Distance from the floor when installing interior doors. Door installation: SNiP defines the requirements, tolerances and necessary control

The front door is a reliable barrier to intruders entering the house. An important point is the choice of a lock for a similar design, which allows you to enhance protection. Locks come in various types and classes of burglary resistance. It is necessary to correctly approach the process of selecting and installing locking products. Installation is not difficult, but follow the instructions.

Inserting a suitable lock into a wooden door

Attention! AT country houses often mount wooden doors. The question arises how to embed. The process itself is typical, so it is important to follow the instructions, choosing the right tools for this. The lock itself must fit the door in order to achieve positive results and durability of operation.

What tools are needed?

The first thing you need is to pick up the lock itself and the required tools for installation. Among the most necessary are the following:

1. Chalk and a simple pencil, which will be required for marking.
2. Electric drill. To her - a set of drills for woodworking. Their sizes are from 2 to 7 mm.
3. Chisels. They must be sharp. Two pieces are enough - wide and narrow.
4. Roulette and square to it.
5. A hammer.
6. Rasp with a large notch or round file.
7. Screwdriver. If not, use an ordinary screwdriver.

After the tools are prepared, they begin to work. Installation is considered more difficult than overhead installation. In the latter case, there is no need to cut a suitable hole, so installing a lock or latch on the door is simple. In any case, it is important to know how to do it correctly and what to consider.

Installed lock with a handle on a wooden door

The very insertion of a lock of any type into a wooden door may be needed for various reasons. The most common is building a house and installing doors, mechanisms, handles and latches. However, the replacement of the lock in wooden door also occurs frequently. The reasons are long-term operation, breakdown, problems with functioning or hacking. In any of these cases, it becomes necessary to establish mortise lock at the wooden door.

How to get started?

The first stage of installation is the creation of a special groove or hole for the lock body. To do this, you need to markup to determine at what height to mount the product. Most often, the height reaches 90-100 cm from the floor. But this size varies depending on the ease of use. The height is selected for people who will use the lock or latch and handle.

Creating a groove for the bar with a chisel

After you have determined the height, the markup is performed. To do this, the lock is applied to the door with the part that will be mounted in the hole on the canvas. With the help of chalk or pencil circle the body of the product. The result is a label that allows you to understand where the locking mechanism will be located.

The hole is cut with a drill bit. In this case, it is worth giving preference to the product that corresponds in width to the thickness of the castle. Drilling a hole is done in different ways. The first method involves carefully and gradually moving the drill inside the door leaf by 1-2 centimeters until the required mark is reached. The second method involves immediately drilling a hole.

The hole itself should be larger than the width of the lock body by 1-2 mm. This will ensure that the lock enters the created hole without obstruction. It is recommended to keep the drill perpendicular to the end of the door and parallel to the surface. Aligning the edges of the hole is done with a hammer and chisel.

Marking the lock on the end of the door leaf

Important! To hide the lock in the hole, make it deeper by 2-3 mm than the width of the case.

The marking of the bar and its installation is carried out in a similar way. To do this, it is applied to the resulting hole and circled along the contour with a pencil. Knocking out along the marked lines is best done with a chisel so as not to spoil the edges of the lock hole.

The next step is the hole for the mechanism

To install in a wooden door, you should take care of the presence of a hole for the mechanism of the product. Only after that you can put a lock or latch in the door, proceed with the installation of the handle. The installation of the mechanism itself or the larva involves precise marking. To do this, the lock body is applied opposite the previously obtained groove. Fasteners are marked on the door leaf with a pencil. After that, the holes are drilled using a drill that fits the diameter.

Fastening a latch on a wooden door

As a result, grooves are obtained, the edges of which should be carefully leveled. It is best to use a file for these purposes, which will help you quickly deal with the problem. If you plan to additionally install a latch or handle, it is important to know how to properly insert the lock in this case. Installation is reduced to drilling additional holes for the rods and screws that act as fasteners for the latch or handle.

We can assume that the preparation for inserting the lock is completed. The lock should be inserted into the prepared grooves and secured with appropriate fasteners. All elements are fastened with self-tapping screws and bolts, the need to use additional elements no.

Last steps of installation work

The final stage of work is the creation of a hole in the door frame for normal functioning the lock itself, the latch or the doorknob. If you omit this moment, the door will not close properly and fit snugly. This should be done only after you have made sure that the lock is functioning normally, that there are no problems or jamming.

To mark the hole, a small amount of chalk is applied to the tongue or crossbars of the mechanism. After that, the door is closed by turning the mechanism. As a result, a trace of chalk can be seen on the jamb. Here it is necessary to create holes for the crossbars of the mechanism or the tongue of the handle.

The principle of cutting holes is similar to cutting a hole for the lock or latch itself. There are no differences here. You can use a drill or a hammer with a chisel, being careful not to remove excess material. If the markup is done correctly, as a result you will get holes into which the lock bolts enter without problems. Now fasten the striker plate in accordance with the markings. As fasteners, special self-tapping screws are used. On this, the installation of the lock is considered complete, and the door is ready for operation.

Final stage installation work installing a lock on a wooden door

Now you know how to insert a lock and a handle to it. In general, the installation of the mechanism is not complicated and is available for self-fulfillment. Experts recommend that before installing a lock, latch, handle and other mechanisms, carefully read the instructions. This will allow you to understand how to install the lock and latch handle correctly, how to avoid problems and ensure long-term operation. If there are problems, it is worth contacting professionals who will quickly correct the situation that has arisen, providing your home reliable protection from intruders.

A man should be able to do any job around the house: nail a shelf, fix a faucet, or put a lock on a door. All this work requires not only skillful hands but also knowledge. The following will be instructions on how to embed the lock in the door correctly. This process is not that difficult, but it requires a certain level of training that any homeowner should have.

A set of necessary elements for mortise lock

In order to embed the locking element into the door correctly the first time, without damaging the material and without deforming the surface, you need to have the necessary set of tools at hand. You can not do without a drill or screwdriver, which must have the function of drilling. This is necessary in order to make a hole in the door. To cut a hole of the correct shape and right size, you will need a set of round nozzles.

They are good for drilling wood. You also need to have a hammer and a chisel on hand, with which it is easy to grind the hole and place a device for closing the doors in it. In order to make the necessary measurements, you will need a tape measure, ruler or centimeter. To mark the desired points on the very surface of the door, you can use a simple pencil. To fix the lock, you can not do without a screwdriver. That's all the basic tools that are required to do-it-yourself lock tie-in.

Before inserting the closing mechanism, it is necessary to determine its location on the surface of the door. In order to choose the most convenient position of the lock and handle, you should simply try to open an imaginary door while standing in front of the surface of the door without a lock. At what level the hand will be, there you need to make a hole in order to open and close it easily and comfortably. In the event that there is a child in the family, you need to install the lock a little lower so that the child does not experience discomfort when manipulating the lock handle. The place that was determined empirically must be marked with a pencil directly on the surface of the door. Preparatory work over!

Plane marking for work

The next step in the process of inserting the closing device is to make a hole in the material of the door. Before drilling, you need to accurately determine the place where the drill with the crown should be located. To do this correctly, you need to take the closing mechanism itself and use a tape measure to determine the distance from its visible edge to the pin hole, which organizes the entire operation of this device.

