The Expert Community for Bathroom Remodeling

"wet business" or "jet of water from the outlet." How to check the wiring for a short There are several reasons for a short circuit

    Tele2 paid well :D

    According to conscience relies pistyulina. Mostly moral, but maybe material.
    Legally, negligence. If the heater was oil or one that can be left, then in general, according to the law, there are no problems for you. Let's contact the manufacturer of radiators)
    If the fan heater is either a “sun” or a self-made of heating elements, then according to the “intention” factor, there is no intent. In fact, awareness of the consequences - I realized that such people cannot be left. Negligence or negligence resulting in material damage. Look at the civil code and criminal. Too lazy to look) I don’t even know your country)

    1) It depends on which cable is routed to the outlet
    2) It depends on what kind of outlet
    3) It depends on what kind of extension cord
    By "Watching" I mean what kind of load they are designed for.
    Fold the cotton wool, if required, convert to amperes, if everything + 10% fits into the maximum allowable value in the specification of points 1 - 3, then everything is reliable, if not, there is a risk of wiring fire and (or) short circuit.

    Any electrical store

    In "636" there is, for example.
    Meter 2 is just a wire. After 5 meters it should already be active. That is to amplify the signal.

    go to any electronics store.


    there is also in cenuklubs (I once bought it in alpha) maybe it’s close to you too)
  • The grounding contact is only for use in special environments where special grounding wiring is available. AT living conditions grounding is not applied. \ there is a classification of premises for electrical hazard, high humidity, conductive floors, etc. \

    in any store more than a large one with the presence of electronics. The minimum length of the wire will be 2.5 meters like or 3..


    .... and on a flea too + all kinds of adapter plugs
  • I saw it in Cruise. I think it will be in K-rout, Depot and Tsenuklub.

    In high-quality put thick wires, the thicker the conductors themselves, the better. Well, good plastic. If the plastic of the sockets bends under the fingers and the wires are light and very soft, most likely it is g. For, no matter how you twist the stranded wire, it is quite tight and weighs. Still copper.

Thoroughly. Approximately like this:


For the first time in my life I saw water was leaking from electrical outlets and a spark 20-30 centimeters long a meter away from you.
It's simple - the masters of the housing department did a poor job of installing plastic pipes, the next day the connection of a metal and plastic pipe was torn off by a neighbor from above and flooded them and us. My neighbor and I plugged the hole in the pipe with a cork 5 minutes before the fireman and the emergency water utility arrived. What if a hot water pipe burst?

Five minutes after the start of the fun, while I was running between the first and second floors with a roar and sparks, the electrical panel was knocked out. It rumbled solidly, like from a powerful gun.

Our houses are made so chic that all the water from me through an incomprehensible crack in the floor went into the basement. I don’t even know whether to curse or be happy for our would-be miracle architects of the Soviet era, who designed and built the so-called. "Khrushchev".

Minuses: stress, lack of electricity and water for 3 days, damaged wallpaper.
Pros: experience in dealing with panic and emergencies, parquet floor 1989 after
Impregnation with water stopped squeaking, I learned how to draw up an accident report.


2. I started shooting only when I arrived from the Ministry of Emergencies
and it was possible to relax, before that they tried to close up
pipe yourself. Luckily there was no fire hazard.
The fireman's leg sticks out to the right.

3. Emergency electrician
was cold-blooded and laconic.
I tore off pieces of electrical tape, separated the wires by 5 cm and closed the shield.
I want to note that firefighters have a much better flashlight than an electrician

4. The guys from the emergency service were slow, walked.
Looks like they've already seen this. They still had to explain
It's high time to turn off the water in the basement.

5. And here is the "rocket" of the emergency service. Photo a la HDR =)

6. And here is the view from the entrance to the entrance. If I had not been at the scene of the accident,
I went in and saw SUCH, the seed would skip a beat. But in reality destruction
not catastrophic.

7. Bulb driveway lighting.

8. As I wrote - after "washing" the parquet stopped creaking.
Can such "breakthroughs" be arranged more often?
And everyone will be fine.

