Wall from a profile with your own hands. Building a drywall wall with your own hands is easy! Types of solid partitions

Drywall refers to materials with which you can create unique designs and completely transform any apartment. It can be both interior partitions and sheathing of existing reinforced concrete structures. This approach to repair will make it possible to re-plan the apartment and hide the shortcomings of existing walls without much difficulty. Understanding how to make a drywall wall is easy, especially if you watch the tutorial video.

The main characteristics of drywall

This material has a number of undeniable advantages compared to other types of wall decoration in residential and non-residential premises. Here are just the most significant of them:

• affordable price (the main plus at the present time);
• ease of installation with your own hands;
• environmental Safety;
• moisture resistance and fire resistance;
• the ability to give the desired shape;
• ease of installation of lighting, noise and sound insulation.

What drywall is better to make a wall? To do this, you can use several options for sheets from the manufacturer Knauf:

• standard sheet (hl) for dry rooms;
• moisture resistant sheet (GKLV), almost universal and suitable for rooms with any humidity;
• fire-resistant sheet (hklo) for rooms with an increased risk of fire;
• a sheet that combines the two previous advantages - fire resistance and moisture resistance (gklvo).

For an ordinary city apartment (except for bathrooms), it is better to use ordinary sheets, with which you can form any figured structures. Below is how to make a wall without outside help, conduct an electrician and complete the finish.

Tool selection

Any building and repair work impossible without carefully selected tools and Supplies. Therefore, before thinking about how to make a high-quality drywall wall, it is worth drawing up a drawing of the future design and an estimate.

The project must be drawn up taking into account all the nuances - location bearing walls, lighting and interior doors. In addition, it is necessary to indicate the actual dimensions (work to scale). This approach will allow you to correctly calculate the consumption of materials and avoid unnecessary expenses.

The list of "consumables" will look like this:

• guide profiles for mounting on the ceiling, floor and walls of different sizes (50x40.100x40.75x40 mm);
• rack profiles (50x50, 100x50, 75x50) for installation in load-bearing profiles;
• self-tapping screws for fastening profiles (usually take 8 pieces per square meter of ceiling);
• self-tapping screws for mounting hl (40 pieces per sheet);
• dowels (dimensions 6x40 mm) for fastening the carrier profile (5 units for each);
• tape for sealing;
• drywall;
• putty;
• sickle;
• primer;
• dye.

GCL sheets are selected depending on the size of the structure, but taking into account the margin for cutting. How to choose the right tool to make a drywall wall? All inventory that will be used can be used in the future to create ceilings. Therefore, you should not save and buy only high-quality products. Here is an example list:

• roulette;
• pencil;
• plumb;
• crayon;
• level (long and short);
• screwdriver;
• perforator;
• scissors for metal;
• a hammer;
• sandpaper;
• roller, spatula, brushes.

After the drawing is ready and the materials are purchased, you can proceed with the installation.

Installation of the frame, installation of sockets and switches

For any work on the installation of frame structures from HL, markings should be made. How to do it to install a drywall wall? First of all, you will need a tape measure and a plumb line. Marking can be applied both with chalk and pencil on all work surfaces - ceiling, floor.

After that, the installation of the carrier profile begins. With the help of dowels, they are attached to all pre-set marks. This procedure must be done with the utmost care, otherwise you can get an unstable, shaky structure. It is better to keep the distance between the dowels about 70 cm, but in some cases more frequent placement will be required. If at this stage questions arise, then you should once again consult with a specialist on how to make a wall from a metal profile.

The next is the turn of installing rack profiles, which must be fixed to the carrier and ceiling. They are cut in height and fixed at a distance of up to 0.6 m using self-tapping screws. Between the rack profiles, you can additionally fix their segments. This solution will improve the stability of the entire structure. If you plan to install fixtures or shelves in the future, it is best to reduce the distance between the profiles.

After completing the assembly of the frame, you should think about three important points, without which the completion of the repair is not possible: electrical wiring, laying noise and sound insulation. The main elements of electrical wiring are sockets, switches and Wall lights. How to make connections in a plasterboard wall in compliance with all safety measures?

For laying, only wires in special protective non-combustible boxes should be used. Junction boxes should be mounted up to 20 cm from ceilings. They must have a protective cover and all work on their installation is carried out in accordance with the PUE. After that, a heater is laid, which will provide sufficient sound insulation of the room.

Plasterboard wall cladding and finishing

When the electrics and soundproofing are installed, you can begin the sheathing process. How to make a stable and high-quality wall from drywall?

Rule number 1. Sheets are best placed in a checkerboard pattern. It will look like this: whole sheets below, then their parts and vice versa. Sheathing sequence: one wall, laying communications and sound insulation, the second wall.

Rule number 2. For a quality construction, it is best to make a two-layer sheathing, although they often stop at a single-layer one in order to save material.

Rule number 3. The sheets are mounted using self-tapping screws every 25 cm. Important: the seams and joints of the first and second layers must not match! After that, it remains to make holes for sockets and switches, and you can proceed to the finishing.

Now a little about how to make a drywall wall ready for painting. Sequence of work:

• initial primer;
• basic putty;
• gluing the seams with a sickle;
• leveling putty;
• the second layer of primer;
• painting or wallpapering.

The primer is applied to the wall with a roller, then the seams are glued and the surface is puttied. For these purposes, gypsum or polymer putty is suitable. Joints and traces of self-tapping screws should be well processed. The resulting excess can be removed with sandpaper. Next, the surface is primed again and painted and wallpapered.

It is better to choose pastel colors for the walls, the same tone as the ceiling (it can be a little darker). Any color options and wallpapers, both with and without a pattern, are suitable for a white ceiling.

There is a lot of information out there on how to make walls out of drywall sheets. But I wanted to learn more about how to mount curly partitions. What design options are suitable for a particular room in the apartment? After all, with the help of gypsum craton, you can divide the room into zones, visually reduce or increase it. The material allows you to realize the most daring design ideas both on the walls and on the ceiling.

Make a redevelopment in the apartment, divide the space in a private house or just embody the original design decision- a drywall wall is a universal option. And thanks to the ease of installation, even a beginner can handle its installation!

What you need to know about profiles and drywall?

The desired dimensions of the rooms will be somewhat different from those planned, because part of the area will be “eaten up” by the new wall. To understand what to expect in the end, you need to know the width of the profiles and the thickness of the drywall sheets (GKL).

Characteristics of profiles and their purpose

Before you buy materials and start marking rooms, you need to understand the purpose and differences between the profiles. So, according to their purpose, they are guides (PN) and rack-mount (PS).

As the name implies, the guide profile is attached to the floor and ceiling and vertical racks are already inserted into it.

• D - rack and guide profiles 60x27 mm and 27x28 mm, respectively, designed to fix drywall on one side only;
• W - profiles for the formation of a full-fledged wall, sewn on both sides;
• C - rack profiles with a rib height of 50 mm;
• U - guides with a rib height of 40 mm;
• 50, 75, 100 - the width of the profile, which must match the racks and rails.