It is this distance from the edge of the door that should be noted at the height that was previously determined. After the place for drilling is determined, you need to choose the right bit for the drill.

Proper selection of drill bits is the key to quality work

The main difficulty in choosing a crown for drilling is correct selection its diameter. It should be wide enough for the closing mechanism to pass through, and narrow enough so that the hole is not visible due to the outside of the latch. To do this, you need to measure the height of the visible part of the latch and subtract a few centimeters from this distance. With this hole diameter, the mechanism should fit inside the door space, but the hole will not be visible under the cover of the lock body.

For those who are afraid to make a mistake in the calculations, there are special crowns that are made to make holes for door locks. Typically, these crowns are sold in a set of 2 tools. different diameter. After the necessary measurements of the hole diameter are made, you can start drilling. In the drilling process, there is one trick that allows you to work efficiently. To do this, you need to drill not on one side, but on both. First, drill to the middle of one side, then the other. So the hole will turn out to be as even and smooth as possible.

How to cut a hole in the butt?

After the hole on the plane has been cut, do the same at the end of the door. The mechanism for closing the door will be inserted into this space, so you need to make a hole carefully and carefully. The drill bit must be directed so that it is exactly in the middle of the door end. The size of the crown must be selected according to the principle similar to the process of selecting the diameter of the hole on the surface. In order for the tie-in of the lock to be considered complete, you need to make one more small touch. It is required to make a small recess so that the latch can be completely hidden in the end. If this is not done, it may cling to the door jamb, which will create problems with opening the door.

Then you need to insert the closing mechanism into the hole and circle its entire visible part. with a simple pencil. After that, the latch can be pulled out. Now you need to scrape out the void inside the door with a chisel. The recess that should result from this work should be sufficient to accurately accommodate the outer plate. This work must be done as carefully as possible, since too much empty space can ruin the door, and the mechanism will stagger. Therefore, it is desirable to have experience with a chisel.

Installing a lock in a hole

When all the holes and recesses are ready, you can proceed to the final part - installing the lock. It is very important not to make a mistake. At first it may seem that there is no difference between the sides of the locking device. However, if it is equipped with a stopper, then there is this difference. The handles of the lock most often actually rotate in both directions, but the stopper only works in one direction. Therefore, it is necessary that it be directed towards the end. The stopper can be operated with a key or a separate latch.

Hole for the lock tongue in the door jamb

The main thing is not to forget that the hole for the latch tongue should also be on the door jamb. To do it right, you need to start measuring after the lock has been embedded, and the door itself is hung on hinges. This hole should be where the tongue rests against the door jamb. The depth of the hole should not be less than the lock tongue. It is most convenient to make a recess in the door jamb with a chisel.

Every man should know how to embed the lock inside the door on his own.

Of course, many would entrust this matter to a professional, but it is always more pleasant to do the difficult work yourself. Then the result will bring real pleasure, and the person will receive invaluable experience.

You bought, say, a new interior door and decided to assemble the door frame yourself and install this very door without any experience. Well, it happens that some things have to be done for the first time. The most important thing here is to take your time and be attentive to what you are doing.

When for the first time I had to install interior doors in one of the apartments, I must admit, sawing the first box, I made a mistake. As a result, I had to buy a new set of boxes. Ever since then, I have been very attentive and accurate when doing the work of assembling and installing doors.

When cutting elements door frame there is no room for error, you need to remember this. As the saying goes, measure twice, cut once!
So, the door has been brought in and is standing in the corridor, perhaps for the second week already. There is nowhere else to put it off and it's time to get down to business. A reasonable question arises. Where to start?

Marking the door leaf for tie-in

You should start by marking on the door leaf the place where it will be recessed latch handle. The door leaf is, in fact, the door itself without additional elements, boxes, extensions and platbands.

To begin with, decide in which direction the door will open, the position of the bevel of the latch tongue will depend on this. Now you need to determine the height at which the door handle will be located. As a rule, the handle is cut at a height of 90-100 cm from the floor or threshold. In rooms, of course, there are no thresholds. But in the bathroom or toilet, they are very possible.

In a box with door handle, you will almost certainly find instructions with the dimensions for which you need to markup. Often the dimensions are indicated on the box itself. Ordinary handles are almost always installed in the same pattern. Construction tool stores sell special kits for tapping handles into the canvas. interior doors. The set consists of a pen drill, 23 mm in diameter. and crowns for wood, with a diameter of 50-54 mm.

So, mark a distance of 95 cm on the end of the door leaf. Using a square, draw a clear line perpendicular to the end of the leaf. Mark the middle on it and pierce it. You can pierce with any sharp object, an awl, a nail or a self-tapping screw. At this point, you will need to drill a hole for the latch. But don't rush, it's not time yet!

Need to continue pen markings, or speaking professionally, for knoba. To do this, you need to continue the line at the end further to the canvas itself on both sides. This must be done strictly perpendicular to the door leaf, using a square. It would be useful to recall that the pencil must be sharply sharpened.

Here you should pay attention to one detail. The handle can be positioned at a distance of 60 or 70 mm. from the edge. To do this, the adjustable latch length design allows. Decide which distance suits you best, and mark the desired distance on both sides of the canvas on the lines drawn earlier.

Please note that on a blank canvas, that is, on one that does not have decorative elements in the form of planks, glasses, and other things, the distance from the edge at which the handle will be embedded is not critical. After all, the canvas is absolutely flat and smooth. But the presence of decorative inserts can limit the location of the handle. And if you decide to embed the handle at a distance of 70 mm. from the edge of the door leaf, make sure that the handle does not block decorative elements. Otherwise, make a mark of 60 mm. from the edge.

Drilling a hole for the handle

drilled first pen hole, then for latches. It is more comfortable. Firstly, when you start drilling the end, you will know exactly when to stop, and secondly, all the chips will simply fall down when drilling the end, and you will not need to sweep or blow it out with a vacuum cleaner, which is very inconvenient.

So, take a drill, fix a wood crown (50-54 mm.) into the chuck and start drilling from one side, having previously marked the marked point. Do not try to drill through the entire canvas "in one go". Firstly, you will not have enough depth of the crown itself, and secondly, the teeth of the crown will become clogged with sawdust, the crown will get very hot and burn the tree, and the deeper, the stronger. We just needed a fire!

Having drilled 4-6 mm, without turning off the drill, pull it towards you, removing the crown from drilled hole. There is no need to turn on the reverse and generally make sudden movements. Everything should happen smoothly, but surely.

Clean the teeth of the crown from sawdust. Be careful, it can be very hot! It all depends on the material of the door leaf and the degree of its humidity. The denser the material and the wetter, the more the crown heats up. But the crown with blunt, worn teeth is heated most of all. Never use this! Buy a new one is my advice.

After cleaning the teeth of the crown, and allowing it to cool if necessary, immerse it in the place where it was taken out some time ago, and continue this important mechanical operation to obtain the much-needed hole. As I already mentioned, the crown, due to its limited depth, will not allow the canvas to pass through. Having drilled halfway, you should go to the other side and repeat the whole operation again. Here you need to be more careful. Approaching the middle of the canvas, do not press hard, let yourself enjoy the last seconds of this exciting process! Otherwise, you run the risk of slipping through the crown and hitting the door leaf hard with a drill. And we don’t want to scratch it or leave a dent, right?

