What does the plant look like after watering? What does the plant look like after watering around

For any houseplant, the correctness or incorrectness of care is almost always associated with the quality of watering. The ability to find a balance, to approach the process of soil moisture reasonably, not to go to extremes and “listen” to the plants is the main rule of correct watering. But not the only one. After all, finding a middle ground between scarce and excessive watering is not at all easy. The basic rules for watering indoor plants will help you avoid major mistakes with this important procedure. Let's get to know them better.

1. Quality watering starts with water quality

Houseplants should not be watered with water with unverified characteristics, especially tap water, not settled, cold or hot. The water temperature must match the air temperature in the room. It is necessary to defend it before watering for at least 2-3 days.

The ideal option is melted, rain (subject to a favorable environmental situation) or filtered "drinking" water. It is better not to water indoor plants with boiled water (with rare exceptions), and mineralization is generally strictly prohibited. Some plants may need distilled water.

2. Watering should be carried out only when they are needed.

Checking the degree of drying of the substrate and controlling the rate of moisture consumption by the plant at different stages of development will help to avoid blunders with watering. Whatever the standard recommendations, you need to judge the need for watering only by the soil.

Before taking on a watering can, it is worth checking whether the plant needs watering:

• Check the moisture content of the top layer of the substrate (surface and at a depth of 1 to 2 cm, lightly rubbing the earth between your fingers;
• Compare whether the pot has become lighter (the weight of the pot before and after watering is significantly different).

3. No watering for everyone at once!

Setting aside a specific day/days of the week for watering and watering all the plants at the same time indiscriminately is the biggest mistake. It's definitely more convenient that way. But indoor plants are all different, and it is also worth watering them at different times.

Indoor plants can be grouped according to the degree of moisture-loving (hygrophilous, moderately moisture-loving or drought-resistant) and even by origin (desert, subtropical, tropical). But it's best to check individual variety and species recommendations and draw up a schedule for each plant.

A good strategy is to keep simple records or spreadsheets, or use pot tags and tags with information about:

• with what frequency and abundance it is necessary to water the plant at different stages of development;
• how much water can be left in the trays;
• what should be the water.

Always highlight with special "markers" plants that are watered through pallets, by wicking, by pouring water into leaf funnels or by immersion.

4. Extremes are unacceptable

Drought and waterlogging are two poles in determining improper watering. Both are considered invalid. The substrate for any houseplant should not be wet in the upper 2-3 cm for longer than a few minutes after watering.

Even for moisture-loving species, the top layer of the substrate should be allowed to dry until the next watering. And for plants that are drought-resistant and require minimal watering, it is not worth bringing the matter to the complete drying of the substrate at the bottom of the pot (except for bulbous and tuberous plants that winter in complete dryness, and cacti that can withstand dryness).

Emergencies, including departures, happen to all flower growers. But if regular care is careless, allow constant overflows or underfill plants, then you should not expect health and beauty from them.

In watering indoor plants, one rule always works: not topping up a little is always better than overdoing it with the amount of water.

5. Frequency and Abundance of Watering Are Equally Important

Watering is frequent (daily or every other day), medium or moderately frequent (every 2-3 days) and rare (no more than once a week). But in addition to frequency, the quality of soil wetting is also important for all indoor plants.

How much the substrate will be saturated with water - the abundance of irrigation - is determined by a few upper centimeters of soil. Abundant or generous watering immediately makes the soil very wet, after a couple of minutes - damp, and only after a while - wet.

With standard moderate watering, the soil is not damp: after sputum, it should become evenly moist in a couple of minutes. And light waterings are those in which the soil with a little damp immediately becomes wet.

Determine the degree of humidity tactilely:

• wet soil “drips”, when the substrate is compressed, drops of water appear;
• damp soil is easily crumpled and sticky;
• wet rolls, wrinkles, but does not stick to the hand;
• dry - crumbles when squeezed.

Any watering is considered correct only when the amount of water allows the entire earthen ball to be wetted evenly, to the lowest layers - so that a little water stands out from the drainage holes not immediately, but some time after watering.

Draining too quickly or no water in the sump, signaling water tightness or the substrate's inability to retain water, is equally undesirable.

For high-quality watering, it is better to divide the water into several passes and observe the impregnation of the earthen clod, giving the water a chance not to pour out immediately, but to be evenly distributed.

6. Scattering and being careful is the best watering strategy.

It is impossible to water in one place with a strong jet of water, which compacts and erodes the substrate. For watering, it is advisable to use convenient watering cans with scattering nozzles specially designed for indoor plants. You need to direct the water along the perimeter of the pot, low, avoiding the formation of pits, slowly, without "puddles" and accumulation of water above the soil.

Particular attention should be paid to accuracy: not all houseplants are sensitive to getting wet, but none will thank you for its decorative effect when watered carelessly. Water should not be directed to the trunks and under the roots, to the root collars and growth points, to soak and splash the leaves.

With signs of soil compaction, crusting, poor soaking of the substrate, you should immediately take care of loosening. In case of severe contamination or mold, change the topsoil.

7. Watering should not be done in the middle of the day.

Indoor plants are best watered in the early morning or evening during the warm season and only in the early morning during cold seasons. Watering can not be carried out under direct sun, at the height of the day.

8. Water should not stagnate in pans

Even for plants that require immersion or drip irrigation, the amount of time water should be left in an external container should be limited. With classic top watering, any remaining water in the pans should be drained after 5-8 minutes.

Even 10 minutes of water stagnation in the lower part of the substrate and oversaturation of drainage with water can lead to the onset of negative processes for rot-sensitive species.

9. Correction of watering at the slightest change

Watering rarely manages to be carried out with an established frequency. If the weather is hot, heating works harder, air humidity drops, the plant is actively developing, watering needs to be increased. But not in abundance, but in frequency, compensating for all factors.

It should always be remembered that numerous other factors influence the irrigation schedule:

• pot size (the larger the container, the less often watering should be);
• pot materials (plants in ceramic containers are watered more abundantly);
• leaf size and density;
• location in the room and frequency of ventilation;
• air humidity level;
• the degree of filling of the substrate with roots;
• drafts, etc.

10. Using smart assistants

Today, both budget and elite systems have been developed for indoor plants to avoid difficulties with watering. The simplest and most affordable indicators, self-watering flasks, double-walled containers, hydroponic installations will reduce watering efforts to a minimum.

Even a simple moisture level indicator will eliminate the need to constantly check the soil by touch. And if there are difficulties with determining whether the plant needs watering or it is better to wait, be sure to get such smart helpers.

Indoor plants are in almost every home. This is the best interior decoration. In order for green pets to grow beautiful and healthy, they need to provide proper care. In this article, we will learn how to care for indoor plants.

General rules of care

There is a lot different types indoor plants. Each variety is distinguished by its external characteristics and features of care. However, there general rules cultivation of all domestic plants. Let's take a look at how to properly care for them.

Moderation

Caring for most types of houseplants is easy.. Many of the green pets are unpretentious, so beginner flower growers manage to grow them. In any case, when caring for indoor plants, moderation must be observed in everything. Necessary watering and fertilizing is required to be made without undue zeal. There should not be an excess in liquid or fertilizers in any case.. And they need to be added in a timely manner. If you do not observe moderation in caring for indoor plants, you can face a lot of serious problems.

