The Expert Community for Bathroom Remodeling

Pinout of Jack (TRS) connectors. The maximum allowable current for copper wires 2 5 mm where

Hello.

Any modern multimedia device (computer, laptop, player, phone, etc.) has audio outputs: for connecting headphones, speakers, a microphone, and other devices. And it would seem that everything is simple - I connected a device to the audio output and it should work.

But everything is not always so easy ... The fact is that the connectors on different devices are different (although sometimes they are very similar to each other)! The vast majority of devices use connectors: jack, mini-jack and micro-jack (jack in English means "jack"). That's about them and I want to say a few words in this article.

Mini-Jack connector (diameter 3.5 mm)

Rice. 1. mini jack

Why did I start with a mini-jack? It is simply the most popular connector that can only be found in modern technology. Found in:

  • - headphones (moreover, both with a built-in microphone and without it);
  • - microphones (amateur);
  • - various players and phones;
  • - speakers for computers and laptops, etc.

Connector Jack (diameter 6.3 mm)

It is much rarer than mini-Jack, but nevertheless quite common in some devices (more, of course, in professional devices than in amateur ones). For example:

  • microphones and headphones (professional);
  • bass guitars, electric guitars, etc.;
  • sound cards for professionals and other audio devices.

Micro-Jack connector (diameter 2.5mm)

The smallest connector listed. Its diameter is only 2.5 mm and it is used in the most portable technology: phones and players. True, in recent times, even they began to use a mini-jack in order to increase the compatibility of the same headphones with PCs and laptops.

Mono and stereo

Rice. 4. 2 contacts - Mono; 3 pins - stereo

Please also note that the jack connectors can be either mono or stereo (see Fig. 4). In some cases, this can cause a lot of problems ...

For most users, the following will suffice:

  • mono - this means for one sound source (you can only connect a mono speaker);
  • stereo - for several sound sources (for example, left and right speakers, or headphones. You can connect both mono and stereo speakers);
  • quad - practically the same as stereo, only two more sound sources are added.

Headset jack in laptops for connecting headphones with a microphone

In modern laptops, a headset jack is increasingly common: it is very convenient for connecting headphones with a microphone (there is no extra wire). By the way, on the body of the device, it is usually indicated as follows: a picture of headphones with a microphone (see Fig. 5: on the left - outputs for a microphone (pink) and headphones (green), on the right - a headset jack).

By the way, the plug for connecting to such a connector should have 4 pins (as in Fig. 6). I talked about this in more detail in my previous article:

Rice. 6. Plug for connecting to the headset jack

How to Connect Speakers, Microphone or Headphones to Computer

If you have the most common sound card on your computer, then everything is quite simple. On the back of the PC, you should have 3 outputs, as in fig. 7 (at least):

  1. Microphone (microphone) - marked pink. Needed to connect a microphone.
  2. Line-in (blue) - used, for example, to record sound from some device;
  3. Line-out (green) - this is a headphone or speaker output.

Problems most often occur when, for example, you have headset headphones with a microphone and there is no such output on your computer ... In this case, there is dozens of different adapters : there is, including an adapter from the headset jack to the usual ones: Microphone and Line-out (see Fig. 8).

Also, a fairly common problem is the lack of sound (most often after reinstalling Windows). The problem in most cases is due to the lack of drivers (or the installation of the wrong drivers). I recommend using the recommendations from this article:

You may also be interested in the following articles:

  1. - connecting headphones and speakers to a laptop (PC):
  2. - extraneous sound in speakers and headphones:
  3. - quiet sound (how to increase the volume):

Greetings to all who looked at the light. The review will focus, as you probably already guessed, on very useful adapters / adapters / extension cords for connecting to various audio equipment. In the review, I will try to talk about what a headset and headphones are, how they differ and in what ways they can be connected to different connectors. If you are interested, you are welcome under cat.

