Electric circuit of the iron aurora saturn. Iron repair: disassembly, typical malfunctions and how to fix them

Surprise, but the problem of how to disassemble the iron is the most difficult to repair. The manufacturer is trying to impose an official service. In the USSR, disassembling an iron was not an easy task. What to say about the current diversity. Soviet models were quite rough from an aesthetic point of view, the master is free not to worry appearance, modern models are beautiful, they reveal such a fragile case. Plastic parts, as if on purpose, are made from a grade of polymer that exhibits minimal flexibility and breaks easily.

We believe that steps are being taken, we will repeat in order to give work to service centers. Ordinary inhabitants are used to counting every penny, we want to do it with our own hands. So, the topic of today: how to disassemble the iron.

We disassemble the iron

Let's start, probably, with the promised Soviet iron. Immediately make a reservation, there is little in common with steam. We list the details that make up the iron with a quality mark in the form of a star inscribed in a pentagon:

1. Back cover.
2. Temperature regulator.
3. Power cable.
4. Sole.
5. The handle is often integral with the body.

Tool set

Inside the power block, the heating element of the sole, the thermostat and the thermal fuse. In the model UL-84, which we see in the photo, in the back of the sole there is a cover for quick access to the heating element. You see the lid with the iron upside down. Admire the power contacts of the heater. In the background is a gentleman's kit for opening household appliances. Let's explain. In the green case, a lot of tips, along with the typical TORX, you can see the incredible shape of the head. The set was bought in Moscow for about 800 - 1000 rubles. Adapter included. Today, bits are much cheaper, driven by dealer competition.

The heads do not fit the reversible screwdriver, which we will see here. Through the adapter, the tyutka enters the tyutka on the internal magnet. In the gray case you can see 6 slots for standard screwdriver heads. The cost of pleasure with a pen is hundreds of rubles, not more than 400. Why do we talk about the instrument for a long time? Every iron disassembly video begins with complaints about non-standard screw heads. Meanwhile, every man just needs to get a gentleman's set that allows you to promote spaceship. Moreover, readers probably purchased a drive with interchangeable heads. Buy a set of non-standard nozzles!

Having removed the back cover (photo number 2), we see: there are clearly no power bolts. It is seen:

• clamping bar with two screws;
• contacts going to the relay, one turn is broken by a bimetallic plate, adjustable by the mode knob.

It is clear that the input must be sought from the side of the temperature controller. Gently pry the handle with two screwdrivers from the sides, it will fly out with a terrible crack. The regulator was held by two steel spring clips, clinging to the groove. Nothing criminal. Look at the photo, it looks scary, it has been working for almost half a century. Will Philips, Vitek, Tefal, Braun, Bosch give such a guarantee? Draw your own conclusions. You see two power bolts, unscrew immediately!

To remove the sole, let's disassemble the contact block shown in the second photo. In the last image we see an adjustable bimetallic plate. To protect against incorrect fitting of the regulator during assembly, an asymmetry in the shape of the hole is noted. Disassembly completed. The power of the device is 1 kW, the winding resistance should be 50 ohms. It will be carried out at any position of the thermostat, as long as the contacts are closed.

Of course, if necessary, we will adjust the bimetallic plate. Plus pliers are used skillful hands. By bending the metal, we change the temperature of the relay operation. Disconnect the heating element by disassembling the contacts in photo number 2. Check the resistance short circuit relay. Great - clean the contacts, grind.

Disassemble imported steam iron

We avoid saying that it is easy to disassemble the Tefal iron, we will give typical tricks.

The device of a modern iron

Modern three-tier irons, typical composition:

1. The handle, which is integral with the tank.
2. Housing that protects the tank from hot soles.
3. A sole with a boiler, the holes releasing steam.

The assemblies are structurally uniform. It is often not possible to disassemble parts without breakage. The handle is glued to the tank, the body is a single piece of plastic, the method of welding the boiler and the sole is generally difficult to identify.

Under the body is a compartment of electronic elements. Thermostat represented by a bimetallic plate. A thermal fuse is visible nearby, usually molded through a heat-resistant fabric onto the tank wall, or right next to the heating element. Accordingly, the element setting may be 140 degrees or higher, for example. It is determined by the overheating protection implementation scheme, iron model. You can recognize the thermal fuse by the mounting bracket, by the eloquent inscriptions on the case, leading admissible current(optional), response temperature.

