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How to heat a cottage in winter: practical recommendations. How to heat and keep warm in the garage in winter

To all year round enjoy garden vegetables and fruits, you need to take care of winter heating for the greenhouse. Previously, this approach was popular among farmers, but now ordinary gardeners are also interested in it.

In this article, we'll talk about how to build winter greenhouse With heating with your own hands, what are heating systems greenhouses and how to make heating in a greenhouse with your own hands.

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  • Heating a greenhouse: ways
  • Useful video

Heating a greenhouse: ways

How to heat a greenhouse in winter? Now there are many ways to do it in a greenhouse heating with your own hands. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, therefore, in order to choose the ideal option for greenhouse heating with your own hands, you need to pay attention to the following selection criteria:

  • greenhouse size;
  • financial opportunities;
  • climatic features of the region;
  • the need of different greenhouse plants for heating.

Heated winter greenhouse - projects, photos:

Solar

This is the most natural way of heating. In order for the sun to heat the greenhouse better, you need to place it in the sunniest place and choose the right covering material. The ideal coverage is glass.

The rays of the sun pass through the coating, heat the earth and air. Heat is given back much weaker due to the density of the structure and covering material. The greenhouse is best heated in the form hemispheres or arches.

Advantages:

  • profitability;
  • environmental friendliness.

Flaws:

  • in winter, this method can only be used in the southern regions;
  • at night, the temperature can drop sharply, which will lead to the death of plants.

How to heat a greenhouse in winter? The next way to heat a greenhouse in winter is electric. For a small and hermetic structure, this would be ideal.

There is different ways electric heating greenhouses in winter

  • convection systems;
  • water heating;
  • infrared heating;
  • heaters;
  • cable heating;
  • Heat pump.

Heaters for greenhouses have different mechanism of action.

The common advantage of such structures is that they respond to temperature changes and automatically create ideal microclimate. With proper placement electric heaters the greenhouse will be heated evenly, which will significantly improve plant growth.

Advantages:

  • profitability;
  • mobility (most of these devices can be configured to the parameters of any greenhouse);
  • ventilation.

Flaws:

  • if there is a shortage of heaters, the air will warm up unevenly;
  • soil heating is very limited.

Read on our website about how to make a system for greenhouses with your own hands drip irrigation, hydraulic cylinder and why thermoregulation is needed.

Air

System air heating installed during the construction of the greenhouse. Its installation is very complicated, so a specialist should deal with this matter.

How to do heating in a greenhouse? Special heating and ventilation devices are installed in the base of the foundation and in the frame of the building, which distribute warm air at the top of the greenhouse. Due to this, hot air does not enter the plants themselves and does not burn the tender leaves of the seedlings.

To heat the soil, around the perimeter of the greenhouse, you can install perforated heating sleeve.

Winter greenhouses with heating - photo:

Underfloor heating system

With the help of a "warm floor" you can heat the soil. Such a system can be made to heat the greenhouse in winter with your own hands. Installation of the structure is simple: you need to remove part of the soil, fill the trenches with sand, put a layer of heat-insulating material, lay the cable with a snake and fill it with sand and soil again.

Such a system allows save on installation and operation. In addition, its advantage is the ability to automatically regulate heating and evenly distribute heat throughout the greenhouse.

Biological

Villagers still use the easiest way to heat greenhouses - biological. Heat in this case is released due to the decomposition of organic substances by microorganisms. As a heating substance, horse manure is usually used, since it is able to reach a temperature of 60–70ºС for a week and keep it up to 120 days.

Advantages:

  • the air of the greenhouse is saturated with carbon dioxide useful for plants;
  • manure also serves as fertilizer;
  • due to evaporation, the air and soil are constantly moistened.

Flaws:

  • in the southern parts Russia this method is suitable for winter, but for Ural it is advisable to use it only in the spring;
  • horse manure is difficult to find, and other organic substances (compost, garbage) take longer to warm up and lose heat earlier.

Making a bed with manure is easy: you need to remove all the earth from it, fill it with horse manure on 1/3 and then lay out the soil again.

How to heat a greenhouse in winter? Stove heating has long been used by gardeners.

In winter, an ordinary potbelly stove can maintain the optimum air temperature in the greenhouse for a long time - about 18ºС.

However, this method is only suitable for southern regions of Russia: such a stove will not cope with Siberian frosts.

Dignity stove heating is economical: materials for a potbelly stove are relatively inexpensive and installation is easy to do with your own hands.

Heat can be obtained with any solid fuel- firewood, coal, sawdust, rags, packaging materials. The resulting waste, ash and ashes, can be used to fertilize the beds.

Disadvantages of furnace heating:

  • the air does not always warm up evenly: a zone is formed near the stove high temperature in which plants can die;
  • potbelly stove- a fire hazardous design, so you need to pay special attention to thermal insulation;
  • labor-intensive heating process: the design will function properly only if fuel is regularly thrown into the stove.

Such greenhouse heating you can do it yourself. To do this, you will need the following materials and tools:

  • sheets of heat-resistant metal;
  • pipes of the same diameter made of cast iron, steel or ceramics;
  • metal rods and corners;
  • tape measure and plumb;
  • grinder or scissors for metal;
  • welding machine;
  • bolts and couplings;
  • burnt brick;
  • clay and lime mortar.

One potbelly stove can heat the space in 15 m2. There must be at least 30 cm between the heating elements of the structure and the walls of the greenhouse.

If the greenhouse is made of a material that is easily meltable (polycarbonate, polyethylene), then this distance should be doubled.

The heating structure consists of:

  • furnaces;
  • chimney;
  • chimney.

The fuel that burns in the furnace gives off warm smoke. With the help of a chimney, it spreads throughout the greenhouse, heating the air, and then exits through the chimney.

Do-it-yourself heating of a greenhouse with a potbelly stove:

To make such heating of the greenhouse in winter with your own hands, you first need to do foundation. Thanks to him, the stove will not warp, its legs will not fall into the ground, and the risk of fire will be minimized.

