What the plant looked like before watering. Watering indoor plants

Without watering the garden fruit trees and other crops will not give the harvest that you expected, and in dry seasons they will die altogether. There are several ways to water the garden and garden, and before resorting to one of them or using the whole complex, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules of watering.

Norms of watering plants in the garden and in the garden

Watering the garden in summer, spring and autumn is a difficult but necessary task. Therefore, irrigation systems must be easy to manufacture, reliable and safe to maintain.

Commercially produced small sprinkler nozzles greatly facilitate the work of watering. The nozzle is inserted into a hose, which is vertically fixed with a wire or a collar on a pole stuck in the ground. When fed into the hose, water is sprayed, moistening the soil. Having finished watering one area, the hose with the pole is moved to another place, and the process is repeated.

It is possible to lay a pipeline with vertical pipes, fixing a nozzle on each, and, opening the valve, water the entire area at once. Pipe irrigation is often used. In this case, pipes with holes are laid in the garden. The water supplied under pressure through the holes enters the furrows dug to a depth of 20–30 cm near the plants at a distance of 0.5–1 m from their trunks (depending on age).

According to the need for water, fruit crops can be arranged as follows (from more demanding to less demanding): quince, apple, pear, plum, Walnut, cherry, cherry, peach, apricot.

Watering orchards is carried out taking into account the phases of vegetation of fruit plants. Before flowering, there is usually enough moisture accumulated by the soil in winter.

During the flowering period, gardens are watered if the soil is dry and flowering is plentiful.

In June - July, the garden usually needs watering if the amount of rainfall is not enough. Water during this period is required for the growth of shoots, fruits and the laying of fruit buds.

Fruit-bearing orchards during the summer are recommended to be watered in case of insufficient rainfall five to six times in the southern regions and 3-4 times in the north, and young plantations - 3-4 times more often. With a high yield and a sufficient amount of fertilizer, the number of waterings should be increased.

Irrigation rates for gardens depend on the age of plants, soil composition, crop size, etc. It is believed that for a garden area of ​​5 acres (0.05 ha), an average of 15–30 m3 of water is required per irrigation. After 1-2 days after each watering, loosening of the soil is necessary. In the case of soil mulching, the number of waterings can be halved.

The amount of water available to plants depends on many factors. Including the type and depth of the soil, the depth of the root system, the rate of water loss during evaporation, the temperature and the rate of moisture entering the soil.

The rate of water extraction from the soil is a function of root concentration. The deeper the root system, the lower the speed. More than 40% of water is extracted from the upper root layer.

The water entering the soil moves at the rate at which the field capacity is created. The movement of water in the soil from the bottom up is carried out by capillary forces. The loss of water to evaporation affects only the upper layers of the soil. During a period of prolonged drought, it is easy to recognize plants with a shallow root system.

The correct watering time is especially important for the development vegetable crops and get the maximum yield. In addition, it is necessary to observe the rules of watering. For example, for water to penetrate to the root system, it is not enough just to moisten the soil surface. According to the observations of experts, a 3-cm layer of water penetrates the soil to a depth of 25 cm. To soak a plot of 0.5 hectares to such a depth, 130,000 liters of water should be spent. During a prolonged drought, frequent minor waterings do not benefit the plants, since the water does not reach the main volume of the root system, and a hard crust appears on the ground. At the same time, superficial lateral roots are formed in plants, which also suffer during prolonged dry weather.

Sandy soils dry out much faster than clay soils and require more frequent watering. To find out how things are with the soil moisture in the area, you need to dig a hole 20-30 cm deep with a scoop. If the soil at this depth is slightly wet or dry, watering should be done immediately.

Most of all, moisture is required for vegetable crops during intensive growth, that is, from late spring to mid-summer, when the development of plants is determined precisely by the availability of water. In late summer, excess moisture can harm some crops. For example, melons and watermelons are not watered during the ripening period. Tomatoes can also crack from excessive moisture before they turn red. But still, for most plants, watering rates are determined at the rate of 10-15 l / m2 per week. Irrigation rates for ornamental crops are close to those for vegetables.

The main amount of water is absorbed by plants in spring and summer. Particular attention should be paid to watering when planting trees and shrubs, so that the soil tightly fits their roots. Plants outdoors in the summer are subject to natural drying under the influence of sunlight, although they receive enough moisture from winter precipitation. Interestingly, a layer of rainwater of 1 mm gives 10 m3 per 1 ha, that is, 10 tons. A snow cover 40 cm thick - 1000 tons of water per 1 ha, or 100 liters per 1 m2. It is necessary to ensure that the soil near walls, fences and under trees fully receives moisture, as there are certain difficulties in watering in these places. Plants in pots and tubs are prone to drying out quickly and need regular watering in summer.

How to properly water fruit trees and garden watering video

The lack of water adversely affects the growth, fruiting and winter hardiness of fruit trees. But even more detrimental to them is excess moisture. In waterlogged soil, gas exchange decreases, vital microbiological processes slow down, the temperature in the habitat of the root system decreases, which can lead to the death of some of the roots. For fruit trees, frequent watering is also harmful, when only the surface layer of the soil is moistened. This only brings harm, because it prevents free air exchange. Watering fruit trees should be carried out to a depth of 60-80 cm. To determine the availability of soil with water, it is necessary to dig a hole to a depth of 40-50 cm with a scoop, take a lump of earth in a handful and squeeze it tightly. If it retains its shape, then the humidity is normal, and if the earth crumbles in the palm of your hand, watering is required. True, for sandy soil, this method is less indicative.

Before you properly water fruit trees, you need to determine the time when to do this. Under one of the trees, when planting at a depth of 1–1.5 m, they bury a plastic vessel half-filled with gravel, and then with soil from the surface of the site. The vessel is connected with a hose to another buried nearby at the same level. Above it, a bottle with a capacity of 20 liters is stuck into the ground with its neck down. 2 tubes are passed through the cork of the bottle: atmospheric air enters one, and the other is lowered into the second plastic vessel.

As the tree consumes moisture, its quantity in the first vessel will decrease, and water from the bottle will flow into the second vessel. To know exactly when to start watering, a critical level mark is made on the wall of the bottle. The soil layer in the garden should be moistened to the depth of the vital activity of the root system, for which 600–1000 m3 of water should be spent per 1 ha with a single irrigation. If we talk about watering each tree, then for a 3-5-year-old specimen, one-time watering should be 5-8 buckets, for a 7-10-year-old - 12-15 buckets, and older trees are watered even more abundantly. For example, with an apple tree crown diameter of 3 m, it needs 20 buckets of water during the first spring watering and 30-35 buckets during the second.

And how to water the garden, taking into account the composition of the soil? With light sandy soils, more frequent watering is necessary, but with a lower rate of water consumption; with heavy clay - rare, but plentiful.

Here you can watch a video of watering the garden by the most common method:

Proper watering of vegetable crops

With a lack of moisture in the soil, the growth of cultivated crops stops, water evaporates through the leaves, from the soil surface around the plants.

On a hot day, moisture evaporation can reach 5 l / m2. But this does not mean that vegetable crops should be watered daily; excessive moisture, as already mentioned, can also inhibit growth.