Drilling a hole for the latch

Let's move on to the next step. We take out the crown from the drill chuck, not forgetting about its elevated temperature. We clamp a feather drill with a diameter of 23 mm into the chuck. Pay attention to the photo. It shows that the size of 25 mm is stamped on the drill. But be calm, no cheating! It’s just that I didn’t have a drill of the required diameter, and I used a “perk” of 25 mm, after grinding its edges with a grinder to the desired diameter. Here's a little trick, take note.

Drilling must be strictly perpendicular to the end of the door leaf. At first it seemed to me that it was very difficult to control. I mean perpendicularity. But then I realized that this is easy to do, just watching how evenly the drill selects the circle. This is especially noticeable at the beginning of drilling, and having gone a little deeper, you can hardly worry that the drill will deviate from the set course. But this does not mean at all that you can relax and look not at the drill, but at the cat sprinkled with sawdust passing by.

Installing a latch for an interior door

Well, what! The drilling of the holes is completed, now you need to drown the latch bar into the end of the door leaf so that it is “flush” with the plane. Professionals do this with a manual milling machine, but not everyone has one, so you have to work with a hammer and chisel.

Insert the latch into the hole and circle it with a sharpened pencil. In order to keep the plank in place during the stroke, I usually immediately drill holes for the fastening screws and twist them slightly, fixing the plank. After circling the bar, remove the latch and grab the chisel. Do I need to say that the chisel should be not just sharp, but very sharp?!

Installing a lock on the interior door will increase the comfort of living. This is very convenient, as it allows you to limit the access of a small child to those rooms where he can interfere with adults or get injured. Therefore, cutting a lock is a fairly common job that almost any homeowner can do.

In the process of performing work on embedding the lock, the following tools will be required:

• The lock itself, with a set of handles and bolts
• Square and pencil
• Drill
• Crown drill, 5 cm in diameter
• 23 mm spade drill
• Chisel
• Screwdriver or screwdriver.

The presence of the entire set of tools will allow you to perform all stages of work quickly and accurately. If something is missing, then it is better to ask friends or acquaintances for a tool than to try to do without them, as this will lead to poor performance and unsatisfactory appearance.

markup

Usually the handle is located at a height of about a meter from the floor, so it will be convenient for people of any height to use. Therefore, we measure 95 - 100 cm from the bottom edge of the canvas and make a mark. Then, at the selected level, using a square, mark the centers of future holes. On the end plane, the center of the lock will be in the middle, and on the side plane, it is necessary to step back from the edge of 6 - 10 cm. This is the place of the future lock and handle.

drilling

Drilling holes for the lock starts from the end. A drill bit is installed in the drill and a hole about three centimeters deep is drilled exactly in the marked center. This is the place for the tongue of the castle.

After that, a crown drill with a diameter of 5 centimeters is installed in the drill. With it, holes are drilled from the sides. If there is no certainty that it will be possible to drill a hole horizontally, without skew, then it is necessary to mark and drill from both sides. In this case, the drilling depth is equal to half the thickness of the door. If everything is done correctly, then you get a round through hole with a diameter of 5 centimeters, which has a side hole with a diameter of 23 millimeters.

Before installing the lock, it is necessary to cut out the notch for the latch. To do this, the lock is inserted into the door and the latch plate is circled with a pencil. Along this contour, with the help of a chisel and a hammer, a notch with a depth of about 3–5 mm is selected, depending on the thickness of the plate. At the same time, a notch for the tongue is cut out on the door jamb according to the size of the special lining. It is in it that the tongue of the lock will enter and fix the door in the closed state. When both notches are ready, the lock and notch on the jamb are fixed on the screws that usually come with the kit.

Installing handles

The further process does not cause any difficulties. The handle with screws is put in its place first. The screws are unscrewed, and the handle is inserted into the lock. To do this, the handle has a special square-section rod that passes through the corresponding hole in the lock. After that, a second handle is put on this rod from the other side and fixed with screws. Then decorative overlays and the handles themselves are put on. This completes the installation process.

After that, it remains only to remove the debris and tools.

Helpful notes

Even if you are confident in your abilities and know how to drill, it is better to work with a coronary drill from two sides. This will ensure a neat cut and there will be no chips and scuffs on the surface of the door that will ruin it. appearance.

It is better to drill a notch for the lock at the end of the door after the hole for the handles has been drilled. So you will be sure that the hole is fully connected to the main one. Otherwise, it may be necessary to drill a channel for the lock.

When choosing a recess for the lock plate, work must begin with the contour. With light blows, the entire contour is outlined, and only after that the wood is selected. This will prevent chips and cracks from appearing.

Do not overtighten the screws on the handles. The fixation should be tight, but not excessive. Otherwise, dents may appear on the surface of the door, spoiling its appearance.

Video How to make a lock in the door

After installation, the question inevitably arises of how to insert a lock into an interior door. The door should be tightly closed, easy to open and securely fixed in the opening. All these tasks are easily handled by a lock or a latch with a latch.

If possible, it is better to purchase doors with locks and handles already installed. Otherwise, this issue will have to be resolved by inviting the master or installing locks with your own hands.

Castle selection

As well as fittings, the castle must be in harmony with the interior, combined with the texture and colors environment. To a greater extent, it depends on the design of the lining and handles.

As for functionality, two types of mechanisms are suitable for interior doors:

• Mortise lock with or without separately mounted handle.
• Latch lock. As a rule, it is located in the handle itself and has a rounded shape.

AT recent times the installation of a magnetic door lock became popular. Such a device often eliminates the need to install push or turn type handles.

Using a magnetic mechanism is simple, and installing a magnetic lock with your own hands does not require the use of a special tool. The installation of a magnetic device is resorted to in cases where it is necessary to ensure noiseless operation and complete absence risk of scratching on the tongue or crossbars.

However, the installation of a lock in an interior door, depending on its type, has its own characteristics.

The thickness of the embedded door device should be no more than a third of the width of the end. It is recommended to work with exceptionally well-sharpened tools. The lock is not recommended to be mounted at the junction of the door bars.

Required Tools

To properly insert the lock into the door with your own hands, you should prepare the appropriate tool:

• Drill and a set of drill bits for wood.
• Milling cutter, chisel and carpenter's knife.
• A hammer.
• File.
• Screwdriver.
• Ruler or tape measure, pencil or chalk.

Insert Features

Door material can be very different. Solid wood products are the easiest to work with. The canvas is homogeneous, it is impossible to assemble the structure yourself and it is impossible to make a mistake with the insertion point. The tree is more difficult to drill, but the likelihood of errors and flaws when working with your own hands is greatly reduced.

MDF doors are the most problematic in this matter. This is due to the fact that it is very important to hit the power bar, which is located by default at a height of one meter from the floor. It's easy to remove the old one and install the new one.

Do-it-yourself installation of a mortise lock in PVC doors is not recommended. Without good skills professional tool Not sure it's going to happen. The fact is that mistakes are almost impossible to correct.

For this, the same tools are used plus carbon paper or plasticine. With their help, crossbar marks are made on the jamb in the fully closed position of the door.

