Thermal insulation device. How thermal insulation is performed for walls in different versions

Types of thermal insulation of walls can be divided into two main types. It is external and internal. The most effective is external processing, but sometimes it simply cannot be carried out, then the internal one is done.

In both options, it is necessary to choose the right material for the job, today we will talk about how thermal and sound insulation of walls is done and what material is better to choose. Also on the video in this article and the photo you can get additional necessary information that will help you do the job correctly.

thermal insulation requirements

The thermal insulation of the walls of buildings must meet certain requirements, and they are mandatory:

Have low thermal conductivity;
Meet the requirements of fire safety;
Comply with environmental and chemical safety standards.
The material used must not support combustion, emit hazardous compounds into the air, contain hazardous chemical elements.
For interior work, the material is selected with great care, environmentally friendly and safe. This is important because - in a confined space, with constant contact, even a seemingly insignificant deviation from the norm can be dangerous, both for people and for pets.

Heat and sound insulation of walls should be done based on the characteristics of the material. After all, you need to know what thickness of the material will be needed. In the photo below you can find out the thermal insulation index for the most used materials.

A successful installation of a warm roof requires a special understanding of the purpose and properties of all materials used. A constructive approach to their choice, special knowledge and skills are important. If the homeowner has a clear idea of how to arrange a "roofing cake" on the roof country house, then he will not only be able to build a roof with high quality, but also create comfortable conditions to live in the house for a long period of time.

When creating a warm roof, it is necessary to take into account not only the climate of the region, but also the shape of the roof, the angle of inclination of the structure, the strength of the floors, etc. Creating a “roofing cake”, that is, a warm roof, requires a number of layers, as shown in the figure (PICTURE one). The design should include vapor barrier and waterproofing, ventilation gap, lathing, rafters, as well as roofing.

When choosing a heater, you can opt for mineral wool, expanded clay, basalt slabs, glass wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam. To facilitate the installation of the structure, you can choose the width of the slab, which corresponds to the gap between the two rafters. For residential attic spaces, the roof is insulated not only from the outside, but also from the inside. Otherwise, it is not necessary to do so.

Ways to insulate roofs of various shapes

Shed roofs are supported by two parallel walls of the building, supporting an inclined surface. Two pitched roofs may be in the shape of a regular rectangle. If the roof is hipped, its slope has the shape of an isosceles triangle. This requirement implies that in most cases the elements of roofing have rectangular shape. This facilitates the installation of thermal insulation, eliminating the possible appearance of an unclosed wedge, which will need to be cut and fitted to close. roofing material. This method is incorrect, since the installation of a warm roof requires sufficient material and time resources. Eventually appearance buildings will be damaged.

For isosceles slopes hip roof requires the use of cutting material for the roof according to one template or two. For a good economy of materials, you can use their halves, laying these elements on opposite sides of the slopes. Individual cutting of roofing materials for two slopes will be needed when, by mistake or due to negligence, the roof slopes will be at different angles of inclination. This will entail an increase in the time to complete the work twice, but not saving materials.

Warm roofing technology

Required materials and tools and the procedure for performing work

In the process of installing the roof of a wooden house, you will need:

axe;
level;
plumb;
roulette;
a hammer;
plywood;
film;
construction stapler.

The work is carried out in the following order:

The waterproofing layer is attached to the bars of the counter-lattice with the help of brackets, taking into account its sagging.
The insulation is laid in such a way that there are no gaps between the rafters.
If necessary, a second layer of insulation is laid in such a way that the seams of the two layers cannot coincide.
The vapor barrier film is fixed with a stapler to the crate.
The film is overlapped, which is fixed with adhesive tape.

It should be remembered that a warm roof is mounted by hand so that there is little space between the three layers so that condensation does not occur.

The resulting "pie" is closed with plywood.

How to avoid trouble when installing a roof

A well-insulated roof must have an appropriate appearance, for which the width, length, height and diagonal of the building are measured. During the measurement process, various unpleasant things can be detected that are an obstacle to the roofing. For example, in the presence of significant differences, the structure has acquired the shape of a rhombus or a trapezoid, therefore, the usual negligence of carpenters or masons can interfere with the quality of a warm roof.

Uncoordinated work by carpenters can leave an error of 1 cm on opposite sides of the masonry, which will cause another error of 1 mm in the masonry joint. In this case, the differences per 1 m of the height of the walls will reach 1 cm, which will make them noticeable. If the insulated roof is installed by amateurs, then the difference in error will be greater.

To facilitate the thermal insulation of the roof, it is necessary to eliminate wall defects in a timely manner. The rafter system should be mounted, observing the horizontal slope and ridge of the roof. If the integrity of the “roofing pie” is violated, “cold bridges” appear in a certain place, so it is necessary to properly lay the rafters and avoid gaps between them.

Once you've built a solid roof, you need to make sure it's doing its job of protecting your home from the elements, and consider insulating it, as most heat leaks occur through the roof. By the way, the process of thermal insulation of the roof is in second place in importance after the creation of the tightness of the coating. With all the variety of roof structures, the process of its insulation is carried out according to similar principles. And how exactly - now you will find out!

The essence of roof insulation

The essence of roof insulation

The roof is the weakest element in the construction of a residential building in terms of heat loss. The direction of heat flows upwards causes much higher heat leakage compared to walls and basements. Heat losses through an uninsulated roof often reach 30% of all losses in low-rise buildings. With rising heating and energy costs, there are tangible benefits from minimizing these losses.

The lack of thermal insulation or improper installation of insulation provokes the formation of condensate on the inner surface, which entails a violation of the microclimate in the house, the formation of fungus and mold. In this case, the roof will be heated by heat flows that come from the attic of the building, so in winter the snow that has settled on the roof quickly melts, flowing down the slope and turning into ice and icicles, as well as deforming the roof and breaking the waterproofing.

One of the important factors that affect such indicators is the humidity and temperature conditions, the maintenance of which is provided by specific heat-insulating materials. To insulate the roof, materials and methods of thermal insulation are used that provide the highest quality of heat preservation in the house in accordance with established building codes. The insulation must have low water permeability and a certain vapor permeability - the ability to pass steam, allowing the roof to "breathe".

In the construction of private houses, the construction of cold attics was traditionally used, when the main insulation was carried out along the surface of the floors, i.e. across the attic floor. This approach was associated with the disadvantage thermal insulation material, which could be laid on truss structures. The modern approach allows you to insulate the under-roof space along the truss structures themselves, while creating a full-fledged attic and increasing minimal cost living space.

Roof insulation materials

Particular attention should be paid to the choice of insulation. To insulate the roof, materials are used that differ in terms of thermal conductivity, vapor permeability, moisture repellency and mechanical characteristics, durability, resistance to fire, ease of use and cost. When buying thermal insulation material for roof insulation, you need to pay attention to the following criteria:

Compliance of the material with building codes and environmental standards.
Scope of material use - choose material exclusively for roofing.
Speed and ease of installation - insulation should not require large labor costs and cause difficulties in work.
The useful life of the selected coating.
Water-repellent properties - the insulation material should not absorb moisture, as its thermal conductivity will decrease significantly.
Vapor barrier characteristics - it is better to choose a thermal insulation material with one side covered with foil.

It is necessary to select the insulation material so that its thickness ensures the energy loss of the building, in accordance with the requirements of SNiP, therefore it should be determined based on the thermal conductivity of a certain material. If the thickness of the truss structures is not enough to organize appropriate insulation, then to solve this issue, it is necessary to use a more efficient insulation with a low level of thermal conductivity.

The main characteristic of heaters is the average density. Thermal insulation materials are divided by density into dense, medium, light and very light. High-density materials will not always provide high thermal insulation performance, but they are able to withstand more significant mechanical loads and create increased loads on the supporting structures of the insulated house. The density of the insulation is 20 - 200 kilograms per cubic meter. Let's look at the main types of heaters:

Fiberglass and glass wool. The material has a high level of sound absorption and low weight. The price of fiberglass roof insulation is relatively low. However, according to their thermal insulation characteristics glass wool is not inferior to other heaters.
Mineral and basalt wool. Insulation is produced on the basis of rock fibers; it consists of ready-made rolls or slabs of various sizes. Depending on the desired result, it is customary to lay out the insulation in one or a couple of layers. The material has low hygroscopicity, provides a high level of sound insulation and does not burn. In the manufacture of mineral wool insulation, it undergoes toxicological and radiological testing.
Extruded polystyrene foam and polystyrene. These materials are light in processing, have a small weight, are characterized by minimal thermal conductivity, and are not exposed to the harmful effects of moisture. Similar thermal insulation methods differ from each other only in thermophysical characteristics: expanded polystyrene (foam) is airtight, and polystyrene has high air permeability. They are both combustible, but this problem can be easily solved with a flame retardant layer and flame retardant impregnation.
Penofol. This material is polyethylene foam that is covered with aluminum foil. Its main features are low thermal conductivity and moisture absorption, as well as a small thickness, which saves space.

Preparing for the installation of thermal insulation

At the second stage preparatory work before fixing the thermal insulation material, it is necessary to check the electrical wiring for serviceability. Repair its damaged parts, replace worn wires, ring switches, carefully check all connectors, joints, fasteners and joints. If the electrical wiring is completely unsuitable, it should be redone.

Options for arranging thermal insulation of the roof

There are many methods of thermal insulation of the roof in construction practice. Which method to use in each case will depend on the complexity of the roof structure and the material used to insulate it. Let's look at them in more detail.