For seed germination and normal development of seedlings, a lot of water is required, but how much depends not only on weather conditions, but also on the type of crops. Leafy vegetables that eat leaves or shoots (cauliflower and white cabbage) respond well to frequent regular watering from the germination stage. The optimal weekly rate during dry periods during the growing season is 10-15 l / m2.

In crops such as peas and beans, excessive soil moisture at the beginning of the growing season can cause increased leaf growth at the expense of fruit development. In this case, in the germination phase, there is no need for artificial irrigation (except for the period of drought), but during flowering and the beginning of fruit formation, watering is required 1–2 times a week at a water flow rate of 5–10 l/m2.

According to the rules for watering plants in the garden, irrigation of vegetable crops is best done in the evening or morning hours. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the soil is moistened to a greater depth.

When watering vegetable crops, splashing water on the surface often leads to excessive evaporation, and moisture does not even have time to reach the root system of plants.

At the same time, evening watering can lead to the development of certain diseases of vegetable crops, since the soil may not dry out until morning.

To avoid the need for constant watering, water-retaining measures should be taken.

On those soils that hold water poorly, deep digging is recommended, which helps to increase the thickness of the root layer and, as a result, the water reserves available to plants. The most effective way to preserve moisture is to add manure, compost, peat, humus to the soil. All organic matter should be thoroughly mixed into the soil.

In order to save moisture, it is important to destroy weeds in time, at the very beginning of their growth. Row spacing and spacing between plants in a row also play a role in determining irrigation rates. Established by experience optimal areas nutrition of various vegetable plants.

To reduce water loss from the soil surface, mulching crops with compost or rotted leaves is very effective. Mulching material should be laid out after rain or watering.

To avoid compaction of the top layer of the earth, it must be well loosened before mulching. In addition, mulch prevents the growth of weeds. And if they do appear, it is easier to pull them out of a loose substrate.

Seeds need a certain amount of water to germinate, so the soil must be moist when sown. Usually it is watered in 1-2 days. In this case, a favorable water-air regime is formed in the soil for the emergence of seedlings. You can water the furrows just before sowing, spending 0.6–0.8 liters per linear meter.

After planting seedlings on permanent place it needs to be watered. Before rooting, the water consumption per 1 plant should be 0.1 liters per day, provided that the soil is thoroughly mulched.

For proper watering vegetable crops, it is best to moisten not the entire garden, but only the root zone. On large areas, such irrigation is uneconomical, in this case it is recommended to use sprinklers and moisten the soil daily, although this is fraught with excessive water consumption.

Types of watering plants in the garden

There are 4 main types of watering plants: surface, sprinkling, subsoil and jet. In surface irrigation, water is distributed over the surface of the soil.

When sprinkled under pressure, water is sprayed in the form of rain. With subsoil irrigation, it enters the root system of the plant, passing over the impermeable soil layer. With jet irrigation, water is forced up through thin pipes to individual plants.

The simplest type of garden watering is with a watering can. The garden tools presented for sale in several types of different volumes, but it is more expedient to use a 10-liter watering can on the site. Larger watering cans are difficult to use, while smaller watering cans require frequent refilling.

The watering can should have a comfortable handle and a long spout. Most watering cans are equipped with fine-hole nozzles or mesh, which are used when watering seeds and seedlings. They start it on one side, carry a watering can over the seedlings, trying to maintain a constant pressure of water.

Known to all gardeners is such a method of moistening the soil on the site, as watering from a hose that is connected to a water tap or a drain tap from a container. When using a hose, care must be taken that the jet of water does not erode the soil and does not expose the roots of plants.

How to water plants in the garden with a hose? When watering vegetable crops, it is necessary to direct the hose to the aisle to ensure a quick flow of water to the root system of plants. The hose should not twist on bends, then it will retain elasticity for several years. Nylon braided hoses are considered the most durable.

Many people use hoses for irrigation, equipped with holes made at different angles.

Such perforated hoses are laid across the irrigated area and are constantly transferred from place to place to evenly moisten the soil.

A sprinkler can be connected to the hose. An oscillating type sprinkler consists of a perforated tube that swings from side to side and distributes water over a rectangular or square bed. A rotary type sprinkler sprays water through one or more nozzles that move in a circular motion under the pressure of the water. Sprinklers of both types are installed in parks, on lawns and country houses and household plots. At the same time, the uniformity of irrigation is determined by the amount of water falling into empty cans placed along the perimeter or circumference of the site.

For the gradual distribution of water supplied to flower beds, greenhouses and potted plants, use long tubes with small holes for drip irrigation.

These methods relate mainly to the irrigation of vegetable and ornamental crops.

Methods for watering plants in the garden

In the technique of watering a fruit-bearing garden, there are some features. If the garden is large, the trees are watered along the furrows between the rows.

At the same time, the distance between the furrows on light soils should be 70-80 cm, on heavy (clay) soils - up to 1.5 m. The depth of the furrows is 20-25 cm, the width is 0.5 m.

But in gardens in summer cottages and household plots, as a rule, watering trees is traditionally carried out in tree trunks, or rather, in ditches dug around their circumference. After watering, circular ditches are covered with earth. You can not water the trees in the recesses of the near-trunk circle, dug in the form of a funnel. In this case, the water does not reach the terminal roots of the tree, and watering closer to the trunk has no practical benefit.

Subsoil irrigation is very effective for watering the garden. For example, on each square meter of the near-trunk area, a soil drill drills a well with a diameter of 10-12 cm and a depth of 50-60 cm, which is clogged with crushed stone, broken brick or coarse sand.

Trees are watered precisely through such wells, and liquid fertilizers are also applied through them. At the same time, a crust does not form on the surface, and all nutrients and precious moisture penetrate immediately into the deep layers of the soil. Such holes can perform their functions for a long time.

A simpler method of watering plants is to punch holes for irrigation with a crowbar, followed by filling them with earth.

Often, gardeners water trees with a hose, throwing it into the tree trunk while doing other things. After some time, the hose is moved to the near-trunk circle of another tree, completely ignoring the amount of water that has entered the roots of the first tree. And it's not hard to set the standard. You only need to know how many buckets are needed to water a particular tree and the time it takes to fill one bucket from a hose. Then it will be possible to judge the amount of water that has entered the near-trunk circle.

The timing of watering for the garden also has its own peculiarity. The most optimal for fruit trees in the central regions of Russia are the following:

• in the spring before the buds open on the trees, when rapid growth begins, and there is not enough water in the soil;
• 15-20 days after the end of the flowering of trees, since at this time the ovaries of fruits start to grow, which fall off when there is insufficient moisture;
• 15-20 days before picking fruits, but not when they ripen;
• in late autumn, in October, during the period of leaf fall (such pre-winter watering is called moisture charging).

Irrigation systems for the garden

When choosing a source of domestic and drinking water supply for a country or manor house, one should take into account local conditions that determine the choice of a particular water intake system. This requires the calculation of water consumption rates, which depend not only on the level of home improvement, but also on the presence of a vegetable garden, orchard, and subsidiary farming. It is necessary to take into account the significant consumption of water for household needs.

