Do-it-yourself concrete screed in a private house. How to pour a concrete floor in a private house? Manufacturing of formwork and installation of beacons

There are two ways of laying floors in a private house: concreting on the ground or on beams and slabs. The technology of work is radically different, the choice of the desired method depends, first of all, on the level ground water and dry soil. The first option is cheaper, it is easy to do it yourself, pouring is suitable for all types of foundations, except for pile foundations. In this case, the concrete floor is a reinforced screed over compacted soil, heat and waterproofing layers of building materials, each of which has a different thickness and its own functional purpose. Subject to the requirements of the technology, an even, strong and durable coating is obtained, which is fully suitable for decorative flooring. finishing of any type and withstanding significant operational loads.

To the floors in a private house, laid directly on the ground, certain requirements are put forward. For example, concreting is allowed when:

• The depth of groundwater is not less than 5 m.
• The presence of constant heating in a private house, since freezing of the soil leads to an increase in the load on the foundation.
• Dry and immovable ground.
• An established foundation.

Pouring a concrete floor is advisable when building a private house with a basement or basement. Work begins after the construction of walls and roofs and proceeds according to the following scheme:

1. Marking the level.

2. Leveling and compacting the soil.

3. Backfilling of sand, gravel and crushed stone.

4. Installation of hydro and thermal insulation.

5. Reinforcement.

6. Formwork laying and installation of guide beacons.

7. Filling the solution, leveling and final screed.

Floor marking and soil preparation

The fixer is the lowest point of future doorways, to create a straight line, marks are made on the wall at a height of 1 m. Further, a “zero” level is formed around the entire perimeter: 1 m is measured down, for convenience, nails are hammered in the corners and a cord is pulled. After that, all construction debris is removed and the leveling and compaction of the soil begins. The thickness required for a multi-layer structure is 30–35 cm. In some cases, it is necessary to remove excess soil, in others - to fill up (preferably sand). It is better to carry out tamping not with your own hands, but with the help of a vibrating plate, if such equipment is not available, then an ordinary log is used. At the exit, there should be a flat and dense surface of the soil, without sagging underfoot.

The next step is backfilling and compacting clean river sand; it is recommended to drive in special pegs to control the floor level. On top of 5 cm of the base layer of sandy waterproofing, gravel, expanded clay or crushed stone is placed and leveled, the backfill is washed with water to compact and level the stones. The thickness of this layer is about 10 cm, to enhance the hydrophobic properties, experts recommend filling it with liquid bitumen. Such a device of a concrete floor on the ground is carried out to protect against capillary penetration of moisture.

There are two options for the top layer: a rough concrete screed (6–8 cm) or filling with crushed stone of smaller fractions mixed with liquid cement mortar. All sharp stone edges are removed, each layer is checked for horizontal deviations.

Thermal insulation and reinforcement

The next stage is connected with the insulation of the concrete floor in a private house and strengthening its bearing capacity. The following are often used as heat-insulating materials: polystyrene, mineral wool (stone basalt is best), expanded polystyrene, perlite, moisture-resistant plywood and cork. For additional protection from moisture, the bottom layer of roofing material or film is laid. When using a waterproofing membrane, the instructions are carefully studied to determine the desired mounting side. From above, the insulation is also protected by a thin film.

In order to enhance the bearing capacity of the concrete floor, reinforcement of the future screed is carried out. This will require a metal (less often - plastic) mesh with a rod thickness of at least 3 mm. It is laid according to the usual chess pattern, the minimum step is 10 × 10 cm. The higher the expected loads, the thicker the reinforcement should be, the joints are connected by welding. Next, leveling beacons are placed and final concreting is carried out.

Pouring technology

The guides are laid according to a pre-marked pattern in increments of 2 m, usually a board, a thin beam or metallic profile. They are fixed with a thick concrete mortar, the upper level is brought to the "zero" mark. Between them, a formwork made of moisture-resistant plywood is installed, all elements that will be removed from the solution are treated with oil. It is desirable to carry out a final screed of a concrete floor in one go, the solidity and reliability of the structure depends on this.

To create a solution, cement with frost resistance from 400, clean sifted sand, fine crushed stone and water are used. The proportions are respectively: 1:2:4:0.5. Be sure to use a concrete mixer, this stage of work is difficult to carry out on your own, it is advisable to invite a partner. The starting point for pouring is the corner opposite to the door, several sections are poured at once, the solution is leveled with a shovel from above. The recommended thickness of the concrete layer at this stage is 5 cm. A vibrating plate is used to compact and fill voids.

The flooded areas are equal to a long rule, the excess is removed, concrete mortar is added in the right places. After that, the guides and formwork are removed, the process is repeated until the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is completely filled. The finished concrete surface is covered with a film and left for 3-4 weeks until the final hardening, in order to avoid cracking, it is wetted with water, at least 1 time per day. Self-levelling mixtures are used as a finishing fill, they are applied and leveled in the same way: from the far corner to the door. The minimum period required for their drying is 3 days, a more accurate value is indicated in the instructions.