General view of the monitored adapters:


A few words about cables and adapters:

All reviewed adapters are designed for the TRS audio connector, which stands for English as Tip (tip), Ring (ring), Sleeve (sleeve) in accordance with the shape of the contacts. Despite such a short name, another name has taken root among the people - "Jack", which in English means "nest". There are quite a few varieties of this connector, both in terms of the number of contacts and in size (photo from the Internet):


It is clearly seen from the picture that Jack is the largest, microJack is the most compact, by analogy with SIM cards, where the usual SIM cards for smartphones are considered microSIM and even nanoSIM.
These connectors are intended mainly for connecting cables and transmitting an audio signal, but there are also implementations for transmitting a video signal (for example, a reverse camera for GPS recorders), or for connecting low-power power sources (PSU with a two-pin TS / micro / miniJack connector). On my own behalf, I’ll add that the older ones get together (Jack) are found in professional sound reproducing equipment, for the most part due to more robust design and better electrical characteristics, although with the ubiquity of digital audio, they are gradually losing their relevance.
In this review, I will talk about the four most common options for home use:
- three-pin miniJack 3.5mm - hereinafter referred to as miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm
- four-pin miniJack 3.5mm - hereinafter referred to as miniJack (TRRS) 3.5mm
- three-pin microJack 2.5mm - hereinafter miniJack (TRS) 2.5mm
- four-pin microJack 2.5mm - hereinafter referred to as miniJack (TRRS) 2.5mm

It is easy to guess that they differ in diameter (2.5mm vs 3.5mm) and the presence of an additional (fourth) contact, which the headset needs to control buttons and a microphone. I would like to note that headphones and a headset are completely different things, and the main difference between them is that the latter have a built-in microphone and control buttons (volume, calls). Thanks to this, it is possible to control some smartphone functions through the headset by pressing the appropriate buttons. Headphones, in turn, do not have buttons and are only suitable for playing an audio signal. You can determine what exactly you are using by visual signs: on one of the wires going to the “ears” there is a control block with buttons, a four-pin connector (TRRS), and when connected to a gadget, a headphone icon with a microphone is displayed in the notification area . This is more clearly shown in the picture below (photo from the Internet):


For those who are not in the know, the principle of operation of the headset control buttons is quite simple: inside the case there is a small control board, which, with different combinations of buttons, produces different resistance. There are only two wires at the output, one of which is common with the headphones (ground). The smartphone reads the resistance and issues the desired command. The same principle works, for example, steering control buttons in the car.
One of the possible schemes for implementing a three-button headset:


Everything would be fine, but there is one caveat - there are two main headset wiring standards on the market - OMTP (old) and CTIA (new). If the soldering standards of the headset and the smartphone are the same, all functions will work; if they do not match, the sound will be “muffled”, the buttons and the microphone will not work. Most modern smartphones and headsets are made according to the new CTIA standard, but there are also options with the old wiring standard.
I would also like to note an important feature: in the four-pin socket (TRRS) without any problems and consequences for the gadget, all headphones with a three-pin pin (TRS) work, i.e. when connecting headphones to a smartphone, the operation of the systems is not disturbed. In the opposite case, i.e. when connecting to a three-pin socket (TRS), a headset with a four-pin pin (TRRS), for example, a headset to a tablet, there are no failures in the electronics either, only additional (push-button) functions of the headset and microphone are missing. As they say, backward compatibility is preserved.
This concludes the introductory part. Below in the review, adapter options for both headsets and headphones will be considered.

Extension cable miniJack (TRRS) 3.5mm (male) ->

The first in line is a high-quality miniJack (TRRS) 3.5mm extension cable (male) -> miniJack (TRRS) 3.5mm (female):


This extension cable features a 90° angled plug, a very robust design and full support for the CTIA (Samsung) headset wiring standard. In other words, using this extension cord, all the functions of the headset will be preserved when connected to a modern smartphone.
I have had this extension for a long time. I bought it after purchasing my "old man" Samsung Galaxy S3 (SGS3) in order to minimize the load on the smartphone and headset connector when listening to music. If I'm not mistaken, it was supplied in a similar bag:


Despite the meager packaging, the extension cord is of high quality and has been serving for many years, although now I do not use it so often. The cable is marked 2725 AWM 80C 30V VW-1 LL58663 CU CSA:


