How to solder propylene pipes. DIY soldering iron for soldering plastic pipes

Nowadays, when creating various pipelines, polymer channels are increasingly used. They have a lot of advantages over metal counterparts. Polymer pipes deserve special attention. The price per 1 meter of these structures is significantly lower than that of metal counterparts. Them distinctive feature is convenient installation. Such pipe structures are soldered by means of

In this article, we will analyze the device of the mentioned device, list the most popular manufacturers of equipment and talk about fixing the most typical breakdown with our own hands. You will also have the opportunity to view photos and videos on the topic of this material.

Device device

Most soldering irons have approximately the same design. The differences are only in the form and methods of installing special nozzles.

Any soldering iron for polypropylene pipes consists of:

• housings and handles;
• thermostat;
• heating element placed in a metal casing;
• interchangeable tips coated with teflon.

By the way of functioning, the devices in question are much like an ordinary iron.

Some experts call these devices so. The operation of the device is quite simple. The heating element increases the temperature of the stove it is inside. From it, heat is transferred to the nozzles. It is these heating elements that help soften the polymer to the desired consistency.

The thermostat allows you to control the heating process. This part is responsible for maintaining the required temperature regime, preventing overheating of the installed nozzles. If the thermostat is faulty, it will not be easy to operate the device. The heating elements can get very hot. This will negatively affect the duration of their operation. The metal part of the stove will begin to melt over time. As a result, the device will become unusable.

It is important to choose a soldering iron equipped with a high-quality thermostat. For cheap models given element works unstable. This leads to the fact that the heating of polypropylene structures is carried out unevenly. The temperature level can be excessively high or, conversely, low.

Note that for experienced specialists such a defect is not critical. At the same time, beginners will be able to effectively complete the task only with the use of an absolutely serviceable soldering iron. This is due to the fact that professionals intuitively work with the device, and thanks to their skills they will be able to minimize the consequences of using an unstable device.

Based on the above, a simple conclusion is drawn - it is better to use high-quality and reliable equipment than to mess around with a poorly functioning soldering iron. In this case, it is desirable to use equipment with a thermostat that allows for smooth adjustment of the temperature regime.

Typical failure: the soldering iron does not heat up

Let's analyze a real case of repair of the RSP-2a-Pm device from the Czech company Wavin ekoplastik. The problem was as follows: the device warmed up, but did not gain the required temperature indicator. At the same time, during operation, the sound of sparking contacts arose inside the device. The device was intensively used during the year.

Repair of the device began with its disassembly. The next step was to determine the cause of the problem. The control board was checked first. Next, the soldering iron was turned on and the voltage indicator at the output of the mentioned circuit was determined.

When performing a check, you do not need to wait for the sting to fully warm up. A similar procedure would be appropriate in the case of testing electronics. In our example, it was only necessary to determine the cause of the breakdown. After checking the board, it would be necessary to proceed to the diagnosis of the heating element.

The considered instance of the soldering iron was turned on. The heat indicator lights were on. It was suggested that the problem lies in the heating element circuits. To accurately identify the breakdown, it was necessary to disassemble the protective grille of the heating element.

It was decided to check the thermostat screwed to the heater. The main task of this component is additional protection. The operation of the device was completely controlled by electronics. The thermostat was mounted in order to avoid uncontrollability of the heating element in case of damage to the thyristor.

If the maximum allowable temperature is reached, the bimetal contacts of the safety device will open and the main heating component will stop working. In a particular case, the mentioned elements were burned. As a result, the opening of the contacts began to occur at a temperature below the limit. This was the main reason for the constant underheating of the device.

To eliminate this problem, it was possible to repair the thermostat. But this is a very difficult and time-consuming task. Replacement of the element in question was not feasible due to the lack of spare parts.

As a result, the repairman decided to remove the thermostat from the circuit and connect it directly. For this, the element was disconnected from the heating element contact. Then a new, store-bought, terminal was crimped onto another wire, of blue color. To solve this problem, it is allowed to use terminals in isolation.

Try to use only heat-resistant cambric. They must withstand high temperatures.

The crimping of the terminal is carried out with special tongs. At worst, you can use pliers. The main thing is that the procedure is performed efficiently and reliably. After its implementation, the cable in the terminal must be motionless.