  1. For the foundation you need to prepare foundation pit 0.5 m deep. Its area depends on the size of the stove. If it is supposed to overlay the finished stove brickwork, when digging a pit, this must be taken into account.
  2. In the finished pit, you need to fill in a mixture of sand, fine gravel and brick fragments. A layer of 15-20 cm will be enough.
  3. Now you can install wooden formwork: the boards must be placed around the perimeter of the pit, and the gaps between them and the walls of the pit should be covered with sand.
  4. In the hole, limited by the boards, you need to fill cement and then lay roofing material layer. This will provide additional waterproofing, and the foundation will last longer.
  5. The final touch is laying bricks. They are placed on the roofing material in two layers, fixing with a clay-sand mortar.

Advice! To make the design even, after each step you need to check with a plumb line.

Designs:

There are different designs stoves-bourgeois, but the simplest is the usual rectangular oven. It is better to install it in such a way that the furnace hole goes out. This will facilitate the process of burning, and the possibility of smoke in the greenhouse will decrease.

  1. The size of the stove will depend on the size of the greenhouse. Average options: width - 30 cm, length - 40 cm, height - 45–50 cm. Such a stove can heat 10–15 m2 space. Given these features, you need to draw a diagram of the future design.
  2. The firebox is made from any heat-resistant metal. You need to mark the sheets and cut out the structural elements (bottom, walls and roof) with a grinder or metal scissors.
  3. Now you should weld the bottom and three walls. Inside, up ¼ from the bottom, needs to be welded metal corners. They have a grid on them.
  4. The grate can be bought at the store or made independently from metal rods. The rods are welded together in such a way that a lattice with holes is obtained. 1–4 cm2. The size of the holes will depend on the future fuel. The grate will hold the fuel, and the products of combustion - soot and ash - will pass down into the ash box.
  5. In the future roof of the stove, you need to cut a hole for a chimney with a diameter 13-15 cm. The roof can then be welded to the structure.
  6. Important! If the chimney is placed underground, then the hole can be made not in the roof, but at the bottom or in one of the walls.

  7. On the front wall of the oven you need to do two holes: fuel will be placed through one, and the second will be used as a blower. Through it it will be possible to clean the stove from ash. Doors for openings must be cut out of a metal sheet and attached to the wall with hinges. Handles should be attached to the doors.
  8. Now you can weld the front part to the stove. If it is intended to place the furnace hole outside, it must be covered heat-insulating material. Otherwise, the heated metal in contact with the parts of the greenhouse will melt them.
  9. A short section of pipe must be welded to the hole in the roof, to which it will subsequently be attached chimney.
  10. Metal legs must be welded to the bottom or ends of the stove and fastened with a jumper. This will add constructs sustainability.
  11. To reduce the risk of fire and increase the heat transfer time, you can overlay the furnace brickwork. This material retains heat longer: thanks to it, the stove will have to be heated less often.

Chimney

Chimney can be made either from a single pipe or from pipe segments of equal diameter. If the greenhouse is small, and it will be enough to heat the air, chimney can be laid above the ground. If soil heating is required, an underground structure is suitable.

  1. Pipe sections for chimney need to be fastened together. For this you can use welding machine or special couplings (clamps). In the latter case, the joints between the pipes under the couplings are smeared with clay.
  2. Chimney must be connected to the furnace with the same couplings or welding.
  3. If it is intended to place chimney underground, then you need to dig shallow trenches (25–40 cm) and lay parallel pipes in them. The distance between the pipes should be from 60 to 100 cm. The pipes are covered with expanded clay or small gravel, and their ends are led out of the greenhouse. This design is the perfect replacement "warm floor".
  4. If a chimney will be above ground, it must be installed on props. It is best to place it at a slight angle so that the end adjacent to the chimney rises slightly. This will increase traction.
  5. elevated chimney must be covered with lime or chalk. A white surface will show any warping or rust stains. This will help to easily control the state of the structure.

Chimney

This part of the design will smoke out outside the greenhouse.


Advice! The damper can only be closed after the fuel has completely burned out. Otherwise carbon monoxide can go to the greenhouse.

Water tank

Near the stove or on it, you can install water tank. It will allow you to water the plants all year round warm water. In addition, the water next to the stove will maintain the optimal level of humidity in the room, which will have a beneficial effect on the condition of green residents.

Now you know how to do heated greenhouse with your own hands. With the help of a warm greenhouse, you can get an excellent harvest even in winter time. Just choose the right one heating method. For the southern regions, any method is suitable, but residents of the north should prefer electric heaters.

DIY greenhouse with heating will delight you all year round with a tasty and healthy harvest!

Useful video

Watch a video on how to heat a greenhouse:

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How to heat at least a small room or heat / cook food in the absence of such an achievement of civilization as electricity? The review contains advice and instructions from people who have already encountered such an urgent problem.

In a situation where the room is cold, the heating does not work and the electric heater is either impossible to turn on, or not like - there is no light, for example - everyone can turn out. And Luhansk residents are already familiar with the ban on the use of electric heaters due to the danger of overloading electric lines, which can lead to a complete disconnection of the city from electricity, which the Lugansk City Council warns about almost daily.

And if in the summer, in the absence of light, the only question is how to cook food, then with the onset of cold weather, the problem of heating the room becomes no less acute.

But, as they say, the need for inventions is cunning. And Luhansk residents are not the only ones who faced the problem of heating the premises in the absence of the elementary benefits of civilization. Below we have collected popular and tried and tested methods of heating a small (!) Room, heating food and improvised heaters from improvised materials.

1. Candle heater

The flame of a candle shines quite nicely, but trying to keep warm with it seems like madness. Meanwhile, just as a light source, a candle is an extremely wasteful device. But as a room heater, it can be useful. Under a number of conditions.

California inventor Doyle Doss and his company DOSS Products offer the original Kandle Heeter system, that is, the Candle Heater.

This strange-looking candlestick, claims its creator, can be indispensable in the event of a power outage. Its height is about 23, and its width is about 18 centimeters.

And from its appearance, the inverted pot over the candle attracts attention. In this pot (and he is in " past life» flower pot and was) and the main highlight of the system is hidden.

This pot is not simple, but composite. It is made from three pots different diameter nested one inside the other and connected by a long metal bolt, on which a whole bunch of washers and nuts are strung (fortunately, there are usually already holes in the bottom in pots).

An ordinary candle, burning in a room, gives out very little heat, as it seems. And the point here is that its hot “exhaust” simply goes up and quickly disappears with ventilation.

