How to install plastic windows in a wooden house. Installation of plastic windows in a wooden house Technology of installation of plastic windows in a wooden house

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Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is currently very popular - it is affordable, holds heat well and does not lose geometric parameters. Against the backdrop of a rise in energy prices, such materials are almost a panacea, so many people are interested in installing a plastic window in a wooden house with their own hands. In the article, in addition to installation instructions, you will find photo and video materials that will help you cope with the task.

Log house with an attic in the process of glazing with PVC windows

Choice of plastic windows

In order to choose a good plastic window that is right for your case, you will have to pay attention to several parameters. Do not neglect these indicators so that during operation you will not have any complaints about the manufacturer or even force majeure.

Features of double-glazed windows

Single-chamber (left) and triple-chamber (right) double-glazed window

The production of double-glazed windows means not only different technologies manufacturing, but also different glass - this directly affects their performance characteristics. Below you will see what they are:

The usual option with float glass. Such glass has high light transparency and is devoid of any shortcomings.
Multifunctional double-glazed windows. It has protection against ultraviolet radiation (exposure to sunlight), has a low heat transfer capacity. These features directly affect the maintenance of the microclimate in the room - they do not let in the cold in winter, and the heat in summer.
Self-cleaning designs. Such double-glazed windows help to significantly save time on cleaning, since the windows do not have to be washed from the outside. The special composition with which the glass is coated, when exposed to ultraviolet (sunlight), destroys the dirt that the first rain will wash away. Leaks and stains do not remain.
Soundproof options. In this case, thickened glasses and a scientific approach to the distance between them are used. Thanks to the high-quality profile, seal and glazing bead, vibration, as such, is completely eliminated. Such windows do not absorb, but reflect airborne noise, which affects densely populated and industrial areas, as well as houses located near railways and airfields.
Reflective glazing. They are also called specular because they are shiny and reflective with a reflectance of about 4%. These are perfect for hot weather. climatic conditions- they do not let heat through, they do not heat up themselves, but at the same time they freely let photons (light) through.
Colored glass panes. Such glasses soften bright light and poorly transmit heat, although transparency does not suffer from this. Properties (retention of light and heat) change with the hues.
Tinted windows. They have the same characteristics as colored ones, but at the same time, no coloring pigments are used in the composition. The shade changes due to the gluing of a special film.
Energy saving options with k-glass. This is an ordinary float glass, on which a k-coating (a thin metal film) is applied by the pyrolysis method during its manufacture (in the hot state). This significantly reduces thermal conductivity and increases mechanical strength (glass is placed on the outside).
Energy saving options with i-glass. It has a reduced thermal conductivity inherent in k-glass. But the i-coating is a thin layer of silver and the glass can easily be deformed, so it is installed inside a double-glazed window.
Constructions from smart glasses. These are, as it were, “living” windows that change their parameters (transparency and thermal conductivity) when they change from the outside. This category includes energy-saving and self-cleaning windows.
Triplex glass. It is a multilayer sheet, where a transparent polymer is in the interlayer. This factor does not reduce translucency, but fire resistance and mechanical strength increase (this does not affect thermal conductivity and sound insulation). If such glass is broken, it will not shatter into small fragments, but will be held on the polymer.

Note. Double-glazed windows are also distinguished by the number of chambers. For regions with a temperate climate, one- and two-chamber packages are popular, in cold zones - three-chamber packages.

Video: Insulating glass formula determines the choice

Plastic profile

Five-chamber profile made of metal-plastic

The functionality of the PVC profile for windows can be determined by six parameters, including:

number of cameras. According to the building standard, 3, 4 and 5-chamber PVC profiles are produced. In this case, the thickness of the first two options is 60 mm, and the third - 70 mm.
The width of the outer wall can be of three classes:

A - 3 mm ± 0.2 mm;
B - 2.7 mm ± 0.2 mm;
C - 2.5 mm ± 0.2 mm.

Reinforcing or guiding profile. It determines the rigidity of the frame and its service life. When installing a plastic window in a wooden house, pay attention to its cross section - it should be a galvanized square with a wall of at least 1.2 mm. L-shaped perforated or ferrous metal, especially of smaller thickness, indicates poor quality.
Rubber seals. High-quality seals are made of rubber and have a guarantee from the manufacturer for at least 10 years. But if at least once a year the inserts are lubricated with special silicone, then the service life will double.
A high-quality PVC profile does not fade in the sun, does not turn yellow and does not emit a smell, but this depends on its composition:

TiO2 is titanium dioxide. An effective white dye, which is practically absent in budget profiles.
Chalk - its allowable rate in cheap profiles is limited to 6%, but unscrupulous manufacturers exceed this parameter by 2-3 times. From this, the plastic burns out, turns yellow, and there is no perfectly smooth surface.

The manufacturer largely determines the quality. So, Chinese windows are much cheaper, but they will not last long. In the countries of the European Union and in Russia, a law has been introduced on laser marker marks, which are applied every 30-50 cm from the end side. It displays the date of manufacture and the country of origin. If such a marking is present, then there is no doubt about the quality of PVC, reinforcement and seals - they will comply with GOST and SNiP.

PVC window installation process

Below you will find step by step instructions for the installation of metal-plastic windows in a wooden house. This is not difficult, but it will require the presence of certain carpentry tools - I will not write them out separately and you will learn about them in the process of reading.

