Key indicators and adjustment data. Capacities and rates Oil system centrifuge gas 53

Part 2

Continuation. See the beginning of the article here: part 1

Ignition distributor and oil pump drive

Ignition distributor drive engine ZMZ-53-11 and the oil pump consists of housing 1 (Fig. 7), into which two bushings made of sheet bronze are pressed. Roller 2 rotates in the bushings, at one end of which there is a slot for the shank of the ignition distributor roller. The slot is offset relative to the axis of the roller, so that the distributor can be installed in only one position. A guide sleeve is pressed onto this end of the drive shaft and secured with a pin.

Rice. 7. The drive of the ignition distributor and the oil pump of the ZMZ-53-11 engine of the GA3-53-12 car: 1 - drive housing, 2 - drive shaft, 3 and 4 - thrust washers, 5 - driven gear, 6 - spring ring, 7 - retaining ring, 8 - oil pump drive shaft, 9 - pin

At the lower end of the roller, the driven gear 5 is pinned. The drive gear is located on the camshaft.

Between the end face of the drive housing and the driven gear, two thrust washers are installed, steel 3 and aluminum alloy 4.

At the bottom end of the distributor drive shaft there is a hexagonal hole into which the oil pump drive hexagonal shaft enters. The lower end of the hexagonal shaft freely enters the hexagonal hole in the end of the oil pump shaft.

The drive housing is installed on the block through a paronite gasket and fastened with a special plug. In the upper part of the housing there is a tide with a threaded hole for mounting the ignition distributor.

pressure reducing valve serves to maintain a certain oil pressure in the system. It is located in the oil pump cover. Oil pressure acts on the end of plunger 6 (Fig. 8), and the plunger, overcoming the force of spring 3, moves. When the plunger opens the bypass hole 7, excess oil is bypassed through the hole into the suction cavity of the oil pump. With a further increase in the amount of oil supplied by the pump, which occurs with an increase in the engine speed, the plunger compresses the spring even more and the flow area of ​​the drain hole increases. As the engine wears, the oil flow through the bearings increases, the pressure in the system is maintained at about the same level, but the amount of oil drained through the pressure reducing valve decreases.

Rice. 8. Reducing valve of the ZMZ-53-11 engine of the GA3-53-12 car: 1 - valve plug, 2 - plug gasket, 3 - spring, 4 - oil pump cover, 5 - relief port, 6 - plunger, 7 - bypass port

Oil seeps into the cavity behind the plunger. So that it does not interfere with the movement of the plunger, an unloading hole 5 is made in the valve.

The relief valve cannot be adjusted.

The warning light on the instrument panel comes on to indicate that the oil pressure in the engine has dropped.

Fire of a control bulb on a small frequency of rotation of idling is allowed. If the engine lubrication system is working properly, the light goes out when the crankshaft speed increases.

Oil filter full flow (fig. 9) is mounted on a spacer on the front of the intake pipe. Oil is supplied to the filter from the oil pump through a channel in the block and a special tube. The filter consists of a housing made of two parts 1 and 14, a rod 12, a tube 6 and a filter element 5. A bypass valve is located in the filter spacer 16, which, when the filter element is clogged, passes oil in addition to the filter into the oil line.

Rice. 9. Oil filter of the ZMZ-53-11 engine of the GA3-53-12 car: 1 - filter housing (upper part); 2 - spring; 3 - support washer; 4 - sealing ring; 5 - filter element; 6 - filter housing tube; 7 - bypass valve plug; 8 - filter housing gasket; 9 - bypass valve gasket; 10 - bypass valve spring; 11 - bypass valve ball; 12 - oil filter rod; 13 - filter element gasket; 14 - filter housing (lower part); 15 - top spacer gasket; 16 - filter spacer; 17 - washer; 18 - connecting nut; 19 - sealing gasket; 20 - connecting fitting; 21 - sealing gasket; 22 - sealing ring

Oil radiator engine ZMZ-53-11 consists of six cooling tubes with cooling plates soldered to them. The radiator tubes are arranged in one row. The cooling tubes are soldered into the bottoms of the radiator tanks, to which the oil supply and drain pipes are soldered. The connection of the radiator with the engine is carried out by rubber rods. A safety valve and a radiator shut-off cock are installed on the inlet line of the oil cooler. When driving in difficult conditions (mud, off-road, etc.), as well as at an ambient temperature above 20 ° C, it is necessary to turn on the oil cooler, while the handle of the shut-off valve must be directed along the axis of the valve.

