How to install a bath with your own hands: the sequence and subtleties of the work. Installing a bathtub according to all the rules of high-quality installation

The main detail of any bathroom is a quality font. Installing a bathtub will require certain knowledge. The installation of the bathroom must be chosen taking into account the types of construction. The installation of the bath will also depend on the type of product. What nuances need to be taken into account, methods of work, installation methods, the basic rules for carrying out work, we will consider in more detail.

Requirements for the premises

You can install the bath yourself. The bath, the installation of which will be performed, must be made based on the type of substance from which it is made, the place where it is to be installed. Let's take a closer look at how to install a bath with your own hands.

The installation site must meet certain requirements that must be taken into account. The surface where the product is to be installed must meet the following requirements:

The surface must be cleaned of the remnants of the old coating;
Perform alignment;
Provide waterproofing High Quality. It should form a "font". This method will allow you to secure the perimeter if a leak occurs;
Prepare a layer of screed. The level of the floor in the bathroom should be at least five centimeters lower than the rest of the surface in the house;
Depending on the type of font, installation method, take care of the decorative coating. If the bath is made of cast iron, it must be of high strength. If the installation is planned using a blank screen, you can limit yourself to painting, not laying tiles;
Depending on the type of font, you need to prepare the surface of the walls. Cast iron, acrylic products are installed after the final work. Steel before applying a decorative layer.

In some cases, tiling is performed after the installation of the font. It is at the installation site of the bath that the masonry should be as reliable as possible. A significant mass of the structure, together with water, a person, must stand securely, not damage the surface of the material.

Installing a tub in a bathroom can be done in a number of ways. The fastening of the bath to the floor, walls, must be reliable enough to ensure a stable position of the structure. The process involves not only the installation of the product itself, but also the ability to connect a communications system.

The installation option is chosen based on the model of the product, dimensions, weight, substance from which it is made. The most popular are:

With the help of legs. Included in the kit, can be purchased separately. Depending on the type of product, they may have different installation options. They are fastened with wedges, bolts, glued to the base;
With a podium. Some type of structures can be mounted on a podium. It is made of brick, wood, gas blocks. The method is more often used for steel, acrylic structures;
With the help of a framework. This type of installation allows you to fix the product securely, distribute the mass evenly, protect it from bends, irregularities, and deformation.

Only competently performed installation work will achieve stability, safety, and long service life. The method can reduce the noise level, keep warm as long as possible.

Particularly heavy, unstable models are desirable to be fixed with the help of frames, podiums. They will additionally provide a rigid fastening of the device, stability, protect against surface distortion, enamel damage. Wooden frames are used metal structures. Podiums are most often made of brick, gas blocks. They are decorated with tiles, tiles, mosaics. It is important to leave free access to communications.

Lightweight acrylic products without fail must be installed with a frame. The legs in them perform a purely decorative function. For them, you can also make a screen from giplokaton.

Steel structures are often additionally fixed around the perimeter, between walls, using metal corners. Due to their light weight, they are quite unstable, they can turn over when filled. If the device is designed for use by people with a significant mass, choose the type of installation on brick supports, using a brick transfer in front.

Bath installation sequence

Regardless of how the bathtub is installed, it is important to avoid distortions and tilts. Whichever method is applied, the process must be carried out in a certain sequence, in compliance with the requirements, conditions, and safety precautions.

First of all, the device is brought in, the legs are installed, if they will hold the mass, they are connected to the water supply, drain. Some designs may be light, others may be heavy. It will be impossible to install such products alone.

There is a sequence of work:

Taking measurements;
Bringing the product into the room;
Siphon installation. It must be performed in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions;
Fastening the legs, if it is on them that the installation is made;
Height and level adjustment. Cast iron products are made taking into account the angle for draining. In steel, it is provided at the installation stage;
Installation of the device at the place of use. It is advisable to do this as close to the walls as possible. In some cases, this is done with the help of strobes in the walls, corners;
Check if the level is correct. There is a type of legs that can be raised and lowered. Others need to be adjusted with additional linings. It can be a tile, metal plates.

The optimal height of the bath from the floor is sixty-five centimeters. It is necessary to leave free space for the siphon at the level of fifteen centimeters.

Checking and sealing the joint between the bathroom and the wall

Before completing the installation, it is necessary to pay attention to the correct operation of the device. Put paper on the floor. The device is filled with water. Check the quality of the overflow. Then as the water leaves. If the paper remains dry, the outer side of the siphon also, then the quality of the joints is normal.

The siphon is best fixed by pre-treating all joints with sealant. Corrugation is not recommended.

The second indicator is the reliability of the installation. The product should not hang out, it is fixed rigidly.

With an ideal installation, there should be no gaps between the bathroom and the wall. If they nevertheless formed, care must be taken to eliminate them. This problem is not only an aesthetic one. If water gets on the floor, dampness, mold, fungus will form, and a short circuit is possible.

There are quite a few ways to mask such defects. They are chosen based on the size of the gap, the material with which the walls are finished, from which the bath is made.

Small defects can be repaired with tile grout, sealant, cement. Larger ones are masked with polyurethane foam. There are special tapes, plastic borders, tiles, rubber tapes that help to cope with the aesthetic part of the problem. Even if the gap is sealed with decor, it must be brought into a decent aesthetic appearance.

Each of these materials has its own advantages and disadvantages. Some won't last long at all. Others are quite expensive, they give such a strong grip that dismantling the product, if necessary, will cause certain difficulties.

Reliability, correct installation of the bathroom is of particular importance. Breaking technology will lead to danger during hygiene procedures, rapid wear of the product, surface damage. For each type of product, the installation conditions are strictly individual.

Installation of plumbing equipment requires not only relevant experience, but also high costs. Installing a bathtub in the bathroom with your own hands is no exception. Despite external complexity, this type of work can be performed without the involvement of specialists.