Removing old windows

I offer special instructions for dismantling old windows from the opening so as not to damage those elements that will remain in operation. But this applies only to old houses, where there are already window openings with a pigtail and they meet your needs - this item is irrelevant in a new building.

First of all, all glass should be removed - for this, the glazing bead and all the carnations that did not come out during the elimination of this profile are removed. Sometimes the studs are invisible, so to make sure they are present or not, run a knife or screwdriver at the installation site of the glazing beads, slightly resting on the glass. If the fixing material remains there, then the blade will definitely stumble on it, and then, as they say, it’s a matter of technology.

In some cases, in order to clog windows to the maximum and get rid of drafts, the glass is glued to the frame with silicone or silicone sealant. In such situations, all attempts to pick up the glass with a knife to tear it off the frame are doomed to failure. There is only one way out - to break the glass, but it can shatter and injure you. To avoid this, a wet newspaper is glued to the glass and broken - all the fragments will fall nearby and not scatter.

The frame rests on nails, which are also very difficult to pull out - it is much easier to cut vertical frame profiles with a hacksaw, as shown in the top photo. After that, pick up a part of the cut vertical with a nail puller and tear it off. Perform a similar operation on the opposite side, and then tear off the diameters with a nail puller. The opening is ready and you can insert a plastic window.

Window casing in a wooden house

So they make a groove for the casing spike in the mortgage bar

First of all, window openings should be cut out and there are two options here. If the plastic windows are already ready, then, of course, you will have to focus on their sizes, but this is more an exception than a rule. Usually, first of all, window (door) openings are cut out and only after that they measure the windows or invite a representative of the company where the windows will be made (this is a free service).

Casing in a mortgage bar (left) and in a deck (right)

To begin with, let's look at the features of the installation of casing (pigtails). Casing into a deck clearly implies cutting a spike along the verticals of the opening, and in the box making a groove for this spike, as shown in the image at the top right. But we will focus on a pigtail with a mortgage bar - it is more popular.

With a mortgage bar, more options. The groove is cut out in the opening according to the size of the bar (usually it is 50 × 50 mm) and the bar is driven into it without nailing it, and a distance of 3 cm is left at the top to shrink the house. But sometimes they make the so-called stud-monolith, this is when the stud is one piece with the vertical of the casing. In both cases, logs or beams, when the wall shrinks, will simply slide along the spike without deforming window frame.

On both sides of the inserted bar, a jute or felt tape is nailed with a stapler - this is necessary for sealing and. Now you can screw a draft box to the bar, which is most often assembled from a 50 × 100 mm pine board. In this case, it is best to use wood screws with a length of 75 mm - they are guaranteed not to pass through the bar and will not reach the edge of the opening. If this happens, then a log or beam may hang on the screw, which will lead to the formation of a gap between the logs.

Now the upper and lower crossbars are inserted, but if it is placed below between the vertical boards, then it is placed on top of them. The gap left should be 3 cm, which means that the distance from the end of the vertical to the top of the opening is 8 cm, that is, the jumper, having a 5-centimeter thickness, after installation will leave 3 cm of free space. The boards of the draft box are best fastened together metal corners. Now we are talking about installing a plastic window in a wooden house with our own hands, so below you can watch a video on how a pigtail is made.

Important! The use of mounting foam in this case is unacceptable! The foam will glue the box to the opening, which will prevent the logs from sliding freely along the bar during shrinkage.

Video: Okosyachka or casing of the opening - protection against shrinkage of the building

Installation of PVC window sill

PVC window sill

After installing the draft frame (casing), you can proceed with the installation of the window sill - this is the first step to assemble the window within the opening. The fact is that the window sill does not adjoin the transverse profile on the side, but the frame is placed on top - there is a special recess there. But for strength on the sides of the box, you should make a cut of 5-8 mm and insert the window sill there - this way it will hold much better. Use to level the horizontal level. plastic plates, as coasters (mention about them when ordering a window if you insert it yourself).

Self-tapping screws with a press washer

The window sill element must be attached to the bottom of the window opening with self-tapping screws, stepping back from the edge plastic panel 20-25 mm, and subsequently the heads will be covered with a frame profile. To prevent the screw head from pushing through the plastic, you need a version with a press washer without a rubber gasket, as in the top photo.

Installing a plastic window in a wooden house

PVC frames are always pasted over with a protective film, but according to the installation technology, it is removed only when the window is finally inserted - this protects the plastic from scratches and dirt. To prevent the sashes from opening (this interferes with installation), screw the window handles and put them in the “closed” position (vertically down).

On vertical and horizontal window profiles, holes are drilled on the installation line of the double-glazed window with a diameter of 1 mm larger than the diameter of the fixing screw. Most often, the screw is 5 mm, and the hole is made 6 mm. The hats must be recessed into the plastic, so with a 10 mm drill they make a hole deep to the metal profile. Three holes are needed on the sides, and two at the top and bottom, indented from the corner by 50-60 mm.

At the bottom, the frame is placed directly on the windowsill, but at the top and sides there should be a gap of about 10 mm or a little less. Therefore, to screw the frame evenly, use wooden spacers (they are easy to make yourself). When everything is screwed on, check the vertical and horizontal levels, as well as the opening-closing function of the valves, so that there is no skew.