For example, marking CW 100 means that this is a rack wall profile with dimensions of 50x100 mm. It requires a guide profile UW 100 (40x100 mm). When choosing a profile, you need to focus on the desired thickness of the insulation / sound insulation. So, for profiles with a width of 75 mm, a standard insulation laid in one layer (for example, mineral wool) is suitable.

The length of the profiles also depends on their purpose. The guides are produced in the same length - 3 m, but the racks can be 3, 3.5 and 4 m. The thing is that it is highly recommended not to “build up” the guides in height - this will weaken the entire structure and can lead to cracks. Therefore, before buying racks, you need to measure the height of the ceilings.

Drywall sheets - thickness, dimensions and characteristics

Wall drywall is available with a thickness of 12.5 mm - this is its minimum allowable value. The load on the wall in this case cannot exceed 40 kg per square meter. Such a sheet is quite enough for finishing for painting or even laying tiles with your own hands. If you plan to install heavy equipment, shelves or other interior elements, you should choose sheets:

• 15 mm thick - for loads from 40 to 50 kg;
• 18 mm thick - for loads up to 70 kg;
• double sheets - for large loads from 70 kg.

The dimensions of the sheets are standard - the width is 120 cm, and the height can be from 2 m to 3 m in increments of 0.5 m. Also, do not forget that only moisture-resistant GKL is suitable for the wall in the bathroom. Also, fire-resistant sheets are becoming more and more popular - they do not flare up, but slowly smolder and quickly go out in the absence of a source of fire.

Based on these data, it is possible to determine the dimensions of the future room - at least 8.75 cm must be retreated from the initial markup (7.5 cm for the profile + 1.25 cm for drywall). If it is necessary to lay in the walls water pipes or large diameter corrugated cables, the walls are built from two rows of CD and UD profiles, and the width of the wall will depend on the chosen distance between them.

Plasterboard wall installation

Often, there are no perfectly even walls, especially in houses of old buildings, therefore, when dividing a room, you need to bind not to one, but to two opposite walls. This will minimize the visual unevenness of the future space.

If all surfaces are sheathed with drywall, before making a new wall, first, with the help of profiles and plasterboards, the existing ones are maximally leveled. This will allow you to achieve even right angles, which will greatly simplify the finishing work in the future.

Profile mounting

Installing profiles is quite simple, but requires a lot of precision. To align the racks, it is advisable to purchase a laser level to speed up the process, but you can limit yourself to the usual plumb line. Installation is carried out in stages:

1. The profiles adjacent to the walls, floor and ceiling are pre-pasted with sealing tape. It performs a shock-absorbing and soundproofing function.



2. PNs are attached to the floor and ceiling along a pre-marked line in increments of up to 1 m. wooden surface- self-tapping screws 50 cm long, and to concrete - dowels 75 cm long. In the second case, it is necessary to pre-drill holes with a perforator.



3. Both load-bearing and rack-mount profiles can be fixed to the walls. It is important to remember that it must be continuous, therefore, with a ceiling height of more than 3 m, only longer substations will have to be used.
4. If a doorway is provided, a gap is left in the floor profile in this place for the width of the opening. It is important to decide in advance on the width of the door - if the standard leaf is 80 cm, then the doorway must be made 88 cm (to install the door frame).
5. PS begin to install from the doorway - they will determine its width. First, the profile is fixed on the floor, after which it is leveled and fixed on the ceiling.
6. The step of installing the racks is any convenient. Often they are placed to fasten sheets along the edges and in the center - therefore, you need to know in advance the dimensions of the plasterboard. The joints of the sheets should fall in the middle of the PS, this must be taken into account when installing profiles.



7. The more often the step of the racks, the higher the strength of the wall, but also the higher the final cost. Also, to make it more rigid, a wooden beam or a supporting profile is inserted into the profiles that limit the doorway. For the same purpose, transverse struts made of PS are used, reinforced with the same beam. They are installed in places of horizontal joints of the GKL.





8. A jumper is also installed above the doorway. The height depends on the size of the door. For a standard two-meter canvas, the height should be 205 cm.
9. The jumper is made of PS, which is cut 20-30 cm longer. On each side, retreating from the edge of 10-15 cm, respectively, cuts of 45⁰ are made on the side walls so that the bevel is directed outward. The cut sides are folded down, giving the profile a U-shape. (9) The vertical sides are put on the posts and fastened with metal screws. The corners sticking out after cutting on the horizontal part are also screwed to the racks - this ensures maximum fastening reliability.

Important nuances of drywall installation

The sheets are attached to the profiles with special self-tapping screws with a press washer - they do not pierce the cardboard, but are well embedded in the sheet. To improve the quality of seaming, all cut edges are chamfered from the upper side (for factory edges, this is not necessary, it is already there).

The layout of any living space is a purely personal matter, and what one likes may not suit others radically. In order to be able to make your own adjustments, reshape the space for yourself, there is a simple but reliable way that involves the use of drywall sheets, which even a beginner can work with. The main thing is to know exactly how to make a wall from this material.

Peculiarities

The house is a real fortress for everyone, therefore it is so important to equip it in such a way as to feel confident, comfortable and good in it. Buying a new home or changing the number of occupants of an old one may require redevelopment of the space so that everyone is comfortable in it. In an old house, additional space may be needed if there is a replenishment in the family or one of the relatives needs a personal closed space in which to be alone.

The issue of planning in free-type new buildings becomes especially acute., where there are no clear boundaries of the room, and each tenant can make the design that he likes. You can build brick walls, this has its advantages, because such a design will last a long time and nothing will happen to it. But it is not easy to build such piers, and most importantly, it requires a large amount of materials. For those who have never laid a brick, it will not be easy to cope with this task and make a high-quality and durable partition.

In view of all these circumstances, one of the most simple and convenient options is the construction of plasterboard walls. Such designs are easy to make on your own and even non-professionals can do this process. In this matter, it is important to know what is needed to build a wall and what difficulties you will face.

Plasterboard wall has a number of important advantages compared to brick, it is easy to install, does not create a lot of weight on the floor due to the frame of thin profiles and simple sheets, the thickness of which does not exceed a centimeter.

Another factor that can be considered an advantage of such structures is the possibility of erecting partitions, walls and partitions without obtaining the appropriate permission for redevelopment, which will speed up the process and eliminate unnecessary procedures. For work on creating new boundaries of the premises, it is necessary to determine what and where will change, mark the territory and calculate how much materials will be needed.

Drywall sheets are quite compact in thickness and when stacked one on top of the other, a lot of material can be brought at once. Its weight is also small.

In order for the new walls to be warm and not let in sound, insulation and sound insulation are placed inside the structure. It is possible to conduct wiring in it, install a switch and a socket so that the functionality of the room does not suffer from its redevelopment.

When planning the alteration of large-scale objects, it is important to understand how justified the use of this or that material will be, therefore it is simply necessary to clearly understand what the pros and cons of drywall are and what exactly it will allow you to create in a residential area.

Pros and cons

The use of drywall made it possible to obtain fantastic opportunities that were previously extremely difficult, if not impossible, to implement using brick as the main material and building walls, partitions and partitions from it.