Installing an acrylic bath

Acrylic is the most popular material for making bathtubs. In addition to an acrylic bathtub, homeowners often place a plastic liner over a cast iron or steel bathtub. This allows you to update the plumbing in the room without much effort and money.

Installation of an acrylic bathtub (brand Kaldewei, Triton and others) can be performed in several ways:

The nuances of installing a corner acrylic bath

Corner bathtubs are a versatile option that is suitable for both large bathrooms and small bathrooms. They are symmetrical and asymmetrical, the dimensions of the branches are standardized.

If you choose the right triangular bath, then in a small room you can fit not only a washbasin with a cabinet, but also a washing machine or bidet. But there are some nuances that you need to know about before installing a corner bath (Ravak - Ravak, Laguna and others):

All corner baths are classified according to the type of location into right-handed and left-handed. This is very important for the proper connection of sewerage and water pipes;
Before starting installation work, the walls must be leveled. If this is not done, it will be extremely difficult to level the bath;
The bath of an angular design is established on legs. Supports are fixed along the entire perimeter, which will later be used to fasten the frame guides;
In the place where the bath is adjacent to the wall, it is imperative to install a flexible plinth. This will help avoid leaks.

Installation of a corner acrylic bath Part 1

and part 2

Installing an acrylic bath on a frame

A frame diagram is the easiest option for installing an acrylic bathtub. This method is ideal for built-in plumbing, fits perfectly into any interior and provides ergonomics.

Step-by-step instruction how to install an acrylic bathtub on a frame:

First of all, the surface of the walls is leveled. It is important not only to plaster the surface, but also to cover the walls with a finish - a primer and putty. Installation of tiles can be carried out immediately or after the completion of installation work;
Similar actions are carried out with the floor. The floor in the bathroom should be perfectly flat, without wide seams and bumps. This will greatly facilitate the installation of the frame by level;
To install the bath, you need to prepare building level(its length should not be less than the diagonal of the bathtub), a hammer with a rubber nozzle (for fixing the frame), a wrench and an adjustable wrench. Various gaskets and pipes may also be required to connect the sewerage system;
A flexible pipe is attached to the sewer outlet, the diameter of which must correspond to the outlet of the bath. A siphon is attached to it. The joints are treated with silicone sealant. After that, you need to wait at least 4 hours for the silicone to harden;
Next, the frame is mounted. The first guide is installed along the wall - it will be the main one, so it is important to align it strictly according to the level. Side rails extend from this guide, to which vertical racks are attached from the floor. They can be connected by welding or bolting (the first seems more reliable, but the second can be disassembled in which case);
When all the guides are interconnected, the level of the corners is measured. There is one strict rule: when installing bathrooms and uneven frames, the lowered corner rises, and the raised corner does not fall. All corners are fixed with metal corner strips to give rigidity;
If all corners are at the same level, then a bath is installed in the frame. An overflow from the siphon is connected to the side hole, and the outlet from the sewer is connected to the central one. The water socket (water supply pipe) is located above the bath, so it will be possible to work with it after the installation work is completed.
To prevent water from the bath from spilling onto the floor, you need to close the gaps between the wall and the side rail with a curb. It is also called plinth;
The frame is closed with a screen. Additionally, it can be insulated - so that the bath “holds” the heat of the water longer. To cover the screen, you can use tiles, panels or even fake diamond. It is best to work with durable, water-resistant materials.

After the installation work is completed, the mixer is installed. To connect it, open a water outlet, connect a tap to it, if necessary, also connect a sink or shower hose.

How to install an acrylic bathtub with legs

Most well-known bathtub manufacturers supplement their products with special fasteners and installation parts. Supports are included with models manufactured by Jika (Jika), Roca (Roca), Riho and others.

How to properly install an acrylic bathtub on legs yourself:

On the bottom of the acrylic baths, which are mounted on legs, there are characteristic protrusions for connections. To attach the legs, the bathtub must be turned over and the supports included in the kit must be attached to these protrusions;
To give rigidity to the structure, the legs are also interconnected. To do this, they are tightened with nuts and fixed with studs;
After that, the drain is processed (a siphon is connected to it). The water outlet does not need to be touched until the bathtub is installed on the floor. When all preparatory work finished, you can start installing the bath;
The legs are installed on the floor, using the level, the evenness of the installation is checked. If any corner is too high, then, as mentioned above, all other corners are raised. This is done very simply: the bath is turned over and some of the legs are adjusted to the desired level;
For strength, we recommend slightly knocking out the plastic supports with a hammer with a rubber working surface.

With acrylic and glass baths, you need to work very carefully. Plastic is subject to deformation under impact loads. When the installation process is over, proceed to install the mixer, washing machine and other consumers.

Video: full video bath installation instructions

Installing an acrylic bath on bricks

We note right away that this method is rarely used to install plastic bathtubs. For acrylic plumbing, not only perfect evenness is important, but also complete absence shock or other loads that contribute to deformation. Brick supports are quite difficult to install with your own hands so that they evenly distribute pressure over the entire plane of the bath.

Step-by-step instructions on how to install an acrylic bath on bricks:

The height to which the bath will be installed is determined based on the dimensions of the bathroom and the dimensions of the liner. Optimal height considered - 3 bricks;
For laying, a classic chess pattern is used. For its implementation, the floor is leveled, the first row of bricks (2 pieces) with cement mortar is laid on it. On top of them, 2 more pieces are installed, but in the opposite direction. So up to the height you need;
If for the installation of a sliding frame system it is possible not to make accurate measurements of the bath, then they are required for bricks. In addition, you need to calculate the location of the supports in such a way that there are no sagging points. For example, 4 brick supports at each corner and two in the central part;
While the solution hardens, you can start connecting the sewerage system. If this is not a hydromassage model, then all work is performed according to the standard scheme. From the sewer there is an adapter and a siphon with overflow, and pipes for installing a mixer depart from the water outlet.