If the sash closes normally (there is no friction anywhere, and there is a tight fit), then close the window and insert double-glazed windows. It is unlikely that it will be possible to press the glazing bead with your hands, therefore, in order for this profile to fit tightly into the mounting groove, it is finished off with a rubber hammer. Now it remains to blow out the gap between the frame and the draft box with mounting foam, and it will be possible to open the sash the very next day (a precautionary measure against distorting the profile). It remains to make slopes inside and out, as well as install trim, but this is after the final shrinkage of the house.

Conclusion

In fact, the installation of a plastic window in a wooden house, except for the device and installation of the casing, is done in the same way as in a brick, block or monolithic building. But care is needed in any case, so try to remember all your actions and, if necessary, read the article again. You can also print the installation process on a printer and keep it in your pocket while you work, to use when needed.

It is known that wooden windows in houses built from timber are rightfully considered the safest and most practical solution that favorably affects the microclimate in the dwelling.

Fundamental in the presented case is that when it shrinks, the window system and walls behave uniformly. The decisive role here is played by their installation according to technology.

Features of installing windows in a wooden house

The assembly of windows in a timber structure has certain features. As you know, wood shrinks. In houses made of chopped logs or during the first 5 years, shrinkage is about 10-13% of the height of the building, while it shrinks no more than 2%.

If there is warping of window structures, the formation of interventional gaps in the walls or cracking of a double-glazed window, this indicates a violation of the technology during the installation process.

In houses made of chopped wood, logs, planed or profiled timber, it is advisable to install a window support after shrinkage of the house (not earlier than 1.5 years after construction).
The installation of windows after the construction of the log house is not rational due to the lack of the possibility of calculating the shrinkage of the walls. This indicator depends on the moisture content of the timber.
In houses made of glued laminated timber, windows can be installed immediately after erection of walls and installation of a roof of the house.
The installation of windows must be carried out exclusively by means of sliding joints - support bars and casing. Tying window blocks and pigtail construction to logs or timber is strictly prohibited. Tight fastening during shrinkage leads to a violation of the integrity of the window modules and walls of the building. In fact, the window system must balance separately in relation to the wall.
In the upper part above the window frames, it is necessary to provide for a shrinkage margin - a gap of 6-7 cm. Miscalculations of spare gaps can lead to poor closing of windows or interventional gaps in the walls.

Scheme of installation of wooden windows

Window opening preparation

Before mounting the box, prepare a window opening. The opening must be rectangular shape without cracks, recesses, warps and other flaws. From all its surfaces it is necessary to remove construction waste, dirt, dust and deposits.

In order to avoid distortions in the future, accurate measurements of the external, internal and lateral sides of the opening are required.

In the case when the skew of the opening is significant, and it is not possible to correct it, it is recommended to expand the window parameters in such a way that highest level the outer opening exceeded the width by 2.5-4 cm, and the height by 1-2 cm.

To carry out the extension makes it possible to install an additional profile on the window. This will prevent the appearance of gaps between the box and the hole in the areas of maximum skew.

In addition to the option of expanding the size of the opening to correct the skew, there is such an option as increasing the parameters of the window frame.

siege

A special design, which is a wooden box without a bottom crossbar, the purpose of which is to securely fasten the window and maintain the shape of the window frame, regardless of the degree of shrinkage of the house, is called casing or pigtail.

There are several types of this design:

Whole. It is made from specially processed solid material.
Adhesive. The individual components are made of typesetting boards, connected by means of micro-grooves and glue. All burrs and small knots are removed.
Mixed. Part of the casing is made in one piece, and the other part is made using glue. Upon completion of installation, the pigtail is varnished. This type is suitable for the use of large window sills.

An okosyachka is made according to the size of each window. Moreover, if internal lining is planned, then a sample can be made for it. When facing on both sides, sampling is not performed.

The assembly of the casing can begin after the preparation of the window opening.

Its production is carried out as follows:

Grooves are made in the base, which is adjacent to the window opening. A beam of the same size is inserted into them, acting as the side of the casing.
First, a beam is placed at the bottom of the opening, which will prevent the displacement of the side elements.
A seal is placed under the beam from linen tow.
Sealing material is placed in the recesses and install the side boards.
The final step is fixing the top board of the structure.
A space is left on top of the pigtail for the wood to dry out and fill it with a sealant. So in the process of drying the logs, the window opening will not be affected by the load.

Window installation

The window is installed in the following sequence:

A waterproofing layer is laid on the lower part of the opening. and sealing material.
Install the window frame and fix it with the help of linings or wedges made of wood.
Using a building level or plumb line, adjust the horizontals and verticals. In this case, attention should be paid to the actual horizontal and vertical, and not to the sides of the window opening.
On each side of the opening, in increments of 50 cm, drill holes.
With self-tapping screws fix the box.
Perform isolation of the space between the box and the wall sealing material.
Next, mount the frame. It is installed in the grooves of the box and attached to it with screws.
Window blocks are installed on the box with hinges(separable and inseparable). The difference between them is the possibility of removing the hinge. Detachable are convenient in areas where there is no possibility of raising the window transom. Even fastening of the hinges contributes to the even hanging of window transoms. They are fastened with screws.
The sash is locked by means of a locking element or a latch. After checking the opening and closing of the transom, fix the frame using nails.
Next, proceed to the installation of window sills. They are mounted from the inside so that the side edges go into the walls by 4.5-5 cm on both sides.
Immediately before installation, using a lime-gypsum mixture, align the bottom of the window opening.
The window sill is fixed with wedges. After installation thermal insulation material finally fix it.
Installation of ebbs is carried out from the outside of the opening- for the entire width of the frame penetration into the base.
The gaps between the casing of the base and the box, as well as the upper and sides of the window, are closed with a casing. It is advisable to use the same type of wood from which the house is built as platbands.
All parts of the casing are interconnected. To do this, use spikes, nails or adhesive solution.
Preliminary marking of placement fasteners (the step is 10-12 cm).
So that in the process of fastening the platbands they do not move, the design can be put on glue.
The final step is to fix the platbands with nails or self-tapping screws., and closing the gaps between the base and the platbands with sealing material.