You can see a little more about decoding the markings in my previous review of USB 3.0 cables. I will only note that the cable has been certified, the cable manufacturer is Cablemax, the cable type is Multiple-conductor cable using non-integral jacket. As mentioned earlier, there are absolutely no complaints about the device: the connector/socket bodies are fused into a strong insulator, the cable is thick enough, the connector contacts are gold-plated (coated with titanium nitride) to protect against oxidation. The main purpose of this extension cord is to protect the connector, as well as the headset / headphone wires from bending. On modern smartphones with the CTIA headset wiring standard (“under Samsung”), when using this extension cord, all headset functions are preserved. For example, when listening to music, you can switch tracks forward / backward, stop / play a track, and answer an incoming call using the microphone built into the headset. No flaws were found, so I definitely recommend to buy!

Extension miniJack (TRRS) 3.5mm (male) -> miniJack (TRRS) 3.5mm (female):

The next in line is a similar miniJack (TRRS) 3.5mm (male) -> miniJack (TRRS) 3.5mm (female) extension cable, but already under the OMTP headset wiring standard (the old standard or “for Nokia”):


I bought this extension cord out of ignorance, so the headset functions are not available in the SGS3 smartphone. If I'm not mistaken I bought
In appearance it is similar to the previous one - the same four contacts both on the plug and in the socket, but the main difference lies in the internal wiring (see "Introduction"). In this regard, when the headset is connected to modern smartphones, additional functions do not work, i. the headset turns into regular headphones, the sound becomes “muffled”.
There are no special comments on the quality, except that there is no marking on the cable, and its thickness is much less than the previous one. In addition, the plug here is not angular:


Despite the rather frail cable, the connector/jack housings are fused into a fairly strong insulator, and the connector contacts themselves are gold-plated (coated with titanium nitride) to protect against oxidation.
In general, the extension cable is good, but only relevant for older phone models.

Extension cable miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm (male) ->

This is one of the simplest extension cords, designed to connect headphones or a headset to various electronic gadgets or a computer. It is designed for audio signal transmission only, the additional functions of the headset will not work, because. the fourth wire (contact) is missing. This extension has a three-pin plug/socket (TRS), cable length 3m:


I bought
As far as I remember, an extension cord was supplied in a simple bag:


Despite its simplicity, the quality of the extension cord is excellent: the cable is covered with a fabric braid to protect it from stretching, the connector/jack housings are fused into a sufficiently strong insulator, and the connector contacts themselves are gold-plated (coated with titanium nitride) to protect against oxidation. I used it for a long time when connecting a headset from an SGS3 smartphone ("earbuds") to system unit computer, since the length of the headset wires was a little less than a meter and they were simply not enough. The extension cable has repeatedly withstood the impact of a computer chair roller, there were no wire breaks, so if you are looking for a sufficiently long and high-quality headphone extension cable, I recommend it!

Extension cable miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm (male) -> miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm (male):

This is a rather specific, but sometimes indispensable cable for connecting various audio signal sources to radio / tape recorders / computer:


I bought this cable a long time ago in local stores. In appearance, this one is suitable, which you can buy
One of the main home applications of this extension cable is to connect capture cards to the input of a computer sound card, i.e. from the audio output of the board to the audio input of the sound card. Now this lesson has somewhat lost its relevance, but in the distant 2000s it was relevant. At that time, I had a TV tuner (video capture card) LifeView 2000, for connection I just needed a monitored cable (it was included). Another application is the digitization of audio recordings, but at this time this activity is devoid of any meaning.
Cable length - 70cm, at both ends - three-pin miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm:


There are practically no complaints about the quality, except that the connector contacts are not gold-plated. The cable is strong enough, the connectors are firmly fused. At one time, I used it in a car, first connecting a simple MP3 player, and then a smartphone to the AUX input of a standard head unit (radio), which did not support MP3 format and external drives (memory cards and flash drives):


The quality was quite satisfactory, but the connection was not very convenient. Devices had to be recharged, and the loose wire was a nuisance. Therefore, after some time I purchased an FM modulator, and when I moved to another city, I finally realized that it was easier to take a normal radio tape recorder, because all kinds of pickups from trolleybus tracks nullified the use of the modulator. I apologize for a small opus, but I used this extension cord quite often: both in the heat and in the cold, so I vouch for the quality.