A prerequisite for high-quality concreting is tamping and checking the horizontalness of each layer. Finishing concrete screed carried out exclusively on lighthouses. In the case of do-it-yourself installation of a warm floor in a private house, a thermal gap of about 1–2 cm (foamed polyurethane or polyethylene) is provided, it is needed to prevent cracking. The height of the level depends on the insulation of the basement, if it has been carried out, then "zero" can be placed both above and below the foundation. If not, then the concrete floor should not be made below the top, in order to avoid the appearance of freezing zones.

It is important not to neglect thermal insulation, heat loss in a private house through the bottom is at least 20%. To enhance hydroprotection, it is allowed to lay a thin layer of clay on the ground, it must be watered and rammed. When building a building on damp soils, expanded clay cannot be used because of its absorption properties (which increase in winter). Also, this material is undesirable as the main insulation.

For achievement desired characteristics protection from the cold will require a layer of expanded clay of at least 80 cm - it is much easier to lay foam boards 5 cm thick. A common mistake when working with concrete floors is to fill the waterproofing layer from construction debris, large or sharp stones.

More recently, the floor in private houses was made of wood, but modern developments do not stand still. And today, concrete is used for coating. It is durable, does not change shape when exposed to moisture, easy to install. Concrete screed is an ideal coating for linoleum, tiles, laminate. Of course, wood flooring has always looked good in a house made of wood. natural material. But it has a number of disadvantages. Wood needs scrupulous care, and indeed the material is very whimsical.

It should be noted that it is not so difficult to make such a concrete floor with your own hands. The main desire and observance of certain rules.

Options for using concrete screeds

This type of material is used for a variety of purposes.

• In the first place is the smoothing of surface irregularities.
• The second place is occupied by an increase in the level of the entire base.
• Well, in third place - floor insulation.

With the help of quite different installation technologies, it is possible to create a surface that can withstand any damage and stress. Correct installation gives a 100% guarantee that the floor in rooms with a high level of humidity will become an ideal rough finish. Of course, the technological processes of pouring will differ from each other, because it all depends on the type of building.

General characteristics for the installation of a concrete floor

It should be noted once again that concrete is a versatile material and is not whimsical in operation. You can pour the mixture on the old coating, regardless of what composition was used before. And even if it is soil, you should not be afraid that nothing will work out. Feel free to use concrete as a black coating. It is necessary to remember only a few steps that are mandatory. They provide long life and quality.

1. The surface is cleaned from dirt and dust.
2. Waterproofing work is underway.
3. If earlier the owner planned to insulate the floor, then he does it at this stage.
4. Reinforcing structures are of high quality.
5. Expose beacons and guides.

Sometimes more steps are taken. When concrete is poured onto the ground, they make another bulk layer.

1. Structural seams. They are used in cases where the material is not poured immediately, but at intervals of several hours. They are needed in places where the previously made screed touches the new one.
2. Deformation seams. When concrete mix will be in contact with walls, ledges, then the implementation of such seams is a mandatory step. They do this to avoid foundation defects during operation.
3. Shrink seams. Used when the surface does not dry at the same time.

They make indentations very quickly, until the base has hardened and the first cracks have appeared. When the floor is completely ready for use, the gaps are treated with sealants.

Limiting criteria for placing concrete on the ground

You need to know about the level of groundwater. The most acceptable indicator is 5 meters from the future foundation. The lower the water, the better. There will be no flooding, and the foundation will be in perfect order. If the building is built on moving soils, then it is better not to use a concrete screed. The coating is suitable only for those houses that will continue to be constantly heated in the cold seasons. When the soil starts to freeze, then the floor, respectively, will be of the same state. This will provoke the formation of defects in the foundation. Installation for pouring concrete is allowed if the soil is dry without moisture.

Preparatory processes

First, make markings around the perimeter of the entire surface. If the lower level of the doorway is chosen as a guideline, then the following actions should be carried out as follows:

• draw a straight line at the bottom of the hole;
• using a level, a straight line is drawn along the walls of the room;
• from the intended horizontal line in some places lay down a gap of 1 meter;
• connect all points with one solid line.

In order for the installation to be carried out easily and conveniently, nails are driven in in all corners of the room, and either a strong thread or a rope is pulled over them. Next, prepare the materials for backfilling, calculate the thickness of the layer that will be backfilled. It is imperative to rid the surface of debris, and then the top ball of soil is completely removed. Deepening into the ground should be 35 centimeters. The earth is qualitatively rammed. To do this, use a vibrator or a self-selected log with handles. Whether a job well done is checked by making a footprint of shoes on the ground. If there is no print left, then there is no doubt that everything was done correctly.