For the manufacture of casing, wood with a moisture content of at least 10% is used., otherwise cracks form inside the structure over time.
In the manufacture of pigtails is strictly prohibited use metal fasteners.
Building foam cannot be used as a sealing material when assembling the casing. In this case, the wood is bonded, which prevents its natural shrinkage.
In the process of installing windows, it is important to properly drill holes for them. The optimal distance from the window sill to the floor is 85-90 cm.
Experts do not recommend installing windows without installing a pigtail, even if the house was built many years ago and the log house is completely dry. This is due to the fact that throughout the entire life of the tree has a tendency to shrink.
For greater efficiency and heat retention, wooden windows should be installed closer to the outside of the window opening.
As a material for the window sill, it is necessary to choose hardwoods. The window sill made of glued wood has the longest service life, the window sill made of solid wood has the shortest service life (as a rule, the product is warped).
The corners of the window opening should be 90 degrees, and the diagonals should not differ by more than 10 mm. If the hole in the base is larger than the allowable value, more sealing material will be required. If you do not ensure the evenness of the corners, warping of the box is possible.
It is important to correctly calculate the depth of the window in the opening so that the dew point isoline, equal to 10 degrees, passes in its inner part. Then there will be no condensation on the inside of the window.

Installing windows in a wooden house is easier than in brick or concrete buildings. This operation has a number of features, which we will discuss below.

Preparatory procedures are half the battle. a lot will depend on them.

Dismantling of old frames

Before inserting windows in a wooden house, it is necessary to dismantle the old ones. If your house is new and there are no double-glazed windows at all, you can skip this paragraph. Most offices for the dismantling of old windows will take 50% of the cost of new ones. Therefore, to carry out this procedure independently is beneficial from an economic point of view. In addition, it does not require special skills.

Tip: old frames can be used for greenhouses or outbuildings.

Armed with a puller, a screwdriver and other tools, you will need to dismantle. We start with the sashes: open them, remove them from the hinges and pull them out. Next, remove the frames, window sill and other elements.

Creating a simple casing

If we are talking about an old building and such elements already exist, you can skip this paragraph. Before you install a window in a wooden house, you need to create a "casing". An okosyachka is a structure along the opening, which saves the frames from all kinds of damage. The beam (including the "round timber") begins to deform over time - this process is called shrinkage. So that it does not affect the brand new double-glazed window, and install this design.

It is created as follows:

We cut out protrusions from a medium-sized timber (3 pieces - for each side of the opening). They will be needed to create carriages (side elements). The end bars should be set to a depth of 5 cm.
At the ends of each of the elements we create grooves - for reliable fixation. So that they do not creak, we cover the structure with rolled tow. Such a measure will also increase the thermal insulation of the window.
We get a U - shaped design. It must be mounted in the opening using large nails (200 mm) or special self-tapping screws.

There are other options for creating a pigtail, but this one is the simplest.

We prepare tools and materials

We will need the following:

Powerful drill and screwdriver.
Level (preferably laser).
Chisel.
Roulette.
Gloves.
Mounting foam (or similar material).
Pliers.
Spacer bars (you can do it yourself).
anchor plates.
Hexagon (it will be needed for finishing fittings).
Anchor screws.

Main front of work

From preliminary procedures we pass to the final stages.

Measurements and design

Self-installation of PVC windows in wooden house starts with measurements. You will need to do the following:

Armed with a tape measure, measure all sides to the nearest millimeter.
We draw on paper a project of the future window with the preservation of all proportions.
We mark the places of separation, vents and others constituent elements that you want to see in your double-glazed window.
Having on hand ready plan, you can contact the company for the manufacture of windows.

Starting stage - window sill

Installation must begin with the window sill, as it is the basis of the entire structure. Install it like this:

Two grooves with a depth of no more than 10 cm are cut from the side in the box. This will allow you to securely fix the window sill.
We apply it and, if necessary, level it with wooden plates prepared earlier.

Tip: if you mount the window sill at the end, a gap will form, which will need to be repaired regularly. Installing it under the frame increases the efficiency of the structure.

Having achieved an even location, we fix the window sill with the help of self-tapping screws. Under the hat you need to put a rubber gasket - this will prevent possible cracking of the plastic.
We drill holes where the window sill will cover the frame. They need to be done at low speeds so as not to damage the plastic. If you use a powerful drill, during drilling, it may begin to melt, so it is better to arm yourself with a screwdriver.
Adjust the level. The window sill must be strictly horizontal!

Some manufacturers offer double-glazed windows without window sills (they are purchased separately and installed at the end). We advise you to purchase all the items at once from one seller - it's more reliable.