Replace the thermal fuse with the same one. To disassemble the Braun Freestyle corded iron, you will need to pull the cord with electronic filling back. According to the tips above, first remove the rear screws, then the bow. Finally, we remove the sprinkler located in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe steam boost buttons. Cord, electronic part are held by plastic cloves. Handle, tank, sole almost one piece. However, in the bow we notice a couple of power screws. Act according to the circumstances.

The design, we believe, has become the basis of wireless irons. Power contacts are made detachable. You can remove-put the sole with a tank, a handle in place when you want. No disassembly. Although any wireless iron works in cycles: n seconds tyrannizes the stand, m seconds irons clothes, there are no timers inside (signal LEDs are on). Works controlled by a bimetallic plate. A green light is included in the sole circuit, a second high position contact is created for the red one. Follow the traffic lights. Green means you can. Red? It's time to put the iron to gain strength.

Models with a built-in battery have been created, of course, they weigh more. Not everyone can call quality a virtue. But battery life lasts longer. For ordinary expensive cordless irons, the cycle is something like 24 - 5. The ironing time is five times longer than the rest. Disassembling a cordless iron is no more difficult than a wired one.

We add that wireless irons are not uncommon: Tefal, Philips. Recently, Panasonic appeared on the market. The real news is, Tefal is not popular in America. Panasonic boasts a handy carrying case. They forgot to inspect what is sold by Russia, overseas, the Japanese most ergonomic iron among wireless models. Released in India, it's hard to buy even on e-bay.

By the way, hold off thinking too badly about the homeland of the Buddha. A good part of the world's population lives, earning a lot of money with software.

We hope we have taught readers how to disassemble the iron. They gave typical techniques that are used everywhere. Create universal instruction impossible how to iterate over numerous models. Individual copies of one manufacturer can be strikingly different from others presented on the market. We say goodbye, we are waiting for comments, see photos, evaluate, compare, learn how to disassemble irons with your own hands.

Iron - quite simple home appliance, consisting of a heating element, a light bulb showing the operation of the modes, a water tank used for steaming, a control button and a knob. It is an essential item, it cannot be replaced by something else. That's why it's so annoying to break. If you have iron stopped working, do not repair it yourself, because it is not entirely safe. In addition, it is important to correctly define causes of iron failure. With an incorrect definition, there is a high probability of damage to the remaining components of the device.

Let's take a look at the common causes of iron failure:

So, iron broke. What to do?

Is it worth doing it yourself? Self-repair of the iron is often associated with scratches and cracks on the body, which may cause the thermostat or handle to fall out. The device may be damaged so severely that it will no longer be possible to repair it. Not everyone, even a technically advanced person, has everything the right tools for diagnostics and repair of the device, and even more so the necessary spare parts. Often, self-repair of the iron ends with its complete disassembly. In this form, it is brought to the service center, which greatly increases the cost of repairs. If a iron stopped working we advise you to contact the service center. The quality and duration of the further operation of the device depends on the level of professionalism and knowledge of the master who is engaged in the repair of equipment. We do not recommend contacting friends who supposedly know how repairs are done, or private craftsmen in order to save money. Large companies that legally offer home appliance repair services provide high quality repair. Here you are protected by law and therefore you can not worry about anything.

Our specialists carry out the repair of irons of various complexity, regardless of what were causes of iron failure and offer repair services for any damage.

One of the indispensable attributes in the house is an electric iron. Since ancient times, its design has been constantly improved. It all started with the use of improvised means - stones, dies, heated tacks. Then there were irons, working using hot coal, alcohol, gas. Since 1903, the American Earl Richardson began producing the first electrical appliances.

The design of a modern electric iron

If the iron has stopped heating and the warranty has already expired, you can try to fix it yourself. To do this, you need to know how to properly disassemble the iron. Modern devices differ from each other mainly in design, and in design they have slight differences. Let's list the components:

Possible Troubleshooting

You need to start troubleshooting by checking power cord. It is constantly twisted during ironing. To check the integrity of the wire and plug, you must use a multimeter in continuity mode. If the chain breaks, you need to buy a new one.

