the basis for calculating future beds. There are many advantages to using this progressive method, which are especially important to take advantage of when trying to get the maximum benefit and large yields from every square meter of area.

Of course, you have often thought about how best to use the area in the garden, how to compact vegetables on them. What cultures are compatible? How to organize a conveyor in the garden? All these issues can be solved by using mixed plantings of vegetables, the schemes of which are given below.

Repeated and compact crops of vegetable crops

Compacted crops of vegetable crops have been used since antiquity. So the useful area is used more intensively, because in the garden it is the most fertile and loose. There we do not spare mulch, we water with all kinds of weed infusions, and of course, we enrich the soil with compost and green manure.

combined planting of vegetable crops - beans, cabbage, corn

Compacted landings are very often used in practice. natural farming. After all, green manure and organic mulch not only fertilize the soil, but also heal the microflora - there are no pronounced diseases and pests. One of the conditions that must be taken into account when compacting crops is the features of the vegetative development of combined crops. In a short growing season (30-45 days), such crops as dill, lettuce, spinach, radish, arugula, and onions manage to grow. Watercress grows even faster.

The average development period for crops such as early cabbage, garlic, turnip onions - they leave the garden by the end of July-beginning of August. Autumn collection period for vegetables such as late cabbage, carrots, table beets. Well, tomatoes, peppers and eggplants leave the garden late.

mixed landings are sometimes very expressive

Repeated crops of vegetable crops mainly refer to crops with a short and less often medium vegetation. So, after leaving the lettuce garden, grown cabbage can be planted in its place. By this time, she will no longer interfere with the previously planted cucumbers, which will climb the trellis. And after harvesting the garlic, you can plant Chinese cabbage in its place. This is an early ripening culture, and before frost, you can constantly pick juicy leaves from it for fresh salads.

Plant compatibility

Combined planting of vegetables is very effective if matched to the main crops good companions. After all, plants can oppress each other, or vice versa, stimulate growth, development, and even protection from pests. It has been noticed that when potatoes are compacted with beans, the harm from the Colorado potato beetle is significantly reduced. And compacting cabbage with marigolds reduces the risk of an attack by a white butterfly. But here, too, a reasonable balance must be struck. a large number of marigolds will not help cabbage, but oppress it.

The property of isolating organic compounds that inhibit or suppress the development of others is called the allelopathy effect. But no matter how they try to study and systematize this phenomenon, it is impossible to obtain reliable data - too many factors affect the plant during the growing season. All sites are different: temperature, humidity, lighting, predominance of winds, soil composition, and so on. Therefore, successful combinations in some conditions may “work” in a completely different way in others. But that's no reason to ignore someone's success, right? It is necessary to take such decisions into account and adjust the "combination" already in their beds.

When placing plants in the garden, you can take into account not only the compatibility of vegetables with each other, but also intersperse decorative and spicy herbs. Then the garden will become not only useful, but also beautiful. The plant compatibility tested in practice in our conditions of Kazakhstan during planting (Table 1) has so far collected little data. But they are all successful.

Table 1

peas

eggplant, corn, calendula, cucumber, carrot

strawberry

lettuce, marigolds, beans, garlic, spinach

cabbage

onions, beets, celery, dill, marigolds

kohlrabi

onion, lettuce, beetroot, cucumber

onion

carrot, beetroot, tomato, celery, savory

carrot

peas, onion, lettuce, tomato, sage

cucumber

peas, radishes, beans, cabbage, peppers

pepper

cucumber, lettuce, beans

salad

carrot, cucumber, radish, strawberry

tomato

parsley, beans, calendula, nasturtium, basil

beans

eggplant, tomatoes, potatoes, strawberries, cucumber

Do not get along with each other potatoes and cucumbers, beans and onions, strawberries and cabbage. Carrots "do not like" all umbrella plants - dill, celery, parsley. Fennel is generally harmful, and it is better to plant it in tubs. Hyssop, too, better find a place in the backyard.

Mixed planting vegetables in the garden

Almost schoolchildren know about the successful "duet" of carrots and onions. A separately planted onion from 1 sq.m in our conditions gives about 2.5 kg, and carrots about 6 kg from the same area. And when they grow together, we collect 9 kg of vegetables from the same area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden! They protect each other from pests, so the efficiency of using the area is doubled.