From this material indoors you can make:

• a wall that will divide the room;
• a partition that will allow you to zone the space or give a decorative effect due to an intricate design;
• complex decorative design and achieve original forms and invoices in the room.

A feature of drywall is the ease of working with it. In order to build a wall, you need to form a frame and sheathe it with sheets. The frame structure can be either from metal profiles or from wood. The resulting structure is sheathed with drywall on both sides.

Sheets can be ordinary, waterproof and flame retardant, their choice will be dictated by the place where the new wall or partition is being created. When one wall is sheathed, glass or mineral wool must be placed inside the structure so that the piers not only help to divide the room into two parts, but also perform the function of heating and sound protection.

Among the advantages of this material are:

• ease of installation of structures of any type and complexity;
• the ability to erect structures of any shape and type;
• when carrying out work on the construction of walls or partitions, you do not need to have any special or expensive tools;
• inside the wall, you can put wiring, a telephone cable, an air duct, which makes it also functional;

• the resulting wall will be absolutely even and smooth, therefore, the work on its alignment will be reduced to grouting the joints between the plates and puttying the entire surface for further decorative work;
• after all preparatory work the finished wall can be painted in any color, wallpapered or even tiled.

This material also has its drawbacks, which include:

• change in the properties of the material upon contact with water, drywall can swell from this;
• any load must be thought out in advance and the place of attachment of the picture, sconce, lamp or lamp must be initially strengthened;
• too heavy objects should not be installed on this surface, which should be initially taken into account when planning and determining the places of each decor element.

So, with the help of drywall, you can make a wall of any shape and appearance that you can imagine, while sound insulation and heat in the room will be at high level, because for this, the corresponding filling is placed inside the structure. Sockets with switches will allow you not to limit the possibilities of a new space.

Materials and tools

When planning the construction of a drywall wall, you need to choose the right materials and have everything with you. necessary tools so that the work process takes as little time as possible and does not take a lot of effort and energy. In order for the wall to be strong enough, a frame is erected for it from a metal profile. There are different profiles for different purposes.

Most often, for such structures, two options are used:

• Profile, but which will be attached directly to the drywall itself. It is smaller and conventionally designated as "D".
• A profile with which the main frame of the wall will be erected. It should be more powerful and larger, conventionally designated as "W".

For each of the above profiles, there are two more options, one of which is a support and is designated as "C", and the second is a guide and has the designation "U". The guide profile is simpler, it has the form of a U-shaped structure and smooth walls. The support profile is inserted end-to-end into it. It also has an additional difference from the guide in the form of ribbing, which gives greater strength to the material and does not allow spontaneous bending.

As the main load-bearing element of the frame, you need to use a supporting and smaller profile, to which the drywall sheet will be attached. Its size is 60 by 27 millimeters. As guides for fixing this design, you need to use a narrow guide profile with dimensions of 28 by 27 millimeters. In order to form a wall frame, you need to take a supporting and large profile with dimensions of 50 by 50, 50 by 75 or 50 by 100 millimeters. As a guide for this design, a large guide profile with dimensions of 50 by 40, 75 by 40, 100 by 40 is used.

There is another version of the profile, which is a thicker and reinforced version of the large supporting profile. For the construction of simple walls, only wide profiles are used, but for more complex structures, in which it is planned to lay any communications, it is already necessary to use thin profile options.

In order for the profile to be connected into a frame, you need to have a direct suspension or use a universal connector. The twisting process is carried out using small flea screws, which have a drill at the end. In addition, special self-tapping screws for metal are used, which have a countersunk head. To fix the frame to the wall, you can not do without plastic dowels and impact screws.

The optimal thickness of drywall sheets for the wall is 12.5 millimeters. A mandatory element should be a wide chamfer on the side of the sheet. Depending on the room, you need to choose the appropriate material - a moisture-resistant sheet is needed for the kitchen and bathroom, and an ordinary one is also suitable for an ordinary room. A distinctive feature will be the color - for moisture-resistant sheets it is green, for ordinary sheets it is gray.

Thus, the crate of a drywall structure is most often made of a metal profile, but in some cases wood can also be used. Depending on the type of construction, it will be possible to choose one or another material and choose its thickness.

Tools that will be needed during the construction of walls from plasterboard sheets:

• tape measure not less than 3 meters long;
• level by 80 or 120 centimeters;
• plumb lines;
• fishing line with a rope;

• network or cordless screwdriver, impact drill with nozzles for self-tapping screws;
• perforator;
• scissors that can cut metal;
• construction knife for cutting drywall sheets;
• plasterboard grater.

frame

In order to make quality and flat wall from drywall, first of all, the construction of a metal frame will be required, on which the sheets will already be attached. In order for the installation to be carried out correctly, certain patterns must be taken into account. The first step will be marking the territory where the construction of the structure is planned. The next step is to check the evenness of the corners.

Due to the fact that the walls in the room are often not very even, when building a new wall, you need to focus not only on one wall, but also take into account two opposite sides. If the walls have too uneven corners, the easiest way is to cover each of them with drywall, which will align them. Only after that, approach the installation of a new profile.

To level the racks, a laser level is best., but if it is not there, you can apply a simple plumb line. Before mounting the profile for walls, ceiling and floor, you need to paste it over with a special sealing tape. It will help in cushioning and soundproofing. Before you start fastening the profiles, you need to make a clear marking of the places on the floor, wall and shelf, where the base for the frame will be attached.

When everything is ready, you can begin to fix the guide profile, taking a step up to one meter. If the fastening goes to a wooden surface, then the distance is 50 centimeters and the adhesion goes with the help of self-tapping screws. If the work is done with a concrete surface, then the frame is screwed with dowels in increments of 75 centimeters. In this case, it is important to make holes in advance.

Both the carrier and the rack profile can be attached to the wall, but it is important that it be solid. If the height of the ceilings is more than three meters, then longer materials will have to be used for the construction. In the event that a door is planned in a new wall, it is important for it to leave an opening of the desired width on the floor. In the case of standard door dimensions of 80 centimeters, it is important to make the opening 8 centimeters wider in order to be able to install the door frame.

The rack profile is installed from the doorway and determines its width. The first place for fixing the profile is the floor, then the level of the entire structure is checked and it is attached to the ceiling. Racks can be installed with any step, it depends on the drywall sheets. Most often they are installed as a fastening tool for sheets at the edge and in the middle of the entire structure. The joint of two sheets should lie clearly in the middle of the profile.

If racks are installed frequently, then the strength of the wall increases, it will withstand a lot, but the cost of work also increases. As for the profile framing the doorway, for greater rigidity it can be placed wooden block or carrier profile. You can also use cross braces, which are also reinforced with a bar and installed where there is a horizontal drywall joint.

The doorway on top is additionally equipped with a jumper. The installation height depends on the dimensions of the door. If it is two meters, then you need to install the jumper at a height of two meters and five centimeters. They make it from a rack profile, which needs to be cut off longer - not 20, but even 30 centimeters. Stepping back 10 or 15 centimeters from each side of the profile, you need to make an incision at 45 degrees. The bevel should look outward.