For example, waterlogging of the soil often leads to rotting of the root system of plantings. As a result, flowers can begin to get very sick, and subsequently risk dying.

Compliance with the rest period

When caring for indoor plants, we must not forget about the rest period necessary for them. In winter, many well-known varieties of house flowers go into a kind of “low power consumption” mode. In such a period, there is no need for top dressing. Watering and other caring manipulations should be reduced.

Maintaining appearance

It is equally important to keep your houseplants looking healthy and attractive. It is required to remove dried buds, inflorescences, leaf blades and shoots in a timely manner. These manipulations will contribute to the preservation and attractiveness and health of plants.

Deprived of dead components, flowers will not expend vitality, nourishing unnecessary parts.

Disease and pest control

Every grower knows what houseplants need daily inspection. Thus, it is easier to monitor the condition of green pets. Subject to regular inspections, a person can notice the onset of diseases that have affected plants in time. Most often, damage by a fungus or viruses can be seen on indoor flowers. Started on time proper treatment will be more successful.

Set of tools

Any operations carried out to care for plants, whether it be watering, planting, transplanting or fertilizing, are carried out using the appropriate equipment. Consider what exactly a grower will need to grow green pets.

• Watering can. When buying this device, it is recommended to select options with an elongated spout. Using such options for watering cans, watering is much more convenient and easier. At the same time, water can penetrate even through thick leaves. indoor flower. With a suitable watering can, watering the plant will be complete and safe.
• Flask. What this device looks like is known to everyone. The elongated tip of an elongated structure and a spherical water tank make the flask an indispensable item for automatic watering indoor flowers during the departure of the owners. It is enough to pour clean water into the container and stick it into the ground with the tip down. The soil will be saturated with the necessary moisture gradually, as it dries out.
• Sprayer. The spray gun can be used when caring for not all types of indoor plants. Some varieties do not need moistening of leaf plates. But keep in mind that with the onset of too hot days, the foliage can still dry out, which will negatively affect appearance landings, so the spray gun can be a very useful device.
• Tray with water. Most often, this detail is used if the houseplant grows in a room with very dry air. Do not put a flower pot directly into the water. It is advisable to add expanded clay or pebbles. These components will gradually absorb excess moisture, transferring it to the rhizomes. The described method of caring for flowers is especially in demand and useful if they are located in close proximity to heating devices. With the advent of the winter seasons, they will need regular replenishment with life-giving moisture, which the grower should not forget about.

All the necessary equipment for caring for plants can be bought in special garden stores. Typically, these devices are inexpensive.

Houseplants need to be provided optimal conditions content. Let us consider in detail what the florist should take care of.

Location and lighting

Many indoor plants need adequate lighting. Typically, daylight hours should be between 12 and 16 hours per day. At times when the plant is at rest, these time frames can be shortened. Because in our country climatic conditions not favorable everywhere, people often have to resort to auxiliary lighting (special lamps are suitable). This is especially true for heat-loving tropical flowers that prefer to grow on the sunny side.

It is not recommended to expose indoor plants on the windowsill under the most direct rays of the sun. In such conditions, green pets are at risk of getting burned. The sun should not be in excess. Diffused light or light partial shade is ideal - it all depends on the preferences of a particular type of plant. It is worth bearing in mind that in low light, the processes of photosynthesis will inevitably slow down. This will negatively affect the health of the flower.

Temperature

At home, heat-loving plants are most often grown that cannot survive on the street. Such plantings need warm, room temperature air in the room where they grow. The optimal indicators are from +16 to +22 degrees Celsius.

Even tropical species of indoor plants "do not like" excessive heat. Do not try to create conditions in your home that are too close to the jungle. Rare indoor flowers "will like" temperature indicators exceeding +24 degrees. And there are crops that grow better in a slightly cool environment (for example, at a temperature of +15 degrees Celsius).

Humidity

The main percentage of indoor plants belongs to the moisture-loving category. The humidity level should be slightly above average. At the same time, one should not forget about the direct origin of domestic flowers - most of them come from the humid tropics. High humidity indicators have a beneficial effect not only on the condition of plants, but also on people.

Try to ensure that the air around indoor flowers is not dry. This will adversely affect their appearance and health in general. This will increase the risk of pest attacks.

The soil

It is important to take care of the use of high-quality soil for flowers. Houseplants have nowhere else to take nutrients except from the soil mixture. The soil should contain not only all the necessary nutrients. The earth must also have a suitable structure. It should not be too loose or too dense. It is important to take care of the drainage layer in the plant pot. A drainage layer is needed for almost all home flowers.

Pot

Modern flower growers can independently choose in which tank to grow indoor plants. On sale there is a mass of suitable containers made of different materials: pots, flowerpots, boxes. All utensils for flowers are divided into 2 types:

• for growing- in such pots there are already drainage holes;
• for decoration- pots are meant in which there are no additional holes, so they can be placed anywhere without fear of possible leaks.

Houseplants do best in grow tanks. However, such containers look much simpler; with their help, it is unlikely that it will be possible to effectively decorate the interior.

How to water?

Growing your favorite plants at home it is important to take care of their proper watering. All crops love moisture. Under conditions of protected ground in a pot, there is nowhere for flowers to get it, so a person should not forget about the timely introduction of a liquid that feeds the plantings. Some crops easily survive temporary drought (for example, succulents), but there are varieties that begin to wither rapidly if you skip at least a couple of waterings.

Bulbous plants survive drought most easily. They already have a certain supply of moisture that is collected in their fleshy areas. But flowers with thin stems are at risk of dying from lack of moisture. The frequency of watering directly depends on the time of year, a certain variety of indoor plants, as well as the ambient temperature. In winter, autumn and in cool conditions, house flowers should be less frequently moistened. Anyway before watering, you need to make sure that the top earthen layer in pots with plants has already dried up.

loosening

In order to prevent a white salt crust from accumulating on the upper part of the substrate, and also in order to increase the permeability qualities, it is necessary to regularly loosen the soil. But you need to pay attention to the structure of the root system of plants - if it is superficial, maximum caution is required.

Trimming and shaping

Many of the novice flower growers who do not have rich experience treat the procedure for pruning indoor plants with a slight fear, considering it to be both difficult and traumatic. But there is nothing to be afraid of. If everything is done correctly and the flower is formed carefully, there will be no problems. Green pets will not suffer from this in any way.

If you need to remove the growth point at the top of the landings, then here you can use the most simple technology – topping. If the flower has thin stems, pinching can be done with 2 fingers. If we are talking about a fleshy plant, then it is best to use scissors - it will be more convenient and easier. For pruning, always take a pruner, knife or scissors. This procedure cannot be performed manually.

How to transplant?

A transplant is required for all types of indoor plants, especially when it comes to young plantings. They grow pretty fast so they need a transplant every spring in the first 3 years of life. Adult indoor flowers no longer need frequent transplants. It is necessary to transplant them to another place only as needed - depending on the growth rate, plant size and other circumstances.