Meanwhile, the energy reserve in the candle is not so small. Moreover, with the hot flow of combustion products, a large part of its energy content goes away, and only a smaller part passes into light.

The labyrinth cap above the flame collects energy and carefully accumulates it, heating up quite strongly (the central rod is especially hot). And then this heat is slowly transferred to the air by the entire surface of the ceramic radiator.

The pots also help to trap soot from the flames, which is good for keeping the ceiling clean.

The inventor emphasizes that one such device will in no way save you in winter when heating and electricity are turned off, but, on the other hand, it is better than nothing at all.

By the way, clay pots, of course, are not bad, but they have little thermal conductivity and it is better to replace them with a similar metal structure, for example, from cans of various sizes or old Soviet cans from bulk products, who else keeps such as a memory :))

2. Mini tea light heater

The author purchased a heater for the tent, operating on tea candles. Several pieces of such heaters save fishermen in tents from freezing. So, a few candles in tins with holes for air intake are also suitable for a small room or office :)


3. Heater + camp stove for heating food from cans - spirit stove

The design is known abroad under the name alcohol stove, well, or in Russian - a spirit stove. In the Swedish army even adopted.

Alcohol is used because it does not smoke when burned. So the dishes remain clean and soot and smoke do not fly in the air. The design is simple, like 3 kopecks and is repeated in a few minutes from any materials at hand. As a donor for the stove, for example, a beer can, a can of coffee or condensed milk is suitable.

More specifically: you need a small iron container with an iron lid, or you will have to cover it with something.

So: we take a jar, a ruler, a strip of a leaf in a box and a marker or any drawing or scratching object.

1. We mark a strip on the bank stepping back from the top by a third. The easiest way to do this is by scrolling the jar while holding the marker in one position.

2. We wrap a strip of paper around the edge of the mark and fasten it with a piece of adhesive tape or glue.

3. We begin to drill, pierce with an awl or cut holes with a knife along the marked strip. In this case, I made a series of holes with a diameter of 0.8 mm through 10mm and through 5mm - which option is better for you - decide for yourself. You can see how they burn below. A small hole diameter for proper combustion is better than a large one, but you can make 3-5 holes and a centimeter. The uniformity of the holes is a purely aesthetic moment in order to get a beautiful crown of flame as from a regular one. gas stove. All!

Well, not quite of course, now we are learning to kindle it. It is necessary to pour alcohol and close the lid, 50 ml burns for 15 minutes or more. Put on a non-combustible surface and shake lightly so that the alcohol pours a little through the holes on the outside of the jar. We set fire to the alcohol outside and wait until it burns out. We repeat the procedure until we get a self-sustaining flame from improvised nozzles around the jar. Usually it is enough to repeat 2-3 times and everything starts working by itself.

Its principle of operation is simple: the flame heats the walls of the jar, the heat is transferred down the walls to the alcohol, the alcohol boils near the walls and the pressure inside rises, the alcohol vapors come out under pressure through the holes and, mixing with air, burn beautifully. Now we put a pot, a kettle, a mug on top, or we just warm ourselves around the stove - it gives a lot of heat and burns for a long time.

For greater heat transfer, you can put a home-made spirit stove in a large iron container, which would heat up and give off heat:

How less quantity holes, the harder it is to kindle, but less fuel consumption and less heat from it. A liter of water boils in less than 10 minutes. Resistant to wind, put out by covering, lay as much fuel as necessary, otherwise you will have to wait for burnout or pour hot alcohol back into the container, which is not safe.

Similar "one-cup" options from a can with a filling hole that closes with a coin and from an aerosol can:

4. Wood burner for heating food

And here they offer a little more complex structure wood burner - from 2-3 cans. True, with this option, you need to remember about ventilation in a tent or room.


5. Heating pads from plastic bottles

This way to warm up an ice bed or to warm up legs sitting behind desk well known to students living in hostels :))

Ordinary plastic bottles can be filled hot water and use instead of heating pad.

Attention! If the temperature of the water is close to boiling, then when filling the bottle, trouble will definitely happen: the bottle will begin to shrink ... The water temperature of 60-70 degrees is optimal.

The experience of employees shows that on slightly flattened bottles, not completely filled with warm / hot water, tightly closed (!) You can even sit :) or carry 1-2 bottles of hot water in a backpack to "warm" your back))

By the way, in the summer of the same bottles you can make a "conditioner".

Freeze a few bottles filled with water, put them on a tray or towel (they will gradually thaw) in front of the fan on. The air temperature in the room will drop significantly.

The most important: in an effort to keep warm, do not forget about the rules fire safety and be careful!

Quote (fantom316 @ 9.1.2011, 14:06) Good day!
My question was somehow touched upon in different topics, I would like to put together different thoughts and practical solutions.
Winter. We are coming to the cottage. We go into a cold house. And we want to get warmer faster.
……
The house on the site is a log house (inside about 30m2) with an outbuilding-canopy (squares 12-14) and an attic. The log house is insulated from the outside with ursa and sheathed with flat slate.
Heating was not provided at all.

I started by installing a 1.5 kW Noirot electric convector. Wanted to put two on different walls under the windows, it just turned out 3 kW per 30 m2. But the network cannot withstand such a load.
Plus: it constantly works for me from autumn to spring in the minimum heating mode, maintaining the temperature in the house from 0 to plus 5 degrees, depending on the outboard temperature. Dampness and mold in the corners have disappeared from the house.
Minus: it is certainly not capable of raising the temperature higher - it is not designed for such an area.

Next, I installed a 5 kW Demrad gas convector with a fan, powered by a cylinder.
Wonderful unit. In spring and autumn full Tashkent. But when it's minus 20 outside, it's about 0 in the house (initial conditions), in 6 hours it can gain only 10-11 degrees.

In the hallway (non-insulated frame-panel extension) I am on hastily put the oven long burning“Vologda” (almost a complete analogue of “Chinele”, or vice versa “Chinel” is its analogue) - the least resistance, the stove was lying around in my father's garage for 15 years.

This is how my dacha is set up.

The essence of the question: is it really so long for country houses to warm up? After all, 5 (well, let's say 4.5, taking into account efficiency) kW per 30 square meters is not so small ...