Splitter / extension miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm (male) ->

Next comes a rather specific splitter / extension miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm (male) to two miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm jacks (mother):


You can buy this extension
Unfortunately, the connector/splitter sockets are three-pin, allowing only stereo sound to be transmitted. When you connect a headset, it will only work as headphones. Ideal for connecting two pairs of headphones to a tablet for sharing media content viewing/listening in in public places e.g. on a train.
If I'm not mistaken, an extension cable was supplied in a simple bag:


Despite the limited functionality, the workmanship is very high level: connector/socket bodies are fused into a strong, but at the same time elastic insulator (somewhat reminiscent of silicone), the cable is thick, but very soft, the connector contacts are gold-plated (coated with titanium nitride) to protect against oxidation:


I bought this splitter / extension cable to quickly connect headphones and home-made active speakers to a computer. No complaints were found during operation, the wires did not break, so I recommend it for purchase!

Splitter miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm (male) -> 2 * miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm (female):

More compact version the previous splitter, but the design is more frail. From one end there is a miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm plug (male):


On the other end there are two miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm sockets (mother):


I bought this adapter offline, but recently I came across an improved version with gold-plated contacts. In the GearBest store, a lot of ten "improved" adapters costs as much as one on Ali. You can buy
Despite the simplicity of the design, this splitter has 4 disadvantages: the case is made of soft plastic, in some cases the height of the case interferes with the adjacent socket, the contacts of the connectors are not gold-plated, the flimsy design of the internal petals (current collectors) in the sockets. Despite the disadvantages, this splitter worked flawlessly until it was replaced with the previous version, but over time, a small backlash of the pin appeared. In this regard, given the meager cost, it is suitable only as a temporary solution.

Adapter / adapter microJack (TRS) 2.5mm (male) -> miniJack (TRS) 3.5mm (female):

A very useful adapter for connecting popular headphones with a 3.5mm miniJack (TRS) jack to devices with a 2.5mm microJack (TRS) jack:


It will seem strange to many, but many old tablets have just a 2.5mm microJack (TRS) jack. I didn’t use this adapter too often, so it’s still in its original package:


In the GearBest store, there is already another product under this SKU, but you can buy
For those who do not understand, there is a 2.5mm pin on the left, and a recessed 3.5mm jack on the right for connecting modern headphones / microphones:


The quality of the adapter is average: the case is made of soft plastic, the contacts of the connectors are not gold-plated, and the design looks flimsy. Suitable only for infrequent connections.

Adapter / adapter miniJack (TRRS) 3.5mm (male) -> microJack (TRRS) 2.5mm (female):

Another useful adapter / adapter, but designed to connect headphones / headset with a microJack (TRRS) 2.5mm connector to standard 3.5mm jacks:


You can buy
In terms of workmanship, everything is excellent: a durable metal case, gold-plated contacts, wiring for the modern CTIA standard (“under Samsung”). The dimensions of the adapter are very compact, the case is one-piece, non-separable. On the one hand, a four-pin 3.5mm pin:


On the other hand, a recessed four-pin 2.5mm socket:


Compared to the previous adapter:


This adapter is used to connect large 2.5mm plug headphones purchased at JD's lavish sale for a dollar or so. The headphones themselves are connected to the laptop. In the work for a year and a half, the flight is excellent, so I recommend it!

Case for in-ear or headset:

Well, the last one on the review is a very convenient case for storing various small things:


It was bought for a promotion for 10 cents at some sale of the GearBest store. You can buy
If I'm not mistaken, then this lot often appears in the "sale" section and just a couple of weeks ago it was just 10 cents (October 9).
I use this case to store the Tennmak headset with the very first extension cord from the review:


On one of the cups there is a special pocket:


Despite its compact size, two headsets are easily included in this case. There are no special comments on the quality of sewing: the threads do not stick out, no skin defects were found, the lock is strong. I would like to note that the cover is covered with leatherette (not natural), thanks to which it has a pleasant appearance and somewhat resistant to moisture.
The inner diameter of the case is about 70mm, here is a comparison with a box of matches:


Two boxes of matches fit easily inside the case. In general, even for the full price, it is worth the money, so I definitely recommend it!