Preparing the ground for future work

Do not rush to remove the factory film - it will protect the structure from damage. We work in the following sequence:

We take out the frames and install the handle. To do this, put it in a horizontal position, fix it with bolts and lower it down.
We mark on the side racks the places for drilling the holes necessary for fixing the frames. Drill - 6 mm, respectively, self-tapping screw - 5 mm. On each side rack you need to make 2 holes (total - 4). They should be located at a distance of 30-40 cm from the lower and upper ends of the beam.
In order for the self-tapping screw to securely rest on the frame, it is necessary to drown it. To do this, use a 10 mm drill to make holes to the iron frame. The cap should freely enter the cavity of the beam.

We mount a PVC window

The turn of the most crucial stage has come - the installation of frames. We put the finished structure in the opening. We adjust on both sides of the frame and control them with a tape measure and a level. The distance from the sash to the pigtail on both sides should be the same (within 1 cm). You also need to control the verticality of the installation. This can be done with a plumb line.

Having achieved an even position, we put a spacer bar between the box and the frame. It will act as a stop during installation - without it, when screwing in the screws, the frame can go to the side. Having installed the bars, once again carefully check the evenness of the location along the slope. After making sure that the window is perfectly horizontal (vertical), we fix the window with self-tapping screws. They should be located between the window and the box.

This method of installing the box is highly reliable and mobile - if the wood is deformed, the frame will not warp. This is achieved due to the fact that the self-tapping screws are able to go in the direction of skew.

We insert the adjusting plates between the drain holes (they are needed to drain condensate - without them, the double-glazed window will inevitably fog up).
We insert a double-glazed window into the opening. It should not stand tightly - this is due to seasonal deformations of wood and other materials.

Important! If you find that there is no standard gap (5-7 mm), contact the manufacturer, as this is an obvious defect.

We evenly install the double-glazed window and fix it with the help of glazing beads (they should be included in the kit) with profile spikes. You need to tap on them until a characteristic click appears, signaling the correct insertion.
All existing gaps are filled with mounting foam. After 2-3 hours, cut off the excess with a knife.

This completes the installation of windows in a wooden house with your own hands.

A few words about cash

First of all, it is needed to increase the insulating properties and hide flaws. It closes the foamed cracks, which completely prevents the possibility of cold air entering inside. There is a second function - aesthetic. Cashing windows in a wooden house favorably frames the opening, giving it an attractive appearance.

It can be performed from various materials most often made of plastic. These are ready-made structures that only need to be fixed with self-tapping screws along the perimeter of the window. However, for wooden houses sometimes they also perform carved cashing. It can be made to order or independently, if a person has carpentry skills. After installation, the cashing is covered with an antiseptic and wood varnish - this will prolong its life.

Inserting a plastic window into a wooden house is not as difficult as it might seem: with the knowledge of some technical subtleties, it will be quite within the power of a non-professional. It must be remembered that wood is a special living material, and all work must be carried out taking into account the future shrinkage of the house. Therefore, the technology for installing a plastic window in this case will be somewhat different from standard installation. Let's consider each stage in detail.

Creating and preparing a window opening

How to insert a plastic window in a wooden house? The success of the work depends, first of all, on a well-prepared opening: most often it is cut through in a wooden house after the log house has been assembled, but sometimes it is done even at the construction stage. In the first case, it is possible to proceed to the preparation of openings only after the completion of the main shrinkage, that is, a year and a half after construction. The contours of the hole are drawn with a plumb line and a level, after which they are cut very carefully with a chainsaw.

It is advisable to apply the markup even at the stage of assembling the house, so that there are no pins in the places of the openings. The calculation is made so that the upper and lower logs are cut in half: this will allow you to calmly install the casing to even horizontal surfaces. When preparing the opening, it is necessary to take into account the size of the casing. Therefore, in width, it should be 14 cm larger than the frame dimensions, at least 12-14 cm larger at the top, and 7 cm at the bottom for installing a window sill and a layer of mounting foam.

If the opening is prepared at the assembly stage, it should be 10% less in width than planned. This is necessary, after the logs have dried, it will take the specified value. If you immediately give it standard size, after shrinkage, it will be more than necessary.

Before inserting plastic windows into a wooden house, you should carefully process all the end parts of the logs, cover them with an antiseptic to protect them from decay. In addition, the wood must be sanded so that the surface is smooth. Often it has to be leveled in height: wooden houses rarely remain perfectly even after shrinkage. In order for the frame to fit correctly, the hole must be leveled with a laser level and a plumb line.

Casing box installation

If you want to understand how to correctly insert plastic windows into a log house, it is important to understand the installation of the casing. This design is also commonly called a pigtail: it is designed to protect the window opening from shrinkage. The pigtail is an additional frame that is mounted to the end parts of the opening logs according to a sliding principle: the logs will gradually descend along it and will not harm the frame.

To create a movable connection, several mounting options are possible:

A rectangular groove 5 cm wide and 5 cm deep is cut out in the end part of the logs and in the side parts of the casing box. A bar of the same size wrapped with insulation is inserted into it. When lowering the logs, they will gradually slide along the bar, while the casing will remain in place, and the window blocks will not suffer.
A groove is cut out in the logs with a depth and width of 5 cm, and a T-shaped design of a pigtail made of timber is inserted into it. The spike should fit snugly into the groove; to get rid of the creak, it is wrapped with a heater.
There is also a reverse option: a spike is cut out in the logs of the opening, and a pigtail groove is mounted on it.

