Ventilation in the bath: an overview of traditional schemes and nuances of arrangement. Ventilation in the bath: the best schemes and professional advice Organization of air circulation in the steam room

Bathing in a bath is a process of cleansing not only the body, but also the soul, it is an ancient ritual that has its roots in ancient times. Going to take a steam bath with a good company is a synonym for a pleasant stay with a useful purpose.

Dressing room - a bath room in which it is also important to ensure proper ventilation

Happy owners of home saunas should try hard to provide the building with all the elements necessary for its quality work. The article talks about such an installation detail as ventilation in the dressing room, because proper ventilation must be provided to each room.

Why is it needed and why is it useful

A small room that opens the entrance to the bathhouse, which serves as a kind of corridor and a changing room, as well as a resting place, is called a dressing room. The floor in it is usually made of moisture-resistant wood, and the ceiling is endowed with a heat-saving function. The walls of this room are insulated with wool.

The area of ​​the dressing room is calculated according to the principle of 1.3 m2 and more per person. If seasonal summer buildings do not need additional insulation, then year-round require certain conditions of detention in the cold season.

In addition to heating, ventilation must be present in the room. It performs the function of protecting the dressing room from excessive moisture, dampness, and various fungi, thereby preventing rotting of the wood from which the building is made. The influx of fresh air replaces the remote one. Incorrectly equipped ventilation system and insufficient heating can lead to condensation in the dressing room.

Visitors to the baths expect a long and comfortable pastime, and a well-installed ventilation system will help ensure it. One ventilation to maintain a sufficient temperature in the room will not be enough.

High-quality equipment will require a lot of money, but it's worth it. On cozy winter evenings, sitting in a warm sauna, you will not regret the money spent. The influx of fresh air is provided by a ventilation circulation, and this allows a person to breathe normally in the steam room.

Depending on the process regulator, the ventilation in the bath is of the following types: natural, mechanical and combined. The first, according to the principle of operation, is based on the difference between internal and external pressure, the second - on the operation of special devices, and the mixed one - on the operation of fans.

Make sure the system is functioning correctly. Ventilation should not:

• incorrectly distribute air flows, directing coolness to the wrong destination;
• break the usual degree of the bath;
• eliminate the necessary air.

Failures and even life-threatening situations can result from system malfunctions. In addition, the comfort conditions and the smell in the room will leave much to be desired.

Unpleasant smells, disturbed comfort conditions and even an increased risk of endangering the life of visitors are the consequences of improper ventilation.

Principle of operation

In addition to windows and doors, air enters the building through special vents. Sliding plugs help regulate the air circulation process. Intensive ventilation can be created by installing a fan in the exhaust opening.

What parameters should air ducts have for the successful operation of the system:

• size - 15-20 cm;
• the upper air should rise 2 m above the floor;
• the lower one is 50 cm, located on the opposite side from the upper one.

It is easier to provide ventilation for a small room, but sacrificing space is also not an option.

The operation of ventilation in a bath building directly depends on the operation of the stove. The furnace is located in the underground channel. Its function is the passage of air and further heat exchange. Through a pipe, it is connected to a metal sheet with a fuse lined with bricks. This will make the air in the sauna fresh. The ventilation box is protected from damage by a special grille.

For the purpose of a more detailed acquaintance with the device of the ventilation apparatus, it is proposed to view its diagram.

Self-installation of ventilation

If you decide to equip the air regulator with your own hands, you should carefully read the theoretical information and watch the necessary videos. Be sure to use the scheme when working on the arrangement of ventilation.

It is recommended to start with the floors. Some owners believe that this part of the room does not need ventilation, but this is not entirely true. Since the floor is constantly wet, without intervention, it can gradually deteriorate. Therefore, it is worth doing a few vents in it. The distance between the floorboards should be about 1 cm.

Do not forget that after each session the floors must be dried. The best option for a well-established air circulation in the steam room is when the ventilation duct is laid right next to the metal sheet. The box can be no more than 1/5 part larger than the chimney. It is most rational to place the firebox directly in the steam room.

Below are five basic options for ventilation schemes for dressing rooms. To determine which one is right for you, read each in more detail.

1. The location of the inlet is behind the stove, the outlet is opposite it. For uniform heat transfer, a fan is installed in the outlet. The outflow of air occurs through the hood.
2. Both holes are located on the same wall: the upper one is at a distance of 30 cm from the ceiling, the lower one is at the same distance from the floor. The fan is also present in this variant. The heated air from the oven goes to the exhaust and leaves the room.
3. The entrance is behind the stove at a height of 20 cm from the floor, the exit is opposite it. Through the fan, cold air is sent from the steam room to the street.
4. This principle is good for a bath with floors and slots for water drainage. The inlet is located behind the stove 30 cm from the floor, cold air makes its way through the floor to the ventilation pipe before leaving the room.
5. If your bath has a constantly running stove, make a hole directly opposite it. The air in this case will be drawn out through the chimney and the firebox.

To adjust the temperature in the steam room and change the quality of the steam, experts advise installing plugs that can close the inlets.