At times, indoor plants need unscheduled transplant. Most often, it has to be resorted to if certain diseases or serious damage by dangerous pests occur. If too much waterlogging of the soil mixture has occurred, it is better to transplant the plants as soon as possible, without waiting for the rhizomes to rot. If the transplant is planned, a fresh flower pot is selected 2-3 cm larger in diameter.

Mature and slow growing crops are often transplanted into the same pot, you just need to change the ground in it.

Fertilizers and growth stimulants

Indoor plants should be fertilized with balanced mineral compositions. They must be rich in essential ingredients(from potassium to phosphorus). The use of high-quality fertilizers strictly according to the instructions will lead to an improvement in general state planting, there will be an improvement in root formation and rooting. fit saturated funds like "Kornevin".

Liquid formulations should be used according to the scheme: every 2 weeks during the period active growth(from April to September). Fertilizer candles are simply inserted into the substrate, where they nourish the soil. The granular components are laid out on the surface of the soil mixture. The use of complex dressings is necessary for many indoor plants in August.

How to propagate?

Exist various ways propagation of indoor plants. Let's analyze the most popular of them. Generative reproduction takes place by planting new seeds in a suitable substrate. To vegetative methods can be attributed cuttings. To do this, cut off the upper part of the stem of the plant. The stalk should be planted in the soil mixture, watered in a timely manner. The container is covered with foil.

Popular reproduction by children. They are separated with fingers, planted in prepared containers with earth. When the young flowers grow up, they will need to be planted in separate pots. Whiskers are common. The algorithm of actions is simple: from the ends of the shoots, the child processes are removed - the mustache. They must be planted in moist soil, if you managed to take them along with the roots. If the sample is taken without roots, the antennae are rooted, as in cuttings.

Secrets of experienced flower growers

If you want your indoor plants to grow beautiful and healthy, it is worth adopting a few secrets of experienced flower growers.

• If your houses grow ornamental plants and you notice that their leaf blades have faded, it will be possible to return them to their previous appearance with the help of a decoction cooked on a banana peel.
• If you decide to plant a capricious plant at home that requires more complex professional care, it can be slightly protected from pests by transplanting into the soil, in which there are 4 match heads.
• If indoor plants suffer from a dangerous scale insect or spider mite. "ambulance" will be a soap solution (a simple laundry soap), diluted with a few drops of medical alcohol. After processing according to this scheme, the landing is not touched for another day.
• Spraying the plant will be an excellent prevention of the appearance of a red spider mite. This procedure gives the plants more. Rather than simple air humidification.
• By trimming indoor plants, it is always necessary to remove too long branches and old stems that no longer have leaf plates.
• If you decide to grow bright houses tropical plants, they will need to provide conditions that will be as close to natural as possible.

Without watering the garden fruit trees and other crops will not give the harvest that you expected, and in dry seasons they will die altogether. There are several ways to water the garden and garden, and before resorting to one of them or using the whole complex, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules of watering.

Norms of watering plants in the garden and in the garden

Watering the garden in summer, spring and autumn is a difficult but necessary task. Therefore, irrigation systems must be easy to manufacture, reliable and safe to maintain.

Commercially produced small sprinkler nozzles greatly facilitate the work of watering. The nozzle is inserted into a hose, which is vertically fixed with a wire or a collar on a pole stuck in the ground. When fed into the hose, water is sprayed, moistening the soil. Having finished watering one area, the hose with the pole is moved to another place, and the process is repeated.

It is possible to lay a pipeline with vertical pipes, fixing a nozzle on each, and, opening the valve, water the entire area at once. Pipe irrigation is often used. In this case, pipes with holes are laid in the garden. The water supplied under pressure through the holes enters the furrows dug to a depth of 20–30 cm near the plants at a distance of 0.5–1 m from their trunks (depending on age).

According to the need for water, fruit crops can be arranged as follows (from more demanding to less demanding): quince, apple, pear, plum, Walnut, cherry, cherry, peach, apricot.

Watering orchards is carried out taking into account the phases of vegetation fruit plants. Before flowering, there is usually enough moisture accumulated by the soil in winter.

During the flowering period, gardens are watered if the soil is dry and flowering is plentiful.

In June - July, the garden usually needs watering if the amount of rainfall is not enough. Water during this period is required for the growth of shoots, fruits and the laying of fruit buds.

Fruit-bearing orchards during the summer are recommended to be watered in case of insufficient rainfall five to six times in the southern regions and 3-4 times in the north, and young plantations - 3-4 times more often. With a high yield and a sufficient amount of fertilizer, the number of waterings should be increased.

Irrigation rates for gardens depend on the age of plants, soil composition, crop size, etc. It is believed that for a garden area of ​​5 acres (0.05 ha), an average of 15–30 m3 of water is required per irrigation. After 1-2 days after each watering, loosening of the soil is necessary. In the case of soil mulching, the number of waterings can be halved.

The amount of water available to plants depends on many factors. Including the type and depth of the soil, the depth of the root system, the rate of water loss during evaporation, the temperature and the rate of moisture entering the soil.

The rate of water extraction from the soil is a function of root concentration. The deeper the root system, the lower the speed. More than 40% of water is extracted from the upper root layer.

The water entering the soil moves at the rate at which the field capacity is created. The movement of water in the soil from the bottom up is carried out by capillary forces. The loss of water to evaporation affects only the upper layers of the soil. During a period of prolonged drought, it is easy to recognize plants with a shallow root system.

The correct watering time is especially important for the development vegetable crops and get the maximum yield. In addition, it is necessary to observe the rules of watering. For example, for water to penetrate to the root system, it is not enough just to moisten the soil surface. According to the observations of experts, a 3-cm layer of water penetrates the soil to a depth of 25 cm. To soak a plot of 0.5 hectares to such a depth, 130,000 liters of water should be spent. During a prolonged drought, frequent minor waterings do not benefit the plants, since the water does not reach the main volume of the root system, and a hard crust appears on the ground. At the same time, superficial lateral roots are formed in plants, which also suffer during prolonged dry weather.

Sandy soils dry out much faster than clay soils and require more frequent watering. To find out how things are with the soil moisture in the area, you need to dig a hole 20-30 cm deep with a scoop. If the soil at this depth is slightly wet or dry, watering should be done immediately.

Most of all, moisture is required for vegetable crops during intensive growth, that is, from late spring to mid-summer, when the development of plants is determined precisely by the availability of water. In late summer, excess moisture can harm some crops. For example, melons and watermelons are not watered during the ripening period. Tomatoes can also crack from excessive moisture before they turn red. But still, for most plants, watering rates are determined at the rate of 10-15 l / m2 per week. Irrigation rates for ornamental crops are close to those for vegetables.

The main amount of water is absorbed by plants in spring and summer. Particular attention should be paid to watering when planting trees and shrubs, so that the soil tightly fits their roots. Plants outdoors in the summer are subject to natural drying under the influence of sunlight, although they receive enough moisture from winter precipitation. Interestingly, a layer of rainwater of 1 mm gives 10 m3 per 1 ha, that is, 10 tons. A snow cover 40 cm thick - 1000 tons of water per 1 ha, or 100 liters per 1 m2. It is necessary to ensure that the soil near walls, fences and under trees fully receives moisture, as there are certain difficulties in watering in these places. Plants in pots and tubs are prone to drying out quickly and need regular watering in summer.