After completing the procedure for turning off the thermostat, it was necessary to assemble the device. In the process of its implementation, damage to the wire retainer was found. To eliminate this breakdown, a conventional plastic clamp was used. After fixing the cables, the extra parts of the plastic were cut off.

Next, the assembly of the device was completed. After that, the device was tested for serviceability. The soldering iron worked like clockwork again. You can use the information from this article when repairing various models soldering irons.

Watch the video:

Often, when operating household plumbing systems made of polypropylene, it becomes necessary to repair or build them up, which is impossible without special equipment for soldering. As a tool suitable for these purposes, purchased devices of a special design are usually used, the high cost of which forces users to think about making them with their own hands.

This approach is good not only because it allows you to save significant funds and not waste time learning how to work with unfamiliar equipment. Thanks to self-manufacturing it is possible to study all the subtleties of handling such devices, which, ultimately, affects the quality of soldering polypropylene and other plastic pipes.

In the event that a decision is made to make a soldering iron for pipes with your own hands, this can be done using the old spare parts left in the household. One of the most common options for its manufacture from improvised means involves the use of an electric iron that has already served its time for these purposes.

To implement this project, you will need the following components and spare parts:

• an old iron rated for at least 800 watts;
• duralumin plate of a suitable size;
• steel slats from an old children's designer;
• wires, a toggle switch, an unnecessary handle from a disassembled drill or grinder, so that it is convenient to hold the soldering iron.

A soldering iron for iron pipes works on the same principle as a factory specialized product. The spiral (heater) heats up, transfers heat to the sole, and the nozzle inserted into it. This allows you to melt polypropylene pipes, and solder them. The temperature on a homemade soldering iron is set to the maximum (should be 260-265 ℃). Having prepared all these parts and materials, it will be possible to begin the assembly.

First, the casing is dismantled from the iron, which allows access to its insides. Then the working part of the sole is cut off by means of a grinder, and in its place with an existing bolt, a duralumin plate cut to the shape of the base is attached. Next, from the spare parts of the designer, you need to assemble the box and securely fix it on the sole.

A toggle switch and a handle from a grinder are fixed on the elements of the box, after which one end of the network wire is connected to the switch. The second conductor, together with the outlet from the toggle switch, is connected to the heating coil through asbestos tubes.

Nozzles for fixing on polypropylene pipes will have to be purchased separately. If desired, a socket with a light bulb can be connected in parallel with the power circuit, the current through which must be limited by means of a quenching resistor. In order to make this simple design do-it-yourself will take a minimum of time.

With heating controller

To control the heating temperature homemade soldering iron for polypropylene pipes, install a thermocouple. To assemble a device equipped with a soleplate heating control, you will need additional details and spare parts, namely:

• thermostat, thermocouple and two tips;
• pointer indicator with a special scale (with "zero" and two sectors);
• conductors in insulation with a length of at least one meter each;
• asbestos wool.

Even before starting work, you should contact the turner and ask him to make two tips of a special shape (under the fitting and under the heater outlet). The dimensions of these tips are selected based on the diameter of the tube prepared for assembly.

The do-it-yourself assembly order of a soldering iron for polypropylene with a thermostat looks like this:

1. First, the casing is removed from the iron, after which the temperature controller is removed from its sole, as well as all unnecessary parts and wiring. After such disassembly, a clean ironing plate should remain.
2. Then, using a drill, holes are drilled in the tips with a diameter of about 6 millimeters, after which they are bolted to the body cleaned of foreign parts (from the “nose” side). On the opposite side of the sole, holes are drilled in it with a diameter suitable for mounting the thermocouple housing.
3. Wires about one meter long are soldered to the thermocouple. Following this, by means of the same conductors, the supply to the heating coil is carried out. All these wires are brought out through the hole in the iron handle. She herself is attached directly to the casing.
4. At the final stage of work, the space between the casing and the slab is filled with asbestos material (wool), which acts as a heat insulator. Upon completion of this operation, the casing is returned to its place, resulting in a casing with two pairs of conductors brought out.

These wires are connected to the mains plug and the thermostat according to a scheme that allows you to set the set value for the melting temperature of polypropylene (255-265 °).

Thermostat circuit and printed circuit board

Industrial designs with paired nozzles

For the manufacture of thermal nozzles of industrial soldering irons, special materials are used that conduct heat well (copper, aluminum alloys and the like).

