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Winter greenhouse with do-it-yourself heating. How to make greenhouse heating with your own hands: a comparison of different methods of heating Greenhouse heating, what are the options

A heated greenhouse is a great way to extend the growing season and fruiting of vegetables. There are several ways to equip a heating system, the choice depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe greenhouse and its purpose, as well as the resources available to you. You can install the heating system with your own hands.

It is advisable to install heating systems in year-round greenhouses or during early spring planting of vegetables, herbs and flowers.

To effective ways heating greenhouses include:

  • furnace heating, including with air and water circuit;
  • water heating based on a solid fuel, gas or electric boiler;
  • heating with a gas gun;
  • electric heating with convectors or infrared heaters;
  • heating the soil with a heating cable or water heating pipes.

The methods can be combined, for example, by installing stove heating as the main source of heating and a heating cable as an additional one.

When installing a boiler and installing a water heating system, soil heating is also done with water, connecting pipes with a separate circuit.

Heating with gas guns is quite effective - the room warms up quickly, and the gas consumption is small. The gun takes up little space and is quite safe to use.

When using electric heating as the main one, it is recommended to use infrared heaters - they heat the soil and the plants themselves without drying out the air. Convectors heat the air, while in the lower part of the greenhouse - in the root zone - the temperature remains low, and at the top - excessively high. For this reason, convectors are usually used only for temporary heating.

Prices for heat guns

heat guns

Furnace heating of the greenhouse

Furnaces for greenhouses can be metal or brick. The second option is preferable - the brick heats up longer, but at the same time it retains heat well and cools down for a long time, and the temperature in the greenhouse remains stable. When heated with a brick oven, the air does not dry out, the humidity remains at an acceptable level.

Metal stoves warm up quickly, but have a low heat capacity and heat only as long as the firewood is burning. At the same time, the walls of the devices become very hot and dry the air. For this reason, metal furnaces are often equipped with a water circuit with registers or radiators - the heated water in them cools down gradually, smoothing out temperature fluctuations.

Metal stoves for greenhouses

  • metal stoves are mobile, they can be installed for several cold months, and removed in summer;
  • they do not require the arrangement of the foundation and do not take up much space;
  • by choosing a suitable model, you can connect a water circuit;
  • the price of metal furnaces is not too high;
  • installation and installation can be done by hand, even without the skills of laying furnaces.

Disadvantages of metal furnaces:

  • the heating process cannot be automated, the furnace will have to be heated manually;
  • metal stoves dry the air, so it is necessary to install water containers in the greenhouse to humidify the air.

You can install the stove both in the greenhouse itself, and in the vestibule or utility room, bringing the air or water circuit into the greenhouse. The chimney from a metal stove can be placed in the space of the greenhouse, setting it at an angle of at least 15 degrees - this will provide additional heating. In this case, an uninsulated metal pipe is used. To pass through the roof or wall of the greenhouse, it is necessary to use special heat-insulated boxes.

Long chimney creates additional heating

Note! When installing the stove, it is important to take care of its stability! If the stove topples over, it may cause a fire or damage to the greenhouse!

An overview of popular and inexpensive models of metal furnaces is given in table 1.

Table 1. Furnaces for heating industrial greenhouses.

Models, illustrationsShort description

Compact and inexpensive furnace with the simplest possible design. Thermal power of 4 kW allows heating a greenhouse up to 80 m3, that is, an area of ​​25-30 m2. The body of the stove is made of steel, firewood is used as fuel. The surface of the stove can be used as a stove, for example, to heat water for irrigation or humidification.

A small stove made of heat-resistant steel, equipped with side convectors that distribute warm air. Power 6 kW, designed for greenhouses up to 60 m2 in size. The firebox door has a viewing window with glass, which allows you to control the process of burning firewood. On the top surface there is a burner on which you can heat water. Fuel - firewood or incinerated garbage.

Stove with a power of 5 kW for heating greenhouses with an area of ​​up to 50 m2. Equipped with a casing with convection holes that contribute to uniform heat transfer. There is a burner on the surface. Fuel is wood. Differs in stability, small size and weight.

Power 6 kW, greenhouse area - 60-80 m2. The sides of the oven are protected by casings, so that they do not heat up to temperatures dangerous for plants. Casings are equipped with convection openings. The door is firmly locked, which eliminates smoke. A convenient ash box allows you to collect it and use it as fertilizer.

Power 6 kW, area - up to 60 m2. The furnace is made according to the type of gas generator and has two combustion chambers. Firewood is burned in the first, afterburning occurs in the second flue gases. The walls of the furnace are formed by hollow pipes. Cold air enters from below, heats up when the stove is fired and exits through the top. Due to constant air exchange, the stove does not overheat. Air ducts can be connected to the pipes, and the oven itself can be installed in an adjacent room. The furnace has a long burning mode - up to 10 hours.

A 6 kW furnace for heating a greenhouse up to 60 m2 is equipped with a water jacket located around the walls of the furnace. Connected to the water heating system. The furnace works like a gas generator, equipped with a long burning mode. It has a compact size and high efficiency. As fuel, you can use any firewood, woodworking waste, branches, cardboard. Easy to maintain and safe.

Note! The choice of furnaces for greenhouses is very large, when choosing, you need to pay attention to thermal power and functionality.

