Variants of compact stairs in the bath. Installation of stairs in the bath to the second floor

Many are interested in how to make a staircase to the second floor on their own. There is nothing complicated in making wooden stairs with your own hands. It is quite difficult to make a flight of stairs from metal or concrete, it is much easier and more pleasant to work with wood. The staircase should be beautiful, strong, safe and durable, so you need to try and do everything right.

Then you need to find out how much the material costs. If possible, you can order ready-made elements for stairs from the manufacturer - steps, balusters, risers. It will cost more, but you can skip the manufacturing process and immediately proceed with the installation. If you decide to make all the elements yourself, then you need to purchase the following materials:

• timber for steps 4-4.5 cm thick;
• boards (dimensions depending on the calculations);
• beams for tread and risers from 3 to 4 cm;
• timber for stringers 5X2.5cm;
• stainless steel screws;
• handrails, balusters and railings (it is better to purchase ready-made, without professional tool they are difficult to make on your own).

You need to prepare the following tools:

• simple pencil;
• meter;
• square;
• a hammer;
• hacksaw.

Manufacturing process

According to pre-prepared templates, you need to cut out all the elements. Everything must be made highest level so that the quality is not questioned. First make the side bases. To do this, measure the angle of contact with the floor and carefully draw a line horizontally. From this line they push further and measure the width and height of each step to the very top. They do the same with another kosour. At the bottom, the stringers are fixed using a support beam, and on the ceiling they are inserted into pre-cut gaps. Periodically check the evenness and horizontality of the structure. If you make an inaccuracy, in the future it will create additional inconvenience, and the quality of the stairs will suffer.

Next, the risers are cut out and nailed to the already installed base. The risers should be level, without distortions and cracks. The stairs can be made without risers, so it looks lighter and weightless, but not everyone likes this option. Now it's the turn of the steps. It must be remembered that the treads should have rounded edges. Steps are often made from one solid board or from two narrower ones. Treads are fixed with nails and screws.

According to safety rules, if there are children in the house, the operation of the stairs without railings is not allowed. Therefore, the railing is not only decorative, but also safe. At the same time, if there are small children in the house, there should be two balusters on each step.

If it is not possible to purchase ready-made balusters and railings, they can be made independently from the bars. To make homemade balusters stand firmly, grooves can be cut in the steps. After installing the balusters, a handrail from a bar is fixed on top. Railings do not have to be wooden. The combination of wooden flight of stairs with wrought iron or metal railings. Sometimes they even order railings from tempered glass, although this is hardly a practical solution. You can make stairs without railings, but it's quite dangerous.

The attic room of the bath is often used as a utility room for storing brooms or a rest room. To access the second floor, a compact wooden staircase is usually constructed. You can build it on bowstrings or stringers with your own hands.

Content:

To climb to the second floor or attic in the bath, they install a production (collapsible) staircase or build a structure with their own hands. In the latter case, it is necessary not only to build it correctly, but also to correctly calculate the angle of inclination, dimensions, type of steps. The ladder for the bath should be compact, comfortable and safe. Calculate its location so that the exit to the second floor is near the wall. So you can significantly save space and expand the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe dressing room.

Types of wooden stairs for a bath

• tilt angle - less than 45 degrees;
• step length - 80-100 cm;
• lifting step - from 17 cm;
• width - from 30 cm.

For the construction of the entrance stairs to the bath the best option considered pine or larch. At the same time, they must be treated with antifungal impregnation. Such structures are installed on a columnar or pile foundation.

1. Direct single-march. The simplest option, however, requires a large installation space.
2. U-shaped. For its construction, it is necessary to design mines in advance in the room.
3. L-shaped. They can be designed along one or two walls.
4. screw. Designed at an angle from 270 to 360 degrees. It must be installed counterclockwise, since most people start lifting with their right foot.
5. Samba or goose step. Compact, but rather inconvenient.

• stainless steel. metal staircase does not deform or corrode. At the same time, it is easy to install and economical.
• Granite or fake diamond based on concrete. Model for Turkish baths.
• Wood. Traditional material for Russian baths.