Then the integrity of the heating element is checked, which is located in the so-called sole, is the heaviest part. The cord is also checked for the integrity of the circuit.

If you already have repair experience, then you can check the heater, bimetallic regulator and thermal fuse from the terminal block. To see it, you need to remove only the back cover. If the heater burns out, then you need to decide which is more profitable - order the sole of this model or buy new device. A defective bimetal regulator and a thermal fuse can be replaced by yourself.

Phased disassembly of the device

Manufacturers, including Philips, are constantly working to complicate the design in order to make self-disassembly more difficult. But folk craftsmen find a way out in this case too. Here is an example of how to disassemble a philips azur iron:

Dismantling the philips iron begins with unscrewing the screw on the back cover. It can be covered with a cap. Next, remove the cover with the power cord hinge. Then unscrew the two screws from the end that were under the cover, one on top and two on the bottom. Another one in front under the lid where water is poured. After that, remove the upper overhead part of the handle. If the pad is with latches, carefully, using a knife or screwdriver, carefully move them aside and lift the handle pad.

Underneath is the electronic control board. If it is fixed, then unscrew the fastening screw.

In order not to get confused when assembling, it is desirable to record or film the disassembly process. Remove the wires from the terminal block. Everything removed is pushed aside. Now you need to remove the temperature control knob. Using a knife and a screwdriver, lift it up. Remove the main part of the handle. Under it is a steam generator chamber and a sole with a heating element. It is necessary to unscrew the two bolts at the back and one at the front and remove the steam chamber.

Now you have access to the temperature controller, thermal fuse and heating element. A lot of different dirt accumulates in this part, which adversely affects the operation of the iron. The entire surface must be thoroughly cleaned. Check and if necessary clean all water and steam channels of the sole.

It is more difficult to check the electronic board on which the motion sensor is located. Here you need the skill of repairing electronic equipment. If the board is not filled with epoxy, visually determine where the two ends from the sensor are and ring them.

The state of the circuit depends on the vertical or horizontal position of the board. After checking the integrity of the removed parts, you can proceed to assemble the iron in the reverse order.

irons like Appliances appeared a long time ago. They were bulky, heavy and inconvenient to use. The advantage of these devices was their "indestructibility" due to the simplicity of the design. They became unusable only when hot coal burned through their metal bottom.

Today, an iron is a high-tech device consisting of several nodes that have fine tuning and coherence.

Rice. 1. Repairable iron

When all this is violated, the device junks and eventually fails. This happens due to various reasons. Incorrect operation, falling of the device, use of chlorinated water for the steam generator and much more. As a result, such desired device turns into a useless piece of plastic and metal.

What to do if your favorite device stops heating? The main thing is not to panic, but try to return the iron to its working capacity. Often the cause of the problem is minor and easily fixable.

Below, the article will describe the troubleshooting of an electric iron and how to fix it and repair it yourself.

Of the tools, you only need a Phillips screwdriver, a multimeter or ohmmeter and small pliers called "ducks".

Although this iron does not have a steam generator, it circuit diagram and the design is practically no different from the first. Therefore, the method for diagnosing and repairing the electrical part is identical for them.

In photo 2, a device that does not heat up when it is connected to the network and the thermostat wheel is rotated.

Mains voltage is present, visually the cord and plug have no visible damage.

Judging by the tag (Figure 3), the power of the device is 1000 watts. This is not a big figure, since there are instances with a power of up to 2500 watts. The more watts the iron consumes, the faster it heats up, but the more current passes through its circuits and contacts. Therefore, such devices are more likely to be subject to conditions under which they fail.

As with many irons, you should start by removing the back cover of the case (Figure 4). It rests on one screw, located exactly in the middle of the cover.

Loosen this screw using a Phillips screwdriver.

After the screw is removed, the cover will be removed freely and you will be able to see the incoming electrical circuits of the iron.

For ease of installation, there is a terminal block inside (Figure 6), to which the incoming cable comes. On the other side of the terminal block, the wires go deeper into the device.

With a high power of the iron in this place, wires may burn out or the terminal block body will melt. The fact is that this method of clamping with screws is not entirely reliable, since over time the connection heats up and the screw loosens.