For greater waterproofing, a layer of clay is poured. It is well compacted so that possible dampness cannot pass through it.

Backfilling under the floor in a private house

Now you need to move on to the sand bed. In most cases, a mixture of sand and gravel is used. These materials are versatile, inexpensive and easy to use.

The subsequent stages are carried out step by step, forming layers of 10 centimeters. To control the processes, sticks of the desired height are prepared in advance. They are stuck into the base, and after completion they are carefully removed for the next ball. Before backfilling, the sand and gravel mixture is moistened a little, ordinary water will do. The bedding layer should be no more than 10 centimeters.

Then they fill the surface with gravel and level the surface to an ideal state so that there are no bumps and convex edges. You can pour a little sand on top and compact well.

Waterproofing the floor in a private house

This stage is considered the most basic and important. depends on waterproofing. future life coatings, service life. It serves as a protective layer for the top coat from moisture.

Thanks to the waterproofing, microorganisms will not be able to penetrate inside. The preparation of the process depends on how the house is built, if the walls and roof have already been erected, then you can safely carry out installation work. In the event that the mansion is not fully completed, the waterproofing is placed on gravel, but a ball of expanded clay is poured on top.

For the insulating layer, roofing material or polyethylene film is most often used. AT modern world many more mastics and liquid materials appeared on the construction markets. Each of them has its own characteristics, which are introduced during the installation work.

One needs to be singled out important fact when the screed is carried out on the ground and the house has already been built, then better fit roll waterproofing. The material is laid over the entire surface overlapping each other. The edges are fixed with construction tape.

Thermal insulation processes when laying the floor with your own hands

The range of materials for flooring insulation is huge enough to make the right and appropriate choice. You need to proceed from the price criteria and the characteristics of the premises. Specialists identify the highest quality and affordable materials: polystyrene foam, expanded clay, polystyrene, basalt wool.

The floor in a private house simply must be warm and comfortable, because the owners will have to live there for more than one year.

Reinforcement of the flooring

Before pouring concrete, reinforcing structures are laid on the floor. They serve to strengthen the future foundation and distribute the load over the entire surface, and not in separate sections. The reinforcement frame is made of metal rods or mesh. It doesn’t matter what he made of, it is important to remember that the structure should not be located directly on the base, it is lifted with a special fastener. Stands are called chairs, and they raise the frame by 3 centimeters.

Setting beacons and guides

The most crucial stage, because when the beacons and guides are accurately installed without deviations, the floor surface will be flat.

The room is divided into sections with a width of 2 meters. A metal profile is used as guides or wooden beam. The main thing is that the auxiliary structures are smooth and even.

Solution preparation and pouring

If the surface is huge and the amount of work is large, then it is worth using a concrete mixer. Only in this way will the process go smoothly. For excellent performance, it is recommended to add perlite to the mixture.

But how, is it right to connect all the elements for an ideal solution? A couple of buckets of perlite are poured into the machine and 10 liters of water are added. The mass is well mixed until a homogeneous consistency and 5 kilograms of cement are mixed. Add another 5 liters plain water, and then sand is poured - a sufficient amount of 5 kilograms. Stir and keep the mixture at rest for 10 minutes. After a pause, the solution is completely ready for use.

There must be a damper tape. It will help create insulating seams. It is glued to protruding structures.

Pouring concrete cost in the corner opposite the door. Level the surface with a shovel, penetrating movements to remove excess air. Quickly cope with such work, it is possible with a vibrating compactor. It is immersed in the middle of the mixture and “milk” is obtained from the concrete. Next, the device is installed in such a way that it works in a zigzag manner, moving from one side to the other. Thus, the entire surface will be filled with the mixture.

The floor must be constantly moistened with water at the end it is covered with a film. It takes about a month for the coating to dry well.

And only then the owner of the house will be able to calmly move on to the next planning stages for arranging his home.

The concrete floor has a number of advantages over its wooden, tile, laminate and other counterparts. This design is not afraid of exposure to moisture and frost, concrete is not affected by fungus and rodents, and most importantly, a properly equipped concrete floor has a high load capacity and wear resistance. How to fill the floor with concrete correctly, we will consider in this article.

When is Concrete Flooring Necessary?

In the living quarters of a private house, with rare exceptions, wooden, plywood or laminate floors are laid. The following materials are used: solid board, floor board, plywood, chipboard and other "wood containing" structural products.

During the operation of the structure, due to construction errors and water ingress, it is possible for the wood to become infected with the Serpula lacrymans house fungus. This fungus is a big lover of wood, destroying everything wooden structures within one, maximum two years. Sometimes fungus-affected floorboards literally explode with a loud noise and crackle within six months of infection.

The danger of "Serpula lacrymans" is that it cannot be 100% removed from the building. Even if an expensive set of disinfection measures is carried out, there is still a danger of fungal spores remaining in the thickness of the walls.