After laying the bricks, you need to wait for the mortar to harden and only after that install an acrylic bath on them. Of course, appearance brick supports leaves much to be desired, so the most different variants. This is a tile decorative panels, screen (as for the frame), etc.

Installing a plastic bath

Installing a plastic bath with your own hands is no more difficult than acrylic. At what, all options that are described above are suitable:

on the frame;
On legs;
On bricks or other improvised props.

During installation plastic bath you need to be especially careful and careful. Any incorrect movement or miscalculation in the places where the supports are installed can cause cracks to form.

Rules on how to install a plastic bathtub Standard:

It is important to evenly distribute the load. This means that the supports, legs or frame must be placed symmetrically over the entire plane of the bath. This will avoid deformations;
To strengthen the frame and legs, special corners are often used. Corner - a rigid metal part that ensures the strength of the connection between the support and the surface of the bath. Of course, you can do without it, but then during operation the structure may begin to loosen;
The pipes are connected before the installation of the bath. In other words, first the supports or the frame are installed, then the siphon and other outlets are attached (the shower cabin is connected, etc.), and then the bathtub is mounted;
The last step is to install the hood, mirrors and curtains. For the latter, you will need to additionally fix the cornice to the walls or ceiling.

Installing a cast iron bath

A cast-iron bath is considered the most durable and reliable, but it is categorically not suitable for installation in a small bathroom (where there is also a toilet in the bathroom). It is best to install it in a private house, because. average weight this design reaches up to 500 kg.

Step by step instructions how to install cast iron bath:

Steel bath installation

Installing a metal steel bath is much easier than a cast iron one. It is not as heavy and, depending on the size, is perfect for installation in a small bathroom. As with the installation of a cast-iron structure, the old bathroom is first dismantled, after the walls and flooring are cleaned.

Next, the bath is arranged on legs or a frame is arranged for it. When the preparatory work is completed, the connections to the sewerage and water pipes are provided. After that, the bath is installed in its place and connected to central system water supply.

Installing a bathtub in a tiled bathroom

All the methods described above imply that the tiling will be done after the installation of the bathrooms. But, what if an iron bath or a shower cabin needs to be installed in a tiled room?

Installing a bathtub on legs

Installation of a cast-iron, glass or steel bathtub on legs is carried out according to a scheme similar to the installation of an acrylic structure. Of course, depending on the size or shape, the distance between the supports may vary, but in general the technology is preserved.

To learn more about the process, we suggest watching a video of installing a bathtub on legs:

Installing a corner bath

Installation of corner structures is the most difficult to implement independently. Consider how to install a Cersanit corner bath on legs with your own hands:

The old bath is dismantled, the place of its installation is carefully cleaned. It is important that the angle of the wall and floor is strictly 90 degrees;
Adjustable legs are installed on the lower part of the structure. To connect them, there are special fasteners on the inner bottom side of the bath;
The legs are fastened with bolts, and are pulled together with the help of studs and threaded connections. After they are set approximately according to the level;
After that, a sewer and water outlet is connected, a siphon and other parts of the plumbing system are installed;
The bath is turned over and its level is checked. Please note that the level measurement is made strictly diagonally.

Installing a bathtub with your own hands is a rather complicated matter. A bathtub is a bulky item that requires careful handling; chipping off the enamel is easy, but. Steel and plastic bathtubs must be turned very carefully: the coating may crack from deformation. It is impossible to warp a cast-iron bath, but it is so heavy and strong that it can break a wall or a door by itself. In addition, the installation of the bath has to be done in a cramped room. Therefore, the first condition for self installation baths are a strong skillful assistant. One or with a stupid weak helper can not cope.

The second point is the installation of bathroom plumbing fixtures. This will have to be done almost by touch. That is, you can not be white-handed. You must have developed a tactile sense; Simply put - your hands must be not only strong, but also skillful. And the third point is attentiveness and accuracy. An instrument accidentally dropped into the tub can cause irreparable damage. And if the bath is acrylic, then blind holes will have to be drilled in it. Here you need to be extremely careful: it is very easy to pierce acrylic with a drill.

Which bath to choose

If it is planned to replace the bath, and not transfer the existing one, then you need to immediately decide which one to take:

Steel ("tin") cheap and easy to work. A sturdy man with working plumbing skills can install one alone. But it is short-lived - it “plays” when water is filled / released, which does not benefit the enamel. A steel bathtub can be recommended if the bathroom is small and the bathtub can be installed close to three walls; in this case, the deformations from alternating loads are reduced by an order of magnitude.
Cast iron- eternal, with proper handling, but expensive. Working with her is very difficult: hard. And it's not just about weight: it's almost impossible to put a cast-iron bath on already without damaging it. The siphon has to be attached to the bathtub in advance, but, turning the bathtub, again, it is easy to damage it. In addition, if the bath is on decorative open legs, then leveling it is a chore, and adjustable legs break easily from lateral force, for example, if someone slips and flops in it. So a cast-iron bathtub with adjustable legs can only be recommended for installation between three walls.
Plastic (acrylic) bathtubs last up to 15-20 years. It is expensive, but cheaper than cast iron. You need to work with it together, but without strain, as with cast iron, and without any particular difficulties. Damaged coatings are easier to repair than enamel. It can be said that it is an ideal option, with the exception: it is unacceptable to get aggressive detergents, neither concentrated nor in aqueous solution. In fact, you can only swim in it.

About bath heat loss

At the current prices for hot water, washing in the bath is a luxury, and cheaper prices are not expected. In this regard, the heat loss of the bathroom becomes important. In ascending order, the baths are arranged as follows:

Acrylic- the most economical. It warms up instantly and cools down very slowly: plastic is a poor conductor of heat. If a temperature of 60 degrees is set on the boiler, then to fill an ordinary semi-recumbent acrylic bathtub with water at 40 degrees, its capacity of 50 liters is enough.
Steel- not at all economical, as it might seem. It warms up quickly, but also effectively gives off heat into space, in the form of infrared radiation. A boiler is needed for 80 liters, or on a 50-liter one, you need to set the upper temperature limit to 80 degrees. But at such a temperature, in just a month or two, an expensive magnesium protector in it will “burn out”.
Cast iron bath- a calorie eater. And she warms up for a long time, and gives off heat well: metal after all. A boiler is needed for at least 100 liters, and for the money - washing in a cast-iron bath will cost 1.5 times more than in steel, and 2.5 times more expensive than in acrylic.

