Insulation of the roof of the attic floor. How to properly and how to insulate a mansard roof

The attic floor is often used for housing, so it is necessary to carry out the insulation correctly in order to create comfortable conditions. The technology is similar to similar work in any other room, but the peculiarity is that the attic is separated from the street by gables and roofing, and not by capital walls. All surfaces need to be insulated, and since they differ in device, the installation of the insulation is carried out in different ways.

What is the best way to insulate a mansard roof

Usually on the attic floor there is no bearing walls, with high thermal insulation characteristics, therefore, the insulation of the roof and gables should be carried out especially carefully and efficiently. Only in this way you can feel comfortable and cozy in the attic both in summer and in winter.

Compared to roof attic space and capital walls, it is clear that she cannot compete with them in terms of thermal insulation. In addition, the roof cannot withstand heavy loads. All this must be taken into account when choosing a heater.

Properly insulated attic can significantly increase the living space of the house

In order to maximize the usable volume of the attic floor, the following rules must be followed during its construction:

• to reduce the load on the truss system, light roofing materials are chosen; in this case, it is not recommended to use natural tiles;
• to reduce the layer of the roofing cake, modern and effective heat-insulating materials are chosen;
• special attention is paid to the organization of ventilation of the roof space, otherwise moisture will accumulate in the room and the thermal insulation properties will deteriorate.

Properly performed ventilation and waterproofing of the mansard roof allows moisture to be removed from under the roof space, which ensures effective thermal insulation and long term services of the materials used.

For the attic roof it is necessary to choose light materials

The number of required layers and the thickness of the heat-insulating “pie” depend on the choice of insulation. The attic has its own design features, so the insulation must meet the following requirements:

• have low thermal conductivity, experts recommend using materials with a coefficient below 0.05 W / m * K;
• due to possible roof leaks, the insulation must be moisture resistant and lose a minimum of its properties after getting wet;
• have a small weight so as not to overload the rafter system, it depends on the density of the material, which should be in the range of 14–50 kg / m 3, it is not recommended to use denser heaters;
• should not burn and support combustion;
• since the heat-insulating material is laid on the roof, this requires that it keeps its shape well and does not slip over time, forming gaps;
• withstand significant temperature changes, not be afraid of frost;
• have a long service life.

Materials for insulation

For the insulation of the attic roof, the following materials are most often used:

1. Mineral wool. This perfect solution, it does not burn and does not support the combustion process, it is easy to fit, has a low weight, high thermal insulation characteristics. In addition, mineral wool has an affordable cost, therefore it is popular and in demand. Depending on the location of the insulated building, the thickness of its layer can be from 150 to 300 mm. The main disadvantage is that this material absorbs moisture well, so you need to make high-quality waterproofing.

   Mineral wool can be in rolls and mats, it is more difficult to insulate the roof with rolled materials

2. Styrofoam or expanded polystyrene. This material has a low weight, good thermal insulation characteristics, low moisture permeability, but its main drawback is high degree fire hazard. During the laying of the foam, it crumbles, so there are gaps that must be additionally sealed. After some time, the foam plastic, unprotected from external factors, begins to gradually collapse, therefore, experts do not recommend warming the attic with this material.

   To insulate the attic, it is necessary to use foam plastic with a thickness of at least 50 mm, if necessary, it can be laid in several layers

3. Extruded polystyrene foam. This is a good insulation for these works, as it is durable, not afraid of moisture, does not burn and keeps its shape well. A sufficient layer of material is 5–10 cm. Extruded polystyrene foam has a low vapor permeability, therefore, in order to create comfortable conditions in the attic, it is necessary to do it right supply and exhaust ventilation, and this is additional time and costs. In addition, its price is higher than that of conventional foam.

   When insulating the roof with extruded polystyrene, good ventilation is necessary

4. Polyurethane foam. For installation, special equipment is used, which allows you to apply the material without cracks and gaps. It has good thermal insulation characteristics, low weight, does not burn, moisture-proof, but its disadvantage is low vapor permeability. Without the organization of forced ventilation, it will be uncomfortable to be in such a room due to high humidity.

   It will not be possible to carry out work on insulation with polyurethane foam on your own, as professional equipment is needed

5. Ecowool. This is the most suitable material for attic insulation. It is also applied without gaps, penetrates into all cracks and fills them well, is not afraid of moisture, does not burn, is light in weight and has good vapor permeability, and is environmentally friendly. In addition to the fact that the cost of this material is high, it will not work to insulate the attic with ecowool on its own, therefore, specialists will have to be invited to perform these works.

   Special equipment is used to apply ecowool

6. foil materials. They not only insulate the room, but also reflect heat. In order for such materials to effectively fulfill their purpose, the mirror layer must be directed inside the attic. A gap of about 5 cm is left between the insulation and the vapor barrier.

   Foil insulation is used for hydro, heat and sound insulation.

In each case, the choice of the most effective insulation for the attic must be approached individually. Using mineral wool the heat-insulating "pie" can be disassembled, the condition of the rafters assessed and, if necessary, carried out repair work and then put everything back in place. If sprayed materials were used, then it will not be possible to inspect the rafters.

The better to insulate the roof of the attic from the inside

When choosing materials for attic insulation from the inside, the climatic conditions in which the house is located are taken into account. Each material has its pros and cons. The most popular and affordable material with which the attic is insulated from the inside is basalt wool. Installation is carried out in several layers, while overlapping the seams. Usually a layer 15–20 cm thick is sufficient.

Basalt wool is laid in several layers

Professionals often use polyurethane foam. It has high adhesion, so after application there are no gaps left. Polyurethane foam has high thermal insulation characteristics, so it is applied in a smaller layer, unlike other materials, which will need much more. But keep in mind that the cost of this material is high and without special equipment installation will fail. Expanded polystyrene plates are often used, the thickness of the required layer will depend on the density of the material used.

If you are insulating the mansard roof from the inside yourself, then it is best to use expanded polystyrene, basalt or mineral wool, as they are simply mounted. Often they are combined: first mineral wool is laid, and then expanded polystyrene plates.

How to properly insulate the roof of the attic

The technology for carrying out these works is not difficult, especially if the insulation is performed with mineral wool. During the installation of thermal insulation, personal safety measures must be observed: be sure to wear tight and closed clothing, use goggles, gloves and a respirator.

Work sequence:

1. Preparatory stage. All wooden surfaces well treated with antiseptics, metal parts are coated with anti-corrosion impregnation.

   Treatment of wooden roof elements with an antiseptic can significantly increase their service life.

2. Waterproofing attachment. A waterproofing film is fixed on the rafters, and a crate is mounted on top. The waterproofing material is overlapped between the crate and the rafters, all seams are glued with a mounting film, for example, Ondutis BL or Ondutis ML. First, the tape is attached to the canvas located below, it is done 5–6 cm from the edge, then it is removed from the tape protective layer and fix the top sheet. Laying material is carried out from the lower slope of the roof. First, the film is fixed with a stapler, and then wooden counter-rails are installed to create a ventilation gap. You can fasten the slats to the rafters with nails or powerful staples, but it is better to do this with self-tapping screws. Then proceed to the installation of insulation.

   Laying of insulating layers is carried out in a certain sequence.