In this case, the owner of a house affected by house flexibility has no choice but to fill the floor with concrete, the price of which is not only significantly lower than re-laying the floor with a floorboard, plywood, solid board or USB boards, but also a guarantee that the owner will never again be concerned about such problem.

Therefore, given that infection with house fungus occurs exclusively in conditions of high humidity, so as not to subsequently spend significant funds on repair work, it is recommended to immediately fill the floor with concrete in the garage, basement, barn, bathhouse, sauna, bathroom, bathroom, on an open or unheated veranda, in a cold hallway and other rooms where there is a risk of moisture condensation under the surface of the structure.

How to fill the floor with concrete with your own hands?

An ordinary concrete floor is a kind of "layer cake" consisting of waterproofing, insulation, reinforcement, a layer of concrete and a layer of iron. As an example, consider the question: how to fill the floor in a house with concrete in a room of certain dimensions. The technology discussed below is suitable for building a concrete floor in a barn, garage, basement, bathhouse, bathroom, bathroom and on the veranda.

You will need the following materials and tools:

• Portland cement CEM I 32.5N PC (M400) or CEM I 42.5N PC (M500), quarry sand and water for making mortar.
• Polyethylene film or roofing material for waterproofing.
• Expanded clay with a fraction size of 10-20 mm (preferably).
• Steel welded reinforcing mesh with a mesh size of 100x100 mm.
• Water level, pencil, ruler.
• A building rule or a long, even wooden lath for marking borders and leveling the surface.
• Trowel and spatula for ironing.
• Steel buckets, shovel, concrete mixer.

Before starting preparatory work it is desirable to determine the required flow building materials: cement, sand, water, expanded clay, mesh and polyethylene. For the calculation, let's set the dimensions of the room, the recommended thicknesses of the layers of materials and the grade of the recommended concrete solution:

• Room, garage, sauna or veranda measuring 4x3 meters.
• The thickness of the expanded clay layer is 100 mm.
• 40-70 mm.
• Construction cement-sand mortar M150.

There are different opinions about what brand of concrete to fill the floor in the garage, bathhouse, on the veranda, basement , and what brand to fill the floor in residential premises. Some sources recommend the brand M150 solution, others brand M200.

Considering the small difference in the consumption of cement, which determines strength, we take the M150 solution for calculation, suitable for all floor options in a private house and outbuildings.

Material calculation

• The amount of expanded clay. In accordance with the size of the room, 4x3x0.1 = 1.2 m3 of material will be required. The specific density of expanded clay of the recommended fraction (10-20 mm) is 400 kg/m3. Accordingly, 400x1.2 = 480 kg of expanded clay will be required.
• The amount of cement, sand and water. We calculate the amount of mortar: 4x3x0.04x1.1 = 0.52 m3 (the number 1.1 takes into account the shrinkage factor of 10%). M150 mortar is prepared in the following proportions: 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand, 0.6 parts of water. Accordingly, to prepare 1 m3 of mortar, you will need: 450 kg of M400 cement, 1265 kg of sand and 285 liters of water. We accept the indicated costs as 100% and calculate the consumption of materials for our case: cement 450x0.52 = 235 kg, sand 1265x0.52 = 657 kg, water 285x0.52 = 148 l.
• The amount of polyethylene film, taking into account the overlap: 4x3x1.1 = 13.2 m2.
• Number of reinforcing mesh: 4x3=12 m2.

Stages of work

We prepare the surface, lay the waterproofing and install the beacons. Before you start backfilling expanded clay, you should carefully plan the base (if the floor is poured onto the ground) and carefully cover the polyethylene with a film with an overlap of 100 mm.

The installation of beacons is a very important stage that requires accuracy and scrupulousness. We will immediately answer the popular question of non-professional builders: how to evenly pour concrete on the floor without beacons?

It's possible. There is a private video on the Internet on how to evenly pour concrete on the floor without beacons. True, to implement such a technology, you will need to purchase and manufacture an expensive special tool and “fill” your hand. Therefore, it is faster and cheaper to install simple and inexpensive beacons.

Installation steps:

• With the help of a ruler, we measure the boundary of the expanded clay backfill of 100 mm from the base surface, and put a point on the wall. We apply the rail or rule with one end to the point and press the rail (rule) with the side surface against the wall along the surface of the base. Using a level laid on top of the rail or rule, we set the horizontal position and draw a backfill boundary line. We consistently rearrange the rail, exposing the horizontal and outlining the border, go around the entire perimeter of the room. This operation performed in tandem with an assistant.
• From the border of the expanded clay backfill, with a ruler we measure the border of the concrete pour 40 mm and draw a line along the perimeter of the room.
• Next, a thick cement-sand mortar of the M150 brand is kneaded. They retreat from the wall 1 m and with a step of 1 m, in the form of pyramids with a base of 150-200 mm, pour (heaps) of mortar - a number of lighthouses. Retreat from a number of beacons to the depth of the room 1 m and repeat the operation. As a result, they get a breakdown of the room with beacons into 1x1 meter squares. Until the solution has hardened, with the help of a rail (rule) and a level, the tops of the pyramids are aligned along the boundary line of pouring concrete. The excess solution is cut off with a spatula, the missing one is sprinkled with a trowel. After leveling, work is stopped for 4-5 days until the solution solidifies.