Or is it impossible to do without preliminary shock heating with a gun?

Until last summer, my dacha was approximately the same structure: a 6x6 log cabin + 3x6 frame-panel insulated canopy + a shield insulated attic over it all. Ceiling height - 2.3 m. (Missed due to inexperience)
A brick stove with a stove from the category of heating and cooking stoves is installed in the log house. The size of the oven is 0.8mx1m. The stove was made with a stove not by chance - we were not going to cook on it, but ... The metal stove begins to give off heat already 15 minutes after the start of the firebox. The stove itself is brick, so it keeps the heat normally. In addition, a brick pipe heats the attic. In the unheated hallway, the husband put an infrared heater under the ceiling, which, when the New Year passed -25, kept the temperature +16.
In winter, heating the insulated canopy has a direct meaning - the cold does not go into the house. And yet, go to the toilet or the kitchen, in which the temperature is equal to the temperature environment uncomfortable to say the least.
It is strange that a house with an initial temperature of about 0 does not warm up. It seems to me that the problem is in the house itself, and not in the heating system. We faced such a problem at the end of last November. The insulation in the walls of the attic was urgently replaced (as it turned out, there was nothing left of the Ursa laid there). However, the house did not warm up. They removed the lining from the walls of the log house and found that in some places the floor boards did not reach 10 centimeters to the wall and from there it was blowing with terrible force. Close these gaps. The house has become so warm that this New Year you could walk around the house in a dressing gown and slippers on your bare feet.
Next, we will insulate the floor with Penofol type insulation and plywood 7 - 10 mm on top, then also the joints between the ceiling and the attic and, finally, the foundation outside.
Therefore, a few tips:
- look at the insulation of the house along the floor and at the junction of the floor and walls.
How well is the attic insulated?
- insulate the floor.
- caulk the log house from the inside.
- maybe replace the gas unit with Burelyan?

How to heat and the better to heat the cottage in winter

Today, thousands of our compatriots living in cities are deciding to acquire a dacha. And there they spend their free time both in summer and in winter. This, of course, can be called the right decision - every person, both a child and an adult, will be pleased to be away from a large city, breathe fresh air and enjoy peace and quiet. But here a very serious question arises before many people - how to ensure high-quality heating of the dacha in winter?

On days when the temperature drops below -30 degrees Celsius, even in a well-insulated cottage without good heating to be not only uncomfortable, but also simply dangerous. Therefore, the question of heating country house should be taken as responsibly as possible. To date, there are several of the most common types of heating types:

  • furnace,
  • water,
  • Electrical.

These species can be further divided into several subspecies. Each has certain pros and cons. Every dacha owner who wants to spend a weekend outside the city in the winter season should learn about them.

Back to index

  • 1 Stove heating
  • 2 Water heating
  • 3 Electric heating

Stove heating

To date stove heating is the least demanded for dachas. But still, it also enjoys some popularity, so mentioning it will be very useful.

The main disadvantage of this heating is the difficulty in maintenance. It is necessary several times a day (depending on the temperature outside and the size of the room) to put fuel (coal, peat, wood, coke) into the stove and kindle a fire. When using coal, the ash has to be removed before each furnace, which also takes a lot of time.

The advantage is complete autonomy. You are completely independent of the world around you - you do not need electricity or gas. It is enough to stock up a few cubic meters of firewood or several tons of coal in the summer to be absolutely sure that you can heat your dacha in any frost. The simplicity of the design completely eliminates the risk of breakage, which is also highly appreciated by prudent owners.

Two main types of stoves should be distinguished: Russian stove and potbelly stove.

The Russian stove is widely known both in our country and far beyond its borders. Huge, massive, since ancient times it has performed several functions at once. You can cook food in it, you can sleep on its warm surface, healing from chronic diseases of the joints, and, of course, it can be used for space heating. It is usually installed in the center of the house, dividing the room into several rooms - a kitchen, a hall, a living room or others, at your discretion.

Due to its large size, it can heat several rooms at the same time. When you heat it well, you can be sure that the brick from which it is built will keep warm for many hours, protecting you from sudden temperature changes.

The video tells about all the delights of the Russian stove in the house

Alas, there are also disadvantages.

The first one is large. If you need a really efficient Russian stove, be prepared to allocate at least 6-8 square meters of free space for it.

It is heated for quite a long time - after you light the fire, it will take several hours before the cooled bricks warm up and begin to give off heat to the surrounding space. And of course, this solution is suitable only for one-story buildings. Otherwise, you will have to build a furnace that is similar in size to a steelmaking blast furnace.

Read also Types of fences for summer cottages

The potbelly stove is very different from the Russian stove. It takes up very little space - no more than 1 square meter. It warms up very quickly, after which it begins to warm the air around. For one firebox, it is enough to use 5-7 logs. If desired, it can also boil a kettle or cook dinner.

Potbelly stove

But it also has its downsides. Although it warms up very quickly, it also cools down in the shortest possible time. Half an hour after lighting the fire, it is red-hot, and after another two hours, its walls are barely warm. Frequent temperature changes will not please everyone. And to maintain a constant temperature, firewood will have to be laid every hour. And if you can put up with this during the day, then at night it is much more difficult to do it.

Moreover, it is suitable for heating only one, not too large room - one potbelly stove will not be able to significantly raise the temperature in two or three rooms. Therefore, it is better not to use it for heating a large house.

Back to index

Water heating

If you are interested in how to heat the cottage in winter with great comfort, then we can recommend using heating boilers. Yes, their installation and installation of related equipment will take more time and effort, as well as money. But you can be sure that in all rooms it will be warm and cozy, and you will have to put a minimum of effort and time into this.

Water heating system of a country house

Depending on the fuel used, heating boilers are usually divided into several types:

  • diesel,
  • gas,
  • Solid fuel.

Diesel boilers remain one of the most common in our country. But, basically, this is a legacy of bygone decades. Today, diesel fuel is very expensive, so only very wealthy people can afford to heat their homes in this way. Otherwise, such boilers do not have serious drawbacks. The only one is unpleasant, acrid, oily smoke. You have to bring the chimney above the roof level, otherwise soot appears on the walls, which is quite difficult to get rid of, and none of the inhabitants of the cottage will like the constant smell of burning.