Safety valve. The safety valve consists of a body 5 (Fig. 10), a ball 6, a spring 4 and a plug 3. The safety valve automatically turns off the radiator at low oil pressures and directs all the oil to lubricate the rubbing engine parts. The valve opens at a pressure of 80-90 kPa (0.8-0.9 kgf/cm2). Thus, at low pressures in the oil line, the radiator is turned off, and all the oil goes to lubricate the rubbing parts. If the pressure in the oil line is above 100 kPa (1 kgf/cm2), the valve opens fully and oil enters the radiator.

Rice. 10. Safety valve and faucet of the oil cooler of the ZMZ-53-11 engine of the GA3-53-12 car: 1 - stopcock, 2 - valve plug gasket, 3 - valve plug, 4 - valve spring, 5 - valve body, 6 - valve ball, 7 - cylinder block

Caring for the lubrication system of the ZMZ-53-11 engine.

Care of the lubrication system consists in daily checking the oil level in the crankcase, replacing the used oil in the crankcase, changing the filter element and periodically checking the pressure in the lubrication system with a control pressure gauge.

Checking the oil pressure is as follows. Instead of the emergency oil pressure sensor, a control pressure gauge is installed and the actual oil pressure in the system is determined from it.

Replacing the oil filter with a GAZ 53 is considered a fairly simple procedure. The car owner can do it on his own with basic technical skills and some tools. Taking into account the specifics of the purification system, it is necessary to change the filter element every time with an oil change.

Oil filter replacement timing and how to choose it

An urgent issue in replacing the oil filter with a GAZ 53 is the frequency of the procedure. In this aspect, they are guided by a total indicator of 15 thousand kilometers. If the operating conditions are interpreted as severe, this period is reduced to 10 thousand km.

The filter in the car engine is changed along with the oil, so the main indicator indicating the need for replacement is the state of the lubricating fluid. Discoloration, the appearance of impurities and sediment, a burnt smell - all this indicates an expired lubricant.

Some car owners identify other signs: extraneous noise in the engine, vibrations, shocks, malfunctions. However, experts do not recommend waiting for these factors to appear - usually they already indicate the consequences of an untimely oil and filter change.

In order to avoid costly repairs to engine components, it is recommended to replace the oil filter and lubricant every year. The importance of regular preventive checks is also emphasized.

The main focus is on measuring the oil level, especially after a recent change. The current level in the normal and heated state should not go beyond the marks indicated on the dipstick.

Preparation for replacement and necessary tools

Preparatory process oil filter replacement in GAZ 53 is conditionally divided into three main aspects:

• purchase of new components and consumables;
• choosing a flat place to work;
• engine warm-up.

In the matter of purchases, not only new oil and a filter are distinguished, but also related parts. To do this, the entire system is checked for wear and replacements are purchased for faulty connections.

Particular attention is paid to gaskets, seals, fasteners. It is recommended to purchase such parts only from official suppliers. When buying, pay attention to the article numbers of the originals and the recommendations of the manufacturer.

To drain and fill the lubricant, the car owner will need to park the car on level ground. If possible, a repair pit or overpass is used to work with the oil filter. In the absence of them, you will need a powerful jack and supports.

Warming up the engine is needed for better circulation of the lubricant. However, given this factor, attention should be paid to safety precautions. To prevent thermal and chemical burns, it is recommended to use overalls and rubber gloves.

In the context of such regulations, to replace the oil filter with a GAZ 53, you will need the following equipment:

• a set of screwdrivers and wrenches, a gate with nozzles, a probe, pliers;
• overalls and gloves, clean rags or a lint-free rag;
• container for collecting used lubricant;
• new oil, filling funnel;
• a new oil filter, gaskets, parts and other accessories to replace faulty connections.

The procedure for replacing the filter element is not considered difficult, it takes 30-40 minutes, taking into account the oil drain and engine warm-up. However, the driver requires certain experience and knowledge of the system, if necessary, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the technical documentation.

