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A detailed description of radish pests and methods of dealing with them. We start the season with radishes Worms eat radishes what to do

Radishes grow well in middle lane. Gardeners harvest several crops per season, using several varieties. And although the plant has not so many pests, you should not lose vigilance and fight them.

Radishes are the best early varieties. Seeds are planted in the soil until the spores of fungi and larvae are activated, so the fruits form and ripen without much difficulty. It is more difficult for vegetables of medium and late ripening, the growing season of which coincides with the intensive reproduction of harmful microorganisms and insects. They literally attack young shoots, wanting to drink all its juices.

Insects often attack weak shoots, so you should not ignore the introduction of fertilizers and dressings. Adequate nutrition strengthens the immunity of the plant, which means that the chances of catching a disease or infesting the beds with insects are significantly reduced.


damaged radish leaves

The likelihood of flea attacks is reduced if feeding is timely introduced into the garden from slurry. No less effective is the processing of their powder, which is made from wood ash and tobacco dust in equal proportions. It is necessary to carry out the procedures 1 time in 5-7 days.


Cruciferous flea on radish leaves

The white butterfly poses a danger to the radish by laying its eggs directly on the soil. The emerging caterpillars easily move to the leaves and eat them.

To protect radishes from whites, you need to spray with a solution of mustard (2 tablespoons), ground black pepper (1 teaspoon) and table salt (2 tablespoons) per bucket of water.

Small black bugs with bright orange stripes suck the juice out of the radish, causing the young shoot to dry out.

You can protect the garden from the pest if you spray it with an infusion of dope or henbane. The preparation of the working solution involves the infusion of 500 grams of leaves in a bucket of water for 12 hours. To keep the composition longer on the tops, it is recommended to add 2-3 tablespoons of chopped laundry soap.

Belyanka Cruciferous bug

In the second half of May - early June, the female rapeseed sawfly lays eggs. When choosing a place, preference is given to radish, located on the underside of the leaf. Already after 6-10 days, very voracious caterpillars appear from the eggs, which can make many holes in the tops of the plant and thereby kill it.

To protect the plant from this pest, you need to treat it with a special infusion of black henbane. For 500 grams of dry leaves, take 2 liters of water, you need to insist for at least 12 hours, after which the liquid is filtered through a sieve. The resulting infusion is diluted with 8 liters of water, grated soap is added and the beds are treated.

Preventive measures can prevent the invasion of insects, which include autumn cleaning of the site and digging the soil.

Babanukha Rape sawfly

A small bug (body length no more than 2.5 mm) is black with a blue tint, perfectly tolerates frost in plant debris. In spring, it becomes active, laying eggs in unopened buds.

Among the important measures to protect radishes from pest damage:

  • compliance with crop rotation;
  • thorough autumn cleaning;
  • introduction of fertilizers into the soil;
  • selection of quality seeds for planting;
  • the introduction of top dressing to strengthen the immunity of plants;
  • spraying with karbofos;
  • treatment of beds with biological products (Dendrobacillin, Lepidocid, etc.).

Cabbage moth on a radish leaf

Young shoots attract insects. To protect them from the invasion of uninvited guests, it is recommended to carry out preventive measures. Among the effective methods:

  • dusting plants with a powder mixture of naphthalene and road dust (1: 1);
  • spraying powder from wood ash, slaked lime and tobacco dust on the beds (all components are taken in equal proportions);
  • morning spraying with a solution of wood ash (for 3 liters of water, a liter jar of ash and 2-3 tablespoons of crushed laundry soap);
  • spraying seedlings with vinegar solution (1 cup of 9% vinegar per bucket of water);
  • spraying plants with a decoction of green wormwood.

It is clear that one treatment is not enough, so experienced gardeners practice weekly procedures that are repeated for 1.5 months.

When choosing neighboring plants, it is worth considering the option of planting marigolds, nasturtium, fennel, mustard and other repellents.

After each season, a thorough cleaning of plant residues should be carried out. It is in them that most of the pests hibernate. Closer to frost, the bed needs to be dug up so that the larvae and adults freeze out.