Lock installation

For do-it-yourself installation, there is a special algorithm or work technology. To do everything right, you need to do the work in the following order:

• The first step is to remove the door. You need to remove cash. You will also have to remove the old lock.
• Then the interior door should be removed from the hinges and put on the edge of the floor with the hinges down.
• Then you need to measure the height, thickness and width of the lock body.
• 100 cm are measured from the bottom end of the canvas and a mark is applied. The second is planned from it at a distance equal to the height of the castle.

• Further, between the marks, two parallel lines are applied in the middle of the end of the leaf, spaced from each other by the thickness of the locking product. As a result, at the end of the door you should get a rectangle exactly under the lock body.
• Now holes are drilled inside our rectangle. The drill should be equal to or slightly smaller in diameter than the thickness of the lock body. The first hole is made in the center, and then above and below. The depth of the hole should correspond to the width of the lock, but first holes are made one cm deep, and then deepened to the desired size.
• Then the chisel comes into play. With its help, the correct cutout for the lock is formed. In the same way, a separate cutout is made under the handle.
• Now a cutout is made for the handle and the lock from the side of the canvas. The body of the lock is applied to the canvas and the position point of the axis of the mechanism is marked. At this point, a cutout is made for a cylinder or keyhole.
• When all cutouts are ready, the process of direct installation begins. The lock is inserted inside and, after checking the functionality, is fastened with self-tapping screws to the door. The lining on the end is screwed with self-tapping screws, also included in the kit.
• Handles are inserted and pads are screwed on.
• The door rises and hangs again on its hinges.
• Then markup is made for the answer on the jamb. The door is closed and the position of the tongue is marked. An overlay is applied and its extreme positions are marked.
• Cutouts are made in the same way, after which the overlay is screwed with self-tapping screws.

Latch Installation

First, the insertion point is marked. This is done using the paper template supplied with the kit. As a rule, the latch is placed at the intersection of the following lines:

• A horizontal floor held at a height of one meter.
• Vertical, drawn 6-7 cm from the edge of the canvas. This dimension depends on the depth of the latch latch.

On the video you can see the installation:

Then the handle mechanism is inserted and the size of the sample under the lock bar is marked with a pencil. The sample can be made with a chisel. The handle is attached with screws.

After that, the parts of the knob are connected with screws and a decorative ring is mounted. Then the door is closed, and the position of the striker is marked on the jamb. On the box, a selection is made for the tongue. A sample of 2 mm is made under the porch bar. Everything is fixed with screws.

As you can see, there is nothing supernatural. It is quite possible to put a lock with your own hands, if everything is done slowly and carefully. After installation, it makes sense to check the strength of the fasteners, the fixation of the linings, the handle and the lock body. If all is well, the castle will last a long time.

At installation of interior doors in an apartment should be carried out according to certain rules that customers should know. After all, about Mistakes in the repair and decoration of a room or apartment can seriously complicate installation and cost a pretty penny!

You will be able to reduce the cost of installation, avoid mistakes in the choice of doors, fittings and sizes of openings, help the craftsmen to do everything with high quality.

Door opening dimensions

• opening width

The door leaf is usually 60/70/80/90 cm wide. The correct width of the opening is the width of the canvas +8 or +9 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is from 1.5 cm to 2.5), or +10 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is 2.5 cm and above ).

• opening height

For all occasions correct height opening is the height of the door leaf + 6 cm. from the finished floor, that is, 206 cm. The doors to the bathroom can be 190 cm high, so the correct opening height is 196 cm.

Here are some examples of correct openings.:

• Canvas 80x200(cm) - opening 89x206(cm)
• 70x200 - opening 79x206
• 60x200 - opening 69x206
• 60x190 - opening 69x196

With dimensions doorways you need to decide in advance and it is very important to independently constantly monitor your team during the repair process.

Door width for different rooms

If you have the opportunity to plan the width of doors and openings in advance and have questions about what door width to choose, then follow these recommendations:

• doors in rooms are usually made 80 cm wide in order to be able to bring in / take out furniture. Width 90cm. it happens very rarely, since such canvases are heavy and can eventually sag on the hinges.
• the doors in the bathroom are usually made 60-70 cm so that washing machine 60cm thick. Keep in mind that 60cm. the door assembly has a clear opening of approximately 58cm. because of the porches in the door frame.
• the door leaf to the kitchen is usually made 70-80cm. It should also be taken into account that the handles on both sides can interfere with the passage to the kitchen.
• in dressing room usually make the width 60-70cm.

When do you need to install extensions?

When installing interior doors, if the wall thickness is greater than the thickness of the door frame, it is recommended to purchase. You can, of course, stick wallpaper on the ends of the walls, but it will look out of date, and there will be nothing to nail trim on the other side of the wall.

If installed, it will good decision, which will beautifully decorate the slopes. The color of the extensions can be chosen, for example, under the MDF panel.

The width of standard extensions according to the warehouse program is usually 10/12/15/20 cm. If your walls are very thick (more than 20 cm), then the extensions must be spliced ​​in width or non-standard extensions must be ordered at the factory, which will cost much more.

On which side of the door should the extensions be installed?

It depends entirely on how you planned the opening. Usually, if your door opens into a room, then the box is flush with the room wall, and the extension will be in the corridor, respectively.

If you do the opposite, the door will not open fully (it will rest against the extension). Sometimes they put up with this so that the doors look the same - ALL extensions to the corridor or all extensions to the rooms. Therefore, this is already a matter of convenience and design, taking into account the future arrangement of furniture in the apartment.

Scheme of opening interior doors

Usually, if in one corridor some of the doors will open into the corridor, and some into the rooms, the closed doors will look different due to the features of the door frame. If the doors are next to each other, and at the same time open one inward and the other outward, then the height of the upper trim will not match.

This is what the door looks like from the common corridor, which opens into the corridor, that is, towards us:
This is how the door that opens into the room looks like, that is, inside:
It is necessary to ensure that the canvas does not cover the switch when torn off. It is highly desirable that the doors do not intersect with their trajectories. The bathroom must be provided with a 180-degree opening for quick ventilation after taking water procedures.

Make sure that a door opened 90 degrees does not block the opening of an adjacent door.

In order not to waste time coordinating the opening of doors with the masters during installation, make a diagram on a piece of paper in advance.

How high from the floor should the door be?

Standard height - 1 cm from the finished floor. As for the doors of the bathrooms, it is not recommended to do less than 1 cm so as not to disturb the air flow. If you have plastic windows do not forget to make supply valves for air from the street so as not to increase the humidity in the apartment too much when the windows are closed.

Installation of interior doors during the repair of an apartment and the sequence of stages of work.

In order to protect the wooden parts of the doors from warping due to high humidity during repairs, it is necessary to do the installation after ALL finishing work, including in neighboring rooms.

Early installed doors may be accidentally damaged by tools during the repair process. Tile or wallpaper glue, especially plaster, dry for quite a long time, releasing moisture into the room. Humidity levels above 70% for several days increase the risk that doors will pick up moisture from the air, swell, and stop closing properly.

However, if you like to wash your bathtub or shower often, humidity is not a threat, as the bathroom is quickly ventilated.

Installation of interior doors should be done if you already have a finished floor!