Now you know how to make ventilation in the dressing room. No need to buy expensive Finnish installation. The main thing is to carefully follow the instructions and act according to the given scheme. Proper ventilation in your room is the key to success.

We have repeatedly addressed the topic of bath ventilation, but these were materials regarding its theoretical part.

This article corrects the preponderance of theory and is entirely devoted to the practical issues of ventilation in the bath.

How to make ventilation in the bath: plan at the construction stage

Indeed, there are far from isolated cases of the construction of baths without any kind of ventilation. At first glance it seems that the train has already left. However, in reality there is always the opportunity to fix everything, however, you will have to come to terms with the fact that this will cost a pretty penny. It is especially difficult to make forgotten ventilation in a brick bath, where ventilation ducts are laid in the walls during the construction phase. But in other cases, the task is not easy.

But what does it mean to plan during the construction phase? First of all, we are talking about the layout ventilation holes and the channels by which they are connected to the street or neighboring rooms (depending on the choice). Based on this scheme, the volume of rooms and standards, the diameter of the pipes is calculated, which provides the necessary gas exchange in each of the bath rooms: a steam room, a washing room, a rest room, a dressing room, a toilet. If the ventilation is forced, then the power of the fans is calculated.

If the bath is already built

Let's take, as an example, an ordinary Russian bathhouse, in which they forgot to make ventilation holes. In principle, if there are windows, and the furnace firebox is located inside the steam room, then you can do without drilling holes at all. But you will have to constantly resort to burst ventilation and use the draft of the furnace as a ventilation one.

This will solve the problem in general, but there are downsides to be aware of:

1. By opening windows and doors, we do not so much reduce the temperature in the room, but distill the steam into other rooms (instead of the street where the inflow comes from, it goes inside and condensate falls there), and then the steam comes out, and the temperature has only dropped slightly and will recover in a short time.
2. To use stove draft, you still have to make holes, but only in the lower part of the steam room door. Then an influx from neighboring premises will go through it, which, in turn, will pull through the cracks from the street.

To adjust the ventilation with the help of the furnace, the gate and furnace doors are used. If you need to increase air exchange, just open the damper and the firebox doors to the stop. To reduce it, the gate is covered, but not completely, because in closed with unburnt firewood - this is a guarantee of carbon monoxide poisoning.

By the way, the problem of forgotten ventilation in a bath made of any material is solved by the methods described. Replace completely supply and exhaust ventilation they can't, but they relieve the trouble of making holes in the walls.

If such ventilation is not enough, you will have to drill the wall. But more on that below.

Device, schemes: how to make ventilation in the bath

There are a number of materials included in other articles, therefore, in order not to repeat ourselves, we suggest that you follow the links below - there you will find a lot useful information on the topic of interest:

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath: a step-by-step guide

Now let's proceed to the analysis of the points that make up the creation of bath ventilation with our own hands, let's call it a step-by-step guide.

Schema selection

In terms of choosing a scheme, the answer to the question “how to properly ventilate in a bath” is ambiguous, since there are different schemes. Physics says that the inlet should be located below the exhaust. What exactly will be the height difference between them is up to you. Despite the fact that in many sources it is proposed to make an exhaust hole under the ceiling (but in no case on the ceiling, so as not to spoil the attic with condensate), there is a more advanced scheme in which there are two exhaust holes inside for one exhaust hole outside. It's simple: a pipe with two holes is placed - lower behind the middle shelf and under the ceiling, and this pipe has one exit to the street.

The schemes also differ in what walls to make the hood on. Most often, there are no questions with the inflow - it is done under the stove, and the hood is made on the opposite, and on the same walls, and with access to the street, and to the adjacent room.

Choose the optimal ventilation flow path

Calculations are simply made only for forced ventilation. For a natural one, many factors have to be taken into account, in particular, the strength and direction of the winds that usually blow in this area. Why is it necessary? Let's take the case when the exhaust opening faces the same side from which a strong wind is blowing. And it turns out that because of this, the influx strives to get into the exhaust hole. Then the supply will also “turn around” in the opposite direction. This is called reverse thrust or thrust tipping.

In order to avoid this, the ventilation ducts can be extended to lead in the right direction, and even done with turns, which, by the way, reduce the speed of air movement.

The idea is simple: it is better to orient the inlet to the side where the wind often blows, and the outlet of the hood is on the opposite side or through the roof along a high pipe.

ADVICE! Rather than making ventilation ducts with knees, it is better to immediately make forced ventilation.

By the way, not every wall will well accept a ventilation duct in its thickness. It is better not to do this in the outer walls of the blocks. All ventilation is carried out interior walls and partitions, often over walls.

How to make a hole in a wall

This point is discussed in more detail below.

Installation of pipes and gratings

Galvanized pipes can be used as an air duct.

ATTENTION! If you take plastic ones, pay attention to their temperature range so that the steam room does not spoil them.