In all cases, vertical elements are placed first, the upper and lower horizontal boards are mounted to them. In some cases, the pigtail is installed without the bottom. A gap of about 7 cm is left above the top board: it will gradually decrease as the walls are lowered and disappear completely in a few years. For a while, it is filled with insulation so that the heat does not go outside.

The casing box must not be installed on mounting foam, it must not be used to fill the upper gap. This is an inelastic material, it will not compress, so the casing will simply lose its meaning and will fall along with the house itself, breaking the frames.

The pigtail, like other wooden elements, is treated with an antiseptic. After the protective layer has dried, it is ready for the installation of a plastic block.

Design selection criteria

When deciding how to correctly insert plastic windows into a wooden house made of timber or logs, it is necessary to study the proposals of manufacturers. Plastic window systems are selected according to several parameters:

The number of chambers in the profile determines the thermal efficiency. Manufacturers offer three-, four- and five-chamber profiles. A four-chamber will be quite enough for the conditions middle lane: thanks to the air gaps, it will not freeze and will be strong enough.
Glass unit type. The more air chambers and sheets of glass in it, the more powerful heat insulator it will be. However, triple-glazed windows are very expensive, while they are heavy and require high-quality fittings.
Hardware type. You can not save by choosing a set of accessories. The performance of the handle, the ability to choose operating modes, as well as the strength of the frame itself depend on it. If you choose a cheap option, very soon the window will begin to sag and will not close well.
Manufacturer. The original German systems Rehau, KBE and others are considered a classic option that guarantees excellent quality. However, their full counterparts are now being manufactured in Russia, which are much cheaper. In addition, we must remember that it is more profitable to purchase any products and designs directly from the manufacturer, in this case they cost a much smaller amount.

In addition to the frames themselves, you need to purchase handles, ebbs, window sills, additional accessories, as well as trim that will close the mounting seam. Typically, installers offer along with window block full mounting kit. It can be supplemented with anti-burglary fittings, special child locks, a “comb” for ventilation, etc.

Window sill installation

Dust and debris are removed from the opening with the casing already installed, the surface is cleaned. After that, they put the window sill: it is the basis for the window, so you need to mount it as evenly and accurately as possible. To install it, you need to make 8 mm cuts in the window box, the window sill itself is attached to the bottom of the casing or the lower log with self-tapping screws. It is advisable to put special washers under them so that the plastic does not start to crack.

The window sill must be strictly horizontal, so after installation it is checked with a building level. If there are any deviations, plastic or wooden wedges are placed under it.

After mounting the frame, the attachment points of the self-tapping screws will be invisible, they will be completely hidden by the box. The window sill can be not only plastic: it is made from natural or artificial stone, wood, other materials.

Frame assembly

How to insert plastic windows in a wooden house? When everything is finished preparatory work, you can proceed directly to the installation of the window system. The protective film is not removed from it until the very end of the process, this is guaranteed to protect it from damage. A handle is pre-attached to the frame, as shown in the instructions attached by the manufacturers, sashes with double-glazed windows can be removed during installation, it is much easier to work with an empty box.

The installation process is as follows:

In the side posts of the casing and in the side parts of the window, 4 holes are drilled for installing fasteners. The distance from the top and bottom edges to the hole should be 25–30 cm, such an arrangement of the fasteners will ensure an even distribution of the load.
The window frame is placed in the opening, after which it is leveled with building level, plumb and spacer bars. When it takes a perfectly flat position, it is attached to the casing with long self-tapping screws.

Important! Self-tapping screws should not go through the casing and twist into the wall. The block is attached exclusively to the casing, otherwise its installation will be useless, and the plastic block will suffer from shrinkage. The casing is movably connected to the house, and the logs will gradually take their places, while the window frame must be stationary.

Doors with double-glazed windows are placed in the box. It is important to make sure that the frame is not skewed, the sashes open and close freely and clearly.
After all checks, the spacer bars are removed, and the space between the casing and the box is filled with mounting foam. After drying, it will provide an airtight mount and will reliably protect your home from the cold.
The last stage of work is the installation of the ebb: it will divert rain water from the wall and will not allow moisture to enter the house. The ebb is cut off to right size and attached with self-tapping screws. The seams filled with polyurethane foam are closed with decorative platbands.

Knowing how to properly insert double-glazed windows in a wooden house, you can completely glaze the building without resorting to the help of specialists. Plastic window structures correct installation they serve for a long time and perfectly protect the building from the cold, and it is not so difficult to cope with this work.

The thickness of the mounting foam layer should be at least 2 cm, you can not save on it. For greater reliability and tightness of the connection, the space under the window sill can be smeared with a special silicone sealant. This is good additional protection from blowing.

In any case, the mounting foam will have to be closed from sunlight: it collapses under the influence of ultraviolet rays. Carved platbands or decorative shutters will help, which can become an important element of home decoration.

All installation work it is recommended to carry out at positive temperatures. Plastic changes its structure in severe frosts: at -10 and below, it becomes brittle and can be damaged very easily. To avoid unnecessary problems, choose the right time for installation.

