How to build a shed shed. Do-it-yourself barn with a shed roof

It is well known that it is almost impossible to live without a barn in the country, since there is always a need to store various tools, building materials for the period of construction country house, inventory collected at the harvest site and much more. At the same time, the most popular format of such a structure is 3x6 m, and the most common architectural solution is a wooden building with a pitched roof.

Site selection and design

The barn is definitely an auxiliary building, therefore, during its construction, architectural delights are inappropriate, and it is not necessary that it somehow stand out in the overall landscape design.

Its most rational placement will be either its extension directly to country house, or the construction of such a barn somewhere on the edge of the site. The place for its construction should be convenient, and the construction site is best organized where the soil is least suitable for planting.

A prerequisite should be the availability of a convenient entrance and approach to such a utility room, and it should be located from the place of the main summer cottage work in such a way that carrying tools, garden equipment and other massive items into it is accompanied by the least physical costs.

Any construction, even not very complex, should begin with a project. Dealing with such a question to professionals is quite expensive and impractical, but handwritten drawings and sketches will be very useful. Especially for calculating the amount of material and as a basis for technical solutions during construction, such a scheme is simply necessary.

Hiring professional builders for this work is also expensive and unreasonable, because such work, in essence, can be done by every man who owns minimum set building skills. Therefore, the construction of the barn must be done by hand.

Main material

The most budgetary and technological option would be the construction of such a shed from OSB boards. This abbreviation stands for oriented strand board. The multilayer material consists of 3-4 sheets. It is made of aspen wood shavings glued together with resins with the addition of boric acid and synthetic wax filler.

Such slabs are used for wall cladding, as a removable formwork for concreting, continuous roofing, flooring and various supporting structural elements type of I-beams.

This material has significant mechanical rigidity and a high level of sound absorption. It is distinguished by its ability to withstand snow loads and wind sail. All these qualities make it possible to use OSB-plates as a basis for various roofing materials.

frame barn

After marking, clearing and leveling the construction site, it is necessary to equip the foundation. Most simple solution it will be made from foundation blocks laid out along the perimeter of the structure. You can build a columnar foundation. For this purpose, holes are dug, and a pillow is laid on their bottom for the installation of finished blocks in a vertical position.

Columns can be made of concrete. They should be deepened by 0.4-0.5 m. Having marked the outline of the structure on the tape measure, they drive in pegs in the corners of the site and pull a rope between these stakes, after which they mark places for installing pillars.

Holes for them are dug with a shovel, or holes are made in the ground with a drill. Formwork is installed on top, rising 0.2-0.3 m above the surface. Then a gravel-sand cushion is arranged, reinforcement is constructed and pouring is performed.

Another option is a strip foundation made of concrete poured into the formwork. The disadvantage of this method is a very long wait for shrinkage and complete setting. concrete mix. If desired, you can not be limited to a rectangular structure, but build a barn with a veranda, observing the overall dimensions of the building 6 x 3 m.

After the work on the base is completed, assembly is performed bottom strapping and treatment with an antiseptic composition. A floor made of OSB or edged boards is laid on this strapping. The first frame rack is also installed here. It is fixed with a steel corner. To enhance the rigidity of the structure, a temporary strut is attached to the strapping.

After that, an OSB sheet is attached to the base and to the first rack. To the bottom of the frame, the sheets should be fastened with an indent of 5 cm. For this purpose, a bar is attached to the bottom trim, on which the OSB sheet is supported. This sheet is fixed by transferring this control bar further.

There, on the site, the upper timber trim is assembled, after which the entire structure is placed on racks and fixed, and then the truss structure is mounted, the crate is attached, and the shed is covered with corrugated board or some other roofing material.

Roof

Its construction is started at the end of the assembly of the frame. In this case, it is necessary to calculate the length of the rafters. For this purpose, the length of the double-sided overhangs, equal to 40–50 cm, is added to the distance between the walls.

Then proceed to the manufacture of the main rafter leg. To do this, a fragment of the required length is cut off from the board, a place is tried on and outlined for the fastening recesses, and the required number of rafters is made.

Rafter legs are mounted to the frame and connected to one another with a tight thread.

The installation of the remaining truss elements is carried out at a previously marked level. They are fixed with nails or a corner.

The waterproofing is fastened with a stapler with an overlap of 15 cm between the edges of the strip.

Then follows the crate device, cutting roofing material and installing it on a farm building.

It should be borne in mind that the step between the individual rafters is 60–80 cm. Therefore, eight rafter legs are required for a 3x6 m barn.

The final stage is the painting of the structure, the manufacture of shelves, the supply of electricity and the manufacture of steps.

Thus, the construction of such a simple shed on its own is quite a feasible task. The only thing to keep in mind is the legally required setbacks from neighboring properties by 3 m and 5 m from the nearest road.

How to build a pitched roof with your own hands, see the following video.

A barn is truly necessary for any country or personal plot economic building. It is easy to build it yourself in the shortest possible time. With our advice, this process will pass with a bang!

Materials for building a barn - looking for inexpensive and durable

The building we are interested in is in most cases used to store a variety of household equipment, building materials, working tools and other trifles. In fact, the barn performs a strictly utilitarian function. For this reason, as a rule, no special requirements are put forward for its appearance. For the owner of a suburban area, it is much more important to build a barn quickly and cheaply. AND modern technologies allow you to complete all construction work in a matter of weeks, and even days.

Note that in some cases you want to give your barn an attractive look that matches the style and finish of the residential building, harmoniously fit it into the existing landscape design. This task can also be done with a relatively small cash outlay. It will be necessary simply to choose a skin that has affordable price and at the same time quite accurately repeats the look of expensive finishing materials used for home improvement. For such purposes, siding is ideal. It comes in a variety of textures. You can choose the finish for natural stone, brick, wooden beam and so on.

The simplest and most inexpensive option for building a utility block is considered. It involves the construction of a special skeleton from metal or wooden elements and its subsequent outer skin with one or another material. With a competent approach to business and the choice of a beautiful finish, a frame barn can become a real decoration of a suburban area. It is also important that such a structure can always be transformed, repaired. To do this, you will only need to change the skin without touching the frame itself.

Buildings made of timber and boards are also popular. They also require the construction of a frame (wooden) frame, which is then sheathed with wood products. Such structures can be placed on wide bars or on special pallets, using them instead of a standard foundation. And finishing is allowed to be done with the most inexpensive board - unedged (popularly called croaker). The disadvantage of such buildings is fragility. They are operated no more than 5-6 years. Then they have to be rebuilt.

Durable outbuildings require high construction costs. If you need a fireproof and most reliable barn in operation, build it out of brick. Such a structure can be used for breeding birds, animals, for arranging a full-fledged bathroom or shower. Brick structures are installed on solid foundations and serve for decades. Brick can be replaced with foam blocks that are in demand these days. They are easier to work with, they are inexpensive, have high thermal insulation characteristics. Is it true, appearance foam blocks are not the best - grey colour it is difficult to call it presentable. The problem is solved simply - by finishing the walls of the building decorative plaster or siding.

Frame construction - the best option for self-construction

In the vast majority of cases, home craftsmen decide to build framed wooden hozbloks in the country. This is quite logical. The construction turns out to be inexpensive and at the same time durable, has a quite elegant appearance. All work is done without problems by hand, and the construction itself is going quickly. Standard sizes such sheds - 3x6 m. We recommend making the roof of the simplest frame structure single-pitched. Its design is simple and understandable to anyone who has minimal experience in doing construction work on their own.

We will describe the process of erecting a 3x6 m household building with a pitched roof in our article. To begin with, we give a list of building materials necessary for the construction of a building of this type. Immediately determine the amount of required materials. To do this, draw up a drawing of the barn and its roof. Then we will know exactly how many boards, bars and other products we need. We buy the following materials:

• Six bars 10x10 cm 6 m each and eight 3 each. These products will go to the lower and upper strapping.
• Nine vertical pillars-supports of the already indicated section, 2.5 m each, plus two more for arranging the doorway.
• Two dozen boards 4x15 cm. They are necessary for the construction of the floor. You can immediately buy OSB boards. These products are ideal for arranging a fine floor base.
• Four boards 5x10 cm, 4 m each. We use them for the manufacture of rafters.
• Half a cube of boards 2.2x10 cm - material for the crate.
• Six edged boards 2.5x10 cm, 3 m each. They are installed at the junctions of the walls of the shed and its truss system. In common parlance, such boards are called wind boards.
• OSB or chipboard, wood fiber boards for the construction of a rough ceiling. Instead of these products, it is allowed to use plywood sheets (multilayer).