Ventilation in the dressing room

The dressing room should be a warm room with fresh air, in which it is comfortable to be after bath procedures. Therefore, it is usually equipped with only one ventilation hole - an exhaust hood. And to speed up the process of gas exchange, a fan is often placed on this hood. The exhaust hole itself is located opposite the steam room at a height of half a meter. It is drilled in an accessible way in the wall, a plug is placed on it on one side, and a grill or deflector on the other. In the case of forced ventilation, there is a fan inside, connected according to the instructions attached to the device.

But if the furnace firebox is not in the steam room, but in the dressing room, you will have to make sure that fresh air from the street enters the furnace. To do this, a ventilation duct, most likely made of galvanized steel, is equipped, which runs under the finished floor and delivers fresh air directly to stove door. The installation of this channel is carried out until the end of work with the floor. The pipe of the estimated diameter is inserted at one end into a hole in the wall, where it is fixed with mounting foam and closed with a grate, and on the other hand it is led out to the furnace and is equipped with an adjustable plug.

How to make ventilation in the steam room of the bath

The ventilation mode of the steam room differs from other rooms of the bath just as the steam room itself differs from them in its extremeness. In the Russian bath, while soaring, the ventilation is blocked for a while. But at the same time, it's extremely important. to saturate the steam room with oxygen, uniform heating, distribution of air flows.

More detailed information on this topic can be found in articles and in general. In particular, Bastu ventilation can be called among the well-proven methods of ventilation of this room. But you can read about it in the articles mentioned.

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the steam room

Steam room ventilation schemes can also be found in. As for the stages of self-installation of air ducts, they are no different from those given above, so now we will take a closer look at the method of drilling holes in walls from a log house or timber, as well as from blocks.

How to make a hole in the wall of a log house

1. Before you start you need to know place and size future hole, which is a little larger than the diameter of the pipe, because you still have to wrap the pipe with a heat insulator. After that, markup is done. (It is advisable to have both pipes and grates at hand at this moment so that the process can be controlled through them.)
2. A drill for wood, the length of which should be greater than the thickness of the wall with all the "pie", if any, a through hole is drilled in the center of the markup.
3. After that, from the outside of the wall a circle of the desired diameter is drawn with drilled hole in the center.
4. External and internal wall trim neatly sawn in a circle, freeing the log of the wall.
5. The same drill is made holes in the log around the circumference marked circle. And the closer they are to each other, the easier it is to remove the inner fragment later. Make sure the drill is perpendicular to the plane of the wall.
6. Chisel and chisel will help remove jumpers between drilled holes. Work should be done both inside and outside the bath.
7. Pulling out the middle part don't smooth the edges- it's too much.

Useful video

And here on the video the same thing is done with a drill and crown:

How to make a hole in a block wall

The method for a block wall is exactly the same as described above, except that a concrete drill is taken (you can use a crown instead). By the way, the blocks are very soft, the main thing is not to collide with metal (reinforcing mesh, dowels, fastening fittings for openings). If this happens, you will need special tongs (hydraulic).

IMPORTANT! There is also a chance of colliding with metal when drilling a log house - there are dowels under the ceiling that hold the Mauerplate, so the pliers should be rented in advance.

As for air ducts, plugs and valves, all this is purchased in stores. The air duct is most often a galvanized pipe (round, square or rectangular in cross section), which must be thermally insulated (wrapped with insulation) and sealed with foam so that condensation does not form and the wall does not get wet.

Plugs and dampers are bought for the desired diameter. It is better to take wooden ones, because the plastic in the steam room will release carcinogens that we do not need, and the metal will be burned in a heated steam room. As for the schemes, we have already given links to them.

Useful video

It shows how to make a square hole in the wall using a drill.

Well, that's all we could tell you about how to make ventilation in the bath. We can only wish you success in the implementation of your plans. Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath is a difficult task, but feasible for many. We hope that you have planned everything well and to the end, and in the future you will not have to regret either the lost time or the money invested.

In contact with

Ventilation is needed in all rooms, the rules for its installation are prescribed in SNiP 41-01-2003. But they concern only residential, public and industrial premises that create favorable conditions for humans. At the same time, it is taken into account that people stay in such premises for a long period of time and for everyone it is necessary to create the same standard indicators of the microclimate and air quality.

Baths have completely different tasks, they create a stressful microclimate for the body - high temperatures (in Russian baths up to + 60 ° C, in saunas over + 100 ° C) and high humidity (up to 90%). Moreover, in one room, the temperature and humidity indicators should vary widely, depending on the wishes of the washers. Changing the microclimate parameters should be carried out as soon as possible, and the achieved values ​​should be maintained for a relatively long period of time. And another very important difference between the bath and ordinary rooms. If, secondly, people have the opportunity to “protect themselves” from temporary inconveniences with clothes, then this is impossible to do in the baths.

Illustration of the microclimate in a steam room - high temperature and hot steam

Based on these features, the ventilation of baths must perform individual tasks, and this affects the principles of its design and features of operation. Ventilation in the bath can be natural and forced, each type has its own characteristics, characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. In this article, we will talk in detail about only one type of ventilation - natural.