There are other beacon installation technologies that involve the purchase of steel profiles, anchor bolts, adjusting screws and other material parts. The technology described above is the simplest and cheapest, all other things being equal. The final stages of the construction of a concrete floor:

• Carefully, in order not to damage the beacons, expanded clay is poured out and aligned along the border on the wall using a rail and a level.
• A reinforcing mesh is carefully laid on top of the expanded clay. If the mesh is superimposed on the top of the lighthouse, the interfering piece of wire is bitten out.
• In accordance with the above proportions, a solution is prepared using a concrete mixer. The pouring of the structure is carried out along the lighthouses and the border outlined on the wall. Immediately after pouring the next batch of mortar, the surface is first leveled with a rule or a rail, after which the ironing operation is immediately carried out. In order to avoid delamination along the boundary of mortar batches, the floor must be poured continuously until complete.
• Maintenance of the structure consists in spraying with water for 72 hours. You can walk on the floor 4-5 days after pouring, and laying a finish coating or installing household items is allowed only after the solution has completely dried. Complete drying control - there is no moisture condensate on the back surface of the polyethylene film laid on the floor surface.

Conclusion

The considered technology for the construction of a concrete floor is the simplest and most budgetary of all existing ones. For its implementation, in addition to a concrete mixer, no special tool is required. If necessary, and small dimensions of the room, you can do without a concrete mixer. The solution for pouring can be kneaded on a sheet of iron or in a steel trough.

Concreting the floor in a dwelling is a responsible process. It requires a competent approach and adherence to technology. Only then can you be sure that it will complete successfully.

It is necessary to start concreting the floor in those places that are located as far as possible from the passage or door.

When starting to concrete the floor with your own hands, you should prepare a kit in advance necessary tools as well as building materials.

What will be required to carry out the work?

For concreting the floor, you will need such tools and materials as: a shovel, a trough, crowbar, bars, chalk, crushed stone, gravel, sand, alabaster and others.

In order to fill the floor in your home, you will need the following:

• shovel;
• trough;
• grater;
• rule;
• crushed stone;
• sand;
• heat and waterproofing;
• plasticizers;
• vibrating plate;
• gravel;
• cement;
• bars;
• alabaster or plaster.

Having prepared all these materials and tools, it will be possible to complete all the work not only efficiently, but also quickly. Accordingly, you can start finishing the finished floor as soon as possible.

Preparatory stage

First, you need to prepare the floor in the house. If the dwelling is new, then you only need to clean the base from construction debris. If the house has been put into operation several years or even decades ago, then you need to remove the skirting boards with scrap and dismantle the old floor coverings.

Secondly, you will need to measure the distance from the baseboards to the bottom of the floor. It is necessary that it be at around 30-35 cm. If the distance is less, then you will need to deepen the floor by the required amount. This is done by dismantling the lower part of the base or removing the first layer of soil (if the dwelling has just been built).

Thirdly, you need to consider that the concrete floor in the house will consist of several layers. It is important to make a preliminary markup for each. Then the finished base will be perfect. Along the perimeter of the room, using chalk, you need to make the lowest mark at the level of 10 cm. It will allow you to correctly lay the layer of crushed stone. A mark is placed above at a level of 5 cm. It is along it that you will then need to fill up a layer of sand. Next, two more marks of 5 cm are made, which are necessary for the correct layout of the heat and waterproofing material. And the last highest mark should be 10 cm. This thickness will be a layer of concrete.

The reinforcement grid must be placed in the lower part of the slab, at a depth of one third of its thickness.

After that, you can go directly to the backfill of crushed stone according to the mark made. After that, it is important to align it. Then you can fill in the sand and carry out its compaction. This is done using a vibrating plate. However, if you do not have such a device in your arsenal, then you should make your own. To do this, take a bar 150 * 150 and attach a handle to it from above. From below, you will need to fix another beam vertically. Compact the sand with the finished fixture, and then proceed to the waterproofing. To do this, you can take a material based on bitumen or polyethylene (minimum 200 microns). It must be laid out with an overlap to ensure high-quality waterproofing. Thermal insulation material is similarly lined up top. It is recommended to give preference to quality in order to minimize the cost of heating the house.