The tiny white worms that bore through the roots of radishes, turnips, and other root crops are cabbage fly larvae.

The insect looks like an ordinary house fly, only twice smaller size. The larvae reach about 0.8 centimeters before turning into adults.

As soon as they settled in the garden, oh, how difficult it is to drive away. So that it is better not to let the pest to the beds initially than risk losing part of the radish crop later.

Adult cabbage flies are attracted to moist soil that is rich in organic matter such as manure or humus.

The females of the pest lay their eggs in the ground near the seedlings, from which the larvae soon hatch. They feed on the juicy pulp of root crops for three to five weeks, after which they transform into pupae.

After two to three weeks, adult flies are born from them. However, pupae can remain in the soil all winter. to wake up in the spring and repeat the described cycle.

To prevent the appearance of worms in radishes, observe the following conditions:

  • grow radishes every year in a new place;
  • fertilize the soil in the crop bed with only three years of compost;
  • regularly remove plant tops, weeds and other organic matter from the site;
  • periodically sprinkle radish seedlings with quicklime or;
  • dust the soil around the plants at a distance of 4-5 centimeters from them with a mixture of naphthalene and ash (1: 5) or tobacco dust mixed with an equal amount of garden soil or sand;
  • dig up the soil in the fall in the area for 1-1.5 bayonet spades;
  • keep the bed under a light non-woven fabric for the entire period the radish plants are in the bed - this way you will effectively limit the access of the fly to the soil where it lays its eggs;
  • place yellow basins of soapy or oily water near the bed. It is believed that cabbage flies are attracted to yellow, that is, they fly to it, fall into a water trap and drown.

Another super effective way prevention of damage to radishes are obnoxious worms. Consider some of the most interesting options.

  1. Garlic + radish. Garlic is planted four to six weeks before the first serious frost, or two to three weeks before sowing radish seeds. The teeth are placed at a distance of 10 - 15 centimeters from one another with a row spacing of 60 centimeters. Radishes are sown in grooves made in the center of the row spacing of garlic.
  2. Mint, rosemary, sage + radish. These perennial herbs are planted in a garden bed reserved for radish cultivation 1-2 weeks before sowing. At the same time, mint bushes are dug into the gaps between rows right in pots (about 25 centimeters high), having previously cut off their bottom - this will prevent further undesirable spread of mint over the site. In general, the mentioned plants have repellant properties and make the fly stay away from the garden with radishes.
  3. Marigold + radish. The smell of these unpretentious flowers is also not liked by many insects. In the southern regions, marigolds are grown as a perennial, but in the north the plant freezes in winter. Seeds of marigolds are sown in the spring on a bed with radishes a few weeks before sowing. The row spacing in this case depends on what kind of marigolds you purchased. Some varieties grow only up to 15-30 centimeters, while others can reach up to 90 centimeters in height.

But if, nevertheless, worms attacked your radish and most of it turned out to be spoiled, immediately remove the damaged plants from the garden and burn them. Avoid putting their leaves in compost, as cabbage fly pupae will successfully overwinter and return to the site the next year.

Every gardener who grows crops on the site met with radish pests. In nature, there are enough people who want to feast on the juicy root crops of insects.

Often the gardener does not pay attention to the condition of the plants. The tops are damaged - you think there will be enough for everyone. Some adhere to the rule: plant as much as is enough for themselves, friends and enemies.

Sometimes there are too many of the latter. By the time of ripening, there is nothing to clean: the radish is small, corroded, tough. Who is guilty? Pests!

Common signs of damage to radishes by pests

The gardener should inspect the plantings during the entire period of root ripening. It is recommended to be careful when:

  • damage to the growing point on young plants;
  • perforated leaves;
  • seedling oppression;
  • slow development and growth of tops;
  • damage to the protruding part of the roots.

Even in isolated cases, it is necessary to identify the pest and carry out work to protect the culture..

The main pests of radish and how to deal with them

The radish belongs to the cruciferous family. She has common pests with cabbage, turnips, rutabaga. When related crops are affected, attention should be paid to the condition of the crop plantings.

cruciferous flea

A very dangerous pest. Able to destroy seedlings before the growth of true leaves.