Outside, they are covered with a special layer that prevents polypropylene from sticking (most often Teflon is used for this purpose).

Known samples of nozzles for soldering propylene pipes differ both in their shape and in the method of attachment to the heater, which can be various designs. In this case, preference is usually given to products that allow you to install paired nozzles (or several pairs of them at once).

The possibilities of such a device are significantly expanded, since it becomes universal in terms of its technical indicators.

The working dimensions of the soldering iron nozzles (their diameters) must correspond to the same indicator for polypropylene pipes and have values ​​​​from 16 to 110 millimeters.

Special nozzles with sizes from 20 to 32 millimeters should be included in the kit of any soldering iron that belongs to the category of semi-professional devices. Specialized models of soldering devices can be equipped with a large number of paired nozzles, the range of sizes of which is extended to 63 millimeters.

Soldering polypropylene pipes is remarkably easy to perform and forgives many mistakes without compromising the reliability of the pipeline. Our recommendations will help to do the work with your own hands.

In recent decades, metal-polymer pipes have become widespread for the manufacture of pipelines. They do not rust, do not overgrow with internal deposits, have low resistance to fluid flow, and are easy to install.

Polypropylene pipes after their appearance quickly gained popularity. According to their characteristics, they are comparable to any other metal-polymer pipes, but they have a huge advantage over them: polypropylene fittings from any manufacturer are fully compatible with each other.

Which pipes to choose

A conventional polypropylene pipe has a significant drawback that limits its scope: it greatly elongates when heated. To compensate for this thermal expansion, special expansion joints in the form of a loop are mounted on pipelines.

Reinforced polypropylene has a multilayer wall: the outer and inner layers are polypropylene, and between them is a layer of aluminum or fiberglass. For such products, the thermal elongation is approximately 10 times less. They can be walled up in walls and therefore it is worth choosing them for plumbing, although they are more expensive.

The labeling of polypropylene indicates the maximum pressure COLD WATER for which they are designed. For domestic plumbing, you should buy materials with the designation PN20 and PN25, which means a pressure of 20 and 25 atmospheres, respectively. The diameter of the plastic piping is generally chosen to be 20 mm (outer diameter), which is equivalent to ½ inch steel pipe(inner diameter). Do not be embarrassed that the flow area of ​​plastic pipes is sometimes chosen a little less than steel pipelines: the exceptionally smooth inner surface almost does not resist the flow of water and the performance of the pipe does not suffer.

Soldering tools

The main tool for soldering polypropylene pipes with your own hands – welding machine with nozzles of the required diameter. For one-time work, you can buy the cheapest soldering iron. Only the convenience of work depends on the price and design of the soldering iron, but not the quality of the connections obtained with it.

You will definitely need a special cutter in the form of scissors, since there is a lot to cut.

Of course, you will need a standard plumbing tool: adjustable and gas wrenches, linen, sealing paste. Polypropylene parts are connected to traditional steel parts by means of threaded combination couplings.

How to solder polypropylene

The principle of making welded polypropylene joints is simple: two parts are heated with a soldering iron until the material melts, then they are inserted one into the other; after cooling, we get a solid monolithic part.

By combining pipe sections of different lengths and connecting elements of various configurations, it is possible to assemble a pipeline of any complexity and branching.

Unacceptable errors when soldering pipes

The reliability of the resulting connection during do-it-yourself soldering of polypropylene pipes depends on the temperature to which the parts are heated. The plastic must be softened so that the elements to be welded are connected with some force and enter one into the other to the required depth.

• If the parts aren't heated enough, the plastic will begin to harden before you've even fully bonded them. Such a connection may not leak immediately, but it risks breaking even before the installation is completed.
• The overheated plastic is too soft and when joined, the hot surfaces of the parts will not press against each other with sufficient force: “unsoldered” places will appear and, almost certainly, such a joint will immediately begin to leak. Another problem may arise. If you overheat the parts, and then move them with excessive zeal, the molten mass of plastic will squeeze out into the pipe and completely block its lumen.

Sometimes there are recommendations to heat up the elements to be welded for a few seconds. This is not always effective, since the heating time depends on so many factors: the temperature of the soldering iron nozzle and the ambient temperature, the massiveness of the part and the diameter of the pipe, the refractoriness of a particular batch of polypropylene. If you don't have welding experience, it's wise to spend some time and practice.