9. From left to right:
light in the hallway
light in the kitchen
bathroom light
toilet light
All four did not work.

Water supply accident in the city
Orenburg, June 10, 2009
Filmed: Canon EOS 30d
Canon EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS
Built-in flash
Shot in format Canon RAW- *.cr2
Processing: Photoshop Camera RAW CS4
Photographer: Vitaly Medvedev

An 18-year-old Muscovite took a bath with a tablet connected to charger. According to preliminary data, the tablet fell into the water, as a result of which the girl died.

What electrical appliances can not be used in the bathroom and why, see the AiF.ru infographic

What appliances are dangerous in the bathroom?

With any electrical appliances, you need to be especially careful in the bathroom and do not forget about safety precautions. If the mains operated appliance falls into water, it may cause a short circuit. As a result, a person can be electrocuted.

Electrical appliances for personal care

Electric shavers and toothbrushes

These devices are intended for use in the bathroom. However, we should not forget that they should be charged in another place - away from water.

Electric epilator

Epilators may not be suitable for use in the bathroom unless they are waterproof. The manufacturer indicates how to handle the equipment in the instruction manual.

Be especially careful when using a hair dryer in the bathroom. Do not forget that the device may slip out of your hands and fall into the water, which is unsafe. Therefore, you should not dry your hair directly in a full bath or near an open tap.

Electrical appliances for entertainment and communication

  • mobile phone
  • tablet
  • notebook
  • radio
  • player
  • television

Such electrical equipment has no place in the bathroom - a humid climate and condensate adversely affect the operation of appliances. Under no circumstances should devices be charged or left plugged in directly in the bathroom. If electrical appliances fall into water while connected to a power source, electric shock can be fatal.

How to safely use electrical appliances in the bathroom?

If you need to take electrical devices to the bathroom for entertainment and communication purposes, purchase special transparent waterproof covers for them. Manufacturers also produce special radios and TVs for the shower.

Why is the bathroom electric?

If you notice tingling and mild electric shocks when you come into contact with a water jet, bathtub, sink, faucet, or water pipes, it is necessary to call an electrician and eliminate the cause of the current leakage. There may be several reasons:

  • Incorrect grounding of the bathroom, electrical appliances and sockets, or lack of grounding.
  • Violation of the insulation of the wiring laid in the walls.
  • Neighbors use the pipe as a ground or for unauthorized power extraction. In this case, you need to contact the energy supply company or Energonadzor for help.
  • Plugged in (not even working) washing machine not grounded.
  • You or your neighbors have a water heater malfunction (if an electric shock is received from water).

Why is it necessary to ground the bathroom and household appliances?

Special attention should be paid to electrical safety standards when installing a washing machine, water heaters and other appliances in the bathroom. Appliances must be grounded, as well as the bathroom bowl itself, if it is made of cast iron, steel and other metals.

Grounding - protection that takes the electric current when it appears on the devices and takes it to the ground.

Previously, for grounding, the bathroom bowl was connected to a sewer or water riser. Do it in apartment building it's not possible now. The fact is that the neighbors below can change their iron plumbing or sewer cast-iron riser to plastic pipes, and then the grounding system will be interrupted throughout the entrance.

According to the electrical installation standards, the bathtub must be connected to a special ground bus, which is located on the input switchboard in the entrance. If your bathroom has a shower with a device for instant water heating, or other water heating equipment, as well as a washing machine, they must also be grounded. These devices are grounded in the same way as the bathroom. It is better to entrust this work to an electrician.

How else to protect yourself from electric shock in the bathroom?

It is better to connect all electrical appliances in the bathroom to the network through a protective connection device - RCD. This mechanism detects current leakage and opens the circuit contacts. RCD protects a person from electric shock in case of contact with its source or conductive surfaces, which are just water and metal. RCDs can also prevent a fire in the event of a short circuit.

What requirements should the electrical wiring in the bathroom meet?

