Do-it-yourself convection oven for a bath. Do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath

Many owners of a bath are thinking about how to make a stove for it on their own. This solution has many advantages, including savings, the ability to make a product with the required dimensions, and the high quality of the furnace. However, you should take into account a few nuances before taking on independent production.

Peculiarities

A bathhouse and a sauna are far from the same thing, so the stoves for them will be completely different. If it is necessary to create a high temperature in the sauna, while the heat must be hard and dry, then in the bath it is the other way around. The temperature also remains high, but due to the high humidity, the heat is soft and the temperature is almost not felt. Such procedures are useful for both physical and mental state.

For the most part, baths are made of wood, and the type of stove that will be built there also depends on this. For example, oak baths are designed to create high temperatures, and brick stoves are most often built there.

Linden buildings are extremely rare due to the fact that lime wood is a scarce product, and few people can afford such construction. The stoves here should not have strong power.. The heat should not be strong, since linden baths are classified as light. Of course, the simplest solution is to buy a ready-made stove designed for a certain area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bath. However, many refuse this decision.

First, you don't want to overpay. Indeed, a high-quality hand-built stove costs two to three times cheaper than the same option from a well-known manufacturer. Secondly, a DIY oven allows the craftsman to express himself. Thirdly, such a design can be made of any size and configuration, so that it fits perfectly into your bath. Custom-made stoves are very expensive, so it's much easier to make a stove yourself.

Pros and cons of homemade designs

Self-manufacturing of the furnace design has both its advantages and disadvantages. It is necessary to take into account both of them in order to soberly assess your strengths and understand whether it is worth taking on independent production or is it better not to save money and order a ready-made solution.

So, the advantages include the following provisions:

• Attractive appearance, which can be varied at will. Those who have experience in welding, as well as in everything related to the independent manufacture of things, can make a truly unique design that is not inferior in beauty to factory counterparts.
• economy. Homemade baths, arranged in the right way, are not inferior to factory ones in terms of fuel or electricity savings, if this option is chosen.
• High performance. A properly designed and built sauna stove is highly efficient so that no heat is wasted - everything is transferred to the steam room.

• Ease of maintenance. Homemade stoves are easier to maintain, because the person who makes them knows where everything is, which places need to be cleaned more thoroughly, and which can only be lightly swept.
• Durability. Like factory, do-it-yourself ovens last for more than one year, and if we are talking about brick, then it can last for several decades.
• Space saving. Due to the variability of the parameters, it becomes possible to rationally fit the stove structure into the bath, while not leaving too large gaps or taking up unreasonably much space.

As for the shortcomings, there are not so many of them, but still they are:

• If a homemade stove is made of stone, then it may be too heavy. This will require additional strengthening of the foundation, which will entail additional costs.
• There is a need to protect the environment, since the amateur stove-maker does not always have the necessary knowledge on how to reduce the temperature outside the stove.
• It is necessary to carry out all work with a high degree of professionalism, since an incorrectly made stove will not properly warm up the steam room and generally cause more problems than joy.

The difference between a furnace and a boiler

Many mistakenly believe that a furnace and a boiler are one and the same. Indeed, it is somewhat easier to make a boiler than a furnace, but this does not eliminate the disadvantage that the boiler will never create the required temperature in the bath. The main purpose of the furnace is heat transfer. It dissipates heat around or transports it to a certain place, but does not concentrate it within itself.

With the boiler, everything is exactly the opposite. It pumps heat inside, and then transfers it through the pipes. However, the lion's share of the heat is lost in the process of passing through the pipes, which causes the temperature to drop dramatically, so the boiler is unable to properly heat the bath.

Thus, the choice in favor of a furnace, rather than a boiler, is obvious, although it turns out to be many times more difficult to manufacture. It is important that you are not deceived by meeting in numerous instructions assurances that the boiler and the stove are one and the same.

Kinds

Today, homemade stoves are divided according to many parameters. Among them are not only materials, but also the location of the furnace, the presence or absence of fuel, the method of heating the heater. In order to properly evaluate the advantages and disadvantages of each of the available options, it is necessary to study them all.

It is important that not all of these types are available for the novice master to perform. Most require a certain amount of experience and knowledge regarding how exactly such structures should be made, what to focus on. Knowing what kind of stove you want in your bath will help you avoid people wasting time and effort adding options that will not be used in the future. For example, a steam generator or tank is not always necessary. The same goes for the dimmer. with which you can set the temperature.

The latter option is available only to either professional stove-makers or people who are well versed in the nuances of such technological devices and decide to build an electric stove.

closed and open

The division of sauna stoves into closed and open is a fundamental factor on which the type of heat they supply fundamentally depends. So, in closed furnaces, stones are covered with a lid. This is done so that the stones do not cool down longer, giving off heat only as needed. Whatever the temperature, in baths with a closed oven, the steam will be moist, soft, light.

In Russian baths you can find similar heaters much more often.

As for open ovens, they are more characteristic of a sauna than a bath. They give a hard heat, the humidity is almost at zero level. With all this, the stones are heated almost instantly to high temperatures.

It is easier to build such an oven, since you don’t have to work on making a lid, however, for a bath, this option is not the best because of dry hot steam. In the bath, wet steam is welcome.

By material

The division by material is the most obvious of all. There are not many options. To date, only metals and bricks are available for self-production.

brick

The dream of many owners of baths is precisely a brick oven. This is due not only to its traditional and solid appearance, but also to its durability, the ability to retain heat for a long time and other positive features. However, in order to lay out such a stove, you have to work hard. Laying takes a lot of time, besides, it requires some experience. Also it will be necessary to purchase special materials: an ordinary brick will not work.

An important disadvantage of brick oven structures is their weight. A small stove designed to heat an average bath can weigh up to 300 kilograms, so the foundation under such a stove will need to be strengthened. However, this drawback is redeemed by the fact that such a stove is suitable for heating and a two-story bath, and not just to create a sufficient temperature in the steam room. In addition, aesthetically, such a stove looks most attractive precisely because of its traditional appearance.

Many owners of baths cannot imagine their steam room without such an impressive design.

metal

Metal furnaces are a more common option due to the fact that it is much easier to build such a structure yourself. All you need is sheet metal, tools for cutting and fastening it, and welding skills. Thanks to such a simple set, metal options have gained such wild popularity among amateur stove-makers.

However, the furnace can not be made from any metal. For example, aluminum, which is so easy to work with, is categorically not suitable for these purposes. Even in a chilled state, it bends easily, and if it is heated, it will warp and bend strongly. As a result, the stove will lose its shape after the first heating.

Not suitable for these purposes and copper. Copper furnaces are excellent in operation, but this non-ferrous metal itself is quite expensive, as a result of which it turns out to be cheaper to buy a finished unit than to mount it manually.

Steel

Steel stoves are the easiest to make due to the fact that steel is a malleable material, but not too much. Steel sheets are easy to process, but hard to bend by hand, so they are more preferable for building furnaces. But practice shows that steel furnaces have many disadvantages.

So, the steel is heated to the point where the heat becomes uncomfortable and hard, which makes it unpleasant to take such a bath. It is impossible to somehow eliminate this drawback, since this is the cost of using a steel case.

Among other things, a steel stove emits harmful infrared radiation, which generally negates the entire beneficial effect of the bath.

Steel stoves cool down quickly, although they heat up quickly. It will take constant feeding to keep the temperature at least approximately the same level.

You will also have to keep track of what kind of wood or other sources of combustion are used to maintain heat. If you use a heat source that has too high a combustion temperature, the stove may become deformed and no longer look attractive.

Cast iron

Cast iron stoves are wildly popular, since cast iron among all metals is most well suited for making stoves. This is due to some specific features inherent in cast iron.

So, the cast iron stove heats up quickly enough. Not as fast as steel, of course, but faster than brick. At the same time, she also warms up the steam room quickly. Compared to a brick oven design, a cast-iron one “works” twice as fast.

Cast iron stoves keep the temperature for a long time, releasing heat that is comfortable for a person. The heat is soft, the steam is moist. At the same time, there is no unfavorable infrared radiation, which can adversely affect health. In terms of service life, a cast-iron stove can be compared with a brick one..

Cast iron is not afraid of high temperatures, so in theory it is possible to create any temperature in the bath. Cast iron structures do not deform even as a result of impacts, not to mention the effects of heat. In addition, cast iron units do not rust, which is an additional plus.

By energy carrier

As for what you can heat the bath with, there are many options. Among them are both traditional and modern. It should be noted in advance that the manufacture of electric or combined ovens requires special skill. In the first case, knowledge of engineering may be required, in the second, the ability to combine several techniques at once in one product.

As a rule, for home sauna stoves, fuel options are chosen that do not require a lot of money in the future. Energy-saving technologies or recycling of raw materials are used. This is especially true for wood burning stoves.

Some people heat the bathhouse with chipboards left after the repair, but it is strongly not recommended to do this, since it is still healthier to choose real wood (oak, birch) for health.

Electrical

Electric bath stoves appeared not so long ago. Today, factory analogues are widespread. Few people dare to make such a design on their own, fearing to make a mistake and ruin expensive raw materials. However, much more often than electric furnaces, you can find electric fireplaces. It does not make sense to make just an electric stove, because with moderate electricity consumption, it will heat up the steam room for too long, and for fast heating, you will have to use too much electricity, which will negatively affect utility bills.

It is better to use the possibilities of electrical recharge only to maintain the existing temperature in the room. Then a lot of electricity will not be spent, and you won’t have to fight over a full-fledged electric oven, and maintaining the temperature at the right level will become much easier.