Mounting plastic windows blocks requires increased attention to the correctness of the angles, compliance with vertical and horizontal lines. Even a slight misalignment in the future can lead to an increased load on the fittings, which will negatively affect the operation of the entire structure. If the sashes turn out to be skewed, they will begin to creak and close poorly, and the hinges will quickly become unusable.

And once again: the installation of windows cannot be dealt with immediately after the construction of a wooden house, even if it is being built from dried lumber. It will take at least six months for the logs to finally take their places, then the installation will be safe.

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You can find out detailed and extended information on the topic of the article from the book "Wooden Houses", which reflects all the stages of building a house, starting with laying the foundation and ending with the installation of the roof. The price of the book = 77 rubles.

Self-installation of window construction saves money, but improper work only increases costs in the future. For houses made of wood, there is a special technology PVC mounting windows.

Advantages and disadvantages of PVC structures

Installation requires special skills and knowledge from a person, if there are none, then it is better to study the topic in detail. The best fixation system is a thorn-groove, it is this that allows you to avoid deformation when the tree shrinks, which has a negative effect on operational properties window metal-plastic construction. New buildings are more prone to shrinkage, but even older houses can experience shrinkage.

Professionals note that a wooden house sags by an average of 20 mm per year. It is not so easy to determine with the naked eye, but it is very easy according to the window structure.

Rarely, but it happens that there is no deformation for several years, and then, under the influence of the environment, the distortion becomes visible. To prevent this from happening in a wooden house, it is necessary to make a casing before installing the window. This is a very complex and painstaking process, but it cannot be ruled out. If you make the installation, as in brick house, you will need constant adjustment of the fittings in the window structure. At plastic structures there are a lot of advantages, which is why they are in great demand in the market. Among them it is worth highlighting the following:

low costs during operation, since such a window does not need to be painted or treated from insects;
durability of the material, which is resistant to temperature changes environment, it is not affected by ultraviolet, corrosion does not appear and it does not rot;
good frame rigidity;
fire safety;
no cracking or warping.

All these advantages make the window construction suitable for all regions of our country. PVC perfectly copes with the assigned tasks both in the south and in the north. But, like any material, PVC has disadvantages, because it is far from ideal. Among them are the following:

the inability to maintain the required level of humidity in the house, since such structures are completely sealed;
it is impossible to repair such a window if the surface is damaged;
there is always a lot of dust on plastic, as it attracts it with static electricity;
the material has a high coefficient of thermal expansion, so the places where the plastic adjoins the wall are often damaged;
wood has better sound and heat insulation than plastic.

Important nuances

The installation of plastic structures in a wooden house has its own characteristics. It does not matter whether such windows are mounted in a timber or log house, the technology must be strictly observed. When installing a plastic window, it is worth remembering that the shrinkage of the tree causes additional pressure on the frame. This is one of the reasons why it is impossible to do without casing.

In the space between the top bar of the window and the wall, it is not always worth using foam, as it becomes quite stiff when it dries and also creates unnecessary pressure on the structure. In this case, all the benefits of casing are nullified.

If you do not take into account the gap between the frame and the wall, having calculated the wrong dimensions of the window, you will have to increase the opening, since it will not work to install too large a window without negative consequences. After foaming the gaps from the outside, it is better to mount the PSUL tape, it will not only protect against ultraviolet rays, but also from moisture.

Mounting foam, with all its advantages, quickly collapses and loses its properties if it is not protected. Inside the cottage from a bar, this must be done with the help of a vapor barrier, and waterproofing will help outside. Most window distortion occurs when it is not installed level. Fittings in this design fail twice as fast and require replacement.

We must not forget about the cold zone, in which the window begins to freeze from the side of the slopes, and condensation appears inside.

Manufacturers emphasize the tightness of PVC structures and excellent sound insulation as one of the main advantages of windows of this type. In fact, the wooden frame has natural ventilation, so that the humidity level does not increase in the room, the same cannot be said about PVC windows.

During their installation, in order to eliminate the problem with condensate in the future, it is necessary to install ventilation yourself, and if there are no special holes, you will have to try hard.

The supply valves, which are special profiles installed on a plastic window, greatly simplify the situation.

You can't help but be pleased with the ease of installation. The user will be required to remove the seal already present in the window structure and place the valve on the sash. It is easy to fix it with self-tapping screws, but you will need to think over the exhaust hole, otherwise there will be no sense from the system.

No one will be happy that companies that install plastic structures in a wooden house do not guarantee their work, because they cannot fully predict the behavior of PVC. Even if you follow all the rules and requirements, there is no guarantee that after a few years of operation the window will not stop working.

Casing manufacturing

Only the casing protects the window structure in the log house from distortions, bends and other kinds of deformations. Casing boards must be dry and strong, otherwise they will not be able to complete the task. For this, a board is suitable, the thickness of which cannot be less than 5 cm or a bar 15x10 cm. The thickness of the element is always equal to the thickness that the wall has.

The rules for building in an old wooden house do not change. The situation is quite different with frame structures, since they do not shrink. Such houses are already being created with openings for windows and doors, they have the necessary rigidity for installation. Does not shrink and a log house that has stood for more than ten years.

Casing can be done different ways, such as:

thorn-monolith;
mortgage beam;
into the deck.