Laying thermal insulation material

There are several methods for laying thermal insulation material:

Roll method. When creating thermal insulation, it is customary to use rolls with a substrate that protrudes on the sides. A foil insulation with a polymer filler and a substrate stands out from the rolled heat-insulating materials. High level thermal insulation is achievable due to the low density - 15 - 20 kg / cu. meter.
Stuffed way. To do this, stretch a metal mesh with cells that have dimensions of 15 by 15 millimeters, and fix with pins, which are staggered. Then carry out layer-by-layer backfilling with material.
Sleepy way. Such thermal insulation of the roof is used in the presence of a difference in the intervals between the rafter beams. The backfill material is fibrous or granular vermiculite, foam glass or perlite sand. The heating process provokes an increase in the volume of vermiculite by approximately 6-8 times. Backfill is an ideal way to insulate non-standard roofs. But this method should not be used in a ventilated attic in order to avoid its weathering.
Sheet insulation. The materials are mineral fiber mats, polystyrene or polyurethane plates. Sheet heat insulator is attached directly to the roof rafters. The cost of its transportation and installation, due to its low weight, is much lower when compared with other methods of thermal insulation.

Blow method. Within the framework of this technique, a mass of fibrous polymer is used as a material, which is fed by blowing through an elastic pipeline. This method is not suitable for attics under roofs of complex shape. For blown insulation, it is customary to use a material made on the basis of pure ecological position cellulose fibers.
Sprayed thermal insulation. Spraying can be carried out on any surface. Polyurethane foam is applied to all elements from the inside of the roof, it expands and fills all cracks and cavities with high quality. There is no need for additional fastening, because there will be no seam. The material is considered resistant to decay and exposure to harmful microorganisms, has a long service life.

Internal and external insulation

Internal insulation- this is the most popular thermal insulation option, which is suitable for pitched and flat roofs. The internal insulation of the roof is carried out according to the following technology: first, the inner lining of the room is laid, on top of it - a vapor barrier, then - a heat-insulating material, after that - wind and waterproofing.

The final thermal insulation layer is your chosen roofing material. Remember that the insulation must have the required width and be adapted to certain climatic conditions. But the main thing at the same time is to ensure that the material does not make the roof heavier, and to provide for the gaps that are required to remove moisture from the structure.

External roof insulation is carried out on the basis of flat roofs using rigid slabs, which are therefore pressed against concrete slabs or pebbles. When organizing external thermal insulation, it is very important to calculate the strength of the roof in order to protect against roof collapse.

Insulation of pitched and flat roofs

The choice of thermal insulation technique pitched roof carried out, depending on the characteristics of the building. If the house is in operation, and you do not provide for the dismantling of the roofing material, the main or additional roof insulation must be carried out along the inside of the roof - directly along the truss systems.

If the building is only in the process of being erected, and you have not yet installed the roofing material, then it is worth insulating the outer side of the pitched roof structures, and the internal crate will act as a support for the heat-insulating material. For roof insulation, you can choose one or two layers of thermal insulation. But at the same time, it is worth using only a heater that has the same density.

It is customary to insulate pitched roofs on rafters with heat-insulating materials, which are characterized by low density (25–50 kilograms per cubic meter), designed exclusively for atmospheric effects and temperature. Remember that materials should not create a large load on the structure.

When building a new house for the thermal insulation of a flat roof, it is recommended to use a two-layer insulation method. The bottom layer is required for thermal protection, and the top layer is needed to distribute loads to the entire structure. The single-layer method is usually used exclusively for the repair and reconstruction of old roofs.

For thermal insulation of flat roofs, it is necessary to use dense insulation, which must withstand significant loads from snow and water, since precipitation often accumulates on such roofs. flat roofs from corrugated board it is necessary to insulate with mineral wool, basalt and polystyrene foam plates, which have a density of about 220 kilograms per cubic meter. The roof on a reinforced concrete slab is insulated with denser materials, for example, PPZh-200 slabs.

Do-it-yourself roof insulation device

Roof thermal insulation is a multilayer system consisting of an inner vapor-tight layer, insulation and an upper membrane material, which is characterized by one-sided moisture permeability. A similar design is called a "roofing pie."

Manufacturers of modern building materials consumers are offered a ready-made “pie”, but you can also create it yourself at the proper level of quality. The first layer is a moisture-proof material that protects the insulation layer from excessive moisture that comes from the room. Usually foil, polyethylene and other materials are used.

The material is laid on the inside of the supporting elements without gaps in a single layer, the joints are glued with sealant and fixed with planks to wooden structures using galvanized nails or a construction stapler. If it is impossible to lay the material in one layer, overlaps must be created, which should be more than 100 millimeters.

The vapor barrier top layer is necessary to ensure the passage of moisture to the outside and prevent it from getting inside to the layer of thermal insulation material. Laying of heat-insulating material is carried out directly on the vapor barrier material. At the same time, it must be precisely cut to size, since its crushing is not allowed.

You will be able to achieve the planned and calculated efficiency of the thermal insulation of a soft roof only if you prevent the formation of cold bridges when laying the insulation. To do this, the roofing material must be laid without interruption by other structural elements. There should be no planes and depressions in the heat-insulating layer for the passage of air.

Thus, only high-quality installation of thermal insulation can save energy resources, recreate the most comfortable microclimate in the house. Therefore, it is not recommended to save on it, you must strictly follow the technology in order to avoid such fatal mistakes as the use of material of inappropriate width, installation of insulation of small thickness. Also remember that the maximum possible effect of the roof insulation procedure can be achieved only with an integrated approach to the thermal insulation of the house.

How to insulate the roof of a wooden building

When the rafter system is already exposed, fixed, it is much easier to insulate the slopes from above, and not from the inside.

What needs to be done: a crate is stuffed on the underside of the rafters along the length of the roof. You can buy made from a narrow, thin edged board or from wooden block. It is possible to use rails.

This crate in continuation construction works will be used to secure the interior trim. After fixing the above-mentioned bars, the insulation itself is laid directly on top of them in the form of plates cut to the width of the rafters or rolled.

It is desirable that the insulation be somewhat smaller than the width of the rafters, then it becomes possible to form an air gap between the insulation and the hydro-vapor barrier, which will prevent moisture from entering the “pie” from the inside.

When the insulation is laid, a hydro-vapor barrier is pulled onto the rafters of the house. Its tension is carried out as follows: the roll is unwound from left to right, starting from the bottom row. The edges of the film are bent under the eaves for subsequent moisture removal and fixed with staples.

Sagging is allowed no more than 20 mm, but it is not recommended to drag the film. This can lead to rupture and subsequent loss of waterproofing properties. Such a device makes it possible to ventilate the heat-insulating layer of the roof from the inside.

The overlaps of the rows must exceed 100 mm inclusive, they are sealed with self-adhesive tape. Having fixed the film on the rafters of the house with the help of a stapler and staples, a counter-rail is stuffed onto each rafter. It should be more than 20 mm in height inclusive and in width be equal to the thickness of the rafter.

After fixing the counter-rail with nails, the roof lathing is stuffed onto it, the technology of which depends on the type of roof. This method is good in that it greatly facilitates the work with thermal insulation, since there is no need to find the performer under the insulation and fasten the material from the inside.

The correct execution of such a “pie” guarantees high-quality ventilation of the entire system, which will significantly increase its service life and prevent possible rotting of the wooden parts of the house.

materials

Materials such as polyethylene or roofing material are quite applicable as a hydrovapor barrier. But it is better to use specially designed films or membranes for this purpose.

They have all the necessary properties and are made for this purpose. Warming, as a rule, is represented by mineral, eco- or glass wool of various densities, produced both in the form of plates and in the form of rolled rolls. The following options may apply:

polyurethane;
polystyrene foam;
foam insulation, usually made in the form of sheets.

When laying any type of slabs one on top of the other, the sheets should be placed in such a way that the displacement of their joints relative to each other is at least 30 cm. This is done in order to minimize the freezing points of the roof insulation. If possible, all wooden parts truss system it is desirable to treat roofs and battens with an antiseptic liquid, in order to avoid the subsequent appearance of all kinds of fungus and mold from the inside.

This kind of work can also be done from the inside. This will introduce certain difficulties in fixing the thermal insulation. To minimize them, the sheets should be cut in such a way that their size is slightly larger than the distance between the rafters. Thus, the insulation will be sufficiently tightly reinforced between them. An increase in size by more than 1.5 cm is unacceptable - subsequently, an excess of material can lead to swelling and subsequent sagging.

But there are not only wooden structures that need insulation. The same actions are necessary for concrete floors.

How to insulate a roof made of reinforced concrete slabs

First of all, the surface of such a roof must be completely dust-free, after which it is smeared with special mastic, on which a layer of hydrovapor barrier is rolled out. Polyethylene is laid with an overlap of rows of at least 100 mm, and is also sealed with self-adhesive tape. If the house has side cornices, then the film is stretched in such a way as to cover their side and end parts. Upon completion of this stage, the actual insulation is performed.

It is usually made from loose materials, such as expanded clay (therefore, this type of work cannot be carried out from the inside), poured on top of a waterproofing layer with a slight slope to prevent moisture from accumulating on a flat roof. After leveling the insulation, sheets of cement-bonded particle board are laid on top of it one on top of the other, with an offset of at least 50 cm relative to each other.