Wood

A favorite option, which is preferred by the majority, are wood-burning stoves. They are recognized as the best option for a bath, as the vapors from real wooden firewood are good for health. Building a wood stove is the easiest: there are many schemes and ways in which you can do this.

Stone wood stoves work best, however, cast-iron counterparts are also quite acceptable. So, a wood-fired brick oven does not cool down for a long time, and if you use long-burning firewood, then you can maintain the desired temperature at least all night.

However, there may be problems in order to fold such an option correctly. To do this, you will need the help of a professional stove-setter, and there are very few of them on the market. A wood burning stove can be made from steel or cast iron. If you have some experience, choose cast iron. It is more difficult to work with it, but the oven will be more reliable.

Gas

Today, gas stoves are almost as in demand as wood stoves. Combined options are often made, in which the stove can be fed with both wood and gas. However, such popularity of gas baths is explained not only by their ability to quickly and efficiently heat the air in the steam room.

Gas is one of the cheapest types of fuel, so it will not take much money to buy it. Among other things, a gas stove does not have to be cleaned and cleaned as often as a wood stove, since the gas cannot clog the chimney or clog the fuel chamber.

Self-production of a gas stove is a rather complicated procedure, since many requirements will have to be taken into account, but this guarantees a high safety of using the stove in the future.

If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to refuse to make a gas sauna stove, otherwise the bath may simply turn into a gas chamber.

According to the location of the firebox

When bath stoves were first invented, the firebox was located inside the stove and there was no thought that it could be located in any other way. However, over time, people realized that small improvements can completely change the stove design itself, as well as the air quality and heat in the steam room. This is how portable fireboxes appeared. To date, there are only two options for the location of the firebox - built-in and remote.

Each of the options has its pros and cons, so it is impossible to unequivocally determine which option is better. Each of them is suitable in a particular case, often remaining the only possible one.

built-in

The built-in firebox is used only in cases where it is necessary to save space. It happens that you have to give up the presence of a dressing room when it comes to a very tiny bath. However, this is where all the advantages of this option end.

The cons of a built-in firebox are many times more than the pros. So, the location of the firebox inside the steam room contributes to the fact that oxygen burns out in the room, which is already scarce there. The only way to remedy the situation is to improve the ventilation system.. There will indeed be more oxygen, but this will lead to the fact that the temperature will drop significantly and the furnace will have to be heated more. As a result, oxygen will burn out again. It turns out a vicious circle.

Also, the prospect of throwing firewood if the firebox is inside the steam room does not seem tempting, since coal that accidentally jumps out can cause the entire bathhouse to flare up like a match.

remote

A remote firebox is much more functional, but it requires enough space for it. In this case, the chamber itself, into which firewood is thrown, is located in a room adjacent to the steam room. The advantages are obvious: there is no risk of dying from a lack of oxygen, firewood is thrown from another room, so the risk of a fire is also minimized. Whatever the temperature in the bath, the microclimate will still be comfortable, since the precious oxygen will not burn out and the heat will not seem hard.

A significant minus is only that the bath must necessarily consist of at least two rooms, that is, have a larger area. However, this minus can be called a minus only with a stretch, since few people make a bathhouse consisting only of a steam room.

Another important note: it is better to place a fire extinguisher near the firebox just in case.

According to the method of heating the heater

This item involves the placement of stones relative to the heat source. Distinguish furnaces of periodic and constant heating. In constant heating furnaces, which are more common today, the stones do not come into direct contact with the escaping combustion products. They are placed in a special container, which is located in the steam room itself. Stones of the middle fraction remain clean, you can pour a little water on them to make the steam more humid. So, the maximum heating temperature of the stones reaches 400 degrees, the steam turns out to be dry and hard, more typical for a Finnish sauna.

The stove of periodic heating looks completely different. Here, the smoke from the burning fuel passes directly through the stones, further exiting through the chimney. This imposes certain restrictions: for example, you can not wash in the bath until all the fuel burns out and all the carbon dioxide comes out otherwise you might get burned. Stones in this case are heated to extremely high temperatures - 1000 degrees. Steam is formed as soon as you pour water on the stones. By the way, stones for such heaters should be large and rounded.

According to the presence of the tank

Often baths are equipped with a water-heating tank on the side. So the heat from the side walls of the stove does not disappear in vain, but heats up the water in the tank, which can later be used at will. The tank on the side also acts as a heat exchanger, thanks to which an optimal microclimate is achieved in the dressing room and steam room.

Another purpose of the tank is to heat the rest of the building. It happens that the bath is located on the basement of the house. After the stove has been heated, it warms up the water well, which is then carried around the house through a pipe system.

Such impromptu heating radiators can be made with your own hands, if you further study how such a system works, what it is based on. Welding an ordinary tank on the side of the stove or at the chimney will not be difficult.

With steam generator

As for the device of the steam generator, this solution allows you to fill the room with heavy wet steam, like in a hammam, and without resorting to a complete alteration of the stove. The most interesting solution is to install a mini-steam generator in addition to a homemade sauna stove, which will save space, while doing its job just as well.

In addition to the above, there are several more varieties of sauna stove structures that do not fall under any classification. One of them can serve as a mobile oven. It has a much smaller size and weight, due to which it can be moved relatively freely from room to room. Mobile stoves are usually equipped with a built-in firebox, since there would be more problems with a remote one.

Upper burning bath, or feeding - a design in which combustion begins from the upper tier of stacked firewood, gradually spreading to the underlying rows. Since ancient times, such structures have been used for Russian baths, since they make it possible to avoid serious heat losses at the very beginning of combustion.

Fuel exhaustion occurs gradually and smoldering occurs already at a time when the steam room is hot enough, and all that is required is to maintain the temperature.

What to look for when choosing?

Before you stop your final choice on any of the options, you need to evaluate it according to several parameters. Such careful preparation is required due to the fact that the construction of a furnace (especially a brick one) is a troublesome task and requires financial investments, so it is important not to make a mistake.

The assessment is made on the basis of the most obvious and common factors, and these affect both the choice of material and design.

Heating rate

How quickly the oven heats up is crucial when it comes to a sauna for year-round use. If in summer there is practically no risk that the sauna room will not warm up well enough, then in winter this probability is extremely high.

So, in summer you can heat a bath in 3-4 hours, while in winter you will need to spend 8-12 hours on it.

It is also important how well the stove keeps heat. For example, a steel structure warms up well, but cools down just as quickly, which negatively affects the time during which you can wash in the bath. The controversial question is whether it is worth heating the bath for 3 hours in order to be able to take a steam bath in it for just an hour. It will take too much fuel to maintain the temperature, which is irrational from a financial point of view.

Layout

Heater heating method

The contact of stones with smoke from heat sources plays an important role, since it depends on how soon you can wash in the bath. This affects the temperature and humidity of the air in the bath, as well as the microclimate. Some varieties are more suitable for saunas, others for Russian baths, but recently combined options have become the most popular, when you can vary the humidity of the air at will. For this, intermittent heating heaters with a miniature steam generator are most suitable.

However, if you need to receive steam only of a certain type (for example, if you are a fan of the Finnish sauna and only it), then it would be more logical to save money and build a heater without additions, but only one that would be provided with the necessary parameters.

Fuel used

Decide in advance how you want to feed your stove. The complexity and high cost of manufacturing the stove largely depends on this. So, the simplest option to perform is a wood-burning design, since here you do not have to resort to technical improvements.

The best solution would be to combine the ability to be fed from several power sources in one furnace. For example, when one runs out, you can use another. The most popular is the combination of fueling with gas and wood.

In addition to these, there are several other factors that are not so extensive, but also significant. These include the temperature power of the oven.

It does not make sense to make a stove that is too powerful for a small bath, but a design that is too small will not cope with heating a large room. Be sure to correlate the quadrature of the bath with the heat output of your product.

The temperature of the walls of the furnace unit is also not in last place in importance. Not so long ago, the so-called "cold" stoves appeared. They take much longer to warm up, but their outside temperature never exceeds 60 degrees, while inside it can be several hundred degrees higher.

Blueprints

Drawing up a drawing is an important and responsible step. Without proper education, it is almost impossible to make a competent drawing, and without the right drawing it is impossible to build a good furnace. Fortunately, there is a simple solution - use a ready-made scheme. They are freely available in abundance, so you can choose the most suitable one.

Another option is to have a drawing made according to your own measurements. This solution has several advantages:

• such a unit will ideally fit in the niche of the bath that you have taken under it;
• there will be all the necessary additions (for example, a tank);
• the connection diagram of parts, as a rule, is immediately indicated on the drawing, so you will avoid difficulties.

The cost of such a custom option is not so high, so you can afford it. The money spent on the purchase of the scheme will allow you to save a lot of effort, time and nerves in the future.

materials

Because of this, the list was reduced to only two positions: brick and metal. Stone ovens were and remain the most preferred option for Russian baths, however, metal is much cheaper and easier to work with. This led to the fact that metal structures are gradually replacing brick ones. For self-production, it is also better to prefer a metal unit, since it is easier to do it yourself than to lay out a classic brick structure.

Brick ovens are beautiful, with high heat dissipation. Due to the fact that it is difficult to make them yourself, many refuse to build them, however, with sufficient experience, a similar design can be made by yourself.

Simple ovens look like this:

• A simple stove without frills looks dignified and interesting, despite the fact that a lot of time and effort was not spent on its construction. Such laying is possible even for a beginner.
• A more complex version, laid out by a professional master. Such beauty requires professionalism, but the result is worth it. It turned out a full-fledged Russian stove.

As you can see, the brick is aesthetically attractive, but working with it requires some skill. Simple metal units are made by homegrown craftsmen throughout Russia, while the furnaces are no worse than factory ones. There are both products as simple as possible, and with forged elements.