Very often, water is supplied to the centralized water supply according to a certain schedule. Therefore, it is recommended to have a guaranteed supply of it on the site. In most cases, when organizing a garden irrigation system, preference is given to underground sources.

For irrigation water supply, a special water supply is sometimes arranged with water supplied through ground pipes or special watercourses.

It is good to water the garden and garden with rainwater, which should be collected and stored in open tanks installed in places where it drains from the roofs.

In shallow areas ground water arrange small-pipe wells for one or more areas adjacent to each other.

Refreshing watering in summer

In order for fruit and berry crops to receive moisture on time and with high quality, the gardener needs to know and apply several types of irrigation. Each of these species is suitable for a certain season and plays a special role in the development of the plant and its protection from adverse conditions.

summer watering(watering in the summer, seasonal watering) is also called regular, or vegetative, regular watering. It is carried out not only in the summer months, but during the entire active growing season (from the end spring frosts before the first autumn frosts). Trees and shrubs begin to need watering immediately after the onset of warm sunny days, when their buds and flowers bloom, shoots come to life. But with a sufficient thickness of snow cover in the first days of the warm period, watering is sometimes not needed: Plants feed on moisture from melting snow.

Refreshing watering, or sprinkling, is carried out in hot weather. This type of irrigation is not acceptable for all crops. Sprinkling should not be carried out during especially hot hours. This type of irrigation increases the humidity of the air and slightly reduces its temperature. Sprinkling is a finely dispersed watering, so you need to use a sprayer, sprayer or a special nozzle on the hose, you can’t just water the plants from above with water streams.

Fertilizer irrigation- this is a special-purpose irrigation, a method of introducing into the soil liquid fertilizer. But at the same time as receiving nutrients with such watering, a tree or shrub also receives the moisture it needs.

Moisture-charging autumn watering of trees in the garden

Moisture-charging (podzimny) watering is used in the fall. It is necessary to create a supply of moisture in the soil. In autumn, after the end of fruiting, trees and shrubs begin to actively develop their absorbing roots, accumulate nutrients in the tissues. Although in this case there may be almost no active suction zone at the roots, all of the above processes require constant optimal soil moisture. In summer, the soil layer, in which the roots of plants are located, dries up to a large extent, therefore, before starting preparations for the cold season, this layer needs high-quality moisture. The roots of plants, which begin to experience a moisture deficit by the fruiting period, also need water-charging irrigation. At the same time, mechanical absorption of moisture (through the pores in the wood of the roots) begins to predominate in autumn, and not physiological (with the help of active absorbing roots).

After correctly carried out autumn watering of trees, the soil becomes more resistant to cooling, releases heat more slowly (i.e., after watering, its heat capacity increases). The plants themselves, with their buds, are better able to tolerate lower temperatures.

Moisture-charging irrigation begins in the second half of September and ends in early October. These irrigations should not depend on the rains coming or missing during the specified period: even heavy showers cannot compensate for the lack of moisture in the root layer of the soil, so this type of irrigation should be carried out in any weather.

The soil during autumn watering of the garden is moistened to a sufficiently large depth (more than during summer watering). Each plant has its own recommendations for water charging irrigation, including the depth of soil wetting and the depth of the annular groove for irrigation. The fact is that the soil must be moistened to a depth of 90-100 cm, and it is impossible to achieve this with ordinary surface irrigation, therefore ring grooves are needed (only sandy soils can be an exception, even light loams need grooves). In different plants, the root system is located at different distances from the soil surface, therefore, the depth of the grooves, for example, for apple and cherry trees, will not be the same. Grooves are dug around the trunk at a distance of 60-80 cm from each other.

How to water the trees in the garden in accordance with the norms? The irrigation rate is determined in liters for each tree, depending on its species and age (fruitful or young). The rate can be reduced if during the main growing season seasonal waterings were carried out regularly and plentifully. In this case, first check the condition of the soil, digging it with a shovel. Unlike summer watering, the earth is soaked not only to the depth of placement of thin roots, but a little deeper (about 10 cm). After watering, the grooves are filled (if necessary) with fertilizer and leveled with a hoe.

Moisture-charging watering of trees is carried out by uniformly moistening the soil in the near-trunk circle, pouring water into wells specially made in the near-trunk circle or into a furrow that is dug around the near-trunk circle. The main thing is that the soil is saturated with water to a great depth, to the zone where the roots are located.

In this case, you should be careful: you can not overmoisten the soil, i.e., when sprinkling, water should go in small quantities and through a very fine spray mesh. It is also important to know that the most dangerous effect on plants is night frosts (before 5 o'clock in the morning).

Anti-frost watering: how to water plants before frost

Anti-frost irrigation (watering before frost) is carried out in early spring and late autumn to protect the vegetative parts of plants from frost. Fruit and berry crops are especially susceptible to frost damage during flowering and ovary formation: the crop may not only decrease, but die completely.

Water has a high heat capacity; when temperatures drop, it releases heat, increasing the thermal conductivity of the soil after moistening the latter. In the spring, light frosts affect plants less if the soil under them is moderately moistened. In autumn, the danger is reduced due to the heat reserve associated with the heat capacity of water. Water for watering plants before frost low temperatures air (but not negative - in this case, watering is contraindicated) is often warmer than the soil and air, i.e. it is a source of heat in itself. In this case, the leaves can be completely moistened with a sprayer or a spray nozzle on the hose. But this measure is effective only in the absence of the threat of severe frosts. Anti-frost irrigation by sprinkling is carried out at a temperature not colder than -2 ... -7 ° C. The temperature is observed precisely at the level of the location of the flowers and buds of the plant. At negative temperatures, sprinkling allows the formation of an ice crust on the leaves, under which the temperature does not drop below 0 ° C, so that the vegetative parts of the plant do not freeze through.

Watering before frost begins about two days before the onset of cold weather. For sprinkling, spray nozzles are used, located, as a rule, on devices automatic watering. The fact is that during freezing, sprinkling should not be interrupted for more than 20–40 minutes, otherwise the air temperature may drop sharply, and the reverse (negative) effect of the procedure will occur. Therefore, sprinkling should be continuous, in extreme cases it can be carried out with interruptions of several minutes.

Ways of watering the garden and vegetable garden: surface method and sprinkling system

There are three methods of garden irrigation: surface irrigation, sprinkler irrigation and subsoil irrigation.

There are several surface watering methods, not all of them are suitable for a garden plot.

1. Surface irrigation in furrows. It is carried out as follows. In the aisles, furrows 20-30 cm wide are made with a slight slope, into which water is supplied from a watering hose. At the end of watering, after a while, the furrows are closed.

2. Surface watering in bowls. When applying this method, they dig a hole in the form of a bowl under the crown of a fruit tree. The size of the bowl, i.e. its diameter, depends on the age of the tree, the density of plantings, but it should not be less than the projection of the crown of the tree itself. An earthen roller 20-25 cm high is poured along the edges of the finished hole. The bowls under neighboring trees are connected by a common groove. Water is supplied to this groove from a watering hose, and already through the groove the water enters the wells.