Without doors, it is much easier to lay floor coverings, and then it is easier to install them, with a clear adjoining of the trim to the floor.

If you first install the box directly on the screed (main floor), then it is impossible to bring the flooring under the box, since it is already on the floor. In addition, it is difficult for the master to correctly calculate the lower clearance of the door from the subfloor, taking into account the future coating, especially if the floor has not been leveled.

If you did everything right and did the installation after laying the finished floor, it will not be difficult to replace the floor in the future - you just need to pull out the laminate or parquet from under the door pillars and slip a new coating. In this case, the racks will not fall, but will remain hanging.

What if the doorway is much higher (wider) than the box?

A common mistake of repair crews is too high openings, because the maximum height should not be higher than 208~209 cm, and 206 cm is better. from the floor covering.

Sometimes in new buildings standard opening can be 217-220cm high. This is due to the fact that many customers make underfloor heating and the height after their installation becomes standard. If no one paid attention to this during the repair, and a situation arose when the upper casing did not close the opening.

Solution: if your opening is higher than necessary, and there is no possibility to reduce the opening, glue the wallpaper lower before installing the doors, or order high capitals instead of the upper casing, but they are usually mounted from the side of the corridor. A more thorough way is to lower the height of the opening with drywall and wooden blocks and then glue the wallpaper.

Another option: if the platbands are flat, cut off at the joints at 90 degrees, and the upper platband is cut out of the wider extensions. Some customers get out of the situation this way. The disadvantage is that sometimes the additional strips are thicker than the casing, and that if you do this for all the doors in the apartment, it will look a little wild)).

If the opening is at least 2-3 cm wider than necessary from the sides, the foam joint will not have sufficient strength, and this is important, since the mounting foam helps maintain even gaps and ensures the overall resistance of the door to loads.

Solution: narrow the doorway with a wooden beam with a section of 3x5, 5x5 or at the repair stage using foam blocks and tile adhesive.

How to straighten a crooked doorway?

First you need to check the walls to the right and left of the opening for humps / depressions by attaching a long rule, an extension or a flat board to the wall. Especially often humps are found closer to the floor. Even one small hump will interfere with the tight fit of the casing to the wall.

To solve this problem, there is only one option: to plaster and level the walls. If you do not want or cannot level the walls in the entire apartment or wall, then do it only around the openings (about 50 cm wide) and paste the wallpaper.

Then you need to check the verticality of the walls using a laser or bubble level. The ends of the openings must be parallel, the walls must be even and strictly vertical. If the opening is curved, the walls are sloping, there are humps or depressions, act according to circumstances.

If you understand that the opening is a curve, and moves away from the vertical by more than 1 cm - you can level the walls with plaster according to the lighthouses, putting them on a vertical level and re-paste the wallpaper. As you already understood, this is the best and most difficult solution!

How to install a door in a curved opening?

But what if there is no way to level the wall? Let's say the wall in which the door is supposed to be installed is littered from the vertical by more than 1 cm per two meters of the height of the opening. Then you have three options:

• Install the door frame along the plane of the wall, the architraves will fit snugly against the wall, but the door will also be tilted and, probably, will close on its own, slam, etc.
• Install the box vertically in level, while the platbands fit in the upper part and move away from the wall by the amount of wall deviation from the vertical in the lower part (or vice versa), worsening the aesthetics.
• Buy a door with telescopic architraves and install it straight, deepening a little into the wall and pulling out, where necessary, the architraves from the grooves. it good decision problems, unless it is required to open the door 180 degrees, since opening the door leaf more than 100 degrees will pull out the hinges.

The choice is yours, in all cases there are minuses and there are pluses, because this is a compromise.

What if the door is close to the wall?

In such an opening, one wall is perpendicular to the other wall, and it is necessary to reduce the width of the architraves, and attach them close to the wall on both sides. But reducing the platbands in width, we still spoil the appearance of the door, see photo: However, there are several other options for solving this problem:

1. If the repair has already been made and wallpaper is glued to the walls, you can screw it to such a wall wooden beam section 3x6, 3x4 or 4x4 (no more). It becomes possible to install a whole platband close to the wall.
2. Increase the doorway at least 5 cm from the wall and cut off the same distance from the opposite wall of the opening at the repair stage. The platband will be located at a small distance from the wall, which looks much more beautiful.
3. Increase the doorway at the repair stage by 5 cm on both sides and order doors 10 cm less wide, for example 70 cm. instead of 80cm..

Setting the interior threshold

The door leaf is located in the opening closer to that part of the wall where the door will open, so the threshold covering the floor joint with the door closed should be located under the door leaf and then it will not be visible when the door is closed, see photo:

A common mistake of repair teams is the wrong location of the sills! To avoid such a mistake, draw a scheme for opening all doors in advance and give it to the foreman before laying the finishing floors.

Installation of interior doors in the bathroom

For living rooms and kitchens, it is recommended to order doors 2 meters high. For bathrooms in new homes, a canvas 1 m high is often required. 90cm due to the presence of waterproofing and special high thresholds. If you missed this moment and did not order doors with a height of 190 cm, then you need to expand the opening in height or, alternatively, you can shorten the door.

If you increase the opening in height, then the upper mark of the doors to the bathroom and interior doors will be at different levels. If the door is cut from below, then the panel pattern is lowered. Therefore, sometimes it is better to order smooth doors for bathrooms.

A common mistake is the threshold to the bathroom from a wooden door frame, as the aesthetics and ventilation of a wet room are violated, and in the future, mold may appear.

Preparation of openings for interior doors

Mounting foam will not be able to stick if there is a lot of dust on the ends of the doorway. It is necessary to remove dust or prime the ends of the walls of the opening if they are covered with gypsum putty or if the walls are made of gypsum / aerated concrete blocks.

If there are open round cavities and voids at the end of the opening, they can be repaired with plaster, leaving marks with a pencil so that the master does not drive fasteners into them. Holes for door frame fasteners are drilled between these cavities into lintels.

If the walls of the opening are made of drywall, then in a metal profile at the vertical ends of the opening necessarily must be dry wooden block. It is needed for reliable fastening of doors to self-tapping screws through the hinges and the counterpart, and it also stiffens the walls in the area of ​​​​the opening. Doors installed in openings without reinforcement are doomed to short-term operation and quickly sag.

If inside metal profile a bar is laid and the ends are not sewn up with anything, then this is not correct. Foam does not adhere well to galvanized metal. Over time, flaking is possible. To avoid this, GKL or GVL strips or plywood are screwed to the ends. Foam adhesion to these materials is excellent.

It is not allowed to leave voids between the sheets of drywall in the upper part of the opening. The fact is that the upper box is often strongly bent or bent when wedging, and to straighten it, for example, with the help of foam, a filled end of the wall is required.

Preparation of opening for sliding doors

For those who want to install sliding sliding doors opening height for standard door should be approximately 202 cm. and the width of the opening should be equal to the width of the door leaf or a couple of centimeters wider. In the process of finishing the opening with extensions and platbands under the portal, its dimensions should become smaller than the door leaf.

At a height of 207 cm. up to 212cm. there should be no voids from the floor in the opening, since a wooden bar with a section of 5x5 cm and a length of about 190 cm will be horizontally fixed here, to which an aluminum top rail with rollers will be attached.