3. Heater installation. The insulation is laid between the rafters, work starts from the bottom and gradually moves up. In order for the insulation to fit snugly, its size should slightly exceed the distance between the beams. To fix the insulation, special anchors or frost-resistant glue are used. This applies to roll and plate insulation, such as mineral wool, polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam. Ecowool and polyurethane foam are applied using a special installation, so there are no unfilled voids.
4. Vapor barrier attachment. After laying the last layer of insulation, the installation of a vapor barrier is carried out. It is attached to a wooden crate laid on a heat-insulating layer. Do not stretch the vapor barrier membrane too much, it should sag by 2–3 cm, this will ensure that there is a ventilation gap between the thermal insulation and the exterior finish.
5. The final stage - installation finishing materials. To do this, a crate is made over the laid vapor barrier, you can use wooden slats or metallic profile, and already on it, with the help of special screws, sheets of drywall, plywood, chipboard or lining are fixed.

   Installation of drywall is carried out on a metal or wooden crate, which is attached to the rafters over the vapor barrier

When installing the insulation, the plates should be tightly adjacent to each other, and to eliminate cold bridges, it is recommended to lay a second layer with overlapping joints.

Useful tips for choosing and installing various types of insulation:

• if mineral wool or fiberglass is used, then to ensure high thermal insulation characteristics, their layer should be 15–20 cm;
• basalt wool can withstand temperatures up to 1000 ° C, does not absorb moisture, but it is damaged by rodents;
• 2.5 cm layer of polyurethane foam thermal insulation characteristics corresponds to an 8 cm layer of mineral wool;
• A 15 cm layer of ecowool in terms of thermal insulation characteristics corresponds to a 50 cm wood;
• so that the rolled or slab material fits snugly between the rafters, its width must exceed the distance between them by 1–2 cm.

Features of installing insulation for a mansard roof

When designing a building with an attic floor, it is necessary to correctly calculate the distance between the rafters in order to ensure maximum structural strength. When installing insulation between the rafters, it is necessary to lay the material back to back so that there are no gaps left, otherwise cold bridges form.

Only correct styling of all elements will effectively insulate the attic

During the installation of waterproofing, all work is carried out from the lower slope of the roof and the material is overlapped. On top of the insulation mats, it is recommended to lay another continuous layer that will completely cover the rafters. Wooden or metal rafters have a higher thermal conductivity than insulation and are cold bridges. If they are closed with insulating material, it will be inconvenient to mount the finishing elements. To simplify this task, it is necessary to mark the location of the rafters during the installation of the last layer of insulation.

If we talk about the insulation of the mansard roof from the inside, then not all materials are convenient to install, it is almost impossible to lay roll insulation normally. To strengthen the rafter system, various connections are often used, which complicate the laying of the insulation layer.

Video: attic roof insulation from the inside

Insulation of the pediment of the attic from the outside

When insulating the pediment from the outside, most specialists and home craftsmen use extruded polystyrene foam or ordinary foam. To carry out this work, you will need scaffolding, since doing everything with the help of a ladder will be difficult, long and tiring.

The technology of warming the pediment from the outside consists of the following steps:

1. First, the walls are prepared. To do this, they are cleaned of dirt, and then primed. The primer will allow the adhesive to show its characteristics better. It is recommended to prime in two layers, the second is applied after the first has dried.
2. If you plan to use a finishing material such as siding, then for its fastening it is necessary to make a crate. It can be made of wooden beams or galvanized profiles. The height of the crate should correspond to the thickness of the insulation used.

   To make it easier to install the foam, the step of the crate should be equal to the width of the sheet, then the material will lie tightly and the waste will be minimal

3. The foam sheet in the corners and in the center is smeared with glue and pressed for 30-35 seconds to the surface of the gable.
4. If the foam will be plastered, then it is better to additionally fix it with plastic dowels.

   If the foam will be plastered, it must be fixed with dowels, and if siding is mounted, then it is enough to fix it only with glue

5. After laying the insulation, a waterproofing film is attached. If the crate is wooden, then this is done with a stapler, and it is fixed to the profile with the help of a counter-crate, on which the siding is then attached. To create a gap between waterproofing and decorative trim, the thickness of the crate should be 20–30 mm.
6. At the last stage, the siding is installed or the foam is plastered, and then painted.

   Both metal and vinyl siding can be used to finish the gable.

Video: attic gable insulation

It is not difficult to insulate the attic with your own hands, it is enough to have basic knowledge and skillful hands. If we talk about the insulation of the pediment, then when using a hinged facade, it is better to take such heat-insulating material as mineral wool. If the facade is wet, then it is better to insulate with foam. Only with the observance of the developed technologies and the correct implementation of the stages of work on the insulation of the attic, the expected result will be obtained. If everything is done correctly, then you can use the attic as a living space throughout the year.

Mansard roof insulation: video instruction

The diagram shows the correct order of the elements. thermal insulation system mansard roof

What is the reason for this arrangement of layers? Elementary laws of physics. Imagine that a decent layer of snow fell in winter, which, by the way, is a natural heat insulator. As a result of the life of people living in mansard house, warm air will rise from the inside to the roof surface.

The snow covering it will melt. And as soon as the temperature outside drops below zero, an ice crust forms, which no longer has any heat-insulating properties. essence proper insulation the roof of the attic is to prevent the snow from melting in winter and the penetration of scorching heat in summer.

The scheme of air movement in the under-roof space, and the work of the vapor barrier during the insulation of the mansard roof

The marking of the rows is carried out with the help of a cord fixed on the counter-lattice, which is located on opposite sides of the roof slope (read also the article: “Crate step for corrugated board”).

Desire of many owners country houses maximize the use of the area of ​​​​the house, makes them pay attention to the attic. It often happens that it is easier to equip an attic than to expand a house by adding a residential building to it. Since the attic is part of the roof of the house, it is with the thermal insulation of the roof that the arrangement of the attic floor should begin. Consider how to properly insulate the attic with mineral wool and show detailed video topic instructions.

It is necessary to insulate the attic with mineral wool and equip the attic for the room, if the roof of the house allows you to make the ceiling in this room of sufficient height and it will be possible to strengthen interfloor ceilings to safely walk in the attic.

If these two conditions are feasible, then you can safely proceed to independent thermal insulation of the attic with basalt mineral wool for living in winter.

We reviewed various grades of mineral wool, their purpose and characteristics in the Inorganic Thermal Insulation section. Therefore, we will not dwell on this topic separately.

• Features of insulation and materials for thermal insulation of the attic from the inside with your own hands
• Do-it-yourself attic insulation methods
• The procedure for insulating the roof and walls of the attic
• Wall insulation

An attic is an attic space equipped for people to live or for any household needs (greenhouse, office, etc.). Depending on what the room is intended for, its layout and the type of attic roof can be of different configurations, but General requirements, in accordance with which the attic must be insulated from the inside, remain the same.

The layout of the insulation in the roof of the attic.

You need to understand that this room, unlike all the others, is colder, because. on top it does not have any "thermal cushion". That is why the insulation of the attic of the house from the inside, performed by oneself, should be of especially high quality. Based on this, you should also choose a heater, with the use of which insulation will be performed.