IMPORTANT: wooden components for stairs must be moisture resistant. They must be treated with impregnation to protect against fungus, decay and insects.

Then we make approximate calculations. Here are a few key points to keep in mind:

1. It is undesirable to do more than three or four winder steps.
2. The width of the steps must be designed according to the length of the foot.
3. The size of the opening must be calculated so as not to hit your head during the descent.

Instructions for the construction of stairs on stringers for a bath

• We choose hard and dense wood for the manufacture of stringers.
• We cut out a step shape template from thick cardboard with the appropriate size and slope.
• To connect the stringers with the top floor and the base, we make special grooves and markings according to the prepared template at the ends.
• By marking, we cut out the protrusions with a jigsaw and process them with a grinding machine.
• We cut out a recess for fasteners in the floor beam and mount metal supports.
• We fix the support beam with anchors along the line of the bottom step.
• We install the stringers at the desired angle. We fix them from below and from above with anchors.
• For steps we use boards from 3.6 cm thick, for risers - from 2 cm.
• We cut and grind each workpiece.
• We lubricate the lower cutout of the stringer with wood glue or PVA to prevent squeaking. Exactly along the edges we apply the elements of the risers.
• We fix the parts with self-tapping screws and install steps above them.
• After laying all the steps, we mount the railing. For the manufacture of racks, you can use figured wooden blanks. We mount the railing handrails along a clearly corresponding slope of the stairs.

The erection of stairs on bowstrings in the bath

• We make measurements of the height from the floor of the room to the top of the future stairs. We round the number and divide it by 18, we get the desired number of risers.
• We fix the brass ladder gauges on the joiner's square in pre-calculated places.
• We check the material of the bowstring so that it is straight, and put a square on it evenly. We draw a riser line and, without moving the tool, draw a step line.
• Using the calibrators and lines, draw the outline of the bowstring until all the steps are drawn.
• We remove the calibrators from the square when drawing the last element.
• By using circular saw make cuts along the edges.
• We cut out the middle with a sharp hand saw, apply the resulting part to the material and draw a contour.
• We make two edge and one middle bowstring.
• We adjust the height of the lower riser so that it is shorter by one step thickness.
• We attach the plywood sheet, where landing connects to the steps.
• We make marks for installing the bowstring and fasten it to the plywood.
• We cut out the same risers and fasten them with screws to the bowstrings.
• We attach the steps with screws and glue to prevent creaking and increase strength.
• For a general connection, we attach with screws to plywood part upper step.
• We mount the railing post in a vertical position and attach it with screws.
• We install the railings so that they repeat the angle of inclination of the stairs, and fasten them sequentially with screws.
• We assemble the handrails (railings) with nails and fasten fasteners to the stair structure.
• We attach the railing above the last crossbar, observing the correct slope.
• We prime and varnish the surface.

Do-it-yourself spiral staircase for a bath

• We make winder steps without risers. This will provide additional convenience when lifting.
• We design the step so that in the center its width is from 20 cm, and 15 cm from the racks is not less than 10 cm.
• We calculate the diameter of the structure from two meters, and the length of the steps - from 80 cm.
• We leave the height of the passage to the upper turn from 2 m.
• We use a thick-walled pipe made of stainless metal with a diameter of 5 cm or more as a supporting element. We install it strictly vertically at the very beginning of work. This will increase the strength of the stairs.
• Fasteners and anchors fasten the main support to wooden floor. If the floor is cement, then we concrete it using extensions.
• We drill a hole (with the diameter of the rack) in the narrow part of the tread to fix the step. For the installation of each element, we use bushings with the appropriate height.
• To prevent deformation of the step, we place a washer between the tread and the bushing. Its thickness is important to consider when designing the height of the sleeve. Otherwise, the staircase will turn out to be much higher than it was designed.
• We determine the length of the steps in accordance with the size of the rise in the ceiling. To calculate their number, the height of the entire structure is divided by the height of the opening between them. It should be from 18 to 20 cm, excluding the thickness of the step.
• We install steps with a slight overlap. We fix the structure with brackets between the edges of the wide part.
• We mount the final step on the floor with fasteners.
• We install the railing posts vertically to the steps and attach the handrails to them at the angle of the base of the stairs.
• We carry out decorative finishing.

