Ways to make the balcony warm. How to make a loggia warm How to choose heating devices for an insulated balcony or loggia

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Warm balcony in a city apartment: 14 topical issues

A warm balcony allows you to partly solve the problem of lack of space in a cramped apartment. He can become cozy office, a smoking room, a clothes dryer, a meeting place for friends over a glass .... ahem, tea and even a small playroom for the kids. In my article I will try to answer a number of frequently asked questions about the insulation and heating of the balcony.

A little effort - and the balcony will turn into a full-fledged living area.

So, how to make a balcony residential and warm?

fencing

What fences are optimal for creating a warm balcony?

Reinforced concrete panel;
brick fence;
Fencing made of foam blocks or aerated concrete.

In a temperate climate, foam blocks or aerated concrete with a density of D600 should be preferred. The porous structure of the material will allow you to do without additional insulation. If winter temperatures in your area fall below -15 - -20C, you still have to insulate the fence.

Is the warm glazing of balconies installed on a metal fence?

Yes. To do this, a wooden frame is assembled on it, to which frames and outer skin-, professional sheet, etc. The cross section of the frame is determined by the requirements for insulation; a beam of 100x50 mm is usually used, which allows you to lay a 10-centimeter-thick slab insulation. The beam is attracted to the floor by anchors, and to the railing of the fence - by bolts with wide caps through pre-drilled holes.

Frame elements must be treated with an antiseptic, which will protect the tree from decay and increase its fire resistance. Between the lower beam and the concrete slab, waterproofing is needed: it will prevent the absorption of moisture into the tree in wet and rainy weather. This role can be played by a couple of layers of roofing material or bituminous mastic.

Another option is complete dismantling fencing and installation of panoramic glazing. There are, however, a couple of problems here:

Transparent glass from top to bottom means that visiting the negligee balcony is cancelled. In it you will be in full view of all passers-by and residents of neighboring houses;
On sunny summer days, a balcony with panoramic windows will turn into a greenhouse. I state this on the basis of my own experience in operating an attic with with total area glazing 26 square meters. The 12,000 BTU air conditioner copes with the cooling of the attic with noticeable difficulty.

Both problems are solved by installing an impost in the metal-plastic frame and replacing the lower part of the double-glazed window with an insert made of expanded polystyrene laminated with plastic.

What should be the height of the fence?

The answer is easy to find in the existing normative documents. In the general case, it is equal to 100 centimeters with a building height of up to 10 floors and 110 centimeters in houses with a higher number of storeys. If the balcony will be visited by children, the height of the fence should be 120 cm.

Warming and finishing

fencing

What and how to insulate the fence?

With his inside(in the case of a metal fence - right around it) a wooden frame is assembled, which is filled with glued mineral wool slabs. It is better not to use polystyrene: when heated, it releases harmful styrene, and heating in the summer heat will be inevitable.

Does the insulation need some kind of protection from moisture and wind??

Necessarily. From the inside, the mineral wool is protected by a vapor barrier film. A windproof membrane from the outside is needed only in the case of a metal fence sewn up with a wind-permeable material (siding or corrugated board).

If thin penofol (foil insulation based on foamed polyethylene) is used instead of a vapor barrier film, heat loss through the fence due to infrared radiation will be noticeably reduced. The foam foil layer should be directed towards the medium with more high temperature(in our case - towards the balcony).

How to finish the fence from the inside?

I highly recommend using…laminate flooring. It is much more durable and resistant to moisture compared to wall panels from MDF. It is better not to fasten laminate boards with self-tapping screws into a spike, but to glue them to the frame with liquid nails or silicone sealant.

For cutting laminate, it is very convenient to use a grinder with a diamond wheel. The cut is perfectly even and with minimal deviations from the markup. Do not try to use an abrasive instead of a diamond wheel: the edges of the cut will burn.

Ceiling

How a balcony or loggia is insulated from above ?

In this case, it is better to use extruded polystyrene foam 30 - 40 mm thick, laid in a wooden crate from a bar of appropriate thickness. Expanded polystyrene, unlike cheaper polystyrene, tolerates heat without releasing styrene. It surpasses mineral wool in the quality of insulation with a small thickness.

It is desirable to fix the sheets on the surface of the ceiling. This is easy to do by spotting them with liquid nails, acrylic putty or silicone sealant. In this case, vapor barrier is not required, but it is advisable to fill the wide gaps between the polystyrene foam and the frame with mounting foam.

It would be a good idea to use penofol here too, placing it under the crate bars before attaching them to the ceiling.

How to hem a balcony ceiling?

PVC wall panels. Cheap (about 200 rubles per square meter) and cheerful. The only downside plastic panels- their low strength - is leveled by the location on the ceiling, where no one will touch them.