All boards and bars are necessarily treated with an antiseptic. And when choosing lumber, we pay attention to the fact that they do not have areas with blue, large knots, places eaten by woodworm insects, and other clearly visible defects. An important point. The slope of the roof of the described outbuildings is performed in different ways. We can cut to the required length vertical supports of the same size installed from the back of the shed, or build up the front posts using wooden blocks 5x5 cm. Suitable option choose yourself. In any case, the result will be identical - the required slope will be provided.

We will also purchase hardware in advance, without which it is problematic to build a utility block. Here we take into account the following. If we will connect the structural elements "butt-to-butt", we will need steel strips and corners. But fastenings of the "paw" type are provided with nails. At the corners of the frame, the bars are fixed with metal plates (they have the shape of the letter G). Additionally, we purchase screws,.

We choose a place and make a foundation - a reliable foundation for construction

The selection of a site for the construction of an economic structure is a rather important stage of the planned event. Experts advise to place the barn so that it does not spoil the view of the yard (plot). The best place is behind the house. It is also important to ensure free access to the building being erected, since you will store a variety of items in it (including quite large ones). One more piece of advice. Try to find a plot for a farm building on some (at least a small) hill. Then you can not be afraid that during a flood or heavy rainfall, a barn built with your own hands will flood with water.

Having decided on the place, we proceed to the construction of a reliable foundation for the structure. The foundation can be made by anyone - slab, pile, tape. It is most rational to equip the last of these. The strip foundation is characterized by a high level of strength and reliability. It raises the floor of the building above the ground by 0.4–0.5 m, it is easily poured without the involvement of specialists. The phased arrangement of the tape base is performed as follows:

1. 1. Using a thin cord and pegs, we mark the site.
2. 2. A swarm of a 0.3-meter-wide pit with a depth of 0.4–0.5 m.
3. 3. We clear the bottom of the trench, level it well.
4. 4. Pour sand into the ditch, sprinkle it with water, ram.
5. 5. We lay a film of polyethylene on a layer of sand.
6. 6. We mount a wooden formwork along the edge of the prepared ditch. Its height is calculated taking into account the dimensions of the barn basement. We strengthen the walls of the formwork structure with spacers. If this is not done, when pouring concrete, there is a chance that the boards will move apart.
7. 7. We knit the reinforcing cage (metal bars) with wire and install it in the pit.
8. 8. Pour concrete. We recommend using a dry mix (sold dry in building stores, diluted with water) or a ready-made solution (ordering a concrete truck). You can mix the composition yourself, using sand, gravel and cement of the 250th grade, if you know all the proportions.

Concrete must be poured in dry weather. It is desirable to apply the entire volume of the solution in one session. If you fill the foundation in parts, with noticeable interruptions in work, air voids are guaranteed to appear in the base. They will significantly reduce the strength and reliability of the finished structure.

The concrete mixture hardens within 20-28 days. After this time, you can remove the formwork structure and continue work. We lay on concrete base waterproofing (no need to spend money on newfangled moisture protectors, we use ordinary roofing material). We mount 2–3 rows of brickwork on it according to the standard method, which involves dressing individual products. Further along the perimeter of the structure, we lay the bars (wood) every 140–150 cm. These elements are needed for mounting the lower trim on them.

Brick laying is carried out according to the level. The horizontality of the structure must be strictly observed, otherwise the basement part erected at this stage will not be able to become a reliable support for the frame economic structure. After installing the last row, we clean off the excess mortar from the masonry, level the seams, wait 2–3 days for the concrete to harden.

Frame assembly - a sequence of actions for dummies builders

We lay two layers of sheets of roofing material on the frozen basement. We take a beam of 10x10 cm and begin the installation of the lower trim. At the corners of its joints we perform "in the paw". We cut grooves in the bars (at the ends). The depth of the latter is half the thickness of the wooden blank, the length is 10 cm. With such dimensions of the recess, we will get a perfectly even angle of the connected elements. For embedded products brickwork the strapping is fixed with nails. Important! Fasteners are driven in at an angle (obliquely). In this case, the horizontal laying of the strapping is checked by the level after each nail.

Now we equip the floor base of the barn. We use logs (boards 5x10 cm), install them every 0.5–0.6 m on the lower beam, on the edge and fix them with nails. We immediately recommend making a rough floor from old lumber or plywood sheets. So it will be easier for us to carry out subsequent work. After completion of construction, the rough base is easily dismantled or covered with other finishing materials.

Next, we attach a beam of 10x10 cm to the lower trim (on the side). We fix it with 15 cm nails or L-shaped metal fasteners. On the beam fixed in this way, we install vertical racks every 150–200 cm. Additionally, we fix the supports with the help of jibs (boards 4x10 cm), mounted diagonally. After we put the top beam, these elements are dismantled. There are no problems with this operation.

We need to figure out the rules for installing vertical racks for doors that will lead to the barn. Everything is simple here. If door structure will be in the middle, we mount two vertical supports. There is another economical option. We plan to install a one-way door. Then the function of one of the racks will be performed by a vertical corner beam. So, it will be necessary to mount only one support for the door. Now we install the timber of the upper trim by analogy with the lower one and proceed to the construction of the roof.

Shed roof - decent quality with apparent simplicity

We build the hozblok further. Since we chose a lean-to roof structure, we need to build up the front of the barn to obtain a slope within 20–25 °. We have already described how to do this (cutting the rear supports or building up the front ones with bars). After that we set up truss system. We use boards 5x10 cm. We put them on the edge, we hammer in nails with an oblique slaughter (the rafters can also be fixed with iron staples). The length of the rafters is taken such that (on each side of the building) a 40–50 cm overhang of the roof is provided. In our case, the length of the boards is 4 m. You can take products of a slightly shorter length (3.8–3.9 m).

We make a crate on the roof. Its type (solid or with gaps) depends on the material that will be used as a roof covering. If the roof is sheathed with boards, we make the crate sparse. And when installing soft coatings, as well as shingles, it is better to equip continuous construction. Then we lay waterproofing membranes or roofing material on the crate, fix the moisture-proof material and install the selected roofing material.

It remains to give the completed structure a finished look - to sheathe it from the outside with suitable products. Frame sheds are usually finished with a planed board or profiled sheets (budget options) or clapboard. In the latter case, you will need to spend a little more money. The lining will have to be fixed to some kind of base. For example, on 9.5 mm thick OSB-plates. From the inside, finishing the barn can not be done at all. It would be wiser to install shelves and racks in it for storing various things, install electrical outlets, conduct light in order to make the operation of the facility as comfortable as possible.

A frame-type building made of timber and boards with a pitched roof has been erected. You can use! At the same time, remember that every year it is recommended to carefully inspect the barn. If any defects are found (holes in the roof, walls, rotting flooring), they should be immediately eliminated. In this case, the building will serve you for many years.

A personal plot requires the presence of outbuildings for storing gardening equipment, tools, keeping pets or poultry. No one demands architectural sophistication or functional complexity from this structure - everything should be simplified to a minimum, but serve reliably and for a long time. Therefore, a barn with a shed roof is the most popular building among summer residents, since its construction, maintenance and use require minimal cost and time.

The shed roof for the barn was not chosen by chance - this design uses the simplest rafter system - the rafter legs rest on the upper beam of the shed strapping, easier - in the Mauerlat. A simple shed roof on a barn is a classic of country and garden management, where rafter beams are attached to the walls of the barn with different heights.

Wooden shed with pitched roof

Due to the difference in height between the walls, a slope is formed, which serves as the basis for the arrangement of the roof. The slope can also be obtained not by the difference in the height of the walls, but by the following methods:

1. Make a cantilever wooden frame above the barn wall, serving as a support for the ridge beam, on which the upper ends of the rafters will be laid;
2. Make beam trusses in the form of a triangle with a right angle, the long leg of which is attached to the harness, and the rafter serves as the hypotenuse. The slope of a shed roof is made with an angle of ≤80, so the roofing can be equipped with any roofing building materials - rolled, sheet, piece.

If there is a need to make the slope greater, with a slope of 10-250, it is better to take sheets of profiled or smooth metal (profiled sheeting, metal tiles) to cover the roof.

Construction of a shed roof barn step by step

One of the options for the frame of the barn is a box on skids. This mobile structure can always be moved to the desired or more convenient place on the site.

Shed with pitched roof

If a mobile structure is not for your household, then you can build a barn on a shallow reinforced concrete slab or put it on shallow concrete blocks - it depends on the characteristics of the soil under the barn.