The difficulty lies in the fact that the surfaces are uneven, because. under the roof there are rafter beams that will have to be bypassed. The waterproofing layer will need to be brought under the roof in order to drain the condensate. In the process of organizing work on the insulation of the roof and walls of the attic from the inside with your own hands, it is necessary to take into account that the end walls also need to be covered, because. It is through them that a huge amount of heat escapes.

Scheme of attic insulation.

Every a private house has its own characteristics, shape and configuration of the roof, the material of the walls and roofing. Therefore, for each individual house there may be some special, clarifying recommendations, according to which it is necessary to carry out the insulation of the roof and walls of the attic of a private house from the inside with your own hands.

In order for the insulation to be of high quality and reliable, you need to choose the right materials. The choice of material with which it is better to carry out the insulation of the roof and walls of the attic of the house from the inside with your own hands depends on many factors: the design of the roof, roofing material, climate in the area, etc.

Styrofoam is one of the least expensive and most popular materials with which you can insulate the attic of a private house from the inside with your own hands. It is easy to process and install. However, it is characterized by a small vapor permeability, which means that the room can be damp. So, if the attic will be used as a living space, it is better to insulate it with other material.

You can correctly and efficiently insulate a residential attic with your own hands using polystyrene foam. When laying this material virtually no seams.

Mineral wool is an excellent material in all respects.

Having high strength, basalt mineral wool is fireproof, practically does not conduct heat and does not absorb moisture. Since this material has elasticity, it holds well at the installation site, resting on the edges of the rafters. So it is best to insulate the walls of a residential attic from the inside with this material. you will be able to properly insulate your home with mineral wool, even if you have never worked with this material before.

In addition to insulation, it is necessary to arrange waterproofing, vapor barrier and ventilation system. A properly installed waterproofing membrane will perform the following functions:

• ensure the protection of structural elements from atmospheric precipitation;
• prevent the penetration of moisture into the insulation.

Waterproofing must be laid on a layer of insulation. Among the waterproofing films, the following are distinguished:

• diffusion and breathable superdiffusion;
• anti-condensation waterproofing.

The vapor barrier consists of several layers of reinforced polyethylene film, which provides good protection structures from condensate.

The ventilation system is needed in order to ensure the outflow of exhaust and inflow of fresh air, and to effectively maintain normal air humidity in the attic room.

Attic insulation scheme.

There are several methods, according to which you can properly insulate the attic of the house from the inside with your own hands.

Insulation between existing rafters is one of the most commonly used methods. At this method the insulation is laid directly on the waterproofing, to the entire height of the rafter legs. The slabs should be 10-15 mm wider than the gaps between the rafters.

Thermal insulation over rafters. It is immediately necessary to carry out all the finishing work from the inside, and lay the heat-insulating material on the rafters under the roofing.

Another popular way is to insulate the attic under the rafters. This method is not used in residential construction and for low-rise buildings, however, for industrial buildings it is the best option.

There are also combined schemes. The most popular scheme includes insulation under the rafters and between them. At the same time, the rafters themselves completely overlap. The vapor barrier film must be laid on top of the layer of thermal insulation material. Among the shortcomings, one can single out a slight decrease in the usable space of the attic itself.

Attic insulation scheme: insulation, vapor barrier, waterproofing.

To insulate the attic with your own hands, you will need the following materials and tools:

• foam sheets or mineral wool;
• waterproofing film;
• wooden bars;
• vapor barrier film;
• scissors;
• sharp knife;
• construction stapler;
• nails;
• assembly foam.

First of all, waterproofing must be laid along the rafters. The film is laid over the entire height - from the bottom to the roof ridge. However, this is not done in all cases, because roofing material sometimes also performs the functions of such an insulator. If the coating is made, for example, from roofing iron, it will be quite enough.

When installing this material, you need to remember that some distance should be left between it and the roof. This air gap is necessary to ensure high-quality ventilation at the installation site of the insulation. The thickness of the air gap depends on the material of your roof covering. If the material has a wavy shape (metal tile, tile), then the air gap must be at least 25 mm.

Another important point is that the thickness of the insulator plates and rafters can be different. In case the plates are “thinner”, the first layer is laid between the rafters, and the second one must be laid on the rafters. If the slabs are thicker, wooden slats must be stuffed onto the rafters.

To protect the thermal insulation material from excessive moisture, a vapor barrier must be applied from above. As you know, warm air tends to rise and condense there. That is why the device of such protection is mandatory. As a material for the vapor barrier layer, polyethylene film, glassine, foil materials, roofing felt are used.

Wall insulation

How to build a mansard roof - step by step guide

The attic, which allows you to effectively use the floor area of ​​​​a private house, is a rather complicated design. As a rule, homeowners entrust its construction to experienced craftsmen - roofers. But if you are a carpenter and are not afraid of difficulties, then you can certainly cope with the task yourself.

For the device of the attic floor, instead of the usual attic, the following types of roofs are suitable (shown in the diagram below):

• ordinary gable with a slope of 45 ° or more (steep);
• broken roof;
• four-slope semi-hip.

Note. As can be seen from the diagram, various half-hip coverings are complicated gable roofs, so it makes no sense to consider them separately. In terms of design, the multi-gable design shown in the photo is of interest, but decent experience is needed to build it.

A gable mansard roof is the simplest in execution and economical in terms of material consumption. But you will have to pay for this with a smaller usable area and sloping walls of the attached floor, which do not allow you to place tall furniture. This will not be a problem if it is planned to equip a bedroom in the attic - the beds will calmly stand near the longitudinal walls. Another way to resolve the issue is to raise the truss system to the required height, as shown in the drawing below.

Roofing with broken shapes is the most popular option, since it allows you to make full-fledged living rooms upstairs. If protruding windows are not provided on its slopes, then according to the installation technology, such a roof is not much more complicated than a gable roof, although the consumption of building materials will increase. To simplify your choice, we suggest reviewing and comparing the 3 most common options for an attic add-on for a private house standard sizes 6 x 6 m:

1. Steep roof with two pitches inclined at an angle of 45°.
2. A broken structure, where the lower rafters are inclined at an angle of 60 °, and the upper - 30 °.
3. Same as option 1, only the trusses are raised to a height of 60 cm, and the rafter legs are at an angle of 37.5 °.

For convenience, we have depicted all three structures in one drawing, which can be taken as a basis for future construction.

Note. A board was taken as the main building material for the manufacture of rafters and other frame elements. cross section 50 x 150 mm.

To choose the best of the three options, we suggest studying comparison table, where the parameters of attic rooms are presented based on 1 linear meter of the length of the building.

Knowing the length of the roof slopes indicated in the plate, you can roughly estimate the consumption of building materials for the frame, coating and insulation. The following table makes it possible to evaluate total area rooms on the second floor when implementing all 3 solutions in private houses with different sizes.

Do-it-yourself attic rafters must withstand the following loads during the entire period of operation:

• own weight;
• mass of roofing and insulation;
• maximum wind gusts for the area;
• snow cover pressure.

Reference. With a roof slope of more than 45 °, snow practically does not linger on it, and at 60 ° it is not taken into account at all in the calculations. But the wind pressure increases due to the height of the structure and its position close to vertical.