When using irrigation by sprinkling, moisture gets not only into the soil, but also into the air. Water entering the soil through the air is enriched with oxygen, carbon dioxide and nitrogen compounds. Sprinkler irrigation differs from surface irrigation in that surface irrigation requires careful planning and leveling. land plot. This is due to the fact that water during irrigation does not move over the surface of the soil, thereby not washing away its fertile layer.

Before watering the garden by sprinkling, the soil must be loosened, and if necessary, fertilizers are applied. For such watering, special devices are required - sprinklers. These devices can be fan-shaped, pulsed, or pistol-shaped. They spray water at different heights and in different directions, and the height, direction and even size of the drops can be adjusted. Devices are installed under the crowns of shrubs and fruit trees and used for watering the surface layer.

Water the garden, lawns and flower beds by sprinkling only in the evening, when there is no bright sun. If you do this during the day, the leaves of the plants will get burned, since the water droplets act as a collective lens and focus the sun's rays.

Methods for irrigating an orchard

There are several ways to irrigate a garden, the most popular of which are semi-soil and drip.

Subsoil irrigation. When using this irrigation method, a system of pottery, asbestos-cement or polyethylene pipes, through the openings of which water under pressure is supplied to the soil. Sometimes, with such irrigation of the orchard, along with water, fertilizers are also supplied to the roots of the plant.

The main disadvantage of this method is its high cost. Laying pipes throughout the site is a very laborious task, and should be carried out at the planning stage of the garden plot and construction. In addition, the quality of irrigation water often leaves much to be desired, so the pipes serve for a relatively short time, quickly become clogged and silted up.

Drip irrigation. This is a type of subsurface irrigation. This method is very convenient and easy to perform. Drip irrigation is carried out according to the system plastic pipes small diameter. Under one fruit tree or berry bush, 2-3 droppers are placed at a depth of 30-35 cm. The advantage of this type of irrigation is that water consumption is reduced several times, and it is also possible to constantly maintain the necessary soil moisture. In addition, fertilizer application can be carried out along with the water supply.

Rules for watering plants in the garden and in the garden

Rational watering of plants according to the rules includes several mandatory components.

1. Optimum water temperature for irrigation.

2. Watering method. It is possible to water under the root and together with the leaves, as well as sprinkling (watering through a sprayer from above). Sprinkling can be not only superficial (with wetting of leaves and branches), but also basal - in this case, only the soil in the near-stem circle is wetted, but with the help of sprinkler nozzles, due to which there is no erosion of the soil and leaching of nutrients from it due to the large water pressure. For different plants in different periods of the year, these types of irrigation are required in different proportions.

3. Watering time. Usually watering is carried out in the morning or in the evening. In the hot period of the day, when sprinkling, burns on the leaves may appear, and it is better to water under the root not at the very height of the day.

4. The amount of water. Irrigation rates usually indicate either a unit area or a single plant. For trees and large shrubs, the latter option is more typical.

5. But there are also general rules glaze applicable to all fruit and berry crops.

6. Soil moisture should be optimal. Waterlogged soil - serious problem, as well as drying out of the soil, since it can reduce the plant's resistance to pests and diseases, worsen soil aeration. A lump of optimally moistened soil should be compressed in the hand without water release and without spilling. This indicator is suitable even for sandy soils.

7. The rate of moisture absorption by the soil depends on the mechanical composition of the soil. Heavy loams are more slowly soaked with water, so it is better to moisten the soil with not too much water pressure (for a longer time), but using more of it. Sandy soils need to be watered more often, because moisture is not able to linger in such soils for a long time, and the soil dries out faster. Observing this rule of watering the garden, clay soils are watered less often so as not to cause waterlogging, because moisture can “stand” in them for a long time.

8. Watering woody plants should be rare and plentiful. Frequent watering "a little bit" is more harmful than useful. Watering is carried out, as a rule, to the depth of the active (thin, absorbent) roots of the plant.

9. The average rate of one-time watering for trees aged 3–5 years is 50–80 liters per plant or more. The same indicator for trees aged 7-10 years is 120-150 liters.

10. Fruit-bearing trees and shrubs need more abundant watering than young plants of the same species.

11. Any watering under the root(not only moisture charging) can be carried out into the annular grooves. After watering, if necessary, fertilizers are poured into the grooves, covered with soil or mulching material.

12. You should not water trees and shrubs in the near-stem funnel, and even more so pour water on the root neck of the tree. With such watering, moisture will flow in excess to the main (tap) root and in deficiency - to the peripheral (active) roots. But it is the peripheral roots that are absorbent, that is, they absorb the main amount of nutrients and moisture for the plant. Therefore, the main place for watering is a circle, which is a projection of the crown on the surface of the earth, as well as the soil near this circle. In general, watering in the near-trunk circle should be uniform, without "dry" places.

13. Unusual, but effective method glaze- with the help of wells previously made under the tree with a diameter of 10–12 cm and the depth necessary for irrigating a certain crop. Wells are drilled and filled with pebbles, crushed stone, broken bricks or coarse sand. One well is arranged per m2 of the near-stem circle area.

14. During normal watering with a hose it is difficult to determine the volume of water that has entered the soil. It is possible, before starting such irrigation, by turning on the water at a certain pressure, to calculate how long it will take for water with such pressure to fill a container, for example, with a volume of 10 liters. Then, by simple calculations, it is easy to find out how long it will take to water a particular plant in this way.

15. Seasonal watering is essential, as a rule, during the following periods of vegetation of trees and shrubs: before spring bud break; 2-3 weeks after the end of flowering; 2-3 weeks before harvest. The rest of the time, watering is carried out as needed and for special purposes (water-charging, anti-frost, refreshing, fertilizing).

16. Tree or shrub feeding area usually determined approximately by the diameter of the crown (slightly wider than the projection of the crown on the surface of the earth). This indicator is useful to know for calculating irrigation.

17. If during watering a young tree or shrub surface roots are exposed, they should be immediately covered with moist soil.

To understand whether a particular plant needs watering, it is necessary to assess the condition of the soil next to it. Its moisture should not be determined from the top layer, which is most often dry (this is due to the fact that most of the moisture is lost from the soil surface during evaporation). You should pay attention to the active layer of the soil, where the root system of the plant is located. If we talk about fruit trees, such as apple, pear, then this layer is at a depth of 90-120 cm, for cherries, plums and apricots - at a depth of 80 cm, for berry crops - 50 cm.

To assess soil moisture along the periphery of the crown, plants dig a small hole up to 1 m deep, take a lump of soil from the wall of the hole and squeeze it in their hand. If a lump forms and does not break when falling from a height of 1.5 m, then the soil moisture is about 70%. If the lump of earth crumbles, this means that the soil needs watering.

The optimal level of soil moisture is considered to be a level equal to 75-80%. In order to keep moisture in the soil for as long as possible, after watering it is loosened and peat or rotted sawdust is introduced into it.

How to properly water trees and other plants in the garden

And a few more tips on how to properly water the garden to ensure abundant flowering and good yields.

First watering necessary for plants in the spring, when the buds have not blossomed. During this period, the phase of its active growth begins, and it really needs moisture.