In total, these adapters make it much easier to work with devices that have less common connectors, and their compact dimensions allow you to carry them with you all the time. All adapters were purchased from different time and are used for quite a long time, see recommendations under each lot

I plan to buy +15 Add to favorites Liked the review +14 +35

Pinout of various Jack (TRS) connectors

Connector Jack- aka TRS, a common connector for transmitting an audio signal with ring contacts.

There are three standard sizes for this connector.

  • Jack 6.35 mm (sometimes called a big jack).
  • Mini-jack 3.5 mm
  • Micro-jack 2.5 mm.

Also, the connectors differ in the number of contacts (rings):

  • Most often it has three pins and is correctly called TRS (stereo signal)
  • The variant with two is called TS (mono)
  • Four TRRS variant (stereo + microphone\button\etc)
  • With five pins TRRRS (stereo + video, etc.)

The standard stereo jack (TRS) has the following pinout:
In professional sound engineering, a balanced connection is often used, then the pin assignment is different:


For headsets mobile phones Today, the most commonly used TRRS connector (four pins) is 3.5mm in size. For this connector, until 2012, manufacturers usually used a combination of contacts corresponding to the OMTP (Open Mobile Terminal Platform) standard. After 2012, the CTIA (Cellular Telephone Industries Association) sequence became standard practice among electronics manufacturers. The pinout of both standards is in the figure below.


When connecting an OMTP headset to a CTIA device in standard mode, the ground is unused. The sound of the headphones at the same time is heard as a characteristic "deaf" mono with a large excess of medium frequencies. When you press the headset button, the microphone closes to the ground contact and the OMTP standard headset headphones work according to the standard scheme in stereo mode.

There are also many possible non-standard pinouts for this connector. Below is the pinout of some plugs from Apple.


In some Motorola phones, a four-pin 2.5mm jack (TRRS) plug with a non-standard pinout was used for the headset:

Connecting cable equipped with 3.5 mm plugs ( miniJack-miniJack cable), is essential accessory for owners of portable audio players and gadgets. Such equipment is often equipped with connectors of this type, but they are not capable of transmitting an audio signal with maximum accuracy and without distortion.

Therefore, for owners of portable equipment who plan to use it to listen to music on stationary systems, the miniJack-miniJack wire is a necessary purchase. Its use allows you to significantly improve the sound quality and get a more reliable connection between the signal source and the amplifier.

In addition, minijack-to-minijack cables are often used to replace stock headphone connectors, if the design of the latter allows for such a replacement. Of course, when choosing a cable model for such a replacement, you must make sure that it is compatible with your existing headphones. Such an upgrade can significantly improve the sound quality of headphones even in the middle price category.

You may also need to buy a miniJack-miniJack cable if the regular headphone connector is accidentally damaged. These cables are manufactured using oxygen-free copper conductors, sometimes silver-plated, and high quality insulating materials. The connectors are made in reliable housings that prevent their mechanical damage during frequent use, and have gold-plated contact surfaces.

Some models have a miniJack plug on one end and a socket on the other. These connectors are used to extend existing cables.

When an electric current flows through a cable, some of the energy is lost. It goes to heating the conductors due to their resistance, with a decrease in which the amount of transmitted power and the permissible current for copper wires increase. The most acceptable conductor in practice is copper, which has a small electrical resistance, suits consumers at a cost and is available in a wide range.

The next metal with good conductivity is aluminum. It is cheaper than copper, but more brittle and deforms at the joints. Formerly in-house domestic networks were laid with aluminum wires. They were hidden under plaster and for a long time they forgot about electrical wiring. Electricity was mainly spent on lighting, and the wires easily withstood the load.