We have already found out the tasks of bath ventilation and how it differs from the ventilation of other rooms, now it's time to tell you how they can be achieved. The methods depend on the architectural features of the room and your preferences.

First you need to remember the lessons of physics from school. Ventilation of premises occurs due to the difference in air density in the street and in the room. Warm air has less weight and rises, cold air is heavier and sinks down, so-called convection occurs. Accordingly, in order for the room to be ventilated, hot air must be able to leave, and cold air must be allowed to enter, inlet and outlet openings are needed. These can be ordinary cracks in windows and doors or specially made ventilation holes.

On the Internet, you can find statements that these holes must necessarily have the same dimensions, otherwise the ventilation does not work or “blowing in the wrong direction”. Only those who skipped classes can say that. The ratio of the size of the inlet and outlet of air does not affect the performance of ventilation.

Square ventilation window

If the outlet, for example, can release only 1 m3 of warm air per hour, then exactly the same amount will get into the cold room, no matter what the dimensions of the inlet, and vice versa. And the effect of reverse thrust is obtained in the case of wind backwater or when total absence intake of fresh air. In the first case, a strong external wind "drives" the air into the room, in the second case, after the air leaves the room, a small vacuum is formed, which draws the air back into the room. This is not to say that ventilation is completely absent, it just becomes cyclical and works on a back-to-back basis. Of course, the efficiency of such ventilation approaches zero, the air moves a little only near the holes.

And with these phenomena it is clear, now we will consider specific types of natural ventilation of the bath. Let's start with the simplest ones and work our way up to the more complex ones.

The simplest, but also the least effective method ventilation.

In the steam room, a door opens or a door and a window open at the same time - ventilation occurs quickly, but not in the way we would like. Why?

Steam is removed from the bath, and this has negative consequences.

1. Firstly, if you open the door, then the steam does not go out into the street, but into other rooms. Humidity rises sharply in them, heated steam immediately condenses on all surfaces. What can happen next - no need to explain.

   

2. Secondly. Lowering the temperature in the steam room is only a subjective phenomenon. There are two concepts of temperature - actual and perceived. The actual temperature is a physical indicator, the perceived temperature is subjective. We feel the same actual temperature in different ways depending on environmental factors. Increased humidity "increases" the temperature we feel, strong wind lowers it. So, due to simple ventilation, only excess steam can be removed, and the actual air temperature returns to its previous values ​​​​within a few minutes.

   

3. Thirdly, ventilation will never be able to establish stable indicators of the microclimate in the room. As soon as the doors are closed, the temperature and humidity rise sharply; as soon as the doors are opened, the humidity and temperature also drop sharply.

   

Bottom line - ventilation is not the method of ventilation that should be used all the time. This is an extreme method, it is recommended to resort to it only in case of urgent need.

This method can be considered more successful, but it is possible only in one case - the furnace of the sauna stove is located in the steam room. Warm air is removed through the firebox and chimney; it can enter through floor cracks, an ajar window or door. Sometimes at the bottom door leaf a special hole is made, to improve the design it is closed with a decorative grille.

Benefits of ventilating a bath with a stove.

1. Ease of execution. There is no need to make special products in the log house. Any additional hole in wooden wall doesn't improve it performance characteristics, and that's putting it mildly. If mistakes were made during the period of making the vents and installing decorative gratings, then the risks of moisture getting onto the crowns of the log house increase. Moisture will dry out for a very long time, and a long stay wooden structures when wet, it negatively affects their strength and durability of use.

   

2. The ability to control the frequency of air exchange in the room. Ventilation is “controlled” by the damper and the stove doors. It is necessary to speed it up - the damper and the furnace door open all the way, the temperature has become favorable - the damper closes a little. You can easily find the optimal position of the gate, the microclimate in the steam room stabilizes, the ventilation rate of the room has stable values.

   

   Stove with gate - photo

3. Versatility of application. It does not matter what materials the bath is built from, what its dimensions and architectural features are. In addition, this system allows for simple upgrades. For example, it is worth making an inlet behind the stove and the air entering the bath will be slightly warmed up. The exhaust is still the chimney.

   

There are, of course, disadvantages, we will name the main ones.

1. Insufficient performance. It will not be possible to quickly change the temperature or humidity in the steam room.
2. The presence of "dead" zones. Mixing of air throughout the volume does not occur, there are zones with drafts and zones with stagnant air.
3. Dependence of draft (ventilation) on weather conditions.

Despite some disadvantages, this method of ventilation in combination with ordinary ventilation is very often used in "budget" baths.

For a budget couple the best option– oven ventilation and ventilation

Airing the bath with a stove - scheme

The best option for ventilation devices for most baths.

Advantages:

Important. It is desirable to think over the ventilation device even before the start of the construction of the bath. Resolve issues with specific hole placement and overall dimensions. We advise you to make the height of the ducts no more than the height of the beam, and to adjust the length of the holes.

Prices for bath fans

bath fan

Why is it better to provide ventilation at the construction stage?