Second watering should be carried out approximately 15-20 days after the end of the growing season of trees and shrubs, since it is at this time that the growth of the ovaries occurs, and if the soil is too dry, then just set fruits may fall off.

Third watering spend 15-20 days before removing fruits from trees and shrubs.

If the third watering is carried out immediately before harvesting, this can lead to falling off and cracking of the fruit.

And the last watering is carried out in late autumn, when active leaf fall begins. It is also called moisture-charging.

Early varieties of apple and pear trees require less water than later ones.

If you carry out excessive watering of pear trees, they can suffer from excess moisture.

Stone fruits of fruit trees (apricot, cherry, plum) should be watered less frequently than pome fruits (apple, pear).

Expecting a rich harvest from certain trees or shrubs, special attention should be paid to watering these particular trees or shrubs. They will need more water than trees with lower yields or those that are resting from fruiting.

Rain watering helps save budding trees from frost, which often occurs in spring. Swollen buds and flower buds are the most vulnerable parts of fruit trees, and they must be protected from exposure to low and negative temperatures in order to preserve the crop.

Young fruit trees need to be watered less than adults. This is especially true in the second half of summer, since excessive moisture will provoke additional growth of shoots that will freeze during the winter.

With frequent use of fertilizers and the accumulation of salts in the soil of the garden, which harms the growth of most plants, flush watering is carried out. A large amount of water washes out the salts dissolved in it to a great depth, clearing the soil layer in which the bulk of the roots are located. For flush irrigation, 2000-8000 liters of water are consumed for every 10 m2 of soil. The need for it may arise if for plant nutrition used for a long time in large quantities mineral fertilizers, natural organic fertilizers (compost, manure, peat) do not cause such an effect, although they also need to be dosed.

Plants require water for normal growth and development, although the amount varies greatly depending on the type of plant.

As a rule, water is absorbed by the roots from the substrate, although epiphytic plants absorb it to a greater extent by the leaves than by the roots. Evaporation of moisture occurs from the entire above-ground surface of the plant, mainly from the surface of the leaves. As a result, a suction force is created, due to which water is constantly absorbed from the soil. Therefore, the substrate must always contain enough moisture to meet the needs of the plant.

But the roots also need air, which is in the gaps between the particles of the substrate. If these voids are filled with water, the roots will rot and the plant will die.

That's why watering indoor plants- a delicate question, since these plants have very little soil around the roots.

more plants dies from waterlogging of the soil than from any other cause.

Dishes for watering indoor plants.

Most Wanted equipment for watering indoor plants - this is watering can with long spout , although many devices have been invented to determine the plant's need for watering or to carry it out when the owner is not at home.

If you put a sieve on the spout, you can wash off the dust from the leaves, for which you need to use soft water; hard water leaves lime stains on them.

Some houseplants that require highly moist soil (for example, cyperus), can be placed in instead of watering tray with water so that the water reaches ground level. If the tray is wide enough, then the constant evaporation of water from it will create a more humid atmosphere.

Use to increase humidity. manual sprayer .

How often to water indoor plants?

Each plant has its own water requirements. That, how often to water indoor plants depends on many factors. Watering frequency - the value is not constant; it depends on the size of the plant, the size of the pot, on environmental conditions and especially on the time of year . Therefore, you need to be guided by your observations.

Plants from deserts, swamps, plants from climates with variable humidity have found shelter in our rooms. Accordingly, they are watered differently.

Often, when they see wilted leaves, they begin to water the plant more abundantly. This is not entirely correct, since there are many reasons for wilting. Feel the soil in the pot: if it is dry, the plant really needs to be watered, but if the soil is damp, wilting may be due to over watering. At the same time, the roots, not receiving enough oxygen, gradually die off, then putrefactive bacteria settle on them, and the plant begins to hurt. Watering should be reduced. Let the roots breathe, let the plant rest from the water.

Wilting is also caused by pests or pathogens. And in this case, watering should be reduced.

Withering of the leaves of indoor plants can occur under the influence of sunlight, on the first clear day after a long cloudy weather. And before sinning for improper watering, other errors should be excluded that give a similar reaction of a houseplant.

Do not turn watering into a regular ritual that is performed, for example, every Sunday. Each plant has its own correct time interval between waterings - balsam may require daily watering in summer, and astrophytum cactus does not need water at all in winter.

The earth in pots should, as a rule, be in a moderately moist state. Do not allow abrupt transitions from lack of moisture to its excess. This means that watering should be regular and uniform. The need of indoor plants for water is determined by their specific features: the structure of above-ground organs, the power of the root system, etc.

The interval between watering in different plants varies depending on the season and changes in the conditions of detention.

Araucaria

Plants with succulent, fleshy leaves (such as agave, aloe, etc.) need less water than plants with large leaves, which sometimes need to be watered twice a day.

A newly rooted cutting needs much less water than a mature plant.

For bulbous plants, excess moisture is harmful. It is best to water them by directing the stream of water not at the bulb, but closer to the walls of the pot, or water from a pan.

There are plants that are very sensitive to lack of moisture, such as araucaria. When its branches begin to hang down, then no amount of watering will help.

In winter, during the dormant period, the growth of indoor plants slows down or stops, at this time indoor plants need less water and water them much less often, sometimes up to 2-3 times a month, waterlogging of the soil should be avoided.

On the contrary, in spring and summer, when the houseplant has a period of growth and flowering, watering is needed more often (perhaps from one to three times a week). With a slight overdrying, young shoots of a houseplant, buds and flowers may suffer.

The need for water increases with increasing temperature and increasing light intensity. Plants in small pots and those that have not been transplanted for a long time require more frequent watering than plants in large containers or those that have just been transplanted. Plants in ceramic pots should be watered more frequently than those in plastic; plants in double pots require less frequent watering.

There is Golden Rule watering indoor plants - it is better to water less, but more often than less often and in large quantities.

Water for watering indoor plants.

Watering indoor plants is advised only with soft water - rain, river or pond. The most familiar rainwater. It is to this water that the leaves of most plants are accustomed, so it is best suited for spraying.

Hard water (including well water) containing various salts should be avoided.

The main element, the content of which must be taken into account when watering, is calcium. It enters the water as it passes through limestone, chalk, dolomite, gypsum and other calcareous rocks. At the same time, the water becomes hard (soap foam is poorly formed in it). The hardness of water is due to the formation of scale on the walls of kettles, plaque on water taps and pipes.

Exactly the same plaque of poorly soluble calcium salts is formed when plants are watered with hard water. Remember that not all plants can tolerate an increased concentration of calcium. Of course, this element is necessary for the normal life of any plant. However, you only apply other fertilizers from time to time, and calcium with each watering.

Aroids, azaleas, orchids, ferns, and camellias are especially resistant to hard water.

Those houseplants that grow on calcareous soils tolerate watering with hard water well.

But, given the state of our ecology, the pollution of natural reservoirs, as well as the possible contamination of rainwater with industrial emissions (if you live in an industrial area or not far from it), watering houseplants with tap water is not such a bad solution.

However, before watering houseplants, chlorinated tap water must be left to stand for at least a day so that the chlorine has time to evaporate.