Then you need to install beacons. They allow you to fill as evenly as possible. They need to be made from bars. They are placed on a prepared base in such a way that they form on the plane of a cell larger than a meter. To install them correctly, you should use the water level. Then you need to make an additional fixation of the beacons with the help of alabaster or plaster.

Solution preparation

In order for the dwelling to live up to expectations, it is necessary to approach the preparation of the solution with special responsibility. You need to take 1 part of cement (it is better to use M400 for concreting), 2 parts of building sand and 2 parts of gravel. All these components must be combined and mixed. You need to do this as best as possible, it is important to get a mass that is uniform in color. Then 0.5 part of water is added to it, after which everything is again thoroughly mixed with a shovel. It’s great if plasticizers are also added to such a solution. They will provide the cement with fluidity and plasticity. Add plasticizers to the solution according to the instructions given on their label.

Laying the concrete layer

The solution is first laid out in cells, and then distributed over the base using the rule.

Now you can go directly to pouring the floor. You need to start doing it from the far corner of the room, and then gradually move towards the exit. need to be laid out in cells, and then using the rule, you need to distribute it along the base in order to get flat surface without any voids or defects. If irregularities are observed, they can be smoothed out with a grater. Then the concrete solution is laid out in turn in the remaining cells.

After that, the resulting screed should be left for two days. Then you need to remove the beacons. Next, the finishing base is created. It should have a small layer (0.7-1.2 cm). You need to create it from a more liquid solution. This means that 0.7 part of water is added to 1 part of cement, 2 parts of building sand and 2 parts of gravel. Ready mix poured onto a concrete screed and carefully leveled. After that, the floor in a private house is left for 7 days.

Surface grinding

To finished concrete base had an ideal surface, experts recommend polishing it. This is done first using a machine with a disc, the grain size of which is not more than 30. It is necessary to carefully process the entire surface of the created floor. After that, it is additionally polished with a machine with a disc, the grain size of which is within 40. This is done for no more than 15-20 minutes. And at the last stage, the base is polished with a tool with discs having a grain size of up to 1500. Upon completion of this work, the floor will become perfectly smooth and even acquire a glossy sheen. It can be laid on any floor covering - linoleum, parquet, ceramic tiles, cork or something else. Choose it according to what your future will have a private house interior. So, for example, if it is designed in a classic or modern style, then parquet is suitable, and if in the style of baroque or modern, then tiles with monograms and patterns will be appropriate.

By concreting the floor according to the recommendations given, it will be possible to create a high-quality foundation in your private home. It will feature high performance and technical specifications. Therefore, the floor will last for a long time.

The most rational solution for an individual developer is to concrete the floor on the ground in the form of a floating screed. When using other options (roofing along beams, PC slab), harmful radon can accumulate inside the underground, often there is no normal ventilation. Excess moisture leads to corrosion of concrete and biological damage to wood.

The device of the floor on the ground in a private cottage is often confused with pouring monolithic floor with support on the plinth or foundation elements, when the lower fixed formwork serves as a filled, but not compacted soil inside the MZLF tape. it different technologies, the differences of which will be discussed below.

The developer should understand that for specific conditions, the design of the concrete floor on the ground (SG) should be chosen correctly, based on the conditions:

• floors on the ground, it is necessary to create a single base for laying the flooring;
• the design is a floating screed that does not come into contact with the walls of the building and does not start under them;

The confusion in the names of technologies occurs for the following reasons:

• the foundation is laid in the project, the width of which is greater than the thickness of the walls;
• the enclosing structures are shifted outward (the inner surface of the basement, grillage or MZLF tape does not coincide with the plane of the inner walls).

In this case, the developer tries to avoid the resulting step, raises the floor level, pours the screed, not only on the ground, but also rests it on the protruding parts of the foundation. Backfill MZLF or grillage in this case serves as a formwork, but is not properly compacted.

During operation, the soil under the slab or the foundation under the building itself can sag or rise by heaving forces. In the place where the slab rests on the base, serious loads occur that are not taken into account in the calculations. The screed bursts, the floor covering becomes unusable.

It is important to understand that when arranging a floating screed on the ground with your own hands, it rests on tightly packed soil, cannot sag and swell. Therefore, reinforcement with mesh in one layer in the lower third of the structure is sufficient. Slabs supported by foundation/plinth elements are always reinforced in two levels. Backfilling the foundation / basement in this option solves other problems:

• the developer gets rid of the underground, inside which it is necessary to provide natural ventilation, and the low plinth does not allow making air vents in it, as they will be swept over by snow in winter;
• the accumulation inside the underground is eliminated harmful gas radon, freezing of the soil under the cottage and reduced heat loss in the floors;
• formwork costs are reduced, since the lower deck is the earth, which does not need to be compacted with a vibrating plate.