The sides that were cut should be bent down and given the structure a U-shape. The vertical parts must be put on racks and secured with metal screws. When working with drywall sheets, it is important to use only special self-tapping screws that have a press washer. It is she who helps to easily pass through the canvas, while not damaging the cardboard and allowing the hat to deepen to the required distance.

Step by step installation instructions

If you need to create a drywall construction with your own hands, you need to properly organize the progress of work. The first thing that is needed is to level the floor and walls to which the structure of the future wall will be attached. Only after that, you can make markings on the floor, taking into account both parallel walls to derive the correct angle for the structure. In case nearby standing walls will also be covered with drywall, then initially a crate is erected for them, and after that the installation of the frame for the new wall begins.

According to the markings that are applied to the floor and walls, only the profile needs to be leveled., and the width of the entire wall will increase after the installation of drywall and putty. Be sure to note the location of the doorway, if any. After marking is completed on the floor, the next step is to mark the wall and ceiling. To do everything perfectly accurately, it is better to use a laser level. If this is not available, a simple plumb line will do.

When everything is ready, a metal frame is erected. The first profile is fixed to the floor with dowels. The second stage is the construction of part of the structure on the ceiling. When both parts are ready, they are connected into a common structure using CW support posts. If there is a door or a window, you need to use the same racks for them. Installation takes place from the bottom up, the front side should be directed inside the window or door openings.

The next step is the installation of vertical supports from the same CW profile with a distance of 55 and 60 centimeters from each other. When everything is ready, all the supports are checked by level. After that, work is underway to install horizontal edges with a UW profile. When all these works have been completed, you can begin fastening drywall sheets.

Based on the fact that given material It has standard sizes 2 by 1.20 m, 2.50 by 1.20 m and 3 by 1.20 m, different dimensions will be needed for different ceilings. If the room is not high, then the sheet will most likely have to be cut, the same principle is used for ceilings over three meters, when the length has to be increased.

In order to cut the sheet, use a construction knife.

The cutting process consists of the following steps:

• laying the sheet on the surface, which should be as even and firm as possible;
• you need to draw a line along which the incision will go with a pencil;
• you need to cut carefully and only the cardboard itself;

• the sheet is shifted to the edge of a flat support to the drawn line, by pressing it is necessary to make a break along it;
• turn the drywall over and draw the same line on the reverse side, along which to make the same incision;
• move along the notch line, press and completely break the GKL.

The next step is to attach drywall sheets to the finished frame.

For this you need:

• On the first sheet, the side chamfer is removed, for which a strip of 55 millimeters is cut off.
• Sheets are fastened from the bottom corner of the wall. It is important to make a small indent from the floor of 10 or 15 millimeters.
• Fastening the sheet to the crate using self-tapping screws 3.5 by 35 millimeters. The edges are fastened first, and then they move to the middle. The width from the self-tapping screw to the self-tapping screw should not exceed 25 centimeters. Hats need to be slightly deepened into the surface of the sheet.

• After installing the first element of drywall, you need to measure the distance left to the ceiling and cut off the appropriate piece.
• Formation of a chamfer on a sheet.
• Install it on the frame.
• It is important to fasten the following sheets in a checkerboard pattern, but there is no need to cut the chamfer. This is how the whole sheet is fastened, without trimming. Mounting goes from ceiling to floor. Thus, the entire side of the future wall is sheathed.

When work on one side has been completed, it is important to consider whether wiring and telephone cable will be needed in the new room. If yes, then the next step is to install them. For wiring, it is necessary to prepare corrugated pipes and lead wires into them. After that, it is necessary to make holes in the profile with a diameter of 3.5 cm and thread pipes with wires into them. It is important to determine the holes for the sockets and the switch and make them in advance.

To build a quality wall, you need to supplement its interior with appropriate materials., which will have sound insulation and will make it possible to feel confident and comfortable, as if behind a stone wall. This must be done correctly by using rolled mineral wool 6 or 12 centimeters thick. Cotton wool fits tightly between the profiles, this will be enough for a good fix. After everything is done, you can put up a second wall.

The technology of its sheathing is the same. Once all installation work is completed, the a new stage, where the finished wall is subjected to the processing process:

• joints between drywall sheets are glued with a sickle;
• wall treatment with starting putty;
• processing the wall with finishing putty, leveling the places where the screws are located;
• grouting putty with sandpaper;
• decorative wall decoration.

A false wall can be prepared quickly enough, it all depends on the skill of the master and his experience. A beginner can also assemble such a structure, it just takes him more time.

Interior walls will serve for a long time, the main thing is to monitor the conditions of their operation. As a decor for such elements, you can use paint, wallpaper or tiles, it all depends on the room, the interior and the desire of the owners themselves.

Design

Drywall - very comfortable material for work, especially for creating interesting and unusual images in the interior. This becomes possible due to the fact that the sheets can take a wide variety of shapes, they can not only be cut, but also bent, for which it is enough just to wet the sheet and give it the desired shape.

You can use this material anywhere.- both in a private house and in an apartment, and in each of the cases, the design can be completely different. Options for exactly how a particular space may look may differ in style, shape, and texture. It is possible to build structures with plasterboard in the bathroom, bedroom, corridor and any other room, only the finishing material will differ. For rooms with increased level humidity use moisture resistant sheets.

The false wall is completely similar to the usual one, moreover, it can be equipped with a door and fully serve its owners to separate certain areas of the room. To fulfill such an idea, when designing, leave room for an opening and later place doors in it.

For space zoning, it is not necessary to build entire walls, you can limit yourself to a small partition, which will look spectacular with lighting from above and decorative boxes. The implementation of the partition is not a continuous canvas allows you to give the design lightness. Complete with shelves will help add comfort and hide small things in a secluded place. This option is best suited for the living room, but you can use it in the hall.

A distinctive characteristic of drywall is the ability to apply any decoration methods to it. To create a cozy atmosphere in living rooms, you can glue wallpaper on finished wall or paint it in any color and even overlay it with natural or artificial stone. The latter option is especially well suited for a fireplace, which can also be made from plasterboard. In the kitchen or bathroom, painting is also an option, but you can also lay tiles to keep the walls from excess moisture and create the full feeling of a real brick wall.

When planning the construction of a plasterboard wall, it is initially necessary to prepare the room. There should not be anything superfluous in it, because it will not be easy to place a sheet 2 or 3 meters long in it. The room should be clean enough so that the drywall sheets do not get dirty, because then you will need to get rid of the stains so that they do not show up on the surface of the wallpaper or paint.

It is important to plan the room correctly, take into account the heating system, and if necessary, bring the batteries into the new living space. It is necessary to take into account the light that will overlap new design. If the windows are located only on one side, it is important not to completely block access to them.

If it is not a wall that is formed, but a partition, it is better to do it with shelves, and not a solid structure, which will allow you to divide the space, make a storage area, and provide light access to the second part of the room.

Examples in the interior

A plasterboard wall can become a real highlight in the interior, the main thing is to approach the process of its design correctly, choose the right materials that will help decorate the room and emphasize its features.

In the bedroom with drywall, you can create an original and unique design. The wall by the bed is decorated with ornate lines, soft shapes give comfort and promote good rest. The presence of shelves allows you to store small things there and use them as a place for lamps.