Bathroom preparation

Walls

If the installation of a new bathtub is timed to coincide with the repair of the bathroom, then it is better to postpone the wall cladding "for later", after the installation of the bathtub. Why? Here, we put the bath close to the bare wall, made the waterproofing of the gaps (see below). We start tiling from the bottom, from the bath. The overhanging lower edge of the tile (it also needs to be waterproofed after laying the tile) forms a kind of teardrop, which greatly reduces the likelihood of rot and mold.

Note: in In this case, an incomplete row of tiles in height will be visible. For the sake of conservation decorative qualities lining it is better to put it in the middle of the height of the wall - it looks worse under the ceiling. If this strip along the wall is made of tiles of a different color, then it can turn out even more beautiful than expected.

If there is only a bath replacement, then a new one on legs, the adjusting screws of which are turned out 3/4 or 4/5, should be at least 2 cm higher than the old one. If the new one turns out to be lower, then it will be difficult to make the gap that has appeared aesthetically aesthetic: although facing tiles does not fade, dirt has eaten into its previously hidden part, which cannot be removed.

Floor

The floor under the bath must be flat and durable; especially - under the cast-iron, which weighs a lot even empty. In this case, you need to make sure that the tiles on the floor are laid on solid cement with extrusion, and not on the “comb”. Under the weight of the bathtub, tiles can crack from the slightest void underneath.

Note: in order not to re-lay the floor and not care about its strength at all, you can lay two larch boards (logs) on the floor (it is from it, only teak is suitable from other wood, but it is not widely available). The boards are laid along so that the legs of the bath fall on them. The tree must be, and then proliferated or impregnated with PVA putty through and through. A wooden pillow will not only distribute the load on the floor, but will also solve all problems with the height of the bath, see below. However, before waterproofing the gaps and / or facing the boards, you need to shrink: fill the bathtub with water to the top and hold it for at least two days, and preferably a week.

bathtub height

The installation height of the bathroom is important not only for its interface with the wall cladding and the convenience of plumbing work. A higher raised bath will allow you to install a siphon with a deeper knee. This is important primarily for hygiene purposes: the deeper the siphon, the less likely it is for any infection from the sewer to seep through it in the reverse order.

Then, the flow from the high bath will go more intense. How long it takes to empty is not so important. Another thing is important: an additional rise of the bath by only 4-5 cm with the right drain fittings almost completely eliminates the accumulation of hair on the drain grid and in the siphon. Anyone who has ever taken out this, to put it mildly, very, very unattractive lump, knows what this means.

Selection of drain fittings

Material

Bathtub drain fittings are mainly made from two types of plastic: PVC and polyisopropylene. The second can be recognized by greater hardness and smoothness. Propylene rebar is more expensive, but has important benefits before vinyl:

Polyisopropylene is several times stronger than PVC; accordingly, the probability of damage to the siphon during installation is less.
Polyisopropylene is durable and resistant to aggressive environments, it does not become brittle over time.
The microstructure of the surface of polyisopropylene is smoother than PVC, and is not tuberculate, but striated. Therefore, propylene plumbing is much less prone to clogging than PVC.
Due to the same smoothness, the hydraulic resistance propylene pipes one and a half times lower than PVC. That is, a propylene overflow hose with the same cross section will let more water pass through itself, and there is less risk of flooding neighbors.

typical bathroom drain assembly diagram

Drain

Do not take the "Chinese" drain, assembled on a bolt. The bolt will rust even if the mesh is stainless steel. Within a month, the rust will seize the bolt so that it will be impossible to disassemble the drain: in which case it will be necessary to break it down and install a new one. There is no point in changing the bolt to brass or bronze: the material will turn green and grab in the same way. And it’s also pointless to sharpen a stainless steel bolt to order: you don’t know the grade of steel from which the mesh is made. Therefore, a bolt from another stainless steel in water with a mesh forms a galvanic couple, electrocorrosion will immediately begin with the same setting.

Drain mesh

Also, do not take a drain with a grid in the form of a cross of two crossbars. Such a net is a very good hair catcher, and it is difficult and disgusting to tear them out of there. Grid of arranged in a circle round holes better. But the best (and most expensive) option is a mesh of oblique profiled slots. In a bath with such a drain, you can manually wash the carpet, calico, flannel, and the drain will not clog, and the mesh will remain clean.

cork chain

The usual cork chain is soon torn, and in any case covered with a coating of salts, which does not add to the attractiveness of the bath. There is drain devices with a remote controlled plug, but they are expensive and prone to breakage. Therefore, advice: immediately replace the chain with a thick, 0.8 - 1.5 mm, fishing line, better colored, it is clearly visible in the water.

overflow pipe

Do not take hard - this is a relic of the past. A flexible corrugated hose is more convenient to install, and its clearance with the same outer diameter is larger, which means there is less chance of overflow.

Bath installation

Tools and materials

To install the bath you will need some special tool:

Rule. This is a flat rigid bar the length of the diagonal of the bath. Needed to level the bathtub. Aligning diagonally even an amateur does in two steps, and aligning along the sides requires 4-6 iterations, and it often turns out that the drain cracked after that.
Fork wrench for tightening the release parts. You can’t grab it with adjustable pliers, and it’s extremely inconvenient with pliers, and you can damage it.

Small rubber mallet. It is needed to shrink the legs of the bath during its assembly. Tapping with a metal hammer due to resonance can cause microcracks in the enamel, and a wooden mallet will not give the necessary force and accuracy of impact.