This is a jumping beetle. It overwinters as an adult under unharvested plant debris. When warm weather arrives, it activates. Before crops cultivated plants lives on wild representatives of the Cruciferous family. After germination of radishes, turnips, radishes, it feeds on young leaves.

It gnaws through holes in tender plants. On more rigid makes indentations. Activity period: from morning to 13 o'clock and from 16 o'clock to 18 o'clock. Hot weather promotes reproduction.

The flea lays its eggs in the ground. The larvae live on young roots. They also feed on them. Landings are lost.

  • remove plant residues;
  • dig deep into the ground in autumn;
  • bring in mineral fertilizers into the soil;
  • observe crop rotation;
  • fight weeds;
  • apply sealing plantings of protective plants.

Gardeners dust the ridges with ash and tobacco dust. In difficult cases, it is recommended to use insecticides.

White butterfly caterpillars

This insect is familiar to every adult. They are touched by children and townspeople. The butterfly itself is not harmful to the radish: it feeds on the nectar of flowers (alfalfa, dandelion, clover).

But she lays her eggs on tops. Voracious caterpillars that feed on leaves develop from them. In advanced cases, they completely destroy the tops of the radish. The root crop stops developing.

The gardener should regularly inspect the plantings. Pay attention to the back side of the leaves. Immediately destroy the discovered clutches of eggs and caterpillars.

Exist folk methods protecting plants from whitefly. Along the perimeter of the ridge, sticks with halves of eggshells are stuck. The butterfly does not like competition and flies to lay eggs elsewhere.

Some gardeners thickly sprinkle plantings with sifted oven ash. Belyaka - clean. It will not grow on dirty leaves. After rain and wind protection is updated.

spring cabbage fly

Belongs to the type of flower flies. Mass summer begins with the flowering of bird cherry and cherry, ends after the flowering of lilac.

The fly itself feeds on nectar. She pollinates plants. But its larvae are harmful to gardeners. The fly lays its eggs in the soil under radish plantings. The hatched larvae gnaw through tender root crops, build passages. Outwardly, the radish looks oppressed, the tops begin to wither.

At the first sign of damage to plantings by a flower fly, it is necessary to start a fight. Damaged roots should be dug up and burned. Treat the soil with an insecticide.

Prevention gives excellent results. Weeds must be removed from the site. Protective measures:

  1. It is recommended to plant plants with a pungent aroma along the perimeter: marigolds, celery. They will scare away the fly.
  2. The ridges should be mulched with coarse wood chips or covered with dark non-woven material: there is nowhere for the fly to lay its eggs.
  3. Stretch a net with small cells completely over the landings: the fly will not overcome the obstacle.

Some gardeners thickly sprinkle the ridges with oven ash: this prevents the pest from laying eggs.

cruciferous bug

The cabbage bug hibernates under plant debris. When warm, it flies out and lives on the weeds of cruciferous plants. After the appearance of cultural, it switches to them.

The female lays eggs on reverse side sheet. The larvae feed on the juice of the leaves. Small dots are visible through the light, they turn into spots. The leaf dies, the plant weakens.

Insecticides are used to control pests. Prevention gives excellent results: the destruction of weeds, digging the soil before winter.

Some gardeners attract cabbage bug enemies to the site: the motley fly phasia and the egg-eater trissolkus. They naturally reduce the pest population.

cabbage moth

This butterfly is inconspicuous beige. She feeds on nectar. But its caterpillars are capable of destroying the radish crop.

As soon as the pest begins to flutter over the ridges, the fight should begin. It is recommended to inspect the back of the leaves and the middle of the rosette. Caterpillars must be collected and destroyed, eggs must be washed off with a solution of green soap. In case of severe lesions, radish plantings should be treated with insecticides.