Panels can be fastened with a furniture stapler or self-tapping screws into a spike, or with kleimers.

Floor

How is the thermal insulation of the balcony from below, from the side of the floor?

I recommend doing it like this:

The floor is covered with our old acquaintances - penofol. It will reduce heat loss due to radiation and perform the function of waterproofing between wood and concrete. There are small overlaps on the walls along the edges;
Through it, longitudinal (laid along the length of the balcony) logs 30-40 mm thick are attached to the floor. The extreme logs should adjoin the wall and the fence;
Extruded polystyrene foam is placed in the space between the lags;

Two-layer floor insulation: foam is laid on the bottom, polystyrene foam is on top.

The instruction for choosing this particular insulation is due to the fact that it remains effective with a small thickness. Thick floor and ceiling insulation will make the room uncomfortably low.

A rough flooring is laid along the logs - a tongue-and-groove board, OSB or plywood with a thickness of 15 mm or more.

What to lay on the floor as a finishing coating?

In my opinion - linoleum. If the balcony is not heated for some time, condensation or frost will inevitably form on the windows. As it melts, the water will flow down. For laminate, parquet or wood flooring, moisture will create serious problems in the form of swollen seams and deformation; with linoleum it is enough to wipe puddles.

Glazing

What should be the warm glazing of the loggia - with wooden frames, with aluminum or metal-plastic ?

Aluminum is a metal with high thermal conductivity. The frame will become a cold bridge between the street and the balcony. It will contribute to heat loss and collect condensate.

We brush aside.

Modern frames made of pressed wood are not much inferior to metal-plastic ones in terms of strength, geometry stability and resistance to moisture. However, with the same functionality, they are noticeably more expensive. At the same time, nothing prevents you from ordering metal plastic windows under a tree, with a very reliable imitation of its texture.

The conclusions, I think, are obvious.

Our choice is plastic windows.

What should be the double-glazed window?

It all depends on the climate zone. Perhaps I will simply refer the reader to someone else's practical experience in operating windows:

In the Khabarovsk Territory, where I lived a few years ago (the average temperature in January is about -25 C, at peak frosts reach -45 degrees), the most popular option is a two-chamber (triple) double-glazed window made of ordinary glass 4 mm thick;

In Sevastopol (the average January temperature is +3, frosts of -15 are extremely rare and last no more than a week a year), single-chamber (double) double-glazed windows with energy-saving glasses are massively installed. The IR-reflecting coating on one of the panes of the double-glazed unit helps to reduce heat loss in winter and heating of the room in summer.

When buying glazing, you can save up to a third of its cost by refusing to install it. However, installing windows with your own hands will completely void your warranty.

Do you need separate balcony ventilation? Or is it enough to ventilate it by opening the windows as needed ?

In my opinion, it would be a good idea to install an adjustable intake valve in one of the frames. It allows you to more precisely regulate the inflow compared to the window microventilation system (adjusting the position of the sash in the transom mode). The influx of fresh air will save you, among other things, from condensation on the windows.

If the balcony will be supplied with a constant source of heat, the supply valve must be located directly above it. A thermal curtain will eliminate the appearance of cold drafts.

Heating

How and how to heat a balcony?

First and foremost: all options for a warm balcony with a water-heated floor are swept aside immediately and for good. Believe my experience: defrosting a warm floor on a balcony is easier than a lung, and restoring it is still hemorrhoids.

In addition: a water-heated floor is laid in an insulated screed. It will raise the floor at least 10 - 12 cm and create a serious load on the floor slab.

The most obvious solution is to put a radiator on the balcony, connected to the central heating system in parallel with the battery in the room. Even 20 years ago, housing organizations looked at such changes in the configuration of the heating system through their fingers, but now there is a very real chance of receiving an administrative penalty for unauthorized connection and an order to restore the original wiring configuration at their own expense.

What's in the dry matter?

All kinds of oil and electric convectors. They can be floor standing or permanently mounted on the wall. The obvious drawback of the solution is high operating costs: with an average power consumption of 1 kW, heating a balcony will cost about 2,500 rubles per month at current rates;

Reduce costs will allow electric underfloor heating. The easiest way to install film heaters: they do not require pouring the screed and can be laid under any finish coating (including linoleum). Savings are achieved through a more rational distribution of temperatures: the air is most heated not under the ceiling, but where heat is needed - right above the floor;

In the photo - electric film heating element. It can be laid under linoleum, laminate or tile.