In this case, the connection heats up even more and as a result the wire burns out. And this place is often the weak link in electrical circuit device.

But everything looks great in the photo. No hints of heating, let alone a broken wire. Most likely, this is due to the low power of the heater.

But in order to make it convenient to disassemble in the future, it is necessary to remove the cord clamp, which is held on by two screws.

Using the same Phillips screwdriver, unscrew one screw and loosen the other.

When the cord is released, pull it out and unscrew the case screws.

Now let's move on to the front. Both screws in this location are under the water container. This is an ordinary spray bottle, for irrigating clothes before ironing.

To remove it, press the release button (Figure 9) and remove the atomizer itself. Next, take out the water container.

Under it, two screws are hidden that fasten the case to the sole of the iron. We unscrew one, and then the second screws.

After these manipulations, the top cover can be easily removed.

Only the sole with a protective cover and electrical circuits remains.

Photo 15 shows that the indicator lamp is moving away from the terminal block.

It should signal the operation of the iron when the mains voltage is applied directly to the heater.

In the center is the thermostat slider (Figure 16) with an oblique guide cut. This cut is necessary for docking the regulator wheel on the top cover with the temperature sensor engine.

We take out the neon lamp from the seat (Figure 17) and unscrew the three screws securing the protective cover of the sole (Figure 18).

Next, you need to disconnect the wires going under the casing, otherwise they will interfere. The wires, both incoming and outgoing, have the appropriate color, so there is no need to mark them before disconnecting.

But before that, we check if the problem is in the cord. To do this, we connect the terminals of a device capable of testing the circuit with blue and brown wires (Figure 19). These colors correspond to the phase and zero of the 220 V network. We turn the thermostat slider first in one direction and then in the other direction.

The device does not show anything, which means that the break is further under the protective cover.

Unscrew all wire clamps one by one.

After removing the wires from the clamps, carefully remove the protective cover.

We put it aside and again take the chain pointer. We connect its ends with the conclusions of the heater or heating element. The device shows that the heating element is intact, and this good news, as it is pressed into the soleplate of the iron.

The only thing left is the temperature controller.

A brown wire comes to one of its outputs, which comes directly from the network. Having connected the device to this output of the temperature sensor (Figure 23), as well as to the white wire that goes to its second contact, we turn the regulator again.

Nothing happens, so the thermostat is faulty.

What can be done in this case? The simplest thing is to replace the regulator. But finding the same one will most likely be problematic, especially a working one.

Some short-circuit the temperature sensor with a piece of wire, thus removing it from the circuit.

But this is not an option, because best case overheated, the iron may burn delicate fabrics. And at worst, the whole apartment or house, if it is accidentally left plugged into the network. Therefore, a direct connection is not an option.

What then can be done? Just adjust the bimetal plate of the thermostat. If you look closely, you can see that the thermal relay contacts are open in any position of the regulator knob.

But if you press your finger on the bimetallic plate, the contacts will close at some point. So you need to bend the plate a little and everything should work.

We take the “ducks” and, having captured the bimetal plate with them, slightly rotate it counterclockwise (Figures 24 and 25).

This should be done as carefully as possible and in the middle position of the thermostat engine. At some point, a click will be heard, and the contacts will close.

We take measurements after completion (Figure 26). It can be seen that the contact part of the temperature sensor closes.

Now we get the wires into the hole in the casing and stretch them with our fingers from the other side. We also carefully lay out the wires. We put on the upper part of the case and clamp the screws for its fastening.

It is very important that when connecting the body to the sole (Figure 31), the axis of the regulator wheel fits exactly into the cut on the thermal relay engine.

To check if these two parts are connected correctly, you need to turn the regulator wheel in different directions. If it is fixed in two directions, then everything is connected correctly and assembly can continue.

We fix the case with screws and put the container with the spray gun.

Rice. 34. Put back the back cover

We turn on the iron in the network and rotate the wheel.

In photo 35, you can see that the iron has turned on and is heating up.

At some point, he himself turned off, gaining the desired temperature.

We spin the wheel to the maximum, and it turned on again. We can assume that the regulator is working correctly and will not fail at the right time. On this repair can be considered completed.

It should be remembered that all work must be carried out with the device disconnected from the mains.