The staircase in the bath is a compromise between convenience, aesthetics and safety requirements.

Usually wood is used

Design features

At the input and internal model General characteristics. According to the material, wood is a priority, since more often baths are made from it. Solid beams, glued or rounded timber are used. From the breeds choose those that tolerate changes in the microclimate and are resistant to decay: birch, oak or larch. Conifers are short-lived and produce resin.

As for the types of structures, it is mainly used here marching stairs both straight and swivel.

Space is saved by leaving open steps.

Ladder options:

• entrance upstairs from the street (for the summer period);
• from an annex;
• indoors (used all year round).

Types of stairs in the bath

It is important to ensure that the steps do not clutter up the space, and the rise ensures safety.

Entrance to the bath

Let's take a look at each type of structure. To equip the porch, the foundation is first built after the building has undergone basic shrinkage. Several types of piles are driven in:

• For deep laying. They are installed below the level of soil freezing to maintain the position of the porch during the period of seasonal fluctuations. There are bored and screw.
• For shallow placement. Columns (steers) are used, which are deepened below the fertile layer by 40–50 cm. To avoid deformation of the structure, the site is attached to the building with the help of beams and crossbars.

The porch to the bathhouse should be equipped after the basic shrinkage of the building

If the access to the second floor is planned from the outside, the same requirements apply for it. The parameters fit into the GOST standards: treads - within 25-30 cm, and risers - 15-20 cm.

The steps are attached to bowstrings or stacked on stringers. Consider a fence. It is desirable to mount the beams holding the platform into the wall.

Rise to the second floor

To equip the stairs in the bathhouse, you will need a thorough study of the available area and the selection of use cases.

Traditional mid-flight structures are placed aside, closer to the corners, building an L-shaped or U-shaped staircase. Thanks to this configuration, it is possible to reduce the affected area.

Mounting process:

1. Support beams are installed at the beginning of the ascent to the second floor and on the turning part.
2. Steps to the wall and supports are attached to stringers or straight bowstrings. In the first case, it is recommended to cut out the ridges, and in the second, notches for treads.
3. Installation depends on the selected design model. Additionally, they make closed risers.
4. Wooden handrails are attached to the outer part of the march. Use of other materials is not recommended due to heat.

Installation of stairs in the bath

If there is a catastrophic lack of space for construction, a compact goose step design is used.

Here it is possible to increase the slope while maintaining safety and convenience due to the treads alternating in width. Such models are often used for utility rooms, attics and mansards.

Since ancient times, the bath had a limited set of tasks: a person came, steamed, washed himself and went home. To date, the baths are rebuilt in two floors, and the upper level is made residential, but how the construction work is carried out and the further operation of such buildings will be discussed in this article.

Individual features of two-story baths

Modern construction trends are such that a bathhouse with a second floor is represented by a washing room and a steam room on the first floor, and a kitchen block and a living room are located on the second.

This placement has a number of advantages:

• the bath can be used not only for the sake of taking procedures that are beneficial to health, but also as a temporary residential facility. Such a combination becomes especially expedient under conditions suburban area where it is not possible to make two buildings separately due to lack of free space;
• the construction of one two-story building is more economical and takes less time than the construction of several separate buildings;
• it is possible to build such a building, as under seasonal accommodation and for year-round use. A sauna with a garage can also be built, which is very practical.

Considering standard projects baths with a second floor, you should pay attention to the following parameters:

• linear dimensions of the building;
• type of foundation;
• availability and characteristics heating system;
• characteristics of the water supply system and sewage disposal;
• type of installed stairs;
• purpose of the second floor;
• the presence in the construction of a swimming pool or bathing room.

Let's consider each of these parameters in more detail. It should be understood what the design of the two floors of the bath should be in order to get a comfortable, reliable and safe building during construction. It is necessary to think over in advance the plan of the bath and adjacent buildings.