Finishing the doorway (portal) in the apartment

If you do not want to install an interior door, you can install a portal instead. This solution increases the space in small apartment, so this is a win-win option for visually combining adjacent rooms: a hall and a living room, a corridor and a dining room, a living room and a small kitchen. A doorway without the usual door surprisingly transforms the room:

Preparing the floor before installing doors

A common mistake of repair teams when laying floor coverings is when the gap between the floor covering and the wall in the area of ​​the platbands exceeds the thickness of the platband. And you just need to remember to make it no more than 3 mm. in the area of ​​platbands.

A recess (strobe) can be made in the wall near the floor to compensate for possible expansions of the floor covering.

Storing doors after purchase

To prevent deformation under the influence of gravity, the canvas, boxed timber and trim must be stored on flat surface lying. Doors can be placed on their side against the wall.

Doors, architraves and boxes can change their dimensions after changes in humidity. Due to the set of humidity after the cold in the warmth, before installation, it is necessary to store the door and the moldings indoors for several days. Do not remove the packaging from the doors in advance until the temperatures have completely equalized.

Which loops to choose?

• If the canvas weighs up to 20 kg., Then it is optimal to buy 2 loops of 10 cm high.
• If the canvas weighs from 20 to 30 kg., Then you need to buy 2 loops of 12-12.5 cm. height
• If the canvas weighs more than 30 kg, then you need to buy 3 loops of 10 cm. height

The hinges are hung at a distance of 20 cm from the top and bottom of the door leaf. The thickness of the metal and the absence of backlash are very important. If the thickness of the hinge metal is 3 mm, then these are good hinges, a thickness of 2-2.5 mm is much more common. It is very good if the hinges are made of brass, steel. Most common door hinges there are several types:

• universal hinges- these are traditional, mortise loops familiar to all of us. If the choice of hinges is not a fundamental point, buy universal hinges. They can open both to the right and to the left. In addition, universal hinges have a longer service life.

• - not mortise, overhead loops. Easy and simple to install. They got their name for a special unusual design - both of its elements in the open state resemble butterfly wings. In the process of closing the door leaf, one part of the hinge easily enters the other, forming a single whole. Usually such hinges are placed on lightweight doors.

• - mortise hinges proven by time, the door with such hinges is simply removed if it opens 180 degrees. There are right and left depending on the opening of the door

How to choose locks and latches?

Locks and latches are best chosen based on the quietest operation of the mechanisms when opening and closing and their reliability. Magnetic locks are quiet, but not all, they need to be bought more expensive and preferably Italian, there are very high quality options. Do not save on them, so as not to suffer later.

Cheap latches with plastic tabs are not always of high quality, here you must first ask around with knowledgeable people (not sellers), and not buy too suspicious options. It will work quietly for six months, and then it will suddenly start to rattle. Sometimes such cheap magnetic locks and latches do not work immediately after installation. Door installers are well aware of these models.

You can buy classic latches / locks. It is best to choose them with plastic reeds, as they are the quietest in operation and do not clang like metal ones.

Sometimes it happens that the new latch works hard. In this case, put a couple of drops of silicone grease on the lock tongue.

Door handle height from floor

For Europe - 95 cm. Many symmetrical doors are now being produced, in which the handle according to the design of the door should be located strictly in the middle of the leaf. Therefore, the standard handle height for Russia is 1 meter.

Almost all models door handles too long self-tapping screws are included in the kit, which, when screwed into the door, can jam the lock or lead to its unstable operation. Door installers almost always screw on the handles with their self-tapping screws.

How to choose the right master for installing an interior door and check the quality of his work?

How to do right choice so as not to be left with hopelessly damaged doors? Will the work be done with high quality if the door installer is in doubt? Let's first find out how best to check the work of the wizard and analyze everything point by point.

How to check the work of the door installation wizard?

1. Look at the quality of tie-in locks, joints of the box and trim, tie-in loops. The cracks must be absent.
2. The tongue of the lock must fit into the striker without play.
3. The canvas should evenly fit along the entire length to the porch or rubber seal. When closing the door, the elastic should not be jammed with the canvas
4. The gaps between the door and the box must be even along the entire length.
5. The box is fixed in the opening not only with building foam, but also with fasteners
6. The canvas should not close or open on its own.
7. Hardware must rotate freely.
8. The price may rise only because of the increased volume of work that cannot be foreseen in advance.

How to choose a door installer? Basic ways.

1. The master must narrowly specialize in installing doors! It is necessary to watch or see the work live (with friends in the apartment). The craftsman or team must have at least 1 year experience and must be professional: a miter saw, a sawing table or a hand-held circular saw, milling cutters, a screwdriver, a drill, a perforator, a hairpin gun with a compressor, templates for fittings, etc. Read

To ensure that entrance and interior doors meet the requirements of safety, fire resistance and other necessary conditions comfortable living, their installation must be carried out in accordance with normative documents. Failure to comply with the installation rules can lead to additional material costs, inconvenience, danger, and even litigation. Therefore, before deviating from the standards for any reason, you should think about the possible consequences. The use of the recommendations of one or another collection of SNiP in the process of work depends on the material of manufacture, the location and purpose of the door structure.

What are the rules for?

The first SNiP appeared in the USSR in the 50s of the last century. Over the years, the standards have been improved and changed, but the fundamental principles used in the installation of doors have remained intact and, importantly, have stood the test of time. In the post-Soviet space, in most cases, they try to adhere to the requirements of SNiP, although today they are trying to replace them with SP and TU, which is not always true.

Along with entrance doors protect from cold, drafts and uninvited guests, they also, according to the norms of SNiP, serve as evacuation passages that ensure, in the event of an emergency, the unhindered movement of an increased flow of people, the transfer of the wounded and sick. Their function, in addition, is to provide free space for moving undisassembled furniture sets and large household appliances.

Door sizes are regulated state standards and correspond to the dimensions of the wall openings laid down by the designers in the construction documentation. Blocks, in this case, do not have to be ordered individually, which is convenient and rational. In exceptional cases, in order not to violate the architectural appearance of the building or at the special request of the owner of the mansion, it is allowed to install door blocks of non-standard sizes. But deviations are allowed only upwards, in order to avoid creating dangerous situations.

It should be noted that interior doors can be made a little narrower and lower than the outer ones.

It is also necessary to rely on the rules of SNiP due to the fact that they quite clearly indicate the long-developed and justified:

• methods of heat and sound insulation of entrance and interior doors;
• fire resistance and bullet resistance characteristics of special door blocks;
• air tightness standards for external enclosing structures;
• methods that guarantee maximum burglary resistance, etc.

Today it is necessary to experiment in rare cases, since the prescribed norms provide the possibility of high-quality installation of any door. The main thing that is required from private developers and reputable construction companies- this is strict adherence to SNiP, although some experts argue that their implementation is not at all necessary.

It should be understood that the current regulations are not aimed at complicating the process of installing doors, but at ensuring comfort and safety, the absence of noise and cold inside the house.

Some requirements of SNiP

It is worth noting that it will not be possible to tell about all the standards required for the installation of a particular door in one article. The problem is not even in the number of rules, but in the variety of materials, models and places for installing doors. But highlight General requirements relating to most entrance or interior building envelopes, it is still possible.