How to properly water fruit trees and garden watering video

The lack of water adversely affects the growth, fruiting and winter hardiness of fruit trees. But even more detrimental to them is excess moisture. In waterlogged soil, gas exchange decreases, vital microbiological processes slow down, the temperature in the habitat of the root system decreases, which can lead to the death of some of the roots. For fruit trees, frequent watering is also harmful, when only the surface layer of the soil is moistened. This only brings harm, because it prevents free air exchange. Watering fruit trees should be carried out to a depth of 60-80 cm. To determine the availability of soil with water, it is necessary to dig a hole to a depth of 40-50 cm with a scoop, take a lump of earth in a handful and squeeze it tightly. If it retains its shape, then the humidity is normal, and if the earth crumbles in the palm of your hand, watering is required. True, for sandy soil, this method is less indicative.

Before you properly water fruit trees, you need to determine the time when to do this. Under one of the trees, when planting at a depth of 1–1.5 m, they bury a plastic vessel half-filled with gravel, and then with soil from the surface of the site. The vessel is connected with a hose to another buried nearby at the same level. Above it, a bottle with a capacity of 20 liters is stuck into the ground with its neck down. 2 tubes are passed through the cork of the bottle: atmospheric air enters one, and the other is lowered into the second plastic vessel.

As the tree consumes moisture, its quantity in the first vessel will decrease, and water from the bottle will flow into the second vessel. To know exactly when to start watering, a critical level mark is made on the wall of the bottle. The soil layer in the garden should be moistened to the depth of the vital activity of the root system, for which 600–1000 m3 of water should be spent per 1 ha with a single irrigation. If we talk about watering each tree, then for a 3-5-year-old specimen, one-time watering should be 5-8 buckets, for a 7-10-year-old - 12-15 buckets, and older trees are watered even more abundantly. For example, with an apple tree crown diameter of 3 m, it needs 20 buckets of water during the first spring watering and 30-35 buckets during the second.

And how to water the garden, taking into account the composition of the soil? With light sandy soils, more frequent watering is necessary, but with a lower rate of water consumption; with heavy clay - rare, but plentiful.

Here you can watch a video of watering the garden by the most common method:

Proper watering of vegetable crops

With a lack of moisture in the soil, the growth of cultivated crops stops, water evaporates through the leaves, from the soil surface around the plants.

On a hot day, moisture evaporation can reach 5 l / m2. But this does not mean that vegetable crops should be watered daily; excessive moisture, as already mentioned, can also inhibit growth.

For seed germination and normal development of seedlings, a lot of water is required, but how much depends not only on weather conditions, but also on the type of crops. Leafy vegetables that eat leaves or shoots (cauliflower and white cabbage) respond well to frequent regular watering from the germination stage. The optimal weekly rate during dry periods during the growing season is 10-15 l / m2.

In crops such as peas and beans, excessive soil moisture at the beginning of the growing season can cause increased leaf growth at the expense of fruit development. In this case, in the germination phase, there is no need for artificial irrigation (except for the period of drought), but during flowering and the beginning of fruit formation, watering is required 1–2 times a week at a water flow rate of 5–10 l/m2.

According to the rules for watering plants in the garden, irrigation of vegetable crops is best done in the evening or morning hours. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the soil is moistened to a greater depth.

When watering vegetable crops, splashing water on the surface often leads to excessive evaporation, and moisture does not even have time to reach the root system of plants.

At the same time, evening watering can lead to the development of certain diseases of vegetable crops, since the soil may not dry out until morning.

To avoid the need for constant watering, water-retaining measures should be taken.

On those soils that hold water poorly, deep digging is recommended, which helps to increase the thickness of the root layer and, as a result, the water reserves available to plants. The most effective way to preserve moisture is to add manure, compost, peat, humus to the soil. All organic matter should be thoroughly mixed into the soil.

In order to save moisture, it is important to destroy weeds in time, at the very beginning of their growth. Row spacing and spacing between plants in a row also play a role in determining irrigation rates. Established by experience optimal areas nutrition of various vegetable plants.

To reduce water loss from the soil surface, mulching crops with compost or rotted leaves is very effective. Mulching material should be laid out after rain or watering.

To avoid compaction of the top layer of the earth, it must be well loosened before mulching. In addition, mulch prevents the growth of weeds. And if they do appear, it is easier to pull them out of a loose substrate.

Seeds need a certain amount of water to germinate, so the soil must be moist when sown. Usually it is watered in 1-2 days. In this case, a favorable water-air regime is formed in the soil for the emergence of seedlings. You can water the furrows just before sowing, spending 0.6–0.8 liters per linear meter.

After planting seedlings on permanent place it needs to be watered. Before rooting, the water consumption per 1 plant should be 0.1 liters per day, provided that the soil is thoroughly mulched.

For proper watering of vegetable crops, it is best to moisten not the entire garden, but only the root zone. On large areas, such irrigation is uneconomical, in this case it is recommended to use sprinklers and moisten the soil daily, although this is fraught with excessive water consumption.

Types of watering plants in the garden

There are 4 main types of watering plants: surface, sprinkling, subsoil and jet. In surface irrigation, water is distributed over the surface of the soil.

When sprinkled under pressure, water is sprayed in the form of rain. With subsoil irrigation, it enters the root system of the plant, passing over the impermeable soil layer. With jet irrigation, water is forced up through thin pipes to individual plants.

The simplest type of garden watering is with a watering can. The garden tools presented for sale in several types of different volumes, but it is more expedient to use a 10-liter watering can on the site. Larger watering cans are difficult to use, while smaller watering cans require frequent refilling.

The watering can should have a comfortable handle and a long spout. Most watering cans are equipped with fine-hole nozzles or mesh, which are used when watering seeds and seedlings. They start it on one side, carry a watering can over the seedlings, trying to maintain a constant pressure of water.

Known to all gardeners is such a method of moistening the soil on the site, as watering from a hose that is connected to a water tap or a drain tap from a container. When using a hose, care must be taken that the jet of water does not erode the soil and does not expose the roots of plants.

How to water plants in the garden with a hose? When watering vegetable crops, it is necessary to direct the hose to the aisle to ensure a quick flow of water to the root system of plants. The hose should not twist on bends, then it will retain elasticity for several years. Nylon braided hoses are considered the most durable.

Many people use hoses for irrigation, equipped with holes made at different angles.

Such perforated hoses are laid across the irrigated area and are constantly transferred from place to place to evenly moisten the soil.

A sprinkler can be connected to the hose. An oscillating type sprinkler consists of a perforated tube that swings from side to side and distributes water over a rectangular or square bed. A rotary type sprinkler sprays water through one or more nozzles that move in a circular motion under the pressure of the water. Sprinklers of both types are installed in parks, on lawns and country houses and household plots. At the same time, the uniformity of irrigation is determined by the amount of water falling into empty cans placed along the perimeter or circumference of the site.

For the gradual distribution of water supplied to flower beds, greenhouses and potted plants, use long tubes with small holes for drip irrigation.