Approximately this is the appearance of hand-made metal structures. The most simple unit with a heater and everything you need will not take up much space. This stove has a built-in firebox, so it is designed to be installed in the smallest sauna. A home-made stove design with forged elements and a tank for heating water will fit perfectly into any bath.

Making forged parts will require blacksmithing skills or they can be custom made. It is up to you to choose which material suits you best.

Tools

To make a metal furnace, you will need the following tools:

• welding machine for hermetic connection of parts;
• grinder with a diamond disc for cutting metal sheets;
• drill for making small holes;
• building level, mounting tape, protractor and marker for marking;
• disc for grinding metal.

For a brick oven, more diverse tools are used:

• various trowels and spatulas for applying a mortar that holds the bricks together;
• a pick for giving the bricks the necessary shape and chipping off excess pieces;
• laser building level for estimating contour lines;
• plumb line for assessing verticals;
• building "triangle" with dimensions of 40x40x57 cm;
• a rule for removing excess mortar and leveling bricks;
• buckets and pallets in which mortars will be diluted for bonding bricks.

Design

Homemade ovens can come in a variety of finishes that define their appearance. However, everything depends not only on this. First of all, the beauty and aesthetic appeal are determined by the accuracy with which all work is carried out.

The most interesting may be the following presented home-made options:

As you can see, there are no metal products among them, since brick units look much more advantageous in design.

Where to install?

The answer to this question is obvious: in the steam room. However, in reality, everything is not so simple. If the unit with a built-in firebox just needs to be installed in the steam room, then with a remote one - only against the wall adjacent to the room into which the firebox will go. Also, the firebox can have access to the street.. Then it is important to evaluate where you want to see the exit, and install the stove there.

The decision about where the installation will be carried out must be made at the stage of laying the foundation. This measure is due to the foundation in this place will need to be well strengthened, otherwise the floor simply will not withstand the weight of the furnace structure and will fall apart. It will also be necessary in the plan to lay a mounting hole for the stove, if it has an external firebox. Otherwise, there will be serious problems with the installation.

Preparatory work

At the preparation stage, it is necessary to prepare not only the materials from which the stove will be directly built, but also the bath room itself. If you do not do all this with sufficient quality, then there is a high probability that the stove will not work properly. For example, heat may not be supplied where it is needed, or there may be problems with the release of smoke, which can be hazardous to health.

The first step is to search for or order a drawing (possibly self-made). The drawing must contain all the necessary information about the furnace.

Metal preparation

This procedure is carried out after all the details are cut to the desired size. It is necessary to release those elements of the future unit that heat up the most. These include the sidewalls, the top and the firebox door. They are in contact with burning fuel.

Release is done as follows. First, the sheets are red-hot, after which they should not be cooled quickly. It is best to leave the metal sheets to cool slowly.. You don't need to put them in cold water. After carrying out these manipulations, you may notice that the parts are warped, have lost their original shape. To return them to a look close to the original, use a hammer, knocking the parts to the desired shape. If the hammer does not help or the parts have become larger, then just saw off the protruding parts.

This preventive measure prevents the stove from warping during the first use.

Calculations

All values ​​​​of the stove must be given on the drawings. We are talking about how much area of ​​the foundation needs to be strengthened and how much of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls needs to be protected. Based on the dimensions of the furnace, it can be said that the place of strengthening the foundation should extend beyond the edges of the furnace by 30 cm. For example, when making a square metal unit with dimensions of 60x60 cm, you will need to strengthen a place of 120x120 cm (30 + 60 + 30 cm on each side).

The wall must be insulated 50 cm above and beyond the oven. For example, with a stove height of 80 cm, you will need to make insulation 1.3 m high from the floor. It will also be necessary to lay a metal sheet in the place where the furnace will be installed. This is done so that in which case the fallen coal does not cause a fire. The metal layer should protrude 1 m beyond the plane of the door.

markup

Before starting work on cutting metal, all components will need to be marked. For this, again, the data given in the drawing is used.

Sometimes the markup is done on the go, when the unit is made up of rectangular and square elements, but even in this case it's better to draw the borders with a marker. In the future, it will be easier for you to cut out the necessary details, following the outlined lines.

Room preparation

This refers to the laying of metal sheets on the floor and walls, the calculation of which was given in one of the previous paragraphs. It is best to choose stainless steel for these purposes.. Despite the fact that under the weight of the furnace it will sag, there is an advantage that completely redeems this fact - you will not encounter metal damage by rust, which can greatly worsen its appearance and condition.

Strengthening the foundation

There is an alternative way: choose an electric stove, which, due to the lack of fuel, will not weigh as much as gas or wood-burning options. However, this also comes with some costs.

Manufacturing

The device of a metal furnace does not cause such difficulties as a brick one, so it is logical to start the description with a simpler option.

To make a simple pipe stove, use the following step-by-step guide:

• The easiest way is to make a unit from a log. To do this, you will need a piece of pipe at least 50 cm in diameter. The amount of cut depends on how high you want your stove to be.
• Cut out a blower with dimensions of 0.05x0.2 m in the pipe.
• Cut an opening for the firebox with dimensions of 25x20 cm.
• Next, weld the fasteners for the rods that make up the heater. Fittings with a diameter of 1 cm are suitable for this.

• Fasten the wire mesh heater.
• Cut another steam hole opposite the heater.
• Fill the stove with stones. It is forbidden to use granite or any stones containing mica for these purposes. Soapstone is perfect.
• Weld a cover on top of the pipe in diameter.
• Cut a hole in the lid for the chimney. The diameter of the chimney pipe should be about 15 cm.
• Weld the flue pipe.

Installation of a brick oven will require much more materials, effort and time. Depending on the option you choose, you will need a certain amount of bricks. Pay attention to the fact that the brick is fire resistant.

Pay attention to the following diagram. It shows the order of the bricks. Follow it to build the furnace correctly. It is also possible to make a lining of a metal structure with a brick. This gives the effect that a brick stove is installed in your bath, and not a metal one.

thermal insulation

The thermal insulation of the stove itself is necessary, if only because during the combustion process a lot of thermal energy is dissipated in the surrounding space. The owners of the baths are trying with all their might to level this shortcoming in order to rationally use all the available heat.

Thermal insulation can be carried out in several ways:

• Through the installation of protective wall metal screens. They will reflect heat. It makes sense to place such a screen around the heater located in the steam room. Then all the heat will not be dissipated anywhere, but will be pumped into the steam room.
• Brick shielding. In this case, the thickness of the brick should be equal to half the standard, that is, it is optimal to use masonry from half bricks.

Protection for walls and floors, which is made of sheet metal and was described above, also serves as a kind of thermal insulation measure.

Safety

When you are in the bath, there are two real dangers: getting burned or getting burned. To prevent burns, they came up with a special material - basalt cardboard.. It is laid around the heaters so that an awkward movement does not lead to a severe burn, because in an atmosphere of hot air, touching the surface of the same temperature as air can cause a serious burn of the second degree.

To avoid the danger of intoxication, it is advised not to make such a stove, the blower of which goes directly into the steam room. It is best to take it to an adjacent room or to the street.

Also you need to check if the ash is removed before "pumping", since combustion products are capable of emitting carbon monoxide, which is odorless. Understanding that you are suffocating them is not easy.

Experts share some tricks that will make the process of making a furnace much easier:

• Don't neglect the drawing. Without it, there is a high probability of making a mistake and building an ugly and inefficient furnace design.
• Be sure to do all the work to prepare the room, as this will reduce the risk of fire.
• Furnace repairs need to be done on time to avoid having to replace the existing stove too soon due to the inability to fix the problem.
• If you plan to use the stove not only for a bath, but also for heating, provide a piping system.
• If you are not sure that you can build a decent quality oven, give up this idea. A sober assessment of your abilities can save you energy, time and money and preserve your self-esteem.

Beautiful examples

• A self-made black metal unit with a twisted heater looks interesting and unusual. This design can decorate any steam room, regardless of its size.
• If the stove does not look very attractive, this does not mean that it does not serve well. This image clearly shows the option available in most baths. The owners did not spend much time on finishing, concentrating on the functioning of the furnace.

• A brick-clad metal stove looks traditional, but it’s not so difficult to make it. The brick salary in this case acts as a heat-insulating shield, allowing the temperature to remain at its original level longer.

Metal furnaces have a high heat transfer coefficient, do not require a powerful foundation and warm up much faster than brick ones, which is why they are often installed in baths. It is not difficult to make them with your own hands - for this it is enough to have welding skills and have thick-walled metal at hand.

Boot shaped metal oven

The direct exit of smoke sharply reduces the efficiency of the furnace, which is why our design provides for internal heater, delaying the direct exit of combustion products and accumulating heat. This allows for maximum heating of the room in a fairly short period of time and significantly reduces fuel costs.

Manufacturing steps

1. To get a stove in the form of a boot with a heater, we need four metal boxes. The first and second boxes will be joined to each other using a detachable connection and form the furnace itself. In the first of them there will be a firebox, in the second (“shaft” of the boot) - a hole for the chimney. The third box with stones will be inside the furnace. The fourth removable stainless steel water box is installed separately.

2. To avoid errors during assembly, the sheets of metal are first tacked together, starting from the bottom of the sheets. Final welding is carried out only after the complete assembly of the product and its verification. To avoid the penetration of smoke into the room, the connection of the elements must be of very high quality.

3. We collect box for stones 50 × 50 cm in size. So that the top sheet does not move out during welding, it is better to install it on a tripod with a magnet attached to it.

4. In order to grab the lid and bottom, a thin metal square can be placed under them to ensure their stability.

5. The bottom of the stone box, on which the entire shock load of the fire will go, is made of a sheet of thickness not less than 10 mm.