According to SNiP, the vertical deviation of the installed door frame can be no more than 3 mm. The side frame posts are attached to the slopes at least at two points on each side. Moreover, the distance between them in the same plane should be no more than 100 cm.

When installing new door adhere to a simple rule, which is that its sash in the open position should not overlap adjacent openings inside the apartment or on landing. In extreme cases, you will need to change the side of the opening of the canvas.

For door blocks, their correct geometry and the absence of visual defects are important. But no less significant point is the tightness of the closing of the doors of the entrance doors and the absence of gaps. The normative air permeability of the outer enclosing structures is 1.5 kg/(m2 per hour), therefore, special importance is given to the sealing contours installed in the porches between the box and the leaf. They also prevent the penetration of dust and odors from the street, as well as the appearance of drafts. But when installing internal doors, the gaps between the floor and the doors can be 5mm for rooms and 12mm for bathrooms.

The noise insulation standards for entrance doors allow the penetration of sound waves into the apartment at a level of no more than 30 dB, which is stipulated in the relevant SNiP. The calculation of the thermal insulation of the door is carried out according to several indicators, including data on the average winter temperature of a particular region.

Control of the installation of door blocks

At the preparatory stage, the presence of a passport for the product with a record of the guarantee is checked. The surface of the door is also inspected and, with the help of a tape measure, the compliance of the structure with the declared geometric dimensions is determined. Before starting the installation, check:

• dimensions of the wall opening;
• the accuracy of the applied markup;
• the correct location of embedded elements required for fasteners.

Installation of the door is accompanied by a technical inspection and drawing up of certificates of inspection hidden works. The following are subject to special scrutiny:

• tightness of insulation of gaps between wall slopes and the box;
• the quality of fastening of the door frame and sealing gaskets;

• compliance of the mounted block with the design position;
• correct installation of hardware and accessories;
• sash fit density.

Operational control, according to the standards, is performed by the master or foreman of the company responsible for installing the door, and acceptance is performed by the customer's representative or the owner of the premises.

GOST, SNiP: installation

After installation in the opening, door block becomes an integral part of the wall or partition. Therefore, the main regulatory document that installers should be guided by is the standard numbered 3.03.01 * 87, which combines the requirements for all types of load-bearing and enclosing structures.

Many mistakenly believe that there is a certain general document, such as: "GOST Installation of doors." In fact, a separate standard is provided for the manufacture of each type of block, but in the annexes to them, installation recommendations are given.

We will introduce you to them, and, with the help of the video in this article, we will give recommendations to those who plan to install doors with their own hands.

The production of external and internal doors made of wood (see), regulated different standards, and they do not have attachments with installation recommendations. But there is routing(STO) number 43.32.10, according to which the GOST doors are installed.

So:

• The outdoor units include blocks installed both at the entrance to the house and to the apartment - although the latter, by and large, are not located outside, but inside the building. For reasons of fire safety, both of them should have a hinged design.

GOST and SNP for installation

• It consists of a box fixed in the wall opening, and a canvas, which can be both deaf and glazed. By the way, you can see a great example of a glazed front door in the title photo. The canvases hung on the box form blocks, and are made of metal, plastic, or wood. Interior structures it also affects.
• Glass entry door. (cm. ). This is an option for public and office buildings, but in a residential area, solid products look especially good. Only they are not made according to GOST, but according to the specifications developed by the manufacturers - they also provide a method of installation for each product.

When the door is located at the entrance to the house - that is, it is in direct contact with the atmosphere, for its comfortable operation, measures should be taken to protect the structure from gusts of wind and water leakage. To do this, a visor is equipped at the entrance, or a vestibule is arranged, which will serve as a kind of buffer zone.

wooden blocks

Whatever you say, but the most popular - in any case, when it comes to residential premises, have been and remain. That is why our instruction begins with them.

As a rule, the input structure is deaf, and has a shield or panel construction. The price of the product may depend on this, but not the technology of its installation.

• For installation, it is very important that the width of the openings exceeds the size of the door frame. Both the uprights and the top rail should be installed with the 2 cm gap that the wood needs to expand. Previously, these gaps were filled with felt, but now they use more modern material with excellent thermal insulation properties- mounting foam.

Product Installation Diagram

• The frame of a wooden door is assembled from a beam with folds, fixed in the opening by means of expansion dowels or steel plates. If the building design provides for large and heavy canvases, anchors can be laid in the wall masonry for fastening the elements of the door frame.
• The absence or presence of a threshold is one of the design features of the doors, if it is, then two embedded elements are installed on the floor for its installation. To fix the box in the opening, the width of which exceeds 1.25 m, it is also necessary to fasten the horizontal beam to the lintel with screws.
• The shoals are attached to the embedded beam with dowels, always using thin wooden spacers. In those places where self-tapping screws or nails are used as fasteners, their heads should be recessed into specially made recesses, which, upon completion of work, are puttied or covered with plastic covers.

Installation sequence

In principle, whether it be entrance doors to an apartment, or in offices - GOST, or rather STO (technological map), provide for a similar procedure for installing them.

And the order is:

• Cleaning the opening surface
• Installation of box elements
• Threshold placement and fixing
• Hinge attachment
• Hanging and adjusting the canvas
• lock inset
• Installation of extensions (if necessary)
• Installation of platbands
• Decoration of attachment points

Let's dwell on the stages of the work in a little more detail. Note that the moisture content of the wood from which any joinery is made should not exceed 12%.

If you purchased products without a front finish - the so-called budget option, then with a high degree of probability this percentage will be exceeded. Therefore, before installation, the product needs to lie down for a day or two in a warm room to adapt and dry.

Installation of SNiP

So:

• Basically, during construction apartment buildings, which are put into operation with a rough finish, only such doors are installed. In this case, the first thing to do is to determine with the help of a measuring tool if there are any deviations between the actual and design dimensions of the openings. Where they are, appropriate marks are made on the walls or partitions.
• Sometimes manufacturers apply an antiseptic paste to the outer edges of wooden boxes. If there is no such coating on the product, it must be applied independently, using mastic or strips of roofing material. In general, according to the norms, wood should never come into direct contact with other structural materials: metal, concrete, plaster, brick.
• Wooden or plastic wedges, with which the box is fixed in the opening (8 pieces per block), as well as fasteners, must be prepared in advance. When the unit comes in full factory readiness, everything you need for installation is included in the kit.

• The block is installed in the opening and temporarily fixed with wedges, after which the vertical plane of the box is checked using a plumb line. Identified deviations are eliminated by padding wedges. The control of the horizontal plane is carried out by the level.

What you need to pay attention to when measuring before installing the door:

1. Measure the height of the opening in three places: on the right - in the middle - on the left.

2. Measure the width of the doorway in three places: at the bottom - at half the height - at the top.

3. Material and design of walls, floors, on all sides of the doorway.

4. When measuring a doorway, pay attention to the verticality, straightness and squareness of the sides of the opening.

5. The thickness of the walls of the opening, if it is necessary to make a frame (measure the minimum and maximum thickness of the wall - pay special attention to the corners of the opening).