There is no need to fasten these sheets to the concrete surface of the roof, it is enough to fasten the layers together with self-tapping screws. It turns out a one-piece structure, clinging to the thermal insulation with its weight. Option for the warm season: in the summer, instead of laying sheets, the expanded clay layer is covered with a sand-concrete screed.

After making a dry or cement screed, its surface (after drying) is covered with several layers of roofing material or similar materials. There can be up to four such layers, depending on the quality and thickness of the material. Each subsequent waterproofing material is rolled out perpendicular to the previous one, and carefully, over the entire area, warms up gas burner. This is done to stick the rows of material to each other from the inside. And the final one should differ from the previous ones in greater strength and waterproofing properties.

To increase the thermal insulation properties of the roof, the structure can be supplemented with another row of insulation. In this case, there is no need for a first layer of waterproofing film. It will be enough after dedusting to waterproof the coating of the house with mastic. After that, plates of extruded polystyrene foam are laid on the surface. They can be attracted to the plane of the roof with the help of "fungi", or you can not attract it, since it will subsequently be pressed with expanded clay and a dry screed. They are placed in two layers with an offset of ½ of the plate, followed by the above layer of expanded clay. All further operations are performed in accordance with the previous description.

The latter method of thermal insulation of the roof will slightly increase financial costs, but significantly improve functionality due to the tight fit of polystyrene foam to the smooth concrete surface of the house.

Design features of the roofing pie

The most common way to insulate a roof that you can do yourself is a "Canadian sandwich" or a roofing pie. This technology is a complex of several layers: vapor barrier, mineral wool(or equivalent), wind and hydro barrier, roofing and ventilation gap. If the work is done by hand, and not by a specialist, then it is important to remember that you need to follow the process and sequence of laying materials to avoid leaks in the roof. This will increase the life of the roof, as well as retain moisture and retain heat.

To prevent roof leaks, moisture must be prevented from entering the structural elements roofs. In this case, it is necessary to create certain conditions under which condensation will not form. To do this, the roof has the following elements of roofing insulation: a hydrobarrier or wind and moisture protection (perforated film), vapor barrier, ventilation gaps between the wind and moisture protection and thermal insulation, as well as between the roofing and wind and moisture protection. It is important to ensure air circulation in the direction from the bottom up. The insulation technology is implemented in the directional removal of moisture that passes through the vapor barrier and evaporates from the upper surface of the insulation, and then goes into the ventilation gap between the roof and the hydro barrier. It is worth knowing that mineral wool and basalt insulation should always be dry, as raw heat-insulating boards lose their insulating properties, and heat loss can be up to 60%.

Roof preparation

When insulating the roof with your own hands, first of all, you need to draw up a work plan and decide on thermal insulation materials. Any roof, regardless of the type of construction, consists of an external and internal part. The roof from the outside (from the street) is called the roof, and the inside is made up of a frame of rafters and floor slabs. In order for the roof to be warm and last for a long time, before starting work, if necessary, it is necessary to carry out repair work, get rid of moisture and all its manifestations on the roof structure: rust, fungus or mold. In this case, the metal parts are cleaned with a metal brush and coated with anti-corrosion agents, and areas affected by mold or fungus are treated with antiseptic compounds.

Regardless of the type of roof, in the absence of insulation, the heat loss of a house can be 25%. Based on this, it is important to choose a suitable thermal insulation material. To simplify the installation of insulation with your own hands, the width of the plates should correspond to the distance between the rafters. Otherwise, cold zones will form in unfilled areas, which will lead to a decrease in the quality of the insulation structure. If you use roll insulation (instead of slab insulation), then you can set any width by cutting the roll with a conventional wood saw. This will be true if the distance between the rafters is different. To keep the roof warm, today there is a wide selection of heaters. Each of them has its pros and cons:

Glass wool - relatively cheap, easy to install, has good thermal insulation characteristics. It must be used in conjunction with waterproofing, as it can lose up to 60% of its thermal insulation properties when wet. It is not a favorable environment for the life of rodents and insects.
Mineral wool - similar in characteristics to glass wool, but has a long service life (up to 50 years). It is very convenient for do-it-yourself installation, as it is available in rolls or in the form of plates.
Basalt slabs - the main advantage of this insulation is high fire resistance. When wet, it loses its thermal insulation properties, therefore, like other fibrous insulation, it should be protected from moisture.
Styrofoam is one of the cheapest, but no less effective heaters. The variety of slab sizes allows it to be used for any roof construction. The disadvantage is the fragility of the plates, so you need to be careful during installation. In this case, the roof can become a habitat for rodents when using foam as a heater.
Expanded clay - the main advantage is the environmental friendliness and fire resistance of the material. At the same time, it is biologically resistant. But the application technology mainly applies to horizontal surfaces (roof floors, ceilings), which limits its application. It is also heavier than mineral wool.
Polyurethane foam is a liquid insulation with a rather low thermal conductivity. It is applied by spraying onto the prepared waterproofing layer. Suitable in cases where you need to quickly carry out warming measures.

Roof insulation process

The roof can be pitched or flat. The standard roof is divided into the following types: hipped, single-fold, gable, mansard and others. The roof itself consists of: roofing (corrugated board, tiles, slate) and internal supports. If the roof is insulated during the construction process, then the insulation technology is selected at the design stage of the entire building and is general scheme house project. But most often, insulation is carried out when the house is already standing. The method of insulation does not depend on the material from which the house is built. Roofing made of metal, stone or wooden structure insulated using the same technology.

Insulation is selected depending on the operating conditions. The selected material must be able to withstand temperature changes in the area, changes in humidity and possible mechanical stress. Thermal insulation depends on the purpose, application and use of the attic at home. If the roof will act as a living space, then it should be insulated both from the outside and from the inside. If as non-residential, then it is not necessary to insulate inside. If there are communication lines on the roof, it is necessary, before starting work on insulation, to check them for serviceability so that in the future this does not lead to fire or leakage behind the insulation layer.

Features of insulation of pitched and flat roofs

When the building is in operation, internal work is carried out to insulate the roof. The method of insulation from the inside is similar to the insulation of a ventilated facade. The difference lies only in the method of installation of the outer finishing material and a heater. When doing work with your own hands, this method is the most optimal. The hydrobarrier is installed between the rafters and the roof and is attached using a construction stapler. After that, the installation of the thermal insulation layer begins. When using mineral wool, the thickness of the insulation must correspond to the thickness of the rafters. Laying of heat-insulating plates is carried out from the bottom of the roof slope and fastened with stuffed rails to the rafters or with the help of a nylon cord. Mineral wool sheets are laid without large gaps. The next step is to attach the vapor barrier. It is good to use perforated membrane construction film for this.

The technology for insulating a flat roof is slightly different from insulating a pitched roof, since the insulation takes place both outside and inside. This method is more resource-intensive physically and financially. To reduce costs, you can insulate a flat roof from the outside for the first winter, and if this is not enough, then proceed with the insulation from the inside. For outdoor use, it is recommended to use basalt wool. It is ideal for roof insulation from the outside due to its characteristics (low thermal conductivity, durability, high resistance to mechanical stress, fire resistance).

A warm and dry roof is the key to a comfortable and carefree living for all residents of the house. And it is worth remembering that the insulation not only retains heat in cold winters, but also keeps heat out of the house in hot summers.

Warm and cold roof

The two existing types of metal roofing - warm and cold - represent two very different approaches to the installation process. Consider the features of each of them.

The device of a warm roof from a metal tile

A warm roof is a type of gable roof with an insulated attic. When installing a warm roof, it is important to remember that condensation often forms on the inside of the metal tile, and before laying the insulation, it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing material. We recommend using membranes for this, which allow steam to pass through and remove all excess liquid to the outside.

It is possible to use waterproof films as waterproofing, while it is important that the film is not stretched, but sags to drain the accumulated liquid.

After the membrane we lay the insulation. Most often, for roof insulation, such insulation material as basalt wool, supplied in mats, is used. It is important to lay the insulation very carefully, overlapping the joints of the first row with the second.

Cold roof device

A feature of a cold roof made of metal is the fact that only the attic is insulated, while the roof slopes remain without insulation and are ventilated.

Roofing pie construction

The technology of metal roofing, regardless of the type chosen and the allowable variations within them, consists of a set of elements that form in a certain sequence:

Rafter;
waterproofing material;
insulation;
Lathing and counter lathing;
Ventilation holes;
ridge beam
Endova (inner corner of the slope);
Frontal board or spillway gutter.

Let's consider the device of a roof from a metal tile and some moments of technology separately.

Features of the crate when using metal tiles

When stuffing the crate, we recommend using a beam with a section of 50 mm, and along the eaves, use boards of 50/100 mm. It is important that when creating a warm roof on top of the waterproofing material, it is necessary to fill another layer of the crate. The bars are nailed along the rafters, from the roof ridge down. Then, horizontally attach another row of beams to them, the fastening step of which is calculated depending on the type of metal tile used and can vary from 60 to 90 cm.

IMPORTANT: the device of the roof ridge requires special attention. When creating a roof ridge from a metal tile, the top of the roof must be strengthened as much as possible by stuffing a couple of boards on each side of the ridge.

Creating ventilation holes

The crate acts not only as a basis for fastening the roof, but also creates ventilation ducts. The air flows circulating through these channels create the necessary gap between the waterproofing and the roof itself.