Installation of a metal furnace in a greenhouse

Step 1. Prepare a solid base of paving slabs, bricks or tightly packed earth. It is better to place the stove in the center of the greenhouse so that the heating is more even. Furnaces with an air or water circuit are placed in any convenient place, observing the fire-prevention distances indicated in the passport.

Step 2 Install the stove on the prepared surface, check whether it will be convenient to load firewood and remove ashes. If there is a main wall, the furnace is installed with the back wall to it.

Step 3 Connect the chimney of the desired diameter to the chimney using a heat-resistant sealant. The installation of the chimney must be carried out in accordance with the diagram. Narrowing of the chimney is not allowed.

Step 4 If necessary, connect a water or air circuit.

Note! Furnaces with a water heat exchanger must not be fired without a filled heating system, as this will damage it.

Brick stoves for greenhouses

Brick heating stoves are usually used in year-round greenhouses. Brick ovens can effectively heat a greenhouse even during the frosty winter months due to their increased heat capacity. Any heating stove is suitable for a greenhouse, the main thing is that the heat output matches the area. The following is a simple masonry technology brick oven.

To build a brick oven you will need:

  • solid ceramic brick - 220 pcs.;
  • fireclay bricks - 80 pcs.;
  • clay masonry mortar - 80 l;
  • chamotte masonry mortar - 30 l;
  • concrete for the foundation - 0.25 m 3;
  • finished cast iron products - grate, furnace, blower and cleaning doors, smoke damper;
  • scraps of roofing material or glass isol.

A sectional drawing of the furnace is shown in the figure. The height of the furnace to the chimney is 215 cm, the structure can be placed in almost any greenhouse standard sizes. The horizontal dimensions of the furnace are 51x77 cm.

Step 1. Foundation arrangement. A solid foundation is required for any brick oven. It is made of reinforced concrete with a thickness of at least 20-30 cm. Under the foundation, soil is removed from an area of ​​70x100 cm to a depth of 35-40 cm. The bottom is leveled with coarse-grained sand with a layer of 20 cm, and formwork from boards is installed around the perimeter. Reinforcement bars Ø12 mm are laid in the form of two rows of lattice with a step of 20 cm. Concrete is mixed and poured into the prepared pit. The foundation is dried for at least three weeks, moistening the surface from time to time.

Step 2 Ash pan and furnace masonry. Start laying the furnace according to the scheme. The first 4 rows are laid out of red brick on clay masonry mortar. Install the ash pan door, fixing it in the masonry with a wire.

Fastening the legs to the frame of the furnace door: 1 - door; 2 - frame; 3 - paws.
Overlapping of the furnace door: A - overlap; B - "to the castle"; B - wedge-shaped brick

Rows from 5 to 12 are laid out from fireclay bricks on refractory mortar. In the 5th row, a grate is laid. In 6.7 and 8 rows, a furnace door is installed. Rows 9 to 12 form the vault of the firebox.

Step 3 Rows from 13 to 15 are also laid from fireclay bricks on a refractory mortar. Rows 13 and 14 cover the vault of the firebox, and a cleaning door is installed in 15. From the 16th row, the laying is again carried out with red brick. In the 16th row, the installation of the cleaning door continues. Rows 17 to 21 form smoke channels. In the 22nd row, they put the first smoke damper.

Step 4 Rows 23 to 27 continue the smoke channels. In the 28th row, the narrowing of the channel is laid out; in the 29th, a second smoke damper is installed. Rows 30 and 31 form the roof of the oven. Starting from the 32nd row, they lay a chimney of the desired height from 4 bricks with dressing.

The process of laying the furnace is shown in detail in the video.

Brick prices

Video - Laying a small heating stove

Note! For greenhouses of low height, it is possible to build a stove with horizontally located smoke channels.

Water heating in a greenhouse can be done in two ways: by connecting the greenhouse to the heating system of the house or by installing a separate boiler. The connection to the common system is performed by a separate circuit so that it can be turned off and the water drained.

In the case of installation of a separate heating system a boiler is installed in the greenhouse.

Depending on the most accessible and cheap fuel, this can be a boiler:

  • gas;
  • solid fuel;
  • electric;
  • universal.

A gas boiler is considered the most economical and convenient to use. It maintains the set mode automatically, while heating the greenhouse is inexpensive. To remove combustion products from gas boilers, a coaxial chimney is used, the surface of which practically does not heat up.

Solid fuel boilers, depending on the modification, can run on wood, coal and pellets. This fuel is also inexpensive, but the level of automation of most solid fuel boilers is low, they require constant monitoring and loading.

Electric boilers are different high level automation, can maintain the temperature in day and night mode. They are compact, silent and completely safe. They have only one drawback - the high price of electricity.

How to choose a boiler for a greenhouse

The choice of a boiler for a greenhouse depends primarily on its size and the type of crops grown. If there is gas on the site, it is more profitable and more convenient to heat a greenhouse of any area using a gas boiler. In non-gasified areas, you have to choose between other types of boilers.

In a year-round greenhouse with an area of ​​​​more than 50 m 2, with available firewood, it is better to install a solid fuel boiler. In this case, the cost of its installation and installation of the chimney will pay off in 1-3 years.