Do not use settled water to the last drop. If sediment has formed at the bottom, then it will be better for the plants if it does not fall into the pot.

The water temperature for watering indoor plants should be at least at least room temperature. This rule is especially important when watering tropical houseplants. Cacti are recommended to be watered more than warm water. Watering indoor plants cold water can cause root rot, bud drop and even plant death.

On the contrary, watering indoor plants with warm water in a cold room is also not desirable, because. this will lead to premature growth of the houseplant.

Proper watering of indoor plants.

For most plants during the growth period, the substrate should be kept slightly moist. Water the plant until water begins to seep through the drainage holes in the pot. Leave the plant for 10 to 30 minutes, and then drain off the water that remains on the pan. Do not re-water until the surface of the substrate is dry to the touch: the surface of the substrate dries first and the substrate itself is still moist inside.

Warm conditions require more frequent watering.

In winter, for most plants, the amount of moisture should be limited. During this period, growth slows down or stops altogether, so the roots require less water, and they are more prone to rotting in cool conditions.

Some species require frequent watering, and they should not be allowed to dry out; and a plant such as cyperus has adapted to the constant presence of roots in the water.

Some plants, such as cacti, prefer dry conditions and need only a small amount of moisture.

How to properly water indoor plants?

How to water indoor plants.

There are several ways to water indoor plants. They depend on the dishes in which you planted the plants, pallets and on the characteristics of the plant itself.

The most traditional and easiest way to water is from above. The surface of the substrate is moistened with a watering can. The soil should not be eroded with a sharp stream, it is better to water in small portions so that the water does not stagnate, flooding the bases of the leaves and stems. It is undesirable to spray water on the leaves when watering. It is best to use a watering can with a long spout for this.

The appearance of water in the pan is a sign that the plant has been watered enough. Wait until all excess moisture has collected in the pan, and then drain it. With this method of watering, the mineral salts necessary for plant growth are quickly washed out of the pot. To compensate for this loss, feed the plants regularly, especially during the growth period.

However, many plants, such as cyclamens, do not like splashing water on their leaves, causing them to rot. In this case, bottom irrigation is used. With bottom irrigation, water is poured directly into the pan. Due to capillary forces, water rises up the substrate and evaporates from the surface. After 30 minutes, excess water must be drained from the pan.

Lower watering can also be used if the clod of earth is very dry and a gap has formed between the wall of the pot and the soil. With top watering, water quickly drains into the pan, without moistening the substrate, and only by lowering the pot into water, good wetting is achieved.

Lower watering, compared to the upper one, has the opposite drawback: salts accumulate in an excessive amount in the pot. One of the signs of this is the formation of a lime crust on the soil. This crust can serve as a source of infection for plants, in addition, the roots of many plants are damaged from excess salts. The crust is removed with the top layer of earth 1.5 - 2 cm and a new substrate is poured into the pot.

If the substrate is very dry, place the pot up to the brim in a container of water and leave until completely moistened, but do not allow water to overflow over the top of the pot. Allow the water to drain properly before placing the plant on the tray.

By "bathing" the pot in water, Saintpaulias, cyclamens and all other plants that do not tolerate water on the leaves are watered.

When watering the bottom, do not forget to feed the plants. However, shortly before feeding, rinse the earthen ball by watering from above or repeatedly lowering the pot into the water.

Types of watering indoor plants.

Infrequent watering of indoor plants.

Houseplants are left dry for days, weeks, months. Rare watering is suitable for cacti and succulents, as well as deciduous tuberous and bulbous indoor plants that have a dormant period (crinum, gloxinia, hippeastrum, caladium).

1. Allow the substrate to dry half to two thirds before watering. Check the moisture content of the substrate with a stick.

2. Water the plant from above - water should be absorbed into the substrate, but not flow out onto the pan.

3. Again check the moisture content of the substrate with a stick, add a little more water if necessary.

Moderate watering of indoor plants.

Indoor plants are not watered immediately after the earthen coma dries out, but after one or two days, that is, when the earth in the pot dries out.

Moderate watering is applied to indoor plants with fleshy or strongly pubescent stems and leaves (paperomia, columna), with thick roots and rhizomes (palms, dracaena, aspidistra, aroid), as well as with water-bearing tubers on the roots (asparagus, chlorophytum, arrowroot) and bulbous .

For some types of indoor plants, light drying is a prerequisite during the dormant period, as it stimulates the laying and ripening of flower buds (zygocactus, clivia).

1. Allow the top 13 mm of substrate to dry before watering. Check moisture by touch.

2. Water the plant from above until the entire substrate is completely damp, but not wet.

3. If some water leaks into the pan, drain it and stop watering. Do not let the plant stand in water.

How to understand that we have a plant suffering from waterlogging? Leaf drop is one of the symptoms. In a number of plants, such as citrus fruits, they fall off in the literal sense - they darken and fall off. In others, for example, in aroids (aglaonema, dieffenbachia) or arrowroot, they darken, but still stay on the stems for a long time. In plants that form rosettes of leaves or pseudo rosettes (yucca, dracaena), the leaves do not darken immediately, but first become discolored, becoming pale yellow. But in other cases, the characteristic difference between leaves that die from waterlogging is the darkening of the leaf. The leaf does not just turn yellow, it just darkens, the color becomes from a healthy juicy green dirty swamp shade, gradually turning into brown. If waterlogging was preceded by overdrying, then the leaf first turns yellow, then the petiole of the leaf and the leaf itself darken.

Decayed roots exfoliate, the top layer of the root becomes dirty gray, peels off if you run your fingers, a thin hard core remains. These roots all died from waterlogging.

And these are healthy living roots - green, yellowish or whitish, in some plants of succulent Brown color.

Sudden or gradual falling of leaves, blackening of shoots, damp, sour earth ...

The trunk still seems alive, green, but the roots have rotted, the plant can no longer be saved.

When the plant does not have enough water, the leaves always turn yellow, while the leaf tissues may lose elasticity, droop, or remain dry. After watering, the turgor is restored, the leaves become elastic again. If there is insufficient nutrition, then interveinal chlorosis may appear, the leaves do not droop, continue to grow, but become smaller. When waterlogged, the leaves may lose their elasticity, wilt, but after watering, the elasticity is not restored, and the darkening of the leaves, on the contrary, increases. Sometimes the leaves can fall off even without darkening - still green. But leaf fall can also occur from watering with cold water. Ideally, the temperature of the water for irrigation should be 2-3°C higher than the temperature in the room, but not lower than 22°C. Cold water is not absorbed by the roots, causes the suction roots to die from hypothermia, and, as a result, the leaves fall off.

As for the hardness of the water, it cannot be the cause of the sudden fall of the leaves and the death of the plant. If you water the plants with hard water, even the most capricious, sensitive to excess salts, the plants will not begin to massively lose leaves. All the damage manifests itself gradually: at first, chlorosis spots appear, the tips or edges of the leaves turn brown, one or two leaves turn yellow, new leaves grow small and the plant looks oppressed, but the leaves do not fall off.