Subtleties in the installation of the valley

If the design of the roof assumes the presence of internal corners of the slope, then their design is carried out using a valley from the ridge and down to the slope. The valley installation technology includes a number of important points, failure to comply with which is fraught with roof leaks:

An additional board should be mounted to each valley;
The overlap of additional boards must be at least 20 cm;
It is recommended to cut the bottom line of the valley below the eaves line and make a flanging;
An additional seal should be installed under the flanging.
From above, to create a neat appearance, the valley boards are closed with decorative overlays, in the installation of which it is also worth following certain rules: installation from the bottom up and observing an overlap of 10 cm. Careful work with self-tapping screws requires special attention, when installing them on a decorative strip it is important not to damage it.

Drain organization

If you plan to equip the roof with a drain, then cornice boards should be used to reinforce the slope. They are laid along the overhangs in the grooves made in advance in the rafters. It is to these boards that hooks should be attached to fix the gutter, correlating their step with the step of the truss system.

If the organization of an organized drain is not included in your plans, then a frontal board, which is attached to the ends of the rafters, is used to fasten the roofing elements along the edges of the roof. Such an end plate serves not only decorative element, but also prevents the metal tile from rattling during strong winds.

Common mistakes when installing a metal roof on your own

When creating a roof from a metal tile with your own hands, errors that are typical for different cases often occur. It is very important to pay close attention when installing a roof:

In the presence of skylights;
In the case of dormer windows;
If there are pipes below the ridge line.

Sheets of metal in these cases often form holes along the edge of the notch. The use of two single-module sheets for each of the listed elements will help to avoid this.

Instructions for bypassing pipes when installing metal tiles

Let us consider in more detail the algorithm of actions if it is necessary to bypass the pipe. Before proceeding with the installation of roofing material around the pipe, its surface must be prepared.

The preparatory stage includes:

Complete plastering of the pipe surface;
Plant waterproofing material on the sides;
Installing a drainage system on a slope at a distance of no more than 80 cm from the pipe;
Installation of an additional crate above the pipe.
When installing the roof around the pipe, it is important to follow the correct order of installation of aprons: first the bottom and side, then the top.

Sheets of metal tiles that will be laid on both sides of the pipe must be cut above the stamp line, but at a distance of no more than 15 cm from the pipe itself to this line. It is also necessary to measure the side of the apron that lies on the slope. It is important to cover the nearest wave crest with an apron.

Aprons are fastened with self-tapping screws with the obligatory use of sealant and sealing material.

If the house has a round pipe, then it is dangerous to rely on one's own strength when bypassing it. Roof installation around round pipe- a rather complex and verified enterprise. In this case, we advise you to seek help from specialists.

Installation of metal tiles: basic rules

Mounting sheets of metal tiles is a fairly simple and pleasant process, however, it is important not to forget about following a number of rules:

Walking on the metal tile should be in soft shoes, without stepping on the stiffeners;
Before fixing the sheet, it is important to make sure that it is horizontal;
First, you need to temporarily fix and place 3-4 sheets next to each other and, making sure that their fastening is even, fasten them together and to the crate;
The bottom edge of the sheets should protrude 5 cm from the edge of the eaves;
It is not difficult to correctly cover the roof with roofing material - at the attachment points, the sheet must be in contact with the boards of the crate. Such fastening will help to avoid unnecessary gaps and subsequently leaks.

The device of a roof made of metal contains many nuances, which are very important to consider. Only if all installation rules are followed, a covered roof will please you with an impeccable and long-term service, keeping your home warm and dry in any weather.

K category: roofs

Roof insulation device

As a rule, in houses with attic roofs, the roof is the protection of the building from atmospheric influences, attic space are not used as residential and do not require for operation in winter time create positive temperatures in them. The only exceptions are houses with attics, where the entire volume of the attic is insulated and it is used as ordinary living quarters. In houses with cold attic roofs, only the attic floor, which is the floor of the attic and the ceiling of residential premises, is insulated. If the attic or attic is used as residential (or working) “premises, then heat-insulating material is laid along the roof slopes.

Houses with flat roofs, without attics, or with pitched roofs, where living or office spaces are located directly under the roof (the so-called combined roofs), must have thermally insulated roofs in order to prevent too much heat loss, because. through the ceilings, the room can lose up to 50% of heat.

Attic flooring (attic floors) are insulated from the inside of the attic. Insulating slopes is more difficult. During new construction of a house, thermal insulation material can be laid either on top of the crate or between the rafter legs from the attic side. The first method is more reliable, in the second case your house will warm up faster and keep warm longer. If the house is in operation, then the first option is immediately excluded and only one option remains - insulation from the inside.

If a flat roof is insulated, then both methods of insulation are acceptable: both external and internal. However, the device external thermal insulation requires more professionalism from the roofer: the internal laying of thermal insulation, in which the insulation is glued to the ceiling, can be performed even by a worker who is not very highly qualified, even a beginner can do it.

Sometimes during thermal insulation work it may be necessary to insulate the water collector or water pipes installed or passing through the attic.

Laying thermal insulation materials (plates, rolls, loose insulation) does not require special skills. Rectangular or wedge-shaped mineral wool boards are easy to use, which are easy to fit and fit well together. When laying rolled and loose insulation, you need to know some professional secrets that allow you to speed up the work.

In accordance with GOST-16381-77, heat-insulating materials are classified according to the following main features: - shape and appearance; – structure; – type of feedstock; – average density; - rigidity; – thermal conductivity; - combustibility.

Unlike a number of other building materials, the brand of heat-insulating material is not set by strength, but by the average density, which is expressed in kg / m3 (r). According to this indicator, thermal insulation materials have the following grades: 15, 25, 35, 50, 75, 100, 125,150,175, 200, 250, 300, 350, 400, 450, 500. The grade of thermal insulation material represents the upper limit of its average density. (So, products of brand 100 can have p=75-100 kg/m3).

Per last years In our country, there is a sharp tightening of requirements for the thermal characteristics of fences, and this is not accidental. Energy is the greatest wealth of mankind and saving energy (electrical, thermal, etc.) is the key to the economic revival of the country.

According to Decree No. 18-81 of the Ministry of Construction of the Russian Federation of August 11, 1995, starting from September 1, 1995, design, and from June 1, 1996, new construction and reconstruction should be carried out in accordance with changes No. 3 SNiP 11-3-79 "Construction heating engineering". According to these standards, from 06/01/2000, the indicators of the calculated resistance to heat transfer increase by 1.5-1.8 times. These issues need to be given the most serious attention.

Thus, before installing or reconstructing the roof, the adequacy of the insulation layer accepted by the project or the existing insulation layer should be checked and, if necessary, their thickness should be increased.

Considering that the structures of the old roof usually have a height of about 150 mm, then if the roof is left on the same sheet, and the required ventilation gap between the roof and the insulation (at least 50 mm) cannot be increased in the upper direction, there is a margin for insulation in the gap with the beam no more than 100 mm. In this case, the insulation must be laid on the underside of the beams.

Considering also that attic spaces are low in themselves, the lower additional insulation of structures should be as thin as possible.

The minimum thickness of the thermal insulation material is 25 mm. For a thorough insulation of the room, it is better to use materials with a thickness of 100 mm.

When installing thermal insulation, it is also necessary to solve the issue of vapor barrier device. First of all, this concerns the insulation of slopes.

Vapor barrier is provided by: - a gap between the roofing and the heat-insulating layer; - the presence of a special vapor barrier layer (polyethylene film or foil). Some thermal insulation materials are finished on the inner surface with a foil base designed to provide a vapor barrier for the roof. Large difference in temperature outside the building and inside without the device ventilation holes in the roof and the vapor barrier layer can lead to the formation of dampness in and under the roof cladding. As a consequence of this - rotting of the supporting structures, condensation in the heat-insulating layer, smudges on the ceiling, etc., i.e. the process of premature destruction of the building.

The next element of the preparatory work is to check the condition of the electrical wiring laid in the attic. If wiring damage is found, all defects must be repaired immediately.

The thermal insulation device is started after checking the quality of the vapor barrier.

The technology of work depends on the location of the thermal insulation layer in relation to the coating slabs.

The sequence of operations when installing thermal insulation from lightweight bulk material (‘ expanded clay gravel, shungezite, pumice, etc.): making marks of the top of the thermal insulation on the parapets and lighthouse columns (Fig. 1, a); installation of lighthouse rails with a step of 3 ... 4 m and checking their position; preparation and submission of materials; distribution of bulk material into strips and compaction (Fig. 1, b).

When installing thermal insulation from mineral wool boards of increased rigidity on a synthetic binder, marks are made, boards are prepared, boards are fed and transported to the coating, boards are laid in a layer with gluing with mastic or fixing with plastic anchor buttons. It is possible to install an asphalt screed on mineral wool slabs in order to create an additional load and level the surface.

On fig. 2 shows a general view of the thermal insulation of mineral wool boards of increased rigidity on the slopes and adjoining the lantern.

Rice. 1. Making marks (a) and laying loose insulation (b): 1 - parapet; 2 - rail; 3 - insulation; 4 - beacon rail; 5.- solution or column

The roofer-insulator uses a trolley to bring the slabs to the workplace and then manually lays out the slabs over the ‘area, starting from the top point. First, on the site (L \u003d 10 ... 20 m2), the slabs are laid in the lower layer, and then in the upper one. The plates are tightly pressed against one another, the shells and chips are filled with crumbs. The plates are glued bituminous mastic, which is applied in strips 150 ... 200 mm wide with a step of 250. . . 300 mm.