Oil filter change process

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the oil filter with a GAZ 53:

• after warming up the engine in the engine compartment of the car, the filler neck is uncorked;
• at the bottom of the machine, remove the engine protection, if any;
• a container for used grease is placed under the drain, the plug is carefully unscrewed;
• while the liquid is draining, check the condition of the plug, it is recommended to change the washer in any case;
• after draining, the container is moved under the filter, unscrewed by hand, if it doesn’t work out, they use a special tool;
• carefully disassemble the oil filter, it is recommended to remember the procedure for removing parts and the cartridge;
• all components and the casing are cleaned of grease residues, a new filter element is installed, the sealing gums are changed and lubricated;
• then the filter is assembled in the reverse order and screwed into place, during installation, the rubber bands are monitored - they should not come out of the grooves intended for them;
• the system is brought back to its original form, clogging the drain and checking the tightness of the connections;
• new oil is poured into the filler neck in a volume equivalent to the drained amount of used lubricant;
• the engine is warmed up for 10-15 minutes until the lubricant fills all the mechanisms involved.

After warming up, check the oil level, as well as the entire system for loose connections and leaks. A similar check is recommended to be done after the first days of operation of the car.

Also during this period, the state of the lubricating fluid is monitored. If it quickly changed color or a precipitate appeared, the problem is in the quality of the product or in the internal state of the mechanisms. If possible, additional diagnostics are carried out by specialists, in the future it may be necessary not only to replace the oil filter, but also to fully repair it.

Differences in replacing the oil filter in other GAZ models

For some car owners, the issue of replacing the oil filter with a GAZ 66 and other models of this brand of cars becomes relevant. Experts emphasize that the general procedure is preserved for all machines.

Taking into account this factor, the replacement of the oil filter with a GAZ 3307 is carried out according to the same algorithm as in the GAZ 53. The main differences are associated with the assembly of the car and the location of the nodes. However, since these aspects may vary within the same model range, the emphasis is on familiarity with the technical documentation and the experience of the car owner.

Also, among the nuances of the general procedure, the articles of consumables are distinguished. Despite the interchangeability of some components, it is recommended to check the technical parameters of the parts before purchasing.

Engine lubrication system combined: under pressure and spraying.

1. oil radiator
2. rocker shaft cavity
3. channel in the block head
4. oil filter
5. channel in block
6. main oil line
7. hole in the distributor housing
8. cavity
9. oil pump
10. oil pump pressure reducing valve
11. fourth camshaft journal
12. oil receiver
13. safety valve
14. oil cooler tap
15. second camshaft journal

Through the oil receiver, the oil is sucked in by the oil pump and, after passing through the filter, is fed into the oil line. The pump has a relief valve. A safety valve is installed in the filter spacer, which allows oil to pass into the line in addition to the filter if its resistance is excessively high (clogging, starting a cold engine). The crankshaft main and connecting rod bearings, camshaft bearings, camshaft thrust flange, rocker arm bushings and upper rod ends are lubricated under pressure.

To the heads of the block for lubricating the bushings of the rocker arms and the upper tips of the rods, oil is supplied in a pulsating flow from the second 15 (to the right head) and from the fourth 11 (to the left head) camshaft journals through channels 5 in the block and 3 in the head.

Spray lubricates cylinders, connecting rod bushings, piston rings, valves, tappets and camshaft lobes.

The camshaft drive gears are lubricated with oil coming from the oil line through the tube, and the ignition distribution sensor drive and its gears are lubricated with oil coming from cavity 8 located between the fifth camshaft journal and the plug in the block.

It is strictly forbidden to operate if the oil level in the engine crankcase is below the O mark on the rod indicator. It is necessary to constantly maintain the oil level in the engine crankcase between the O and P marks of the pointer, as close as possible to the P mark. To more accurately determine the oil level, start the engine and, after letting it run for 3-4 minutes, stop. Freeze after 10 minutes.

The oil pressure in the engine when the car is moving in direct gear at a speed of 60 km / h must be at least 250 kPa (2.5 kgf / cm 2) with the oil cooler turned off on a well-heated engine.

When starting and warming up a cold engine, the oil pressure can reach 500-550 kPa (5-5.5 kgf / cm 2).

When the oil pressure in the engine drops to 40-80 kPa (0.4-0.8 kgf / cm 2), the emergency oil pressure indicator lights up on the instrument panel.