Some gardeners reduce the pest population with traps. On a piece of cardboard or plastic yellow color apply a long-drying substance (pine resin, glue, grease). Butterflies stick to the composition. Traps with insects are destroyed and replaced with new ones. This method helps to identify other winged radish pests..

cabbage moth

This is a nocturnal pest. The butterfly is painted in a dirty gray color. She lays eggs on the underside of the egg. Young caterpillars make holes in the leaves of the radish, grown stronger - gnaw through the bot. Then the caterpillars go to hibernate underground.

Preventive measures will help get rid of the pest. It is necessary to dig the soil deeply, remove weeds, observe crop rotation and neighborhood rules.

Some gardeners lay out pieces of synthetic material soaked in kerosene or tar among plantings to scare away butterflies. Caution should be exercised in the use of insecticides for early radish varieties.

Rape sawfly

The insect ovipositor is like a saw with notches. With it, the female pierces the leaves on the underside and lays eggs. The caterpillars hatch. They eat the leaves. After them, veins remain from the leaves.

They are most active in warm, dry weather. Precipitation and cold weather are detrimental to them. Short rains of caterpillars wait on the underside of the leaves.

The wasp rider is a natural enemy of the sawfly. She lays eggs in the body of caterpillars. Beneficial insects should be attracted to the site.

In rainy weather, caterpillars must be collected and destroyed. With large pest populations, it is recommended to use insecticides.

Rape beetle

Brilliant blue-green bug. Winters in the ground. When the soil warms up to 10 degrees Celsius, it comes to the surface.

Active from May until the end of June. Eats the buds from the inside. Prefers canola, but damages any cruciferous plants (and radishes too). Able to destroy 70% of the crop. At the first sign of planting, it is recommended to treat with an insecticide.

Slugs

They damage the tops and parts of root crops protruding above the soil surface. They feed at night. During the day they hide under boards, plant debris.

Aphid

The insect is passive. Garden ants carry it to radish plantings. Aphids allocate sweet juice, ants like it.

Aphids should be washed off the leaves with a green soap solution. To attract ladybugs, marigolds, calendula, and chamomile are planted next to radish ridges. Spraying with infusions of tobacco or orange peels will help scare away aphids.

Babanukha

Shiny green beetle. Spends winter in the upper layers of the soil, under manure, plant heaps. With the onset of warm weather, it climbs up.

It gnaws the leaves. The plant weakens and stops in development. Additional harm: transfers fungal and bacterial diseases to healthy plants.

Gardeners fight babanukha in different ways:

  • collected by hand;
  • try not to miss the deadline for planting radishes;
  • spray the ridges with insecticides.

To reduce the risk of pest invasion, crop rotation should be observed. vegetable crops and remove plant debris.

Preventive methods of protection

Pest control takes a lot of time. The gardener spends energy spraying and manually collecting insects. Prevention is much more effective. Required:

  • free the site from weeds;
  • attract beneficial insects;
  • observe crop rotation of vegetable crops;
  • plant friendly plants nearby;
  • comply with sowing dates;
  • apply mineral fertilizers.

Radish- tasty and healthy root vegetable. This vegetable of the cabbage family came to us from Central Asia, passing China along the way. It was brought in during the time of Peter the Great, and since then it has taken root with us, and has become very popular - rarely anyone does not want to treat themselves to a radish in early spring.

radish contain There are many trace elements that we need to ensure normal metabolism and improve blood circulation. These are phosphorus, sodium, iron, calcium, magnesium. It is very useful for the cardiovascular system, increases the level of hemoglobin in the blood, and improves immunity.

Radish is also rich in vitamins, especially vitamins C, PP, group B. It contains various essential oils. Highly useful radish for people suffering diabetes, gout, gastrointestinal diseases, diseases of the pancreas, liver, gallbladder.

Radish also prevents the deposition of fat, so if you want to lose weight, this vegetable will be indispensable for you.

Radishes are rich in fiber. Therefore, the radish contributes to the normal functioning of the intestines, and removes cholesterol. The presence of pectin in the radish makes it capable of cleanse the body from harmful substances and toxins.

Radish is also used for prevention colds and even cancer.

There are also contraindications. Since the radish is an extremely spicy vegetable, eating it is contraindicated in case of peptic ulcer, it can lead to exacerbations.