6. Using a grinder, cut out the top of the box door for stove. Its size must be sufficient for steam to escape.

7. At the bottom of the third box, in which the stones will be, are cut out 2-4 holes for pipes(the number of pipes can be arbitrary) at a distance of at least 5 cm from the bottom of the cube to improve traction. A cube with heavy stones will be installed on them.

8. Cut out firebox hole size 28×28 cm.

9. At the top of the first box we make hole for inserting a second cube. We cut and weld along the perimeter of this hole on three sides two plates 4 cm in size to strengthen the incision site and a corner in the left, fourth part. The first three strips are attached to the inner surface, the second - to the outer part of the cut with a little mixing. A small gap is left between the plates for inserting the second box.

10. One plate is welded to the firebox and heater doors to reinforce them. The firebox is separated from the ashpit by a grate of steel bars 10-12 cm. To ensure complete combustion of the fuel, it is necessary to provide a better air flow, so the grate is welded along the blower channel.

11. In the second box on the pipes welded in its lower part the third cube is inserted in which the stones will be located.

12. To strengthen the internal cube for stones, small kerchiefs.

13. For cleaning soot a small hole is made above the door, next to which bolts are welded on 4 sides to install the door. Before its installation for tightness, it is wrapped asbestos thread and screwed brass nuts that protect the metal from souring.

14. A cover with a hole for a chimney 12 × 12 cm (half a brick in size) is welded to the top of the heater. To install it, it is welded to the hole skirt made of metal. The cube with the stone box installed is inserted into the first one.

The design of the furnace may be different. Order cutting blanks stoves with an open heater and a built-in water tank are shown in the following figure:

Installation of a metal furnace

To protect the metal from rapid burnout and increase the heat transfer of the furnace, its lining: lining the bottom and sides of the structure with refractory (chamotte) bricks. A metal structure with an intensive firebox can become red-hot, so it is located at a distance of at least 1 m from flammable objects. Adjacent walls are plastered, faced with bricks or sheathed with sheet iron.

Cutting the floor beams to create a hole for the chimney is undesirable, so it must be provided during the construction of the building. Availability knees in the chimney can lead to the formation of a significant layer of soot in the horizontal sections of the pipe. If for some reason the creation of a knee is still necessary, it is made collapsible, which greatly facilitates the process of cleaning the chimney.

Currently, there are many metal sauna stoves on the market, but they are all expensive. If you have good experience in metal welding, then you can make an iron stove in a bath with your own hands. In this article, we will describe in detail, attaching appropriate photos, how to do this, having our own dimensions and drawings.

Differences between metal stoves for baths and saunas

Steam rooms in the bath and sauna are significantly different from each other. The sauna is accompanied by a high temperature - over 85 ºС. Such indicators make it impossible to greatly increase the humidity as well, since skin burns are inevitable. At the same time, the broom crumbles under such conditions in just 5 minutes. Therefore, the humidity is adjusted to 5-15%. The Russian bath is characterized by a temperature in the region of 55-65 ºС, which makes it possible to raise the relative humidity to 50-60%.

To create certain conditions in the steam room, different stoves are used, and different approaches to their installation are also used. If a sauna is being equipped, then it will be necessary to observe the maximum contact area of ​​​​the furnace body with air and ensure rapid circulation of air flows along the walls.

It all comes down to heating the air in the steam room as soon as possible. A small open heater, located above the firebox, is able to heat the stones up to 200-250 ºС. It allows you to get a little steam - as a rule, this is enough for a sauna, because you need to achieve only 15% humidity.

In the Russian bath, a different microclimate is created - low temperatures are reached, and a lot of steam is produced. At the same time, it should consist of very small droplets heated to 130-150 ºС - such steam is called “dry”. Such a microclimate gives the body lightness and strength. "Dry" steam can only be obtained by heating stones to values ​​​​of more than 500 ºС. To achieve such indicators, the stones are placed in a furnace, that is, in a closed heater.

Do-it-yourself stoves for a Russian bath

The most important thing when making do-it-yourself metal sauna stoves according to the drawings is to take into account that it is impossible to maintain the desired temperature within 60-65 ºС with heated metal walls (read: “Drawings of a metal sauna stove - we build a stove with our own hands”). You will definitely have to reheat, which is accompanied by the emission of strong IR waves, in which it is quite difficult to be near the stove.

There are two ways to solve this problem:

• Make a furnace lining. The process consists in lining the firebox from the inside with refractory bricks. It is enough to lay on the edge, while the thickness of the lining will be 6 cm, although narrow fireclay, 3 cm thick, is also found. Be that as it may, the heating of the steel walls is insignificant, the heater warms up most of all. Therefore, you should immediately design the furnace so that it is of increased size, because most of its volume is allocated to the lining. The disadvantage of this method is that hot smoke is produced as a result, which reduces fire safety. It is best to cool it by installing a tank or heater on a pipe. A little more difficult is to install a heating shield, passing through which the smoke cools down to 80-120 ºС.
• Install brick screen around the iron stove for the bath. It is assembled from ceramic bricks, while windows are left in the wall for mounting doors, which will allow in the future to control the level of air heating. It can be concluded that this option is the best due to the possibility of temperature control, however, it is less practical, since the rear wall overheats very much, so it is necessary to include heat-resistant steel in the design. In this case, it turns out that for a longer service life of an iron sauna stove, you need to choose a rather thick metal. As practice shows, it is better to install it in the upper and lower parts of the firebox.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the seams. A home-made iron stove in the bath quite often begins to burn out precisely from low-quality seams. In production conditions, this problem is solved using a bent structure. On top of the oven, they try to minimize the number of seams.

When making a metal stove for a bath with your own hands, it will be practically impossible for you to bend 6-10 mm steel, therefore, as a rule, it remains to make extremely high-quality seams.

What is the size of the stove and where is it better to put it?

The required volume of stones is determined by the size of the steam room and the quality of the insulation. The value, as a rule, varies from 20 to 40 kg per 1 cubic meter of the room. Naturally, the more of them, the easier it is to generate the required amount of steam.

Due to the fact that different stones differ in density, with the same mass they will occupy a different volume. It was determined that for a steam room with a volume of 12-14 m 3, it will be necessary to install a heater 30×40×30 cm. These dimensions can be slightly adjusted in different situations.

When making a metal sauna stove with your own hands, you will need to choose the individual volume of the heater, based on the size of the stove. In order to avoid mistakes, it is better to build on the finished drawings. When using the experimental approach, it should be taken into account that the volume of the furnace should exceed that of the heater by approximately 30-50%.

Before you build a stove in a bath, you should calculate the best location of the heater in the firebox. From practice, it became clear that it is best to place it on top, near the back wall, where the temperature is highest.

It is worth remembering that the heater will need to be serviced, and it should be equipped so that water can be supplied there. The hatch is best positioned so that it is possible to easily reach the farthest edge with your hand, and so that water can be supplied without the possibility of getting burned.

As a rule, tubes are added to the heater, divorced inside the container, which would reach all the stones. From the water supply side, the tube is equipped with a funnel. After diluting the pipes, they are lined with stones. After water is supplied through the pipes, it hits the stones in the heater and turns into steam.

Drawings of homemade steel sauna stoves

Consider the version of the furnace, which will be relevant for a steam room with a volume of 2 × 3 × 2.3 m. Steel sheets 3 mm thick are used for its construction.

To start the combustion process, the design provides for an additional air duct, which originates from the street. To prevent the steel from bending during heating, stiffening ribs in the form of corners are attached to the sides at the top of the firebox.

Consider another scheme by which you can make metal bath stoves with your own hands. These are models with air intake from the top of the firebox. They are also called furnaces with afterburning gases. On the back wall, a steel platinum is welded to it. Air enters the furnace from under the grate, and is supplied through the air ducts going into the gap between this plate and the rear wall of the furnace.

Such an interesting design copes with two tasks at the same time: it cools the back wall, preventing it from burning out, and also the air is supplied already warmed up to the upper part, where very hot gases are concentrated in the form of smoke. 80% of their volume are combustible.

After mixing with air, they ignite, which leads to an increase in the temperature in the furnace and heating of the stones to higher rates. If at the same time dry firewood is used as fuel, then they will be required much less. Many long-burning stoves have been built on this principle of operation, but it has only recently been used for sauna stoves. There is also a similar model without afterburning. Having studied her drawing, you can better understand the proportions and placement of different elements.

This design involves the construction of a furnace with a volume of 30% more than the heater. The ratio can be considered acceptable. The chimney is located offset back, which sometimes causes difficulties in installing it - the ceiling beam may interfere with it. In this case, it may be necessary to bend the chimney, which is not welcome.

In addition, before you make a stove for a bath, you should decide whether you need a steam tank for heating water. Some adjust the humidity level by opening and closing the tank lid. Other experts argue that heavy steam is produced in this way, so they advise installing a tank in the washing room, and heating the water is done by means of a heat exchanger built into the furnace, connected by pipes to the tank.

Now consider the scheme of a metal furnace with a water tank. The design is considered quite well-designed. Thanks to the spark arrester, the smoke travels a slightly longer distance, thereby warming up the walls of the firebox better. Instead of a tank, of course, you can lay stones.

It is worth considering the option of installing a tank at the back of the furnace. The chimney is shifted back, passing through the tank. Due to the large height of the tank, there will be effective heat transfer, therefore, the chimney will not overheat when leaving it.

The heater has a design that assumes its small size, which is quite enough for small steam rooms. It has a lid, but due to the location, it can be difficult to close it after water has been supplied. But this design is easier to maintain.