Note: like a rubber hammer, you can adapt a chasing hammer by pulling a piece of durite hose over its spherical butt.

Of the materials needed silicone sealant(Sealants based on MS are expensive and have no significant advantages over silicone) and cotton (“rag”) electrical tape if the bath is acrylic. A drill stopper is made from electrical tape. PVC tape slips easily. But an absolutely reliable drilling depth limiter is a piece of the same durite hose, tightly stretched over the drill.

About leveling and pairing the outlet with the sewer

The basic principle of alignment is to raise the lowered corner, not to lower the raised one. Remember, the higher the bath, the cleaner the drain. But, if a rigid rubber cuff is used to interface the outlet pipe of the bathtub with the sewer, then it may simply not fit into place, or turn out if already installed, or the drain may break.

Therefore, the final pairing with the sewer must be done after alignment, and the cuff should be taken soft, from micropork or neoprene, so that the drain outlet can become tilted. Instead of a cuff, it is preferable to use raw rubber or soft rubber sealant - it looks like white plasticine. The connection on it is absolutely reliable; estimated service life - 100 years. In the USSR, it was known as "military sealant".

But the easiest option is to purchase drain fittings with a wider outlet pipe so that the gap can simply be filled with silicone. It is impossible to blow out with mounting foam: it expands greatly when it hardens; the influx from the inside can block the outlet, and everything will have to be redone.

Actually, diagonal alignment is done like this:

The rule is laid diagonally on the bathtub, a level is placed on it and horizontal is achieved by tightening the adjusting bolts of the legs.
Transfer the rule to another diagonal, repeat the procedure.
Check if the initial diagonal has gone astray. If the floor is level, this does not happen.

When leveling along the sides, the level is placed on the side of the bath and the legs of this side are adjusted. Then they move to the other side, but after leveling there, the horizontality of the original side goes astray, and you have to repeat the procedure several times, gradually approaching the overall horizontality.

Note: it is necessary to achieve exactly horizontality. The inclination of the bottom of the bath bowl to the drain is already provided.

Sewer preparation

The branch pipe of the sewer pipe and the pipe itself must be dry from the inside for reliable sealing. Firstly, for this, when installing a bath, in no case should there be a drain from the kitchen.

Secondly, sewer pipe and the pipe half a meter to the sides must be well dried from the inside. Plaque can not be cleaned off if it is small, but it must be dried thoroughly. This is done, as you probably already guessed, by the wife's hair dryer, which can not always be correctly understood.

Therefore, on the day of installing the bath, try to send your family somewhere. Except, perhaps, for an adult son - an assistant.

Scheme-example of installing a bath:

Installing an acrylic bath

To install an acrylic bath, you will first have to attach complete guides (lodgements) for legs to its bottom. They are installed across the bottom on special complete self-tapping screws.

The marking of the fastenings of the lodgements for self-tapping screws is done strictly according to the instructions. If nothing is said about this, then the positions of the lodgements are standard: front 7 inches (17.78 or just 17-18 cm) from the inner edge of the drain hole along the length; back - at the place where the bowl passes into the back rounding.

The lodgements are applied perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bath, the drilling points are marked with a pencil through the mounting holes in them, and they are drilled with a drill with a limiter. Drilling depth - 3/4 of the length of the body of the self-tapping screw.

Then the previously inverted bathtub is placed on its side and drain fittings are mounted. There are nuances here:

All gaskets are lubricated with silicone before installation.
The drain gasket is installed OUTSIDE.
The gasket between the overflow and the overflow hose is conical, i.e. wedge-shaped in section. It must be placed with the tip of the wedge to the edge of the hose, so that when tightened, it will be pressed into the spacer.
Threaded connections do not tighten tightly.

The bath is turned upside down again, the legs are mounted. The adjusting screws are screwed in with a measurement so that they protrude equally. Next, the bath is turned over and brought into the bathroom; a more experienced worker should be on the side of the drain.

Then the bath is carefully put in place, moving close to the walls. At the same time, an experienced one makes sure that the outlet of the bath gets into the sewer pipe. Then the bath is leveled, the outlet is sealed. Until the sealant has hardened, the joints are tightly tightened with a fork wrench: who is larger, sits in the bath and holds, and who has smaller hands, bends, reaches out and twists: all turnkey places are outside. After the sealant hardens (if it is silicone; if it is a soft sealant, immediately), check for leaks.

If it does not flow, or is eliminated, the gaps between the sides of the bathtub and the walls are sealed with the same silicone. Streaks and influxes of silicone are immediately removed with a rag soaked in vinegar. It remains to install the screen, but more on that later.

steel bath

The installation of a steel bath is done in the same way as an acrylic one, with the exception of the legs: they are inserted into regular fasteners and fixed with bolts, nuts on threaded studs or wedges. You need to fix it tightly, but gradually, shaking the legs and tapping them with a rubber mallet. The legs should sit in their places like a glove.

Here, too, there is a nuance: if the backlash of the legs allows, you need to lay pieces of rubber from the car camera under their surfaces in contact with the bath bowl. Then the bath will ring less when filled with water.

Cast iron bath

Installation cast iron bath has its own characteristics: it is very heavy, and tossing it is risky for the environment. Therefore, if the dimensions of the bathroom allow, the “naked” bathtub should be immediately brought there, and there it should already be equipped with a drain and legs. If the bath is on decorative legs, then its alignment is also done in a “naked” form on the spot, and only then proceed to the equipment.

Leveling a bathtub on decorative legs is a time-consuming and extremely responsible operation. Leg pads negate aesthetics, and filing legs requires precise measurements and professional skills. And each time such a bath needs to be dragged out, turned over, and then again put on legs and dragged. Therefore, for a bathtub on decorative legs, the floor of the bathroom needs to be increased in advance.