In a small greenhouse with occasional use, it is not advisable to install a solid fuel boiler. It is easier to install a low-power electric boiler - it does not require a specially designated place and installation of a chimney, and the energy costs in this case will be low.

Polycarbonate winter greenhouses have long ceased to be a rarity: modern technologies allow you to create the necessary microclimate in them and grow greens, vegetables and even berries for your table or for sale. Read more.

Calculation of the number of radiators

To ensure a favorable microclimate in the greenhouse, it is necessary to first determine the required number of radiators. The calculation for greenhouses with a height of less than 3 meters can be carried out according to a simplified scheme - by area.

The area is determined by the formula:

S = a*b

whereS - greenhouse area, m 2;a andb - length and width of the greenhouse, m.

The calculated thermal power of the greenhouse is determined by the formula:

P = S * 120,

whereP is the calculated thermal power, W;S - greenhouse area, m 2.

Calculation of the number of radiator sections:

n=P:p,

wheren is the number of radiator sections of the selected type;p is the thermal power of one section of the radiator, indicated in the data sheet, W.

The resulting number of sections is evenly distributed throughout the greenhouse, distributing them over several radiators.

Note! For greenhouses, it is better to choose radiators of minimum height - this way the root space and soil will fully warm up.

Installation of a water heating system

Regardless of the type of boiler chosen, the greenhouse water heating system is installed according to the same scheme.

In addition to the boiler, the system includes:

  • pipes and radiators;
  • circulation pump;
  • expansion tank;
  • security group;
  • coarse filter;
  • balancing valve
  • in the case of heating several circuits - a collector unit.

For solid fuel boilers and high power greenhouses, it is also recommended to install a heat accumulator. The heating circuit connection diagram is shown in the figure.

Step 1. Boiler installation. For installation solid fuel boiler it is better to equip a vestibule or a boiler room. Gas and electric boilers located directly in the greenhouse.

Depending on the type, the unit is installed on the floor or hung on a solid wall. For floor installation, it is necessary to prepare a solid horizontal base - a concrete foundation or paving slabs placed on a sand bed.

Step 2 Chimney connection. This step is performed for solid fuel or gas boilers. For solid fuel boilers, a stainless steel sandwich chimney is used. It is brought out through the roof or wall in accordance with the scheme.

For gas boilers use a coaxial chimney. It is taken out directly through the wall at the installation site of the boiler. Due to the complete combustion of gas in boilers, the output is water vapor and carbon dioxide with a small content of other elements, so the smoke from gas boilers is not dangerous for the walls of the greenhouse and the respiratory organs of people.

Step 3 Connecting radiators to the heating system. Radiators are mounted on the walls, evenly distributing them throughout the greenhouse. An air valve is installed on each radiator - a Mayevsky tap, as well as valves with which you can block the flow of water into the radiator. Radiators are mounted according to the selected scheme. For the heating system, pipes Ø20-Ø25 mm are used.

Step 4 Expansion tank installation. For a forced circulation system, an expansion tank of a closed membrane type is usually used. It does not have strict requirements for the installation site. The membrane expansion tank is a sealed cylinder, the interior of which is separated by a polymer membrane. One part of the tank is filled with air, the other - with a coolant. With excessive heating and expansion of the coolant, the membrane bends, and the air in the other chamber is compressed. This equalizes the pressure in the system.

The tank is mounted in the system anywhere, usually immediately after leaving the boiler or before circulation pump. Connection is made from below through the valve.

Step 5 Installation of the security group. The safety group consists of a pressure gauge, a safety valve and an air vent, which are placed on a steel manifold equipped with a coupling for connecting to the system. The safety group is connected immediately after the boiler in a place with maximum temperature and pressure.

Step 6 Installation of the circulation pump. The circulation pump is necessary to maintain a stable pressure in the system. It is installed on the return pipe before entering the boiler. A coarse filter must be placed in front of the pump.

Step 7 Pressurization with air. It is carried out to identify defects in equipment and installation. After the installation is completed, a special compressor is connected to the system, all Mayevsky valves and taps are closed, then the pressure indicated in the passport for the boiler and radiators is applied. After stabilizing the pressure, inspect all joints and nodes, check them with soap foam: apply it with a sponge to the joints and make sure that there are no bubbles.

After successful pressure testing, the boiler and the system are filled with coolant, and a trial run of the boiler is carried out. Air is bled using Mayevsky taps and the system is balanced using balancing taps on radiators.

Note! Gas and electric boilers with a high level of automation can be equipped with a circulation pump, expansion tank and safety devices. Before installing the system, carefully read the instructions for the boiler.

Prices for the circulation pump

circulation pump

Electric heating of the greenhouse

Infrared heaters are usually used to heat a greenhouse: they heat the soil and create a feeling of warmth, while objectively the temperature in the greenhouse can be moderate, and electricity costs are low. In some cases, other types of heaters are also used.

The calculation of the required number of infrared heaters is carried out according to a simplified scheme: for every 10 m 2 of a greenhouse, 1 kW of heater power is needed. For example, for a greenhouse with an area of ​​30 m 2, heaters with a total power of 3 kW are needed. This power is evenly distributed to several devices.

Infrared heaters are suspended from the frame of the greenhouse on brackets and connected to electrical network. If necessary, heating can be automated by connecting temperature sensors located at a height of 80-100 cm. Light from heaters should not fall on the sensors, otherwise measurement errors may occur.