  • The cable from which the wiring will be laid in the bathroom is better to choose a copper two-core cable with a cross section of 2.5 mm square or more
  • The outlet in the bathroom should be splash-proof, usually in the form of a spring-loaded cap.
  • It is better to use sockets with a high degree protection from external influences
  • Exposed wiring in the bathroom is undesirable
  • All electrical appliances in the bathroom must be connected to common network through RCD
  • Outlets in the bathroom should be located no closer than 0.6 meters from front door shower cabin or directly from the bath and at least 18-20 centimeters from the floor
  • It is better to entrust the installation of sockets and electrical equipment in the bathroom to a specialist.

Constantly knocks out traffic jams - there is only one conclusion: the neighbors flooded. Rarely will a child short an outlet. The reason is obvious: the phase passes to the ground. It happens in any branch, finding a malfunction is easy. Now we will tell you how it is done. Sometimes a different event worries people: let's say the refrigerator knocks out traffic jams. The reason for this asynchronous motor compressor overloading an incorrectly selected circuit breaker. Today we will discuss why it knocks out traffic jams in the apartment.

Reasons for traffic jams

There are three reasons that provoke the departure of apartment traffic jams:

  1. Short circuit.
  2. Short-term current overload caused by starting motors (especially asynchronous ones), metal welding.
  3. Faulty automatic plugs/switches.

Short circuit: causes

The machine constantly knocks out the cork - check for wet spots on the ceiling. Old wiring usually has broken insulation, leaks through wet concrete. Minor faults cause flickering LED lamps glasses (ceiling), difficult situations are accompanied by blown fuses in the switchboard. Such situations are the reason to install reusable circuit breakers. In fact, there is a chance when the equipment is turned off to get a short circuit, for example:

The water of the neighbors flooded the outlet

typical flood

A small thickness of the wet bridge is enough for current to flow. Sparks will fall, sound effects appear, people see a blue glow, tongues resembling lightning. The situation, firstly, is dangerous, and secondly, it provokes a blackout. The differential circuit breaker would have worked immediately. Sensing trouble, cut off the electricity while people are alive, then you need to patiently wait for the moisture to dry.

A long drying period follows. Assess the readiness of the wiring, guided by the indicator using the above LED lamps: there is a leak, the light blinks. Complete drying takes several days. The good news: there is no damage to the insulation of the wires, it’s enough to disassemble the socket, dry it with a hairdryer, a wind blower (with careful supervision, excluding the occurrence of a fire, damage to property), assemble it.

melted insulation

The worst option. Traffic jams, automatic protection devices are installed in an attempt to avoid emergency situations. As planned, the insulation temperature should not rise excessively, experts like A. Zemskov recommend underloading the home network by 10-20% (in the worst case). We are guaranteed to stop the situation when the cable melted inside the wall, the current-carrying core was shorted to the ground.

The power supply of the apartment is cut down, the search for a problem area begins. If the apartment is divided into lines in the shield, the process is greatly simplified. It is necessary to cut down the machines one by one, then call the phase to the common bus neutral wire: where it squeaks, it burned there. Take the trouble to remove the plugs from the sockets before the procedure, the incandescent bulbs should be unscrewed.

Signed driveway plugs

The advantage of the situation is that the protection devices are inscribed (see the figure), the direction of the search is clear. More branches in the apartment, it is easier to localize the malfunction. Now let's describe a difficult case: there are traffic jams. The socket is called by a tester (electricity is turned off, of course), where it beeps, there is a breakdown. Use actively extension cords, it will help to bring the given point closer.

Exploring junction boxes ( round hole near the ceiling), disconnect the wires. We call (switches are cut down) every pair, does not beep - we try to apply energy. We'll talk about wiring repairs below. Similarly, we test lighting through cartridges: with cut plugs, switches, there is no short circuit.