For regions with warm winters, installing an air conditioner will be a profitable solution. It will solve both the problem of cooling the balcony and the room adjacent to it in the hot summer, and heating them in the winter. Modern inverter split systems are capable of delivering up to 5 kW of heat per kilowatt of electrical power consumed and work for heating at outdoor temperatures down to -25C;
Finally, in gasified houses, the installation of a gas convector is most beneficial. The cost of a device with a power of 2 kW is about 6 thousand rubles. Combustion products are discharged through a coaxial (double) pipe through the balcony railing directly to the street; fresh air is also taken from there for the operation of the burner.

Conclusion

I hope that I was able to answer all the questions of the dear reader. Learn more about how it can be equipped warm balcony, the video in this article will help you. I look forward to your comments and additions. Good luck, comrades!

Zealous owners prefer not to clutter up the balcony with things that have served their time, but to use its area with maximum benefit. A rational solution for apartments with a rather limited space is the transformation of a balcony or loggia into a living space. Here you can equip a rest room, an office for work, even a small library or a mini-gym. But first, of course, you need to make the balcony warm.

The sequence of work on the insulation of the balcony

The first step is work on the glazing of the balcony. The question arises: window systems from what materials save heat better, the loss of which, by the way, through windows, can reach 40%?

In this case, it is most expedient to use PVC (polyvinyl chloride) windows, consisting of multi-chamber profiles with reinforcing metal inserts, which perfectly retain heat, are unpretentious in maintenance and are durable. In addition, plastic windows have an aesthetic appearance. Aluminum and wooden frames are unlikely to provide decent thermal insulation.

To save time, money and obtain a quality result, it is important to adhere to a certain sequence of work.

High-quality glazing is the first step in arranging a warm balcony. It begins with the dismantling of old frames and cleaning the openings. The choice of double-glazed windows depends on the design of the balcony and the preferences of the owner. Solid windows are distinguished by high rates of noise and heat insulation.
The first stage of warming will be work with the floor. The old coating is dismantled and the floor is cleaned of construction debris. Make a cement-sand screed.
Styrofoam sheets are most suitable for floor insulation. A material that has strength and sufficient rigidity will do the job perfectly. Further actions depend on whether the floor will be equipped with heating or not.
It is very desirable to insulate the ceiling, especially if it is the last floor. More often, penofol is used for this purpose - a rolled foil insulation.
Next, proceed to the insulation of the wall under the windows. It is worth noting that it will not work to achieve a comfortable temperature on the balcony in winter if the parapet, ceiling and floor are not insulated. You can lay out the parapet with bricks, or make a crate and insulate it with mineral wool or polystyrene foam, having previously laid a waterproofing film.
Then the side walls are insulated. After laying the heat-insulating material, all cracks must be carefully filled with mounting foam.
Having finished the insulation work, proceed to the decoration. There are so many facing materials different in texture, color, performance that you can choose the most suitable option decorating a balcony is quite easy.

Now about all the stages in more detail, missing the glazing, which is best left to professionals.

Balcony insulation materials

The most important requirement for heaters that are used on balconies is the low weight of materials in order to prevent excessive load on the floors. In addition, the insulation must have low thermal conductivity. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer largely depends on this indicator. An equally important point is the sealing of all seams, joints and cracks that have arisen in the process of glazing the balcony. They must be filled with mounting foam or other sealant. This will serve as protection against the penetration of moisture through the gaps and generally improve the thermal insulation of the balcony. And if you do not take care of waterproofing, then soon condensation will begin to form on the balcony, which is fraught with the appearance of mold and fungus.

The material for insulation of the ceiling, floor, sides and facade must be of high quality. The most economical option is foam-based insulation. They are light weight and relatively cheap. There are also disadvantages - fragility and fragility. good results can be achieved using mineral wool for thermal insulation.

Folgoizolon perfectly copes with the task - a hydro-vapor barrier material, which is a porous polyethylene with a lavsan or metallized polypropylene film. It does not accumulate moisture, prevents condensation, retains heat, reflecting it into the room. Folgoizolon 4 mm thick is able to keep heat in the same way as a layer of mineral wool of 80 mm or a wall of 1.5 bricks.

What needs to be done before warming

Before insulating the balcony, it is necessary to restore all weak and damaged sections of the structure. Particular attention should be paid to places where reinforcement protrudes to the surface. Identified cracks and destroyed areas are repaired using a cement mortar. If this is neglected, then the corrosion processes developing under the layer of thermal insulation will simply destroy the base of the balcony.

All surfaces, i.e. ceiling, walls, floor, which are planned to be insulated, must be treated with an antiseptic. This will serve as a barrier to mold, often developing in a warm and humid environment.