In case of massive leaf fall, when the leaves fall off not one after another, but dozens at once, the reasons may be the following: sudden hypothermia (for example, when transporting home), watering with concentrated fertilizer (burning the roots), severe drying, and only hygrophytes and mesohygrophytes fly around in large numbers (and there are few of them), and waterlogging. Naturally, the first two reasons can be easily calculated, and it is also possible to distinguish overdrying from waterlogging, but for this the plant must be removed from the pot. Feeling the soil with your finger at a depth is not always possible (for example, the roots have grown strongly), and only by taking the plant out of the pot can you determine whether the earth is wet inside the root ball.

Some flower growers pull to the last, not wanting to take out the plant and inspect the roots. They are either selflessly sure that there was no waterlogging, or they are afraid that an unscheduled transplant will damage the plant. But if there is even the slightest suspicion of waterlogging, there is no need to doubt - take out and inspect the roots. Sometimes the root system of plants grows in this way: at the top the roots are not thick, the soil dries easily between them, and in the lower part of the pot the roots twist a dense ring, the interlacing of the roots makes it difficult to dry and in the lower part of the pot the soil dries for a very long time. This is especially aggravated by the fact that the holes at the bottom of the pot are small, clogged with pebbles or grains of earth.

On mandarin, the result of waterlogging and acidification of the earth. Chlorosis is a lack of various trace elements.

Such a deplorable state is the result of hypothermia of the root system: watering with cold water or the plant is left with damp earth on a cold balcony, on the street.

There is also a deplorable symptom, characteristic of the strongest prolonged waterlogging - darkening, blackening and withering of the tops of the shoots. If a similar picture occurred, then the matter is already very much running, it is often simply impossible to save the plant. If the tops of all shoots are rotten (yellowed or darkened), there is nothing to save. A similar picture is possible only with strong hypothermia of the roots, and never occurs when overdrying. When overdrying, wilting begins with old leaves, from the lower shoots, the trunk is exposed from below. When waterlogged, the leaves wither in any part of the crown, but more often from above, from the tops of the shoots.

And of course, any softening of the stems or leaves of plants with fleshy parts of the body, and these are yuccas, dracaenas, dieffenbachia, any succulents (fatties, adeniums, etc.), cacti - a sure sign of excess moisture.

Another symptom that is not entirely true and does not always indicate a specific plant, but still makes you think - the presence of fungal mosquitoes. If a swarm of midges flies up from the pot, it means that you watered the flowers too abundantly, perhaps it was once or twice, or perhaps it became a habit of watering excessively. Unlike mosquitoes, podura (colembolas) are white or dirty gray insects, about 1-2 mm, jumping on the surface of the earth in a pot - a sure sign that the flower is poured more than once.

Measures to save flooded plants

When you nevertheless established that the plant was flooded, you need to urgently take action. If you established the fact of waterlogging after you took the plant out of the pot, then you have to transplant. If the fact of waterlogging was determined by indirect signs (leaf fall, damp earth to the touch), then the need for a transplant depends on the severity of the situation.

• If the plant has lost one or two leaves, or one branch has faded in a mighty crown, and the soil in the pot is light enough, then you can not replant the plant, but only loosen the soil. After watering, especially plentiful, the soil spreads, and after drying, a dense crust forms on its surface. If this crust is not destroyed, then the roots suffer from a lack of air. If seed plantings are watered, then seedlings may not come to the surface of the earth and die from hypoxia.
• If there are small drainage holes in the pot, you can expand them or increase their number without removing the plant from the pot, using a knife heated on the stove.
• Personally, I never try to just loosen the earth, it is not very reliable and justified in cases where the flooded plant is in a very large pot, transplanting is difficult, or when the plant is transferred from a cold room to a warm one, and the very increase in temperature will accelerate the drying of the earth.
• In all other cases, it is better to transplant the plant.

Signs of a bay in orchids - phalaenopsis leaves turn yellow, they are sluggish, wrinkled. The bark dries for a very long time, from constant contact with a damp surface, the roots rot.

Rotten roots must be cut off. In some cases, the new pot will have to pick up a smaller size than it was.

So, you take the plant out of the pot, and you need to determine the condition of the earth and the roots. Is the earth still damp and how much? Count when you last watered, how much it dried. Sometimes a person is convinced that the earth has been dry for a long time, say, a week has passed after watering, and upon examination it turns out that the earth inside the pot is still very damp. Then try to remember what the weather was like, how it happened that the soil did not have time to dry out! It is important to at least try to analyze in order to prevent this, or to calculate which plants could still be flooded. For some people, bays happen systematically over and over again. This suggests that it is necessary to radically revise the care system: perhaps change the soil in pots to a more structured, loose one, increase drainage holes, add more drainage to the bottom of the pot; water with less water; rearrange the plants in a warmer room or water less often when the ground dries out more. Sometimes you need to literally slap yourself on the hands so that you don’t rise with a watering can over the plant ahead of time ...

Examine the roots. The rotten ones are immediately visible - they delaminate, if you grab the spine with two fingers and pull, the skin slides off it - it is brown or dark gray, under it there is a bundle of vessels similar to a wire, a hard rod. If such a stratification has occurred, the root is rotten. Healthy roots do not delaminate, if you run your fingers over the surface, the top layer will not be removed. In some cases, the roots do not exfoliate, the fleshy juicy roots rot completely, and this is also immediately visible - they are dark, dirty gray or brown, sometimes softened. It is often possible to determine healthy roots and rotten ones by the contrast of their appearance, some are light, white, light brown, others are dark, not only on the outside, but also on a break or breakage.

There are times when rotten roots break off easily and, when the plant is taken out of the pot, fall off along with the ground. If you did not find definitely rotten roots, but the earth and root ball are damp, you need to dry them. To do this, we wet the measles lump in any hygroscopic material: in a pile of old newspapers, in a roll of toilet paper. You can even put a plant with an open root system (without a pot) to dry for several hours.

Having found rotten roots, you need to cut them off, no matter how many there are. This is a source of infection, there is nothing to regret here. We cut everything down to healthy tissue. If the roots are fleshy, juicy, watery, then it is advisable to sprinkle the cut points with charcoal (wood, birch) or sulfur powder (sold in pet stores). If neither is available, interpret an activated charcoal tablet. If there are very few roots left, much less than it was, you need to transplant the plant into a smaller pot.

I have already said that in itself a too spacious pot, not filled with roots, does not contribute rapid growth plants, and in some cases even harm. In a spacious pot, the plant is easier to fill with light. And even if watered carefully, the plant tends to build up the root system, master a large surface of the earth, and only then enhances the growth of the ground part.

Substrate for aroid, bromeliad and other plants. Instead of a pot, a basket, substrate: earth, coconut fiber, coconut substrate, wine cork, pine bark and moss (its very smallness). The rotting anthurium, transplanted into this mixture, bloomed in a month, and releases the third bud.

If you tend to water the plants, then use clay pots to plant the plants. But there is one important point: the inside of the pot should not be glazed. If the walls of a clay pot are glazed on the inside, it is no better than a plastic one.

So, you need to pick up a pot under the root ball remaining after removing the rot. In this case, the rule will be effective: a smaller pot is better than a larger one. It's okay if the pot is small, healthy roots will grow, notify you with their appearance from the drainage holes, and you just transfer the plant to a larger pot and that's it. During the growing season, plants can be transplanted at any time and more than once. Most plants, if they get sick after transplantation, stop growing, then this is most often due to improper care after transplantation, and not from root injuries.