Optimal linear dimensions of the building

First of all, when determining the size of the future bath, it is necessary to take into account the estimated number of people who are inside at the same time. For example, if a washing room is needed for a family of 3-4 people, and it will be used only at the end of a couple of weekends, then there is no need to make a huge room at all. And vice versa, if a bathhouse with a residential second floor will be used all year round, as a full-fledged country-type house, then its dimensions should correspond to a modern cottage. In our country, a sauna in a wooden house is a very popular phenomenon.

In such a building it is worth adhering to the following rules internal layout:

• on the ground floor there is a steam room with a shower room (bath, pool or other washing room), but they can be supplemented private room recreation, technical rooms or even a small fitness room. A corner bath can be designed, which is also very convenient;
• the distribution of rooms on the second floor remains with the owner, but, of course, there should be a bedroom, a kitchen block, possibly a separate dining room and a common living room. But here the owner of the future bath is not limited and, if desired, a balcony or terrace from the street side can even be completed.

Rules for creating a foundation

Choosing the right foundation for a two-story building is very important, since the total weight of the entire structure will be very large, which means that the foundation must be more massive and immersed in the ground than in the case of one-story buildings.

Experts do not recommend paying attention to columnar foundation even in those cases when a minimum load will be created on it (during construction from a foam block or profiled timber). Such a foundation cannot withstand a more significant load, and therefore it is better to take care of safety and pour a concrete monolithic reinforced strip foundation, laying it to a depth below the soil freezing level.

Features of the heating system

If you heat one-story bath It is possible with a standard stove-heater, then for a two-story building this becomes impossible. It is necessary to create an individual design that will heat the upper level of the building.

It is best, of course, to use gas heating if there is access to a centralized gas supply. In this case, you can use a gas boiler with the ability to connect two heating system circuits to distribute heated water through pipelines and heating radiators. However, do not forget about bathing traditions by placing a stove-heater in the steam room and bringing its firebox into the dressing room.

Since the article earlier dealt with the construction of a two-story bathhouse on a suburban area, then, most likely, there will simply be no opportunity to supply gas. In this case, you can use a solid fuel boiler in one of its many modifications.

Water supply and sewerage equipment

A two-story building on a suburban area can be provided with water:

• by connecting to central system water supply;
• from a drilled well or dug well, from which a pump will pump water into the building.

If precipitation often falls in the region and various spontaneous weather manifestations occur, then it would be reasonable to place a well or well in closed design. It is even possible to create them inside the building at the ground floor level, but then a separate area will have to be allocated for this room.

To divert sewage, it is most reasonable to use a septic tank. Its advantage is that wastewater are cleaned and can be further used for agricultural purposes.

Types of stairs

In a two-story building, of course, one cannot do without a convenient staircase, which will allow you to quickly and freely move around the floors.

There are two options:

• external staircase suitable only for seasonal use baths, since moving around it can become difficult and unsafe when wet, iced, etc .;
• internal staircase is the best option for year-round operation of the building, as it is located indoors and is not exposed to adverse weather conditions.

Purchase of building materials

It is worth saying that a two-story bath with a balcony or terrace can be built with your own hands. However, this becomes possible only after right choice building materials. One of the most popular materials are foam and cinder blocks.

These materials have significant advantages:

• their light weight provides a minimum load on the foundation;
• blocks can be easily processed: sawed, cut, stabbed or drilled;
• the cost of the material is low, and therefore the cost of the entire building is also reduced;
• blocks are an environmentally friendly material, and therefore completely safe for humans;
• holding speed construction works high, since the individual blocks have precise linear dimensions that simplify their installation.

It can also be used as a building material profiled timber or logs. To date, a bath from a bar with a second floor is really an elite building, but carrying out construction work with lumber is much more difficult and requires special skills from the worker.

The only drawback (condition) in the operation of wood is its immunity to high humidity. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out competent processing of the material and monitor the operating conditions in order to avoid deformations in the first months of the operation of a wooden two-story bath.