Yet best solution the boiler will be installed in a small outbuilding 5-15 meters from the house, if the size of the site allows it.

The advantages of diesel boilers are quite numerous. Diesel fuel can be stored in a large tank (several tons) buried in the area near the house to be self-contained. High energy intensity allows relatively little fuel to be burned to maintain desired level temperature in the house. The fuel is supplied by itself, thanks to which the temperature in the premises practically does not change all day long, moreover, a person does not need to take part in this process.

Gas boilers are gaining more and more popularity these days. Today, most of the country is gasified, and even in small towns people have access to gas. Its cost is much lower than the cost of diesel fuel, and their energy consumption is quite comparable.

Scheme of operation of a gas boiler

Otherwise, gas is even better than diesel fuel. It does not smoke when burned, which many users like. It is not necessary to have large gas reserves if there is a connection to the gas pipeline.

The only disadvantage of this type of fuel is explosiveness. A tiny leak, which can occur due to improper installation or accidental breakage, is enough for owners to have a real bomb at their side. This deters many potential owners. Although in most cases this danger is reduced to almost zero. To do this, experts recommend installing gas heating boilers not in basements, but in separate buildings. It is very important to ensure good ventilation in this room. Then the possibility of accumulation of gas to a dangerous concentration is completely excluded.

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And finally, solid fuel boilers. They are the least in demand at the present time. Their main disadvantage is the difficulty in operation. Fuel is not supplied here by itself, as in gas and diesel boilers. Coal, firewood or coke must be laid manually, several times a day, after removing the ash from the furnace. As a result, instead of resting in the country, the inhabitants are forced to throw fuel into the boiler furnace all day long.

The device of a solid fuel heating boiler for a country house

But at the same time, one should not forget about some of the advantages of solid fuel boilers. Chief among them is the cheapness of fuel. In any region of the country, you can easily and at low cost buy fuel. Suitable wood, coal, coke or peat. Fuel storage is simplified as much as possible. There is no need to use special containers - it is enough to build a small canopy to prevent the fuel from getting wet. Of course, the possibility of an explosion or other unpleasant consequences is completely excluded.

There are also universal heating boilers. They can have a different design and be designed to work with different types of fuel. A gas boiler after some adjustment can be used as a solid fuel boiler.

Having studied different types heating boilers, their pros and cons, you can decide how to heat the cottage in winter, and in the future do not regret the wrong choice.

At this time of the year, there is no tedious weeding, planting, watering and other time-consuming but very interesting work for people of any age. There is time to just walk among the snow-covered garden, dream and plan the beds for future plantings. Clear the snow from the paths, and then warm up and drink fragrant tea, infused with herbs, in your home. The main thing is that it should be warm, which can be created, but not always easy.

Modern technologies mastered in production building materials, allow you to choose any of them and build even a multi-storey cottage in a short time. And immediately with a well-thought-out heating system, designed and implemented not only independently, but also with the involvement of specialists in this field.

Heating in country houses of old construction

Almost all cottage owners tried to build a stove or just a brick column. Not all nearby settlements are equipped with gas supply. In many places, the electricity supply is turned off for the winter period, they are used to supply water. metal pipes laid on the surface of the earth. It is clear that in such cases it makes no sense to talk about water heating in winter.

Coal and firewood are more commonly used as fuel. But with brick ovens, the main disadvantages are the inability to get the right temperature quickly and the need for regular firing of the oven at least once a day. Immediately upon arrival at the cottage, you will have to turn on the electric heater, if such an opportunity exists.

brick ovens

There are no brick ovens. With a stove, oven, numerous stoves for drying mushrooms, shoes, clothes, storing seeds. Lined with beautiful tiles, the stove is deservedly called the heart of the house. Is it possible not to come even in a harsh winter just to visit her.

The main elements in the construction of any type of furnace are grates, views, cast-iron plates, the installation of which is carried out by the stove-maker in accordance with the project. They are always on sale and even in case of repair they are easy to buy and easy to replace.

The efficiency of the furnace depends on the size of the combustion chamber. A variant of the stove, used only for heating, is a Dutch stove with a long chimney. It is often built in the country. It definitely needs a foundation that goes deep into, and not just built into the floor.

There are many projects of brick ovens with hobs, with a boiler, if there is a heating system. They are all good, but require at least two hours to start dissipating heat into the house.

Maintenance of the oven is not difficult. The main thing is to stock up on time with the necessary amount of fuel, remove ash and clean the chimney from soot. This operation can be carried out very rarely, if you use the advice, burn an aspen log at the last moment of the furnace firing process.

Metal ovens

This type of oven is a good alternative to the brick oven. Their advantage is considered to be rapid heating and heat transfer by walls of different thicknesses, depending on constructive solutions during manufacture. As well as the ability to install just on the floor without a foundation. Unfortunately, they quickly cooled down and the combustion process had to be constantly maintained.

Modern stove models have a beautiful appearance and serve as a real decoration of the house. They are reliable and can keep warm for up to 10 hours, as opposed to 3 hours with older models. This is due to the use of heat-resistant high-alloy steels.

The most popular ovens are:

  1. Pechurka. It is manufactured at the Teplodar factory and is used for heating small rooms. It can be used for cooking.
  2. Top Model. The design of the furnace with two rows of pipes of complex shape, allows you to create a powerful flow warm air and quickly warm up the cottage.
  3. Teplodar Rus, Termofor Cinderella, Tatra 14.
  4. Vertical ceramics. Except good properties heating has glass door through which you can look at the fire.
  5. Fireplace inserts Jotul, Tarnava. Their functions are the same as metal furnaces, but the design matches the closed type fireplace. The difference is the presence of a smoke collector, a damper and a forced convection system.
  6. Cassette fireplaces. The furnace for them is made of cast iron, in which cracks do not form, and they do not smoke like brick ones. Fireplaces are fireproof constructions and quickly heat up the room.