The construction process itself consists of the following steps:

• Foundation arrangement: this is a wooden frame with skids made of thick timber with a section of 100 x 100 mm. For the frame, a bar with a section of 50 x 100 mm is used. Inside, the frame is reinforced with a transverse bar with a section of 50 x 100 mm, which is attached to self-tapping screws or nails every 1 m, the joints are duplicated with steel corners;

wooden frame barn

• Floor arrangement. The floor is made of five-layer plywood, OSB or chipboard 16-20 mm thick. After laying the plywood, it is additionally fastened from above with one more timber trim;
• The erection of the front and rear walls of the barn frame. All walls are made of plywood 16-20 mm or planed board 20-25 mm thick. In the right places, window and door openings from a bar with a section of 50 x 100 mm are equipped. In order for the parallels of the ends of the openings to coincide with the slope of the roof, the upper ends of the beams are cut off at an angle of 17.50. Reinforcing racks on the walls of the barn are temporarily fixed with crossbars and braces. After checking the verticality of the racks with a level, they can be attached with corners to the frame. The ends of the remaining racks above the openings are connected by the rear board of the upper trim;
• The construction of the side walls of the barn. The sides have one reinforcing rack in the center of the wall;
• Rafters with a section of 50 x 80 mm for a shed roof are cut according to a template that is made from cutting boards. It is necessary that the angle of the cut of the rafter beam coincides with the angle of the roof;
• Do-it-yourself installation of rafters under the roof should be above the wall beam in order to be attached to it with nails or self-tapping screws;
• The wind board is mounted after wall cladding, its cross section is 25 x 100 m;
• The crate is made of moisture-resistant plywood 12 mm thick;

Arrangement of the roof of a shed roof, floor and walls of the barn

• The waterproofing layer is equipped with a membrane film, roofing material or polyethylene. Roll material is laid along long walls from the bottom up, with overlapping seams by 10-15 cm. So rainwater or the snow won't get inside the barn.
• To lay the roof, use a profiled sheet, plastic or ordinary slate, metal tiles, roofing material, galvanized sheet metal, a board no more than 10-15 mm thick;
• Door and window openings are upholstered with a board with a section of 25 x 100 mm (jamb);
• The last step is hanging doors and installing windows.

Schematic diagram and dimensions of a barn with a pitched roof

If you need to build a barn with your own hands with small size and weight, then it can not be installed on the foundation, but fixed to the ground with reinforcing bars ≈ 500 mm long, hammered into the ground through holes in the frame.

Construction of a stationary barn with a shed roof

A stationary building is a do-it-yourself barn with a shed roof made of brick, cinder block or light grades of cellular concrete (foam concrete, aerated concrete or gas silicate blocks). Even for such a more solid structure, it makes no sense to build a powerful foundation - you can simply lay several powerful reinforced concrete blocks on the ground in several rows. The area for laying blocks is pre-leveled, a sand-gravel cushion is made and rammed.

block foundation

Construction of a brick shed with a shed roof:

1. On the equipped foundation, the corners of the walls are laid out with a height of 4-5 bricks. Then you can lay the walls on a cement-sand mortar. For the floor, wooden logs with a section of 150 x 150 mm in increments of 1 m are laid on the base. Boards or plywood are laid on the logs;
2. For doors and windows, dressing is made of a wooden tarred beam, reinforced concrete puffs or a metal channel;
3. For a shed roof, the back wall of the shed must be lower than the front so that the slope angle is at least 80;
4. An upper trim made of timber with a section of 100 x 100 mm (Mauerlat) is attached to the walls. The timber is attached to the walls by putting it on the reinforcement in advance drilled holes. The reinforcement itself is laid vertically into the wall at the level of 3-4 rows from the top of the wall. Also, the beam can be tied with steel wire embedded in the wall during its construction;
5. A cantilever frame is assembled on the Mauerlat, the upper part of these racks is sawn off at the right angle to get a shed roof;
6. The rafter system is made in the same way as for a wooden shed, according to a template and with appropriate fasteners;
7. A wooden crate is laid on the rafter system, which is protected by a waterproofing layer. Roofing is laid on top of the waterproofing: metal tiles, profiled roofing sheets, etc.
8. The walls of the barn can be sheathed with siding, lining, or plastered;
9. Construction is completed by hanging doors and installing windows. From the inside, the truss system is closed with plywood or boards.

Mauerlat with a grillage for a shed roofRoof slope with truss trusses

Can be applied to any building extraordinary solutions. For a barn with a shed roof, ready-made truss trusses can be considered such a solution - it is fast, safe, accurate and reliable, since the entire structure is assembled on the ground. Also, the finished design can simply be bought.

Ready-made trusses for a pitched roof

If we are building a non-budget barn, then this solution will help not only speed up construction, but also ensure sufficient design accuracy, which means reliability and durability of the roof - after all, it is easier to install ready-made trusses than to make calculations and mount the roof above the ground.

Shed roof from prefabricated trusses

The main advantage of finished truss trusses is manifested in the minimization of lateral loads from the roof on the walls of the barn: expansion forces have a very negative effect on the strength of the bearing walls of any design. When using trusses, lateral loads are distributed and extinguished inside the truss system, so the shed frame itself does not experience any loads.

Another plus of roof trusses is that they are mounted on walls of the same height, which greatly simplifies the entire construction. At the same time, replacing finished farms with home-made ones is not difficult, since all work on the manufacture and assembly of the farm is carried out on the ground. The main thing is to observe a right angle in a triangular farm.

The truss beam serves as the hypotenuse of the rafter triangle, but sometimes the truss is laid on a pre-prepared support. The floor beam in such a shed roof is a long leg of a rectangle, and its short side works as a cantilever frame assembled from the ends of the trusses.

If you increase the angle of inclination of the roof more than 80, then the cost of building materials will increase - timber for the rafter system and roofing. If the angle of inclination is reduced, then the cost of waterproofing will increase, since it will be necessary to lay several layers of a moisture-proof coating, as well as additionally protect complex sections of the roof from rain and snow.

Despite their simple, uncomplicated design, shed roofs are in demand, rational, especially for country housing construction. Roofs with one slope are also widely used for arranging garages, adjoining buildings, and outbuildings. You will learn how to build a pitched roof with your own hands step by step below.

Multi-pitched roof options are complex in design, and a single-pitched roof is quite accessible for do-it-yourself construction, since it is, in fact, a rectangle that is located in one plane and has no bends. On a shed, by the way, you will need much less building materials than any other, it will be more resistant to seasonal manifestations (snow, wind, rain).

Shed roof garage construction Benefits of a pitched roof:

• light weight;
• relatively acceptable total cost;
• affordable, uncomplicated installation process;
• the possibility of using various building materials (roofing, rafters);
• affordable arrangement drainage system, chimneys.

Shed roof chicken coop Despite its simplicity, a shed roof can be very creatively played up in design solutions. The angle of its slope directly depends on the climatic features of the region where you live. If you are used to snowy winters, then the degree of inclination should be greater (so that the snow slides off better), but if your house is located in a windy place, then the slope should be made smaller. For the same reasons, the slope of a shed roof should be directed in the direction opposite to the facade, so that the precipitation "leaves" behind the house.

The roof is shed, erected by hand step by step, it can be ventilated and non-ventilated type. The first option is used for residential buildings, the slope varies from 8 to 25 degrees. In such cases, air exchange is provided by an insulating layer and special openings located on the sides of the roof.

Outbuilding - garage and shed with shed roof The non-ventilated version is often installed in garages, sheds, outbuildings to the house, their slope angle is mostly small - 3-6 degrees.

The calculation of a schematic drawing of a future home begins with determining the required angle of inclination and a suitable covering material for the roof. Most often, for such shed structures, corrugated board, metal profile, roofing material, tile, slate, metal tile or ondulin are used. Soft tiled or ruberoid coating is best suited for very small slopes - from 5 to 10 degrees. Slate with corrugated board is more suitable for "average" indicators of the angle of inclination - from 20 to 30 degrees. For metal tiles, a slope of at least 35 degrees is required.

The choice of roofing material is determined by its ability to interact with atmospheric precipitation and remove them from the surface in a timely manner. For example, snow comes off much easier from slate, corrugated board, tiles.

To build a single-pitched roof step by step with your own hands, you will need a standard set of construction tools, the necessary building materials. Wood materials (lumber) must be of good quality with a maximum moisture content of 22%. All wooden materials it is recommended to pre-treat with antiseptic agents (for example, agents from the Drevoteks series).

In addition to everything, you should have fasteners in stock: crossbars, struts, struts.

A crossbar is a horizontal piece that acts as a support for others. load-bearing structures, it distributes the load of the rafters to other beams.

Spacers - a type of supports that are located in the spans, provide greater stability to the entire structure.

Struts are beams that act as supports for the truss system.

Shed roof extension to the house Shed roof, photo:

You must have:

• wooden beam 100-150 cm in diameter;
• laying boards (thickness at least 5 cm);
• rafter nails;
• thermal insulation materials;
• waterproofing materials;
• construction tape;
• tools (axe, saw, hammer, construction knife, plumb line, screwdriver, tape measure, construction stapler, level).