These methods relate mainly to the irrigation of vegetable and ornamental crops.

Methods for watering plants in the garden

In the technique of watering a fruit-bearing garden, there are some features. If the garden is large, the trees are watered along the furrows between the rows.

At the same time, the distance between the furrows on light soils should be 70-80 cm, on heavy (clay) soils - up to 1.5 m. The depth of the furrows is 20-25 cm, the width is 0.5 m.

But in gardens in summer cottages and household plots, as a rule, watering trees is traditionally carried out in tree trunks, or rather, in ditches dug around their circumference. After watering, circular ditches are covered with earth. You can not water the trees in the recesses of the near-trunk circle, dug in the form of a funnel. In this case, the water does not reach the terminal roots of the tree, and watering closer to the trunk has no practical benefit.

Subsoil irrigation is very effective for watering the garden. For example, on each square meter of the near-trunk area, a soil drill drills a well with a diameter of 10-12 cm and a depth of 50-60 cm, which is clogged with crushed stone, broken brick or coarse sand.

Trees are watered precisely through such wells, and liquid fertilizers are also applied through them. At the same time, a crust does not form on the surface, and all nutrients and precious moisture penetrate immediately into the deep layers of the soil. Such holes can perform their functions for a long time.

A simpler method of watering plants is to punch holes for irrigation with a crowbar, followed by filling them with earth.

Often, gardeners water trees with a hose, throwing it into the tree trunk while doing other things. After some time, the hose is moved to the near-trunk circle of another tree, completely ignoring the amount of water that has entered the roots of the first tree. And it's not hard to set the standard. You only need to know how many buckets are needed to water a particular tree and the time it takes to fill one bucket from a hose. Then it will be possible to judge the amount of water that has entered the near-trunk circle.

The timing of watering for the garden also has its own peculiarity. The most optimal for fruit trees in the central regions of Russia are the following:

• in the spring before the buds open on the trees, when rapid growth begins, and there is not enough water in the soil;
• 15-20 days after the end of the flowering of trees, since at this time the ovaries of fruits start to grow, which fall off when there is insufficient moisture;
• 15-20 days before picking fruits, but not when they ripen;
• in late autumn, in October, during the period of leaf fall (such pre-winter watering is called moisture charging).

Irrigation systems for the garden

When choosing a source of domestic and drinking water supply for a country or manor house, one should take into account local conditions that determine the choice of a particular water intake system. This requires the calculation of water consumption rates, which depend not only on the level of home improvement, but also on the presence of a vegetable garden, orchard, and subsidiary farming. It is necessary to take into account the significant consumption of water for household needs.

Very often, water is supplied to the centralized water supply according to a certain schedule. Therefore, it is recommended to have a guaranteed supply of it on the site. In most cases, when organizing a garden irrigation system, preference is given to underground sources.

For irrigation water supply, a special water supply is sometimes arranged with water supplied through ground pipes or special watercourses.

It is good to water the garden and garden with rainwater, which should be collected and stored in open tanks installed in places where it drains from the roofs.

In shallow areas ground water arrange small-pipe wells for one or more areas adjacent to each other.

Refreshing watering in summer

In order for fruit and berry crops to receive moisture on time and with high quality, the gardener needs to know and apply several types of irrigation. Each of these species is suitable for a certain season and plays a special role in the development of the plant and its protection from adverse conditions.

summer watering(watering in the summer, seasonal watering) is also called regular, or vegetative, regular watering. It is carried out not only in the summer months, but during the entire active growing season (from the end spring frosts before the first autumn frosts). Trees and shrubs begin to need watering immediately after the onset of warm sunny days, when their buds and flowers bloom, shoots come to life. But with a sufficient thickness of snow cover in the first days of the warm period, watering is sometimes not needed: Plants feed on moisture from melting snow.

Refreshing watering, or sprinkling, is carried out in hot weather. This type of irrigation is not acceptable for all crops. Sprinkling should not be carried out during especially hot hours. This type of irrigation increases the humidity of the air and slightly reduces its temperature. Sprinkling is a finely dispersed watering, so you need to use a sprayer, sprayer or a special nozzle on the hose, you can’t just water the plants from above with water streams.

Fertilizer irrigation- this is a special-purpose irrigation, a method of introducing into the soil liquid fertilizer. But at the same time as receiving nutrients with such watering, a tree or shrub also receives the moisture it needs.

Moisture-charging autumn watering of trees in the garden

Moisture-charging (podzimny) watering is used in the fall. It is necessary to create a supply of moisture in the soil. In autumn, after the end of fruiting, trees and shrubs begin to actively develop their absorbing roots, accumulate nutrients in the tissues. Although in this case there may be almost no active suction zone at the roots, all of the above processes require constant optimal soil moisture. In summer, the soil layer, in which the roots of plants are located, dries up to a large extent, therefore, before starting preparations for the cold season, this layer needs high-quality moisture. The roots of plants, which begin to experience a moisture deficit by the fruiting period, also need water-charging irrigation. At the same time, mechanical absorption of moisture (through the pores in the wood of the roots) begins to predominate in autumn, and not physiological (with the help of active absorbing roots).

After correctly carried out autumn watering of trees, the soil becomes more resistant to cooling, releases heat more slowly (i.e., after watering, its heat capacity increases). The plants themselves, with their buds, are better able to tolerate lower temperatures.

Moisture-charging irrigation begins in the second half of September and ends in early October. These irrigations should not depend on the rains coming or missing during the specified period: even heavy showers cannot compensate for the lack of moisture in the root layer of the soil, so this type of irrigation should be carried out in any weather.

The soil during autumn watering of the garden is moistened to a sufficiently large depth (more than during summer watering). Each plant has its own recommendations for water charging irrigation, including the depth of soil wetting and the depth of the annular groove for irrigation. The fact is that the soil must be moistened to a depth of 90-100 cm, and it is impossible to achieve this with ordinary surface irrigation, therefore ring grooves are needed (only sandy soils can be an exception, even light loams need grooves). In different plants, the root system is located at different distances from the soil surface, therefore, the depth of the grooves, for example, for apple and cherry trees, will not be the same. Grooves are dug around the trunk at a distance of 60-80 cm from each other.

How to water the trees in the garden in accordance with the norms? The irrigation rate is determined in liters for each tree, depending on its species and age (fruitful or young). The rate can be reduced if during the main growing season seasonal waterings were carried out regularly and plentifully. In this case, first check the condition of the soil, digging it with a shovel. Unlike summer watering, the earth is soaked not only to the depth of placement of thin roots, but a little deeper (about 10 cm). After watering, the grooves are filled (if necessary) with fertilizer and leveled with a hoe.

Moisture-charging watering of trees is carried out by uniformly moistening the soil in the near-trunk circle, pouring water into wells specially made in the near-trunk circle or into a furrow that is dug around the near-trunk circle. The main thing is that the soil is saturated with water to a great depth, to the zone where the roots are located.

In this case, you should be careful: you can not overmoisten the soil, i.e., when sprinkling, water should go in small quantities and through a very fine spray mesh. It is also important to know that the most dangerous effect on plants is night frosts (before 5 o'clock in the morning).