We warm the floor

Waterproofing is laid on the leveled concrete base. That it must be of high quality is beyond doubt. After all, moisture can penetrate from below. Materials such as waterproofing, isospan, etc. are suitable as waterproofing.
Wooden logs are laid on top of it (beam 60x100 mm).
A heater is placed between the lags. Usually it's foam. It is possible to lay a thinner material, which is laid in several layers, up to the height of the bars. Thermal insulation should lie very tightly. It is advisable to avoid gaps between sheets. If gaps are nevertheless formed, apply mounting foam.
A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the insulation, then a subfloor is laid.
You can lay the floor covering only after completing all the work on the thermal insulation of the ceiling and walls. If the sequence of work is violated, there is a high probability of damage to it.

Ceiling insulation

Ceiling insulation can be carried out using fairly common and practical materials: foam, polystyrene, mineral wool, foiled polyethylene foam (penofol). Styrofoam is attached to the ceiling with special glue (this can be glue for ceramic tiles), and is fixed with fungi-dowels at five points - in the corners and in the center. When using penoplex, which retains heat better, you can work with thinner panels - from 20 mm. Styrofoam in many technical specifications inferior to foam. But the latter has a serious disadvantage - high cost.

If penofol (rolled foil material) is chosen as a heater, then it should be glued to the ceiling surface treated with an antiseptic and cleaned. For this purpose, PVA wood glue is sometimes used. You can prevent the formation of bubbles if you use a roller and roll the material. Penofol is also glued to the mounting foam. Such a heater is well suited for hard lining: drywall, MDF, PVC panels, slatted ceiling, lining.

In the case of insulation with mineral wool, it can be tightly laid in the ceiling sinus, on the constructed suspension frame. When working with any kind of this insulation, it is recommended to use protective equipment: glasses, closed clothing, gloves, it is advisable to wear a respirator. Starting the process of thermal insulation of the ceiling, it is important to make sure that there are no places for moisture penetration.

Wall insulation

The thermal insulation of the walls begins with the installation of the crate, which can be made using a wooden beam (40x40 or 50x50 mm). But, if the insulation has a greater thickness, then it should be mounted on support blocks, moving the crate away from the wall to the required distance in this way.

First install the vertical parts (racks). They are placed in the corners of the balcony and on the walls. The optimal distance between adjacent bars is about 50 cm. Fastening to the wall is carried out using dowels. Then the racks are connected by crossbars. Often the crate is made using next rule: horizontal bars are fixed at the level of the shoulder, belt and knee. This method helps to avoid punching the cladding. The step is more than 50 cm, but the efficiency of this design is higher.

Insulation (usually polystyrene) is closely placed in the formed cells. Fix it to the wall using foam glue or styrofoam glue. A vapor barrier is laid on top - a membrane or polyethylene. Do not neglect the vapor barrier, trying to save money. Otherwise, condensation cannot be avoided and, as a result, wetting of the insulation. Which, in turn, significantly reduces the effectiveness of thermal insulation.

Next, the balcony is finished with selected materials. But before you start it, you should resolve all issues with electrical wiring in order to arrange lighting and sockets. As a floor finish, almost all materials that are available in the rest of the apartment can be used. For wall cladding, plastic or wooden lining, MDF, drywall are most often used.

Heating methods

In our climatic conditions you can’t do without heating the balcony in winter, but since the central heating outlet to this room is not provided for and is prohibited by building codes, you should think about other options. At least two of them. One is the arrangement of the floor with a heating system, which is mounted under the floor covering. This method of heating, compared to radiators, is the most profitable option, in which less electricity is consumed and heat is distributed more evenly.

To the surface concrete base fix the electrical elements of the heating system. Upon completion of installation, it is required to cover with a cement-sand screed according to the laid electrical element. Then the finishing work is done.

An alternative heating method can be, for example, an electric fireplace or other heating devices (radiator, heater, air conditioner). In conditions of small dimensions of this room, it is better to use oil coolers. The power of the device should be approximately 1.5-2 kW. You should be prepared for the fact that the figures in electricity bills will increase significantly.

The balcony can be heated using infrared heaters ceiling type, which is very convenient and practical. They are fixed on the ceiling, therefore, they do not occupy an already small area. The principle of operation of such heaters is curious. They heat the surfaces of the floor, walls, furniture and objects on the balcony themselves with heat rays. Further, already heated surfaces begin to return the received heat to the surrounding space. As a result, a few minutes are enough to warm the air in the room to a comfortable room temperature.

And, perhaps, the most important thing that needs to be done even before the start of all work on warming and turning the balcony into a living space. It is necessary to obtain a special permit, so to speak, to legalize the conduct of such work. It is especially important to do this if there is an intention to combine a room with a balcony. Compliance with the formalities will allow you to avoid many problems in the future.