The rafter system of a shed roof will depend entirely on the size of the future house and building material from which the walls were built. The rafters are always installed on the Mauerlat, if the building is small and the span does not exceed 4.5 meters, then the scheme of the shed roof truss system will be extremely simple. It will consist of the main Mauerlat beam and truss support. If large dimensions of the building are assumed, and the span is more than 6 meters, then installing reinforcing rafter legs with your own hands is simply necessary.

Shed roof truss system diagram Rafters must be installed in accordance with building regulations so that after several years of operation the consequences do not appear. Do not forget about safety rules - install reliable, strong temporary boards on the rafters, on which you will move during the construction process.

Shed roof rafter installations The do-it-yourself workflow includes the following steps:

1. Laying transverse rafters - they are attached to the Mauerlat (this is the basis - what the entire emphasis of the rafter system is on), the distance between the rafters is approximately 60-80 cm. Here you will need large nails (or anchors).
2. A crate is attached to the rafters (it is made of wooden slats 50 by 50 cm), it provides rigidity, the roofing material is laid directly on it. The crate is placed at a right angle.
3. Using a construction stapler, waterproofing material is attached to the crate (ordinary polyethylene film is suitable for this purpose). Fastening is carried out without tension, but with an overlap from the bottom up.
4. The turn of thermal insulation follows (for example: mineral wool, fiberglass, balsam mats).
5. Laying roofing material according to its individual characteristics.

Consider step by step the entire construction process:

1. Since the mauerlat is a support for the entire system, its main function is to ensure that the total weight of the roof is equally distributed evenly on the main load-bearing parts of the structure. For these purposes, you need to choose a beam of at least 10 × 10 cm, which is installed directly on bearing walls. There should be a layer of roofing material between the wall masonry and the timber. The larger the slope angle, the thicker the Mauerlat beam should be. Do-it-yourself installation of the Mauerlat must be taken responsibly, be sure to use the building level (horizontal requirements must be met). The shed roof device involves fastening the timber to the walls with anchor bolts, the distance between them should be about a meter and a half.
2. Now comes the turn of laying the rafter boards, make sure that the length of the board is about half a meter longer than the roof span. The distance between these boards depends on the severity of the covering material, if sheet options are provided, then 150 cm will be enough. If you are going to lay slate or tiles with your own hands, then it is better to choose a step of 100-120 cm. It is best to lay the board upside down - this will give additional strength to the entire structure. The rafters for a shed roof must be cut into the Mauerlat beam along the entire length. When you mark the tie-in points with a pencil (recommended for novice builders), make sure that the future groove is slightly wider than the thickness of the board. The slope of the slot cut is responsible for what the degree of inclination will be.
3. One of the most important stages is the installation of rafters in the grooves. All boards must be installed in the same way, under the same slope. For your convenience, it would be better to initially put two rafters at the beginning and at the end of the wall, and then stretch the twine between them. Thus, you will get an accurate guideline, and the process itself will go much easier. To fasten the timber and rafters, use large nails (from 12 cm or more). The end of the rafter board (legs - a construction term) is attached with one side to the edge of the wall, and the other is fixed with a vertical beam. All rafter legs must be the same in terms of slope, height, direction.
4. If you have big house and the distance between the spans exceeds 4-4.5 meters, it is necessary to install additional supporting beams (struts) under each rafter. Using this construction method, the entire roof, the shed roof truss system as a whole, will be strengthened.
5. Boards are laid step by step on the rafters, and vapor barrier material is placed on them (placed across the rafters). The film does not need to be stretched, but the strips should overlap (10-15 cm). Where the fragments will join, for reliability it is better to use construction tape (glue the strips together).
6. We lay the insulation on the waterproofing film with our own hands. When laying, there should be no cracks, gaps, the thickness of the insulation should be at least 20 cm. This is followed by the turn of the waterproofing layer, but there should be some space between it and the insulation. To provide a gap, small wooden blocks are usually laid between them. The waterproofing layer is attached with a construction stapler.
7. A crate is laid on the resulting “pie”. As mentioned above, slats or bars 50 by 50 are used for its manufacture, they are mounted across the rafters. Arrange as you like - a continuous canvas or at intervals.

   Single pitched roof sheathing After the lathing, the final roofing is laid, its installation is carried out according to individual building features.

Qualitatively laid, do-it-yourself rafters do not bend under a weight of 70-100 kg, if this fact was discovered during the check, then it is necessary to strengthen the frame.

The technology of laying the layers of the "pie" may vary due to certain circumstances, have some additions. Sometimes, for greater reliability, the waterproofing layer is re-placed on top of the insulation. It will not be worse from this, but in all cases special attention should be paid to fastening.

It is best to nail the film to wooden structural elements using flat-head nails or a construction stapler, the step frequency should be 15-20 cm.

One of the most important points is to secure the edges of the waterproofing material. It is brought under the roof overhang, the residual length must be at least 20 cm, after which it is nailed from below or, again, passed with a stapler.

It is best to take a wooden lath and knock it out with appropriate nails (in increments of 10-15 cm) - this is the so-called "folk" method of arranging a pitched roof. Thus, you will be sure that air currents will not penetrate under the waterproofing film, will not cause large-scale damage when strong winds invade.

Errors fixing the edges of a pitched garage roof In the photo above, the edges (overhang) of the roof were not securely fixed. In a strong wind, the metal profile sheet, together with the waterproofing film, was easily thrown aside like a light rag.

Garage, as an extension, under a pitched roof For garages, sheds, bathhouses, gazebos, this type of roof is most convenient. The shed roof construction provides a number of advantages for so-called ancillary structures.

Fastening the truss frame of a shed roof to the wall of the house If we consider the extension step by step, it will become clear that its roof is adjacent to the wall of a residential building. Thus, its rafter system is arranged separately from the house, the lower ends of the rafters are located on the front wall of the extension, but the upper ends are attached to the wall of the building. Here it is very important to ensure the proper connection of the truss frame of the extension and the main wall of the house. It is also undesirable to use too rigid fasteners, because the rate of shrinkage of the house and the attached building can be different. Because of this difference, cracks in the walls can then form.

In this case, it will be most convenient to lay the beams on a timber frame that is adjacent to the wall of the house (attached to the wall), and fill the place (seam) between the timber and the wall with polyurethane sealant. Do-it-yourself roofing material should be laid on the roof of the extension with an overlap, and also wound at the junction under the covering of the house. This is necessary so that later precipitation does not seep through the junction. Usually, a similar roofing material is used on the roof of the house and extension - for aesthetic reasons.

If you decide to build a barn with a shed roof, then arranging the roofing system with your own hands will not differ significantly from the phased construction method described above.

It happens that sheds are built from timber, in such cases the top of the log house acts as a Mauerlat. Otherwise, there are no significant differences in the truss system of shed roofs of different buildings.

A shed roof for a garage is made using a similar method. If the walls of the garage are built of brick, then the edges of the beams, rafter boards are embedded in the niches equipped for this. They are made in advance in the walls and negotiated at the design stages of the building. Wooden fragments are recommended to be wrapped with a waterproofing coating before being buried in these niches. In this case, the interval of the rafters is 60-70 cm. facade wall garage - a high wall, from which there is a slope down to the back of the building, the entrance gate is located in it. The roof should protrude 30-40 cm from the wall, form a small overhang.

Taking into account the above information, it becomes clear that this version of the roof is practical, functional, structurally simple. A shed roof, equipped step by step with your own hands, can withstand powerful wind and snow loads. Such a roof will be warm, due to the small area for air penetration. If you did everything right, then it will faithfully serve you for more than a dozen years.

The first building that appears on a new summer cottage is, of course, a barn, large and roomy. At first, until the bare territory of the dacha is “overgrown” with full-fledged outbuildings, a house, a summer kitchen and a garage, a simple shed with a pitched roof will long remain the only haven for inventory, building materials and country property.

Depending on plans for future development suburban area, the availability of free time and money, there are several ways to solve the problem of an utility room on a suburban area:

• Hire a team and build a capital shed of brick or foam block, with a shed roof and a basement;
• Do-it-yourself pour a concrete foundation for a future building, buy a five-ton railway container and install it in a summer cottage instead of a barn;
• Build an ordinary barn with a shed roof, 3x6 in size, from timber and boards, as in the photo.

Of course, experienced summer residents with experience will not hesitate to vote in favor of the latter option, this is the most balanced and considered decision.

Advice! We don’t immediately build a barn from foam blocks on a “clean” site from the point of view of planning, often household buildings of this type have to be demolished or transferred in favor of a summer house or garage.

In addition, the construction of stone, prefabricated, panel sheds, as well as the purchase of a container, will require an order of magnitude greater capital investment and time than is necessary for a wooden building with a pitched roof and a simple foundation. The main thing is that at a considerable cost, there are no tangible advantages over a shed wooden shed measuring 3x6.