Electric heaters

These devices have always been bought among the first dacha arrangement. Many models with open heating elements can now only be found in sheds and attics. Modern heaters are conditionally divided into 4 groups:

  1. Oil heater. The principle of operation of the most common device is to transfer heat from oil heated by an electric coil to a metal case. Modern models have the ability to use several modes of operation. The heating of the room is not very fast, but, working in an economical mode, with the support of the heated stove, it heats a small room well all night.
  2. Electric convector. Heating occurs due to the movement of warm air passing through the heating elements. The device is controlled by thermostats for temperature control. The device turns on and off automatically. With their help, the room is quickly heated, which is very convenient to do immediately after arriving at the cottage in winter.
  3. Fan heaters. Heating of the room occurs quickly, but they burn oxygen and their long-term use is not recommended.
  4. Infrared heaters. it modern type electric heating, due to which not only the air is heated, but also all objects nearby. Heat from the devices comes immediately after switching on, but it is not recommended to stay directly in the zone of its action for a long time. Among all the options for electric heaters, they are the most efficient.

Heating in modern country houses

The principle of organizing a heating system for a summer house, thought out at the design stage of a house, is no different from heating systems for cottages and residential buildings. The decisive point is the presence of heating mains. And they usually don't. The second difference is the implementation of an economical intermittent heating option, rather than a daily one.

To do this, any system must provide: fast heating of the room, the required area, draining water from the pipeline during water heating and have a large capacity for efficient heating of houses with low thermal insulation properties.

The heating system in the country begins with the installation of the selected type of boiler and piping the house with pipes. Necessary work such as preparing a room for a boiler room, organizing devices necessary for ventilation of solid-state boilers, installing pipelines, starting up and testing is best entrusted to experienced professionals. The boiler can be electric, diesel, solid state and gas.

There are hybrid models of boilers that use solid fuel and electricity. Their cost is much higher and they are not always profitable for summer cottages, where they do not live permanently in the winter. The wood-fired boiler is the easiest to tolerate temperature fluctuations in winter.

It also belongs to the category of economical options. The convection type of wood-burning boiler is the most common. It has a low noise level, which makes it possible to install it in the basement. Big choice Modern models of boilers allow more and more use of water heating.

During construction big dacha it is the most the best option heating. Its essence lies in the possibility of constant circulation, heated to the desired temperature of water through pipes to batteries located in the house and back. For laying a pipeline, pipes made of metal, polypropylene or metal-plastic are most often used. They can be used for many decades only if properly preserved for the winter.

Another problem is the timely replacement of water filters, in the absence of which, the pipes quickly become clogged with various deposits of impurities contained in the water. As a coolant, not only water can be used, but also saline, glycerin, propylene glycol.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Glycerin, for example, does not harden and retains its fluid properties even at a temperature of 30 ° below zero, which saves pipes from rupture. He is very expensive. Propylene glycol is not toxic, but its specific heat capacity is worse than harmful ethylene glycol. In connection with the growth in the construction of summer cottages from modern materials the most correct way is to involve experienced specialists in the implementation of your own heating system.

In order to keep warm in the country in winter, it is necessary to choose one of the heating options. In this case, a very important point is the advance warming of the house. Otherwise, the efficiency decreases sharply and the consumption of energy used increases. And it will be difficult to warm up.

Winter in our country sometimes throws surprises in the form of abnormal cold weather. Yes, such that even a normally working central heating can not cope and it becomes cold in the apartment. And in some cities, it does not cope even with relatively slight frosts. In dachas, the situation is usually different - there you need to “catch up” with a comfortable temperature for the duration of your stay. In any case, you can't do without a heater. About what they are, how to choose, how to decide which heater is better, and we'll talk further.

Types of heaters

In apartments, heaters are most often used as an additional source of heat at a time when the main heating cannot cope and it is chilly in the room. At dachas, heaters are needed most often for the autumn-spring period, but there is rarely another source of heat, so the approach when choosing is a little different.

In general, there are four types of heaters:

Heaters for apartments and cottages must meet several requirements. First, they must be safe. This is perhaps the main selection criterion, especially if the family has small children. One of the key safety points is the presence of overheating protection - the equipment should automatically turn off when a critical temperature is reached. Secondly, the heater must be efficient and, it is highly desirable that it has the function of maintaining a given temperature regime. In addition to being convenient, it also saves electricity - the heater turns on and off, and does not work all the time. When deciding which heater is best for you, these points must be monitored. They are really important. From these points of view, as well as their efficiency, we will consider all types of heaters.

fan heaters

Electric fan heaters. AT this instrument There is a heating element and a fan. The fan drives air through the heating element, it heats up and carries heat into the room.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantage of this type of heaters is an almost instant start. After switching on, less than a minute passes and it starts to "drive" already warm air. The second positive point is the small size and weight, hence the high mobility. And the third plus is the low price. If you decide which heater is better to choose for quickly heating air in a small room, then a fan heater is perhaps unrivaled. These devices have some serious drawbacks:


Despite all these disadvantages, if you need to quickly warm the air (you will warm up the walls in this way for a very long time), there is no better way out.

Types and features

Fan heaters are available in different versions:

  • desktop - very compact, low power, suitable for local heating;
  • floor - larger, often look like a column, can have a moving part, spreading hot air throughout the room;
  • wall-mounted - more expensive models, often have a control panel;
  • ceiling - productive installations with a fairly large set of service functions.
NameType ofPower consumptionHeating powerType of heating element / their numberNumber of operating modes / additional functionsPrice
Polaris PCDH 2515Desktop1500 W1.0/1.5 kWceramic / 1 piece3 13$
Scarlett SC - FH53K06Desktop1800 W0.8/1.6 kWceramic / 1 piece3 /thermostat, rotation, overtemperature shutdown17$
De Longhi HVA3220Desktop2000 W1.0/2.0 kWHeating element / 1 pc2 / ventilation without heating28$
VITEK VT-1750 BKFull vertical2000 W1.0/2.0 kWceramic / 1 piece3 / thermostat24$
Supra TVS-18РWFloor standing vertical2000 W1.3/2.0 kWceramic / 1 pieceelectronic control, rotation, temperature maintenance, economy mode83$
Tefal SE9040F0Floor standing vertical2000 W1.0/2.0 kWceramic / 1 piece2 /electronic control, rotation, sleep timer, remote control140$
Scarlett SC - FH53006Desktop2000 W1.0/2.0 kWspiral3 / ventilation without heating, shutdown when overheating13$
Electrolux EFH/W-7020Wall2000 W1.0/2.0 kWceramic / 1 piece3 /electronic control, temperature control, for damp rooms65$
Polaris PCWH 2074DWall2000 W1.0/2.0 kWceramic / 1 piece3 /electronic control, shutdown timer, smooth temperature control49$
Timberk TFH W200.NNWall2000 W1.0/2.0 kWceramic / 1 piece3 / remote control, overheating protection42$

As you can see, there are different fan heaters, for different needs and for any wallet. In this segment, there is a very solid price difference between famous brands and lesser known ones, and the choice is very large. Moreover, there are even different stylistic solutions - from classics to hi-tech and other newfangled trends.