The result of the calculations should be 2 parameters - the cross section of the rafters with beams (otherwise - puffs) and the step of their installation. It is a mistake to think that the dimensions of the wooden beams of the roof grow along with the loads on it. The maximum rigidity of the structure is achieved through the use of roof trusses made of logs with a diameter of 120-200 mm or lumber with a thickness of 40 to 200 mm, installed in increments of 50-120 cm. If you are not a civil engineer, you will not be able to determine these values ​​more precisely, since the technique pretty complicated.

Let us explain the calculation method with an example. Let us assume that the snow load on a flat surface (projection pitched roof) in your area is 100 kg / m², the slope is 60 °, the span is 4.5 m (to the strut), the pitch of the rafters is 120 cm. The roofing is slate. We believe:

1. The actual weight of the snow cover: 100 x 0.32 = 32 kg / m². The slope factor of 0.32 is taken from Table 2 below.
2. The specific weight of a slate coating with a conventional profile is 25 kg / m².
3. General specific gravity- 32 25 \u003d 60 kg / m².
4. We calculate the specific gravity per 1 linear meter of rafters by multiplying 60 kg / m² by an installation step of 1.2 m. We get 72 kg.
5. We return to table No. 1 and select the cross section of the beam along the length of the span. We accept a load of 100 kg per 1 meter of rafters (with a margin). A log with a diameter of 140 mm, a board of 40 x 200 mm and other materials whose dimensions are in the same horizontal line are suitable.

Reference. When installing a broken mansard roof, 2 types of rafters are used - layered and hanging. On a gable roof, only hanging ones are used, what is the difference between them, is shown in the diagram.

The proposed method is suitable for small houses rectangular shape dimensions 6 x 6 m. To build a mansard roof on a large cottage, it is strongly recommended to contact specialists - designers for calculations.

The simplified method presented below involves the installation of a mansard sloping roof in 2 stages: assembly of roof trusses on the ground and subsequent installation on finished walls lumber or log house. Structural material protruding boards with a section of 15 x 5 and 10 x 5 cm standard length 6 m

The beginning of the assembly - the formation of the upper belt of the truss system

Step by step technology looks like this:

1. Prepare the beams of the lower chord of the truss, taking into account the roof overhangs 25-27 cm on each side. If the length of the beam is not enough, it must be increased using a lining of the same section, nailed.
2. Lay the beam on the ground and attach the vertical posts to it with corners that form the walls of the attic room. Install the ceiling beam and support for the ridge (headstock), then attach two boards to it and the corners of the frame hanging rafters for marking, as it is done in the photo.
3. Cut the elements in place and secure them. From the remaining parts of the boards, make layered (lower) rafter legs in the same way and nail them to the frame. The farm is ready.
4. Make the rest of the trusses in the same way.

Advice. As a rule, windows or doors to the balcony are provided on the front gables. It is also convenient to make racks and belts for their installation on the ground, as well as sheathe openings with clapboard.

Finished frames rise to the walls and are alternately fixed in place, starting from the first pediment. To prevent it from falling, install spacers and nail them to the walls of the log house. The second and subsequent farms are placed in the design position and connected to each other by boards.

After placing the rafters, they must be fixed to the walls in the following ways:

• staples to the second crown of logs or beams from above;
• on steel corners and galvanized screws, as shown in the photo.

What is the best way to insulate a mansard roof

As mentioned above, the most popular material for insulating a mansard roof is mineral wool. It is good, but not at all ideal: it is afraid of moisture. That is why it requires such careful protection from all sides so that it retains its properties.

Sheathe the roof with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam - EPS. Polyfoam (grades PSB-S-25, PSB-S-35) has good characteristics, but when burned, it emits harmful substances, although there are self-extinguishing brands (with special additives). Here they are better for roof insulation for roof insulation.

The main advantage of polyfoam: low price. It is mounted simply: it is placed between the rafters, all joints are sealed with mounting foam. It is convenient to insulate the attic from the inside with foam plastic: order the plates of the right size - 10-15 mm more than the gap between the rafters - and put them tightly. Due to the elasticity, they hold very well.

From the side of the roof, a ventilation gap is also left and waterproofing is laid. But she is more protective. wooden structure, since polystyrene foam is not afraid of moisture, it practically does not absorb it itself, it does not conduct steam. This is where the main drawback lies. Since the material does not let the vapor through, a good ventilation system is needed in the attic, and this is an additional cost.

XPS has best performance: under equal conditions, its thickness is two times less than mineral wool of the specified density and one and a half times less than that of polystyrene. It also has a system of locks, which reduces the risk of cracks, through which heat will fly away. Another plus: mice and insects do not like extruded polystyrene foam, fungi and mold do not multiply on it. What limits its use: a solid price. You also need a ventilation system.

EPPS brands - Ekstrol, STEREKS, PENOPLEX, URSA XPS, Technoplex, PRIMAPLEX (PRIMAPLEX), Styrofoam (Stirofoam), KINPLAST (KINPLAST), Teploizolit, GREENPLEX (GREENPLEX). While the technology is the same, there are some differences in performance, so compare when choosing.

Not so long ago, a new type of insulation appeared: expanded polystyrene foam. It is applied in liquid form to the surface, reacting with air, increases in size many times, filling all the cracks and forming a monolithic layer. This is perhaps the only way today to correct the situation and insulate the attic with high quality, if during the installation of the roofing they forgot to lay a layer of waterproofing.

Ecowool

This insulation has good characteristics (thermal conductivity coefficient 0.036-0.040 W / m² ° C), but a special application technology. It is necessary to organize a closed cavity into which the composition is poured. In the case of a mansard roof, the side parts are rafters, sheet material (fiberboard, GVL, plywood, etc.) is nailed to them from below and from above.

A feeding sleeve is launched into the formed cavity, from which loosened cotton wool comes out under pressure. It fills all the cavities, forming a single layer of insulation.

The main advantage of ecowool compared to all the heaters described above is that it conducts steam. It can absorb moisture up to 20% of the volume, and then give it away. That is, there is no need to organize a vapor barrier: humidity is regulated in a natural way, as is the case with wood. The ventilation gap between the roof and the insulation should be all the same, as well as a properly organized movement air masses in him.

There are four most important criteria, based on which it is necessary to choose a high-quality insulation for a mansard roof:

• Thermal conductivity;
• moisture resistance;
• fire safety;
• Ecological purity.

The first parameter can be called decisive, since it is precisely on how low the thermal conductivity of the material you choose depends on its thickness, the number of layers, and most importantly, its efficiency.

Important Insulation for a mansard roof with a coefficient of thermal conductivity not higher than 0.05 W / m * K can be considered sufficiently high-quality and reliable.

The second indicator is also important, especially for the attic roof truss system made of wood. The resistance of the insulation to moisture will allow you to worry less about the possibility of damage and decay of wood. Why the fire safety of insulating materials is important, it is probably unnecessary to say. And, finally, the environmental friendliness of the insulation in the case of attic rooms is also of great importance, especially if it is a bedroom or a children's room in the attic.