To create a cozy and warm balcony, you need to carry out quite large-scale work. But it's still worth doing - after all, the advantages are obvious. The living space increases, and the apartment acquires reliable insulation from noise, drafts and dust. The source of significant heat loss disappears when through balcony door heat leaves the apartment. With a glazed and insulated balcony, the very likelihood of this disappears.

Balcony heating, insulated by us, you need a minimum, but we do it in without fail. Like any warm room in our climate zone, a warm balcony also needs to be heated. Not in all cases and definitely not all the time, but heating on the balcony must be provided. The whole question is how to heat and how much will it cost per month?

Let's say right away: on our balconies - this is always a possible minimum, for others - it's how lucky. It can be cold with central heating batteries in 20 sections. Such balconies also came to us for alteration more than once. It is clear that everything can be heated - even a greenhouse in the cold, the whole question is: how much will it cost? We can only say about our balconies: either, practically, nothing, or approximately how it costs you washing machine. And only in a couple of frosty months. Here is such a small question price. A few hundred rubles a year is not the price for one more room in an apartment.

We make the warmest balconies, which do not even require additional heating in all cases. For this:

we install high-quality plastic ones with a maximum two-chamber double-glazed window (3 glasses give 2 cameras!) And with good fittings so as not to blow from the windows
carefully and in several stages we carry out sealing of the entire balcony or loggia in order to completely eliminate drafts
we make thorough insulation of ALL surfaces on the balcony, including inner wall on own unique technology that cannot be found on the Internet
we make the walls completely airtight to prevent the ingress of warm, moist air from the apartment under the cladding. In this case, condensation inside the wall cannot form and the walls always remain dry. This means there will be no mold or mildew.
we mount a well-insulated and durable floor (thickness 120 mm), on which we received patent
we replace part of the glazing with insulated walls, if the loggia is elongated, in order to reduce heat loss through the window
we actively apply our own developments, which can be acquired only after years of work in one direction. only the site to confirm this.

That's why our balconies have room temperature in winter.

Do I need heating on a warm balcony?

A very important moment in our work. Believe that in winter you will also be very worried about this issue if you make yourself a warm balcony. It is worth reading our opinion on this matter, so as not to be disappointed later. Moreover, it will not be justified.

A warm balcony, like any other room in the apartment, is not a self-heating system! A heat source is a must. Heat loss through the window is inevitable. Although we have the maximum heat-saving capacity, a window is a window.

Heat from the room and there is heating

The main source of heat for our warm balcony is warm air from the apartment. You just need to keep the door to the balcony ajar. And do not close it for a long time, if you do not turn on the warm floor! Otherwise, the balcony will inevitably cool down in a few hours.

Underfloor heating rarely turns on: in cold weather, when there is no apartment heating or balcony glazing is too large. But, we strongly recommend to mount it. The costs are small for it, but then it will be a full-fledged room with independent heating. When needed, they turned it on. Let it be better.

There is enough heat from the room so that flowers grow quietly on our balcony without additional heating all winter or there is a microwave with a refrigerator, for example. Those. the temperature will be only a few degrees lower than in the room. This is due to poor air mixing without thermal device under the window and the large size of this very window.

Of course, you can do without heating the balcony at all, provided that you do not need it to be exactly the same temperature as in the room. Just for flowers, for example. They are 15 - 18 degrees in winter - the most comfortable conditions. What if you are planning to go there? workplace for yourself, then you need to make heating. Then the air on the balcony will mix and heat will be drawn from the room. If there is no heating, then this will be difficult.

If balcony heating is not done

As a temporary solution: even the smallest and cheapest floor fan heater can seriously improve air mixing on the balcony. You just have to put it on rotation mode without heating. So it will not almost consume electricity. Install it in doorway balcony or next to it, so as not to interfere. It can be installed both in the direction of the balcony and in the direction of the room. Try both options. He will push the air out of the balcony so that the heat from the apartment comes there more intensively. But, this is a temporary solution. A warm floor or a stationary convector is still more correct.

How much does balcony heating cost?

If you want comfort and additional space - heat the balcony, like other rooms in the apartment. Substantial money it won't be required. Especially if your apartment is "hot", with excess heat. In this case, you may not notice the difference in electricity bills.

Do not forget that in the apartment we are heated not only by radiators under the window, but by walls with neighbors. The walls are even bigger. Turning off the radiator, you still will not freeze - the neighbors will continue to heat you through the concrete 15 cm! The temperature will drop, but not much.

But the warm balcony is completely devoid of this heat source. And the losses through the window are continuous. Moreover, the larger the glass area, the greater the loss. Therefore, we insist on reducing it to optimal sizes. "Aquarium" is difficult to heat for minimal money.