There are several dozen places for soldering plastic pipes during the installation of a water supply system of medium complexity. And this is not surprising: each bend of the pipeline requires soldering twice, the branch consists of three welded joints.

And this is precisely the main difficulty of the whole work. In most cases, it is necessary to weld "in place". The configuration of the pipeline and the sequence of connecting its parts must be considered taking into account the fact that the connections are made with a very bulky soldering iron, which is also heated to a temperature of 300 degrees.

Safety

If you get acquainted in detail with the question of how to properly solder polypropylene pipes with your own hands, then you need to familiarize yourself with safety precautions, here are the basic rules:

• Be careful when working with a hot soldering iron to avoid burns.
• Hot polypropylene evaporates intensively. It is necessary to ensure sufficient ventilation in order to inhale less of its vapors.
• Remember about fire safety: do not leave a working soldering iron unattended and always put it on a special stand.
• Fill the finished pipeline with pressurized water and check the connections for tightness.

Video

To clearly show how to properly solder polypropylene pipes - a video to familiarize yourself with this process below.

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How to solder polypropylene pipes correctly - a guide for beginners

July 29, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior decoration, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

At first glance, there is nothing complicated in welding polypropylene pipes - the parts need to be heated to melt the plastic, and then connected. However, in reality, this operation contains a number of nuances on which the quality of the result depends. Therefore, further I will tell you how to properly solder polypropylene pipes, and we will also look at the most common mistakes that novice craftsmen make.

Pipe welding technology

Tools

Many owners of houses and apartments who are faced with the replacement of a pipeline are interested in how and how to solder polypropylene pipes themselves. After all, it is this type of "plastic" in recent times became the most common.

Before starting this work, you need to prepare the following tools:

Procedure

So, the instructions for soldering pipes are as follows:

1. First of all, you need to insert nozzles into the soldering iron and then turn it on. The device should warm up to operating temperature, then turn off and turn on again. Light indicators allow you to monitor the operation of the device;
2. while the soldering iron is heating up, you can prepare the pipe. To do this, its end must be inserted into a special device and the last turn. If the pipe is single layer, then this operation do not need to be performed;

1. the next stage is the most important - the fitting and the pipe connected to it must be inserted into the nozzles. The most important thing is to correctly position the pipes so that there are no distortions and withstand a strictly defined time. The latter depends on the pipes and the apparatus itself.
   Therefore, a table is included with each device, which indicates the heating time for pipes different diameter. As a rule, for pipes with a diameter of 25 mm, the time is 9-10 seconds. Pipes with a diameter of 32 mm warm up in 10-12 seconds.
   If, before soldering pipes made of polypropylene, they are overexposed more than necessary, they will deform or sagging will appear on the inner walls, which will reduce the pipeline's permeability;

1. after the time indicated in the table, you need to pull the parts out of the nozzles and connect them to each other. At the same time, it is important not to displace them relative to each other and wait until the plastic hardens.

If the device has a knob for setting the temperature, it should be set to 260 degrees.

This completes the joining process. According to this scheme, all the details of the pipeline are connected. Of course, before you start making it, you should practice on scraps and “fill your hand” a little.

Common Newbie Mistakes

Below we will take a closer look at these errors and how to avoid them.

Connection deformation

A professional installer, before soldering polypropylene pipes, will definitely wipe them. Moreover, it is necessary to pay attention to the cleanliness of the floor, since the parts to be connected are usually placed on the floor.

In most cases, when dismantling a poorly welded fitting, you can even see a strip of dirt. Also fatal for the connection is the presence of moisture. Even a few drops of water evaporate during the heating process, as a result of which it loses strength and deforms.

In the photo - the consequence of improper soldering

To remove moisture from the pipe, you need to pour salt into it. At the end of the work, the pipeline, of course, must be flushed.

The most unpleasant thing about such errors is that the connection can remain strong for some time and even undergo pressure testing. However, after some time, a leak will definitely appear in this place. Sometimes such flaws manifest themselves even after a year.

Therefore, starting work, first of all, you need to monitor cleanliness. Moreover, even the nozzles should be clean. Remains of polypropylene and other debris must be removed from their surface.

Wrong positioning

The main difficulty in welding lies in the rapid extraction of parts from the nozzles and connecting them to each other. This operation must be completed in a few seconds, but in general - the faster the better.