For the living room, especially when it borders on the kitchen and is not separated by walls, you can use the original semicircular design, which rises from the wall to the ceiling. The space is divided into two zones. In this case, the use of white best helps to increase the space of both zones.

A plasterboard wall can be designed with a doorway to divide the space between two rooms. Doors can be single or double, with glass or deaf, it depends on the design of the room.

How to make a drywall partition, see the following video.

Not always in apartments or purchased houses, new owners like the standard layout of rooms. So the question arises, how to build a wall of drywall with your own hands?

To build a main wall is quite difficult, besides, for apartment buildings approval from the relevant authorities is required. In this case, the easiest way out is installation drywall partition, and how to do this, the article will tell you.

Gypsum craton is a flexible, lightweight and easy-to-work material.

With it, you can give any room an original and unique look. It could be:

• A wall dividing a room.
• Plasterboard partition of unimaginable shape.
• Complex decorative design.

To build a drywall wall, you must follow the following sequence of work:

• Make a wall frame. Usually metal profiles or wooden slats are used for this.

Tip: Preference for the frame should be given to metal elements that have greater strength, less susceptibility to external factors, such as: mechanical influences, humidity. In addition, the price of the material is quite affordable, and the profile of the parts is made specifically for this material.

• To sheathe the wall on both sides with drywall sheets, which can be ordinary, moisture-resistant or fire-resistant, depending on the purpose of the room where the plasterboard walls are being built.
• Fill the space between the canvases. It can be glass wool or mineral wool.

The advantages and disadvantages of installing drywall walls are shown in the table:

Frame materials

Before you build a wall from drywall, a strong and selected frame is made. For this, a metal profile is used, specially designed for panels, and a number of accessories used during its installation.

For this, the following profile sizes are used:

• D - to form the surface on which the drywall will be attached.
• W- for the construction of a common wall frame.
• C - base.
• U - guide. This is a simple U-shaped profile with smooth side walls; a support profile with a special pressed ribbing is inserted into it at the end, which increases the bending rigidity of the element.

Main profile dimensions:

• CD - the supporting element of the frame with dimensions of 60x27 millimeters.
• UD - guide for fastening the CD profile, with dimensions of 28x27 millimeters.
• CW - profile for wall frame posts, with dimensions 50x50; 50x75; 50x100 millimeters.
• UW - guide for CW profile, dimensions 50x40; 75x40; 100x40 millimeters.
• The UA profile is a variant of the CW profile, but more rigid.

The type of profiles and dimensions are shown in the photo.

To calculate the approximate amount of materials, a table is presented that indicates the consumption rates of the necessary materials for mounting the wall, the dimensions of which are:

• Length - 3.5 meters.
• Width - 2.5 meters.
• Height without door openings.

When constructing a frame, it must be borne in mind that:

• For plasterboard wall thickness 5; 7.5 or 10 centimeters, W profile is used.
• For a thicker partition, a D series profile is installed, and the guide elements are fixed in parallel by 2, instead of one standard one.
• Any distance between the guides is chosen, which depends on the presence of insulation or installation of communications.

Preparing to mount the wall

The instructions for installing a drywall wall suggest starting work with preparatory operations.

For this:

• Marking is carried out on the floor, ceiling and walls where the partition is supposed to be installed.
• The lines for installing the wall are drawn in relation to the window parallel to the other two walls.
• Along the intended perimeter, a rigid guide profile is screwed with dowels, which serves as a support for the structure under construction.

When installing a drywall wall, the following rule must be observed:

• The profile for the racks is turned with a stiffener to the side where the fastening of the sheets begins.
• If mounting is done from right to left, the ribs must be on the right.
• For a partition in which a door is provided, a rigid rack profile must be installed. Detailed video in this article will allow you to see the whole process with your own eyes and understand what kind of structure being prepared will have.

• Rack profiles are distributed along the guides with a step of approximately 50 centimeters.

Tip: The joints of two sheets should be carried out only on the profile. This will increase the strength of the structure.

• In that part of the wall, which is located above the door, additional profiles are inserted to ensure the rigidity of fixing the sheets.

Wall sheathing

Before proceeding with the fastening of drywall, it is necessary to choose the right material. The strength and durability of a drywall construction depends on the quality of the material, its compliance performance characteristics the room in which the wall will be installed.

The basis of drywall is a gypsum core, which is covered on both sides with multilayer cardboard.

Plasterboard sheets (GKL), depending on the constituent elements, are divided into:

• GKL – standard sheets drywall, used for "sheathing" rooms with normal humidity. Differs in low fire-retardant characteristics. The cost of such material is the lowest.
• GKLO- fire-resistant drywall. In this case, the gypsum filler contains fiberglass reinforcement, and the cardboard is impregnated with fire retardants, which reduce the combustibility of the material. Fiberglass delays the spread of flames.
• GKLV- waterproof drywall, used for the construction of partitions in wet areas: bathroom, balcony and wall alignment. The ability of drywall to absorb moisture minimizes the cardboard layer of GKL impregnated with hydrophobic compounds.
• GKLVO- a combined type of drywall that combines waterproof fire-resistant properties. Its cost is the highest.

Depending on the purpose, the thickness of the drywall sheets is selected:

• Wall cladding is best done with wall plasterboard with a thickness of 12.5 millimeters.
• The ceiling is sheathed with ceiling plasterboard - 9.5 millimeters thick (see Cladding the ceiling with plasterboard: we do it right).
• To create a figure on a drywall wall, you need an arched plasterboard, 7.5 - 8 millimeters thick.

Tip: When purchasing drywall, you must carefully inspect the sheets for defects on them so that there is no damage to the cardboard and the splayed core.

cutting drywall

To cut the material, a construction knife with a set of replaceable blades is used.

Thereafter:

• The sheet is placed on a flat, always solid surface.
• A line of incision is drawn with a pencil or marker.
• The top of the cardboard is cut with a knife.
• The sheet is displaced along the notch line onto a lump of support and gently breaks.
• The sheet returns to its original position, unfolds on edge, and then folds.
• The cardboard is cut from the second side, but not through.
• The canvas is turned over to the other side, shifted to the edge of the support and finally separated.

Tip: To ensure a gap, for high-quality sealing of joints subsequently with putty, it is necessary to form a bevel-bevel with a slope of approximately 22.5 ° degrees on the edge of the sheet with a special planer for drywall.

Sheet fastening

To metal frame drywall is attached with self-tapping screws 3.5x35 millimeters.

Wherein:

• The corners of the sheet are attached.
• Fasteners are placed in increments of 10 - 25 centimeters along the edges of the sheet and along its middle line.
• Self-tapping screws are screwed in such a way that the caps of the elements are slightly recessed into the GKL, and do not protrude above the wall level.

Tip: Fixing sheets should be carried out above the floor at a distance of 15 millimeters to ensure the integrity of the structure during operation.

• After attaching the first sheet, the remaining distance to the ceiling is measured and the corresponding segment of the GKL is prepared.
• A chamfer is cut on it to improve the joining of the canvases to the top or bottom sheet and to the ceiling.