1. Firstly, it is much more physically difficult to make holes in an already finished structure.

   

   Drilling a hole in a log house is a laborious process.

2. Secondly, there is a risk that the hole will hit the dowel, especially for the upper outlet air. It is located in close proximity to the Mauerlat truss system, and they are fixed more often than ordinary crowns and only metal rods or pieces of building reinforcement are used as dowels.

   

3. Thirdly, if you make a hole with a metal crown, then an expensive tool will fail after a “meeting” with a dowel. And it will not always be possible to “reanimate” a chisel or chisel after trying to cut through the metal.

   

4. Fourthly, the metal dowel in this place is almost impossible to cut off. You can’t get close with a grinder, with a hacksaw as well, but you won’t wish the enemy to cut with a file. We'll have to poke the air in another place. And who needs an extra hole in the bath wall or an increase in its size? Especially if you have already made holes in the outer and inner skin and bought ventilation grilles under its “planned” dimensions. "Meeting" with a metal dowel is a very unpleasant situation from all points of view.

Variants of placement and sizes of ventilation products

For all natural ventilation products, there are several general rules. Firstly, in order to improve the efficiency of the system, the cold air inlets should be located at the bottom of about 20 centimeters from the floor level. The exit holes should be placed at the maximum height - under the ceiling or on the ceiling. Secondly, the mixing of different layers of air in the volume of the steam room is improved if the inlet and outlet are located at the maximum distance from each other, preferably along the diagonal of the room. Where are they recommended to be installed?

It can be done at the bottom of the steam room door leaf.

Advantages - there is no need to make an extra hole in the wall of the bath. This saves time and effort, in addition, the possibility of getting wet of the lower rims of the log house is excluded. The disadvantage is that in most cases the doors are located opposite the shelves for taking bath procedures, cold air flows appear, creating a number of inconveniences.

Under the shelf

Advantages - the inlet is imperceptible, cold air flows are well mixed with warm air throughout the volume. The disadvantage is that access to the grate for opening / closing the damper is more difficult. If during washing it is possible to regulate the intensity of ventilation only with the help of the upper grate, then after airing the baths, both should be closed. And this means that after some time you will have to visit the steam room specifically to close the vent.

Important. The dampers on the ventilation openings must be installed two for each - outside and inside the steam room. After airing the baths, both should be closed. Choose a grille installation technology that guarantees complete tightness of the external dampers. It is strictly forbidden to get atmospheric moisture on the crowns of the log house.

Behind the oven.

Air inlet behind the furnace - diagram

Most best option. Cold air from the street hits the stove, warms up a little and breaks into several separate and low-speed flows. Drafts are completely eliminated. Disadvantages - it is not always possible to install in this place decorative lattices. If the stove is close to the wall, then the high temperature adversely affects the plastic or wooden materials decorative lattice. In addition, according to safety regulations, such places behind the stove must be insulated with sheet metal using thermal insulation.

Doesn't fit your particular case? No problem, make a hole where you see fit.

As for the outlet, there are fewer problems with its placement. Our only advice - do not do it in the ceiling. Waterlogged air cannot be taken out to the attic, it will cause constant wetting of the wooden elements of the truss system, and its premature repair always costs a pretty penny. To protect the rafters, moist air will have to be brought to the roof. Why make an additional hole in the coating, why worsen the tightness of the roof coating with your own hands and at your own expense?

Dimensions of openings for natural ventilation

The technology for calculating the dimensions of ventilation openings is indicated in the current regulations. Determining the size of vents for natural ventilation is much more difficult than for forced ventilation - there are too many factors beyond the control of people. The main performance parameter of the ventilation system is the frequency of air changes. For residential premises, the minimum value of the multiplicity is regulated, while both the temperature in the rooms and the temperature outside are taken into account. The temperature in residential premises fluctuates within insignificant limits, which simplifies the work of designers.

In pairs, the situation is much more complicated - the temperature and humidity indicators vary over a very wide range. In addition, the rate of arrival / entry of air in different situations may differ significantly. Such preconditions make it almost impossible to accurately calculate the optimum air exchange rate for natural ventilation.

Some bath owners are afraid to suffocate while taking bath procedures due to lack of oxygen. We bring to their attention that one cubic meter of air is enough for one person to breathe for an hour and a half. Calculate the cubic capacity of the steam room and find out how long you can safely steam, the bill goes to tens of hours.

Carbon monoxide can cause problems. If you closed the stove gate before the firewood is completely burned out, then no ventilation will help. It can ventilate the room only if there is no more carbon monoxide coming in. Heat the stove correctly and never burn out, do not rely in vain on ventilation.

How to make a ventilation hole in the wall of the bath

For example, we will take the most difficult option - the outer and inner lining of the walls of the bath has already been done. The hole can be round, square or rectangular.

Step 1. Mark the location of the vent on the inner lining of the steam room. Before starting work, you must not only know the location of the hole, but also its dimensions and configuration. It is desirable that air ducts and decorative grilles are available, this will make it possible to accurately control the size of the hole and not do extra work.