It is also inconvenient and risky to put a cast-iron bathtub on its side for drain installation. Therefore, it should be immediately placed on two strong boards, and to install the drain, raise the front edge by placing chocks or bricks under them. And work extremely carefully: a “splashed” bath guarantees a broken arm or a crushed hand.

plastic bath

On sale there are cheap substitutes for acrylic bathtubs. When installing such a plastic bathtub, in addition to a particularly careful attitude towards it, it is necessary to place several larch chocks under the bottom, processed like logs under the legs. With such a pillow, a very budget bath may well last a dozen years.

Rationally located and trouble-free plumbing in the bathroom is an important component of the comfort of the owners. Its flawless connection is a guarantee good relations with neighbors from the apartment below. To achieve the ideal, you need a professional installation, the price for which not everyone agrees.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with detailed description the process of installing and connecting sanitary ware made of cast iron, acrylic, steel. We thoroughly describe the nuances of connecting to the sewer. The information presented by us is supplemented by photo collections, diagrams, videos.

modern industry offers us bathtubs of various shapes and colors, made from various materials. Due to the variety of models, the homeowner always faces the problem of choice.

If the shape of the container and its coloring excite us more from an aesthetic point of view, then important factors depend on the material of manufacture. performance characteristics products: its practicality, appearance and durability.

In addition to the material, dimensions and configuration of the bowl, the choice of bath is influenced by the size of the hygienic room, the height of the sides that is convenient for all members of the family, the presence of additional devices and functions.

In the production of bath bowls are used:

Steel. Steel plumbing attracts affordable price, an abundant assortment. Due to the lightness, the installation can be handled without the involvement of assistants. The disadvantages include high heat transfer, the ability to deform, bend under the weight of large people, "noise" when water is drawn into the bowl.
Cast iron. Expensive, reliable, durable. Does not make noise when filling with water, perfectly maintains the temperature in the container. Due to the impressive weight, the installation of a cast-iron bath cannot be carried out alone. Plumbing is quite fragile, with careless handling, you can split the bowl or damage the enamel.
Acrylic. Easy and inexpensive option, which is easier and more logical to replace than to repair. It does not sound when water is filled, it retains heat, but it does not last long enough and does not please with stability. With the installation without difficulty, you can handle it yourself.

If there are people with impressive weight in the family, it is advisable to install sanitary containers made of steel and acrylic on brick pedestals or additional supports built from it.

These measures will provide stability and stabilize the position of the bottom. For owners with a less solid build, instead of capital brick fixtures, it is enough to install an additional frame made of a bar or a steel profile.

Features of installing a cast iron bath

Cast iron is a heavy material. And the bath from it has a lot of weight. To prevent this massive object from damaging doorways and furniture, you need to properly organize installation work. It is necessary to regulate and connect the bath directly in the bathroom, without transferring the container to other rooms.

Some cast iron bathtubs can be fitted with decorative legs. Such models become a real decoration of the interior and a designer find. If, in the process of adjusting the level of such a bath, use booster pads, you can completely destroy all the efforts of the designer.

Pay attention to the legs of this charming cast-iron model. Of course, they cannot be unscrewed or lengthened by placing some materials under them, but they must stand on a perfectly flat surface.

You can get around this moment by filing the legs at the base, but only a professional can perform these works with high quality.

There are features when connecting the drain to the sewer. it is better not to put it on its side. You can simply lift the front of the container. In this case, additional space will appear, which will be enough to complete the work. It is necessary to temporarily fix the structure in the desired state, using wooden bars.

The general principle of the work is the maximum accuracy and the lack of the ability to move heavy containers.

A guide for installing a cast-iron container on bricks, if there is a need for this solution, you will find in posted on our website.

The nuances of installing a plastic bath

Plastic bathtubs are a cheap analogue of acrylic models, so the installation process of these models is similar to one another. But there is a difference, of course. For plastic construction a special pillow must be created, the task of which is to relieve the load on the bottom of the product.

The pillow can be made of wood (larch) or cement. Baths made of plastic must be handled with great care. Care for her with aggressive detergents is strictly prohibited. If these nuances are ignored, then after 7 years, or even after 5 years, the bath will need to be thrown out.

Bath screen construction

The space between the bathroom and the floor can be left open if outside surface models are attractive. But more often than not, we still try to close this gap.

This can be done using, for example, . This bathroom accessory is sold in stores, but some people prefer homemade screens. Homemade attracts with its originality and cheapness.

Those who think that a bathtub screen is only used to cover the side of the bathtub are mistaken. It can become a storage place for all kinds of household chemicals and hygiene products.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Installing any bath is not as easy as it might seem. This video shows some of the installation nuances that you should pay attention to. Take a look and see if you can do this job on your own:

The theory of how to install different types do-it-yourself baths, we outlined to you. It remains only to apply the acquired knowledge in practice. We warn you that theory is not always easy to translate into practice.

You will have to skillfully use different tools, as well as show knowledge of the intricacies of the installation process. Particular attention should be paid to cast iron products. Take reasonable care not to injure your hands and feet.

You can ask a question or talk about how you personally installed the bath and connected it to the sewer in the block below. Please comment and share useful information. We and visitors to the site are interested in your opinion.

You need to choose the right plumbing. There are many varieties of it. Today, the owners of houses and apartments often purchase showers. However, baths do not lose their popularity. Such plumbing today can be made from different materials.

You can do the installation yourself. It is important to know all the subtleties of this process. How to install a bath with your own hands, expert advice will help. For each type of plumbing, special methods apply. They will be discussed further.

Installation Features

When considering how to properly install a bath, you need to start with general description this process. Also important is the choice of plumbing. The bathtub is a large product. It can be quite heavy. At the same time, such plumbing must be handled carefully so as not to damage the surface. The coating may crack or chip.

Often, installation has to be carried out in a cramped room. This increases the risk of damage to the tub. Cast iron varieties can themselves damage the finish. Therefore, it is recommended to work with an assistant. This makes installation faster and easier.