The walls of the lanterns are also insulated with plates (Fig. 3, a).

The creation of longitudinal slopes to the water intake funnels in the grooves is carried out by laying an additional two layers of mineral wool slabs (Fig. 3.6). The roofer cuts sections of the slabs with a knife, creating smooth slopes to the water intake funnels. A leveling layer of asphalt mortar is laid on the slabs.

The most progressive technology for the device of intermediate layers in the coating is the rejection of leveling screeds. Metal profiled flooring is laid along the girders in such a way that both transverse and longitudinal slopes to the water intake funnels are simultaneously created.

Rice. 2. Two-layer thermal insulation of mineral-cotton slabs of increased rigidity on the slopes (a) and at the points of contact with the lantern (b): 1 - the top layer of the slabs: 2 - vapor barrier; 3-"lower layer of plates; 4 - walls of the lantern

Rice. Fig. 3. Insulation of the wall of the lantern (a) and the creation of iK slopes for the funnels (b): 1 - the top layer of thermal insulation; 2 - wall of the lantern; 3 - slabs of expanded polystyrene foam; 4 - additional layers of mineral wool slabs in the groove; 5 - .section with cut edges of the slabs

Next, using an electric screwdriver, plastic anchor buttons are installed (Fig. 4, d). The roofer puts a button on the working tip (Fig. 4, e), with a light blow drives it into the layers of the heat isoline and at the same time turns on the screwdriver, which is used to turn the self-drilling screw.

Rice. 7. Scheme of installation of plastic buttons-anchors

Combined coating, including reinforced concrete slabs, is performed in the following sequence:
- after the installation of vapor barrier (Fig. 6, a, b), roofers-insulators lay two layers of mineral wool boards (Fig. 6, c);
- cut out nests for the apron of water intake funnels with a knife (Fig. 6, d);
- install water intake funnels (Fig. 6. - it is possible to device, under the apron, one additional layer of glass roofing material with a size of 800X800 mm with gluing with hot mastic;
- glue the bottom layer of glass roofing material with hot bituminous mastic (Fig. 6, f);
- they drill nests in layers and reinforced concrete slabs and install plastic anchor buttons with a cotter pin (Fig. 6,g).

On fig. 7. showing technology system installation of anchor buttons and a detail of fastening layers of thermal insulation.

Calibrated hydrophobized aerated concrete slabs are laid dry on the vapor barrier. If the project provides for the creation of slopes to the water intake funnels, then before laying the slabs, loose material is poured with a layer of variable thickness (Fig. 8).

Rice. 8. Combined thermal insulation: 1 - insulation boards: 2 - loose insulation

In the case of using complex reinforced concrete slabs (with a layer of insulation), roofers first glue strips of rolled material onto the seams, then fill the joint with insulation and, if necessary, arrange a screed.

Roof insulation device

When building a house, it is important to create warmth and comfort, which helps a lot with a warm roof.

The creation of a heat-insulating layer is a very important stage, which, in addition to the main function, also performs soundproofing.

How to choose a heater

The technology itself, according to which the roof insulation will be carried out, depends on various climatic factors of a particular region.

So, the thickness of the material for insulation is calculated based on the most low scores temperatures in this area. To get the maximum effect, during the roof insulation with your own hands, it is recommended to combine materials.

When making a choice of those, it is necessary to take into account such nuances as:

the climate of the region;
the thickness of the walls of the structure;
the level of strength of the roof, as well as its shape and angle of inclination.

For warming mansard roof, it should be covered with good thermal insulation materials. But in order to create thermal protection for the attic floor, it is already possible to use cheaper bulk options in the form of sawdust or expanded clay. At the same time, it is important to remember that proper thermal insulation of the roof will help to maintain a reliable state of the structure of the entire building for a longer time.

Roofing cake features

The most popular option for roof insulation, and at the same time very easy for self-construction, is considered the “Canadian sandwich”.

This technology involves the creation of a multilayer coating. The arrangement of such a roof does not require the involvement of specialists, the main thing is to observe correct sequence laying all layers.

It is important to prevent moisture from entering the insulation. To do this, it is necessary to create conditions under which condensate will not appear. To accomplish this, just such elements as wind and moisture protection, vapor barrier, hydrobarrier, as well as the creation of small gaps between these layers for ventilation are needed.

You also need to create air circulation in the gaps from the bottom to the top. Due to this, all the resulting moisture will not fall on the heat-insulating layer, as it will evaporate and be removed due to ventilation in the gaps.

This is important to do, since mineral wool or any other similar insulation must always be kept dry so as not to lose its properties.

Roof preparation

First of all, for the work it is necessary to draw up a clear work plan, as well as select the materials that will be used.

Any roof, regardless of its type, has several parts, external and internal. So, its outer part is directly the roof, and the inner part consists of floor slabs, as well as a frame of rafters.

In order for the roof to serve for a long time and provide high-quality insulation, it is necessary to first carry out certain preparatory work.

First of all, you need to get rid of moisture, as well as any other negative elements on its design, such as rust, mold and even fungus. To do this, the surfaces are cleaned with a metal brush, after which it must be coated with anti-corrosion agents.

Note: those sections of the roof and walls that were affected by mold or fungus must also be treated with antiseptics.

Overview of heaters

Regardless of the type of roof in the house, if it has not been insulated, the house will lose on average up to a quarter of the heat generated. Therefore, you need to wisely approach the choice of thermal insulation material.

To simplify installation, it is better to choose plates that correspond to the existing distance between the rafters. Otherwise, areas will be formed through which cold will pass, which will significantly reduce the quality of insulation.

In the case of using rolled heaters, their width must also be selected based on the distance between the rafters.

In total, the insulation can be chosen from a large number of options, each of which has its own positive and negative sides:

. This material is relatively cheap and very easy to install. It has excellent thermal insulation properties. However, glass wool should only be used together with some kind of waterproofing, since if moisture gets on it, it loses most of its insulating properties.
. It has almost identical properties as glass wool, but its service life is much longer and is almost 50 years.
. This material is highly resistant to fire. However, similarly with glass wool, it loses its properties if it gets wet.
. It is one of the most affordable heaters, but it is very effective. It is produced in the form of plates of different sizes, which makes it possible to use it for arranging almost any type of roof. The main disadvantages of this material are its fragility, as well as susceptibility to rodent habitation.
. Its main advantages are environmental friendliness, as well as fire resistance. Besides, given material has resistance to various biological influences. However, its use is possible only on horizontal surfaces, due to its shape. At the same time, expanded clay has more weight than mineral wool.
Polyurethane foam. It is a liquid insulation with very low thermal conductivity. It is applied by spraying on pre-prepared waterproofing. Indispensable for quick and easy thermal insulation. (Read about roof insulation with polyurethane foam).

Operating procedure

The insulation technology of the “Pie” type will be the same regardless of the type of building. In this case, all work should be done after the roof has been made and roofing materials have been laid on it.

All work is carried out from within:

First, waterproofing is laid in one layer. It must be fixed to the crate to the bars, using brackets for this. The material may sag a little, but not more than 10 cm.
Next, the heater is installed. In this case, there should be no gaps between it and the rafters.
If necessary (if the weather in the region is very severe), you can lay another layer of insulation. At the same time, its seams should not be next to the seams of the first.
Now the insulation needs to be covered with a vapor barrier film, for this it can be fixed to the crate using a stapler. In this case, the sheets must be overlapped and connected with construction tape.
There should be a certain distance between each layer of such a cake so that moisture does not linger in the roof.
From the inside, such insulation must be covered with plywood sheets, and if it is used as a living space, it can be upholstered with a decorative coating.

How to avoid mistakes

Any well-insulated roof should also have the right appearance. To achieve this, you need to accurately measure in advance all the indicators of the structure from the width and length to its height, as well as the diagonal.

Usually, in this case, unpleasant moments are revealed that prevent the creation of the correct roof. This may be a big difference between the sides of the house or in the distance between the lags, due to which the building has received an irregular shape.

Therefore, to ensure proper thermal insulation roofs, it is necessary to eliminate various structural defects in time. It is necessary to carry out the installation of the rafter system only after the evenness of the slope, as well as the roof ridge, has been achieved.

If this is not done, then in the future, so-called cold bridges will appear in the “roofing cake”, through which heat will leave the house. They are areas where the integrity of the insulation is broken.

It's important to know: when a lot of icicles begin to form on the roof in winter, this will mean that there are gaps in the insulation of the building, due to which the roof is heated warm air and the snow melts on it. To eliminate this, you need to additionally insulate the roof with felt.

Dry, and most importantly, a warm roof is the key to a comfortable and cozy atmosphere in the house. At the same time, the insulation does not only keep the house warm in winter, but also allows you to keep cool inside it in the heat.

Watch the video in which the specialist explains in detail the nuances of warming the roof of the house:

To decide how to choose a roof insulation, which one is better to buy, you need to familiarize yourself with the types of insulation and evaluate the advantages and disadvantages of each of them. No matter what the roofing will be: tiles, slate or other material, high-quality thermal insulation allows you to reduce heating costs and reduce heat loss.

High-quality thermal insulation reduces heating costs and reduces heat loss.