With the development of technology, many electrical appliances appeared, which became indispensable in everyday life and required more electricity. The power consumption increased and the wiring could no longer cope with it. Now it has become unthinkable to supply electricity to an apartment or house without calculating the electrical wiring in terms of power. Wires and cables are selected so that there is no extra costs, and they completely coped with all the loads in the house.

The reason for the heating of the wiring

The passing electric current causes heating of the conductor. At elevated temperatures, the metal quickly oxidizes, and the insulation begins to melt at a temperature of 65 0 C. The more often it heats up, the faster it fails. For this reason, the wires are selected according to the allowable current at which they do not overheat.

Wiring area

The shape of the wire is made in the form of a circle, square, rectangle or triangle. In apartment wiring, the cross section is predominantly round. The copper bus is usually installed in a switch cabinet and is rectangular or square.

The cross-sectional areas of the cores are determined by the main dimensions measured with a caliper:

  • circle - S \u003d πd 2 / 4;
  • square - S \u003d a 2;
  • rectangle - S = a * b;
  • triangle - πr 2/3.

The following designations are used in the calculations:

  • r - radius;
  • d - diameter;
  • b, a - width and length of the section;
  • pi = 3.14.

Calculation of power in wiring

The power released in the cable cores during its operation is determined by the formula: P \u003d I n 2 Rn,

where I n - load current, A; R - resistance, Ohm; n is the number of conductors.

The formula is suitable when calculating one load. If several of them are connected to the cable, the amount of heat is calculated separately for each energy consumer, and then the results are summarized.

The permissible current for copper stranded wires is also calculated using transverse section. To do this, fluff the end, measure the diameter of one of the wires, calculate the area and multiply by their number in the wire.

for different operating conditions

It is convenient to measure wire cross-sections in square millimeters. If you roughly estimate the allowable current, mm2 of copper wire passes 10 A through itself, while not overheating.

In a cable, adjacent wires heat each other, so for it it is necessary to choose the thickness of the core according to the tables or as adjusted. In addition, the sizes are taken with a small margin upwards, and then they are selected from the standard range.

The wiring can be open and hidden. In the first version, it is laid outside on surfaces, in pipes or in cable channels. Hidden passes under plaster, in channels or pipes inside structures. Here, the working conditions are more stringent, since in closed spaces without air access, the cable heats up more strongly.

For different conditions operation, correction factors are introduced, by which the rated continuous current should be multiplied, depending on the following factors:

  • single-core cable in a pipe with a length of more than 10 m: I \u003d I n x 0.94;
  • three in one pipe: I = I n x 0.9;
  • laying in water protective coating type Kl: I \u003d I n x 1.3;
  • four-core cable of equal cross section: I \u003d I n x 0.93.

Example

With a load of 5 kW and a voltage of 220 V, the current through the copper wire will be 5 x 1000/220 = 22.7 A. Its cross section will be 22.7/10 = 2.27 mm 2. This size will provide the allowable current for heating copper wires. Therefore, a small margin of 15% should be taken here. As a result, the cross section will be S \u003d 2.27 + 2.27 x 15 / 100 \u003d 2.61 mm 2. Now, to this size, you should choose a standard wire cross-section, which will be 3 mm.

Heat dissipation during cable operation

A conductor cannot be heated by a passing current indefinitely. At the same time, it gives off heat to the environment, the amount of which depends on the temperature difference between them. At a certain moment, an equilibrium state occurs and the temperature of the conductor is set constant.

Important! With properly selected wiring, heating losses are reduced. It should be remembered that for irrational (when the wires overheat) you also have to pay. On the one hand, a fee is charged for the extra consumption of the meter, and on the other hand, for the replacement of the cable.

Wire section selection

For standard apartment electricians do not particularly think about which wire sections to choose. In most cases, these are used:

  • input cable - 4-6 mm 2;
  • sockets - 2.5 mm 2;
  • main lighting - 1.5 mm 2.

Such a system copes well with loads if there are no powerful electrical appliances, which sometimes need to be supplied separately.

Great for finding the allowable copper wire current, table from the reference book. It also provides calculation data when using aluminum.