If the iron stops heating, you can buy a new one, but often the damage is not very serious and you can fix it yourself. If you know how to work with a screwdriver and a multimeter, you can handle it. We will talk about how to repair the iron with your own hands in this article.

General device

Since irons are produced by very diverse companies, they differ slightly - in shape, heating rate, quality of spare parts, etc. But here general device stays the same. Available:

• A sole with the heating element built in it. If there is a steamer function, there are a number of holes in the soleplate for steam to escape.
• Thermostat with a handle that allows you to set the required heating temperature of the sole.
• Container/reservoir for water, which is used for steaming.
• There is a nozzle for spraying water, forced steam output. There is also a steam intensity regulator. With its help, the frequency of automatic supply of evaporated water is set.
• The iron is connected to the network using an electric cord, which is attached to the terminal block located in the back under a plastic cover.

General device of an electric iron

After you have in general terms familiarized yourself with what is where, you can start repairing the iron with your own hands.

What will be needed for work

To work, you will need a set of screwdrivers - Phillips and flat. You will need a wide knife or an unnecessary plastic card - pry off parts of the iron with latches. To check the integrity of the parts, you will need a multimeter (read how to use it here). You may also need a soldering iron - this is if you have to change some parts.

Tools that may be needed when repairing an iron

Of the tools, everything, but in the process of work, sometimes you need electrical tape or heat-shrink tubing, you may need sandpaper, pliers.

How to disassemble an iron

The first difficulty faced by those who want to repair the iron on their own is disassembly. This is far from simple and obvious. The easiest way is to remove the back panel. There are a few screws that are visible and which are difficult to unscrew. In addition to screws, there may be latches. So, having unscrewed all the visible fasteners, we pry off the cover with the tip of a screwdriver or an old plastic card, and separate the cover from the case.

Under it, a terminal block is found to which the cord is attached. If there are problems with the cord, you can not disassemble the iron further. But if everything is fine with the cord, you will have to disassemble it further, and this may cause problems.

In some irons - Philips (Philips), Tefal (Tefal) there are still bolts under the cover. We twist them too. In general, if we see a fastener, we remove it.

Remove the back cover - the first thing to do when disassembling the iron

How each manufacturer develops its own design, and it often changes from model to model. That is why difficulties arise. But there are a few points that are found in almost any manufacturer.

Immediately you need to remove the temperature control dial and the steam supply buttons, for which they must be clamped in your fingers and pulled up. There may be latches in the buttons, so you may need something thin so that you can wring them out a little - you can pry with a screwdriver.

To disassemble the iron, you need to remove the buttons

In some irons, such as Rowenta, as in the photo, there are bolts on the handle (there are some Scarlet models). If there are, we unscrew them. A screw is also hidden under the removed buttons, we also unscrew it. Then remove the top plastic parts. They are usually fastened with latches. To make it easier to remove them, you can insert a knife blade or a piece of plastic (plastic card) into the lock.

There are usually a number of bolts under the covers. Having unscrewed them, we continue disassembling until the body and sole are separated. Unfortunately, it is impossible to give more accurate recommendations - there are too different designs. What can be advised - to act slowly and carefully. And a few videos on how to disassemble irons of different brands.

Power cord

Power cord failure is a fairly common type of breakdown. With such damage, the iron may not turn on at all or work in fits and starts, the soleplate may not heat up well. The cord can bend, curl, the insulation is damaged at the bend, some wires can fray completely or partially. If there is such damage, it is better to replace the cord, regardless of whether it is the cause or not. In any case, all places with damaged insulation must be insulated.

In case of any damage, any repair of the iron begins with a cord check. To accurately determine whether it is in a normal state or not, it must be called. To do this, just remove the back cover. The terminal block to which the cord is connected will become available. You will need a tester or multimeter. We put it in the dialing mode, press one probe to one contact of the plug, with the second we touch one of the wires on the block. When you touch the "correct" wire, the multimeter should beep. This means that the wire is intact.

Checking the integrity of the power cord

The color of the insulation of the conductors can be any, but yellow-green is necessarily grounding (it must be checked by placing the probe on a small metal plate at the bottom of the plug). The other two are connected to the pins of the plug. Here one of these two wires should ring with the pin to which you pressed the multimeter probe. We repeat the same operation with another pin.