Types of insulation for the roof

There is a wide choice of materials for thermal insulation of a roof. Each of them has advantages and disadvantages that you need to keep in mind when choosing a roofing insulation. Most popular on this moment are:

polystyrene (polystyrene foam);
foamed glass;
basalt wool;
cellulose;
foam concrete.

There are other types of insulation, among them you can choose the most suitable for a particular case. It is worth considering in more detail the most popular types of materials.

The fact that there is a need to spend money on additional home insulation that meets modern thermal protection requirements can be seen by looking at the comparative results of heat loss calculations. The correct thermal insulation device (taken as an example) of a typical two-story house with attic with total area 205 m², insulated in accordance with old and modern standards, made it possible to halve the required power of the heating system, before insulation it is 30 kW, and after the house has been insulated, the required power does not exceed 15 kW. So the conclusion is clear.

There are three options for the location of the heater:

1. Thermal insulation device on the inside of the wall.

Advantages:

The exterior finish of the house is completely preserved;
Ease of execution. Work is carried out in warm and dry conditions, and this can be done at any time of the year.
You can resort to the most modern technologies at the moment, using the widest choice of materials.

Flaws:

In any case, the loss of usable area is inevitable. Moreover, the greater the thermal conductivity of the insulation, the greater the losses.
It is likely that the humidity of the supporting structure will increase. Through the insulation (usually a vapor-permeable material), water vapor passes unhindered, and then begins to accumulate either in the thickness of the wall, or at the border "cold wall - insulation". At the same time, the insulation delays the flow of heat from the room into the wall and thus lowers its temperature, which further aggravates the waterlogging of the structure.
That is, if, for one reason or another, only possible option Insulation will be the placement of insulation from the inside, then it will be necessary to take fairly strict structural measures to protect the wall from moisture - install a vapor barrier from the side of the room, create an effective air ventilation system in the rooms.

2. Thermal insulation device inside the wall (multilayer structures):

In this case, the insulation is placed on the outside of the wall and closed with a brick (facing). The creation of such a multilayer wall can be quite successfully implemented in new construction, but for existing buildings it is difficult to do, as it causes an increase in the thickness of the structure, which, as a rule, requires reinforcement, which means reworking the entire foundation.

3. Thermal insulation device on the outside of the wall:

Advantages:

External thermal insulation protects the wall from variable freezing and thawing, makes the temperature fluctuations of its array more even, which increases the durability of the supporting structure.
The "dew point", or the condensation zone of the outgoing vapors, is taken out into the insulation - outside the bearing wall. The vapor-permeable heat-insulating materials used for this do not prevent the evaporation of moisture from the wall into the outer space. This helps to reduce wall moisture and increases the life of the entire structure.
External thermal insulation does not allow heat flow from the load-bearing wall to the outside, thus increasing the temperature of the load-bearing structure. At the same time, the array of the insulated wall becomes a heat accumulator - it contributes to a longer preservation of heat indoors in winter and coolness in summer.

Flaws:

The outer heat-insulating layer must be protected both from moisture by atmospheric precipitation and from mechanical impact with a durable, but vapor-permeable coating. We have to arrange the so-called ventilated facade or plaster.
The so-called dew point gets inside the insulation layer, and this always leads to an increase in its humidity. It will be possible to avoid this by using heaters with high vapor permeability, due to which moisture both gets inside the layer and evaporates out of it.

After weighing all the pros and cons of each of the three ways of placing the insulation, we can definitely say that external insulation is certainly the most rational.

The essence of roof insulation

In the construction of private houses, the construction of cold attics was traditionally used, when the main insulation was carried out along the surface of the floors, i.e. across the attic floor. This approach was associated with a lack of heat-insulating material that could be laid on roof structures. The modern approach allows you to insulate the under-roof space along the truss structures themselves, while creating a full-fledged attic and increasing living space at minimal cost.

Roof insulation materials

Particular attention should be paid to the choice of insulation. For roof insulation, materials are used that differ in terms of thermal conductivity, vapor permeability, moisture repellency and mechanical characteristics, durability, fire resistance, ease of use and cost. When buying thermal insulation material for roof insulation, you need to pay attention to the following criteria:

Compliance of the material with building codes and environmental standards.
Scope of material use - choose material exclusively for roofing.
Speed and ease of installation - insulation should not require large labor costs and cause difficulties in work.
The useful life of the selected coating.
Water-repellent properties - the insulation material should not absorb moisture, as its thermal conductivity will decrease significantly.
Vapor barrier characteristics - it is better to choose a thermal insulation material with one side covered with foil.

Fiberglass and glass wool. The material has a high level of sound absorption and low weight. The price of fiberglass roof insulation is relatively low. However, in terms of its thermal insulation characteristics, glass wool is not inferior to other heaters.
Mineral and basalt wool. Insulation is produced on the basis of rock fibers; it consists of ready-made rolls or slabs of various sizes. Depending on the desired result, it is customary to lay out the insulation in one or a couple of layers. The material has low hygroscopicity, provides a high level of sound insulation and does not burn. In the manufacture of mineral wool insulation, it undergoes toxicological and radiological testing.
Extruded polystyrene foam and polystyrene. These materials are light in processing, have a small weight, are characterized by minimal thermal conductivity, and are not exposed to the harmful effects of moisture. Similar thermal insulation methods differ from each other only in thermophysical characteristics: expanded polystyrene (foam) is airtight, and polystyrene has high air permeability. They are both combustible, but this problem can be easily solved with a flame retardant layer and flame retardant impregnation.
Penofol. This material is polyethylene foam that is covered with aluminum foil. Its main features are low thermal conductivity and moisture absorption, as well as a small thickness, which saves space.

Preparing for the installation of thermal insulation

At the second stage of preparatory work, before fixing the heat-insulating material, it is necessary to check the electrical wiring for serviceability. Repair its damaged parts, replace worn wires, ring switches, carefully check all connectors, joints, fasteners and joints. If the electrical wiring is completely unsuitable, it should be redone.

Options for arranging thermal insulation of the roof

Laying thermal insulation material

There are several methods for laying thermal insulation material:

Roll method. When creating thermal insulation, it is customary to use rolls with a substrate that protrudes on the sides. A foil insulation with a polymer filler and a substrate stands out from the rolled heat-insulating materials. A high level of thermal insulation is achievable due to the low density - 15 - 20 kg / cu. meter.
Stuffed way. To do this, stretch a metal mesh with cells that have dimensions of 15 by 15 millimeters, and fix with pins, which are staggered. Then carry out layer-by-layer backfilling with material.
Sleepy way. Such thermal insulation of the roof is used in the presence of a difference in the intervals between the rafter beams. The backfill material is fibrous or granular vermiculite, foam glass or perlite sand. The heating process provokes an increase in the volume of vermiculite by approximately 6-8 times. Backfill is an ideal way to insulate non-standard roofs. But this method should not be used in a ventilated attic in order to avoid its weathering.
Sheet insulation. The materials are mineral fiber mats, polystyrene or polyurethane plates. Sheet heat insulator is attached directly to the roof rafters. The cost of its transportation and installation, due to its low weight, is much lower when compared with other methods of thermal insulation.
Blow method. Within the framework of this technique, a mass of fibrous polymer is used as a material, which is fed by blowing through an elastic pipeline. This method is not suitable for attics under roofs of complex shape. For blown insulation, it is customary to use a material made on the basis of environmentally friendly cellulose fibers.
Sprayed thermal insulation. Spraying can be carried out on any surface. Polyurethane foam is applied to all elements from the inside of the roof, it expands and fills all cracks and cavities with high quality. There is no need for additional fastening, because there will be no seam. The material is considered resistant to decay and exposure to harmful microorganisms, has a long service life.

Internal and external insulation

Internal insulation is the most popular thermal insulation option and is suitable for pitched and flat roofs. The internal insulation of the roof is carried out according to the following technology: first, the inner lining of the room is laid, on top of it - a vapor barrier, then - a heat-insulating material, after that - wind and waterproofing.

Insulation of pitched and flat roofs

The choice of methods for thermal insulation of a pitched roof is carried out, depending on the characteristics of the building. If the house is in operation, and you do not provide for the dismantling of the roofing material, the main or additional roof insulation must be carried out along the inside of the roof - directly along the truss systems.

If the building is only in the process of construction, and you have not yet installed the roofing material, then it is worth insulating the outer side of the pitched roof structures, and the internal crate will act as a support for the thermal insulation material. For roof insulation, you can choose one or two layers of thermal insulation. But at the same time, it is worth using only a heater that has the same density.

For thermal insulation of flat roofs, it is necessary to use dense insulation, which must withstand significant loads from snow and water, since precipitation often accumulates on such roofs. Flat roofs made of corrugated board must be insulated with mineral wool, basalt and polystyrene foam slabs, which have a density of about 220 kilograms per cubic meter. The roof on a reinforced concrete slab is insulated with denser materials, for example, PPZh-200 slabs.

Do-it-yourself roof insulation device

Manufacturers of modern building materials offer consumers a ready-made “pie”, but you can also create it yourself at the proper level of quality. The first layer is a moisture-proof material that protects the insulation layer from excessive moisture that comes from the room. Usually foil, polyethylene and other materials are used.

Calculations were made for a typical two-story house with an attic with a total area of 205 m2, insulated in accordance with old and modern standards. The required power of the heating system before insulation is 30 kW. After the house has been insulated, the required power does not exceed 15 kW. So the conclusion is clear.

Location of the heater

There are three options for the location of the heater.

1.From the inside of the wall.