And of course, mixed plantings in the garden need to be grouped taking into account the height of the plants, to ensure the tiered plantings. And also observe the growth - they grow in different ways, some quickly gain green mass, others slowly. Compactors are best planted smaller in height than the main crops. Layering creates favorable conditions for roots, and generally better use of solar energy.

Mixed planting vegetables: schemes

It is advisable to place combined plantings of vegetable crops on stationary beds. The soil in them is not dug up every season, its structure improves annually due to the death of the roots of vegetables, flowers and green manure. Different crops and crop rotation reduce soil fatigue, and working in such beds is much easier than in a traditional vegetable garden. Here are proven schemes for mixed planting vegetables:

planting scheme (cabbage and beets)

  1. The scheme combines the planting of late cabbage and beets. Inside a square of 80 × 80 cm, seedlings of 4 cabbage bushes and 9 beet plants are planted. A handful of ground eggshell and a glass of compost. The beets are harvested in September. The yield is 3-3.2 kg per sq.m. Heads of cabbage taken in October increase power to 10.5-10.8 kg on average. The total weight is about 14 kg, not bad?
  2. The scheme of the combined planting of tomatoes and beans. The distance between plants in a row is 30 cm. A line is mounted along the rows of bush beans. drip irrigation, and beans are planted near each dropper. Tomatoes are placed in the center of the bed in a checkerboard pattern with beans (between the droppers so that there is no excess moisture). A stationary trellis is omitted along the middle line of the beds. Beans in our conditions gives 2 crops and on average gives 1.6-1.8 kg per 1 sq.m, medium-sized tomatoes - 4-4.5 kg. We do not cut the bean bushes for the winter, but we remove the stems of the tomato bushes, cutting them low.

planting scheme for tomatoes and bush beans

And finally, a small lesson from Galina Ivanovna Kizima, who skillfully uses compacted plantings of vegetables (video):

Mixed plantings of vegetables, the schemes of which you saw here, in no case cancel the crop rotation in the beds. If, for example, you plant beets in the same place, then on next year get root crops the size of "gulkin's nose." But this is the topic of the next publications, so stay with us and subscribe to the announcements of articles.

Joint planting of vegetables is practiced by many well-known agronomists throughout Russia. This technology allows, by planting together different types garden crops, to get huge yields even from the smallest plots.

In this article, we will cover:

  • Why do joint planting of vegetables.
  • How to make joint plantings in the garden.
  • Which plants are compatible with each other.
  • Examples of joint landings.

Why do joint landings

Planting vegetables together (or compacted plantings) is one of my favorite lazy gardening techniques. It makes no sense to look after a garden of ten acres when the same crop can be grown on two. In addition, joint planting of two or more crops on the same bed can really increase the yield; the main thing is to choose the right cultures.

In the article about the smart garden, we talked about how to make smart beds and how to arrange them in the garden. But experienced amateur vegetable growers also use the ability of plants to influence each other in their work.

Any plant through the leaves and roots releases substances that can harm neighbors or help them; or hurt and help at the same time. So, a plant can scare away a pest from a neighbor, but at the same time inhibit its growth.

Leaves (especially aromatic crops) can release either volatile substances or substances soluble in water, which return to the soil during irrigation or rain.

The roots simply release biologically active compounds into the soil, which are absorbed by the roots of neighboring plants.

How do plants influence each other?

    Tall plants can be planted together with lower ones - they will create the necessary shade and protect from the wind.

    All legumes are able to accumulate nitrogen in the nodules, which they absorb from the air. They not only do not take nitrogen from the soil, but also share their own accumulations with their neighbors, releasing it from nodules in a form that is easily digestible by other plants.

    Substances released from the roots and leaves of some plants can repel pests from others, or knock them off the trail with their strong odor.

Alevtinka Member of FORUMHOUSE

The main thing is to confuse the pest, it flies by the smell.

4. The smell of carrots will scare away the onion fly, and the spider mite will think three times before attacking carrots, onions are planted next to the bark. Cruciferous fleas cannot stand the smell of garlic, etc.

5. The most delicious, large, non-bitter, pure radish grows on the same bed with bush beans. In such plantings, beans are sown two weeks later than radishes.

Why plants may be incompatible

In the world of plants, cooperation and mutual assistance can be found more often than enmity. But leaf and root secretions of some plants can still inhibit the growth of others. Orchard crops can also compete for sun, moisture, nutrients in the soil and overwhelm each other. All this must be taken into account when planting plants together or on adjacent beds.