Comparative table of building and finishing materials with an indication of their thermal conductivity coefficient

As shown in the picture above, insulating a mansard roof with ecowool is an excellent solution, since this mineral insulation meets all four criteria for choosing a material. However, it cannot be called the most affordable, so many craftsmen refuse to use ecowool in favor of cheaper, but no less effective heaters.

• Basalt wool;
• glass wool;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• Styrofoam.

First, consider the most important question - the better to insulate the attic with foam or mineral wool. Let's determine which heat-insulating material is suitable for proper insulation of the roof of the attic floor.

To do this, the following parameters should be taken into account: thermal conductivity coefficient, resistance to high temperatures and moisture, fire safety, environmental friendliness and low weight.

Most of these requirements are met by fiberglass or mineral wool. Unlike basalt insulation, Technoplex expanded polystyrene does not withstand high temperatures and is a very combustible material.

Knauf glass wool and Rocklight basalt wool is a fire-resistant and fire-resistant material, and with high-quality vapor barrier, mineral wool will not be afraid of moisture.

Comparison building materials thermal conductivity

Mineral wool is made from natural material - basalt. The material has a density of 18 to 45 kg / m³, has good heat-insulating and sound-absorbing properties.

When the question arises about the insulation of the roof structure, all kinds of materials that are intended for such purposes are of paramount consideration. What is the best insulation for a mansard roof?

Taking into account all the individual design parameters, they choose the material from those offered on the market in accordance with their characteristics.

When choosing a material, it is worth starting from the individual situation, because some of the disadvantages of the material in a certain situation become advantages.

These types of materials are the most popular, especially for the do-it-yourself warming process. They are characterized by a high level of thermal conductivity and fire safety.

The installation of insulation is quite simple, while there are no gaps between it. During operation, the shape remains the same, does not change, which ensures a long service life.

In addition, the sound insulation properties for these types of insulation are also on high level. The cost of heaters is low, while they are safe to use and environmentally friendly.

Their differences are in the raw materials that are used for production. mineral variety produced from molten rocks, and glass wool from glass melt. With regards to the thermal threshold, it is lower for glass wool than for the mineral counterpart, but it is resistant to freezing.

Present in the characteristics of these heaters and disadvantages that should be considered when choosing. Due to the fact that the level of moisture and vapor absorption is quite high, when wet, it loses most of its properties, which leads to the need for a complete re-equipment of the roof insulation layer.

The attic is located under the roof of the house. The upper floors have more contact with the external environment than the lower ones.

For this reason, heating in an uninsulated attic room will become useless.

Without high-quality thermal insulation of the attic, icicles can form. They appear due to outgoing heat flows from inside the house, which make the snow melt on the roof.

The attic room will eliminate the penetration of heat from the outside and keep the warm air in the house.

Roof insulation prevents condensation. The difference in the temperature of the attic and the street suggests the appearance of water droplets. Without proper insulation, there is a chance of occurrence mold.

The attic roof insulation technology is not as simple as it might seem at first glance, and this article will be a visual aid for those who do not know how to insulate the attic roof from the inside with their own hands. If you are planning, then be sure to read the article at the link.

In this article, you will learn how to insulate a mansard roof for winter residence and how to choose the right heater.

Before starting the insulation of the mansard roof of a private house, you need to choose a heater suitable for these purposes. Each type has a different number of layers and thickness of thermal insulation. There are several types of roofing heat-insulating materials for insulating the roof of the attic floor:

• Mineral wool. For its production, certain rocks are used. The advantages include increased fire resistance, good thermal insulation properties, maximum mold resistance and decay. The disadvantages are the large mass and moisture permeability. Thermal insulation of a mansard roof with mineral wool is not only cheap, but also practical. We talked about the insulation of the roof with mineral wool in.
• glass wool. Now obsolete, but still a fairly well-known type of material. To obtain it, glass melting is required. It has excellent thermal insulation properties. Does not absorb moisture, is not afraid of fire, insects and decay. The disadvantages include the penetration of glass microparticles into the lungs of a person, which can cause serious harm health. After some time, it may begin to crumble into small particles.
• polyurethane foam. It mainly consists of an inert gas phase. It is divided into two types - soft and hard. Very light, provides quality insulation heat and noise, not afraid of water. PPU is flammable enough. Read more.
• Styrofoam. It is a foam. Available in the form of foam or extruded. Its raw material is polystyrene granules. pros- environmentally friendly material, lightweight, moisture resistant, has good heat and noise insulation properties. TO cons include the lack of resistance to fire and the destruction of the foam under mechanical stress.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

The thickness of the insulation is different meanings in the regions of construction. Heat air implies a smaller thickness of insulation. Areas dominated by low temperature - thick insulation.

Attic roofs have 3 types of enclosing structures:

1. Attic floor
2. Coating
3. Gable walls

They differ in heat resistance. Much less heat escapes through the walls of a building than through a coating.
The thickness of the material is selected individually depending on the type of construction.

NOTE!

The thickness of the mansard roof insulation is calculated according to SNiP II-3-79 or according to the universal formula:

δ ut \u003d (R - 0.16 - δ 1 / λ 1 - δ 2 / λ 2 - δ i / λ i) × λ ut

• δ ut - material thickness
• δ i - expresses the design layer thickness of the structure;
• R - heat resistance of the structure for a certain area, (m² × ° С / W)
• λ i - the degree of thermal conductivity of the insulation layer of the structure, (W / m × ° C),
• λ ut - coefficient of thermal conductivity of thermal insulation, W / (m ° C).

An example of calculating the thickness of the insulation

Let's say that the attic sheathing is carried out from the inside. In order: lining made of wood, vapor insulation made of polyethylene film, mineral wool, air gap and roofing material. Thickness is entered in the formula each layer, their coefficient of thermal conductivity, and arithmetic operations are carried out to obtain the required thickness.

Roofing pie device

The attic roof has several functional layers. Varieties of roofs with their designs vary in degree of complexity.

Collectively, the layers of a mansard roof are called roofing cake(in another way, the scheme of insulation of the attic roof).

There are 2 types of attic: exploited and cold. The design of the roof is selected taking into account the choice of the design of the attic space.

In the case of planning a cold attic, it is only insulated overlap.

If an attic is planned, then you will need to do roof insulation.

Specifically, in this case, a roofing cake is created.

The pie is made up of:

• interior decoration,
• crates,
• counter-lattices,
• insulation,
• ventilation gap,
• roofing material.

Carefully!

Mansard roof insulation from the inside

Insulation of the attic roof from the inside occurs in the following sequence of actions:

1. It is recommended to start work from the lower edge of the roof. waterproofing film laid out with an overlap, the edges are fastened with adhesive tape.
2. Nailed to the rafters with nails counter rails. This is necessary to ensure ventilation clearance and high-quality adhesion of the film to the roofing material.
3. After that, without gaps fit insulation. Can be used mineral wool.
4. The free space is hemmed vapor barrier membrane.

The internal insulation of the attic has an undeniable advantage - the possibility of carrying out thermal insulation work regardless of the season. However, this approach has several important nuances, ignoring which can nullify all efforts and financial investments. It is easier to prevent undesirable consequences than to eliminate them, agree?