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  • If you decide to build a stationary greenhouse for year-round growing vegetables, then in any case, you need to solve the issue of heating it in winter and during the transition period. There are many various ways how to organize the heating of the greenhouse, and most of them can be done by hand. In the article we will consider these methods, as well as give recommendations on calculating the power of the heating system and choosing a source of thermal energy.

    Types of greenhouse heating

    Heating Options similar structures there really is a lot, no less than for private houses. This is easy to verify if you study the projects for heating farm greenhouses of various sizes, posted on various Internet resources.

    According to the method of transferring heat into the building, the heating system is of the following types:

    • air;
    • water;
    • combined with direct heating of the soil.

    For reference. In large farm greenhouses, infrared heating is often used with gas or electric heaters.

    In the first case, one or more heat sources directly heat the air in the building, which is easier and cheaper to implement. It is more difficult to make water heating in a greenhouse with your own hands, but the effect will be greater, since it makes it possible to heat the growth zones of vegetables, and not the entire volume of the building. The optimal solution is a combined one, when the planting soil and the air in the greenhouse building are heated separately.

    When choosing a heating method, the question inevitably arises, what is the best way to heat a building, what energy carrier should be used for this purpose? There are several options here:

    • natural or liquefied gas;
    • electricity;
    • different kinds solid fuel(wood, coal).

    The choice of energy carrier depends on the individual conditions in each case, so you will have to make it yourself. We will consider how it is possible to heat a winter greenhouse with one or another fuel and what system schemes are used for this. True, there are alternative sources of heat, for example, solar collectors or geothermal systems. But the former are ineffective in winter, and the latter are incredibly expensive, so it makes no sense to take them into account.

    Natural gas heating

    This energy carrier is very convenient to use, although it will not work to conduct and connect it with your own hands, this should be done by a specialized company. If this point is not taken into account, and even the cost of gas for the population different countries CIS, then this is one of the best options for greenhouses. Using gas heating, you can organize an air, water and infrared method of heating a winter greenhouse.

    A common practice is to install infrared gas heaters on the roof of the room. If the structure has a small width, then the units will be placed along the axis of the building in one row. It is important that all the beds fall within the coverage area of ​​the device in width (it is indicated in the operating instructions). When this cannot be achieved, gas appliances are placed in 2 or 3 rows.

    The advantage of gas infrared heating in winter is the direct heating of the soil, and only then - the air in the greenhouse. The disadvantage is the need for a ventilation device to remove combustion products.

    Another option is a gas boiler plus water system greenhouse heating. It must be understood that in greenhouse facilities the main task is to provide plants with heat, and not to warm people. To do this, wiring is carried out from smooth pipes with a diameter of not more than 40 mm over the entire area. Moreover, their laying is carried out along each bed at a height of 20-30 cm from ground level. It is allowed to use the following types of wiring:

    • the supply line is along one wall, the return line is near the other. They are interconnected by transverse pipes running between the beds;
    • supply and return are laid along one wall. Each heating pipe runs along one bed, and returns past another;
    • the pipe is laid with a snake over the entire area of ​​the greenhouse, forming a single heating circuit.

    Advice. Shut-off valves must be installed on each branch so that the circuit can be turned off when the plants are already harvested.


    Additionally, in order to warm the air inside the building, it is recommended to place several heaters near the walls. Usually these are do-it-yourself registers made of smooth pipes. As you already understood, it will take a lot of work to install such a system, but you will only spend money on a gas boiler and its connection. You can go the other way: arrange air heating of the greenhouse by installing several gas convectors.

    Electric heating

    If we talk about the device of water electric heating, then it is carried out in the same way as gas. Only the source of heat we now have is different - a heating element, electrode or induction boiler. No permits are required for its installation, and therefore the work can be done independently.

    It is even easier to make infrared heating with hanging appliances, they do not require ventilation for their operation. They are placed in the same way as gas ones, by fixing to the roofing part.

    There is a variant of combined heating of a winter greenhouse, when an electric heating cable or a heating film is laid in the ground. At the same time, the space inside the structure is heated by air heaters (fan heaters) or home-made oil coolers. Here the choice is entirely yours, as long as there is enough electrical power supplied.

    It is noteworthy that electric heating winter greenhouses can be economical, despite the high tariffs. After all, the coldest time is the night, when the cost of electricity is minimal, you just need to use a multi-tariff meter. In addition, such systems are easily regulated and automated.

    Use of solid fuel

    Heating greenhouses with wood is the most common and cheapest way, although troublesome. It is most often implemented using homemade stoves- brick or metal, for example, such as Buleryan.

    One or more stoves are installed in the center of the structure, and its chimney is first laid horizontally and only then turns and goes outside. The goal is to extract as much heat from the flue gases as possible, so that the horizontal section can reach a length of 10 m.

    Advice. A horizontal pipe should be laid with a slope towards the furnace in order to facilitate the passage of combustion products and improve natural draft.

    When it is planned to install a water heating system, a solid fuel boiler is installed in the greenhouse or outside it. The first option is more preferable, since all the heat will remain inside the building, while the second one is used for the heat supply of several greenhouse structures from one solid fuel boiler. It is important to take into account 2 points: to insulate the highways passing along the street, and not to install shutoff valves on pipe sections outside the greenhouse.