Step 2 Prepare a long drill for wood, the working length should exceed the thickness of the bath wall together with the outer and inner lining. In the center of the drawn contour of the vent, drill a through hole from the inside of the steam room. The exit of the drill outside the steam room will be the center of the air. Draw around it the dimensions of the hole, similarly made in the steam room.

Step 3 Remove the elements of the inner and outer skin in the contour. If your bath is sheathed on both sides with natural clapboard, then the process is simplified, just carefully cut the boards. If externally used metal sheets- use the grinder.

Step 4 Take a close look bearing structures casing, if they are damaged - repair. Drill through holes as close to each other as possible along the contour of the ventilation duct, constantly check where they exit from the outside of the wall. The drill must always be perpendicular to the plane. Drill the same holes over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe vent, the more there are, the easier it is to make a hole in the wall.

Video - How to drill a large diameter hole in a tree

Step 5. Next, you need to work with a chisel and a chisel, gradually remove the wooden bridges between the holes. It will not be possible to completely gouge a hole on one side of the wall - it is too difficult to reach with a tool. Do half of the work from the inside of the steam room, and the other half from the outside. It is not necessary to carefully level the surfaces of the holes, the main thing is that the air duct fits easily into the channel.

The most difficult physical work is done, you can proceed with the installation of the duct and gratings. Don't be discouraged if it takes a long time to make holes, even experienced builders can rarely prepare more than two holes a day.

How to install ducts and grilles

For air ducts, you can take metal galvanized or plastic pipes, the length is determined by the length of the passage. Select the grate according to the size of the hole; to adjust the ventilation efficiency, it must have dampers.

Prices for air ducts

duct

Step 1. mineral wool insulate the planes of the hole, carefully insert the air duct into place. In order to firmly fix the pipe in the desired position, use mounting foam. Excess foam that has come out should be cut off after hardening.

Step 2 If there is waterproofing between the sheathing and the wall, foam the gap between the wall and the hole in the sheathing with foam, it will seal the cut and prevent water from entering the wooden structures.

Step 3 Fasten the gratings, the method of fastening depends on the material of manufacture of the wall cladding and the crate.

We fix the ventilation grilles. In the photo - the grill on the outside of the bath

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

Check ventilation with a smoldering firebrand or other source of smoke. Bring it to the inlet and observe how and at what speed the air flows in the steam room.

In the photo, the air inflow valve and its performance check

Experiment with natural ventilation at various damper settings, from maximum to minimum.

Video - Installing the KPV 125 valve

Video - Ventilation in a bath with a Termofor air conditioner

Ventilation in the dressing room is a guarantee of healthy rest. The quality of the microclimate in the bath depends on how correctly this type of work is performed. Get healthy mind and the pleasure of relaxing in a room with a musty smell of dampness and mold is impossible, so even before it is important to study all the features of air exchange arrangement.

Scheme of the air exchange device in the dressing room

The construction of a bath is not complete without a set of basic premises: a steam room, a washing room, a dressing room, a relaxation room. It is this set that helps to get a good rest and enjoy it. In order to save space, the dressing room is often used as a dressing room, a rest room. Since the maximum time vacationers will be in this room, the microclimate in it must meet the following requirements:

According to the listed list, a direct dependence of the microclimate on heating and ventilation is visible.

Technical requirements for air exchange in the dressing room

When building a bath with your own hands, you can later encounter increased humidity, which, ultimately, will lead to the appearance of rot, mold, and premature destruction of the building. The cause of such troubles may be illiterate arrangement of ventilation, lack or improper insulation of walls, floors, ceilings.

Before the stage engineering work in the dressing room, a number of features should be taken into account:

There are three types of ventilation used for a bath:

• Forced. It is carried out with the help of electric fans;
• Natural. Based on the laws of physics, where wind force and atmospheric pressure play a role. Principle of movement air masses: warm air rises, chilled falls to the floor;
• Combined. A combination of the two previous types. Such a complex will provide an optimal microclimate in the entire structure in a short time.

Arrangement of ventilation in the dressing room

Being engaged in the construction of a bath, it should be understood that this is not only a steam room, but also a number of other premises. In general - a complex. Therefore, a single ventilation scheme is laid at the time of design. For this, a number of points should be taken into account:

Depending on the location of the rest room, the hood can be mounted on the wall behind which it is located. Forced ventilation is often used to improve the efficiency of air movement.

When doing work on laying ventilation ducts with your own hands, do not forget about their heat and.

An integrated approach to the problem of condensate

By purchasing finished bath, you may encounter the problem of condensation in the dressing room. If the audit of the ventilation system on site showed that everything is normal, you should look at the quality of the "pies" of the walls, floor, ceiling.

Possible drafts and additional sources of moisture, cold from the outside create problems inside the building. As a result, this method of solving the problem with condensate, how to make ventilation in the dressing room, will not help. It will take a whole range of work to eliminate this shortcoming.