• All subsequent sheets are attached entirely without chamfers, in a checkerboard pattern: after mounting the first row, a whole sheet of drywall is placed under the ceiling, and the missing part is below.

Installation of wiring, sockets, switches:

Soundproofing device and wall decoration

Mineral wool is used for soundproofing. In this case, the drywall wall reduces sound penetration from one room to another.

For this:

• Cotton wool fits tightly between the racks of the frame without gaps, without additional fastening.
• The reliability of laying the material can be improved by horizontal bridges made of wooden beam, the length of which is chosen according to the width of the wall, and the pieces mineral wool will be shorter.

• After laying the soundproofing, the second side of the wall is sheathed.
• All end surfaces are filled.
• Serpyanka mounting mesh is glued to the joints.
• Starting putty is applied.
• The entire surface is treated with finishing putty.
• The surface is finally leveled with an abrasive mesh and a grater.
• The wall is ready for any suitable coating.

Design solutions

A beautifully designed plasterboard wall creates original look any room, and its owner is in a good mood. How to do this will tell the video. How can I decorate a drywall wall?

A few examples are presented below:

• Walls can be plastered and covered with moisture-resistant paint.

• Lined with natural or artificial stone.

• Make a mosaic or tile finish.

• You can make a drawing on the wall of drywall.

• You can make a drywall niche indoors with LED backlighting.

• The plasterboard fireplace in the wall looks great.

The color scheme can be very different and match color scheme the entire room.

In order to do everything right, to avoid mistakes during the installation of the structure, before installing a plasterboard wall with your own hands, it is better to watch the video. In it, all stages are accompanied by visual instructions.

Working with drywall with your own hands, walls that can be perfectly aligned, or used to build light, durable partitions, is quite affordable even for a novice builder. Drywall is excellent for finishing the concrete walls of high-rise apartment buildings and leveling curved surfaces in private homes. This material is able to reduce the high audibility from the street and additionally insulate the building envelope.

Big advantage drywall before others finishing materials is also the fact that from it you can create whole complexes of niches and shelves built into the wall, perform original arched structures.

With the use of this material, it is carried out in two ways - by fixing drywall sheets to a frame crate or by gluing the GKL to the wall using a special gypsum-based mounting compound.

If the process of leveling surfaces with plaster mortars requires fairly high skills, and if there are large differences on the walls, even outstanding skill, then working with drywall in such a comparison can be called simple. The main thing in this process is to correctly and accurately perform each of the installation steps.

To put the walls in order without hitches and difficulties, you need to prepare well for this event by purchasing necessary materials and tools, as well as having studied the installation instructions for a particular design.

Preparing the surface of the walls before leveling will also not be superfluous, especially since it will not take much time and effort, but will be of great benefit.

What is required for work?

Drywall installation tools

For the installation of drywall structures, special tools will be required, and, for gluing the material, a smaller number of them will be required than for fixing to the frame.

In order not to repeat and create two lists for each type of work separately, you can include them in one, but with a few clarifications.

• Shurupov rt for mounting the frame and fixing the drywall on the crate.
• Spatula of medium size for applying putty and glue.
• Notched trowel for spreading the adhesive over the surface of the sheets.
• or the usual building level - for marking and monitoring the evenness of the wall being mounted.
• A sharp construction or clerical knife - for cutting material.
• An electric drill with a perforator and drills for concrete - for attaching the frame structure to ceilings, walls, floors.
• Nozzle-mixer for mixing glue (if drywall will be attached to the wall with it) and putty compounds.
• Paint roller for priming wall surfaces.
• Capacity for adhesive composition with a volume of approximately 8 liters.
• Shears for cutting metal - for cutting galvanized profiles.
• Planer for processingedges- chamfering.
• Grout for processing sealed joints between sheets.
• Grinder - "Bulgarian" and a disk for cutting thin metal.
• Prosekatel - for fastening metal profiles to each other.

• A rule that tests the evenness of a surface.
• Measuring and control tool - tape measure, a plumb line, a long metal ruler, a square, a simple pencil or marker.

Materials for working with drywall

From the materials you will need to purchase:

• Drywall, which must be ordered 10÷15% more than the required quantity.

Drywall is produced in four types, and each of them is designed for use in different rooms, depending on the operating conditions. Sheets have their recognized system color coding, by which you can easily determine the intended purpose of the material:

— Grey colour has a conventional drywall (gypsum board) used in residential areas with normal air humidity.

- The pink or light purple color of the cardboard indicates that it is a heat-resistant material used for wall cladding around fireplaces and stoves. It is defined by the acronym GKLO.

- Green shades are inherent in a moisture-resistant material that is suitable for wall decoration, for example, in a bathroom. It is designated by the letters GKLV.

- Dark gray or blue color is assigned to drywall, which combines the qualities of both heat resistance and moisture resistance. This type is denoted by the letters GKLVO, and it is used to decorate the walls of baths or boiler rooms.

Sheet sizes various types drywall vary as follows:

• Metal profile for installing wall lathing or mounting a frame partition.

• Direct hangers - for fixing racks to the wall, if it is necessary to create a large thickness of insulation or level the wall with large differences.

• Sealing tape, which is glued to profiles mounted directly to the wall.

• Dry mortar - mounting adhesive for fixing drywall to walls without installing a crate.

• before installing drywall and for training assembled structure to further puttying.

• Gypsum-based putty - for sealing joints between sheets and subsequent finishing alignment of a plasterboard wall.
• Reinforcing tape or mesh - for gluing joints when them puttying.

• Special self-tapping screws for working with drywall.

• Dowels for fixing profile racks on brick or concrete wall, ceiling, floor.

• Thermal insulation material - if it is planned to insulate or soundproof wall or partition.

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Preparatory activities

Whatever method of mounting drywall on the wall is chosen, it is necessary to prepare the surface before installing it. This must be done so that mold or fungus does not develop under the drywall, and when gluing the material, it fits snugly against the wall. The preparation process is not so complicated, but it will guarantee the long operation of the new wall without repair work.

The work can be conditionally divided into three stages - this is cleaning the wall, sealing cracks and priming the wall with antiseptic compounds.

• The first step is to clean the wall of old coatings, such as old peeling plaster and unnecessary wallpaper. If the plaster is solid and adheres well to the wall, then it can only be primed.
• Cleaning can be done with a spatula. If you have to remove the wallpaper, then it is recommended to wet it intensively by applying water to the surface using a roller with a soft nozzle. When the wallpaper gets wet, it will more easily move away from the wall if you pick it up with a spatula.
• If the plaster layer is unreliable, unstable, flaking, covered with cracks, then the damaged areas must be removed. This can be done in two ways:

- The first option is to knock down the old finish with a puncher, or manually - with a chisel and a hammer.

- The second option is to abundantly soak the plaster and carefully peel it off the wall with a spatula.

• If a brick wall is leveled by gluing drywall, then it is imperative to remove all protrusions from it that could remain on it upon completion of the masonry. The protrusions will interfere with a good fit of the sheets to the surface. Such irregularities are knocked down with an ordinary hammer or with a puncher.