Optimal design of a wooden shed 3x6

The most difficult element of a homemade barn is its roof. Choose a shed roof for your shed, you can't go wrong. Even experienced craftsmen prefer to put shed roofs on sheds, they are not so beautiful, but easier to build and more reliable in operation. Moreover, a shed roof of a barn with your own hands can be done step by step even with minimal construction experience.

The only prerequisite is the correct orientation of the shed roof and the entire shed construction relative to the wind rose in order to reduce the risk of rainwater flowing under the overhang and roof gables:

1. The design of the barn, with dimensions of 3x6 m, with a shed roof is shown in the drawing;
2. The construction is carried out on a simple columnar foundation of 12 pillars. A standard cinder block is used as the material for the pillars, but it is better to cast the pillars from concrete in the formwork;
3. The basis of a shed is a frame made of boards and timber, the dimensions of the building are 3x6 meters, with a ceiling height of 2 m and the highest point of the rafters is 2.7 m;
4. Shed roof is made according to classical scheme, on hanging rafters stuffed with boards and battens flat roof. As a roofing, you can use corrugated board, ondulin, or make a two-layer version of roll material, for example, roofing material.

The construction will turn out to be very simple and light, if you properly assemble the foundation, then a wooden frame box with a pitched roof can easily withstand winds of 18-25 m / s. If there are no strong winds in the area where the barn is planned to be installed, then during the construction of the walls, you can limit yourself to vertical drains from the board and timber, as in the drawing. For open areas, it is recommended to strengthen the vertical bearing supports with side struts, as in the photo.

The same applies to the construction of a pitched roof. For a quiet area, you can build a shed roof without using ceiling beams, but in this case, the upper wall trim and the Mauerlat will need to be supported with additional vertical supports from the timber. For windy terrain, a shed roof must be reinforced with floor beams and supports in the middle part of the rafters.

We build a barn with a shed roof with our own hands

• For the frame, material with a section of 50x150mm - 14 pcs., 25x100 - 23 pcs., 50x100 -19 pcs.;
• For the floor, a board measuring 25x100 mm - 27 pieces;
• For the lathing and roof supports, 43 boards with a section of 25x100 mm are needed.

All joints and connections are made with carpentry black self-tapping screws 50 mm, 70 mm and 110 mm. To reduce the cost of construction, you can use ordinary nails and building corners, but such savings are not always justified.

We make the foundation for a barn 3x6

After choosing the construction site for the barn, it will be necessary to plan and remove soil on a site measuring at least 3x6 m. It makes no sense to make a larger building spot. In order not to pester the vegetation, the cleared space can be covered with salt and sand.

After marking the location of the supports, at the installation points of the pillars we dig 12 holes, 15 cm deep and sized for a standard cinder block. At the bottom of the mini-pits we pour a mixture of crushed stone and sand with a layer of 5 cm, after which we lay out columnar supports from the cinder block on a masonry mortar with the addition of PVA.

Before laying out, you will need to stretch the horizontal cords, along which you can control the height of each support so that the entire supporting surface of the pillars is in the same horizontal plane.

A day later, you can install a strapping beam. All corner joints and T-shaped tie-ins are made with half-cut ends, each connection is reinforced with self-tapping screws screwed into the beam at different angles.

We collect the frame and shed roof

At the next stage, you will need to install the supporting vertical racks, they are highlighted in orange in the drawing. Next, we sew up the floor and lay the rafters of the pitched roof.

We make the central bearing racks from a 50x100 board, for the back wall you will need to cut three racks of 220 mm each, for the front wall - four racks of 250 mm each. We pre-fix each support on the lower trim with one self-tapping screw, then set the exact horizontal position along the building level and additionally fasten it with small half-meter struts, as in the photo.

After all the racks are installed, we strengthen them with additional temporary struts and we carry out the strapping of the upper tier of the frame under the future pitched roof. In order to give the entire shed structure additional rigidity, it is necessary to sew up the floor with a grooved board before starting the assembly of the shed roof elements.

Further, all installed elements, floor boards, rafters, lathing material, side racks, lower and upper trim must be treated with an antiseptic and preservative. During the time that the assembly of the rafters and the roof of the pitched roof will be carried out, the procedure must be repeated twice.

For the upper overhang of a shed roof, the installation of rafters and battens, you will need to fix an additional horizontal Mauerlat beam, as in the diagram.

Washed down the seat on the rafter beam is carried out according to the markup or according to the prepared template. After installing and leveling the position of each beam, it is recommended to fill the space between the beams with short boards, they will fix the rafters from horizontal displacement and at the same time strengthen the base of the shed roof.

Roofing and finishing works

At the final stage, we sew up the rafters of a shed roof with a sheathing board. If bituminous materials are used for the roof of the barn - flexible tiles and roofing material, additional OSB sheets will need to be laid on the boards or the sheathing will be hammered with solid wooden clapboard.

The easiest way to cover a shed roof is with corrugated board. metal surface will withstand any cataclysms that may arise in a summer cottage, and laying and fixing roofing material is much easier and faster than euroslate or roofing material. As a waterproofing, a polyethylene film is laid, the edges of which will be released from under the canopies and nailed to the upper edge wooden walls barn.

Roofing on a shed roof starts from the bottom left sheet, as in the diagram. Each element is joined with the previous one in a row in an overlap of two waves, an overlap of 15-20 cm is made on the bottom sheet. The places of overlap, the lower and upper edges must be pierced with roofing nails with a silicone washer.

On the sides of the roofing cake, wind strips are nailed to protect the shed roof from water leakage and gusts of wind. We nail a similar rail for the installation of a drainage gutter under the lower overhang. We protect the upper overhang of a shed roof with a screen of two wooden planks.

The assembled frame of the barn, as a rule, is not insulated for the winter, so lining, ordinary edged boards or OSB sheet panels can be used as wall lining material. To stuff the cladding, you will need to install additional vertical slats and struts on the walls. The joints and gaps between the OSB boards and the edged board must be blown out with mounting foam, the excess foam must be cut off and be sure to paint over with weather-resistant paint.

Conclusion

The chosen version of the barn with a shed roof, 3x6 m in size, can stand for up to 15 years without repair, subject to a competent choice of protective paint and varnish materials. This design has one indisputable advantage - a shed made of timber with a shed roof can be relatively easily disassembled and moved to a new location after a summer cottage or a new barn made of foam blocks has been built.

Tired of tools scattered all over the place? Nowhere to put a bike and a fishing boat? It's time to finally set aside time and build a comfortable and functional barn right on your site. Moreover, we advise you to build a barn with a shed roof, which is more economical and easier to perform. And for this you will first need to decide on the design of the building, the type of interior lighting and roofing. So, let's figure out how to build a convenient utility block!

The advantage of a shed roof for household buildings

So why single? Such a roof is good because it has the following qualities:

• Low cost of materials used and their availability.
• The simplicity and speed of the construction of such a roof.
• Excellent wind resistance and reliability.

And all those disadvantages that are important in the practice of building private houses no longer matter for the construction of an outbuilding: the lack attic space and unusual appearance. After all, the main advantage of a shed roof for a barn is its low weight.

Typically, the walls of such outbuildings are not made massive or heavy-duty, and it is impractical and unsafe to place a heavy complex roof on them. But the shed roof has a much lower weight, is easier to install and makes it easy to make the resulting gables with wind-transparent - you just need to sheathe them with ordinary polycarbonate. And you don't need any windows.

Types of shed roof structures

A shed roof is the simplest type of roof. She has only two points of support - two walls, with the same or different slope. The shed roof consists of the following elements:

1. Rafter system. This is a set of supporting elements that support the roof slopes.
2. Gables. These are special sections of the walls, which are made in the form of a right-angled triangle and are limited on both sides by slopes and a cornice. As a rule, the gables of shed roofs are laid out from the same material as the walls, but they are often made translucent by inserting small windows or sheathing with polycarbonate.
3. Overhangs. This is the protruding part of the rafter legs, which is extended beyond the perimeter of the structure. It is the overhang that protects the walls from getting wet.
4. Insulation. It is not always used in shed roofs, mainly only in residential premises.
5. Roofing material. This is a topcoat that protects the entire truss system from precipitation.

Here is an understandable three-dimensional model of such a roof:

Step by step building instructions

So, let's get straight to the process!

Step 1. Calculating the angle of the roof and building the walls

After you have calculated the angle of inclination of the future roof, proceed to the calculation of the walls of the barn. Initially, decide how high the wall below will be. Have you chosen? But all other parameters of the roof will now depend on this value.

So, we calculate according to this scheme:

And now about the construction of the highest wall. The fact is that many novice craftsmen make such an unfortunate mistake - they make walls according to ready-made parameters and forget that there is also a Mauerlat. Those. on the last row of bricks or blocks, we will put another beam on which we will attach the rafters. And he gives his height.