It is permissible for the signaling device to light up at a low speed of the crankshaft in the idling mode. If the lubrication system is working properly, the indicator will turn off when the speed increases. Lighting up the signaling device at medium and high engine speeds indicates a malfunction, and until it is eliminated, further operation of the vehicle should be stopped.

When the air temperature is above 20 °C, it is necessary to turn on the oil cooler by opening the cock located on the left side of the engine. When the radiator is on, the tap handle is directed along the hose. At lower temperatures, the radiator must be switched off. However, regardless of the air temperature, when driving in particularly difficult conditions, with a heavy load and low speeds, it is also necessary to turn on the oil cooler. Oil enters the radiator through a safety valve. This valve opens at a pressure of about 100 kPa (1.0 kgf / cm 2), and thus the oil circulates through the radiator only if there is a pressure in the oil line greater than 100 kPa (1.0 kgf / cm 2). After passing through the oil cooler, the oil drains into the crankcase.

Each time when adjusting the gap between the valves and rocker arms, as well as during TO-2, it is necessary to check whether oil is supplied to the axes of the rocker arms. To do this, start the engine and make sure that the oil flows out of the hole in the adjusting screw and flows down the rods. If the oil does not go, it is necessary to clean the channels as follows.

From the head, in which oil does not flow to the rocker arm axles, remove the axle with rocker arms and racks as an assembly, unscrew the rocker arm axle mounting pin (on the right head - front, on the left head - rear) and through its hole blow compressed air through the oil supply channels to head, slowly turning the crankshaft until a characteristic sound of air escaping into the oil appears.

In this article, I decided to write about the repair of the GAZ 53 pump. This is not quite a deviation from the main direction on the site, since these repair kits are also suitable for repairing the pump on the UAZ. And yes, the procedure itself is the same.

There are several symptoms that the gas pump 53 needs repair:

1. coolant leak;
2. strong play of the shaft in the bearings;
3. boiling of the coolant after a short engine operation.

If the first two points are more or less clear, then I will explain a little with the last. The GAZ 53 impeller is now mainly made of plastic or textolite and, unlike cast iron, has less strength. The bushing is loosened, and even the blades will break. And this happens after the bearings become loose and the pump impeller gas 53 begins to cling to the housing. An impeller with broken petals does not drive the liquid well, which leads to its rapid boiling.

Tools

In this case, you will need tools not only to disassemble the pump itself, but also to remove it.

• key for 12 - 13;
• key for 17 - 19;
• a hammer;
• pliers.

Gas pump repair 53

After the pump is removed, repair the water pump gas 53 in order to remove the impeller. If it is made of plastic or textolite, it is better to break it. In this case, I didn’t break my head, so I was going to put a new one and just broke it. I had a cast iron pump impeller.

The sleeve from the impeller remained on the shaft

Whoever is going to just change the bearings and the gas pump impeller 53 needs a whole one, then the question of removing it without damaging it is very difficult. If the pump has not been disassembled for a long time, then you can say in advance that it has become attached to the shaft and it is better to prepare by buying an impeller in advance.

Then he heated the shaft with the remains of the impeller with a burner and watered it with water. Don't worry about bearings, you still need to install new ones. The procedure had to be repeated twice.

Remove the retaining ring from the pump housing and knock out the remnants of the shaft with bearings towards the fan. The front water pump bearing 20803-KU (article 20803) will be knocked out together with the shaft, and the water pump bearing (rear) 20703-KU (article 14-1307082-20) will remain and will have to be knocked out separately.

The bearings are closed on one side and must be installed with the closed side facing out. That is, it is clear that the open part will be inside for access to lubricant from the grease fitting.

Most often it is the front bearing that fails.

Clean the water pump housing gas 53 from the remnants of the gasket in advance and, if possible, grind it with an emery disc. Clean the bearing seats and circlip.

We start the assembly with the installation of a shaft with bearings, a pulley with a nut, a repair kit and an impeller for a water pump gas 53.

Be careful when assembling the repair kit (cuffs, springs, seals, etc.). Do not forget to spray the pump through the grease fitting after assembly, otherwise you will forget to do this, the bearings will not work for a long time.