Anti-frost watering: how to water plants before frost

Anti-frost irrigation (watering before frost) is carried out in early spring and late autumn to protect the vegetative parts of plants from frost. Fruit and berry crops are especially susceptible to frost damage during flowering and ovary formation: the crop may not only decrease, but die completely.

Water has a high heat capacity; when temperatures drop, it releases heat, increasing the thermal conductivity of the soil after moistening the latter. In the spring, light frosts affect plants less if the soil under them is moderately moistened. In autumn, the danger is reduced due to the heat reserve associated with the heat capacity of water. Water for watering plants before frost low temperatures air (but not negative - in this case, watering is contraindicated) is often warmer than the soil and air, i.e. it is a source of heat in itself. In this case, the leaves can be completely moistened with a sprayer or a spray nozzle on the hose. But this measure is effective only in the absence of the threat of severe frosts. Anti-frost irrigation by sprinkling is carried out at a temperature not colder than -2 ... -7 ° C. The temperature is observed precisely at the level of the location of the flowers and buds of the plant. At negative temperatures, sprinkling allows the formation of an ice crust on the leaves, under which the temperature does not drop below 0 ° C, so that the vegetative parts of the plant do not freeze through.

Watering before frost begins about two days before the onset of cold weather. For sprinkling, spray nozzles are used, located, as a rule, on automatic irrigation devices. The fact is that during freezing, sprinkling should not be interrupted for more than 20–40 minutes, otherwise the air temperature may drop sharply, and the reverse (negative) effect of the procedure will occur. Therefore, sprinkling should be continuous, in extreme cases it can be carried out with interruptions of several minutes.

Ways of watering the garden and vegetable garden: surface method and sprinkling system

There are three methods of garden irrigation: surface irrigation, sprinkler irrigation and subsoil irrigation.

There are several surface watering methods, for garden plot not all of them fit.

1. Surface irrigation in furrows. It is carried out as follows. In the aisles, furrows 20-30 cm wide are made with a slight slope, into which water is supplied from a watering hose. At the end of watering, after a while, the furrows are closed.

2. Surface watering in bowls. When applying this method, they dig a hole in the form of a bowl under the crown of a fruit tree. The size of the bowl, i.e. its diameter, depends on the age of the tree, the density of plantings, but it should not be less than the projection of the crown of the tree itself. An earthen roller 20-25 cm high is poured along the edges of the finished hole. The bowls under neighboring trees are connected by a common groove. Water is supplied to this groove from a watering hose, and already through the groove the water enters the wells.

When using irrigation by sprinkling, moisture gets not only into the soil, but also into the air. Water entering the soil through the air is enriched with oxygen, carbon dioxide and nitrogen compounds. Sprinkler irrigation differs from surface irrigation in that surface irrigation requires careful planning and leveling. land plot. This is due to the fact that water during irrigation does not move over the surface of the soil, thereby not washing away its fertile layer.

Before watering the garden by sprinkling, the soil must be loosened, and if necessary, fertilizers are applied. For such watering, special devices are required - sprinklers. These devices can be fan-shaped, pulsed, or pistol-shaped. They spray water at different heights and in different directions, and the height, direction and even size of the drops can be adjusted. Devices are installed under the crowns of shrubs and fruit trees and used for watering the surface layer.

Water the garden, lawns and flower beds by sprinkling only in the evening, when there is no bright sun. If you do this during the day, the leaves of the plants will get burned, since the water droplets act as a collective lens and focus the sun's rays.

Methods for irrigating an orchard

There are several ways to irrigate a garden, the most popular of which are semi-soil and drip.

Subsoil irrigation. When using this irrigation method, a system of pottery, asbestos-cement or polyethylene pipes, through the openings of which water under pressure is supplied to the soil. Sometimes, with such irrigation of the orchard, along with water, fertilizers are also supplied to the roots of the plant.

The main disadvantage of this method is its high cost. Laying pipes throughout the site is a very laborious task, and should be carried out at the planning stage of the garden plot and construction. In addition, the quality of irrigation water often leaves much to be desired, so the pipes serve for a relatively short time, quickly become clogged and silted up.

Drip irrigation. This is a type of subsurface irrigation. This method is very convenient and easy to perform. Drip irrigation is carried out according to the system plastic pipes small diameter. Under one fruit tree or berry bush, 2-3 droppers are placed at a depth of 30-35 cm. The advantage of this type of irrigation is that water consumption is reduced several times, and it is also possible to constantly maintain the necessary soil moisture. In addition, fertilizer application can be carried out along with the water supply.

Rules for watering plants in the garden and in the garden

Rational watering of plants according to the rules includes several mandatory components.

1. Optimum water temperature for irrigation.

2. Watering method. It is possible to water under the root and together with the leaves, as well as sprinkling (watering through a sprayer from above). Sprinkling can be not only superficial (with wetting of leaves and branches), but also basal - in this case, only the soil in the near-stem circle is wetted, but with the help of sprinkler nozzles, due to which there is no erosion of the soil and leaching of nutrients from it due to the large water pressure. For different plants different periods years, these types of irrigation are required in different proportions.

3. Watering time. Usually watering is carried out in the morning or in the evening. In the hot period of the day, when sprinkling, burns on the leaves may appear, and it is better to water under the root not at the very height of the day.

4. The amount of water. Irrigation rates usually indicate either a unit area or a single plant. For trees and large shrubs, the latter option is more typical.

5. But there are also general watering rules. applicable to all fruit and berry crops.

6. Soil moisture should be optimal. Waterlogged soil - serious problem, as well as drying out of the soil, since it can reduce the plant's resistance to pests and diseases, worsen soil aeration. A lump of optimally moistened soil should be compressed in the hand without water release and without spilling. This indicator is suitable even for sandy soils.

7. The rate of moisture absorption by the soil depends on the mechanical composition of the soil. Heavy loams are more slowly soaked with water, so it is better to moisten the soil with not too much water pressure (for a longer time), but using more of it. Sandy soils need to be watered more often, because moisture is not able to linger in such soils for a long time, and the soil dries out faster. Observing this rule of watering the garden, clay soils are watered less often so as not to cause waterlogging, because moisture can “stand” in them for a long time.

8. Watering woody plants should be rare and plentiful. Frequent watering "a little bit" is more harmful than useful. Watering is carried out, as a rule, to the depth of the active (thin, absorbent) roots of the plant.

9. The average rate of one-time watering for trees aged 3–5 years is 50–80 liters per plant or more. The same indicator for trees aged 7-10 years is 120-150 liters.

10. Fruit-bearing trees and shrubs need more abundant watering than young plants of the same species.

11. Any watering under the root(not only moisture charging) can be carried out into the annular grooves. After watering, if necessary, fertilizers are poured into the grooves, covered with soil or mulching material.

12. You should not water trees and shrubs in the near-stem funnel, and even more so pour water on the root neck of the tree. With such watering, moisture will flow in excess to the main (tap) root and in deficiency - to the peripheral (active) roots. But it is the peripheral roots that are absorbent, i.e., absorbing the main amount useful substances and moisture for the plant. Therefore, the main place for watering is a circle, which is a projection of the crown on the surface of the earth, as well as the soil near this circle. In general, watering in the near-trunk circle should be uniform, without "dry" places.