Convectors

Electric convectors have a principle of operation similar to fan heaters - air passes through the heating element, heats up and heat differences around the room. The difference is that the movement of air in convectors occurs due to the natural process of convection - the property of warm air to rise up and, in principle, fans are not needed for its movement. But the movement of air in such heaters is slow, and the cold room will warm up for a long time. To correct this shortcoming, fans are also built into the convectors, which, if necessary, activate the heating. Nevertheless, the main difference between convectors and fan heaters is that they can operate without a fan, that is, completely silent. At night, a very important quality.

Electric convectors externally - usually flat panels with gratings

Types of heating elements and thermostats

The heating element in convectors can be of different types:

  • The well-known dry fuel cells are a proven option, not very expensive. Aluminum plates are attached to the heating element tube - to improve heat transfer.
  • Needle - inexpensive, but has a short service life. It heats up almost instantly, but burns out very quickly.
  • Monolithic - the most expensive, but also the most durable. Its ribs are part of the body, when heated, they expand in proportion to the body, which prolongs the service life.

If we talk about which type of convector is better, then definitely with a monolithic heating element. Although it costs a lot, it will serve for a long time.

Every electric convector has a thermostat. They are thermostats of two types - mechanical and electronic. Mechanical ones are much cheaper, but they have a higher power consumption, they are distinguished by a solid error in maintaining the temperature, they click during operation, which can be very annoying. There are also quite simple mechanical thermostats. They do not maintain the temperature, but have two (sometimes more) modes of operation on different power. Switched manually - usually by turning the knob-regulator. Convector heaters of this type are the cheapest.

Electronic are accurate, silent, require very little electricity. In addition, such models can be controlled from the remote control.

Design features

By design, electric convectors are mainly hung on the wall - it can be under the window instead of a traditional radiator, or it can be in the place where you need it. Most models provide the ability to install on legs. They can come with a heater, or they can be sold separately.

The shape of electric convectors is parallelepipeds with different proportions. There are low and long - a good option under panoramic windows, if they are tall and narrow - they can be placed in a wall, there are such sizes as heating radiators - they are traditionally placed under the windows - to cut off the cold air from the windows.

There are waterproof cases (IP24 protection against splashes), which allows them to be used for heating bathrooms.

NamePower consumptionHeated areaThermostat typeHeating element typeInstallation methodPrice
Electrolux ECH/AG 500 PE500 W5 sq. melectronic, with LED display, off timermonolithicwall-mounted, low (plinth version)93$
Electrolux ECH/AG 1000MF1000 W5-10 sq. mmechanical, two power modes, air purification wall-mounted/with legs53$
Electrolux ECH/AG2 - 1000 EF1000 W10-15 sq.melectronic, thermal protection, air filterceramic monolithicwall-mounted/with legs70$
Aeg WKL 503 S500 W5 sq. melectronic, overheating protection93$
Aeg WKL 1503 S S1500 Wup to 15 sq. mStainless steel heater with copper heat exchangerwall-mounted, can be used in the bathroom (splash-proof)117$
Aeg WKL 3003 S3000 Wup to 30 sq. mmechanical, overheating protectionStainless steel heater with copper heat exchangerwall-mounted, can be used in the bathroom (splash-proof)187$
Ballu BEC/EZER-10001000 Wup to 15 sq. m.electronic, tip-over cut-out, overheating protection wall, floor50$
Ballu BEC/EM-15001500 Wup to 20 sq. mmechanicalmonolithicwall/floor44$
Ballu BEC/EVE-20002000 Wup to 25 sq. melectronic, LED display, ionizer, timermonolithicwall/floor80 $
Hyundai H-HV5-10-UI6091000 Wup to 16 sq. mmechanical, two powerneedlewall/floor44 $
Hyundai H-HV1-10-UI5621000 Wup to 13 sq. mmechanical, temperature maintenancemonolithicwall/floor65$
Hyundai H-HV3-10-UI5681000 Wup to 14 sq. melectronic, LCD display, humidifiermonolithicwall/floor80$

This type of heater can have the following useful options:


If we talk about which heater is better in this group, then of course - with a monolithic heater and an electronic thermostat. These models provide maintenance of the set temperature with high accuracy.

Oil coolers

This type of heater has been known for a long time. Has the tight case filled with technical oil. A heating element is immersed in oil. There may be several of them, they are usually turned on / off manually by turning the knob / switch.

Advantages and disadvantages

These heaters are good for both home and garden. They are very reliable, rarely break, have a safe design and relatively low prices.

Many people prefer this kind of heaters as they distribute soft warmth, even next to them there is no discomfort. Families with children also prefer such heaters - the design is safe, the body heats up to no more than 60 ° C, which is unpleasant when touched, but absolutely safe. What is not very good is its large mass, so that if it falls on a child, it can injure him. Quiet operation is also a plus.

The main disadvantage of oil radiators is the low rate of space heating. While the oil heats up, the body warms up, a considerable period of time passes. Only then does the air begin to heat up. And then the process goes slowly - only due to natural convection, which usually leads to the fact that it is warm near the heater, a little further - cold.

Design features

Oil radiators are usually made in the floor version, wall-mounted models are much less common. The mass of these devices is quite solid, so they have wheels for easy movement.

External design can be of three types. Most often, there are radiators that are somewhat reminiscent of old cast-iron batteries - an accordion. They also consist of sections welded together. The second type is one-two-three almost flat panels installed in parallel. Today, this type of oil radiators is not common, but it can be hung on the wall without legs.

Another option for wall-mounted oil radiators is very similar in shape to modern aluminum radiators. They can also be used as wall-mounted or stand on legs with wheels.