Making a sauna stove

The main task of the furnaces is to bring the temperature to the desired indicators as quickly as possible and keep it at that level. To speed up this process, fans are used, which, blowing the walls, accelerate the heating.

For these purposes, the casing-convector is also intended. The gap between it and the furnace wall should be 1.5-2 cm. Air is sucked through the gap, which warms up during movement, while the walls cool down.

To make the stove in the bath with your own hands as high quality and practical as possible, its body is made of thick metal, and the casing is made of thin, because it is not subject to overheating.

When placing the heater above the firebox, ventilation holes can be made in the casing. In this case, the proportion of air rising along the walls will be directed to the heater, blowing over the stones and increasing their temperature. This ventilated heater is great for saunas.

Schemes and drawings of furnaces

Sauna stoves have a slightly simplified design. The dimensions of the metal stove for the bath, and the firebox itself, should be sufficient for laying large logs. On top of the firebox, the sides of the heater are welded, the volume of which, as a rule, is from 20 to 25 liters. The ratio in size can be different, there are no specific rules for this.

To make a metal stove for a bath as correct as possible, you should not install a tank for heating water. Otherwise, you will not be able to control the level of humidity in the sauna, which in extreme temperatures can lead to burns.

There is another option - to install a heater inside the firebox. A lid can be provided, while such an oven can have two modes of operation: with an open lid - so that the steaming process is dry, and with a closed lid - to generate a larger volume of steam.

How to make a sauna stove: do-it-yourself metal sauna stove, metal stove, drawings, how to make iron, how to build, dimensions of iron sauna stoves, photos and videos

Metal sauna stove: manufacturing instructions

To date, there are many designs of metal stoves: wood, electric and gas. Wood-burning appliances require a lot of fuel, careful maintenance, but they give a "live" fire. Electrical devices are housings equipped with heating elements and heat insulators. Gas ovens are the most modern and reliable, they have thermostats for power control and protective devices that are triggered when the gas is attenuated.

Advantages and disadvantages of metal sauna stoves

Metal stoves for baths have significant advantages over other heating structures:

• The small dimensions and mobility of the metal stove make it indispensable for small baths.

The disadvantages of metal furnaces are:

1. Rapid cooling associated with the oven's inability to retain heat. Continuous fuel combustion is required.

Material for a metal furnace in a bath

For the manufacture of the stove, metal with a thickness of more than 5 mm is used, with a smaller value, the device will not last more than 5-7 years. Reputable stove manufacturers offer products in 10mm steel for fireboxes and slightly thinner for water tanks and stone bins.

The design of the stove-heater made of metal for a bath

A metal sauna stove consists of three main parts, such as a fuel combustion chamber, a stone hopper, and a water heating tank.

• The combustion chamber. Here is the process of burning firewood. To control it, the doors of the firebox and blower are used. The latter serves to supply air to the furnace. Removal of combustion products from the furnace is carried out through an ash pan - a metal grate. From the firebox, the heat from burning firewood rises to the bunker with stones.

If the design of a metal stove for a bath is clear to you, we proceed to the process of its manufacture.

Making a stove-heater for a bath from a metal pipe

We will make the stove from a pipe with a diameter of 700 mm, its height will be 1600 mm. For work, we need: a steel sheet with dimensions of 2200x1000 mm and a thickness of 10 mm, a metal pipe 1600 mm long with a wall thickness of 7-10 mm, a chimney pipe with a diameter of 100 mm with a wall thickness of 5 mm, a metal rod t. 10 mm, a cast-iron grate (from the store), door hinges - 8 pcs, hecks - 3 pcs, a drain valve for the tank, a tape measure, a building level, a grinder, metal scissors, a welding machine.

1. We cut the pipe into two parts: one of them is 0.9 m long, the other is 0.7 m.

The procedure for installing a metal stove in a bath

Measures for the installation of a bath stove begin at the stage of erection of the entire building - a foundation is laid for installing the device with a slight deepening. It is laid with two rows of bricks, and a stove is placed on it.

• The minimum distance between the wall and the oven is assumed to be at least 1 m. In addition, an additional protection device is recommended in the form of thermal insulation of the wall with foil with a layer of insulation. This will prevent overheating of the wooden wall and its ignition.

After the installation of the furnace is completed, it can be lined with bricks on clay mortar. This will improve the appearance of the apparatus and save people from the possibility of burns. The stove with lining can be placed closer to the wall.

We hope that the above will convince you that making a metal stove for a bath is not so difficult. If you have the skills of metal cutting and welding, you can make a home-made furnace using a simple drawing, which will be no worse than a purchased one.

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove

We assemble a do-it-yourself metal sauna stove

A lot of do-it-yourself metal sauna stove designs have already been made and invented, but the topic has not been fully disclosed and is still relevant. With your own hands, metal bath stoves can be made from improvised metal materials, you only need desire and a little time.

Do-it-yourself metal stoves for a bath

After reviewing this article and observing the technology, as well as adding imagination, you can come up with something yourself. As a result, you will not only have a great steam bath, but also surprise your neighbors and friends with unique solutions. Let's talk about some in more detail. We will figure out how a metal furnace can be made, what its dimensions and device should be, and we will also tell you how to prepare the base (foundation) in order to install the assembled structure.

Stove with stone grate and hot water

What do you need to work?

If a metal stove for a bath is being built with your own hands, then you first need to draw up a project, determining the dimensions of the unit, and also prepare everything you need.

Tool

• Welding machine.
• Electrodes with a diameter of 3-4.
• Bulgarian.

Material metal

If a homemade stove for a bath is made from a pipe, you will need:

• Wheel disks - 4 pcs.
• Pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm.
• Sheet iron 2-3 mm thick.
• Armature iron with a diameter of 8-10 mm or a rod.

Building material

• Brick - 300-350 pcs.
• Cement - 2-3 bags of 50 kg.
• Crushed stone, sand - 0.1 cu.

Please note: thrust is created by rarefaction, i.e. rarefied cold air draws warm air. Warm air, in turn, tends to rise under the action of the Archimedean force. The draft depends on the weather: in summer the air is warm and humid - naturally, the draft is less, in winter it is the other way around. The thrust also depends on the diameter of the pipe.

Drawing of the heater stove

If the pipe is thin, then gases and warm air will be slowed down by friction against the walls of the pipe and will not have time to leave the chimney. As a result, it creates smoke plug and the smoke follows the path of least resistance, i.e. into the room.

Therefore, when making a metal bath stove with your own hands, always follow the principles of pressure, draft, correctly choosing the dimensions of the chimney and firebox. If the pipe is wide- smoke and gases will slowly rise up, the draft will be poor and the pipe will be very clogged, it will have to be cleaned very often. Since everything will settle on the walls of the pipe, the normal speed when exiting the pipe is 5-8 m/s.

For the first time, the Romans began to use chimneys (3-8 centuries BC) - famous Roman baths.

Works on the construction of the furnace

So, let's start building a metal bath stove with our own hands. First of all, you need to prepare the foundation, that is, the foundation on which it is planned to install the structure. Despite the fact that the iron stove for a bath from a pipe weighs a little, it is necessary to prepare the foundation for it. It is very important that the iron stove is installed on a level foundation.

We are building a foundation

• For the foundation for the furnace, we knock down the formwork, its dimensions are 1x1 m, height 20 cm.
• We reinforce the future foundation in one layer, laying reinforcement along and across squares 20x20 cm. We connect the fittings at the junctions with each other with a knitting wire. It should not lie on the ground, for this we drive it into the ground along the edges of the lattice 4 pieces of rebar and tie a grate to them on weight. Before you start pouring the foundation, make sure that the grate is in the middle.
• After pouring, we maintain the foundation about 2 weeks, we open all the doors and windows in the bath for better ventilation and lay wet rags on the flooded foundation. This is done so that cracks do not form during drying. We wet the rags for 2 weeks.

Preparing and assembling the oven

The iron furnace is assembled like this:

• Take the back rim from the wheel, we weld all the holes, except for the one in the middle.
• We take the next rim, cut off the convex top, insert the first rim into the second and weld. There should be no holes and cracks, the device must be airtight, after welding we beat off the slag and check the weld, if we haven’t welded it somewhere, we weld it, check it again, having beaten off the slag.

Moments of assembling a stove for a bath

Assembly of parts of the 2nd stage of the furnace

Let's make a small digression here. If you already have a dressing room, then before installing a new stove, you will have to cut a square hole in the wall, because the stove will start from there - these are the doors of the blower and firebox, everything else is in the bath.

Drawing of the inside of the furnace

If you did not have a dressing room, then we will build it together with a sauna stove. The corner where the iron stove stands should be lined with a brick wall, this is done in order to fire safety, because inside the bath is always trimmed with wood.

So, we begin to make an oven, if there is no experience in oven matters or you have never laid a brick, then it is better to call a master who will lay down the oven for you according to all the rules. But if you want to try it yourself, which is not bad, then it's time to try it, and I'll tell you how to do it.

• We lay out the base completely of brick, the second row we begin to lay out the ash pan (blower).

Ash pan, blower

After laying the oven should dry for at least 2 weeks, if it is flooded immediately, then microcracks will appear, which will violate the integrity of the furnace. We open all the blowers and entrances and exits so that the stove dries out. It is allowed to heat with small chips for a couple of hours. The stove is considered dry if on the firebox door no moisture and the walls are dry. You can drive the stove to the full for prevention, and the stove is ready for use.

• Now let's look at the pipe, the figure shows the finished view of the pipe, which is placed on the furnace we have folded.
• At the iron stove, the heater is located right on the body itself, in our case it is on the pipe, and there is also a hot water tank.

The complete oven

Note that the design itself will heavy enough, so it can be divided into parts and assembled indoors. A do-it-yourself metal bath stove of an original design is ready. If there is already a finish inside - cover from welding even with roofing material, even with sheets of iron.