Thereafter, brick wall must be thoroughly cleaned with an iron brush from the remnants of sand-cement mortar and dust.

• Further, if serious cracks are found on the wall, they must be expanded, cleaned, and after it dries, sealed with a plaster mixture, sealant or mounting foam. The latter option is suitable if the crack in the wall or plaster layer is large enough.
• The next step is to treat the wall with an antiseptic primer. It is applied with a roller.

• All further work is carried out after complete drying of the wall surface.

Prices for different types of primer

Primer

Alignment of walls by gluing drywall

Mounting drywall with gluing is much easier than mounting it on a frame. However, this method of fixing the finish is possible only if the wall surface does not have significant irregularities and deformations in the form of protrusions and recesses of more than 5 mm, and the ceiling level in the room does not exceed 3 meters.

This method of installation is not suitable even when the wall is supposed to soundproof or, since the materials for this will require a certain space under the drywall sheets.

This method is well suited for leveling not too high-quality walls to the ideal and creating smooth surface for subsequent application or gluing of decorative finishing material.

Gluing works are carried out as follows:

• The prepared wall must be measured using a plumb line and a building level. If dents are found on the wall, they must be brought to the same level with the common surface, since in these places, after the installation of drywall, voids may form where condensate will collect. This is especially important to do in cases where.

You can bring all the recesses and dents to the same level using self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the wall at a distance of 200 ÷ 300 mm from each other and up to the same level with the entire wall. Then, a plaster mortar of the required thickness is applied on top of them and equalized with the caps of the self-tapping screws and the rest of the surface.

Before proceeding to the next stage of work, it is necessary to wait for the mortar to harden well, as the drywall sheet will rest on it.

• The next step is to apply another coat of primer.

The primer will not only protect the wall from various biological influences, but also create reliable adhesion between the wall, adhesive and drywall, which will speed up installation and improve the quality of work.

• Next, the mounting adhesive solution is mixed. To do this, water at room temperature is poured into the container, into which the dry powder mixture is poured and kneaded with construction mixer or a drill with a nozzle installed on it. The manufacturer must indicate the proportions of the preparation of the solution in the manufacturing instructions, which can always be found on the packaging.

It is very important to remember that gypsum-based glue starts to harden very quickly, so it is better to knead it in small portions, otherwise you can ruin it. a large number of solution. If the process has begun with a grasping, it is impossible to stop it, even by adding an extra amount of water on an emergency basis.

• Further, it is required to provide that the drywall sheet during installation does not rest against the floor surface, it must be raised from it by about 8 ÷ 10 mm. Therefore, a rail of this thickness is temporarily placed under the sheet to be mounted.
• A drywall sheet is laid horizontally on the floor, and an adhesive mass is applied pointwise on it, in slides, at a distance of 180 ÷ 200 mm from one another. After that, the solution is slightly distributed, the sheet rises, is installed in the right place and pressed against the wall.

• The installed drywall sheet has the ability to correct, trim in the range of 7 ÷ 10 mm, for example, by tapping on it building level or a rule. If an unclosed space remains on top (and this is how it most often happens), then it would be best to veneer with GKL fragments only after the installation of entire drywall sheets giving direction to the entire wall is completed.

• Further, the work proceeds in the same order. All sheets are installed to each other end-to-end, with factory chamfers attached. Additional fragments, chamfers at the place of the cut, of course, do not have. It is not on the end sides of the GKL either. This means that for such joints it must be done independently, using a plane or a knife.
• At the end of the installation, the glue is allowed to dry thoroughly, so the lined walls are left for about a day.
• After that, you can proceed to sealing the joints. First, it is recommended to treat them with a primer, and then, after the soil has dried, the joints of the sheets are glued with a sickle mesh, which reinforces the joints, and the putty layer applied on top does not crack.

A thin layer of putty is applied to the joints glued with a mesh using a spatula. It is best to level it immediately to the maximum, so that after hardening there is less smoothing work.

If the serpentine tape does not have its own adhesive base, then firstly, a serpentine is applied to the joint, and then a serpentine is applied on top of it, and then pressed into the solution with a spatula, after which the excess is removed.

• When the putty dries, it is rubbed with a special tool - grout, on which fine-grained sandpaper or abrasive mesh is installed.

After completion of sealing and drying of the joints, the entire surface is covered with a primer, which must also dry completely.

High-quality puttying is the key to the aesthetic appearance of a plasterboard wall

Whatever technology is used when installing a drywall wall, the final step before finishing speaks giving surfaces of perfect evenness and smoothness with putty. How to do it right or for painting - in a special publication of our portal.

Alignment of the wall with drywall using a frame structure

Mounting drywall on the frame is a more complex and troublesome option, but you can’t do without it if you plan to additionally insulate the wall and soundproof. The frame can be made of galvanized metal profiles or wooden beams.