Wood also has its positive qualities:

• ecological cleanliness natural material;
• light weight;
• reduced thermal conductivity;
• ease of processing;
• reliability and long service life with proper processing various formulations protecting from natural and other negative factors.

Outcome

Thus, a two-story bathhouse made of timber or foam block will be an ideal option for organizing living and leisure activities in a suburban area. If such a site is planned to be visited more than 1-2 times a month (exclusively for recreation), then you need to take care of the construction of a full-fledged two-story building with all life support systems: heating, water supply, sewerage, etc.

If desired, you can entrust the construction work to specialists who will take responsibility for all stages - from the purchase of building materials to installation and putting the bath into operation.

If in the bath it is necessary to install a staircase to the second floor, it is necessary to consider both its design and the material from which it will be made. Taking into account the peculiarities of the atmosphere in the sauna room and the natural desire to keep the interior in one, harmoniously created style, a combination of wood and metal is acceptable for saunas.

Ergonomic and beautiful option- ladder building made of wood with supporting structure from metal. With sufficient space, it can be marching, with limited space it can be rotary or screw. Direct modifications with marches take up a lot of space, but with proper planning, the area remaining under the stairs can be used as a pantry for storing bath accessories and other equipment. Detail drawing in the photo below.

Spiral and turn stairs are less convenient for constant walking, but in a small bath they significantly save space, and are not used so often. The project of a spiral or turning staircase can be different, the main thing here is the dimensions of the building.

In any case, such a staircase in the bathhouse to the second floor, with small volumes of the room, not only “does not steal” the usable area, but also saves money on its construction.

Do-it-yourself construction installation

To begin with, the technology provides for placement: a vertical stand or adjoining a wall. It is better to give preference to the latter if there will be children or people with limited mobility in the bathhouse. The wall will act as an additional support.

In order not to get sick after steam procedures, the steps must be made of wood, and the frame, handrails and stand should be made of stainless metal, you can use wood, which is more acceptable for the temperature regime in the bath. The metal heats up too quickly and can cause discomfort if it comes into contact with the skin.

How to make a ladder: calculation method and possible configuration in the video below.

A convenient location for step steps is 35-40 cm, but this applies only to rectangular models, spiral staircases have trapezoidal steps.

The design should be as simple as possible: steps and railings are not slippery, even with a slightly rough surface so that a wet foot does not slip.

In order to build a staircase in the bath yourself, you will need the following materials:

• tread beam - 4 cm;
• beam for steps, not less than 4 cm thick;
• beam for risers - 3 cm;
• timber for mounting stringers (strings) 5x25 cm in size;
• purchased or self-made handrails;
• stainless steel screws.

Work begins with determining the layout, type of stairs and steps. The standard parameters of the march are erected with a support step on a double-sided bowstring or mounted on stringers (beams located below).

Stringers are called bars, on which the structure rests in a horizontal section. In a vertical position, the teeth fix the risers. At the same time, the ladder can be mounted on the central stringer and the support of the steps on the wall or on the side stringers.

Bowstrings - strong beams with grooves for steps and risers. They are made from thick boards, the grooves are cut independently according to the template. Between themselves, fasteners are made using wooden or metal strands.

The steps are connected with a bowstring and reinforced with bars under the stairs at an equidistant distance. If the angle of inclination of the march is high, the bars may not be used. The top and bottom of the string are fixed on the walls, ceiling or on the floor.

Wooden fragments of the structure are treated with impregnation with antiseptic and refractory properties and opened with stain or varnish.

For a spiral staircase, the main thing is to determine the angle of inclination. It should be between 23-37 degrees. But, it is worth remembering that the higher the angle of inclination, the more difficult it will be to climb the steps, however, this design will require the smallest placement.

Since many people prefer wood finishes in the bath, the stairs can be made in the same style without even using large-scale metal parts. It is worth choosing from hardwood: birch, ash, linden, oak. From conifers, larch and cedar are suitable.

It is important to make the stairs as safe as possible, since in conditions of high humidity and sudden changes in temperature, you can slip when going up or down. And, of course, do not save on protective solutions, otherwise the design will not last long.