Attention. Do not forget, when welding indoors, for fire safety purposes, you need to have a bucket of water and a sprinkler. A spray bottle can be made from an ordinary one and a half liter plastic bottle by punching a hole in the lid. After welding, spray the seam and scale.

• Top of the chimney (see Metal chimneys) we strengthen with two reinforcement for rigidity, welded to the pipe and fastened to one wall and to the other. For fastening to the wall, we use a corner or a plate welded to the reinforcement and drilled from both sides.
• We drill a brick with a perforator with a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, 5-6 cm deep and fasten it to the anchor, so we got stiffness angle and stable construction.

View in full: do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove with a grate for stones

Options for assembling a furnace of a different design

Do-it-yourself metal stoves for a bath come in different forms. Consider an oven made from pipe, its components and assembly scheme. At first glance, a pipe sauna stove has the simplest possible device, but it has its own tricks and design technology. At the beginning of the article, I indicated the principle of operation of the furnace, draft and chimney. In all cases, these principles must be used, otherwise the oven will not work.

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove with built-in heater

With the independent implementation of the design and some original solutions, so that you get a metal stove for a bath with your own hands, be guided by them, and you will succeed. Do not forget that nothing is impossible for us, so we will dare, strive and surprise others, improving our skills. Then a do-it-yourself metal sauna stove built or just a stove will not be an unread book for you. The stove in the photo above is an easy option as the base is almost done - a piece of pipe with a diameter of 525 mm, a length of 650 mm.

From below we cut a hole 335 mm in length, 180 mm wide, this will be our grate, we weld rods or an iron strip, about 1 cm apart. Separately, we make a box of sheet iron 2-3 mm, in size:

We weld the box, clean the slag.

We weld the door to it and set aside the part for now. Let's take care of the 525 pipe, we need to cut out the plugs, sidewalls on both sides.

• We have a pipe diameter of 525, divide by 2, we get 262.5 mm.
• With the help of a compass, having measured 262.5, we draw 2 circles, although it can be easier. Attach our blank (pipe 525) to the sheet and simply circle it.

If you need to copy several parts, then you should always copy from the original, and not from their finished copies, since dimensional accuracy is lost. If you have marked out the part and cut it out, then it is better to measure again and make another one than to copy from the finished one.

Do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath with a large heater

For now, we will make the parts, but we will carry out the assembly in order. First, we will make the insides of the oven and assemble them inside the oven itself, we will alternately apply and boil all other parts in turn.

Cut two holes at the top. One - for the chimney, round, with a diameter of 110 mm, stepping back from the edge of the 525 pipe to the middle (chimney 110 pipe) 100 mm. The other is square, for the heater, stepping back from the edge of the 525 pipe 215 mm, cut off the size along the 525 pipe 300 mm, across 250 mm. To keep the structure symmetrical, use the level(vertical, horizontal) or plumb line(vertical). For the cut hole, we prepare a niche for stones, cut out the details from a 5 mm iron sheet.

We weld all the details, make a square box, as shown, clean it from slag, coat the seams with plenty of kerosene and see if there are any smudges. We set aside the finished part of the furnace to the side.

A plumb line can be made from any heavy load (bolt, nut, stone, nail) and any rope, fishing line, thread. But the weight of the load must keep the ropes, fishing lines, threads taut. The rest will be done by gravity, a thread with a load hanging on it always shows the vertical in an ideal way, just like water shows the horizontal line.

Do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath: drawings

The next step: we cut out a 4-5 mm partition for the furnace shaft from a sheet of iron (it separates the firebox from the chimney, thereby preventing rapid heat leakage into the chimney).

Partition for furnace shaft

As shown in the figure, we measure 180 mm from above and in fact, that is, what the size will be, we will find out only in the course of work. Measurement can be made using a tape measure and a level. We set the level, mark from the top 180 mm to the top of the level. For a note, I’ll tell you how to get by with improvised means, if there is no level and mark the horizontal line. We take a transparent glass vessel, it can be a glass, a plastic bottle or any transparent, but solid enough object with a base.

We mark the same distance from the bottom on the sides and put marks with a marker. Pour water according to the marks - and here level ready. We put it on the surface we need: the water should be at the level with the marks, then we will have a horizon level.

• Set the level, not forgetting about the size of 180 mm, it must be observed, we press the level to the pipe so that it does not walk with you, and we put marks inside the edges, with a marker or chalk. We perform the same procedure on the other side.
• We make a measurement label to label.
• We draw a partition on a piece of metal and cut out.
• We take a niche for stones, insert it into the prepared hole, make a couple of tacks on the side and turn the pipe over (the niche for stones should be at the bottom).
• We insert the partition according to the marks made, if everything converges, then we begin to scald the partition, if not, we make notes where exactly it does not converge or interferes, pull out the partition, trim it with a grinder. If there are gaps - it's okay, it is brewed by electric welding.
• We also scald a niche for stones.

So, do-it-yourself bath metal stove is the next stage of assembly. We have plugs or sidewalls. On one we make markings for the firebox door, retreating from the bottom of 50 mm, and cut it to the size of the door, which we have prepared in advance with one clarification: we make a hole along all edges less than 1 cm. If we have a door size of 220x320 mm, then we cut out a hole of 210x310 mm. And we cut out another hole for cleaning the chimney 70x130 mm.

Do-it-yourself metal bath stoves with a tank for heating water

If the made metal stove in the bath with your own hands does not have a direct exit from the furnace to the chimney, but with shafts, then you should always make holes for cleaning the chimneys if you cannot get there. If this is not done, then ash deposits and small particles of ash and soot will soon reduce access to the chimney and the stove will begin to smoke. You will either have to cut through the window, or cut and weld the pipe constantly.

• First we put the sidewall with the future door, scald outside. Through the window for the firebox we weld the partition with the sidewall. We will install the firebox door at the last moment. Now we weld the other sidewall, which we have without holes, we clean everything with a grinder.
• We put the chimney in the cut hole, grab, take the level and measure the vertical from both sides not in parallel, but at an angle. To keep the chimney from being blocked. We scald everything, put an effort for the chimney below.
• Next stage: put the ash pan- blew from below, closing the grate, and scald it.
• And assembly completion- we weld the doors to the firebox and to the hole for cleaning the chimney, the ash pan has a door. And weld the legs.

It remains to install the oven in its intended place. At the same time, the installation is carried out so that the heater is not located in the furnace, but outside, which makes it difficult to heat the stones. The stones will heat up much longer than usual, but the effect will still be. Stones for the stove are better to use maritime, they heat up faster, keep heat longer, and if they contain salt and iodine, they have a beneficial effect on the body. A very important detail. If you have made an iron stove for a bath with your own hands, then you need to install it so that the floor under the blower is tin or tiles, generally made of non-combustible material.

• Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove: assembly

  
  Step-by-step guide to assembling a stove for a bath with your own hands. Necessary materials and tools for the work. A detailed step-by-step description of the actions for

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove

There are plenty of types of stove equipment: someone prefers a brick heater built by a professional craftsman, and someone likes a metal stove designed by their own hands.

The latter option is economical, as it can be made from improvised materials with your own hands.

Unit advantages

The following main positive points with which the metal stove for the bath is endowed:

• compactness, small parameters make it possible to install such a design even in a small room.
• No need to build a special massive foundation. For such a stove, a lightweight type of base is also suitable. And this greatly simplifies the process of installing furnace equipment.
• In a metal sauna stove, you can maintain a constant combustion process, which allows you to keep the temperature at a given value throughout the entire sauna procedure.
• An economical version of furnace equipment, the possibility of building a structure from existing materials.

Disadvantages of a metal sauna stove

Despite the presence of positive aspects, a metal stove for a bath has its own minuses :

1. cools down very quickly, as there is no property of accumulation of thermal energy. In order to maintain a high temperature in the bath, it is necessary to maintain a constant combustion process.
2. low heating capacity of a large room;
3. the need to provide special protection against a fire situation, since the fire safety of a metal structure is low. It is recommended to install additional hull skin.

Choosing a shape for a metal sauna stove

For many, such a parameter as the shape of the structure will seem insignificant. In fact, the configuration affects the performance of the equipment, the convenience of using it during operation. The furnace unit happens:

The last type is the most common and easy to use. With this configuration, the furnace has corner zones that are subject to minimal heat. That is why many believe that in a rectangular design, the shape, the frame of the furnace, is best preserved.

The shape of the furnace also affects the uniformity of heating of both the structure itself and the heated room. With the maximum heating of one element of the equipment, the heating of the other decreases. This, in turn, ensures uniform heating of the room, a stable balance of heat flows.

Proper heating of the structure affects its mechanical stability. So, a round or cylindrical furnace is characterized by a low degree of resistance to heat, therefore, denser walls are made for it. A rectangular oven is considered to be resistant to heat, as it has cold corners.

Do-it-yourself oven construction options

It can be said that metal sauna stoves already have a long history, therefore, for such a long period, craftsmen have developed and offered various types of performance.

The simplest option is a metal stove made of an iron barrel. To do this, the bottom and lid of the barrel are cut off, resulting in a cylinder. This cylinder, up to half, is loaded with bricks placed on edge. A grate is laid on top of them. The remaining half of the barrel is 2/3 filled with stones. After that, the chimney is removed and the lid is installed on the furnace. This method of making a furnace, although simple, is inconvenient to use.

For a small bath area, you can build a compact-sized stove using sheet steel. The inner surface of this design is laid out with bricks. The firebox, its walls are laid out in half a brick, the chimney - in one quarter. This type of oven is easy to manufacture and use. To warm up the room, you will need some fuel raw materials. Comfortable room temperature will be achieved after a short period of time.