Device burnt out

It happens that a short circuit occurred inside household appliances. If the microwave knocks out plugs, disconnect from the circuit, try testing the power supply. It's easier to start with a plug: 90% chance, there is a capacitor filter at the input for decoupling direct current. We start calling, insulation resistance is expected everywhere (three terminals, phase, zero, ground). The fact is obvious, the case is isolated from the other line, it is not known in advance which of the two pins is the phase.

If a breakdown is detected, a malfunction is found inside the device. It is difficult to buy equipment now, devoid of input filter, dogma is performed frequently. Soldering irons, table lamps, fireplaces have a resistance of 30 - 500 ohms. Should not trigger the protection (current up to 7A).

Connected electrical appliances

The children shorted the wire

Rarely are children the cause. Strictly speaking, in the event of an emergency situation, first of all, you need to check what they are doing, where they are. In the second turn, the children's is investigated. According to the rules, sockets are placed there with curtains. Therefore, it is easy to spot problems. Let's see if someone decided to play with the power supply networks.

Other reasons for the failure of traffic jams

  • Engine start

A common reason for knocking out too sensitive automata. Breaker classes A, B. At the start of most motors, the current consumption exceeds the rated current significantly. The difference reaches 7 times. The equipment is demanding, a machine that consumes 5 kW - for sure the launch will trigger the protection.

Such a device should not knock out plugs. The short circuit arc current is much higher (measured in hundreds of amperes). Knocks out the plug of the meter (with a fusible link) - the reason is unlikely to be explained by the start-up of the equipment. We recommend that you plug in other equipment into this outlet, see if the emergency situation repeats.

The plugs were knocked out by an unbearable load. Having examined the machines supplied by the builders, you will see: the nominal value is limited to 16 amperes. The load of one plug is 2.5 kW, if the value is exceeded for a long time, shutdowns are possible. Most modern devices cut off power after a couple of hours when the nominal value is exceeded by 15%.

Draw conclusions yourself or put other protective equipment. Today it is possible to buy a meter equipped with relay protection against overload, if the light of the hall is not so important, the water heater will wait, it is logical to put a branch on the appropriate terminal, it will be cut down with a power exceeding the nominal value. "Important" devices will continue to work. Try to divide powerful consumers into equal groups, supply each branch with the same consumption. Provides some protection against possible overload. In the future, turn on the equipment wisely: starting the washing machine knocks out traffic jams, try using an outlet on a different branch, where there is no consumption right now. As for this particular device, an emergency shutdown is caused by a burned-out heating element, less often it closes the motor windings. Infrequently, the electronic unit becomes the cause of the behavior of the washing machine.

Malfunction of traffic jams, household appliances

Circuit breakers cannot be tested (excluding differential circuit breakers). There is no test button, in the closed state the tester gives zero resistance. It seems that a seemingly serviceable automatic protection device turns out to be unusable. We’ll check the single-pole one like this: remove it from the shield, start it through an extension cord to any outlet in the house. Turn on, for example, a soldering iron or table lamp, see if it knocks out (the second machine on the shield is obviously good). The lever flies out - the device is broken. You just need to buy a new one, choosing an equal rated current, the number of poles (only the phase breaks - one pole).

Try to take a machine with similar characteristics. The kettle knocks out plugs, hold off thinking that it will be enough to increase the rated current. A rash move will cause the insulation to melt, resulting in the worst case mentioned above. The kettle does not function adequately - grab a Chinese tester. The resistance of the device to alternating current is 30 ohms, for the tester (auxiliary voltage is constant), the figure is sometimes different (lower than the real one). The main thing is that there is no short circuit.

Having prepared to ring the electric kettle, unplug the plug from the socket, press the switch. Water should be poured out. We call the mutual resistance of the plug pins. It turns out too much (more than 30), we flip the switch, the complexity is limited by poor contact. Zero resistance is noticed, it's time to scold the burnt coil. Inside there is a backlight LED, the current of which is limited by a resistor. Resistance is often black, call by all means. You'll have to disassemble the body.