Floor insulation

The ideal flooring option is tile. It seals all drafts from the underground space, and also prevents the penetration of moisture. For greater comfort, a warm floor system can be laid under it, but this will increase the cost of finishing and operation. Therefore, wooden coatings are most often equipped. The correct floor must be mounted in the following steps:

Often, part of the heating and ventilation ducts are laid in the underground space. With this scheme, communications are insulated and waterproofed.

Ceiling insulation

Perhaps this is the weakest point in the dressing room. It is on him that the effect of steam is most negatively affected.

The warmer the ceiling, the less condensation will accumulate on it. The ideal filler option is expanded clay, which will replace both insulation and vapor barrier. But this is not always technically possible.

Therefore, a false ceiling is most popular:

• Guide bars are stuffed, a vapor barrier is laid;
• A heater is laid between the wooden profiles (mineral wool is recommended), sewn up with a reflector (foil film). The seams between the canvases are glued with metallic tape.

An important point is the ventilation gap between the insulation and the finishing lining of the ceiling.

Wall insulation

It is carried out according to the same principle as the ceiling lining. For assumed . And inside the arrangement of waterproofing.

Another important point for saving heat and optimizing ventilation is doors. The size of the entrance group to the dressing room is recommended 1800*800.

In this case, it is necessary to insulate the box. The door to the steam room is made smaller than the entrance. Thus, heat losses in both rooms are reduced.

Heating

The sharp difference between the steam room and the dressing room is the main reason for the appearance of condensate. Therefore, experienced craftsmen strive to create the optimal temperature regime in each room. To do this, the heater stove is used as a heat source.

There are several options:

Which method to choose is determined individually.

The full and durable functioning of a bath of any type and size depends not only on the competent construction of the building, its decoration and installation of the stove, but also on the organization of the ventilation system. Further, in the material with the attached photos and videos, we will talk about the types and principles of construction of the hood in various premises baths, built with their own hands.

How is the ventilation in the bath

The circulation of air in the bath, as well as in any other room, occurs according to the laws of physics, so circuit diagram hoods are pretty simple.

For its arrangement, it is necessary to make two types of holes:

• supply;
• output.

Fresh air enters the premises from the street through the supply channels. As a rule, when designing a ventilation system inside the bath, such holes are provided almost at the very floor near the stove. This is done so that the cold air quickly heats up from the stove and the overall temperature inside the bath does not decrease.

In order for the carbon monoxide accumulated inside the room and the superheated moist air to be removed from the room, exhaust openings are designed. They are placed slightly below the ceiling level opposite the supply channels so that the air can be freely updated and not stagnate inside the bath.

However, it is not worth making a hole for the hood in the ceiling itself, because in this case the bath will cool very quickly.

We can say that the layout of the inlet and outlet vents in itself is not very difficult. Much more concern is the need for timely and effective removal of carbon monoxide accumulations in the steam room and at the same time maintaining the temperature at high values ​​necessary for a comfortable stay in the steam room.

In addition, you need to think about how to make ventilation in the dressing room, shower room and rest room so that it is pleasant and not cold to be in them during a respite after the steam room. So you should work out the ventilation scheme in the dressing room of the bath in advance if you plan to perform construction works on one's own.

Air exchange device methods

Air circulation in the bath can be done in two ways:

• spontaneously;
• forcibly.

When deciding how to make ventilation in the dressing room with your own hands, you need to take into account the size of the room itself and its functional features.

natural ventilation

The natural movement of air is achieved due to the difference in temperature and pressure inside the building and outside. When arranging such ventilation in the dressing room of the bath, you need to correctly place the supply and exhaust windows. It is optimal if cold air enters from below, through a passage arranged 25-35 cm from the floor in close proximity to the stove. The outflow of exhaust hot air will be carried out through the hood 15-20 cm from the ceiling.

It is worth noting that often this type of air exchange is not suitable for steam rooms, since cold air stagnates and accumulates near the floor, and the hottest one near the ceiling. In this room it is quite difficult to create optimal air circulation in a natural way, although if you try hard and correctly arrange all the elements of the ventilation system, nothing is impossible.

Forced extraction

You can make the air currents inside the steam room in a Finnish or Russian bath move with the help of mechanisms.

There are two types of forced ventilation systems:

1. Electronically. Such a system controls the air temperature, its humidity, and automatically regulates its supply and cleaning. However, the installation of such complex technological installations can be quite expensive and not fit into the budget.
2. Combined method arranging the hood assumes that, along with the installation of openings for the supply and exhaust of air, special fans are installed. They will force the air masses to move, while creating a feeling of natural air exchange.

How the type of bath building affects the type of ventilation system

Natural ventilation is best done in log cabins for a Russian bath, if during its arrangement all technological requirements were met, and air ducts were installed in the right places.

If the building under the bath is a frame type, then it is usually quite airtight. Therefore, in order to ensure the best air flow into the steam room and proper ventilation, it is advisable to install a blower fan in the supply window.

Brick buildings are completely incapable of breathing and do not let air through. In such a bath, the hood in the dressing room, steam room and rest room can only be forced.