NamePower consumption / heating areaNumber of heating modesAdditional functionsMounting typeoverheat protectionPrice
Electrolux EOH/M-51572000 W / 10 sqm3 Rollover shutdownfloorthere is60$
Electrolux EOH M-6221 620х4752000 W / 27 sqm3 floorthere is65$
Scarlett SC-OH67B01-53000 W / 15 sq. m3 floorthere is30$
Scarlett SC-OH67B01-91000 W / 25 sq. m3 floorthere is52$
BALLU BOH/CL-071000 W / 20 sqm3 floorthere is50$
DeLonghi TRRS 09202000 W / 60 sqm3 floorthere is85$
Polaris PREM07152000 W / 15 m3 floorthere is55$
VITEK VT-1704W2000 W / 15 m2 2 heating elementsfloorthere is43$
LVI Yali 05 1301250 W / 12.5 m5 energy saving, air ionizerwallthere is514$
Caliber EMR - 20152000 W / 15 sq.m.3 floor/flatthere is60$

Heaters for home and summer cottages of this type are mostly simple and do not have a large set of additional functions. What is always present in a normal oil cooler is overheating protection. This is critical for heating elements and for safety, so you cannot do without this function. Rarely, more expensive models, the rollover cut-off function is encountered. This may be important if there are children in the family.

Deciding which of the oil heaters is better is not at all easy. There are no other criteria other than suitable power and good feedback users.

Infrared heaters

Infrared heaters have appeared relatively recently and have caused a whole wave of controversy. Some argue that they are useful, others - that they are harmful. It is difficult to decide which of them is right - the arguments of both sides seem convincing. Everyone, as usual, decides for himself which camp he belongs to.

How it works and what are the differences

The basis of an infrared heater is a long-wave emitter that produces electromagnetic waves in the same range as the sun - infrared. Such heat is perceived by our body as more pleasant - our body emits such waves, therefore it is comfortable to be near such devices. To focus the radiation in the body of the infrared heater there is a reflector - it increases the efficiency of heating a certain area.

The main difference of this type of equipment is that it does not heat the air, but the objects to which the rays are directed. And from their warm surface the air is already heated. If you find yourself in the zone of action of the rays, and your body will heat up. On the one hand, this is good, but on the other, not very good: it is warm in the zone of action of the rays, and cold outside. But you can well focus the heat in the desired area. Up to the point that you can take the device outside / veranda and create an island of comfortable temperature in the cold.

In general, it has been observed that when using infrared radiation, we feel comfortable with more low temperatures- 2-3 degrees lower than when heated by any other devices. This means less electricity is being used.

Mounting methods

In this category there are a variety of heaters both in shape and in the installation method. In addition, different sources of radiation are used - tubular emitters, infrared lamps, plates, carbon paste and much more. Can be mounted on the ceiling, walls, can stand on the floor. In general, the choice is really wide. Moreover, there are both models that can be used for full-fledged heating - stationary lamps, and for creating more comfortable conditions in a separate area. These are portable radiators and heaters in the form of rugs. Rugs are definitely a local device, no matter what the sellers say. They are convenient to warm the feet (there are floor mats) and some part of the room is wall-mounted. They can be hung near the workplace or bed and enjoy the warmth.

NameMounting methodPower consumptionHeating areaAdditional functionsManufacturerPrice
TEPLOPON ERGNA-0,7/220wallthermostat10-17 sq. moverheat protectionRussia Teplofon50$
TEPLOFON GLASSAR ERGN 0.4wall-mounted flat400 W overheat protectionRussia Teplofon55$
MISTER HIT THERMIC С-0,5wall-mounted flat500 W7-10 sq. m.overheat protectionRussia Mister Hit30$
MISTER HIT THERMIC S-1,2wall-mounted flat1200 W20-25 sq. m.overheating protection, infrared+covectionRussia Mister Hit40$
NOIROT CAMPAVER CMEP 09Hwall-mounted flat900 W digital control systemFrance940$
FRICO COMFORT ECVwall cassette, above the window300 W 120$
BALLU INFRARED FAR BIHP/F-1000floor, wall600/1000 Wup to 15 sq. m.overheat protection 45$
BALLU INFRARED FAR BIHP/F-1500floor, wall800/1500Wup to 20 sq. m.overheat protection 52$
ALMAK IK-5ceiling500 W5-6 sq. m.with external thermostatRussia46$
ALMAK IK-16ceiling1500 Wup to 15 sq. m.with external thermostatRussia74$
PION LUX 04ceiling400 W4-8 sq. m.work indicator light 42$
PION LUX 13ceiling1300 W13-26 sq. m.work indicator light 62$
MISTER HIT IR-0.7ceiling700 W8-10 sq. mwith external thermostatRussia34$

Choosing from this group which heater is better is not at all easier. It is necessary to focus on the tasks that he must perform. If you need to heat a specific place, the best option would be a floor model or a wall model. If the heating zone needs to be very small, a rug will do. To solve serious problems - as the main heating or additional, but for the whole room it is worth considering wall or ceiling options.

Please note that some models are paired with external thermostats, but they are selected separately and their price is not included in the price of the heater.

Which heater is better for the house, which one - for giving

The choice of a heater depends on the tasks that it must perform. For example, in a country house, it is usually required to quickly heat the air to a comfortable temperature. Moreover, the device should not be heavy, small-sized and mobile - so that it would be possible to take it away for the winter without any problems. These requirements are met by fan heaters, convectors and infrared heaters. Oil in this case is not the best choice- heat up for a long time, heavy.

For an apartment and a house, any of the described options is generally suitable. Choose the one that you like more than others or the one that best solves the tasks assigned to it. For example, a family has an allergic person, it is better to exclude active air movement (convection) in this case. Infra-red emitters and oil coolers hardly stimulate convection.

If there are small children in the house, air parameters are very important for them - there should be normal humidity, there should be enough oxygen. To solve this problem, models with ionizers and humidifiers are suitable, and choose the type yourself.

Convectors and infrared heaters can solve the problem of heating in general (serve as the main source of heat). You can create a system of oil heaters, but it will turn out to be inert, it will be difficult to regulate the temperature. Fan heaters for permanent use are not suitable, although there are models for long work- with monolithic heating elements and electronic control.

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