Manufacturing process

Whichever option is chosen, you will need to prepare the following material:

• sheet steel, the thickness of which is not less than 8 mm;
• a metal pipe with a wall thickness of 10 mm, a diameter of 50-60 cm;
• rod 10 mm thick;
• grate;
• hecks and doors for the combustion chamber, heater and blower;
• water tap;
• two meters of pipe. Of these, 90 cm will go to the firebox, 60 cm to the tank, and 50 cm to the manufacture of secondary parts.

By the way, doors for structural elements can be made independently.

Concerning tools, then in the work we will use a grinder and a welding machine.

Option 1: stove design with a closed type of heater

In this type of structure, it is assumed closed view of the stove, therefore, in order to splash water to supply steam, you will need to open the door.

A design such as a metal stove for a do-it-yourself bath has the following steps:

• we take a large piece of pipe, the diameter of which is at least 50 cm, and cut an opening in it for the blower. The size of the latter is 5x20 cm.
• Inside the pipe, from the side of the opening, we weld fasteners for the grate, using any metal plate with lugs for this.
• We turn to the arrangement of the firebox: we cut an opening of 25x20 cm, weld the fasteners for the heater rods. We will use rods, 1 cm in diameter, or specially sold grates for a round furnace.
• On the opposite wall of the heater, we cut a hole through which steam is supplied.
• We fill the heater with stones suitable for this type of construction. Talcochlorite, diabase have good properties, combined with a metal surface, flint, granite, mica-containing stones should be excluded.
• In the lid for the furnace, we cut a hole for the chimney pipe and install it.

This completes the manufacturing process of the furnace structure. But still, the masters offer to improve the design by adding hot water tank .

To do this, we take a piece of pipe, of large diameter, and weld in a water tap. We prepare the lid for the water tank: we take the lid of the desired size and cut it into 2 equal parts. In one part, we cut an opening for the chimney, and then weld it onto the tank. We will provide for the second part to be removable, so we weld hinges and a handle to it.

Option 2: stove with an open type of heater, constant heating

Having a metal sheet is easy and simple to build such an assembly. His the design is a pipe divided into two compartments using a grate. The upper compartment is a firebox, while the lower one acts as an ashpit-blower. Each compartment is equipped with a door through which fuel can be placed, air supplied, and combustion products removed.

In the far, muffled end of the pipe, we weld the chimney pipe, its diameter is 100 mm.

We weld a metal box on top of the cylindrical body, which is filled with stones. The curved elbow of the chimney allows for maximum heating of the stones, as this increases the contact surface of the hot pipe with the heater.

The described version of the furnace structure is also easy to perform in the form of a parallelepiped. In this case, sheets of metal, and not a pipe, will be needed for blanks.

As a rule, for such a stove, the presence of a hot water tank is assumed. In a rectangular oven ways to place the tank many, here are just a few:

• can be done on either side;
• attach on top;
• perform a water jacket on several sides;
• embed pipes for cold and hot water supply.

A convenient way to get hot water is to install a special heat exchange tank on the chimney pipe. You can make such a water heater yourself or buy a ready-made factory one, which has a pipe of a standard size and diameter. In the latter case, the tank cuts into the chimney, its vertical part above the furnace body, and pipes are connected to the supply and intake of water. Such a tank, with sufficient volume, can serve as a water reservoir or simply be a heat exchanger connected to the main water tank.

Option 3: open type metal oven with additional brick walls

This type of furnace equipment is complex in execution, but this is justified by the acquisition of the ability to accumulate heat.

Such a design is metal body with internal brickwork. At the same time, the requirements for the thickness of steel are reduced: you can take a sheet with a thickness of 2 mm. For brickwork, you will need fireclay refractory bricks, mortar. As a solution, a special ready-made dry mix for furnace work is suitable. It is mixed according to the requirements of the instructions for use.

A do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath has the following manufacturing technology:

1. Preparing the base: We weld legs and heel pads to it. This will make the furnace structure stable.

Scheme of a metal sauna stove with an additional brick wall

• We lay out the first solid brick row on this base. For the rest of the rows, we adhere to the following parameters: near the firebox we put it in half a brick, in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe chimney channels - a quarter.
• When the blower chamber is ready, install cast iron grate , placing it between the firebox and the ash pan. To design openings for the loading window and blower, you can use metal corners, 20 x 20 in size. It is important to monitor the evenness between ordinary seams.
• Above the combustion chamber we lay wire mesh metal grill , whose diameter is 12 mm. We will then put stones on this grate.
• When the masonry reaches the level of the heater, you need to leave it on the right or left opening We will load stones into it, take them out for cleaning, and also splash water into this window during the bathing procedure for vaporization.
• flue channel it is desirable to make tortuous. This will ensure maximum heating of the entire furnace body and complete combustion of fuel resources. In the place where the pipe turns up, from the back, we create an inspection window. We mount a valve in it, which allows you to keep warm for a long time after the end of the furnace process.
• The top two rows of bricks are laid solid, leaving hole for chimney pipe through which combustion products will be removed.
• After we have finished the brickwork, we give the mortar time to set and dry. After that, we proceed to welding the walls of the metal case. In our situation, this body resembles a kind of case. Corner, 20 x 20, launched at the joints, makes it possible to facilitate welding work, to make the seams airtight.
• Making a workpiece front wall , do not forget to cut openings for the ash pan and the furnace loading chamber. We install the front wall in place, weld the hinges for the doors. We make the door leafs wider by 10 mm on each side than the prepared openings - this will ensure tightness when closing. You can lay an asbestos seal around the perimeter of the door or along its entire inner surface.
• In the side wall blank, we also provide an opening for prepared in brickwork steam generation windows . For this, we install a metal door with sealing material. It is desirable to make it open down, put a cold handle for opening during the bath procedure, when there is a need for steam.
• On the lid for the oven cut out flue pipe hole , the field of which we weld the cover into place. Next, install chimney channel and boil it.
• We install a metal stove for a bath with our own hands at the chosen place and load it with stones.

Rules for installing a bath metal furnace

• install a metal sauna stove with your own hands at a distance of at least 1 meter from the walls of the bath;
• the structure must be located in close proximity to the chimney;
• execution of a special foundation, a base made of refractory materials for placing the furnace;
• the wall of the room, near which there is a metal stove for a bath, should be finished with sheet refractory material.

Do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath: photo drawings

Since ancient times, a bath has been considered simply a necessary attribute for preserving beauty, youth and health. And in the villages and at the dacha, it still has great everyday significance. When there is no hot water in the house, it can always be warmed up in the bathhouse. And besides, if there is not enough space, then guests can always be accommodated for a couple of nights in a bathhouse. And how to do it without an oven? But no way!

Masters tried to make stoves for the bath with their own hands. And even the model bought in the store is brought to mind on their own. This is done to ensure that it fully complies with all the requirements of the place where it will be installed. So it’s worth figuring out how to make a sauna stove yourself. Just do not forget that home-made stoves very often cause a fire, so we still recommend using certified products, for example, on the page https://www.teplodar.ru/catalog/pechi-sauna-banya/ stoves for a bath are presented from Teplodar company.

Varieties of wood stoves

The types of stoves for a bath are determined by the material from which they are made. Most often, structures are made of brick, but can also be made of rubble stone. For the heater best to use granite, the rest of the materials crumble with a temperature difference. And this is very undesirable, given that in the bath it is customary to take a steam bath and pour water and herbal infusions on the heater. Less often, metal is used for furnaces.

brick construction

The main advantages of this design:

• ease of manufacture;
• fire safety;
• lack of a protective screen, with proper masonry.

This model allows you to use absolutely any materials for heating. You can heat it with wood and coal without fear. Do you want you can connect it to the gas heating system and she will do her job perfectly. There are a lot of photo options for such models today in design catalogs.

A brick oven can have absolutely any design. Lots of drawing options. It can only be used to heat stones, or it can perform all the functions of a Finnish sauna stove. And if you want, make a Turkish hammam at home. To do this, it will be enough to put a hog in the chimney. And in combination with the Russian steam, you will get a bathhouse from the sultans' harem.

• quality factor;
• the availability of the material;
• ease of laying out.

iron structure

This variety is usually divided into two: cast-iron furnaces and steel welded ones. And each of them has its own characteristics and nuances during installation. So, you can only buy a cast-iron stove. But for her, you can do a lot of details yourself. For example, it is not always possible to purchase separately and lean against the stove. The water will heat up pretty quickly, so that's a huge plus.

It is worth noting that mostly iron sauna stoves, photos of which can be seen in most construction catalogs, are heated with wood and coal, less often with peat briquettes.

If you plan to heat the bath only with wood, then no additional devices are required in the furnace of an iron furnace, but in order to heat it with coal, you will have to overlay it with refractory bricks.

By the way, if you want to extend the life of such a furnace, then in any case you need to overlay it with bricks. It will protect the oven from moisture and temperature changes.

Welded iron stoves for baths can be done by hand, especially if you own the skill of a welder. But, otherwise, it is better to trust a professional.

To work, you will need a welding machine, a metal sheet with a thickness of at least 5 mm. After the oven is ready, weld a separate tank for it. But remember, both when building a furnace and when welding a tank, everything seams must be secure and not have broaches- not welded areas. Otherwise, you risk your own safety.

On the barrel for water, it is imperative to make a tap to drain the water. The lower it is located, the less water will remain in the tank, the less it will be subject to corrosion.

It is worth remembering that a metal stove can have hot walls, which is fraught with severe burns when touched. And therefore it is imperative to make a protective screen of brick, which will help protect people from touching the hot walls of the furnace.