Step 2. Making rafters

If you purchased raw wood, be sure to remove the bark from it. The fact is that bark beetle larvae always remain under it, which will eventually develop and wear down the entire roof.

For the manufacture of rafters for a shed roof, we recommend using softwood, better pine and definitely dry. Be sure to pre-treat the rafters with flame retardant and antiseptic to protect against moisture and accidental fire. In total, you will need wood for such materials:

• Mauerlat. It is made of a strong beam with a section of 15x15 cm. It is on it, as on the base, that the shed roof will be attached, and it is the Mauerlat that distributes the load from the truss system. Mount the Mauerlat on anchor bolts or studs with such a pitch that the fasteners coincide with the truss tie-in sections. It is impossible to fasten the Mauerlat less often, but more often it is not worth it, because. this will weaken the beam itself.
• Rafter leg. These are strong, even bars that form slopes. They are attached to load-bearing walls or to the Mauerlat. If the length is not enough, the so-called filly is used - bars for overhang.
• Crate. This is a solid or lattice base on which the roofing material is attached. Solid plywood is made from moisture-resistant sheet plywood, and roofing material, flexible tiles or ondulin are already laid on it. And the lattice crate is made of unedged boards, which are already stuffed perpendicular to the rafters.

In total, you have three options for building a rafter system for a barn, depending on how complex it should be:

The more massive the roofing and the higher the angle of inclination, the more complex the design of such a roof should be.

In practice, everything will look like this:

Shed roof rafters are of three types, depending on how exactly they should transfer the loads from the roof - to the walls and foundation.

So this is:

• sliding rafters. You can’t think of others for the construction of a farm building from a bar. The fact is that natural wood is subject to shrinkage, which reaches 15%. Therefore, it is important to allow the roof to sink a little over the months so that the stress does not cause cracks in the timbers. And for this, the upper part of the rafters is fixed rigidly, and the lower part is a little looser, on a special metal element called a “slipper”. And the roof after shrinkage is not deformed.
• Rafters. These are usually placed where the barn has internal partitions, and the walls are made of brick or block, which are generally poorly adapted to the load.
• hanging rafters. These do not have any additional supports in the middle, and the entire load falls on the external load-bearing walls. Such rafters are assembled on the ground, in the form of ready-made roof trusses, and only then they are lifted to the roof in finished form.

Step 3. Installing the Mauerlat

In a shed roof, the rafter leg rests with one end on the Mauerlat, and with the other end on the Mauerlat ridge. They are joined with a notch. It is necessary to install a Mauerlat, because. they serve to more evenly distribute the load from the roof to the walls.

Once the walls of your barn are ready, lay the rolled waterproofing material on them and lay the mauerlat. With a long drill, make holes for the anchor bolts, and be sure to treat the Mauerlat itself with an antiseptic. After that, fix the Mauerlat on the wall, insert the anchors and fix it. Be sure to isolate the bars from the walls with roofing felt or roofing material.

Here you can clearly see what needs to be done and how:

Step 4. Installation of rafter legs and battens

The gable and rear rafters are installed first, and then a twine is stretched between them, which will become a guideline for installing all the other rafter legs.

The step between the rafter legs should not be more than 1 meter. As a result, the truss truss is obtained in the form of a right triangle. Moreover, both hollow, consisting only of sides, and with internal partitions, which are called braces, struts and stops.

Now we install fillies - additional overhangs, under which we put roofing material to protect them from dampness. You will subsequently sew this overhang with siding.

Then we nail the crate. If you plan to cover the roof with roofing felt or other soft roofing, then make the crate solid, from plywood sheets. And the lattice - for corrugated board and other rigid sheet materials.

Step 5. Laying waterproofing

Now we lay the waterproofing film. Lay it with an overlap of 10-15 cm, and be sure to glue all the joints. Fasten the film with a construction stapler along the entire roof, starting from the bottom row. Then press the waterproofing film with the battens of the control battens, leaving 3-5 cm for the ventilation gap.

But not everyone takes into account when building a barn that a waterproofing film is needed for the roof not only as protection from atmospheric precipitation. The fact is that in any technical and utility rooms there is always a lot of dust.

She is brought with her feet from the site, appears when working with different materials, and just over time - the place is not residential. And, of course, part of the dust rises, settling on the sheets and accelerating their aging, and ventilation of the under-roof space suffers first of all. And therefore, since you have already saved on the crate and roofing material, do not be stingy and purchase a modern diffuse film. Which will provide a pitched roof:

1. Protection against ingress of dust.
2. Protection from rain and melt water.
3. Improves air circulation in the roof space.
4. It will delay the exit of heat through the roof, which will improve the thermal insulation of the roof.
5. Thanks to microperforation, it will remove water vapor from the thermal insulation.

Step 6. Installing the counter grille

Now, right on the waterproofing coating, strictly perpendicular to the crate, we fasten the counter-lattice - small bars that will serve as the basis for mounting the roofing.

Step 7. Roof decking

Now lay the roofing material. Take special self-tapping screws for this purpose, which are recommended by the manufacturer of this coating (usually they are included). In any case, these should be galvanized self-tapping screws with a rubber cap that will protect the coating from moisture.

As for the choice of the coverage itself, we note the following. It is clear that for the roof of a garage or barn, no one wants to buy the most expensive tile of the latest fashionable innovations. After all, this is just an outbuilding and you want to save money on it. That is why, when choosing a roofing for a shed roof, be guided by the following points:

1. Sufficient light fastness.
2. Durability that can withstand heavy snowfall.
3. Close coefficients of thermal expansion of all roofing elements, or the use of special technical solutions.

So, the simplest and most popular roofing for outbuildings is the good old (or not good, in view of recent research?) slate:

Coated farm buildings turn out to be pretty, like ondulin:

Moreover, you do not have to build a colorless roof of the barn! The transparency of polycarbonate sheets is also preserved during tinting, but from a distance such a roof will look great. All thanks to the unique color palette of roofing PC tinting:

• Sky blue and blue shades.
• Green: emerald and malachite.
• A wide selection of shades of traditional red.
• Bronze.
• Silver gray and smoky gray.
• Lactic.

But you will need a special mount and sealed tapes so that neither dust nor moisture gets into the hollow cells of the polycarbonate panels. Dust itself is bad in that it significantly reduces the light-transmitting properties of such a roof, and therefore arrange a small greenhouse or winter Garden it won't work in the attic. Secondly, it is extremely unaesthetic. And thirdly, if dirt is brought in from ordinary land or a vegetable garden, do not be surprised how biodiversity will soon begin to crawl along the honeycombs and enjoy life (it is a rather unpleasant picture).

And with the right approach, this is what happens:

And here's an option:

By the way, a stone or brick curb, also covered with a roofing, will help protect any roofing from the force of the wind.

Step 8. Organization of the drain

The drain of a pitched roof can be either organized, when water leaves through special gutters, catchment funnels and pipes, or unorganized, when it simply flows off the edge of the roof. It all depends on how often it rains in your area, and where you want to direct the rainwater.

So, for example, a barn can stand in that place of the site where the traffic is low, and water from the roof may well drain directly to the ground. Or maybe in front of the track, which you don’t want to flood at all. And one more thing: diverted water - less dampness in the room. Here, starting from this, decide whether you need a drain for such a small building. If you are doing unorganized water drainage, i.e. there will be no drain, make the cornice overhang at least 55 cm.

Also, if you are building a complex shed roof, consisting of several combined ones, then especially carefully consider the drain.

Step 9. Finishing work

Let's move on to the finishing touches. We install snow retainers, if necessary, and equip the drainage system. We put clamps for gutters, fasten the eaves.

By the way, to increase the fire resistance wooden structures barn, treat it either with a special fire-retardant solution, at least with lime. If in some place a wooden roof element will dock with a stone (and shed roofs often have a stone curb for additional protection from rain), then these elements must be treated with an antiseptic. It is even better to lay a roofing material or roofing felt between such materials that are so different in hydrophobic terms.

The best examples of construction

It will be easier and faster for you to build such a simple shed with a minimum roof span:

In this example of construction, the barn is a canopy with walls sheathed with slab material. As a bearing support, asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 12 cm were used, which are dug in and concreted into the ground.

On the pipe there is a crossbar board measuring 5x15 cm. As a result, walls with the desired height difference were obtained: 2 meters and 3.5 meters. The drop itself turned out to be one and a half meters, and the width of the span was 3.65 m.

The rafters were made 5x10 cm with special cuts for the lower and upper strapping. Step - 1 m. Up - a counter-lattice of 5x5 cm bars, and directly the slate itself. The pediments are sewn up with polycarbonate for natural light.