Conclusion:

make underfloor heating on the balcony
replace part of the double-glazed windows on the outer window
put a supply valve, for example in the kitchen

Here is an example of how it looks: glazing and insulation of two balconies in Miass by our company. Outside, this is a window structure, and from the inside, we close it with a wall with insulation so that it is quiet, warm and beautiful. Behind these walls you will put a cabinet or a computer monitor.

Pictures are enlarged.

Balcony heating options

Legal and not so

In fact, the only legal way to heat your warm balcony is with electricity. Central heating batteries, unfortunately, new in 2005 Housing Code it is forbidden to go out to the balcony. So it's not really an option. It is rather from the past, when there were no technologies or materials for high-quality insulation of the balcony. So they tried to block the gigantic heat loss on such a balcony at the expense of their neighbors.

But, on a well-insulated balcony, when it is made by an experienced and responsible company, electricity also does an excellent job of heating the balcony. And relatively inexpensive for the cold season is obtained. Here are the legal options for heating the balcony and they are listed in order of popularity:

infrared
electrical in concrete screed

Balcony heating options: pros and cons

Infrared film floor

high efficiency. Its operation during heating season will not be sensitive to the family budget. It will not work for free, of course, but not all the time there is a need for it. It turns on only when needed.
quick installation. It's easy to do it yourself. Taking into account the installation time of the plywood floor base itself, it takes 3 - 4 hours to lay the heating film. At least in our company. And that's it - the floor is already warm.
quickly warms up due to the low thermal inertia of the floor covering. After a few minutes the floor is already warm
inexpensive
you can use almost any modern floor covering: linoleum, carpet, laminate, etc. Everything that does not require gluing to the surface
the floor can be used immediately after installation
Sturdy enough under flooring. Namely, the quality of linoleum or laminate determines how much and how such a floor will serve you. The film itself has nothing to do with it. By the way, it is quite thick, two-layer - about 0.5 mm. So stories about ladies' heels are myths. So don't spoil it. Do not do this with furniture legs either.

cannot be used under tiles
pillows and other bulky objects that interfere with the removal of heat from the surface should not be laid on the floor
you should not make such a floor under furniture with a blank apron at the bottom. Nothing will happen to the floor, there will be a slight overheating, but just why heat the cabinet from below?

Electric convectors

As an option for heating the balcony, it’s also not bad, if at one time you saved on a warm film floor or didn’t think that you would equip yourself with an office there.

Overall, fast installation. Plugged it in and it's done. To wall variant feet for floor installation are also included, usually
also high efficiency.
easy temperature adjustment

takes up space, albeit a little
still "dries" the air, albeit not too much
the floor on the balcony remains cool for a long time. It is necessary to turn on the convector quite often so that the floor is also warm

Electric heating wire in concrete screed (mats)

Good for bathrooms, corridors and other places that are constantly heated. And, of course, you need to have a month in reserve in order to mount it correctly.

you can lay tiles and other coatings that require gluing to the base. The film floor eliminates this option. True, some time ago there was an infrared film under a tile with holes, but now it is not to be found. Apparently, it has not become popular for a similar floor with tiles. With a heating cable, gluing is easier and more reliable.

there is a minus and a very big one. It takes about 20 days at room temperature to turn on the concrete floor with the heating cable for the first time. The technology demands it. Otherwise, the screed will simply burst. This is not 3 - 4 hours in the case of a film floor.
large thermal inertia. It takes a long time to warm up all the concrete in the screed. You can't run barefoot right away. True, this is a plus - it cools longer.

Conclusion: we have given all the arguments for and against each option. But, as is clear from the abundance of text around the film floor, we have made our choice. All balconies, which will later be offices and recreation areas, we equip with a warm film floor. And we advise you. Durable, economical, inexpensive.

Infrared film floor

The heating of balconies insulated by us is successfully handled by an electric heated film floor. We carefully insulate the balcony, so other heat sources are no longer needed. No convectors, no fan heaters. One floor is enough in the cold.

And it heats where it is most needed. If the feet don't get cold, the rest of the person doesn't get cold either)

The cost of underfloor heating on the balcony

The cost of a set of underfloor heating for a medium-sized loggia, for example, in a house of the 97th series, is 4500 rubles. The kit includes: thermostat, heating film and reflective thermal insulation.

The power consumed by the film floor

About 200 watts per square meter. The operation of the floor is controlled by a thermostat that turns off the heating film when the set room temperature is reached. In fact, the floor consumes energy no more than half the time. Of course, the power consumption is highly dependent on the area of the window on the parapet. The larger it is, the greater the cost of heating the room. Therefore, we strongly advise customers to reduce its glazing area to reasonable limits. Why leave glass where there will be a closet, for example?