For an iron stove and a chimney, an iron one is required. It can be made from pipes or welded, but in any of these cases, when the furnace is melted, it will smoke badly and flare up. The best option would be to create a chimney from sandwich pipes.

Drawings and photos of the sauna stove

Before proceeding with the assembly of the furnace, you need to take care of fire safety. Here it is worth considering that the distance between the furnace and the walls should not be less than 25 cm.

Today, stoves with a remote firebox are becoming more and more popular. The latter is located in the waiting room. This arrangement has quite a few advantages:

• the stove can be heated without opening the door to the steam room, which helps to keep the heat in it;
• in front of the firebox a metal sheet must be laid down so that the coal that falls out does not lead to a fire. And in the steam room, it will heat up pretty quickly, which is not very pleasant when moving around it. And in the dressing room no one will walk on the sheet and it will not interfere.

It is only worth remembering that only light stoves can be installed without a foundation. If it is large enough and heavy enough, then you will definitely need to lay out the foundation. At the same time, it should be laid below the level of freezing of the earth.

In general, the steps for installing a stove in a bath are as follows:

• determine the type of bath;
• make a drawing;
• purchase all the necessary materials;
• determine where the structure will stand in the bath;
• find an artist.

However, if you plan to do all the work yourself, the last item can be excluded.

Types of stoves for a bath

How to make an oven correctly?

Before starting to build a brick oven, need to stock up on some accessories: doors - blower and furnace, ash pan, valve.

The water tank can be installed separately, which will significantly reduce the size of the stove itself. It must be installed so that water flows freely into the shower pipes and the bath itself. In order to get more steam in the bath, a pipe can be inserted into the structure, which will help, by supplying steam, to warm the lower layers of air in the room.

The design of such an oven is quite simple.

At the bottom of the furnace is a firebox, under which there is a blower hole. A little higher is an extension for the heater and an exit for smoke. The stove is closed with a door. Next is the chimney. A water tank is installed on the side of the whole structure.

You can make your own changes and additions to the entire design. But only if you are a master of your craft. Otherwise, you risk starting a fire when heating the furnace.

Let's start laying

Photos of stoves in the bath show that bricks can be used to make a structure of any configuration and size. But still there are standard masonry rules:

1. First, lay the foundation on which the laying out of the first row of bricks will begin. Let it dry and get to work.
2. Lay an asbestos-cement sheet on the foundation. And on it you can begin to lay the first row of the heater. In this case, the bricks are fastened together not with cement mortar, but with a composition based on clay and sand. It is more convenient to buy it in the store, because it is quite difficult to find the right clay.
3. Laying is carried out according to the drawing. Each row must be checked for evenness with a level. The seams between the bricks must be filled carefully. Each brick must be tapped with a mallet - a rubber mallet.
4. If you need small pieces of brick, then it should be sawn with a grinder. This way you avoid a lot of waste.
5. Only refractory bricks are used for the heater.
6. Next, proceed to laying out the chimney. For this you you need a quality brick but no longer fire resistant. After installing the pipe at the top of the chimney, it is imperative to make a deflector and protection from snow and rain.
7. Leave the whole structure to dry naturally for two weeks and you can heat the bath for the first time.

As you can see, there are many difficulties in this work. But with a strong desire, you can do any work with your own hands. Although, in order for your bath to please you every day and become a real healer for your family and guests, you should contact the master stove-maker. After all, the stove is the main thing in the bath. And the better it is done, the more benefits it will bring.

The modern construction market offers a variety of models of sauna stoves: both for liquid fuel, and for firewood, and for gas, and with many additional functions. True, manufacturers are asking for such units for a simply fabulous amount, and at the same time there are no guarantees that this stove will fit the requirements of a particular bath and will last a really long time. But what is created by those in whom the spirit of the Russian master lives is for centuries. But it’s not so difficult to make a stove for a bath with your own hands - all you need is detailed instructions, step-by-step photos of construction and recommendations from experienced craftsmen. You will find all this in this article. The main thing is to approach the matter slowly and scrupulously observe the safety precautions for furnace work.

If you decide to order a finished oven, please contact large specialized companies and stores, for example, http://www.jadebest.ru, as they work directly with manufacturers.

The first homemade sauna stoves - what were they?

For many modern masters, home-made stoves for baths, which have been made for many centuries and until recently, cause sincere bewilderment: they were built without any chimney, and carbon monoxide came out of the bath only through the door. That's why our ancestors said "wash black." Although, apart from this shortcoming, the ancient bath stove itself had a very practical device, very resistant to fire. So, a domed hearth resembling a well was built from environmentally friendly clay bricks. In it, prepared stones were laid on metal rods, and a container of water was placed on them like a boiler. The fire under the cobblestones heated the latter, and the boiling water that fell on them filled the bathhouse with a soft and enveloping steam.

Over time, Russian craftsmen got the hang of equipping some kind of chimney for such stoves, and the baths became much more aesthetic and functional. And even more - this attribute of steam rooms has become the semantic and organizing center of her interior design, and the improved concept of their manufacture has made bath procedures less expensive and more enjoyable.

What should be the furnace - requirements for units

Modern do-it-yourself sauna stoves are practically in no way inferior to factory ones - they are no less aesthetic, they also provide economical fuel consumption, they also take up little space in the steam room and also do not require any complicated maintenance.

The do-it-yourself stove in the bath can be made for firewood, and for liquid fuel, and for other energy sources. The choice of its type depends on the characteristics of the bath itself, but in any case, it must meet certain requirements:

1. The presence of sufficient thermal power and a wide range of its regulation. So, the thermal power of the same furnace may be quite sufficient for a log bath and insufficient for a frame one.
2. The presence of a heat accumulator and a steam generator so that you can change the modes of heat and moisture.
3. Availability of means of convection regulation.
4. The almost complete absence of surfaces whose temperature exceeds 150?

In addition to all of the above, according to the rules of furnace work, the sauna stove also has its own requirements for the size of the furnace, fire safety and other important parameters.

Design features of a modern factory furnace

"Hot" or "cold" design options

Depending on the temperature of the outer walls of the sauna stove, it is called "cold" or "hot". So, at the “hot” wall they can heat up to 100 degrees, thanks to which it is warm in the steam room. Such a bath is easy to melt in a short time, which is indispensable for those steam rooms in which there is no constant heating - these are baths that are used from time to time. And "cold" ovens are not suitable for them. But such stoves also have disadvantages: a steam room can easily be overheated, turning it into a real sauna - and this mode is not safe for every person.

“Cold” stoves, which need to be heated for a long time, also have their advantages - it is impossible to get burned on their walls, because their maximum temperature reaches 50 degrees. But the heating of the bath rooms themselves occurs through special channels of the furnace, which take in the cold air of the floor, pass it through the fire and give it out through the top already warm, soft and not scalding. That is why only with the help of "cold" stoves can you effectively regulate the humidity and temperature in the bath.

Some examples of stove designs

Brick version - a classic of kiln art

A solid, but fairly simple brick construction of a sauna stove looks something like this: a firebox made of refractory bricks, an ash pan below the firebox, a cast-iron or steel grate for stones, a chimney, a hot water coil and doors.

The weight of a home-made stove for a brick bath is solid, and therefore it will be necessary to arrange a foundation under it in advance. Instead of mortar for laying bricks, only clay and sand will need to be used, because. cement is not resistant to high temperatures and is able to ruin a sauna stove in just a year. And for the strength of the whole structure, the masonry is done according to its own special scheme.

Metal stove and its features

Compared to brick ovens, cast iron and steel ovens are more compact, have high heat transfer and excellent heating rates. The plus is that such stoves for baths are easy to manufacture at the factory, while brick stoves can only be laid out directly on the spot.

It will not be difficult for anyone to weld good metal stoves for baths with their own hands: for this, steel sheets or a large pipe that will need to be cut will be used. And in its design, such a furnace is not far from a brick one: the same nodes and blocks, the same elements, only a different design and different performance. For example, a square sauna stove is made from thick-sheet steel or cast iron, and a round stove is made from thick-walled steel pipes.

But the furnace itself of such a furnace today is made a little differently than a couple of decades ago: now it has two chambers, one of which is used for burning fuel, and the second for afterburning what has not burned down, due to which harmful combustion products are emitted much less and itself The efficiency of the furnace is increased by 20%.

The only significant drawback of metal furnaces is the large surface area that can burn. Although this minus is not difficult to fix - it is enough to overlay such a stove with beautiful refractory bricks, or to hang a steel screen on the body itself - a convector, which will distribute hot air flows throughout the bath and make its heating more uniform. On the other hand, cooling the furnace due to natural air circulation significantly increases its service life.

But it is not recommended to make a gas or electric oven on your own: even factory models are extremely flammable and even capable of exploding.

The simplest homemade stove options

For those who have never dealt with the stove business, you can try for the first couple of years to study the design of the stove for the bath of the simplest design and build one that will heat the bath, heat the water and produce pleasant steam.

Also, you can make a stove from ordinary or rubble stone, or carefully baked brick. The wall thickness should be from 13 to 25 cm, and the stones should weigh 1-5 kg. As stones for the furnace, you can take granite, but not flint, which shatters into pieces when heated. And in order for a do-it-yourself sauna heater to accumulate heat, you can add cast-iron ingots to it so that they account for 20% of 80% of the stones.

Boilers and water tanks in homemade stoves can be supported either on masonry walls, or on special posts inside the furnace, or suspended on a cable. But grates for furnaces are made of thick steel or they already acquire standard cast iron.

Usually those who at least once in their life tried to make a stove for their favorite bath with their own hands are terribly proud of their success and proudly show their achievement to everyone they know.