To be completely sure that the cord is in good condition, you need to wrinkle / twist it during the dialing. Especially in those places where there are problems with insulation. If the squeak from such actions is interrupted, it is better to replace the cord. It is also subject to replacement if one or both pins “do not ring”. You may be lucky and you will not need further repair of the iron.

Checking the performance of the heating element

If the iron does not heat up at all, the heating element may have burned out. If this is the case, then it is worth buying a new iron, since a replacement will cost almost the same amount. But first of all, you need to make sure that it is the heater that is to blame.

These are the outlets of the heating element of the iron

In order to check the heating element, we get to the very sole of the iron. On it, closer to the back, there are two outlets for the heating element. We translate the multimeter into the position of measuring resistance (up to 1000 Ohms), we take measurements. If the display shows numbers of the order of 25 ohms, then the heating element is normal, if more, it burned out. As already mentioned, in the event of a heating element burnout, it is not worth repairing the iron - it is more profitable to buy a new one.

Checking the thermostat

The thermostat looks like a plate with a group of contacts and a protruding plastic pin, on which a disk is then put on.

This is an iron thermostat.

There are two contacts on the plate. We install the probes of the multimeter on them and check the performance (we call). In the “off” position, the sound of the multimeter should disappear, when turned on and turned to any position, it should continue to sound.

The damage may lie in the fact that in the “on” position there is still no contact - then the iron does not heat at all. There may be a different situation - it is not turned off by the regulator and / or does not respond to the position of the regulator. Both reasons are in contacts. And, most likely, they burned.

In the first case, carbon deposits can interfere, which can be cleaned off by putting a piece of fine-grained sandpaper between the contacts and a couple of times and “crawl” over the contacts. If there is no sandpaper, you can use a nail file, but you must act carefully - the temperature settings depend on the bending of the plates. So you can't bend them too much.

In the second case - if the iron does not turn off - the contacts may have burned out - fused. Iron repair in this case consists in an attempt to separate them. But such a focus rarely succeeds. The solution is to replace it.

Thermostat from a different angle

There may be another point: when falling, the contacts could somehow interlock. When the sole of the iron is heated, the curving thermoplate presses on the contact groups, but the contacts cannot open. The result is the same - the iron does not turn off when heated. Iron repair is also similar - we are trying to restore mobility to the plates, trying not to bend them. If it doesn't work, we change it.

Fuse check

Approximately in the same area where the thermostat is located, a thermal fuse is installed. It stands in case of overheating of the soleplate of the iron - it burns out if the iron is heated to dangerous temperatures. Usually a protective tube is put on this fuse and most often it is white.

Iron repair: fuse and its continuity

Find contacts, call. In the normal state, the fuse "rings", if blown - silence. If desired, you can move the handset, ring directly - there may be a break / burnout of the connecting wire. If the fuse is blown, unsolder it, look for a similar one and install it in place.

It is not worth excluding the thermal fuse from the circuit - it will save you from fire in case of problems with the thermostat: it will simply burn out and the iron will not work. And although the iron will require repair, your home will be safe.

Steam spray system

If almost no steam comes out of the iron, and there is water in the container, most likely the holes are clogged with salts. Restoring performance can be done with a simple trick. Pour water and vinegar (regular, table) into dishes with low burs (a frying pan is suitable). One glass of vinegar per liter of water. The second recipe is for 250 ml of boiling water 2 teaspoons of citric acid. In a bowl with the prepared liquid, lower the switched off iron. The liquid should cover the sole.

Cleaning the steam outlets on the iron

Put the container with the iron on the fire, bring to a boil, turn it off. Wait until it cools down. Warm up again. So you can repeat 3-4 times. Until the salts dissolve.

Sometimes water stops flowing from the sprinkler. Most likely, this is due to the fact that the tube is disconnected. In this case, the repair of the iron consists in dismantling the panel on which the injection buttons are fixed and reinstalling all tubes and wires.

The second way to descale the iron is to disassemble it completely so that only one soleplate remains. Seal the sole with tape so that water does not seep through, but you can also put it in a bowl. Pour inside the sole hot water with vinegar or citric acid, stand until cool, drain, pour again. Continue like this until you are satisfied with the result. Then rinse with water and collect.

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