We will tell you how to act correctly in order to avoid mistakes. In the article, we described the features of the use of different heat-insulating materials, gave advice on choosing the best insulation, and also told how to avoid condensation in the roofing cake.

The detailed attic roof insulation technology will help you do all the work yourself, without resorting to the help of specialists.

There are a lot of heaters. However, not all of them are recommended for installation in a residential attic. The attic space is characterized by a fairly high humidity due to the rise of heated air from the lower floors of the cottage. Plus, one should not forget about environmental friendliness and material safety.

If the attic is non-residential, then due to natural ventilation through the vents, spotlights and dormer windows, the steam quickly disappears from it to the street. As a result, condensation does not form inside, and rafter system unaffected by excessive moisture.

In the attic, the situation is different. When it is warmed, it is necessary to create a barrier for the heat to escape to the outside and reduce air exchange with the street. As a result, all the steam remains inside the attic rooms.

Therefore, if the insulation is not reliably protected from moisture, then it will not last long. After all, any heat-insulating material, after getting wet, partially or completely loses its properties.

When choosing a heater, it is necessary to evaluate it:

• thermal conductivity;
• vapor permeability;
• volume weight;
• combustibility;
• soundproofing;
• environmental safety.

If you choose too heavy material, then the rafters will be overloaded. And the attic is often equipped from a non-residential attic. Rafter beams, in this case, are not designed for unnecessary additional loads. It's not worth trying your luck here.

In terms of thermal conductivity, most heaters on the market are similar. It is only necessary to choose the right thickness to achieve the required thermal insulation parameters.

It is not recommended to use sprayed polyurethane or foil polyethylene for insulation of the attic from the inside due to the high risk in case of making the slightest mistake when installing condensation directly on wooden rafters

From the entire range of thermal insulation materials, for internal insulation attics are most suitable - mineral wool (basalt) and. Moreover, the first option is more preferable than the second. Mineral wool is not combustible and has better sound insulation.

It is not worth taking glass wool because of its predisposition to crumbling. Small glass particles are very dangerous for humans. And ordinary foam is also not recommended for use in the attic. Compared to XPS, it is more flammable and environmentally harmful. In addition, it will have to be laid in a thicker layer.

Dew point problem

Ideally, the roof in the attic should be insulated from the outside at the stage of forming the roofing pie. However, often this is done the other way around from the inside, when the house is already covered with a roof. And here certain problems arise.

The correct and ideal roofing cake is several layers of different materials laid on top of the rafters tightly on top of each other without gaps. Such a sandwich guarantees that it will be located on its outer side. As a result, all the condensate formed outside will quickly evaporate into the atmosphere.

When insulating a mansard roof from the inside, it is extremely important to leave a gap between the insulation and the existing roof for ventilation and evaporation of condensate formed due to temperature changes.

Making insulation from the inside, after the installation of the roof, it is impossible to form the exemplary roofing pie described above. It will not work to press the insulation against the roof so that there are no voids between them at all.

But steam always moves towards cold air. And then, each of the formed cavities will begin to accumulate condensate and moisture in itself. And this is a direct path to damage to the thermal insulation material and wooden elements of the truss system.

With internal insulation of the attic, the dew point has to be shifted into the space between the laid roof and the insulation, leaving an additional gap of 5–10 cm for ventilation there. Only such a technology and such a cake will make it possible to avoid moistening the heat-insulating material.

In order to achieve proper air exchange in the under-roof space, it is recommended to install deflectors on the ridge and provide special holes in the eaves

To reduce the amount of water vapor in the insulation, its installation should be carried out using a vapor barrier film. A vapor barrier is mounted from the inside of the attic on top of the thermal insulation material.

The steam must first encounter this film and for the most part remain in the room. The less it gets into the insulation layer, the better.

Mansard roof insulation technology

To insulate the attic from the inside correctly, you need to create a cake of five layers, starting from the roof inward:

1. Ventilated air.
2. Wind-moisture insulation from a vapor-permeable membrane.
3. Vapor barrier.
4. Attic ceiling lining.

Vapor barrier is made of glassine, polyethylene or polypropylene film. Most the best option- special membranes, in which one side is rough and the other is smooth. With these materials, the risk of condensation directly on them is reduced to almost zero.

For a vapor barrier material, the vapor permeability should not exceed several tens of grams / m2 per day, for vapor-permeable membranes this figure is hundreds of grams / m2 per day and more - these films cannot be confused

For the organization of wind-moisture insulation, membranes are suitable:

• porous;
• two-layer film;
• three-layer superdiffusion;
• perforated.

Superdiffusion membranes will last the longest and are most effective. However, they are more expensive than other options.

At the same time, it is recommended to use perforated fabrics and films when insulating a residential attic only as a last resort. They are more designed for waterproofing cold sloped roofs in non-residential attics.

When installed with a heater in a warm room, these materials are often covered with frost in severe frosts, which reduces their vapor permeability to nothing.

Layer #1 - Ventilation underlays

Before you start insulating the attic from the inside with your own hands, you first need to treat the wood of the rafters with antiseptics and fire retardants. Only then will it be possible to start forming a heat-insulating cake.

It is best to mount the insulation from the inside of the attic on a special crate under the rafters, but most often this material, together with the upper vapor-permeable film, has to be laid between the rafters

If the insulation is knocked out from below the rafters, then the interior space of the attic will be reduced. The thickness of the heat-insulating cake often reaches 30–40 cm. If these centimeters are taken away from the top and sides, then the room may turn out to be too low and small.

At the same time, the installation option with a lining of the crate under the rafters and laying insulation on it eliminates the appearance of cold bridges. If mineral wool or EPPS is inserted between the beams, then they themselves and the gaps that form over time in the heat-insulating layer near them will draw heat from the attic.

In order for ventilation in the under-roof space to be in accordance with the requirements of SNiPs, deflectors or other air outlets should be provided on the ridge.

The steam, together with the air currents, must rise to the highest point of the roof and leave from there completely outside. Moreover, this should happen without obstacles and as quickly as possible.

Before stuffing the membrane onto the rafters, you must first correctly calculate the thickness of the insulation. If the heat-insulating layer turns out to be larger than the size of the rafters, then you will have to build them up with bars. The main insulation material should be inside this frame, and not protrude from it.

Layer #2 - Vapor Permeable Membrane

In the upper part of the roofing cake being formed, there should be a material with high vapor permeability from the insulation to the street and high waterproofing in the opposite direction. The task of this membrane is not to prevent the release of steam from the thermal insulation, while not letting water and moisture into it, which can drip from a leaky roof.

The best material for this vapor-permeable layer, which also performs the functions of wind and moisture protection, is superdiffusion membranes. They are not clogged with dust and ice formed from condensate in severe frosts.

Laying of such membranes is carried out in horizontal stripes overlapping 10–15 cm from the top row to the bottom row from the outside. As a result, a single canvas should be obtained, if drops of water fall on it through the roof from the street, they would flow down without falling into the insulation.

The joints of the rows of the membrane from the inside of the attic are glued with mounting tape. It should be taken under the same brand as the breathable film.

The composition of the adhesive and the material of the membrane from one manufacturer are selected so as not to harm each other and to hold securely in the glued state long years. If they are taken under different brands, then problems are possible.