If you exceed the time limit, the strength of the connection will decrease. To avoid this mistake, you need, as mentioned above, just "fill your hand."

Also, novice craftsmen, immediately after connecting the parts, often try to remove the streaks. This can only be done after the connection has cooled down. Although, of course, it is better to prevent the formation of slush, i.e. do not overexpose parts in nozzles.

Incorrectly selected materials

First of all, it should be said that the price of pipes should not be a fundamental factor in their choice. If low-quality materials are purchased, then even the most skilled craftsman will not be able to guarantee you the strength and durability of the connections.

Another common mistake is joining parts from different manufacturers. The fact is that chemical composition polypropylene they may vary slightly. Accordingly, when heated, they can behave differently.

Violation of installation rules

Often the cause of poor welding is a banal violation of the rules of installation or carelessness of the mater. Such errors include:

• the pipe is not completely inserted into the fitting - this leads to the fact that a place appears with a wider diameter and a thinner wall than planned;
• too much pressing of the pipe into the fitting, resulting in deformation;
• soldering the fitting end-to-end - as a rule, craftsmen resort to this method if the fitting has deteriorated and there was no other at hand.

Thus, the key to the quality of soldering is accuracy and strict adherence to technology. Only in this case the pipeline will be able to serve for many years.

Here, in fact, are all the nuances of soldering polypropylene pipes, which I wanted to acquaint you with.

Welding polypropylene pipes provides the fastest and most reliable connection compared to other types of plastic pipes. The connection process is the same for any PP pipes, with the exception of reinforced pipes, which have their own characteristics during installation. The simplicity and accessibility of this type of work allows you to carry it out independently at home, subject to right technology welding and with the appropriate tools.

When installing polypropylene pipes, you can use one of three main types of connections:

1. diffusion soldering;
2. soldering with electrical fittings;
3. cold welding.

Let us consider in more detail all three types of PP pipe connections: their features, main advantages and disadvantages.

In this article:

Diffusion welding with an electric soldering iron

With this method of connecting pipes, a variety of additional fittings and a special electric heating apparatus (soldering iron) are used.

It comes with a set of removable pairs of attachments., the dimensions of which correspond to the outer diameters of the pipes and the inner diameters of the connecting elements.

Read about the most popular pipe diameter and other characteristics of polypropylene products.

A pair of nozzles is fixed on the thermo heating element electric soldering iron and with its help it is heated up to 260°C. Connecting parts are inserted into the heated nozzles for a few seconds. Due to this, heating and partial melting of the surfaces of the polypropylene elements in contact with the nozzles occur.

After that, the pipe and the additional element are quickly removed from the nozzles and inserted into each other. As a result, interpenetration (diffusion) of the molten surfaces of the parts occurs.

After cooling, they form a completely monolithic joint.

The advantages of this method:

• easy soldering process;
• low cost of additional elements;
• low cost of an electric soldering iron.

Flaws:

• the inconvenience of using an electrical appliance in hard-to-reach places.

Diffusion welding of polypropylene pipes is the most common self-assembly at home.

Connecting pipes using electrical fittings

Electrical fittings are various connectors of a special design, inside which there are built-in electric heaters with outward contacts.

During installation, the pipes are inserted and fixed fixedly in the electrical fitting. A welding machine is connected to the external contacts of the electrical fitting using wires, which supplies power to it in a pre-set automatic mode for a certain time.

As a result of the operation of the built-in electric heater, the inner surface of the electrical fitting is partially melted and the PP pipe is soldered to the connecting element.

The advantages of this method:

• fast and technologically simple process of pipe welding.

Flaw:

• high cost of connecting fittings and welding unit.

Soldering polypropylene pipes with electrical fittings is used by construction companies when performing large amounts of work. At home, this method is practically not used..

Cold welding of pipes is carried out with special glue. It has a special composition that softens the outer surfaces of the elements to be joined.

For this, the joints are preliminarily degreased, then a layer of glue is applied to them. After that, the parts are interconnected, fixed in the desired position and held for a certain time.

Learned pipe connection by cold welding not inferior in strength to diffusion thermal soldering.

Advantages:

• a simple technology that does not require the purchase of electric heating equipment.

Flaw:

• this method of connecting polypropylene pipes can only be used for cold water supply systems.