Illustration
	Preparatory work is underway. The wall is cleaned of loose plaster and treated with a primer. When leveling the wall with drywall, whether the structure is with or without insulation, it is necessary to cover the base surface with an antiseptic composition. Next, the wall must be marked out by marking vertical lines on it, which will serve as a guide for installing racks. The step between the drains is taken equal to 400 or 600 mm - these values ​​fit well into the standard width of the gypsum board 1200 mm.
	The next step is to fix the guide profiles to the ceiling and floor, into which the racks will be installed and fixed.
	Profiles can be fastened to the floor, walls and ceiling with dowels, depending on the surface material - driven or screwed. Profiles can be fixed to wooden bases with self-tapping screws.
	To improve the quality of sound insulation, prevent the transmission of vibrations to the frame and resonate the plasterboard coating, before fixing the profiles to the floor, ceiling or wall, it is recommended to stick a special tape on its shelf adjacent to the surface.
	Having fixed the upper and lower guides on the flow and the floor, ideally exactly in the same vertical plane (this must be controlled with a plumb line), you can proceed to the installation of the racks. It must be remembered that how accurately the guides are set, the entire drywall wall will be so even.
	The racks of the frame are installed inside the guides, set along the marking lines, they are given a vertical position, and then they are fixed with a notcher. If there is no such tool, then fastening can be carried out using self-tapping screws.
	On the this photo the mounted frame is clearly visible, but it has not yet been finally fixed to the wall with the help of hangers.
	Further, each of the racks must be fixed with several straight hangers. These brackets are fixed on the wall with dowels at a vertical distance of 500 ÷ 600 mm from each other.
	Then, with the help of self-tapping screws, the racks are fixed to the suspensions (the verticality of the profile must be checked again). This makes the structure rigid, connected to the main wall.
	In this photo, the racks of the entire frame are fixed to the wall, and the crate is ready for further work.
	The protruding parts of the suspensions are bent to the sides. When the crate is ready, all communication wiring can be laid if, for example, it is planned to mount sockets or switches on this wall.
	If the wall is additionally insulated, then after the installation of the frame is completed, thermal insulation material - mineral wool - is laid between the racks. Further, the insulation must be closed with a vapor barrier membrane. It is attached to a wooden crate with a stapler and staples, and to a metal one - using double-sided masking or mounting tape.
	After that, proceed to the installation of drywall. The bottom sheets, in accordance with the technology, are recommended to be installed with a gap of about 10 mm from the floor - for this, temporary linings, for example, a wooden lath, can be used during the installation process. This is necessary so that the sheet from below does not begin to crumble under its own weight. Usually the height of the sheet is not enough to close the entire space of the wall to the ceiling - there will be a section on top, which will later be covered by a separate fragment. It is recommended that sheets, starting from the second and further, be laid “in a run-up”, so that the horizontal seams are spaced apart: one from above - the next from below, etc. An example is shown in the figure.
	Drywall is fixed with special self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the profiles directly through the sheet, without pre-drilling. Fastening is carried out in all racks and jumpers (if any). In this case, the self-tapping screw should not be located closer than 10 mm to any of the edges of the sheet. The head of the self-tapping screw, after screwing in, should “drown” in drywall by about 1 mm. The step between the screws is from 250 to 350 mm. If suddenly the self-tapping screw “did not go”, then after removing it, another cannot be screwed into the same hole - you need to step aside by at least 50 mm.
	In this photo, the remaining area unfilled with drywall is clearly visible, and it has to be closed. To do this, it is necessary to install a cross-beam from the profile between the racks, to which the upper edge of the already mounted sheet and the lower side of the missing fragment will be attached with self-tapping screws.
	To fix the crossbar on the racks, you can fix the corners specially made from profile segments.
	The finished crossbar is installed between the uprights, half-slid under the installed sheet and fastened to the corners using a cutter or self-tapping screws.
	Another option for making a jumper. Measure and cut off from the profile a segment equal to the distance between the uprights plus the width of the upright profile, since the wide part of the cross member must be on the uprights between which it will be fixed. Then, the side shelves of the crossbar are cut to a distance equal to half the width of the profile, and are bent outward at a right angle. They will become the shelves through which the fastening is carried out using a notcher or self-tapping screws.
	A piece of plasterboard sheet of the required dimensions is measured and cut out. After that, it is attached to the racks and the upper part of the installed cross member. A chamfer is made along the edges of the sheets at the junction with a sharp knife or planer - this is necessary in order to be able to putty the joining line of the fragments with high quality. Such a chamfer is made on all edges where it is not provided for by the sheet design itself. Fragments are fastened with self-tapping screws according to the usual rules.
	A wall sheathed with drywall should look something like this.
	After that, a sickle mesh is glued to all joints, and then they are sealed with putty. In addition, all the holes must be puttied, from the caps of the self-tapping screws so that they do not later appear as rusty spots through the decorative finish. The final stage of work is the coating of all walls sheathed with drywall with a primer, and after it dries, with putty.

Installing a lightweight plasterboard partition

Installation is somewhat similar to wall cladding on a frame structure. But there are also differences here, the frame is fixed to the walls only from the ends, and is sheathed with drywall on both sides.

The frame partition made of GKL has the following basic design:

• The frame is mounted from a wooden beam or a galvanized metal profile. The frame racks are mounted at a distance from each other based on the width of the drywall sheet, so that its edges are half their width, and at least one rack is located in the middle of the canvas. It should be noted that quite often the frame is made combined, that is, in some places a wooden beam is inserted into the metal profile for rigidity.
• The frame is sheathed on both sides with drywall. Sometimes sheathing of one or both sides and two layers of material is practiced.
• Between the sheets of cladding, soundproof (insulating) mats- as a rule, basalt mineral wool is used for this.

Installation of a plasterboard partition is carried out as follows:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first step is to determine the place of installation of the partition, its marking is carried out. To do this, points are determined on the wall and on the floor using a laser or ordinary level and a tape measure, which are then combined into lines using a colored paint cord.
	Then, focusing on the line on the wall and floor, with the help of a plumb line, points are determined for beating markings on the ceiling.
	Immediately you need to determine the location of the doorway and make marks on the ceiling and floor for the installation of perfectly vertical racks. The fixing of the horizontal guide on the floor is carried out only before and after the measured area allotted for the doorway.
	After accurate marking of all surfaces, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bfixing metal profiles will be immediately visible. The rails are fixed first to the walls, ceiling and floor, into which the racks will then be installed.
	These elements are fixed with dowels (self-tapping screws are used for wooden bases). First, through holes are drilled through the guides, and then dowels are inserted and hammered into them (self-tapping screws are screwed in).
	Further, when the frame for the frame is ready, you need to immediately install the racks that will frame the doorway. It is recommended to immediately make tabs from a wooden bar into these profiles. Racks are installed from floor to ceiling and are fixed in the rails with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in from both sides.
	It is even better if two racks are installed next to them, combined with bars. This design will make the frame more rigid and reliable.
	The next step is to measure and mark the height of the doorway, where the transverse element will be fixed, completing its formation. To do this, the profile is cut at the corners, the side parts are bent and fixed on the racks.
	In order to stiffen the crossbar and the entire opening, the crossbar must be additionally connected to a rail fixed to the ceiling, with one or two short posts.
	Further, all other racks are installed in the guides and fixed strictly in a vertical position with the help of a notcher or self-tapping screws. The step between the uprights is the same as indicated in the previous instructions - 400 or 600 mm.
	After installing the racks, you can proceed to the installation of drywall sheets. They are installed and fixed according to the same principle as when sheathing a wall. In the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe doorway, drywall should not be cut in advance. It will be more convenient to fix a solid sheet to the frame, and make cuts on it with a sharp knife on the spot.
	The upper side of the resulting rectangle is cut through, and on the side, longer, only cardboard is cut - then it will break exactly along the notch.
	Having finished the installation of drywall sheets on one side, you can start laying communication cables, for which small holes are made in certain places of the profiles - with the expectation that a pipe with wires (corrugated or smooth-walled) passes through them. It is forbidden to pass cables through holes in galvanized profiles without a tube-sleeve.
	In the chosen place, where the placement of sockets and switches is planned, socket holes are drilled on the installed GKL sheets for mounting socket boxes. They are connected to the cabling.
	If this has been planned, thermal and acoustic insulation material (mineral wool) is laid. Insulation panels or mats must be installed spaced apart between the posts.
	After completing the soundproofing process, a door frame is installed in the doorway. It is leveled, and if necessary, wedges are carefully driven into the gaps between it and the frame to help fix it in the desired position. Then, it is screwed to the frame racks. If large enough gaps remain around it, they must be filled with mounting foam, wait for it to dry and carefully cut off the excess that has come out.
	After that, the drywall is fixed on the other side of the partition. The installation principle does not change. Drywall on doorway fixed and cut out in the same way as in the previous case.
	The final stage before priming and puttying the entire surface is sealing the joints between the sheets and the holes from the self-tapping screws.

It is very important to carry out qualitatively, as they will determine the smoothness of the surface of the plasterboard wall, and this will depend appearance decorative finishes.

Video: a master class on the construction of a lightweight plasterboard frame partition

Working with drywall is a creative process, and if you really feel like doing it yourself, then you can safely get down to business. Having prepared all the tools and materials, as well as having studied the installation instructions, even that industrious owner of an apartment or house who has not previously come across the construction business will be able to carry out this event.