Advantages:

The exterior of the house is completely preserved.

Ease of execution. Work is carried out in warm and dry conditions, and this can be done at any time of the year.

You can resort to the most modern technologies at the moment, using the widest choice of materials.

Flaws:

In any case, the loss of usable area is inevitable. At the same time, the greater the thermal conductivity of the insulation, the greater the losses.

It is likely that the humidity of the supporting structure will increase. Through the insulation (usually a vapor-permeable material), water vapor passes unhindered, and then begins to accumulate either in the thickness of the wall or at the “cold wall-insulation” border. At the same time, the insulation delays the flow of heat from the room into the wall and thus lowers its temperature, which further aggravates the waterlogging of the structure.

That is, if, for one reason or another, the only possible option for insulation is the placement of insulation from the inside, then it will be necessary to take fairly strict structural measures to protect the wall from moisture - install a vapor barrier from the side of the room, create an effective air ventilation system in the rooms.

2. Inside the wall (multilayer structures).

3. From the outside of the wall.

Advantages:

External thermal insulation protects the wall from variable freezing and thawing, makes the temperature fluctuations of its array more even, which increases the durability of the supporting structure.

The "dew point", or the condensation zone of the outgoing vapors, is taken out into the insulation - outside the bearing wall. The vapor-permeable heat-insulating materials used for this do not prevent the evaporation of moisture from the wall into the outer space. This helps to reduce wall moisture and increases the life of the entire structure.

External thermal insulation does not allow heat flow from the load-bearing wall to the outside, thus increasing the temperature of the load-bearing structure. At the same time, the array of the insulated wall becomes a heat accumulator - it contributes to a longer preservation of heat indoors in winter and coolness in summer.

Flaws:

The outer heat-insulating layer must be protected both from moisture by atmospheric precipitation and from mechanical impact with a durable, but vapor-permeable coating. We have to arrange the so-called ventilated facade or plaster.

The so-called dew point gets inside the insulation layer, and this always leads to an increase in its humidity. It will be possible to avoid this by using heaters with high vapor permeability, due to which moisture both gets inside the layer and evaporates out of it.

After weighing all the pros and cons of each of the three ways of placing the insulation, we can definitely say that external insulation is certainly the most rational.

METHODS OF WARMING OF FACADES

It should be noted right away that when the building is insulated from the outside, its decoration ceases to play only an aesthetic role. Now it should not only create comfortable conditions inside the building, but also protect the supporting structure and the insulation attached to it from the effects of various weather factors, but without losing external attractiveness. In this regard, it is impossible to talk only about the methods of insulating houses and the materials used for this - whatever one may say, you will have to talk about finishing in parallel, since both operations are simply inseparable from each other.

First of all, it is worth considering wooden structures, since it is for them that the wall “layer cake” scheme turns out to be the most complex and it is they that are most susceptible to destruction due to improper construction. It would be useful to consider in passing the processes occurring in the insulated structure.

Insulation of wooden structures

As you know, wood is one of the most traditional building materials from which frame and log houses are built not only in Russia, but also in many other countries. True, no matter how wonderful properties a tree possesses, it is not a heat insulator to a sufficient extent. Since we are talking about a relatively moisture-intensive material that is highly susceptible to decay processes, mold and other diseases caused by its moisture, the most optimal scheme is external insulation with a protective and decorative screen (outer skin) with a ventilated gap between the insulation and this very screen ( see fig.).

This scheme includes such components as internal cladding (from the side of the room), vapor barrier, wooden supporting structure, insulation, wind protection, ventilated air gap, external cladding (from the street). If we want to understand why each of these components is needed, it is worth considering in more detail those physical processes that occur in an insulated structure (see Fig.).

On average, for year-round operation of the building heating season lasts 5 months, of which three fall in the winter. This means that 24 hours a day there is a stable temperature difference between the internal space (a zone of positive temperature) and the street (a zone sub-zero temperature). And since there is a temperature difference, it means that in a wall structure with a certain thermal conductivity, a heat flow is inevitably formed in the direction “from heat to cold”. Simply put, the wall takes the heat of the room and takes it to the street. So, the main task of the heater is to reduce this flow to a minimum. At present, the use of heaters is regulated by the requirements for thermal protection of enclosing structures, specified in Amendment No. 3 to SNiP 11-3-79 * "Construction Heat Engineering", which entered into force at the beginning of 2000.

It is important to know that the thermal insulation material is effective as long as it remains dry. For example, basalt insulation with a volumetric moisture of only 5% loses 15-20% of its thermal insulation properties. Moreover, the greater its humidity, the more significant the losses become. In fact, the insulation ceases to be a heater, which means that the main question becomes: where does the moisture come from in it?

Air always contains water vapor in one volume or another. At 100% relative humidity and a temperature of 20 °C, 1 m3 of air can contain up to 17.3 g of water in the form of steam. As the temperature decreases, the ability of air to retain moisture drops sharply, and at a temperature of 16 ° C, 1 m3 of air can already contain no more than 13.6 g of water. That is, the lower the temperature, the less moisture the air is able to retain. If, when the temperature drops, the actual content of water vapor in the air exceeds the maximum allowable value for a given temperature, then the “extra” vapor will immediately turn into drops of water. And this is the source of moisture insulation.

The whole process goes like this. The relative humidity of indoor air is about 55-65%, which is much higher than the humidity of outdoor air, especially in winter. And since there is a difference in values between the two volumes, then a “flow” inevitably arises, designed to equalize these values - warm water vapor first moves from the room to the street through the insulated structure. But since he has to move “from heat to cold”, along the way he will condense (turn into drops), moisturizing, thus insulating material.

You can stop the humidification process by creating a so-called vapor barrier, arranged from the side of the room. To create it, you need or a couple of layers oil paint, or rolled vapor barrier materials that are covered with decorative sheathing. Moisture vapor in this case is removed from the premises by means of forced ventilation (see Fig.).

But the organization of such a vapor barrier is far from being the only necessary condition. The air contained in the insulation, having heated up from the inner (bearing) wall, will begin to move towards the street. I must say that simultaneous vapor-permeable heat-insulating materials will not interfere with such movement, and as the air cools, moisture can also begin to condense from it. To avoid this, water vapor that has reached the outer boundary of the thermal insulation material must be given an unhindered opportunity to leave it before condensation occurs. So, the second condition for ensuring the normal operation of the insulated structure is the presence of well-organized ventilation - the creation of the so-called ventilated gap between the outer skin and the layer of heat-insulating material, as well as the conditions for the occurrence of “draft” (air flow) in this gap. Just the "thrust" and will remove the water vapor that comes out of the insulating material.

But even these measures will not be enough. It is also necessary to isolate the heat-insulating layer from the side of the street, and if this is not done, the heat-insulating properties of the insulation may deteriorate. Firstly, due to atmospheric moisture (penetration of rain, snow, etc.), wetting of the thermal insulation layer can occur. Secondly, because of the wind, it is impossible to “blow through” low-density heaters, which is accompanied by heat loss. Thirdly, under the influence of a constant air flow in the ventilated gap, the destruction of the heat-insulating material may begin - the process of "blowing out" the insulation.

In order to preserve the heat-shielding characteristics of the structure on the surface of the thermal insulation, bordering; with a ventilated gap, a layer of windproof, moisture-proof and at the same time vapor-permeable material is laid.

It is unacceptable to install the same vapor-tight (“non-breathing”) material from the side of the street as from the inside (the so-called vapor barrier), since in this case the insulated structure would become insulated. The fact is that in an isolated space, air also moves “from heat to cold”, but at the same time it does not have the opportunity to go towards the ventilated gap. With the movement of air to the side outer skin and simultaneous cooling inside the heat insulator, active condensation of moisture occurs, which eventually freezes into ice. As a result, the thermal insulation material loses most of its effectiveness. With the advent of the warm season, the ice will melt, and the entire structure will inevitably begin to rot.

Summing up all of the above, we can formulate the following basic condition for the successful operation of an insulated wall structure: the thermal insulation must remain sufficiently dry, regardless of the season and weather conditions. Due to the fulfillment of this requirement, the presence of a vapor barrier on the side of the room and a wind barrier on the side of the ventilated gap is ensured.

The design and order of its installation of the crate will mainly depend on the material that will be used as a protective screen. For example, the process of installing a sheathing for laying insulation, followed by the installation of siding, looks something like this. On the outer surface of the wall, vertical ones are fixed, pre-treated with an antiseptic composition. wooden bars- their thickness is 50 mm, and the width must exceed the thickness of the plates of the selected insulation. For example, with a thermal insulation thickness of 80 mm, the thickness of the frame bars should be at least 100-110 mm - this is necessary to ensure an air gap. The step of the crate should be selected in accordance with the width of the insulation boards. The latter fit into the grooves between the bars and are additionally attached to the load-bearing wall by means of anchors. The number of anchors per 1 m2 of insulation is determined in accordance with the density (and hence strength) of the selected insulation and can vary between 4-8 pieces. A windproof layer is mounted on top of the insulation, and only then siding (see Fig.).

Of course, this is the simplest, but by no means the most best circuit, since during its implementation there are still so-called cold bridges (zones with much less thermal resistance than the insulation), which in this case are the crate bars. From a thermotechnical point of view, the installation scheme is much more efficient, in which the insulation layer is divided into two equal parts (for example, with the required thickness of 100 mm, two plates with a thickness of 50 mm are used) and each of these layers is laid with its own crate. In the latter case, the bars of the crate of the upper layer are stuffed perpendicular to the bars of the bottom. Of course, the creation of such a structure is a more time-consuming process, but there are practically no "cold bridges" in it. In conclusion, it remains to close the insulation with a layer of wind insulation, securing it with vertical bars, and mount the same siding already on them (see Fig.).