6. The presence of embedded bars, thick metal channels, etc.

7. The passage of wires and cables in the walls, floor, the proximity of electrical outlets and switches in the movement area of ​​the doors.

Installation of interroom sliding door: doorway requirements

1. Before starting the installation of an interior door, make sure that the opening is formed (i.e., has clear dimensions: height, width and thickness), decorated in pure form(plasterboard is trimmed, no protruding bricks, foam concrete, tongue-and-groove slabs or plastered).

https://pandia.ru/text/78/058/images/image002_170.jpg" width="197" height="201 src=">

3. In order for the door to hang evenly and not cling to the floor, it is necessary to make sure before installing it that the sides of the opening must be parallel and vertical (checked by a plumb line, the deviation is not more than 5 mm per 2 m).

https://pandia.ru/text/78/058/images/image004_84.jpg" width="210" height="176 src=">

5. Exactly the interior sliding door can be hung only if the opening has no narrowing, i.e. its dimensions on both sides of the wall can differ by no more than 5 mm per side (checked with a tape measure).

https://pandia.ru/text/78/058/images/image006_58.jpg" width="134" height="184 src=">

7. The width of the doorway prepared for the installation of the sliding leaf should be 40 mm less than the width of the interior door, the height of the doorway should be 20 mm less than the height of the door.

8. The plinth in the area adjacent to the frame of the opening to be installed must be removed by the Customer by the time of installation. The plinth is installed after the doors are installed. The thickness of the skirting board is stipulated in the Agreement, by default the thickness of the skirting board is no more than 20 mm across the floor.

9. Installation of doors is the final stage of the repair and it is carried out after all wet work and flooring have been completed.

If these requirements for the opening are not observed, both the deterioration in the quality of the installation of the interior door, and the complete impossibility of its implementation are possible!

Sliding door installation technology
when using the mechanism "B-104"

1. Before mounting the sliding door, it is necessary to make a mark upwards at a distance of 60 mm from the edge of the doorway - at this height the lower edge of the spacer will be located. According to the mark, draw a horizontal line above the doorway and in the direction of the door extension by the length of the aluminum guide. The length of the aluminum guide on the canvas to be installed must correspond to the data in Table 1. A 50 mm wide coniferous timber is used as a spacer, the length of the spacer is equal to the length of the aluminum guide (see Table 1).

Table 1.

A - the width of the door leaf
B - distance from the middle of the holder to the end of the guide
C - distance between holders
D - distance from the middle of the grip to the edge of the door leaf
L - guide length
X - number of holders

The thickness of the distance lining should provide a gap of 5-6 mm between the extreme point of the door leaf plane and the wall (platband or plinth if installed).
When installing the interior door leaf without a protruding "baguette" into the opening without installing a platband and plinth, the thickness of the distance lining should be 8 mm;
when installing a door leaf in a “framing” version in an opening without installing a trim and plinth, the thickness of the distance lining is 14 mm;
when installing a door leaf in a “framing” version or without, with the installation of a standard casing and a plinth 20 mm thick, the thickness of the distance lining is 28 mm.
The thickness of the distance lining is specified depending on the curvature of the wall.

3. Using self-tapping screws with a thickness of 4-5 mm and a length of 50-60 mm, according to the markup, attach a remote lining to the wall so that its lower edge runs exactly along the marking line, and the middle of the lining length is above the angle of the opening from the rollback side of the door. Please note that when assembling an interior door (this is especially important for sliding wooden doors!): even with an uneven wall, the distance lining should remain straight.

4. Drill two ø 4 mm holes in the corner holders (item 1, figure 1) for fastening the aluminum rail and countersink them with a ø 10 mm drill.


Picture 1.

5. Install the holders pos. 1 into the corresponding groove of the aluminum guide at a distance according to table 1.

6. At this stage of the door installation, use self-tapping screws 3.5x20 mm to attach the guide with holders to the spacer. The upper edge of the holders is attached flush with the upper edge of the spacer (Figure 2).

Figure 2.

7. Attach bars 20x40x90 mm to the spacer using self-tapping screws 4-5 mm thick and 50-60 mm long. The bars are fastened in the gaps between the holders, and the two extreme ones are on the same level with the ends of the aluminum guide.

8. To the upper end of the door leaf of the interior door, using the self-tapping screws included in the delivery set, attach the grippers (pos. 2, figure 1) at a distance D from the edge of the leaf (see table 1). Semi-circular cutouts in the grips should face the wall.

9. At the lower end of the door leaf, make a longitudinal groove (see Figure 2). The groove is made using a manual milling machine; the smooth running of the door depends on the accuracy of the milling of the groove.

10. Assemble the carriages of the mechanism according to figure 1 and insert them into the aluminum guide.

11. Insert stops with rubber shock absorbers along the edges of the guide.

12. Hang the interior door: put it against the wall under the rail, roll the right carriage to the right grip and, lifting the door, put the grip cutout on the adjusting screw. The nuts should be on top of the grip and the head of the screw should be on the bottom. Repeat this with the other carriage. While holding the bolt, tighten the nuts by hand.

13. The sliding mechanism of wooden doors requires a limit pin to be installed in the milled groove at the bottom of the door. The stop pin should be centered in the groove, ensuring that the door slides smoothly and there is an even gap between the door and the wall. Mark the transverse location of the stop pin on the floor. Move the door leaf in the direction of opening so that the edge of the door is in line with the edge of the opening; the limit pin must be inside the milled groove at a distance of 5 mm from the edge of the blade. Mark the longitudinal position of the stop pin on the floor. Remove the door from the grips and fix the limit pin using self-tapping screws using the marks on the floor.

14. Inserting handles into wooden door leafs. For installation on a sliding interior door, mortise handles "compartment" are used. The center of the handle should be 900 mm from the bottom of the blade, in the middle of the blade leg. Insertion of handles is carried out according to the instructions for installing fittings.

15. Wooden door height adjustment. Put the door with a groove on the limit pin and hang it according to paragraph 11. Turning the adjusting screw (pos. 7 figure 1), achieve a uniform gap between the door and the floor of 4-6 mm; holding the adjusting screw pos. 7, using a wrench, tighten the nut pos. 3 and locknut pos. 4 (Figure 1).

16. Horizontal adjustment of a suspended wooden door. Move the door leaf of the interior door in the direction of closing so that the door overlaps the opening with a margin of 20 mm on each side. Fix the limiter with the rubber shock absorber of the end position of the door in the closed position using the screw pos. 5 Figure 1. Move the door leaf towards opening so that the edge of the door is in line with the edge of the opening. Fix the limiter with rubber shock absorber of the end position of the door in the open position using the screw pos. 5 figure 1. Using the adjusting screws pos. 6 figure 1 on the limiters with rubber shock absorbers, adjust the fixing force of the door leaf in the extreme positions.

17. Installation of a decorative lining. On interior doors, a standard 90 mm wide extension is used as a decorative lining (Figure 2). The overlay is attached with the help of “finishing” nails to previously installed bars 20x40x90 mm (paragraph 6 of this instruction). The faceplate should be 14mm longer than the aluminum track. ends sliding mechanism they are closed with pieces from the extension, which are attached to the “finishing” nails at the same level with the front decorative overlay.

18. At the request of the customer, the doorway can be decorated according to standard technology with the help of platbands and extensions.