When planting two crops on the same bed, it should be remembered that one of them should be the main one, and the second - a compactor or accompanying crop. It is planted to thicken, fill gaps. In this photo from the album of a FORUMHOUSE user with the nickname Gardener the main crop is carrots, and the accompanying one is garlic.

Gardener

The principle of combining crops on a narrow ridge. Garlic (onions) will protect carrots from carrot flies.

Table of compatibility of garden plants in a thickened planting

Tables of joint plantings can help the gardener with the selection of plants. .

The main crops in joint plantings are vegetables with a long ripening period. Spicy herbs and marigolds are planted between them (this plant copes with many pests).

Gardener

Plant marigolds throughout the garden. In autumn, their stems are embedded in the soil - to scare away soil insect pests and prevent hibernating beetles (for example, the Colorado potato beetle) from penetrating the soil. Wireworm and aphids cannot stand the smell of marigolds.

Also, the accompanying crop can be early-ripening varieties of vegetables. Early maturing varieties ripen, they are harvested, and the main crop gets more space, sun and nutrition for its development.

In the photo above, we see the joint planting of cabbage on the "smart beds" of the famous agronomist Igor Lyadov.

Gardener

Cabbage is planted in a checkerboard pattern, late and early alternate. When the early one is eaten, the later one scatters leaves in the vacant place.

Joint planting patterns

We offer you several well-functioning joint planting schemes for popular garden crops.

Joint planting of cucumber with dill: on a narrow bed, cucumbers are sown in two rows, every 60 cm. Dill is sown between the cucumbers and along the edges of the bed. Plants mutually increase each other's productivity, dill grows just in time for pickling cucumbers.

Joint planting of onions with carrots, radishes and parsley: very good scheme, at which onions are first sown - 5 rows every 15 cm, several radish seeds are sown in each row of onions. A row of carrots, a row of parsley, another row of carrots, and another row of parsley are sown in the aisles of onions. Radishes are harvested first, then onions. Carrots and parsley with this planting scheme in early summer receive protection from pests, and in the second half of summer - the opportunity to develop good root crops.

Quail

I removed the onion, and there was more space and light for the carrots.

Joint planting of beets and lettuce. Seedlings of any lettuce are planted in rows after 30 cm, when it takes root, beet seedlings are planted (the distance between beet plants in a row is 15 cm). Lettuce is harvested after 30-40 cm, beet roots develop to full maturity.

In all these schemes, the principle of complementarity of crops in joint plantings is clearly visible: plants have a beneficial effect on the growth and development of each other, protect against pests and do not compete for nutrients.

A culture that needs more nutrients, always placed in the middle of the beds, additional culture - at the edges.

The compatibility of vegetables in the garden is a much more important issue than it might seem at first glance. Among plants, as among people, there are friends and enemies. The quality of the crop, and in general the vital activity of certain plants, may depend on the knowledge of these nuances. Let's take a closer look at what to plant next to what.

mixed landings

The problems of the interaction of plants in the garden are dealt with by a special science - allelopathy. Any plant releases into the soil and air a variety of substances that positively or negatively affect the "neighbors". The useful and harmful neighborhood of vegetables in the beds is presented in the table below. In the meantime, consider the advantages of mixed planting technology:

space is saved in the garden; the soil is less depleted, there is no need for an annual crop rotation; less effort is required to treat pests, since some plants themselves scare them away; when vegetables are planted together in the beds, additional fertilizers are almost not required; crop quality and taste are growing fruits (for example, beans can make radishes tastier, and mint can make white cabbage), as well as the amount of vitamins and sugars in them.

Rules to be followed when organizing combined planting of vegetable crops:

    The width of each bed must exceed a meter. This will be necessary in the future for the convenience of caring for plants. The bed is divided into several sections. Such crops are planted in the central one, which grow and ripen for a long time. These are peppers, cabbage, tomatoes. When the season comes, they will already occupy a good half of the ridge. Those types of crops that ripen quickly are planted from the edges. Mostly greens, but also strawberries and grapes.

An example of a properly organized garden bed for joint plantings:

Lettuce grows on the edge, in the second row - carrots or radishes, alternating with marjoram, in the third - onions. The 4th and 5th row correspond to the 1st and 2nd. Cucumbers are planted in the middle.

You can come up with a lot of similar schemes, it all depends on the necessary plants and on your attentiveness in matters of their combination.