As already noted, vapor barrier materials are used in insulated wall structures as an “internal” protection of thermal insulation materials. When choosing one or another specific material, they are usually guided by the principle: the higher the value of the resistance to vapor permeability of the material (Rn), the better.

Vapor barrier materials are sold in rolls and can be mounted both horizontally and vertically on inside enclosing structure close to the thermal insulation. The connection to the elements of the supporting structure is carried out either with staples of a mechanical stapler, or with galvanized nails with a flat head. It should be borne in mind that water vapor has a sufficiently high diffusion (penetrating) ability, and therefore the vapor barrier must be created in the form of a continuous screen, which means that the tightness of the seams is a prerequisite. Among other things, it is necessary to carefully monitor that the film remains intact.

For a long time, sealing of seams has been ensured with the help of butyl rubber connecting tapes with adhesive layers on both sides, or by laying "strips" of vapor barrier material overlapping with fixation along the seam with a counter beam.

When we are dealing with ceilings of living spaces, attic superstructures and rooms with high humidity, it is required to provide a gap of 2-5 cm between the vapor barrier and the interior lining material, which should prevent it from getting wet.

At the moment Russian market building materials, offers to create a vapor barrier vapor barrier materials from such manufacturers as: JUTA (Czech Republic) - Jutafol N/Al; TEGOLA (Italy) - Bar line; ELTETE (Finland) - line Re-Rar 125, ICOPAL (Finland) - Ventitek, Ventitek Plus, Elbotek 350 White, Elbotek 350 Alu, Alupap 125, Elkatek 150, Elkatek 130; MONARFLEX (Denmark) - Polykraft and some others.

Wind-insulating materials are used in wall structures (including systems of ventilated facades), performing the function of external protection of heat-insulating materials. The main task of these materials is to keep moisture and wind out of the insulation layer, while not preventing water vapor from escaping from it.

When choosing wind-insulating materials, it is important to take into account that the vapor permeability resistance of a multilayer building envelope should decrease in the direction of water vapor movement - “from heat to cold”. That is, than less value resistance to vapor permeability of the selected material (Rn), the less likely it is to condense water vapor inside the insulated structure. True, when following this principle, there is a risk of overdoing it. As the practice of installing ventilated facades shows, the vapor permeability of windproof materials in the range of 150-300 g / (m2-day) is quite sufficient, and their price is adequate for the wave (about 0.5 cu / m2). As for the use of superdiffusion materials (their vapor permeability exceeds 1000 g/(m2-day)), in this case they will not contribute anything fundamentally different to the work of the structure, but the cost of the structure will increase markedly, since the prices for such materials exceed 1 cu. . e./m2.

Installation of windproof materials is carried out on the outer side of the building envelope close to the thermal insulation. The material can be laid both horizontally and vertically. The overlap between the sheets (width) must be at least 150 mm. It is extremely important to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for installation and installation and in no case confuse the front side with the wrong side. The latter is of great importance due to the fact that many vapor barrier materials have one-sided vapor conductivity, and if the sides are mixed up, the insulated structure will turn into an isolated one, which is detrimental to it.

During installation, the sheets of windproof material are pre-fixed with galvanized stainless nails with a wide head, or special brackets with a pitch of 200 mm are suitable for this purpose. The final fastening is carried out using a beam with a section of 50 x 50 mm, nailed with galvanized nails 100 mm long with an interval of 300-350 mm.

Then the installation of the facing material is carried out.

At the moment, to create a wind barrier, the Russian market offers vapor barrier materials from such manufacturers as: JUTA (Czech Republic) - Jutafol D, Jutakon, Jutavek; DUPONT (Switzerland) - Tyvek series membranes; MONARFLEX (Denmark) - Monarflex BM 310, Monarperm 450, Difofol Super; ELTETE (Finland) - Elkatek SD, Elwitek 4400, Elwitek 5500, Bitupap 125, Bitukrep 125, etc.

Insulation of a stone (brick) wall

Warming with further plastering

For these purposes, the so-called contact facade thermal insulation systems are used (Fig. 40). There are a great many options for such systems: Tex-Color, Heck, Loba, Ceresit (Germany), "Termoshuba" (Belarus), (USA), TsNIIEP housing systems (RF), "Fur coat-plus", etc. In such systems, constructive solutions differ in the type of insulation used and the methods of its fastening. As well as the thickness and composition of the protective and adhesive layers, the type of reinforcing mesh, etc. The insulation schemes offered by each of them are similar in many respects: adhesive or mechanical fastening of the insulation with the help of anchors, dowels and frames to the existing wall with further coating of its protective ( but necessarily vapor-permeable) layer of plaster (for example, in the Dryvit system, acrylic plaster is most often used).

Dry, strong and clean non-plastered or plastered brick, concrete or foam-gas concrete can serve as a base. facade wall. Significant unevenness should be eliminated with cement or lime-cement mortar. When the surface brick wall does not need to be strengthened with a primer, you can do without it for all other types of bases, it is worth using a primer.

The order of work is approximately the following. The function of the support for the first row of thermal insulation material can be performed by the protruding edge of the foundation or the edge of the concrete floor slab. If there is none, then with the help of dowels a false support is installed - a wooden or metal support rail (the wooden one is removed immediately before plastering). Glue consumption, for example, for brickwork will be from 3.5 to 5 kg / m2, which directly depends on how even the base is. The slabs are laid, as when laying bricks - closely to each other with "bandaging of the seams".

It must be said that the gluing procedure for facades small area by and large, it is not necessary - glue is needed only in order to hold the insulation boards on the facade until they are mechanically fixed to the load-bearing wall.
-It is necessary to fix the insulation boards mechanically, for example, this can be done using plastic expansion dowels with a stainless metal rod. The number of dowels depends on the type of insulation used, for example, for expanded polystyrene, it should be at least 6 per 1 m2. The fixing depth of the dowels at the base of the wall must be at least 50 mm.

Work is carried out 2-3 days after gluing. Corners and edges of windows and door slopes reinforced with special corner profiles made of perforated aluminum or plastic. After that, you can start applying the main plaster layer. If it is planned to make a small layer of plaster (within 12 mm in the case of using dense mineral insulation), you can use a plasticized alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh, with a thicker layer (2-3 cm in the case of using expanded polystyrene), it is better to use a metal mesh (see Fig.).

Apply plaster in two layers. A thicker layer is laid first - strips of reinforcing mesh are pressed into it. This is done so that the mesh, and hence the plaster, perceives temperature and other loads as best as possible, it should be located in the outer third of the thickness of the plaster layer, and not at the very surface of the heat-insulating coating. The second put a thinner layer of plaster - immediately after pressing the mesh into the bottom layer. Both in width and length, the mesh strips overlap by 10-20 cm, and at the corners of the building they are bent with an overlap.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that both the same mortar and different ones can be used for gluing insulating boards and making the main plaster. For example, for gluing - Ispo Kleber Mortar, and for plastering - Ispos No. 1 Verbundmortel for a thin layer, or Ispo SL 540 Armierungs-Leichtputz for a thick layer. Also, compounds reinforced with microfibers are suitable for plastering, which will give them additional strength and reduce the likelihood of cracks (one of these is Jubizol Lepilna Malta, produced by JUB, Slovenia).

When the plaster dries, you can proceed to the final finish. At this stage of work, the choice will largely depend on your preferences: plaster treated with a roller, spatula, spray; "brushed" plaster, with "oak bark" rubbing, etc.; With its further painting or simply painting the main plaster layer after puttying (see Fig.).

With the method described above, there is no need to use vapor barrier and wind barrier materials. The vapor barrier will be replaced directly by the supporting structure itself - it has a sufficiently high coefficient of resistance to vapor permeability, and the wind barrier will replace the layer of vapor-permeable plaster. Small amounts of water vapor that nevertheless got inside the wall will be freely removed to the outside through the plaster and the insulation layer.

Ventilated gap design

By and large, this insulation option is something in between the options already discussed above for a wooden and stone house with further plastering. Although the insulation in this case is not glued, but is attached to the facade with dowels. After that, its surface is covered with a windproof material, and a ventilated gap is arranged, which from the outside will have to cover a protective and decorative screen. As in the previous case, there is no need to use vapor barrier materials (Fig. 43).

The hinged facade can be mounted both on a wooden crate and on a metal one. metal profiles and other elements that allow you to quickly and quite simply carry out such installation, now in in large numbers offered by many companies - for example, such as "METAL PROFIL".

The main advantage of this insulation scheme is that its fastening can be carried out at negative temperatures (there are no so-called wet processes). However, the system has its limitations in application for buildings with complex architecture, as well as in cases where an accurate reproduction of the original appearance of the facade is required.

AT low-rise construction it is best to use decorative protective screens with additional sources of air convection feeding on the surface of the screen. In reality, they are made in the form of slotted air intakes, which are molded during the production of facade elements. A classic example is the now popular plastic siding with perforations at the bottom of the panels. The same screen can be mounted using facing tiles ARDOGRES - during installation, a technological gap of 10 by 160 mm is formed under each tile.