Often the washing machine knocks out traffic jams, the burned-out heating element is to blame. Please note that the machines turn off when the grounding of the socket is equipped correctly. Sometimes the drain pump is to blame. In the first case, it is clear: the copper (steel) sheath was pierced, the phase reached the case, grounded abnormally. In the second case, 230 volts are waiting in the wings, there are no direct leakage paths. It will hit one of the residents, it is immediately clear why the plugs were knocked out and it does not turn back on. The drainage pump will start working, a bridge will form leading to the sewer, through which the current will surely rush. The latter will be the cause.

This case explains the undesirability of removing wastewater in an abnormal way. The townsfolk pour a bathtub with a drainage hose. Washing person may be electrocuted. The result is determined by passing charges.

Change the heating element. Before switching on a new heater, check, according to general rules, insulation resistance (20 MΩ). External installation required (standard 500V insulation meter). There are no other methods, you can set the maximum scale for measuring the resistance of the tester, make sure: it shows the maximum. It will be enough to avoid accidents, with an insulation resistance of 20 kΩ, a current of 11 mA will be generated.

The iron knocks out corks when water gets inside. Take your time to rush to disassemble the device, first drain the reserve of the tank, dry it thoroughly. Then ring from the side of the plug, fixing the break, try turning the temperature controller. We are sure that readers now know the order - what to do if traffic jams in the apartment are knocked out. The main thing is to stock up on new ones. The cause may be careless handling of electrical appliances. Sometimes, you know why the plugs were knocked out - and you forgot to buy new ones.

Another reason to put automatic protection. You can experiment as much as you like, the price of a mistake is small.

If a lot of liquid got into the outlet (for example, the neighbors flooded it from above), then a short circuit could occur, and a fire could result from it (although a fire is unlikely due to the socket being wet and the plugs being knocked out).

To prevent this from happening, it is advisable to take a number of actions.

First turn off the electricity (in residential multi-storey buildings, electricity is usually turned off at the meter).

Then check if it turned off (for example, try turning on the light).

Below it will be the socket itself. Wipe the insides with a dry cloth. If there is a lot of water, you can completely remove the outlet from the wall. To remove the built-in socket, you need to loosen the screws on the side horns that hold the socket in the wall. If you are afraid that some wiring will come off and then you will not be able to assemble it back, then do not remove the outlet.

After wiping with a cloth, leave the outlet and the wall around it to dry. Once dry, screw the plastic case back on and turn on the electricity.

If the wall and the outlet are flooded dramatically (for example, water is still pouring from the ceiling from the neighbors above), and it will dry for many hours, and you need to use electricity right now, then you can simply “defuse” this wet outlet for a while. You just need to remove it entirely, disconnecting it from the electrical wiring. Then the ends of these wires are well insulated with electrical tape, so that there are no bare spots left at all. And bend them far away from each other and from the wall along which water can flow. The ends should be in weight and not touch anything at all, because if they touch wet, then firstly, water can soak the adhesive tape, and secondly, water can seep into the cracks. Water conducts electricity well, plus if the wire touches the wet metal rim, then electricity can go through it and close with another wire (this is if both wires touch the wet metal intra-receptacle rim). It is precisely both wiring that needs to be insulated, since if only one is insulated, then during a "flood", from uninsulated wiring can wet wall and a current flow through the wet floor and close with some electrical device lying on the floor (although all electrical devices must be removed from the wet floor). Yes, they say that a certain part of the current is also present in the person himself, as, perhaps, it can close on the person. Once I held one wire from the subscriber speaker (network radio) in my hand, and inserted the other into the radio socket, and the radio spoke (both ends had to be in the socket for this). This means, I believe, that the subscriber loudspeaker had enough electricity that was in me. Then I realized that there was uninsulated electricity in me too. And this means that if electricity flows through the wet floor, it can close with electricity inside the human body, therefore, when wet, it is undesirable to leave one wire uninsulated.

In general, by disconnecting the wires from the outlet and reliably protecting them from touching everything conductive, you can turn on the electricity using other outlets. Further, after the complete drying of that part of the wall and the outlet device itself, you can reinstall the outlet back (turning off the current before that).

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