It is also worth considering one more nuance. The connection of the drain and siphon is carried out almost by touch. To complete the task, the master must have certain skills.

When learning how to install pay attention to the advice of experts. They argue that it is extremely important to perform all actions carefully. You will need to be careful. Otherwise, the work will need to be carried out again. So, for example, dropping a tool into a bath can damage its surface. In this case, you will need to buy new plumbing.

The type of material from which the bath is made depends on the actions of the installer. Therefore, if you want to do the installation yourself, you need to consider the features of each type of this plumbing. This will determine which type of bath better fit in a particular case.

Steel and acrylic bath

The answer to this question can be obtained if we consider all the subtleties of this process. First you need to consider the features of each. They are steel, acrylic and cast iron. Each variety has its own characteristics.

Rigid and relatively inexpensive is a steel bath. It is easy to install it yourself. It doesn't even require an assistant. The disadvantage of steel varieties is their fragility. When water is poured into such a bowl, the material makes a fairly loud sound. Bath "plays", which is reflected in the state of the enamel. This type of plumbing is suitable for a small room. Here it can be leaned against three walls. This will extend its service life. It should also be noted that the steel bath easily gives off heat to the surrounding space. The water in it cools down quickly. More costs will be required to pay for energy resources for heating water.

One good option is an acrylic bathtub. Its service life reaches 20 years. Such a bath is more expensive than steel varieties. Her weight is also average. To install this type of plumbing, you will need the help of a second person. However, installation does not cause any particular difficulties.

Before considering how to install an acrylic bath, you need to know about its disadvantages. Even high-quality bowls do not tolerate exposure to chemicals. Therefore, cleaning the surface presents certain difficulties. Do not use abrasive, aggressive chemicals. Only clean water leaves no traces on the bowl.

Cast iron bath

Special attention is given to the consideration of the technique of how to install a cast-iron bath. Such varieties are distinguished by large weight. She has many advantages. However, this bowl is not without its drawbacks.

Cast iron varieties of bathtubs are considered almost eternal. However, this statement is only true for proper care and handling the bathroom. This is a heavy product. You will need a strong assistant to carry out its installation. It is recommended to install such a bath in a small room where it can be rested against three walls.

In addition to a long service life, cast iron bowls have practically no advantages. So, an acrylic bathtub surpasses them in terms of practicality and economy. The plastic heats up almost instantly. However, it does not give off heat to the environment. It only takes a little to fill the cup hot water. If the owners have an acrylic bath, they can install a boiler with only 50 liters.

A cast iron bath, on the other hand, consumes a lot of heat. At the same time, she quickly gives it to the environment. The bowl takes a long time to warm up. If you have a conventional cast iron bath, you will need to install a boiler with a capacity of 100 liters. At the same time, the cost of paying for energy resources increases 1.5 times compared to steel varieties, and also 2.5 times compared to acrylic structures.

When figuring out how to install a bath, you also need to consider the features of installing cast-iron varieties. Due to the large weight, installation is much more complicated. It is almost impossible to put a bowl on an already prepared siphon without damaging it. Therefore, it is mounted to the bowl in advance. However, even in this case, the possibility of damage cannot be ruled out.

Installing a cast iron bathtub on legs is also challenging task. If you purchase adjustable type supports, they can quickly break. This installation option is only suitable for a small room where the bath is pressed against three walls.

Preparing for installation

Before considering the technology of how to install a bath with your own hands, you need to pay attention to the preparation process. This step cannot be neglected.

First you need to dismantle and take out of the room old bath(if it was already installed here). If a cast-iron bowl was previously installed, it will need to be cut, split into pieces. If the room is small, its dismantling can be difficult. There are no such problems with acrylic and steel bathtubs.

Next, you need to properly prepare the floor and walls, remove all irregularities. You will need to purchase a number of tools. You need to prepare a grinder, a chisel, a hammer and a screwdriver. Will also need cement mortar, polyurethane foam. If the installation will be carried out on the frame, you will need to purchase material for its assembly.

You should purchase paint, mounting foam, sealant. In the course of work, electrical tape may be required. Feet are required to install the bathtub. drain valve and other related items. It is also recommended to purchase a new faucet. It will harmoniously complement the appearance of the bath.

If the owners have plastic sewer pipes, you need to purchase a drain corrugation with a diameter of 50 mm. For cast iron pipes, this element of the system must have a diameter of 40 mm.

When learning how to install a corner or straight bath, you need to pay attention to the preparation of the sewer drain. If there are defects, malfunctions in this system, they must be eliminated before It is especially important to eliminate leaks, if any are found.

Also, before starting work, you need to study the instructions of the manufacturer of the bath. The manual describes in detail the installation technology. This information must be studied before starting work.

Walls and floor

There are certain standards for installing a bathtub. This applies to the preparation and installation process. It is recommended to carry out wall cladding in the room after installing the bowl. This allows you to comply with all sanitary and hygienic standards. When the tile is mounted after installing the bath, its bottom edge hangs over the plumbing. It is covered with a waterproofing composition. This avoids the appearance of fungus, rot.

If the bath is installed already in the finished room, which does not require overhaul, her legs should be at least 2 cm higher than the old plumbing. Otherwise, an ugly gap appears. Its finishing will cause a number of difficulties. Even if you use a similar tile, new material will be slightly different in color from the old coating.

It is also worth paying due attention correct finish gender. Many novice masters have a question, how to install a bath so that it does not stagger? To perform the installation correctly, you need to level the floor. At the same time, durable materials are chosen for finishing the base. The weight of the bath with water is quite large.

The cement layer under the bowl must be continuous. It is not laid with a comb, but by extrusion. If there are voids in the mortar, the tile may crack from the weight of the tub at that location.