    How to choose a boiler for a greenhouse

    Regardless of whether you decide to heat the building with wood or electricity, you must first find out the amount of heat needed for it. Here you can not do without calculation, and in order to complete it, you need to know the exact area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe floor and the translucent part of the greenhouse. In addition, you need to find data on the lowest daily temperature for your area, as well as the average wind speed during that day. This information is specified in the standard called "Construction climatology and geophysics".

    On the nomogram shown above, we find the graph corresponding to the lowest temperature. Then, from the abscissa axis (wind speed), we draw a line until we meet this graph and determine the specific heat loss along the ordinate axis in relation to the fencing coefficient. It is easier to show the calculation using an example for a greenhouse with a floor area of ​​700 m2, glazing - 980 m2. Then, with a wind of 4.7 m/s and a temperature of -30 °C, according to the graph, the value of Q/k is 388 W/m2.

    Now we need to find the fencing coefficient k, it is equal to the ratio of the area of ​​translucent structures to the area of ​​the floor. In our example, k = 980/700 = 1.4, then Q = 388k = 388 x 1.4 = 543 W/m2. It remains only to find out the total heat loss by multiplying the specific (543 W / m2) by the area of ​​the polycarbonate greenhouse (700 m2): 700 x 543 \u003d 380,000 W or 380 kW.

    To select a boiler for a greenhouse, you need to multiply the heat loss value by the safety factor. Whatever heat source you take - solid fuel or gas, it cannot work at maximum all the time. For those greenhouses that are built of polycarbonate or using glass, the safety factor will be 1.3, and those covered with ordinary film - at least 1.5.

    Advice. It is always better to choose a solid fuel boiler for long burning with a one and a half power reserve and large firebox sizes. This will save you from frequent loadings of firewood or coal in the middle of the night.

    Conclusion

    The organization of heating a winter greenhouse is a simpler event than a heating device for a residential building. Here, almost all the work can be done independently, if you have the appropriate skills. The main thing is to choose a suitable heat source and energy carrier. Finally - the traditional advice on energy saving: in greenhouses it is very important to insulate the floors under the beds, which will give significant savings. good for this purpose suitable foam not less than 100 mm thick.

    Many gardeners are interested in ensuring that the greenhouse does not stand idle during the cold season. But for growing plants in winter, a temperature regime of at least + 18 ° C is required. Farmers face a difficult task - to think over the heating of the greenhouse in order to collect several crops and have fresh fruits and vegetables on the table all year round.

    To get an excellent result, you need to take care of the heating in the greenhouse

    Arrangement of a year-round greenhouse

    On sale for a long time there are ready-made greenhouse structures with high-quality heating provided. This is necessary in harsh climatic conditions for both farmers and private traders. If desired, you can prepare an ordinary greenhouse for use in winter time.


    Heating in a greenhouse will help grow crops in winter

    It is advisable to insulate the base so that hypothermia of the soil does not lead to a decrease in yield:

    1. The foundation can be a wooden platform. It is treated with an antiseptic and covered with a waterproofing material.
    2. The second option is pouring concrete with further insulation with foam.

    A high-quality foundation base will significantly reduce heat loss in winter. But no less important role is played by the covering material for greenhouses. Most often it is glass or polycarbonate. Despite the external similarity, they have large differences in characteristics.

    Glass perfectly transmits light, but its weight and inability to bend complicates installation, and high thermal conductivity does not allow maintaining a stable temperature during the day. Polycarbonate greenhouses are the highest quality constructions for year-round use. Having made heating in a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, you can be sure of good early harvests.

    In this video you will learn how to insulate a greenhouse:

    Heating options

    When choosing a heating method, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of using your greenhouse, its area, climate, seedling varieties, types of heating in a residential building and financial possibilities. In a small greenhouse, it is impractical to install an expensive heating system.

    It is also necessary to understand the main sources of heating:

    • solar;
    • biological;
    • furnace;
    • electric;
    • gas;
    • air.

    Having chosen the appropriate method, you can mount the heating of the greenhouse with your own hands.

    Natural Ways

    Simple and economical natural heating methods are auxiliary. These are solar energy and biofuels.


    The sun is the most economical form of energy

    Solar heating is suitable for regions where the climate is mild and the average winter temperature does not drop below zero. For colder regions, this method has been used since March-April. In order for the plants to receive a sufficient amount of light and heat, the greenhouse must be placed in a well-lit place without drafts.

    The transparent rounded roof warms up better in the sun. Such an arcuate shape of greenhouse structures is the most resistant to winds and various loads.

    Warming organics

    The use of biofuels has been proven for centuries. The old folk method is based on the ability of organic matter to release a large amount of heat during decomposition. Experienced gardeners use this to set up warm beds by mixing pet manure with compost made from rotted straw, bark residue, grass, leaves, or unusable fruit. Horse manure heats up especially quickly.


    Manure will fertilize, and at the same time warm the soil

    Instead of manure, you can use special dry briquettes that do not have a specific smell, but are just as effective. To start, biofuel is added a little bit into well-loosened soil. When steam begins to flow from the beds a week later, they can be covered with fertile soil and seedlings can be planted. High warm beds are convenient and practical in terms of caring for them.