Also, radishes can have a negative effect on the thyroid gland, and in some cases even cause the formation of a goiter.

radish tops is not inferior in its usefulness to the root crop, and it is rarely used for food in vain. It has a pleasant spicy flavor and can be eaten raw, used in salads, and other dishes.

Growing radishes

Planting a radish

FROM growing radishes you need to hurry in early spring, as soon as the top layer of soil thaws to a depth of 4 cm. If you are a little late with planting radishes, that is, the risk of growing only tops. Radish loves coolness, and can not stand the heat - the best temperature for it is 15-20 degrees.

But you don’t have to worry too much about frosts - it can withstand up to -3 degrees of frost, and adult plants - up to -6 degrees.

You can plant radishes not only in spring, but also in autumn, when the temperature drops to 20 degrees. And the harvest may be better than the spring one. You can even leave it before winter, and then pull it out from under the snow all winter for the table.

Radish leaves, like other radishes and turnips, should not be crowded. That's why plant a radish stands sparse. In a row, keep a distance between plants of 4 cm. A distance of 20 cm can be made between rows. Seeds should be planted to a depth of 1.5–2 cm. So that the seeds are not lower, you can make holes by compacting the moistened soil with a board that has protrusions at a given distance . If you plant radishes more often, then you will have to thin them out. And of course, you need to remove all the weeds from the garden.

Lighting

Radish loves sunny places, but does not like long daylight hours. The optimal day length is 12 hours. In any case, it should not be more than 18 hours, otherwise it will go to the arrow. If it is larger, you can artificially reduce it by covering the radish with an opaque cover from 7 pm to 7 am.

The soil

To grow radishes, you need good fertile soil, but there should not be fresh organic matter - radishes cannot tolerate an excess of nitrogen. In addition, worms can start in radishes from fresh manure. Acidity soil should be neutral: pH 5.5-7.0. Too acidic soils lime, otherwise the radish can get sick with clubroot.

In the fall, it is good to add at least half a bucket of rotted manure to the area under the radish. As a rule, this is enough, but if the leaves of the radish are pale, you can feed it with infusion of ash, in a ratio of 1 cup per 10 liters of water, to provide easily digestible potassium.

Radish loves light, loose soils . On heavy soils, it will go to the arrow. Good autumn before spring planting sow radishes green manure, which will make the soil loose and structured.

Do not forget about the rotation of crops - after radishes and any cruciferous plants, at least 4 years must pass before you plant radishes in this area again. They cannot be predecessors for radishes - turnips, radishes, turnips, daikon, watercress, cabbage, horseradish. Radish grows well after, tomatoes, cucumbers and legumes.

Watering

Radish - very moisture-loving plant , it needs to be watered often and in large quantities so that the earth gets wet to a depth of 7-10 cm. Without watering, the radish will have bitter and tasteless fruits. Watering should be constant - after a drought, heavy watering can cause root crops to crack.

If the weather is hot, radishes should be watered every day to keep them at a more comfortable temperature.

Pest protection

The radish suffers the most from cruciferous flea . To protect against it, you can sprinkle tender radish shoots with a mixture of ash and tobacco dust in a 1: 1 ratio.

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Did you know? Due to the high content beneficial vitamins(A, B1, B2, B3, B6, E, C, P, PP), minerals (calcium, phosphorus, iron, potassium, magnesium) and phytoncides, radish is able to restore the human immune system after a long winter period.


Babanukha, or cabbage (horseradish) leaf beetle, can be recognized by a small body (3-4 mm) of black, dark blue color with a green tint. Their larvae are dirty yellow, 5 mm long. This pest attacks all cabbage plants. Winters under post-harvest residues, in soil and manure. Comes out of wintering in spring. First, it feeds on weeds, and then migrates to cultivated cabbage crops. From this period, the females begin to gnaw through holes in the leaf plates and lay eggs there. Several generations of beetles hatch during the season.

With the mass distribution of babanukhs, insecticides allowed for processing radishes are used - Aktellik, etc.