13. Unusual, but effective method glaze- with the help of wells previously made under the tree with a diameter of 10–12 cm and the depth necessary for irrigating a certain crop. Wells are drilled and filled with pebbles, crushed stone, broken bricks or coarse sand. One well is arranged per m2 of the near-stem circle area.

14. During normal watering with a hose it is difficult to determine the volume of water that has entered the soil. It is possible, before starting such irrigation, by turning on the water at a certain pressure, to calculate how long it will take for water with such pressure to fill a container, for example, with a volume of 10 liters. Then, by simple calculations, it is easy to find out how long it will take to water a particular plant in this way.

15. Seasonal watering is essential, as a rule, during the following periods of vegetation of trees and shrubs: before spring bud break; 2-3 weeks after the end of flowering; 2-3 weeks before harvest. The rest of the time, watering is carried out as needed and for special purposes (water-charging, anti-frost, refreshing, fertilizing).

16. Tree or shrub feeding area usually determined approximately by the diameter of the crown (slightly wider than the projection of the crown on the surface of the earth). This indicator is useful to know for calculating irrigation.

17. If during watering a young tree or shrub surface roots are exposed, they should be immediately covered with moist soil.

To understand whether a particular plant needs watering, it is necessary to assess the condition of the soil next to it. Its moisture should not be determined from the top layer, which is most often dry (this is due to the fact that most of the moisture is lost from the soil surface during evaporation). You should pay attention to the active layer of the soil, where the root system of the plant is located. If we talk about fruit trees, such as apple, pear, then this layer is at a depth of 90-120 cm, for cherries, plums and apricots - at a depth of 80 cm, for berry crops - 50 cm.

To assess soil moisture along the periphery of the crown, plants dig a small hole up to 1 m deep, take a lump of soil from the wall of the hole and squeeze it in their hand. If a lump forms and does not break when falling from a height of 1.5 m, then the soil moisture is about 70%. If the lump of earth crumbles, this means that the soil needs watering.

The optimal level of soil moisture is considered to be a level equal to 75-80%. In order to keep moisture in the soil for as long as possible, after watering it is loosened and peat or rotted sawdust is introduced into it.

How to properly water trees and other plants in the garden

And a few more tips on how to properly water the garden to ensure abundant flowering and good yields.

First watering necessary for plants in the spring, when the buds have not blossomed. During this period, the phase of its active growth begins, and it really needs moisture.

Second watering should be carried out approximately 15-20 days after the end of the growing season of trees and shrubs, since it is at this time that the growth of the ovaries occurs, and if the soil is too dry, then just set fruits may fall off.

Third watering spend 15-20 days before removing fruits from trees and shrubs.

If the third watering is carried out immediately before harvesting, this can lead to falling off and cracking of the fruit.

And the last watering is carried out in late autumn, when active leaf fall begins. It is also called moisture-charging.

Early varieties of apple and pear trees require less water than later ones.

If you carry out excessive watering of pear trees, they can suffer from excess moisture.

Stone fruits of fruit trees (apricot, cherry, plum) should be watered less frequently than pome fruits (apple, pear).

Expecting a rich harvest from certain trees or shrubs, special attention should be paid to watering these particular trees or shrubs. They will need more water than trees with lower yields or those that are resting from fruiting.

Rain watering helps save budding trees from frost, which often occurs in spring. Swollen buds and flower buds are the most vulnerable parts of fruit trees, and they must be protected from exposure to low and negative temperatures in order to preserve the crop.

Young fruit trees need to be watered less than adults. This is especially true in the second half of summer, since excessive moisture will provoke additional growth of shoots that will freeze during the winter.

With frequent use of fertilizers and the accumulation of salts in the soil of the garden, which harms the growth of most plants, flush watering is carried out. A large amount of water washes out the salts dissolved in it to a great depth, clearing the soil layer in which the bulk of the roots are located. For flush irrigation, 2000-8000 liters of water are consumed for every 10 m2 of soil. The need for it may arise if plants have been used for feeding plants for a long time in in large numbers mineral fertilizers, natural organic fertilizers (compost, manure, peat) do not cause such an effect, although they also need to be dosed.

Plants require water for normal growth and development, although the amount varies greatly depending on the type of plant.

As a rule, water is absorbed by the roots from the substrate, although epiphytic plants absorb it to a greater extent by the leaves than by the roots. Evaporation of moisture occurs from the entire above-ground surface of the plant, mainly from the surface of the leaves. As a result, a suction force is created, due to which water is constantly absorbed from the soil. Therefore, the substrate must always contain enough moisture to meet the needs of the plant.

But the roots also need air, which is in the gaps between the particles of the substrate. If these voids are filled with water, the roots will rot and the plant will die.

That's why watering indoor plants- a delicate question, since these plants have very little soil around the roots.

more plants dies from waterlogging of the soil than from any other cause.

Dishes for watering indoor plants.

Most Wanted equipment for watering indoor plants - this is watering can with long spout , although many devices have been invented to determine the plant's need for watering or to carry it out when the owner is not at home.

If you put a sieve on the spout, you can wash off the dust from the leaves, for which you need to use soft water; hard water leaves lime stains on them.

Some indoor plants that require highly moist soil (for example, cyperus) can be placed in instead of watering. tray with water so that the water reaches ground level. If the tray is wide enough, then the constant evaporation of water from it will create a more humid atmosphere.

Use to increase humidity. manual sprayer .

How often to water indoor plants?

Each plant has its own water requirements. That, how often to water indoor plants depends on many factors. Watering frequency - the value is not constant; it depends on the size of the plant, the size of the pot, on environmental conditions and especially on the time of year . Therefore, you need to be guided by your observations.

Plants from deserts, swamps, plants from climates with variable humidity have found shelter in our rooms. Accordingly, they are watered differently.

Often, when they see wilted leaves, they begin to water the plant more abundantly. This is not entirely correct, since there are many reasons for wilting. Feel the soil in the pot: if it is dry, the plant really needs to be watered, but if the soil is damp, wilting may be due to over watering. At the same time, the roots, not receiving enough oxygen, gradually die off, then putrefactive bacteria settle on them, and the plant begins to hurt. Watering should be reduced. Let the roots breathe, let the plant rest from the water.

Wilting is also caused by pests or pathogens. And in this case, watering should be reduced.

Withering of the leaves of indoor plants can occur under the influence of sunlight, on the first clear day after a long cloudy weather. And before sinning for improper watering, other errors should be excluded that give a similar reaction of a houseplant.

Do not turn watering into a regular ritual that is performed, for example, every Sunday. Each plant has its own correct time interval between waterings - balsam may require daily watering in summer, and astrophytum cactus does not need water at all in winter.

The earth in pots should, as a rule, be in a moderately moist state. Do not allow abrupt transitions from lack of moisture to its excess. This means that watering should be regular and uniform. The need for indoor plants in water is determined by their specific features: the structure aboveground organs, the power of the root system, etc.

The interval between watering in different plants varies depending on the season and changes in the conditions of detention.