    Natural cheap methods are auxiliary, because solar energy is not always enough to heat the greenhouse, and biofuel begins to decompose only at a certain temperature.

    In case of frost, such heating will not save the plants, so it is impossible to do without capital heat sources in winter. Having studied the basic systems, you can make home-made heating in the greenhouse.

    More about winter heating:

    Basic heating systems

    To maintain the optimum temperature in the greenhouse, there are different ways. The easiest is to install a greenhouse over a heating main laid in the ground. The main rule for all heating systems is the uniform distribution of warm air flows around the entire perimeter of the room.

    It will not be difficult to make air heating a greenhouse with your own hands. To do this, a piece of steel pipe is inserted into the greenhouse at one end, and the other is left outside. A fire is kindled under it, warming the air in the pipe, which will be distributed throughout the greenhouse. This is an easy way, but not very convenient, since you need to constantly monitor the fire.

    Gas heating has its advantages in terms of constant supply and affordable price. It will be more economical for owners of private greenhouses to purchase bottled gas than to carry it from home to the greenhouse. The main disadvantage of this method is in the allocation a large number carbon dioxide, which will inhibit plant growth. In this case, it is necessary to consider an exhaust hood for combustion products. Small gas guns are effective and safe to use. They can quickly heat a greenhouse with minimal gas consumption.


    Warm beds can be done by hand

    For heating by means of electricity, a variety of devices are used: radiators, infrared lamps, heaters, heat guns, cable equipment. The most economical way is to lay a special electrical cable along the beds. It is buried in the soil by 10 cm, after which it will heat the plants, consuming electricity depending on the power. Sometimes the cable is laid in the walls, which prevents the entry of cold. The heating cable is often installed as an additional source of heating.

    The "grandfather" version of heating - stove - is very common among gardeners in countryside. It does not depend on the supply of gas and electricity sources. The fuel for the stove can be wood, coal. It is not recommended to install a metal stove-stove near the walls due to strong heating, because. because of this, the material of the greenhouse structure may be damaged. Such an oven must be installed in the center of the room on a solid foundation. Metal furnaces equipped with a water or air circuit can be located anywhere.

    A brick oven is preferable, which keeps heat well and does not dry out the air. A special pipe with access to the street is designed to remove smoke and gases. A brick oven is great for heating a greenhouse on frosty days. The disadvantages of this method are the constant monitoring of the furnace and the quality of the fuel.


    Heating of this type will warm both the air and the ground

    Water heating is considered the most efficient and economically beneficial. This requires a solid fuel or gas boiler for heating water and several pipes. As an option - heating water with a boiler, followed by pumping into pipes using a pump. In this way, both air and soil can be heated. Do-it-yourself installation of water heating for a greenhouse is quite within the power of economic gardeners and farmers. You can also connect to a common heating system with a separate circuit for autonomy.

    All heating methods have their pros and cons. Each gardener can find for himself the least expensive option in terms of finances and efforts. It is possible that this will be a whole heating system designed for long years work. Knowing the installation features of popular heating methods, having calculated the amount of cash investments, it is quite possible to make heating in a greenhouse with your own hands.

    How to make heating in a greenhouse with your own hands:

    Heating the greenhouse is the key to getting a good, timely harvest. Many gardeners use water heating of the greenhouse, due to which it is possible to create in buildings of this type the temperature regime necessary for full growth. Such systems are relatively cheap, and the operation is quite simple. And how to make water heating in a greenhouse on your own, you will learn from this publication.

    System Benefits

    For many years, horticultural farmers could not come to a consensus on what type of greenhouse heating is the most acceptable and profitable. Of course, the selection of a heating system for buildings of this type largely depends on the primary conditions, in particular on the possibility of connecting to a centralized gas or water main. But still in recent times most often used water heating in the greenhouse.

    When choosing heating a greenhouse, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the structure, the heating system in a nearby residential building and the amount of financial resources that will be used to equip the shelter.

    The water heating device is notable for the fact that it is powered by a boiler operating on any type of fuel:

    • gas;
    • electric;
    • solid fuel;
    • liquid fuel;
    • combined.

    Speaking more plain language In order to perform water heating for a greenhouse, all kinds of materials can be used, which greatly reduces costs. And in order to implement water heating of the greenhouse with your own hands, you need to draw up a work plan, where there is a scheme, development projects, based on which the construction will be erected.

    The main advantage of such a system is safety (when compared with electric cable and heating devices), and the creation of a humid environment.

    Since cellular polycarbonate does not accumulate condensate, the resulting moisture completely drains into the ground, additionally moistening it.

    VIDEO: How water heating of a greenhouse works from a gas boiler

    Pipes - what should they be

    To make water heating for subsoil and overground heating, it is possible to use two types of pipes:

    1. Metal. There are many options in this category, but corrugated stainless steel pipes are especially popular among them. They have a high heat dissipation, but at the same time you need to mount them very carefully, placing the system as far as possible from the rhizome of the grown vegetation. Thanks to this, it will be possible to avoid burns of the roots of seedlings and, accordingly, their death.
    2. Metal-plastic and plastic. This version of the pipes is characterized by a lower heat transfer coefficient, but at the same time it does an excellent job of heating the structure even in winter.