There is a variant of floor construction on the ground with "support" on the foundation, but the support occurs through the foundation layer, while the soil must be well compacted, i.e. in fact, the floor does not rest on the foundation, because. due to the local collapse of the insulation at the place of support on the base, all movements are leveled. That is why for such a design you should not take a high-density insulation.

Floor on the ground with "leaning" on the plinth.

The concrete floor on the ground has the following design:

• backfilling - the arable layer must be completely removed, soil excavated from the MZLF trenches can be used, but only with a minimum clay content, compacted with a vibrating plate in layers;
• underlying layer - necessary for additional leveling, recommended thickness 40 cm, created from sand (on dry soils) or crushed stone with geotextiles (at high groundwater level), compacted with a vibrating plate (every 10 - 15 cm);
• footing - a screed is necessary to protect the waterproofing material from punctures with sharp edges of rubble, it can be poured with lean (B7.5) concrete mortar;
• waterproofing - EPDM films, two-layer polyethylene or built-up bituminous roll material that prevents concrete from getting wet and corrosion of reinforcement inside it;
• insulation - it is enough to make a 5-10 cm layer of high-density polystyrene foam (XPS or EPS brand);
• reinforced concrete - screed reinforced with mesh at the lower level of concrete B15 and higher (corresponds to M200).
• damper layer - around the perimeter, the screed is separated from the walls, plinth or foundation with a special tape or insulation installed on the edge;
• expansion joint - necessary in the openings between the rooms, it is arranged by laying special elements (corners) when pouring the structure.

Scheme of the location of expansion joints.

This is the only correct SG design for a private cottage. However, individual developers often try to save on flooring on the ground, so the following options exist:

• expanded clay is used instead of soil in backfilling - the material is very difficult to compact, but it is light and has thermal insulation properties(but nevertheless it cannot replace the insulation layer), instead of the footing, the surface is shed with cement milk, which binds the top layer and makes it suitable for laying waterproofing;
• exception of footing - a layer of sand with a thickness equal to two sizes of the maximum fraction of crushed stone is laid on top of the crushed stone, after which the non-metallic material is compacted so that it does not leave marks from the workers' shoes, the waterproofing is laid on it, but is not glued, but sealed in places of overlap with each other .

In projects of a private dwelling, there are often partitions and free-standing structures that have a large weight (from 400 kg), which provide point concentrated loads.

Important! The floor on the ground is not a load-bearing structure, therefore, for stoves / fireplaces, interior stairs and heavy partitions, an independent foundation is needed, which can be built into the floor along the ground or take the form of piles, slabs, pillars.

Foundation options for stairs.

Manufacturing technology

Before making a PG with your own hands according to the above scheme, it is not enough to know its design. It is necessary to take into account the nuances of construction at each stage, given below. The main misconception is the suitability of GHGs only for strip foundations of a private house.

In fact, a floating screed can be poured in houses with a low grillage on screw and bored piles, classic and TISE pillars. In this case, the thickness of the structure and its structure remain the same, and the SG is adjacent to the walls on the grillage.

Backfilling MZLF for the floor on the ground.

Training

The floor structure on the ground must have a base with normal bearing capacity. PG is made inside the grillage or MZLF, the beams of which rise above the ground, creating the basement of the foundation. Therefore, it will be correct to fill the internal cavities with soil taken out of the trenches of the strip foundation, leaving 0.4 m for non-metallic material.

In the presence of an arable layer containing a large number of organics, it needs to be removed. Even if the chernozem is compacted with a vibrating plate, after 3-12 months the organic matter in it will rot and the soil will definitely sag, which is extremely dangerous for concrete, even if reinforced, but not connected with the foundation.

Important! At this stage, the elements of the grillage, plinth or foundation should be treated with waterproofing materials (plaster, welded or coated), if this has not been done before.

Communications

Unlike the foundation floating slab, the input nodes engineering systems mounted with their own hands before backfilling the underlying layer. The exact location of the walls is already known, since the grillage or MZLF has already been made. Therefore, it is impossible to make a mistake with the passage of risers in the immediate vicinity of the building envelope.

Even with the minimum thickness of the screed, the maintainability of communications inside the SG is practically zero. Therefore, the following technology is used:

• the water supply is deepened by 1 - 1.5 m, since the soil under the cottage cannot freeze (only for dwellings of all-season operation), the sewerage by 0.7 - 1 m, since the drains leave the house warm;
• the pipes run in sleeves or a corrugated pipe of a larger diameter, so that if they fail, you can pull out part of the circuit from the outside or from the inside of the house and replace them with new ones;
• if necessary, a power cable can be brought into the cottage at a depth of 0.5 m, laying a red signal tape on top of it.

Communications inside the underlying layer.

It is possible to maximize the quality and resource of engineering systems in a private house by installing an underlying layer:

• for plumbing and sewer pipes trenches come off;
• geotextile is laid, the edges of which are attached to the sides of the working;
• 5 - 10 cm layer of sand / gravel is poured;
• communications are established;
• they are covered with the same non-metallic material from above and on the sides;
• covered with the remains of geotextiles and covered with soil.