Features and subtleties of hood design

When starting to design a ventilation system in the dressing room and other rooms of the bath, you should consider all the subtleties and features of the placement of its individual elements.

Therefore, it is necessary to decide how to make a hood in the dressing room, steam room and rest room at the planning stage of building a bath.

The passages themselves, through which air flows from the street will enter the steam room, dressing room, shower room and rest room, and the exhaust air and accumulations of carbon monoxide and steam will go outside, will need to be completed during the construction of the bath frame. But additional elements in the form of gratings, valves to control the intensity of the air supply, as well as fans and other mechanisms, are installed already in the process of final finishing the bath from the inside.

The following parameters affect how efficiently the ventilation system in the bath will work:

• the principle of placement of air duct windows;
• the dimensions of the supply and exhaust openings, which are calculated based on the volume of the room in which they are located, and it does not matter whether it is a shower room, a rest room, a dressing room or a steam room.

Calculation of window sizes for ventilation

It is necessary to calculate the size of the windows for blowing and blowing air, based on the size of a particular bath room, that is, for a steam room, a rest room, a washing room or a dressing room, these indicators will be different. At the same time, it is equally important to provide for the possibility of adjusting the size of such a window and, accordingly, the power of air flows, by installing special grilles and valves.

Note that if the ventilation ducts are made too large, it will be quite difficult to maintain the temperature in the room at an optimal level, which in parallel entails unnecessary costs of electricity or fuel. Yes, and adjusting the gap in the duct, which you need to open the valve, will be quite difficult.

When constructing ventilation in the dressing room of the bath with your own hands, you should start from the calculated value of the blowing window of 24 cm 2 per 1 cubic meter of the room. But the blow hole should be made larger to ensure good traction.

It is worth remembering that too much carbon monoxide and humid exhaust air, dangerous to human life, can accumulate in the room if the size of the hood windows is not enough for the full circulation of air flows.

The principle of placement of holes for the hood

The replacement of air in the room occurs due to the gradual rise of the heated air masses up to the ceiling in the direction of the exhaust opening, bringing them outside and the supply of a similar volume of cold fresh heavy air from the street through the supply window.

It is desirable that the direction of the warm air flows coming from the furnace side can be controlled. Therefore, it is advisable to place two holes for blowing in the steam room at once. With the help of valves, it is possible to create a directed heat flow on them, leaving one or another gap in the air ducts.

Organization of the ventilation system in the Russian bath

How effectively a do-it-yourself hood in the dressing room, steam room and washing room in the Russian bath will function depends on the quality and literacy of the project development.

It is very important that the change in air temperature when moving from the steam room to washing room and the dressing room was gradual. In addition, it is equally important that the air near the floor and at head level does not differ too much in temperature.

The number of passages for the inflow and outflow of air, their size and location in the room directly affect the intensity and uniformity of the circulation of air masses inside the building. BUT optional equipment greatly simplifies this process.

Schemes for arranging a hood for a bath

The main task of ventilation in the rest room of the bath, as well as in the dressing room and steam room, is to ensure constant air renewal, maintain a constant temperature and humidity, and also remove carbon monoxide to the outside. Since all bath rooms are constantly in contact with high temperatures and humidity, they need to be dried regularly.

However, simply ventilating the steam room and drying the wooden elements is not enough. In order for the wood not to accumulate moisture, a constant, stably operating hood must be organized in the bath. Then it will last much longer and keep hygiene and cleanliness.

Ventilated floor system

To improve air circulation in the steam room, you can equip a ventilated floor.

To organize such a structure, a number of conditions will need to be met:

• air holes must be provided in the foundation of the bath;
• in the boardwalk, you need to leave gaps of 1 cm, sufficient for the passage of air;
• supply channels are located in parallel walls, having previously protected them with gratings;
• the finishing coating is laid out above the level of the blower of the furnace so that it performs the function of an additional hood;
• at the end of the bath procedures in the bath, all doors are left open until the floor is completely dry.

Air exchange in the dressing room

Both the dressing room and the relaxation room are not exposed to aggressive influence high temperature and humidity. Therefore, ventilation and air exchange in these rooms is the easiest to do. Here, the method of natural ventilation is used, or the arrangement of additional fans in the exhaust openings connected to the air ducts in the bathroom, vestibule or steam room.

If desired, you can install electronic ventilators. However, they require an electrical connection and direct access to the street.

Extractor in the shower room

Typically, a shower room requires a motorized forced ventilation system to remove accumulated steam and moisture. In this case, the dimensions of the inlet and outlet holes are made the same. The supply channel originates at a level of 2 m above the ground, and the output channel ends above the roof.

Steam room ventilation system

One of the main requirements for the ventilation system in the steam room is the absence of drafts. At the same time, the room should heat up quickly, and the humidity level should be kept at the level necessary for bathing procedures. In this regard, the principle of the location of supply and exhaust openings laid during construction is considered optimal.

The intensity of air flow can be adjusted using valves. However, big size the room requires the installation of additional fans for intake or exhaust.