    Sometimes you can find water subsoil heating for greenhouses from polyethylene pipes. But it should be understood that such systems are suitable only when the coolant temperature does not exceed 40 °.

    Many prefer budget options in the form of greenhouse shelters of a small area, since large structures are very difficult and financially expensive to heat during the cold season.

    It is a fact! If the greenhouse is an extension to residential building, then it will take less strength and energy to warm it up.

    Radiators as a source of heating in greenhouses are rarely used. Instead of such heating elements, gardeners equip their buildings with wide pipes, which are located directly under the arch of the structure.

    The universal pipeline laying scheme is considered optimal - from two working circuits:

    1. The first one lies under a layer of fertile soil and its task is to heat the root system of plants. The coolant temperature should not be higher than 30-40°C.
    2. The second is laid along the walls of the room in order to heat the air directly. In order to control the temperature in the room, it is advisable to install an automatic thermostat that will maintain the optimum level.

    Some gardeners install heating pipes under the ceiling for circulation, but this is not practical for large areas. Keeping in mind the laws of physics, warm air rises, and in this case it simply does not circulate. Near the soil, the air is quite cold, which does not have the best effect on the condition of the plants.

    At what depth to lay the pipeline

    Pipes, as mentioned above, in most cases are laid under the ground to a certain depth. This indicator is influenced by several points:

    • type of crop grown (heat-loving, cold-resistant, etc.);
    • preferences of the owner of the greenhouse structure.

    Some gardeners lay the pipeline system to a depth of no more than 30 cm, while other owners of such buildings lay pipes 50 cm from the soil level. Both options are acceptable, it all depends on the temperature of the coolant.

    It must also be remembered that if the pipeline system is laid too deep, then it will take a long time to create the optimal temperature regime in the room. Whereas in the case of a close location of pipes to the soil surface, the greenhouse will warm up quickly, but there is a risk that the root system, having reached its the largest, in contact with the thermal circuit will get burned. And this, in turn, hello to the withering and death of the plant.

    Speaking of numbers, when laying the heating circuit to a depth of 50 cm, the warm-up time will be about two weeks. And with a contour depth of 30 cm, this figure will be reduced to 6 days. True, there is some caveat here. In the first case, to maintain the set temperature conditions in the room, it will be necessary to turn on the system 12 hours a day, while in the second case, it is necessary to heat around the clock.

    Water heating device

    The furnace or heating boiler, as a rule, is located in the vestibule of the greenhouse shelter, less often in the building itself. The first option, when burning wood or coal, does not prevent moving around the greenhouse and carrying out any work on growing vegetation.

    When locating the boiler in the greenhouse room, it must be taken into account that heat also comes from the heating element itself. Choose a place for the boiler with special care so that nearby plants do not suffer from excessive heating.

    Algorithm for a water heating device in a greenhouse:

    1. First of all, you need to calculate the pipeline system and decide what footage of pipes will be required to implement the task.
    2. The next step is the construction of the foundation. If the heating of the greenhouse will be carried out at the expense of a brick oven, then a concrete foundation is needed under it. In the case of a metal heater, a steel or asbestos-cement sheet will fit.
    3. After that, you need heater remove the chimney. The joints of this element with the boiler (furnace) must be sealed using, for example, clay mortar.
    4. Next, you need to take care of ventilation, without which it will not be possible to achieve a suitable microclimate in buildings of this type.

    To the output and to the input of the heating device are connected exclusively metal pipes the same diameter. And only at a distance of 1-1.5 m from the boiler, you can switch to plastic or metal-plastic pipes.

    1. Before laying the pipeline assembly, you need to install the expansion tank in highest point rooms in close proximity to heating equipment. It is recommended to install an auto-air shut-off valve and a pressure gauge upstream of the expander.
    2. After that, you can proceed to the installation of pipes. The method of laying the heating pipeline depends on the size of the room. The only thing I wanted to add was the step of laying the contour plastic pipes must be at least 30 cm.

    In order to prevent the escape of thermal energy into the ground, the heat-insulating layer is made of a material that does not allow moisture to pass through (for example, polystyrene foam). And on top of the thermal insulation, you can perform another layer of waterproofing, for which PET film is used.

    Now you know how to make water heating in your greenhouse so that the soil and plants growing indoors are always in a suitable microclimate. A thorough approach to the implementation of the task will help you get a high-quality, timely harvest!

    VIDEO: Water heating with a pump

    A greenhouse is a great option for growing various vegetables, as it creates unique climatic conditions contributing to the rate of growth. In addition, the greenhouse allows you to get an early harvest, when it is still not warm enough outside for the full-fledged cultivation of vegetables. However, in order to create optimal conditions in the spring, the greenhouse needs heating, which will ensure the temperature is not lower than 18 degrees Celsius.

    insulated greenhouse

    • Solar heating and batteries;
    • air heating;
    • Heating with gas;
    • Heating with a solid fuel boiler;
    • Stove heating;
    • Water heating;

    So, now a little more about the organization of each type of heating.

    solar heating

    solar heating

    Main components:

    • Photoelectric generator;
    • Control block;
    • Conversion block;
    • Accumulator battery;
    • The heat-releasing element is the consumer.

    The principle of operation is as follows.Solar radiation affects the photovoltaic generator, which, when exposed to sunlight, begins to emit an electric current that enters the battery through the control unit, where it is accumulated and transmitted through the conversion unit to the heating element in the greenhouse.