Layer #3 - the main insulation

The thickness of the insulation is selected in accordance with SNiP 23-02-2003. For this, appropriate calculations are carried out, which take into account climatic conditions, the design features and roof structures, as well as the characteristics of the heat-insulating material and the inner lining of the attic.

It is not worth laying insulation with an excessively thick layer because of wasted money, and its too thin layer may not provide the required thermal protection

Manufacturers of thermal insulation give in the instructions for the material sold and post on their official websites detailed recommendations for determining this thickness. It is best to focus on these calculations.

Installation of insulation is carried out from the inside of the attic on top of the laid vapor-permeable membrane. If mineral wool is chosen, then it must be cut into pieces with dimensions 2-3 cm wider than the gaps between the rafters or the battens. The mineral wool should enter between them with a slight pressure and stay there due to the expansion.

EPS will have to be laid on top of the rafters, and not between them. The plates of this insulation are mounted end to end to each other. If you put them inside the rafters, like mineral wool, then through holes will appear in the heat-insulating layer.

Some craftsmen fill such gaps with mounting foam from a cylinder. However, this should not be done. This can damage the membrane due to chemical reaction spray foam components and vapor-permeable film material.

It is better to take 10–25 cm from the attic from above and from the sides to the crate with EPS, rather than get a layer of protection with through holes.

Layer #4 - vapor barrier film

On top of the insulation inside attic, a vapor barrier made of glassine or polypropylene or polyethylene film should be laid. The task of this layer is to keep water vapor out of the room into the insulation. It is laid in the same way as the very first vapor-permeable coating.

The joints of the vapor barrier should be given maximum attention - if you leave even the slightest gaps in them, then the steam will find these gaps and wet the heat-insulating material

In addition to the usual film, you can also take foil. The extra layer of foil will reflect most of the heat energy back into the attic, reducing heating costs. In this case, the installation of such a film is carried out with “aluminum” inside.

The vapor barrier is fastened with stapler staples or carnations with a wide hat. And in places where the film adjoins cables, pipes and structural elements of skylights, it should be additionally reinforced with a special one-sided tape with a heat-reflecting coating.

Layer #5 - ceiling sheathing

At the end of the attic insulation, the crate is stuffed under the cladding. It is made of bars with a thickness of 15-25 mm, so that a small ventilation gap remains above the vapor barrier.

Condensation due to improper vapor barrier and how to get rid of it:

At self-insulation attic from the inside, when the roof is already covered, it is important to choose the right thickness of the heat-insulating material. And more importantly, to correct installation without gaps in the vapor barrier and wind-moisture insulation.

If the protective films on both sides of the insulation have holes, it will get wet and stop protecting the house from the cold.

Do you have experience with attic insulation from the inside? Or want to ask questions on the topic? Please comment on the publication, share your knowledge and participate in discussions. The feedback block is located below.

Attics are most often equipped to provide additional living space. At the same time, it is not necessary to live in the attic - all work on the insulation of the upper room is carried out with the expectation of high-quality thermal insulation of the house in order to save energy. In addition, being on warm attic much more comfortable than in an uninsulated room.

Peculiarities

A residential attic is no longer a rare occurrence in the construction of a private house on two floors. More and more attention is paid to the functional qualities of each centimeter of the attic area. Therefore, it is important to carry out repairs or design a house in such a way that, if necessary, it is possible to use separate rooms, make them functional and more habitable. In order to feel warm and cozy under the roof at any time of the year, insulation work is carried out taking into account the characteristics of the attic. For example, special insulation matters when the roof is already covered.

There are certain standards for carrying out such work from the inside in the attic under the finished roof. It is worth considering that the attic as such is not equivalent attic space. The attic always has a characteristic slope, and the highest point of height is usually at a level of 2.5 m. For thermal insulation of such a room, you can use different materials. The most common are mineral wool and polystyrene. When carrying out work on the insulation of the attic, it is necessary to take into account what the room will be according to appearance, whether it will lose "extra" meters.

For high-quality insulation of the attic from the inside, if the roof is already covered, the right technology is important. So, when insulating walls and ceilings, one or another method of performing work is used. For example, to insulate the roof of the attic, a multilayer structure is used (for example, in 5 layers of a screed with foam glue).

All work on interior decoration attic for the purpose of insulation is carried out in five stages.

• The roof is insulated, the truss system is processed. Rafter from wooden beam can be seen under the roof of houses built using old construction technologies. Usually the roof of such houses is covered with tiles or slate. The materials have very high thermal conductivity. In such cases, it is said that the roof is simply protected from wind and external weather influences.

• Waterproofing quality is another important criterion for ensuring reliability roof structure generally. Waterproofing is simply necessary in the attic room. For this purpose, membrane films are usually used, which can pass steam, but do not pass moisture. In old houses, you can often see a simple roofing material with similar properties instead of a special film. The main feature of insulating materials is the optimal protection of the roof at the joints, preventing moisture from entering the heat-insulating material. Waterproofing coatings today are characterized by vapor conductivity.
• Warming materials. Of the modern means, those that are characterized by low thermal conductivity are used. Insulation parameters between 0.03-0.04 Vi/mk are comparable in quality and durability to reinforced foam. Mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex, penoizol) are also actively used to insulate the attic from the inside. In terms of efficiency, penoplex is rated higher than others, but it costs more. The selected materials must meet the main requirements - to provide heat transfer in winter, to protect against overheating in summer.

• Vapor barrier materials. Usually we are talking about a membrane film that will help maintain the original properties of the insulation. The material should not provoke the formation of condensate, which is a disaster for thermal insulation materials.
• decorative properties. The insulated attic must meet the requirements of the design of the room, comply with the general concept of the design of the house. Therefore, the facing is given so much attention. As decorative finishes drywall, OSB boards or other types of materials are often used that can be laid on the ceiling, on the walls, and on the floor of the attic.

Roof structures

The reliability of the house is determined, among other things, by the roof structure. The roof can be gable, broken, differ in slope. Due design features attic it is possible to get additional usable area. To do this, it is necessary to correctly manage the attic space of the house, especially for low-rise buildings. An important role in this case is given to the characteristics of the roof. Traditionally, pentagonal gable structures with a slope of various sizes were suitable for organizing an attic room. A convex fracture on such roofs was formed due to the difference in slopes.

Many schemes country houses correspond to the definitions of a "broken" roof. Today, the configuration of such mansard roofs has undergone many modifications. Now it is not only a pentagon and not only a gable roof. But their main technological features are saved.

Externally, the shape of the attic structure can be assessed by several parameters.

By slope and roof configuration:

• a triangular roof with a multi-level slope of the lower and upper parts in the form of a gable structure without kinks;
• pentagonal variations on the theme of the roof with slopes at convex corners (two joined parts clearly appear in the design).

Mansard roofs have a multi-tiered truss system. In the lower tier there is a usable area 2-2.5 m high (the scheme is being prepared in advance). The height parameters are indicated for ease of movement inside. The second tier is the shape of the top of the roof, which can have an arbitrary height. Although here you can experiment with the height to get the optimally comfortable roof shape. In this aspect, it is more advantageous to use a pentagonal attic, in which the corners seem to pass along an imaginary circle. It is worth considering that the attic can be equipped not only with gable roof. Using basic technologies, it is possible to arrange and insulate the attic in shed or hipped roof structures.