Araucaria

Plants with succulent, fleshy leaves (such as agave, aloe, etc.) need less water than plants with large leaves, which sometimes need to be watered twice a day.

A newly rooted cutting needs much less water than a mature plant.

For bulbous plants, excess moisture is harmful. It is best to water them by directing the stream of water not at the bulb, but closer to the walls of the pot, or water from a pan.

There are plants that are very sensitive to lack of moisture, such as araucaria. When its branches begin to hang down, then no amount of watering will help.

In winter, during the dormant period, the growth of indoor plants slows down or stops, at this time indoor plants need less water and water them much less often, sometimes up to 2-3 times a month, waterlogging of the soil should be avoided.

On the contrary, in spring and summer, when the houseplant has a period of growth and flowering, watering is needed more often (perhaps from one to three times a week). With a slight overdrying, young shoots of a houseplant, buds and flowers may suffer.

The need for water increases with increasing temperature and increasing light intensity. Plants in small pots and those that have not been transplanted for a long time require more frequent watering than plants in large containers or those that have just been transplanted. Plants in ceramic pots should be watered more frequently than those in plastic; plants in double pots require less frequent watering.

There is a golden rule for watering indoor plants - it is better to water less, but more often than less often and in large quantities.

Water for watering indoor plants.

Watering indoor plants is advised only with soft water - rain, river or pond. The most familiar rainwater. It is to this water that the leaves of most plants are accustomed, so it is best suited for spraying.

Hard water (including well water) containing various salts should be avoided.

The main element, the content of which must be taken into account when watering, is calcium. It enters the water as it passes through limestone, chalk, dolomite, gypsum and other calcareous rocks. At the same time, the water becomes hard (soap foam is poorly formed in it). The hardness of water is due to the formation of scale on the walls of kettles, plaque on water taps and pipes.

Exactly the same plaque of poorly soluble calcium salts is formed when plants are watered with hard water. Remember that not all plants can tolerate an increased concentration of calcium. Of course, this element is necessary for the normal life of any plant. However, you only apply other fertilizers from time to time, and calcium with each watering.

Aroids, azaleas, orchids, ferns, and camellias are especially resistant to hard water.

Those houseplants that grow on calcareous soils tolerate watering with hard water well.

But, given the state of our ecology, the pollution of natural reservoirs, as well as the possible pollution of rainwater by industrial emissions (if you live in an industrial area or not far from it), watering indoor plants tap water- not such a bad way out.

However, before watering houseplants, chlorinated tap water must be left to stand for at least a day so that the chlorine has time to evaporate.

Do not use settled water to the last drop. If sediment has formed at the bottom, then it will be better for the plants if it does not fall into the pot.

The water temperature for watering indoor plants should be at least at least room temperature. This rule is especially important when watering tropical houseplants. Cacti are recommended to be watered more than warm water. Watering indoor plants cold water can cause root rot, bud drop and even plant death.

On the contrary, watering indoor plants with warm water in a cold room is also not desirable, because. this will lead to premature growth of the houseplant.

Proper watering of indoor plants.

For most plants during the growth period, the substrate should be kept slightly moist. Water the plant until water begins to seep through the drainage holes in the pot. Leave the plant for 10 to 30 minutes, and then drain off the water that remains on the pan. Do not re-water until the surface of the substrate is dry to the touch: the surface of the substrate dries first and the substrate itself is still moist inside.

Warm conditions require more frequent watering.

In winter, for most plants, the amount of moisture should be limited. During this period, growth slows down or stops altogether, so the roots require less water, and they are more prone to rotting in cool conditions.

Some species require frequent watering, and they should not be allowed to dry out; and a plant such as cyperus has adapted to the constant presence of roots in the water.

Some plants, such as cacti, prefer dry conditions and need only a small amount of moisture.

How to properly water indoor plants?

How to water indoor plants.

There are several ways to water indoor plants. They depend on the dishes in which you planted the plants, pallets and on the characteristics of the plant itself.

The most traditional and easiest way to water is from above. The surface of the substrate is moistened with a watering can. The soil should not be eroded with a sharp stream, it is better to water in small portions so that the water does not stagnate, flooding the bases of the leaves and stems. It is undesirable to spray water on the leaves when watering. It is best to use a watering can with a long spout for this.

The appearance of water in the pan is a sign that the plant has been watered enough. Wait until all excess moisture has collected in the pan, and then drain it. With this method of watering, the mineral salts necessary for plant growth are quickly washed out of the pot. To compensate for this loss, feed the plants regularly, especially during the growth period.

However, many plants, such as cyclamens, do not like splashing water on their leaves, causing them to rot. In this case, bottom irrigation is used. With bottom irrigation, water is poured directly into the pan. Due to capillary forces, water rises up the substrate and evaporates from the surface. After 30 minutes, excess water must be drained from the pan.

Lower watering can also be used if the clod of earth is very dry and a gap has formed between the wall of the pot and the soil. With top watering, water quickly drains into the pan, without moistening the substrate, and only by lowering the pot into water, good wetting is achieved.

Lower watering, compared to the upper one, has the opposite drawback: salts accumulate in an excessive amount in the pot. One of the signs of this is the formation of a lime crust on the soil. This crust can serve as a source of infection for plants, in addition, the roots of many plants are damaged from excess salts. The crust is removed with the top layer of earth 1.5 - 2 cm and a new substrate is poured into the pot.

If the substrate is very dry, place the pot up to the brim in a container of water and leave until completely moistened, but do not allow water to overflow over the top of the pot. Allow the water to drain properly before placing the plant on the tray.

By "bathing" the pot in water, Saintpaulias, cyclamens and all other plants that do not tolerate water on the leaves are watered.

When watering the bottom, do not forget to feed the plants. However, shortly before feeding, rinse the earthen ball by watering from above or repeatedly lowering the pot into the water.

Types of watering indoor plants.

Infrequent watering of indoor plants.

Houseplants are left dry for days, weeks, months. Rare watering is suitable for cacti and succulents, as well as deciduous tuberous and bulbous indoor plants that have a dormant period (crinum, gloxinia, hippeastrum, caladium).

1. Allow the substrate to dry half to two thirds before watering. Check the moisture content of the substrate with a stick.

2. Water the plant from above - water should be absorbed into the substrate, but not flow out onto the pan.

3. Again check the moisture content of the substrate with a stick, add a little more water if necessary.

Moderate watering of indoor plants.

Indoor plants are not watered immediately after the earthen coma dries out, but after one or two days, that is, when the earth in the pot dries out.

Moderate watering is applied to indoor plants with fleshy or strongly pubescent stems and leaves (paperomia, columna), with thick roots and rhizomes (palms, dracaena, aspidistra, aroid), as well as with water-bearing tubers on the roots (asparagus, chlorophytum, arrowroot) and bulbous .

For some types of indoor plants, light drying is a prerequisite during the dormant period, as it stimulates the laying and ripening of flower buds (zygocactus, clivia).

1. Allow the top 13 mm of substrate to dry before watering. Check moisture by touch.

2. Water the plant from above until the entire substrate is completely damp, but not wet.

3. If some water leaks into the pan, drain it and stop watering. Do not let the plant stand in water.