A drop in pressure in the lubrication system can be caused by wear of parts of the GAZ-53 oil pump or bearings of the crankshaft and camshaft. With significant contributions, the pump starts to work noisily.

To identify pump malfunctions, it is removed from the engine and disassembled. But they start disassembling the GAZ-53 oil pump only after checking the condition of the pressure reducing valve, since it can cause incorrect pressure in the oil system (the spring has weakened, the plunger is stuck, etc.).

The pressure reducing valve is located in the cover of the GAZ-53 oil pump. The force of the pressure reducing valve spring when compressed to a length of 40 mm should be in the range of 43.5--48.5 N. Placing washers under the spring is prohibited. The defective spring is replaced with a new one.

To disassemble the GAZ-53 oil pump, unscrew the two fastening nuts and remove the pump from the cylinder block along with the gasket; unscrew the four bolts securing the oil pump cover and remove the cover with the gasket; remove the driven gear of the oil pump from the housing; take out the pump shaft with the drive gear assembly. After disassembling the pump, all its parts are thoroughly washed, dried and inspected.

If wear from the gear is found on the surface of the cover of the GAZ-53 oil pump, then the plane of the cover is polished until the traces of wear are destroyed.

In case of major malfunctions, the pump is replaced with a new one. When repairing, the necessary clearances and tensions in the mating parts must be provided.

Rice. 5. GAZ-53 oil pump roller with drive gear: 1 - shaft; 2 - gear; 3 -- pin

In the case of replacing the roller with a new one, as well as for other types of repairs, keep in mind the following:

• - the distance from the end of the roller with a hexagonal hole to the upper end of the oil pump drive gear should be (42.5 + 0.15) mm;
• - a hole with a diameter of 4 + 0.5 mm, the gear mounting pin on the pump shaft is drilled to a depth of (23 ± 0.5) mm at a distance of 20 mm from the end of the gear (Fig. 5). The protrusion of the pin above the plane of the cavity of the tooth is not allowed;
• - when pressing out the axis of the driven gear from the pump housing, the housing is heated to a temperature of 100--120 ° C;
• - to press the axle into the pump housing, the housing is heated to a temperature of 160--175 °C, and the axle is cooled in dry ice to a temperature of - 70 °C;
• - when pressing the axle of the driven gear into the housing, press the axle until it stops (Fig. 6).

Rice. 6. GAZ-53 oil pump housing with driven gear axle assembly: 1 -- housing; 2 -- axis

To assemble the GAZ-53 oil pump, install the roller assembly with the drive gear into the oil pump housing; install the driven gear on the axle in the pump housing; an oil pump cover with a gasket is placed on the body; fix the cover on the pump housing with four bolts.

When assembling the GAZ-53 oil pump, they always change the paronite or cardboard cover gasket (their thickness is 0.3 mm). The use of shellac or other sealing agents, as well as increasing the thickness of the gasket, is unacceptable, as this reduces the performance of the pump.

Before installing the GAZ-53 oil pump on the engine, it must be filled with oil, since a dry pump at the very beginning of engine operation will not supply oil to rubbing surfaces, which will lead to their scuffing and failure.

When disassembling the drive of the GAZ-53 ignition distributor, remove the spring ring and take out the safety pin, take out the hexagonal shaft of the oil pump drive, remove the retaining ring and gear from the shaft, remove the thrust washers and remove the shaft from the distributor drive housing.

To assemble the GAZ-53 ignition distributor drive, before assembly, all drive parts are blown with compressed air and wiped with clean napkins.

The roller assembly is lubricated with clean engine oil, inserted into the distributor drive housing and tested for ease of rotation by hand. Thrust washers are installed on the roller, first steel 3, then aluminum alloy 4.

Install the gear on the drive shaft. A hexagonal oil pump drive shaft is inserted into the hexagonal hole at the end of the GAZ-53 distributor drive shaft, a pin is installed in a hole with a diameter of 3.5 mm, a spring ring is installed in the groove on the gear hub, and a locking ring is inserted into the groove of the drive shaft.

Check the ease of rotation of the roller by hand, the gap between the thrust washer and the end of the drive gear, which should be 0.15--0.40 mm; displacement of the middle of the cavity of the teeth of the distributor drive gear relative to the axis of the groove of the roller - permissible deviation ± 2 °.С