Perhaps the most common and dangerous pest of radish is the cruciferous flea. This is a small (2-3 mm) insect of dark color (blue, black, green) with a metallic sheen, which quickly jumps from plant to plant. Harms radish leaves by eating holes in them. It can severely damage the leaf plate, which disrupts the process of photosynthesis. As a result, the plant stops growing and may even die. The flea is especially dangerous for young radishes in the first two weeks after germination, since it is able to completely destroy them. A favorable period for the attacks of this pest is a dry hot summer.

The larvae overwinter in plant debris and soil. With the advent of spring, they first settle on weeds belonging to the cabbage family, and when cultivated cruciferous plants emerge, they massively migrate to them. Eggs are laid in the soil in early and mid-summer. One generation of cabbage fleas develops per season.

Control measures. To prevent flea damage, radish beds are fertilized with slurry. You should also destroy weeds in time and carry out a thorough autumn cleaning and digging of the garden. In the process of growing a plant, it is necessary, if possible, to feed it, loosen the ground under it more often and water it. All this will accelerate the growth of radishes, and for a strong and well-developed plant, the flea will no longer pose a strong threat. Also, in hot weather, radish seedlings are covered with burdock leaves and fir branches.
Before spraying flea radishes with insecticides, you can try gentle folk methods. So, against this pest, treatment with a solution of wood ash is used. It is prepared from 2 cups of fresh ash, 50 g of grated laundry soap (1 tbsp. liquid soap) diluted in 10 liters of water. The solution is left overnight, and early in the morning (up to six o'clock), when the flea has not yet entered the fishery, the leaves are treated with it. Pre-infusion must be filtered. Also, the solution is used immediately after watering.

You can just sprinkle wood ash over the garden. This procedure is carried out two or three times with an interval of four to five days. In the same way, radishes are treated with tobacco dust, ash, tansy powder (1 matchbox / 1 sq. M), celandine. They repel a flea and infusions of garlic, tomato tops. After watering or rains, the treatment with these products must be repeated.

Important! When processing radishes with folk remedies, it must be transferred to drip irrigation. Otherwise, the solutions will be washed off and not have the desired effect.

Some gardeners cover the beds with not heavily affected young shoots with agrospan - a white non-woven material. Or place crops under plastic bottles. This helps to stop the spread of the flea for a while. After the seedlings get stronger, they must be opened and treated with an ash solution.

Sticky traps are also used. For this purpose, for example, flags made of fabric, plywood or paper, smeared with non-drying caterpillar glue, are installed near plants. In the process of movement, the fleas stick to the sticky surface.

In the event that biological methods do not help and there is a great threat of crop loss, they resort to the use of insecticidal preparations from the cruciferous flea. Inta-Vir, Aktellik, Fufanon will help to overcome it. Processing is carried out only in early dates radish development.

Important! The use of insecticides for the treatment of radishes is an extreme necessary measure when other methods in the fight against the pest turned out to be powerless. Spraying is carried out no later than 20 days before harvest.


Belyanka is a white butterfly with dark wingtips. It has a length of 20-25 mm, a wingspan of 40-50 mm. The butterfly itself does not harm the vegetable. But its larvae are leaf-eating pests of radish. They eat leaves from the edges or gnaw through holes, which cause serious damage to the plant. Caterpillars of a white green wave with light stripes reach a length of 30-40 mm. After flying out in March-May, whitefly butterflies lay their eggs on the leaves of cabbage plants. During the season, 1-5 generations can develop.

Control measures . The main control measures for these radish pests are:

  • compliance with crop rotation;
  • early sowing;
  • destruction of cruciferous weeds;
  • collection of caterpillars by hand;
  • spraying with a solution of salt, mustard and ground pepper (2 tablespoons of mustard, 2 tablespoons of salt, 1 teaspoon of red or black ground pepper / 10 liters of water);
  • treatment with biological and chemical preparations (in case of mass damage).

The number of pests can be reduced by planting dill, carrots, onions, and fennel next to radishes. These plants are able to attract insects of natural enemies of whitefish.