The neighborhood of vegetables in the beds

Good neighbors are radishes, beans, lettuce, mint, dill, spinach. But tomatoes and cucumbers do not combine at all, because they require different amounts of moisture. Tomatoes also need a lot of fresh air, and cucumbers prefer the greenhouse effect. In general, tomatoes are not combined with almost any of the garden crops. The exceptions are radishes, asparagus, garlic, parsley.

But basil is almost universal and can benefit any plant.

Cabbage is not recommended to be planted next to beets, carrots, beans, and pumpkin will not be happy with potatoes. It is better to plant it with relatives - zucchini, squash or melons. Otherwise, the harvest will be much worse.

Useful neighbors of beets are cabbage, zucchini, legumes.

Peas go well with corn, lettuce and cabbage, but it doesn’t feel good if its neighbors in the garden are zucchini, onions, and beans.

Ideal neighbors of dill are potatoes and parsley, cucumbers are eggplant, onion, lettuce.

Potatoes are usually planted separately, away from other crops. But it should be noted that horseradish will help protect it from bedbugs, and beans / peas or other legumes will saturate the earth with nitrogen, which will positively affect the quantity and quality of the crop. They also repel Colorado potato beetles.

Every plant needs pollinators, here's why good decision will plant flowers next to vegetables. In addition to flowers, marjoram, mint, lemon balm are attractive to pollinating insects. These herbs will always come in handy on the farm for culinary or medicinal purposes, and at the same time the yield of your vegetable crops will increase significantly. In addition, they wonderfully decorate the summer cottage.

Another important point: the presence of earthworms in the soil. They loosen the soil, which increases the amount of oxygen in it. Worms are attracted to crops such as onion, valerian, chicory.

Spinach - very convenient option for joint plantings, because it releases a lot of saponin into the soil - a substance that promotes root growth and improves access to water and nutrients. Different types of primrose have the same property.

Table of compatibility of vegetables in the beds

More detailed data can be found in the following tables:

Examples of bad neighborhood not included in the tables

When organizing joint plantings of vegetables in the garden, make sure that the gooseberries are away from the currants, otherwise the moth, a pest dangerous for berries, will actively multiply.

A pear planted near a cherry will often get sick. The same situation is observed when planting next to a sweet cherry or cherry of any kind of currant. And a juniper planted under a pear is likely to infect it with fungal infections.

The apple tree also loses from the neighborhood of cherries / sweet cherries, as well as apricots, barberries, lilacs. In general, sweet cherry reacts aggressively to any planting under its crown, especially trees.

To prevent the appearance of a pest called strawberry-raspberry weevil, do not plant strawberries and raspberries next to each other. But almost any other plants next to raspberries, on the contrary, feel better, because it saturates the earth with oxygen.

It is noteworthy that it is not advisable to plant a birch in your garden - it has a very strong root system that absorbs a huge amount of water, taking it away from other plants. The same can be said about maple and spruce.

Plants that can repel pests:

Celery and shag resist the cabbage fly, onions are an excellent remedy against spider mite. Wormwood and garlic are enemies of cruciferous fleas, and tomatoes are not to the liking of moths and suckers. Garlic is also effective in repelling aphids, and also helps the soil accumulate sulfur.

Rules for the neighborhood of vegetables for greenhouses

If the compatibility of vegetables when planting in a greenhouse is important to you, keep in mind the following factors:

in greenhouses, vegetables grow faster, and in general the harvest is better; in order to properly plant vegetables in a garden in a greenhouse, you need to adhere to the same principles as on the open ground; before planting, you need to carefully develop a layout of the beds; tomatoes grow best on a sunny south side.

The compatibility of plants in a garden bed in a greenhouse is closely related to the season. There are two types of greenhouse mixed planting. In the first, greens are grown in early spring, in the second, different crops are cultivated throughout the season. In other words, greens are planted first, which ripens very quickly, then they are harvested and planted in the same place with tomatoes or cucumbers.

In a greenhouse, it is desirable to plant those plants that require similar conditions of humidity and temperature. Cucumbers provide abundant shade, so it is quite possible to place shade-loving crops next to them. Tomatoes will do well with white cabbage.

Mixed planting of vegetables will help you get a good harvest even in difficult conditions - poor soil, unsuitable climate. It is possible to combine mixed beds with the technology of compacted crops to improve the result. In a word, the creation of the garden of your dreams is in your hands, if you correctly use modern developments. Both the novice and experienced gardener can learn something new from mixed planting technology.

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