If you want nothing to freeze in such a barn in winter, build it with insulated walls:

Moreover, a barn with a shed roof does not have to be primitive and shed at all. How do you like this option?

Got it? Roll up your sleeves!

Reading time ≈ 10 minutes

Plot country house or giving always provides for the presence of utility rooms for storing garden tools, firewood, or just any things that do not have to be stored in a residential area. In this regard, we will consider how with a shed roof made of lumber on a columnar or pile foundation. Below is a step-by-step description of each step that you have to take to build such a structure.

Wooden shed with pitched roof

Stages of building a barn. Foundation and walls

Video: Construction of a shed wooden shed

If you already have a finished sketch or even a drawing of the future barn, then you can get to work. It is only advisable to purchase everything ahead of time necessary materials so as not to run around warehouses and shops in the process. So, now we will deal with it step by step, as with a pitched roof.

Foundation laying

Column Foundation under the barn with a wooden grillage

To make a light architectural structure, you need a base, despite its low weight, and in this case we use a prefabricated one. This is a simple design, but it must be horizontally even, and the pitch of the supports should correspond to the expected load.

In the photo above, the pillars are assembled from sand-lime bricks, but building ordinary or double bricks are also suitable here, but in order for it to last longer, the finished supports will have to be plastered. For a stable soil, it is enough to make holes 30 cm deep, pour a layer of pitch up to 5 cm and pour a concrete pad of the same thickness. Until the concrete is dry (the next day), lay brick pillars so that they rise 10-15 cm above ground level. Check the compliance of all masonry with a water level. Height adjustment can be done by adding or removing mortar.

The step between the posts is no more than 2 m - heavy objects can be stored in the shed, so the base must withstand the load. Support should be at each corner, and also under the lintel if long floorboards have to be installed. If for the grillage you have to sew a beam, then a pole must also be installed at the docking point.

Somewhere in a week, when the masonry and the pillow grab well (this is only the initial stage - the full cycle takes 28 days), it will be possible to install a grillage from a bar 100 × 100 100 × 150 mm. Do not rush to fix it to the foundation: first fasten the frame with nails and check the diagonals - the allowable discrepancy in the parameters is ± 2 mm, but it is better without it at all. Do not neglect this instruction - otherwise you will have problems installing the truss system due to the lack of right angles.

After that, attach the grillage and jumper (if provided) to the poles using anchors - these are plastic dowels with long bolts, on which there is a thread with a large pitch, like on a screw.

Wall assembly

Wooden frame of the shed for sheathing with boards

To assemble a wooden frame, it is best to use boards 50 × 100 mm, firstly, this thickness is sufficient for the mechanical strength of the racks, secondly, the board will release 50 mm grillage on which the floorboards will rest and, thirdly, it is one and a half times cheaper than the same racks, but from a bar.

The risers are first placed in the corners, and in order to fix them in a strictly vertical position, temporary braces from rails or bars are screwed to them and to the grillage (any waste will do). Do not forget that the front wall will turn out to be higher than the back - the parameters will be known to you after the calculations of the roof (you will learn about this below).

Reinforced metal corner for fastening wooden structures

In order to fix the boards to the wooden grillage, use metal fasteners - the best is a perforated corner with a jumper, as in the top photo. After arranging the corner risers, install the upper crown from the same board - here you can use side metal plates for fixing (even perforated tape hangers will do).

After that, insert the intermediate risers - this is much easier to do, since the board can be attached to the right place and put marks on it with a pencil. If the pediment is made of a different material, then install a horizontal jumper along the perimeter from the same board, which will separate the pediment and walls. Also install horizontal jumpers in those places where there will be windows and doors - when sheathing the wall, you will simply bypass them. Even if this is a barn in the country, one or two windows will not be superfluous there, especially if you are not going to bring 220 V there for lighting.

Shed boarding

After assembling the frame, cover the truss system with roofing material - this will protect the wood in case of rain, and you can, for example, lay the floor at this time and rain will not be a serious hindrance. For walls, it is best to use a grooved board, and the thickness here is not critical. It is very convenient to use a wooden lining for outdoor work, which is also called a "collective farmer". With a thickness of 22 mm, it costs 178-180 rubles. per square and 8000 rubles. per cube in fact, this is the same grooved board, only with the correct geometry.

Sheathing should start from the outside - you sheathe all the walls and the gable, leaving openings for windows and doors. After sheathing, you insert windows and a box with a door, after which they can be immediately cashed out. In the event that you are going to store any products in the barn, for example, apples or potatoes, then it is better to insulate the walls with mineral wool or foam. If you choose to mineral wool, then use basalt (stone wool) - it is not afraid of moisture.

After installing the insulation, cover it with dense polyethylene, but if it turns out flush with the risers, then nail or screw additional slats 25 mm thick over the film - they will serve to create a ventilation gap. From the inside, the barn can be sheathed with plywood or OSB, but a “collective farmer” will also be appropriate if you have enough of it. Below you can watch a video of the construction of the barn.

Video: Do-it-yourself barn

Stages of building a barn. Roof

Before you start building or even sketching on paper, you need to imagine in your mind what you want. After that, it will be easier for you to make a step-by-step plan and do the work itself.

What are the benefits of sheds with a shed roof

Timber shed

Of course, the shed truss system is very simple and it may seem to someone that such a project is not worthy of attention. But in fact, such roofs have a number of advantages:

1. low financial costs for building materials;
2. lack of complexity and speed of installation;
3. increased resistance to wind loads.

The disadvantages include the lack of an attic and a simplified appearance, but ... Firstly, this is an outbuilding where an attic, and even more so an attic, is not needed, and secondly, for this type of premises, one ramp looks quite aesthetically pleasing. In addition, it is quite light, and given that the load-bearing walls of such a structure are not very powerful, then there is nothing extra load here.

single truss system

The following elements are included in the design of a pitched roof:

• a shed truss system is a set of supporting and retaining elements on which roofing material is mounted;
• gables - as a rule, there are three of them: two sidewalls in the form of a right-angled triangle and the front part in the form of a rectangle. They are made either from the same material from which the walls are built, or from sheet lumber such as moisture-resistant plywood or OSB-3 (water-repellent class). In some cases, the gables are made translucent using monolithic polycarbonate;
• overhangs are rafter legs that extend beyond the perimeter (the crate protrudes on the sides), covered with roofing material and protecting the walls from flowing water during and after precipitation;
• roofing material - in this case, roofing material laid on plywood, flat or wave slate, corrugated board or metal tile is most often used.

Video: Volumetric model of a pitched roof

How to calculate the slope of the truss system

Calculation of the slope of a pitched roof

The main focus of the shed truss system falls on the front and rear walls. They can be the same or different heights. Permissible angle the slope of the slope is between 5⁰ and 60⁰, but if construction takes place in regions with heavy snowfall, then the angle is set at least 45-60⁰. But do not forget that increasing the slope entails an increase in financial costs for materials up to 20%. In regions with strong wind loads, a large slope should not be done. The rafter system is positioned so that it turns out to be deployed with a slope to the windward side.

Cross-section of rafter legs depending on their length and pitch

Do not forget that the truss system should not be made from what is at hand, but from precisely calculated, high-quality lumber, and for calculation you can pay attention to the table above.

What you need to make a truss system

Rafter system, side view

Perhaps you purchased untreated wood, that is, there is a wane there or is it generally unedged board. In this case, you will have to remove the bark (it's easy) and cut the edge circular saw(manual or stationary). Be sure to treat the blanks with an antiseptic and flame retardant (often these drugs are sold "in one bottle").

Metal fasteners for rafter legs - options

Parts you will need to make:

• Mauerlat. For it, a beam of 100 × 100 or 100 × 150 mm is often used, but in our case, a board of 50 × 100 or even 50 × 70 mm is enough. It is laid around the entire perimeter of the walls, and it is a support for the truss system. If the shed is framed, then it is anchored to the upper lintel of the frame, or the lintel itself will serve as a power plate - such a board can easily withstand the load from the mass of the roof.
• Rafter legs. The choice of section of a bar, beam, board or log depends on the pitch of the rafters and the length of the rafter leg. Focus on the table.

Explanation. A bar is a wooden profile, in which each side has at least 100 mm. If one side is twice as large as the other, then this is already a board, for example, 9 × 20 mm or 50 × 100 mm. Everything else belongs to the category of bars, slats and slats.

• Supports, girders, braces. Most often made from bars, occasionally from boards.
• Lathing. This is an intermittent or continuous covering over the rafter legs for fixing the roofing material. In the case of a continuous crate, moisture-resistant plywood, or OSB-3, is used.