So, the main feature of the mansard roof should be recognized as two adjacent truss structures that are connected into a triangle or pentagon, thereby creating desired shape roofs of the house.

The main technologies for the device of a pitched roof, known today.

• Inclined. The lower tier of the attic is being built, then the upper part is being equipped.
• Hanging. Depending on the technical features of the roof structure, the upper part is equipped. With a schematic section of the attic roof, you can see that at the bottom it looks like a trapezoid, and at the top it looks like a triangle.

If nothing needs to be done with the shape of the attic, then you can proceed directly to work on warming the room from the inside by choosing a suitable high-quality material.

Types of heaters

When choosing the best insulating material for the attic, one should take into account the main characteristics of the material, its valuable properties, the pros and cons for a particular structure.

As the main criteria for the selection of insulation, it is worth highlighting the following:

• good thermal insulation (for example, foil material, insulation with mineral wool, polystyrene foam, basalt material);
• economical use (rational insulation);

• strength and durability;
• water-repellent properties;
• soundproofing;
• ease of installation.

It is important to remember that the main value of the material will be its ability to retain heat, that is, the thermal conductivity of heat-insulating materials.

best qualities possesses the insulation, in which the coefficient of thermal conductivity will be lower. For example, less than 0.04 W/ms. This is taking into account the thickness of the material and climatic conditions. There is still the question of the possibility of using the same heat-insulating material for wall and floor cladding. The more universal qualities of the material will just allow you to work on any surface (walls, floors, ceiling). Typically, walls, gables and floors are “wrapped” with such material. This allows you to achieve insulation to the same extent around the entire perimeter of the room.

When choosing heaters, one should not forget about sound absorbing properties material. To understand this issue, it is worth imagining the noise on a steel roof even from a little rain, especially if we are talking about a residential attic. Tranquility and comfort are the most important criteria for home improvement. Also, when choosing a heater, it is necessary to check load-bearing structure what materials it is made of (metal, wood, reinforced concrete). Combustible materials (rafters) will not allow the use of some types of insulation. But, basically, safe and environmentally friendly facing materials are used today. Among them there are both traditional (glass wool) and more technologically advanced (eco wool, foil plate). Let's consider some of them.

Plates and mats

For internal insulation of the attic in the presence of a roof, fireproof and moisture-repellent materials such as mineral wool, glass wool, ecowool, penofol, polystyrene, sawdust slab cake, extruded polystyrene foam are used. Insulating material in the form of plates and mats is suitable for single or multi-pitched roofs. The crate is done in a similar way. Plates are convenient for transportation and installation.

Rolled

It is more convenient for many to use materials in rolls. You can easily cut a piece to the desired length. Roll insulation from traditional materials is suitable for roofs in which the rafters are at a standard distance from each other. If necessary, the remaining free space can be filled with material.

sprayed

The so-called sprayed materials for lining the attic do not leave joints and areas for the penetration of cold. For example, you can use the method of spraying polyurethane foam. This insulation does not require pre-training attic. The material is simply poured to a certain thickness (usually the thickness of the rafters). These materials are distinguished by the fact that they are resistant to the development of fungus and mold. Spraying is convenient to carry out both on the walls and on the ceiling.

How to choose?

The quality and durability of the material depends on the manufacturer, operating conditions and the characteristics of the material. The insulation should be as resistant to mechanical stress as possible, so you should always choose the one that is better for specific indicators. The construction market today is replete with modern heaters different brands, differing in weight, color, installation features.

A small mass of insulation allows you to use it between the rafters of the attic structure. With a stronger frame, it is possible to use heavier material (plates). They are mounted on a crate or on a truss structure. Depending on the frequent load on the roof (snow), you can decide on a soft or hard insulation. Too soft will have to be repaired. Too hard can lose in thermal insulation properties, for example, when thermally insulating the ceiling. And, of course, the insulating material for the attic should not crack, deform or change over time. It is not always possible to immediately decide on the choice of material for insulating the attic from the inside, even when it is not necessary to cover the roof.

All thermal insulation materials have their advantages and disadvantages. Having unique characteristics, such materials are evaluated on universal grounds.

• Even a budget option for insulation (for example, polystyrene foam) should keep the heat in the house. Therefore, it is necessary to use a material with a thickness of at least 10 cm. Plates from the same foam are practically weightless, no special installation is required, they are suitable for any type of attic space. However, Styrofoam is flammable. Therefore, when choosing a heater, one should not always give preference to cheap analogues.
• Extruded polystyrene foam can be used as insulation both inside and outside the premises. Do not confuse it with foam, the latter has a different structure. Expanded polystyrene does not react to chemical reagents, has a low thermal conductivity, does not absorb moisture. Slabs of material can have different densities, but can be highly deformed.

• Penofol is used as more modern facility as a heater, but also as a more expensive one. Insulation in the form of a rolled material can easily replace mineral wool. It is not affected by moisture. It is believed that this material has properties that can protect against radioactive waves.
• Spraying with liquid polyurethane foam will achieve the desired resistance to drafts. Or rather, they will not be, since joints and gaps on any surface can be closed with a heater. When using the material, there is no need for additional laying of heat-insulating material.

• Ecowool for the attic is used relatively recently. This material consists of 80 percent cellulose. The rest is antiseptic additives. When using ecowool, shrinkage of the material during operation is taken into account. modern material resistant to fire, does not get wet, does not collect bacteria.
• Almost all attic structures of country houses are covered with mineral wool. This material is very popular due to the qualities of heat and sound insulation. It can be laid on the crate or on the frame. Mineral wool is not subject to decay, but it must be remembered that the material is able to absorb moisture and thereby increase in size. And this gives additional weight to the structure.

Thickness calculation

A material with universal parameters - modern insulation, allows you to create the most comfortable conditions and the right microclimate in the upper part of the house, protecting it from heat loss. Installation of insulation depends on its specifications. Consumption is determined by its thickness. Eat different variants installation, since almost everything is used in the construction business today - from mineral wool to polystyrene. It is possible to calculate the required thickness of the insulating material according to a certain scheme and based on the main parameters of SNiP. When calculating the thickness, the craftsmen are guided by regulatory requirements. The characteristics of both the heat insulator itself and the attic structure are taken into account.

Calculation rules.

• When choosing a heater for an attic room, the operational density of the material is taken into account. The heat insulator is selected in such a way as to ensure the overall thermal conductivity of the wall materials.

• The indicator of the load on the structure during the installation of the insulation must be taken into account. Thermal insulation materials differ in weight - it is larger with a higher density of the insulator. So, if the structure is stone or made of brick, this will allow the use of any material for cladding. For wooden frame a lower density insulation is suitable.
• Dew point determination. According to this parameter, when calculating the choice of a heat insulator, the quality of the wall decoration both inside and outside is taken into account. The presence of dense plaster, for example, allows you to "save" on insulation. Insulation that is incorrectly selected in thickness will lead to the accumulation of condensate, which will negatively affect performance characteristics the whole structure.

• P is an indicator of the thickness of the material;
• K is the value of the thermal conductivity coefficient.