Experienced experts recommend installing larch logs on the floor (other types of wood are not suitable). They are laid along. They will have legs. Boards must be treated with special antiseptic solutions. This technique will evenly distribute the load on the floor. Also, the logs will help to properly adjust the height of the bath. So that subsequently the boards do not shrink, you need to install a bowl on them and draw water into it. In this position, the system remains for at least 2 days (preferably a week).

Features of installing a corner acrylic bowl

There are a number of recommendations on how to install an acrylic bath. It is necessary to take into account the features of this design. Corner acrylic bowls are very popular today. They will harmoniously look both in a small and spacious bathroom. This shape of the bowl allows you to install a lot of additional elements interior. For example, if there is corner bath in the room it will be possible to place a washbasin with a cabinet. There is also enough space to install a bidet or washing machine.

There are several nuances of installing acrylic corner baths. They need to be taken into account before starting work. Similar designs can be with the right or left type of location. The ease of connecting the water supply and sewer outlet depends on the correct choice of the type of bowl.

The walls for installing such a bath must be very even. Otherwise, the structure will not be able to be leveled. It will wobble and fall apart quickly.

Corner bowls are installed on the legs. At the same time, the supports must be firmly fixed around the entire perimeter. They will later serve to fasten the frame and its guides. This work requires precision and accuracy. You will need to consider in detail how to install the bath on the frame.

Where the bowl will be adjacent to the wall, you will need to mount a flexible plinth. It does not deform during vibrations, and will also avoid water leakage. Otherwise, the installation of a corner acrylic bathtub is similar to the installation technology of any bowl made of this material.

Mounting the acrylic bowl on the frame

Should be considered frame technology how to properly install an acrylic bathtub. For built-in plumbing, this is one of the the best options installation. To carry out the work you will need a building level. Its length should correspond to the diagonal of the acrylic product. The hammer must have a rubber tip.

A pipe must be attached to the sewer outlet. It must be flexible and have the same diameter as the tub outlet. Here you need to attach a siphon. If it is new, you need to carefully study the manufacturer's instructions. How to install a siphon on a bath is indicated by the company that supplies the bowl. All the nuances of this process are discussed here.

The siphon will need to be pre-assembled. It is attached to the bath, smearing the joints with sanitary silicone. It freezes within 4 hours.

After that, you need to mount the frame. First fix the guides along the wall. These profiles must be fixed as evenly as possible. Other elements of the frame will be mounted from them. They are installed on the sides. Vertical posts are fixed to them. The connection is made by welding or bolts. The corners must be checked with a level. If one of them is lowered and the other is raised, you need to align them. At the same time, the lowered angle is raised, and not vice versa. After that, they are additionally fixed with strips for rigidity.

After that, an acrylic bowl is installed in the prepared structure. An overflow from the siphon must be connected to its side hole, and a sewer drain to the central one. Plumbing communications are located above the bathroom, so their installation is carried out later. Next, a screen is set up, a plinth between the wall and the bowl.

Installation of an acrylic bowl on legs

There is a certain system on how to properly install a bathtub with legs. Supports are supplied complete with sanitary ware. There are special protrusions on the bottom of such bowls. Legs are mounted to them. In order for the structure to be rigid, the supports also need to be interconnected. To perform this procedure, nuts and studs are used.

Next, a siphon is connected to the drain. After that, you can proceed to the installation of the bath. The legs must be firmly planted on the floor surface. They are checked with a level. If one corner is raised, the other corners must also be raised. To do this, turn the bowl over. The legs are adjusted to the desired level.

After that, you can connect communications. The plumbing will need to be installed later. How to install the mixer on the bath, wash the manufacturer's instructions for this equipment.

In rare cases, acrylic. This is due to the complexity of performing such work. Bricks are difficult to install at all points of support at the same level. The bathtub can wobble because of this. The only way to fix this problem is to create a framework. Therefore, installing an acrylic bowl on bricks is not recommended by experts.

Cast iron bowl installation

The question of how to install a cast iron bath deserves special attention. In this case, the quality of the floor base and walls put forward increased requirements. Such a bowl is almost always installed on legs. Bricks can also be used in this case. The frame in this case will be difficult to assemble. It must be very durable. The metal of the guides must withstand a weight of about 500 kg.

First, you need to mount the legs on the back of the bowl. They have plastic nozzles. This element is necessary to level the position of the bath. Also, the nozzles prevent the destruction of the floor surface. Between themselves, the supports must be tightened with bolts. This will make the connection stronger. There should be a slight slope towards the drain. After that, a drain from the sewer is supplied. There shouldn't be any leaks.

Next, you need to mount the screen. This is an optional but desirable procedure. How to install a screen under the bath, expert advice will help. They recommend using a heater for this. This will reduce heat loss, which will be significant if a cast iron bowl is used. To do this, use a special mounting foam. It covers the back of the bowl. After that, you need to install a decorative screen. It should be 1 cm higher than the side. So the water will not overflow onto the floor.

The joints between the wall are closed with a plinth. All connections must be carefully treated with sealant. Installing a cast iron bowl requires considerable physical effort. It is better to entrust this work to professionals.

Installation of a steel bowl

When installing a steel bowl, the question of how to install a screen under the bath disappears. In the case of installing such a product, it is necessary to provide free access to all communications.

First, the bowl is placed upside down. Under it you need to lay a soft material. Next, try on the supports. The supporting channel must be adjusted so that the legs fit snugly against the bottom of the bowl. The joints must be degreased with alcohol. Do not use paint thinner.

Remove the protective film from the pads. Supports are attached to the places provided for them. They need to be pressed tight. Threaded studs must be carefully hammered into the plastic tips. The tip is screwed with nuts to the supports.

The bath is installed on legs. If necessary, their level must be adjusted. There should be a slight slope towards the drain. The sewerage and the mixer are connected. Joints must be sealed with high quality sealant. Next, you can attach the plinth to the wall. You can install a decorative screen. It is better to give preference to sliding structures.

Having considered how to install a bath, you can perform this procedure yourself. The quality of the installation will be high. The bathtub will last for many years.