Video: Construction of a pitched roof

Conclusion

In this article, you learned how to build a shed roof with your own hands. And although all the work here is laid out in stages, in practice this is not entirely true. For example, the rafter system is made after the construction of the frame for the walls, but the roofing material is often mounted after the floor is laid. That is, the sequence of work depends for the most part on the personal convenience of their execution.

In the country, you can not do without a barn, in which you can remove all gardening equipment, a hammock and light furniture. There is also a place for winter supplies in it. At the same time, it is not necessary to build an overall structure: everything you need will fit in a small shed with a pitched roof.

Peculiarities

A shed roof shed is simple and quick to build. It can either be built from improvised materials, or you can purchase everything you need at a hardware store, paying a reasonable price for it. This small building reliably protects home belongings from the vagaries of the weather, and even a non-professional can mount it.

Such a barn has a number of disadvantages when compared with a building with a gable roof. So, a shed roof can be blown away by a strong gust of wind, so build a structure behind the house or attach it to yours. country house for greater reliability.

Shed roof will not allow to build attic space, and the building itself often does not look very attractive. To fix the matter will help modern Decoration Materials, with which you can fit the building into the overall design of your site.

Project

First of all, find a place for a future building: it should be located either on the edge of a summer cottage, or close to the house, and for it you should choose areas that are least suitable for agricultural work.

It can be either a space remote from the house, or a heavily shaded place. It is important that it is located near the main work front: this will allow you to quickly get and remove the necessary equipment. If possible, locate the building on a hill, which will provide additional protection from water and prolong its life.

A barn with a shed roof will organically fit into an existing or planned complex of summer cottages. The future utility room should not interfere with the passage of vehicles and your movements around the site. For the construction of a barn, special agreements are not required, but the construction must comply with sanitary and fire safety standards.

According to SNiP, the distance from your building to the house on the neighboring site is at least three meters. If you plan to place any living creatures in the annex, keep the barn at a distance of four meters from the neighbors. The barn should be located a meter from the nearest outbuilding and shrub plants, two from medium-sized and four from tall trees.

When you decide on a place, draw up a drawing on paper or a 3D project on a computer in order to best imagine the dimensions of the future building, divide it into several functional rooms, and determine the design of electrical networks. Optimal size structures are considered to be 3x6 parameters - even such a modest area will make it possible to place not only an economic unit inside the barn, but also to equip Summer shower or summer kitchen.

If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site allows, build a larger shed - 4x6 or 4x2. The spacious design will great solution if you want to put animals or poultry in it. If breeding of living creatures is not provided, the building will accommodate both country equipment and any functional room like a shower or kitchen, and pickles will freely take up space on the shelves.

materials

During the design phase, determine what materials you will need for construction. After all, the cost of future construction depends on them. A budget option is a wooden or metal frame structure.

In the first case, the frame is made of timber, which requires treatment with special antiseptic agents. In the second - from more durable steel profile pipes requiring anti-corrosion treatment after installation.

Regardless of your preferences, you will need boards, siding or corrugated boards for building sheathing. The indisputable advantage of the frame structure is not only the speed of installation and long service life, but also the ability to transform the barn by replacing the sheathing without touching the frame.

The most popular are buildings made from improvised materials such as boards and wooden beams. A frame is constructed from a bar, sheathed with boards. The result is a lightweight, but short-lived structure, the service life of which is five to six years at most. The building should be constantly updated and monitored for its condition.

If you need a reliable, durable and fireproof construction, give preference to fundamental brick buildings. The creation of such a change house will cost a pretty penny, but it will serve more than one generation.

Instead of expensive bricks, construction from more budgetary foam and cinder blocks is also acceptable. Compared to brick structures, they weigh less, have greater strength and heat capacity. Walls made of blocks "breathe" no worse than wooden ones, and they are also safe and non-toxic.

The only drawback of a block shed is an unsightly appearance, which can only be corrected by decorative finishing materials such as brick, siding, plaster, and natural or artificial stone.

After deciding on the material for the walls of the barn, proceed to the choice of roofing building material, which determines the angle of inclination of the roof slope. So, the angle of inclination for soft roof is 5 degrees, corrugated board - 8, metal tiles and piece roofing material - 25 and slate - 20-35 degrees. The angle of inclination below the specified values ​​\u200b\u200bis not done, otherwise it will lead to roof leaks and damage to the property stored in the building.

For the arrangement of the roof, it is permissible to use monolithic polycarbonate sheets with such properties as high impact resistance, light transmission and resistance to any vagaries of the weather.

A protective coating from ultraviolet radiation will extend the life of this material, and thermal expansion is considered its main drawback. This phenomenon occurs on hot summer days when the sun burns through the roof. To avoid deformation of the material, leave a small gap when tightening each fastener.

Rolled roofing material is considered the cheapest option for roofing. It is easy to install and is designed for roofing of any complexity. But it does not look aesthetically pleasing, and it needs to be laid in several layers. For example, with a roof slope of up to 15 degrees, four layers of roofing material will be needed. If the angle of inclination is up to 45 degrees, the roofing material is laid in three layers. Ultimately, "layering" affects the cost of building materials.

Construction

The necessary calculations have been carried out, the materials have been selected. It's time to get straight to construction work, after all, it is quite possible to build such an extension as a shed barn with your own hands. To understand how best to do this, consider the construction process in stages.

Let's start with the foundation. The columnar foundation is designed for lightweight structures (especially often it is equipped for frame buildings). For its device, it is necessary to mark the ground with a rope and pegs. Holes are dug around the perimeter and in the corners at least 50 centimeters deep. A layer of sand and gravel is poured at the bottom of each hole. Then one of the types of pillars made of brick, concrete, asbestos pipes from 150 mm in diameter is installed, pvc pipes and even railway sleepers. Pillars made of pipes should be poured with concrete, and brick and block supports with a porous surface should be treated with mastic or any other water-repellent agent.

To install a strip foundation around the perimeter of the future building, they dig a trench 25-40 cm wide and 40-60 deep (taking into account the depth of soil freezing in the cold season). Then sand, crushed stone and gravel are poured onto the bottom of the trench, which should be carefully compacted, plank formwork is installed, reinforcement is fixed and concrete is poured. After that, the foundation is left alone for two to three weeks, they wait until it hardens, and then proceed to the next stage of construction work.

In addition to the well-known types of foundation, it is permissible to equip the base from automobile tires. In addition to sheds, on tires you can also build gazebos, baths, garages and even summer kitchens. At the same time, the constructed structures should be light and small-sized, since the construction of large objects on such a foundation can lead to unpredictable consequences.

In general, tires are a budget and affordable material that is easy to install. It does not allow moisture to pass through, protects the building from cracking, and also dampens soil vibrations, which makes it indispensable in any seismically unstable area.

The foundation of tires can be columnar or monolithic.

The first is set as follows:

• Garbage is removed from the construction site and the fertile layer of soil is removed.
• If it is planned to install a buried base, wells are dug for tires.
• Pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the future building, and then they are checked that they were installed in the same plane by measuring the diagonals.
• The bars are installed, and then tires are put on them (or they are laid in pits).
• The outer surfaces of the tires are aligned so that they are on the same level.
• From the inside, tires are filled with crushed stone, gravel and any other dense material. Similarly, fill the distance between the tires.
• The next step is to pour concrete mortar inside the tire. Cement should be periodically moistened and covered with polyethylene.
• After that, it is necessary to cover the tires with roofing material, mount a plank formwork 100-150 millimeters high, install reinforcement inside and pour concrete.

Submerged or elevated monolithic foundation of tires is ideal for areas with high groundwater levels.

Set it up like this:

• Remove a layer of soil with a depth of 20-30 cm and level the construction site horizontally using a level.
• One or two layers of tires are laid closely over the area of ​​the marked area. The height and diameter of the tires have a positive effect on the shock-absorbing and waterproofing properties of the material.
• The inner parts of the tires and the intervals between them are filled with crushed stone and gravel (any dense building material is also suitable), carefully compacted and poured with cement.
• The roofing material is spread over the entire area of ​​​​the laid tires and reserves are left on all four sides of the future foundation.
• Formwork with a height of 100-150 millimeters is mounted around the perimeter of the future structure, taking into account its partitions. Metal reinforcement is installed in it and poured with concrete.

After arranging the foundation, they begin to create a lower harness, made of a bar with a section of 100 by 100 or 150 by 150 millimeters. To do this, the ends of the timber should be chopped off using the “half-tree” method and connected with metal staples.

The next stage of work is the assembly of the frame: to make it, install vertical racks and align them with building level. The installation of the front wall is carried out so that the desired angle of inclination of the roof is obtained. Racks should be strengthened with temporary slopes and at the same time outline the location of future windows and doors, so that later you do not suffer with cutting them out.

Then, floor logs should be mounted on the frame, attaching them at intervals of 60-120 centimeters. The floor is laid with edged or specially grooved boards.