This will compensate for possible heaving forces and maintain the integrity of engineering systems.

Underlayment

Backfilling of the upper layer with non-metallic material refers to a technology that makes it possible to eliminate heaving forces. Crushed stone and sand have drainage properties, serve as a damper layer of the floor on the ground, are normally compacted by a vibrating plate and do not sag over time.

Sand preparation of the floor on the ground.

However, these materials absorb cement laitance from concrete and do not allow the joints of rolled waterproofing to be properly sealed. Therefore, on top of the underlying layer, it is necessary to pour the footing - 3 - 5 cm screed from a mixture of grade B 7.5.

Waterproofing and insulation

After the foundation has gained strength, rolled bituminous materials are welded onto its surface with an overlap of strips of 10–15 cm. The edges are launched onto the vertical surfaces of the grillage or strip foundation of a private cottage to the floor height on the ground.

Waterproofing and warming of PG.

The optimal insulation option for the considered SG design is high-density extruded polystyrene foam of XPS or XPS grades. It does not sag, retains properties in water and has high vapor barrier properties.

Important! With the specified "pie" of the floor on the ground, the insulation remains under the concrete, the design has a high thermal inertia (accumulates heat, but also increases the energy consumption in the heating boiler during initial heating).

Reinforcement and underfloor heating

Due to the fact that the concrete floor on the ground perceives only compressive loads, its lower layer must be reinforced to compensate for the destruction from tensile forces. For this, a wire mesh of rods with a diameter of 4 mm with a cell of 10 x 10 cm is used, according to SP 63.13330 (reinforced concrete structures).

Reinforcement of the floor on the ground.

According to the regulations of the above joint ventures, SG concreting should be carried out in compliance with the following conditions:

• lower protective layer concrete 1.5 cm minimum;
• to ensure it, the grid is laid on polymer or concrete bosses; it is forbidden to use metals and crushed stone;
• when building up the mesh, the overlap is at least 10 cm (one cell).

If the project includes a warm floor (TP), its contours are laid on top reinforcing mesh, the thickness of the floating screed is automatically increased.

concreting

• the mesh must not be cut;
• to pass the bars through the partition, you will have to cut the required number of grooves in the shield;
• set the formwork in place and foam the remaining cracks;
• nail a beam on one side of the partition to create a ledge in the concrete for bonding with the next piece of screed.

Before pouring, a damping layer is required. To do this, along the perimeter of the SG, pieces of thin (1 cm) polystyrene foam are installed vertically close to the foundation of a private cottage, protruding beyond the design level of the floor, or the perimeter is pasted over with a damper tape that performs the same function.

Damper layer for floating screed.

The mixture is laid from the far corner to the concrete mixer with a ledge. Then it is compacted with a vibrating screed, leveled by the rule along the beacons.

Technology nuances

The strength of floors on the ground is affected by the brand of concrete, the sequence of operations and the materials used. However, there are common features when concreting junction points, platforms for supporting heavy structures and light partitions.

Junction nodes

In order to minimize heat loss in the floors with your own hands, the insulation on the outer edge of the basement and foundation must be connected to the heat-insulating material inside the walls or on them. outer surface(ventilated facade or wet facade) without cold bridges.

Insulation of the wall and plinth to eliminate cold bridges.

Partitions and walls

Since floors on the ground are not a load-bearing structure, under bearing walls and heavy partitions need to pour a separate foundation. Another option is stiffeners along these walls, directed towards the ground, by analogy with the Swedish UWB slab.

A rather difficult case are partitions made of plasterboard on the floor on the ground:

• on the one hand, the steam generator must be separated from the partition with a damper layer, that is, a screed must be made after the installation of the partition;
• on the other hand, drywall systems should be erected after the end of wet processes, otherwise the material will absorb moisture and lose rigidity and strength.

Therefore, a combined technique is used:

• a profile frame is mounted on the foundation;
• a narrow strip of drywall is attached, the width of which is equal to the height of the floating screed;
• a damper tape is glued to it or expanded polystyrene is installed;
• a screed is poured, after drying of which the partitions are sheathed with drywall completely.

Installation of a framework for a partition.

This avoids getting wet drywall when concrete dries and preserves the properties of structural materials.

Ladders and power equipment

The internal structures of a building can be of considerable weight and exert concentrated loads on small areas. Therefore, for fireplaces, interfloor stairs, pumping equipment, stoves and boilers, it is necessary to make a separate foundation or increase the thickness of the floor slab along the ground.

Thus, an individual developer can apply floor-on-ground technology for a low grillage and MZLF tape in order to reduce the construction budget and operating costs, and increase living comfort.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and offers with prices from construction teams and firms will come to your mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.