The most reliable of the three options is the last, but it is also considered the most time-consuming. For those who do not have enough skills and abilities, it is recommended to do the casing using the second method. It is necessary to make furrows in the middle of the window opening, vertical to each other with dimensions of 5x5 cm. As an assistant, you can use circular saw, chainsaw, ax and even a chisel.

Before driving a beam into a groove, it must be wrapped in lnovatin. The seal will be between the wall and the element, but at the same time it should slightly go into the window opening.

An edged board is laid on the bar and fixed with self-tapping screws from above and below. Two bolts are sufficient in each case. Before this, it is worth drilling a recess a little larger than the diameter of the cap. If a spike-monolith is used, then the T-shaped beam is cut out in advance, and then installed in the existing groove, after which it is fixed with self-tapping screws to ensure reliable fastening.

Elements of the window structure, located vertically, should be at a distance of 8 cm from the top of the window opening. That is, a five-centimeter beam laid on the upper jamb should be at a distance of 3 cm from the wall. It is this distance that is taken as the shrinkage gap.

The upper bar of the window should not hang out in the grooves, enter only with effort. The final fastening is made with self-tapping screws, which are driven in at an angle. The final work at this stage can be considered the installation of insulation. The gap is closed with mounting foam, which can be laid in one or more steps. If it is necessary to apply the composition twice, then you should wait ten minutes until the first layer hardens. In hot weather, the foam must be moistened with water from a spray bottle.

The material is quickly destroyed under the influence of the sun and other weather conditions, therefore, with inside it is covered with a vapor barrier, and a windproof membrane is used outside.

It is forbidden to use a vapor barrier on both sides, because then moisture will accumulate under it, and it contributes to the formation of mold.

Mounting

You can install the window structure with your own hands, insert the structure into a box, put a window sill, make slopes, but it is better to study the technology first so as not to spoil everything. The main tools you will need are:

level;
mounting foam;
screwdriver;
drill;
spray;
key to adjust windows;
chisel;
bolts;
spacer wedges.

It is easier to install windows with a partner as not everything can be done by yourself. It should be understood that the double-glazed window has an impressive weight and it is impossible to hold it alone while carrying out work. Before installation, it is better to check the measurements taken, to determine the presence of gaps. For foaming, 5 cm should remain on top, 3 cm on the sides, and 4 cm at the installation site of the window sill.

The wrong tie-in in a wooden village house will cause many problems in the future.

Before installation, it is imperative to purchase special fasteners from a hardware store, which are metal plates with holes made. Professionals advise using them, stipulating this requirement by the fact that the use of self-tapping screws that penetrate the frame completely deprives it of tightness, and, accordingly, reduces the level of thermal insulation.

The window is installed only according to the level and nothing else, distortions threaten to quickly damage the plastic product and break the fittings. Be sure to remove the sash from the window, thereby reducing the weight of the frame at the time of work. The insert should be located evenly, fastened only to the elements dictated by the standard. When foaming the gaps, you can prevent their displacement by placing bars under the frame, and then they are removed.

It is important to choose the location of the screws correctly, it is strictly forbidden to screw in at the location of the ridge.

okosyachka

The pigtail is assembled after preparing the window opening. The upper part is cut out of a 15x4 cm board and grooves are created through which it will be attached to the ridge. This part of the opening is located on top, it must be even, not have kinks, otherwise there will be difficulties with the installation of the plastic structure.

The ledge, which plays the role of a crest, is covered with rolled tow, and then a gun carriage is put on - a prepared wooden element with a groove cut out. This is done in order to improve thermal insulation and get rid of creaking. The upper part of the pigtail must be screwed to this element with self-tapping screws, but in such a way as not to affect the comb.

double glazing

Double-glazed windows are delivered to the installation site assembled, they must be disassembled before installation, this is the only way to reduce the weight of the structure. Using a special key, it is necessary to remove the upper pins that hold the sash open.

After that, the handle turns and in the open state the sash is easily removed from the lower mount, but it is worth remembering that this is the heaviest part of the structure.

To knock out the glazing beads and remove the double-glazed window, you must use a spatula or a hammer and a knife. Gently pushing the element away, you should simply remove it from the frame. The short sides can be slightly pry from the corner and pulled.

Experts advise immediately removing the protective film from the outside of the window structure before it sticks to the surface, reacting with plastic under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. Then it will be almost impossible to tear it off. It is necessary to drill holes for the pins, which should be located at a distance of no more than 20 cm from the corner, and no more than 70 cm from each other.

Plastic windows can reduce heating costs, since the hermetic design prevents the formation of drafts. It is impossible not to note the aesthetic appeal of such products, cost savings on maintenance. But plastic windows will meet the requirements only if the installation was done correctly.

Self-installation of PVC structures in a wooden house has some difficulties, which is why it should be done in accordance with the instructions of specialists. The time of year does not affect the installation process in any way. Availability modern technologies allows you to work with the same success in summer and winter, when a polyurethane frost-resistant sealant is used.

Many users are unhappy with the accumulation of condensate and say that moisture is constantly accumulating on the inside. This can be avoided by simply ventilating the room or installing exhaust devices that are of high quality. ventilation system. In cold weather, you can immediately determine the presence of poor sealing, the condensate that appears will indicate places where it is necessary to foam more strongly.

If the installation will be carried out by workers, you should make sure that the installation of plastic windows is carried out according to established standards, then in the future you will not have to face unpleasant surprises. A professional installer will not work when sub-zero temperature air.