The device of a warm floor on a warm balcony

We produce insulated floors on balconies of our own design coated with thick plywood. The thickness of the "pie" of the floor is at least 120 mm. It is durable, warm and will never creak. Reflective thermal insulation made of 3 mm thick polyethylene foam is laid on top of the plywood. Above it is the infrared film itself of the area that is needed. Everything - after that you can lay the floor covering. The work of the floor is controlled by a thermostat, which we install in a convenient place. As a rule, this is next to the light switch on the balcony.

In order not to lay a temporary coating during the finishing putty and wallpapering, we completely assemble the electrical part, check it, but we turn the floor itself into a small roll again. During finishing it does not interfere, and before laying the flooring, you just need to cut the adhesive tape and align the film.

And of course, do not forget to put a "reflector" under it with the shiny side up. Which is also left by us in a roll with a margin of area. This job takes a few minutes. But, of course, we can roll out everything at once if the customer has a temporary coverage, for example, old linoleum from the balcony.

Durability and safety

Most of the heating film market in Russia belongs to Korean manufacturers. It does not burn and emits an odor when heated, mechanically strong. The manufacturer guarantees trouble-free operation for 25 years. In fact, much longer. Even if the warm floor is covered with pillows, the most that can happen is the destruction of the carbon bridges inside the film itself. As a result, only a small part of the floor will stop heating, the rest of the floor will function normally. However, such experiments should not be carried out.

To prevent overheating of the floor, do not put bulky items on the floor, such as a large bag or mattress. Also, you can not mount the floor under furniture with a blank apron at the bottom instead of legs. On legs or with a narrow support - please. Anywhere and any furniture.

Sad stories about women's shoes with heels that are told on the Internet are just myths. So the floor through the floor covering is not damaged. Even nails through it do not incapacitate. Unless the tester is pulled by current. And that's not much.

Warm Balcony, 2016

Why is loggia insulation considered such an interesting issue for many apartment owners today? The fact is that this allows you to create a separate, albeit small, room from an almost useless site that can be used as your office or workshop. Today, you can find quite a lot of ways to insulate a loggia on your own. Some people just use a heater, but this is not entirely legal, as it is prohibited by SNiP. So, if the heater is not an option for you, then you need to start from the preparatory stage. If you are not sure that you know exactly how to do this step, you can search the Internet for various videos that will help you.

If you describe the stage of preparing the loggia for future insulation, then you should pay attention to such important details:

First, determine whether it is necessary to insulate the entire loggia, or you can focus on insulating just a few of its sections. That is, carefully plan future work. If we talk about which parts are most important to insulate, then you must definitely choose its parapet, and the rest - if necessary. In the case when the walls of the loggia are in contact with the residential part of the house, then they should not be insulated on their own;
Choose those heaters that are best suited for this purpose. The most popular material today is considered to be polystyrene foam, which can be of different sizes and thicknesses depending on the climatic conditions in which you live;
If you are going to create the so-called two-layer insulation yourself, then you should first strengthen the first layer of materials, and then attach the second to it.

On the Internet, you can find a lot of videos that talk about how to properly insulate a loggia. In most cases, people use expanded polystyrene boards, as this material retains heat well and is easy to work with. It is with him that you can effortlessly insulate the loggia even on your own.

After the preparatory stage, it is necessary to proceed to internal insulation. It is very important first of all to deal with the insulation of those walls that face the street. Do not use a heater for this purpose! How to properly insulate a loggia? Follow this simple pattern:

If you do not have external insulation, then you need to additionally waterproof the walls of the loggia. To do this, use any suitable material. Experts in video clips recommend using penofol for this purpose. After all, it also allows you to enhance thermal insulation;
On top of the waterproofing material, foam polystyrene plates must be mounted.

In order for your loggia to become small, but cozy room, it is also necessary to insulate its ceiling. To do this correctly and independently, you must carefully follow our instructions:

First, attach the guide bars to the ceiling, which will then play the role of a mounting location. You can also use galvanized profile strips;
Make holes in several suitable places for this, with which to attach the polystyrene foam plates. They can be fixed with special dowels-fungi;
After finishing work, be sure to fill the holes with mounting foam.

Of course, you can stop at this stage, but the floor in your loggia room will not be entirely comfortable and pleasant. You can use a special heater for heating, but it is best to insulate it too. In order to independently insulate the floor, there are many different ways. Some of them are described in various videos, some can be found in articles all over the Internet. But in order to do everything right, you should pay attention to the following scheme of work:

Clean the stove from old finishes;
Attach special wooden bars, strictly aligning them to the ideal horizontal position;
It is very important to pay attention to the fact that after installing the insulation, the bars should be about 5 mm higher than it;
Further, everything is very simple: install the polystyrene foam in the same order as you did it yourself before.