    The best option for the design of a greenhouse for organizing this type of heating is an arched transparent.

    It is important to ensure the tightness of the greenhouse structure in order to eliminate drafts.

    The photovoltaic generator is placed in a place that is lit from early morning, it immediately starts working to heat the greenhouse. Heating element placed under a layer of soil. The battery is designed to store energy in order to heat the greenhouse at night. This heating option will allow you to maintain the required temperature in the greenhouse, even if it drops to 5 degrees outside at night..

    The main disadvantage of such a system is the high cost of components.

    Air heating of greenhouses

    To implement it, you need an ordinary steel pipe with an internal diameter of about 60 millimeters and 3 meters long. One of the ends of the pipe through a hole in the wall is placed in the space of the greenhouse, and the other end is brought out into the street. Under it, a small fire is bred, the warm air from which heats the pipe and the air in it.

    This method is simple, but completely inconvenient for implementation, since it is not possible to constantly maintain a fire.

    Gas heating

    Gas heating of the greenhouse

    This method of heating consists in the installation of a gas-fired heating device. It is also necessary to purchase 2 gas cylinders. When the gas is burned, the air in the greenhouse will heat up and provide optimal conditions for growing vegetables.

    The main problem of this method of heating is the accumulation of greenhouses in the room. excess carbon dioxide, which negatively affects the growth of vegetables. Therefore, when implementing this heating system ventilation is required, providing additional air flow to maintain combustion.

    Installation of a solid fuel heating boiler

    Alternatively, you can install a solid fuel boiler in the greenhouse or next to it.

    solid fuel boiler for greenhouse

    In this case, the following components will be needed to install the heating system:

    • Boiler;
    • Pipe system;
    • Several radiators.

    The advantage of this option is that it does not require a constant load of firewood. Modern solid fuel boilers allow you to maintain combustion from just 2 fuel loads per day. The disadvantage is the need for additional installation of pipelines and heating radiators.

    Furnace heating of the greenhouse

    Stove heating is implemented if the greenhouse area is more than 15 square meters.

    There are two layout options.

    Option 1

    This is a simple option, you will need:

    • An ordinary small heating stove of the "potbelly stove" type;
    • Chimney pipe;
    • Chimney;
    • Chalk or lime.

    The stove is installed on one side of the greenhouse, and the chimney passes through the greenhouse and ends with a chimney that leads the combustion products outside the greenhouse. As a result, the chimney pipe heats up and gives off heat to the air in the greenhouse.

    In this case, it is important to monitor the tightness of the chimney pipe, since the ingress of smoke into the greenhouse room is unacceptable. For the fastest detection of smoke leaks, it is necessary to paint the pipe with chalk or lime - on a white surface, places that let smoke through will be clearly visible.

    To ensure good draft, it is necessary to install a chimney pipe with an overestimation to the chimney- about 1.5-2 centimeters per linear meter of pipe.

    In order to fire safety it is necessary to ensure the distance from the chimney to the racks with vegetables at least 15 cm distance. It is also necessary to place the stove, chimney and chimney at a distance of at least 25-30 centimeters from the walls of the greenhouse.

    Option 2

    Second option furnace heating consists in laying the pipeline system.

    For its installation you will need:

    • Large barrel;
    • Stove;
    • Expansion tank;
    • Drain valve;
    • Pipes of rectangular (40x20 mm) or round section (up to 30 mm);
    • Chimney pipe;
    • Circulation pump.

    A large barrel plays the role of a housing for the heating system. It fits the stove, expansion tank. The chimney from the stove goes outside the greenhouse in the form of a vertical 5 meter pipe.

    ventilation installation required

    The expansion tank is welded to the walls of a large barrel-case above the stove, so that the heat from burning firewood goes to heat the water. Pipes are welded to the expansion tank, which are laid along the perimeter of the greenhouse at a distance of 1-1.5 meters. Since the arrangement of the pipes is horizontal, it is not possible to realize the natural circulation of the coolant, therefore a small circulation pump is connected to the pipeline system.

    With water heating, an almost constant air temperature in the greenhouse is obtained.

    To implement this method, you will need the following components:

    • Old big fire extinguisher;
    • Heating element;
    • Temperature sensor;
    • Pipe system.

    3 holes are cut out in the fire extinguisher body: for a hot pipe, for a return pipe and for installing a heating element. A pipe is drawn from the upper hole, which is laid in the upper part of the greenhouse, and a pipe runs from the lower hole along the bottom of the greenhouse. It is important to weld the heater and pipes tightly to eliminate water leaks.

    The heating element is connected to the mains, the water is heated, and its natural circulation through the pipes is ensured. An important element of the heating system is a temperature sensor, which is installed in the greenhouse and measures the air temperature. When a certain value is reached, it turns off the heating element. When the temperature drops, the heating element starts working again. The result is an almost constant air temperature in the greenhouse.

    Outcome

    As you can see, there are a lot of options for heating a greenhouse. However, you should not get lost in this variety - you need to determine the optimal and most profitable for yourself, and then proceed with the installation work.

    Video on how to make energy-saving greenhouse heating with your own hands

    In this video you will learn how to make greenhouse heating in winter by installing infrared panels

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