The basis for the choice of wiring is the power of consumers. If the total power in the lines from the main input P \u003d 7.4 kW at U \u003d 220 V, the permissible current for copper wires will be 34 A according to the table, and the cross section will be 6 mm 2 (closed gasket).

Short-term operating modes

The maximum allowable short-term current for copper wires for operating modes with cycle durations up to 10 minutes and operating periods between them no more than 4 minutes is reduced to a long-term operating mode if the cross section does not exceed 6 mm 2. With a cross section above 6 mm 2: I add \u003d I n ∙ 0.875 / √T p.v. ,

where T p.v - the ratio of the duration of the working period to the duration of the cycle.

Power off during overloads and short circuits is determined by technical specifications applied circuit breakers. Below is a diagram of a small apartment control panel. Power from the meter is supplied to the 63 A DP MCB introductory circuit breaker, which protects the wiring up to the 10 A, 16 A and 20 A circuit breakers of individual lines.

Important! The thresholds for the operation of the automata must be less than the maximum allowable wiring current and higher than the load current. In this case, each line will be reliably protected.

How to choose the lead wire to the apartment?

The value of the rated current on the input cable to the apartment depends on how many consumers are connected. The table shows the necessary devices and their power.

The current strength from a known power can be found from the expression:

I = P∙K and /(U∙cos φ), where K and = 0.75 is the simultaneity factor.

For most electrical appliances that are active loads, the power factor cos φ \u003d 1. For fluorescent lamps, vacuum cleaner motors, washing machine etc. it is less than 1 and must be taken into account.

The long-term permissible current for the devices listed in the table will be I \u003d 41 - 81 A. The value is quite impressive. You should always think carefully when you buy a new electrical appliance, whether the apartment network will pull it. According to the table for open wiring, the cross section of the input wire will be 4-10 mm 2. Here it is also necessary to take into account how the apartment load will affect the common house. It is possible that the housing office will not allow connecting so many electrical appliances to the entrance riser, where a busbar (copper or aluminum) passes through the distribution cabinets for each phase and neutral. They simply will not be pulled by an electric meter, which is usually installed in a switchboard on landing. In addition, the fee for overrunning the electricity norm will grow to an impressive size due to increasing coefficients.

If wiring is done for a private house, then here it is necessary to take into account the power of the outlet wire from the main network. The commonly used SIP-4 with a cross section of 12 mm 2 may not be enough for a large load.

Selection of wiring for individual consumer groups

After the cable for connecting to the network is selected and for it the one that protects against overloads and short circuits automatic input, it is necessary to select wires for each consumer group.

The load is divided into lighting and power. The most powerful consumer in the house is the kitchen, where an electric stove, washing machine and dishwasher, refrigerator, microwave and other electrical appliances.

For each outlet, 2.5 mm 2 wires are selected. According to the table for hidden wiring, he will miss 21 A. The supply scheme is usually radial - from Therefore, wires of 4 mm 2 should fit the box. If the sockets are connected by a loop, it should be borne in mind that a cross section of 2.5 mm 2 corresponds to a power of 4.6 kW. Therefore, the total load on them should not exceed it. There is one drawback here: if one outlet fails, the rest may also be inoperative.

It is advisable to connect a separate wire with a machine to a boiler, electric stove, air conditioner and other powerful loads. The bathroom also has a separate input with an automatic machine and an RCD.

A 1.5 mm 2 wire is used for lighting. Now many use the main and additional lighting, where a larger cross section may be required.

How to calculate three-phase wiring?

The type of network affects the calculation of the allowable. If the power consumption is the same, the permissible current loads on the cable cores for will be less than for single-phase.

To power a three-core cable at U = 380 V, the formula is applied:

I = P/(√3∙U∙cos φ).

The power factor can be found in the characteristics of electrical appliances or it is equal to 1 if the load is active. The maximum allowable current for copper wires, as well as aluminum wires at three-phase voltage, is indicated in the tables.

Conclusion

To prevent overheating of conductors during continuous load, it is necessary to correctly calculate the cross-section of the conductors, on which the permissible current for copper wires depends. If the power of the conductor is not enough, the cable will fail prematurely.

Similar posts