How to solder polypropylene pipes

Considering that almost no one uses electrical fittings and cold welding at home, further instructions will be devoted to self-welding polypropylene pipes using an electric soldering iron.

Tools and materials

For work you need to prepare:

• a special electric soldering iron with a set of nozzles of the appropriate diameter;
• special roller cutter (pipe shears) or saw;
• a file or a sharp knife to remove burrs on the ends of the pipes;
• measuring tape or ruler;
• a marker or crayon for marking the parts to be joined;
• mounting device for soldering pipes with a diameter of more than 40mm.

In addition to the PP pipes themselves and the connecting fittings, you will also need cotton rags and a liquid for degreasing the surfaces of the heating nozzles (acetone, alcohol, etc.).

Table of welding parameters and times

To provide best quality connections, certain rules must be followed. The value of the parameters indicated in the table depends on the diameter of the products and the ambient temperature.

Pipe soldering temperature: 260 degrees.

The duration of heating of the connected parts indicated in the table is given for an ambient temperature of 20°C. At lower temperatures, the heating time should be slightly longer.

Watch video: how to weld PP pipes

Step-by-step instruction

Do-it-yourself diffuse welding process is carried out in the following sequence:

• Step 1

Pipe cutter

Using a tape measure, a marker and a special pipe cutter or saw, a piece of pipe of the required size is measured and cut off. Before this, it is advisable to make a test cut of the pipe to make sure the sharpness of the tool.

The end chamfer is removed from the end of the pipe section and all burrs are removed.

With a pipe diameter of more than 40 mm, its end must be cut at an angle of 35-45 ° to prevent the formation of scuffs during soldering. Then an element of connecting fittings of the desired configuration is selected.

• Step #2

The parts to be joined are checked for any external defects. In this case, the pipe must fit snugly and completely into the connecting element without backlash and distortion. With a large backlash, another additional element is selected.

The surfaces to be joined are treated with a degreasing liquid.

At the end of the pipe, a marker marks the depth of entry into the connecting element, taking into account a gap of about 1 mm, which is necessary to prevent narrowing of the inner diameter of the pipe due to extrusion of its end edge during soldering.

The relative position of the parts in relation to each other is also noted.

• Step #3

The appropriate pair of heating nozzles of the required diameter, included in the electric soldering iron kit, is selected.

Their surfaces are cleaned with a degreasing liquid using a rag and the free entry of connecting parts into them without large play is checked.

• Step #4

The electric soldering iron is being prepared for work. To do this, the selected nozzles are fixed on its heating element, the soldering iron is installed on a stand and connected to the mains.

The required heating temperature must be set on the soldering iron thermostat.

• Step #5

We insert the pipes into the nozzles of the soldering iron

After heating the soldering iron to the desired temperature, as evidenced by its automatic shutdown by the thermostat, the connected polypropylene parts are inserted into the nozzles for a few seconds.

If the parts are difficult to enter the nozzles, then their slight axial rotation is allowed. In this case, first, a connecting element is put on the inner nozzle, and then the end of the pipe is inserted into the outer nozzle.

After heating, they are removed in reverse order. This is done because the connecting part has a large wall thickness and requires longer heating.

• Step #6

Smoothly insert the parts into each other

After the necessary warm-up, the parts are removed from the nozzles of the soldering iron and smoothly inserted into each other until the marks previously made with the marker coincide. Axial rotation of parts relative to each other is not allowed.

It is necessary to monitor the alignment of the resulting connection.

• Step #7

After joining, the parts must be held in a fixed position for a few seconds according to the above table of soldering parameters.

You can use the pipeline after 50-60 minutes after soldering.

In the event of any defects in the connection, this section of the pipe is cut off and a new soldering of the parts is carried out.

Soldering reinforced pipes

Seamstress for cleaning the edges of the pipe

PP pipes reinforced with an inner layer of aluminum or fiberglass are characterized by improved technical specifications according to operating pressure and temperature, therefore, they are most often used for heating and hot water systems.

When welding a pipe reinforced with an aluminum layer, before inserting it into the heating nozzle of an electric soldering iron, it is necessary to remove the outer polypropylene layer and the aluminum shell from the end of the pipe to the required length of the connection of parts.

This is done using a special pipe cutter or a sharp knife.

For soldering pipes reinforced with fiberglass, such an operation is not necessary.

Video: how to solder reinforced polypropylene pipes

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