Control measures. You can scare away the cabbage fly by sprinkling beds and plants at the base of the stem with tobacco dust. You can use a mixture of tobacco dust with slaked lime or ash (1: 1). Processing is carried out every week. Also, the pest can be frightened by planting in the immediate vicinity of the celery radish.

It is important to follow the rules of agricultural technology: in particular, to loosen the soil after watering and rains, top dressing, weed control. In order not to give the fly pupae a chance to survive in the winter, in late autumn it is necessary to carry out a deep digging of the earth in the garden. Early sowing of radish is recommended.

Did you know? Not only the root of the radish is eaten, but also the leaves. They are used to make salads and soups.


Often, gardeners have to deal with such a pest as cruciferous bug. It is this sucking insect that causes the radish leaves to turn yellow, and subsequently wither and die. The bug sucks the juices from the leaves. Spends the winter under fallen leaves and plant debris. Control measures. With the invasion of the cruciferous bug, spraying with infusions of dope or henbane will help. They are prepared in this way: a pound of dry flowering leaves pour a bucket of water, insist for 12 hours. Before use, mix 30-40 g of soap. Chemical treatment is not recommended. In extreme cases, Actellik or other drugs are used.


The cabbage moth is a moth of a gray-brown patronizing color. Its dimensions with a wingspan reach 14-18 mm. The butterfly takes off in May. She lays her eggs on the bottom of the leaf plate. A week later, green caterpillars about 1 cm long appear from them. They feed on the pulp of radish leaves.

Control measures . First of all, it is necessary to scare away the butterflies in order to prevent them from laying eggs. This will help spraying with a tobacco solution (200 g of dried tobacco leaves / 10 liters of boiling water), a decoction of citrus fruits, lavender.

Top dressing with superphosphate with calcium chloride has proven itself well. If necessary, and massive damage to plants (more than 10%), biological and chemical preparations are used. However, it should be remembered that during fruit ripening, spraying radishes with such means is prohibited.


The caterpillars of the cabbage moth feed on the leaves of radishes and other cruciferous plants. They carry out their malicious activities for a month. They overwinter in the soil. It is easy to recognize the moth - it is dark yellow in color with dark spots on the front wings. With a wingspan, it reaches a size of 2.5 cm. It lays eggs on the underside of the leaves. Its caterpillars are yellow with light stripes on the sides. Control measures. You can fight the moth by attracting it with bright light, and then catching it. Weeds must be destroyed. Perform autumn digging of the earth. It is better to sow radishes before the butterfly takes off.

With a slight defeat, eggs and caterpillars must be destroyed mechanically. Can be applied foliar and root top dressing potassium and phosphorus. When the threshold of harmfulness of 10% is exceeded, the use of insecticides (Lepidocid, Bikol, Fitoverm, Agravertin, etc.) is recommended.


The rapeseed sawfly is able to completely gnaw radish leaves, leaving only veins. It also damages buds and young shoots. Thus, it prevents fruit set and provokes the death of the crop. Control measures. It is necessary to follow the agrotechnical rules for caring for vegetables: loosening the soil, eliminating weeds, observing crop rotation, getting rid of plant residues.

From folk remedies To combat the rapeseed sawfly, a tincture of black henbane is used: a pound of dried leaves is infused in a small amount of water. After 12 hours, the infusion is filtered and brought to a volume of 10 liters. Before use, mix 30-40 g of soap.

You can also try the processing of a decoction of tomatoes. When observing 3-5 individuals of the rapeseed sawfly on one plant, it is necessary to resort to spraying with insecticides. It is better to do this with biological preparations such as Lepidocide, Entobacterin, etc.


The rapeseed beetle has a black body with a blue tint and brown paws. Appears in early spring on flowering herbaceous plants. Then it moves to other crops during their budding period. It feeds on the insides of buds and flowers (stamens, pistils), pollen. Oviposition is carried out in buds. After 10 days, the flowers begin to eat the larvae. Control measures . In the first place among the methods of dealing with the flower beetle are agricultural procedures and mechanical way. If they are ineffective, apply insecticides.

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