If your loggia, even after such procedures, is still not as comfortable as you would like, you can use a heater. Do not want to spend extra money on electricity? Then insulate it outside. There are two ways here: use plaster or make a ventilated facade. We will focus on the first one in this article.

First, fix the selected heat-insulating material over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe loggia with ordinary dowels (it is better to choose with wide hats);
Close it with a waterproofing layer. In numerous videos, plastic film is used. She will make sure that the insulation does not absorb a lot of moisture into itself from the plaster, which has not yet hardened;
On special brackets on top of the film, fix the plaster mesh. She will play a supporting role;
Then apply plaster.

Now you know how to make a loggia warm, even without using a heater.

Making a warm loggia with your own hands is not difficult. Work on creating a warm loggia can be divided into three stages: glazing, insulation, decoration and heating. It should be noted that the second and third stages of work are interconnected. Since from the selected option interior decoration depends on the technology of work on insulation.

It is impossible to make a warm loggia without good glazing. Glazing itself is not only a protection against atmospheric precipitation, as in the case of a non-insulated loggia, but also should not allow heat from the loggia to penetrate into the street. Therefore, glazing should be similar to that used in the apartment.

Fig.1.

For the loggia, two points are very important. Firstly, it is the need to use an expansion profile that will compensate for the thickness of the heat insulator and interior trim.

Fig.2.

Secondly, since there is no quarter on the loggia, it is necessary to provide special pads for the gap between the wall and the window frame.

Fig.3.

When installing airtight windows, you should think about ventilation. The solution to the problems of ventilation of the loggia can be of three types.

When ordering windows, provide a window, this part of the window has not lost its relevance over the years. However, given the height of the window opening on the loggia, as well as the increase in the cost of glazing, this option is not the most successful.

Another solution is to install special ventilation valves on the frames.

Fig.4.

If windows are already installed on the loggia and ventilation valves are not provided, then you can install a valve supply ventilation, it will solve many problems.

Fig.5.

Loggia insulation

Good windows will not allow you to make the loggia warm, this requires additional insulation. You can insulate the loggia from the outside and from the inside. In most cases, the loggia is insulated from the inside, as it is easier to do it yourself. To insulate the loggia, three types of heat insulators can be used: mats based on basalt wool, polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene.

All of them perfectly cope with their functions, but differ in their thermal insulation characteristics and cost. For warming the loggia, two main factors are important: a decrease in the area of \u200b\u200bthe loggia due to the heater and dampness of the heater due to the penetration of warm, moist air from the loggia into it, and as a result, the loss thermal insulation characteristics insulation.

Fig.6.

can lead following characteristics heaters. For complete insulation of the loggia for basalt or mineral wool, a layer 70 mm thick is required, for polystyrene 50 mm for polystyrene foam 30-35 mm. Expanded polystyrene and foam do not absorb moisture, therefore, there will be no loss thermal insulation properties. Mineral wool absorbs moisture well, therefore, additional vapor barrier is necessary.

Fig.7.

Which insulation to choose is up to you, however, from the above description we can say that the best option is expanded polystyrene, as it minimally reduces the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and does not require additional protection.

With the help of heaters, the problem of thermal insulation due to heat transfer is solved, but the problem of heat transfer by radiation remains. To solve this problem, folgoizol or analogues are used. With its help, the transfer of heat by radiation is blocked, and at the same time vapor barrier is performed.

Fig.8.

Loggia decoration

Finishing the loggia can be done by any building materials from lining to drywall. However, as mentioned earlier, the insulation work also depends on the method of finishing the loggia. This is due to the fact that, regardless of the material, a pre-assembled frame is required for finishing. At the same time, depending on the method of finishing, the design of the frame will be different.

Fig.9.

There are also two options for the possible assembly of the frame: on top of the insulation or in the body of the insulation. Naturally, this in turn affects the insulation gasket.

Fig.10.

Without going into details, we can say that when finishing the loggia PVC panels or clapboard frame as a frame apply wooden bars that are installed horizontally. If the loggia is finished with drywall, then the frame is also assembled from bars, however, by analogy with the frame for drywall from metal profiles.

Fig.11.

Fig.12.

Depending on the type of insulation, the frame can be assembled on top of it or in the body of the insulation. If heaters such as polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene are used, then the frame can be fixed to the wall directly, through the insulation. If mineral wool is used, then it is more expedient to first make a frame, and then lay a heat insulator into it.

Fig.13.

Loggia heating

By and large, if the loggia is well insulated, then heating is not required on it. As practice shows open door on the loggia, the temperature difference between the loggia and the room is 2-5 degrees. However, if the loggia will be used as, for example, an office, then additional heating is still necessary.