After transplantation, plants should not be placed in the sun, even the most light-loving ones, they should be under shade for a week. You can not water the plants on the same day, especially those resuscitated from overflow - these are generally watered for the first time after 2-3 days. You can not fertilize transplanted plants for 1-1.5 months. And when transplanting patients (including flooded ones), dry fertilizers (neither manure, nor litter, nor granular fertilizers) can be added. Do not plug a transplanted plant in plastic bag. This very package sometimes becomes a real evil. The fact is that transplanted plants, deprived of watering, must be placed in conditions of high humidity in the first days. And many tend to put the plant in a bag and tie it tight. In this case, the importance, of course, increases. But the supply of oxygen is reduced. As we remember, the plant breathes with both roots and leaves, if the plant was flooded, it especially needs fresh air, and if pathogenic microorganisms developed on it - various spots of fungal or bacterial origin, then it just needs fresh air!

Here you can do this: place the plant in a transparent bag, straighten its edges, but do not tie it. If the weather is very hot, then you can spray 1-2 times a day, if the plants do not tolerate water on the leaves, then simply place the pot on a wide pan with water on an inverted saucer.

If the plant has rotten tops, the ends of the shoots, they must be cut to healthy tissues. If possible, at the same time cut the plant - cut off healthy branches for rooting in order to be able to save at least something if the bay has already led to irreversible consequences. Sometimes it happens that the roots rot completely, but some of the shoots are still vigorous until they fade (this is temporary) and cuttings can still be cut from them. In some cases, when the roots rot, toxins (the aforementioned swamp gases, products of bacteria and fungi) enter the vascular system of plants and cut cuttings, even healthy-looking ones do not take root, they are already doomed ...

After transplantation, the flooded plant can be sprayed with growth stimulants (epin or amulet), only at night (most stimulants decompose in the light). If the leaves have dark spots, rotten tops of the shoots, it is advisable to spray the plant with a fungicide, or add the fungicide to the water for irrigation. From fungicides suitable: Fundazol, Maxim, Hom, Oksikhom (and other copper-containing preparations). 3-4 days after transplanting into fresh, dry soil, the plant can be watered with a solution of zircon.

If a plant with a wide rosette of leaves turned out to be flooded, in the form of a funnel, like in bromeliads, then it is necessary to dry the bases of the leaves. To do this, you first need to turn the plant upside down with leaves. When the water drains, pour 2-3 tablets of crushed activated carbon into the outlet. After 3-5 minutes, gently remove it with a soft fluffy brush. Many bromeliads rot when watered through a rosette of leaves in winter. Read carefully the recommendations for growing a particular plant, and especially care in the winter.

Another important point: after flooding, the soil in the pot turns sour: the roots of the plants continue to emit carbon dioxide, the renewal of humus slows down, and humic acids accumulate, which increases the acidity of the soil, many nutrients turn into a form that is indigestible by plants. For example, iron goes into its oxidized form (F3+), which causes a rusty-brown crust to form on the surface of the earth. Oxidized iron is not absorbed, as a result, the plant shows all the signs of its deficiency - severe chlorosis. This is especially noticeable on fruit plants: there are signs of deficiency of calcium, iron, nitrogen. At this stage, some flower growers do not pay attention to the condition of the soil, and are in a hurry to treat the effect, not the cause. As a result, the plant continues to suffer, turn yellow. At times it gets better (for example, after spraying with Ferovit), and after fertilizing the soil, it gets even worse.

In such a situation, the only way out is complete replacement earth. And if you are in a hurry to fertilize, then it is advisable to wash the roots when transplanting under a jet warm water. Then dry, remove the rotten ones, sprinkle with charcoal and plant in fresh, dry soil.

If a white or red salt crust forms on the surface of the earth, this is a signal: the earth dries for a long time! Such a salt crust must be removed, the top layer of the earth must be replaced with a fresh one.

Olga Gorbatova
Labor in nature "Teaching children to water indoor plants" (younger group)

Program tasks:

Learn children practical skills watering

introduce children with the structure of the labor process

Cultivate an attitude towards plants as to living beings, to cultivate the desire to regret plant effectively help him

vocabulary work:

Plant, watering can, pot with a pallet, stem, leaves, root, water, wet earth, beautiful, healthy.

Equipment:

Models labor process, apron, oilcloth, watering can, flower in a pot with a tray

Aprons, oilcloths, water cans, flowers in pots with a pallet

preliminary work:

Watching plant(acquaintance with the features of appearance, structure, observation of plant in favorable and unfavorable conditions (lack of moisture, observation of the labor of a teacher to water the plants of a corner of nature(acquaintance with the model labor process)

OD move

Organization children:

Children stand at tables arranged with the letter P

Introduction

Children, Mishka came to us and brought a flower with him.

The bear greets the children.

Guys, let's ask Mishka why he is so sad, not funny?

Bear says he is sad because his favorite the plant was so beautiful, as in the picture (shows the model, you have now become like this (shows plant) . Mishka says he doesn't know what happened to him, he's sorry plant That's why he's sad.

And you feel sorry for Mishkino plant? (yeah, sorry)

Let's take pity on Mishka, say kind words to him, don't cry Mishka, we will help you, and you will be cheerful, joyful again.

Children, why Mishkino the plant became?What did he forget to do?

Let's hear what he's asking plant.

The plant asks to have it watered and then it will get better.

Guys, Mishka says he can't water now probably his the plant will die.

Children, can we help Mishka? (Can)

How? (we can teach him water the plant)

goal setting:

Let's teach Mishka the right way water the plant

Children, we want plant how did you feel? (Good)

To become what? (speaks with children; to plant it felt good to have the leaves pointing up, for the stalk to look up, for the ground to be moist). In order not to forget about it, put a picture (model - plant in good condition)

Which plant now? (survey in progress plants: condition of leaves, stem, ground). In order not to forget what plant now, put a picture (model - plant in poor condition). plant need to help soon. To do this, you need to choose the right tools.

Children, Mishka says that he knows what to do.

Look, he brought a watering can. Look, the watering can has a handle so that we can hold the watering can, the watering can has a spout, water pours out of the spout, there is a hole, water is poured into the watering can into this hole.

Children, what is missing in Mishka's watering can? (water)

What kind of watering can you take? In order not to forget that you need to take a watering can with water, put a picture (model - means labor: watering can)

Now what are we going to do?

Children, Mishka says that he remembered how water and wants to show us (Mishka holds a watering can with one hand, pours water on the leaves, under the root, wants to pour all the water from the watering can at once).

Bear, you are wrong. watering the plant. You can not pour water under the root and on the leaves, and immediately pour out all the water from the watering can. The plant may die.

Look, children, how will I be water the plant. Before starting work, I will put on an apron so as not to wet or stain my clothes. The flower is in a pot with a pallet on an oilcloth. I take a watering can with water, I put the spout of the watering can to the edge of the pot, pour water slowly, gradually until water appears on the pan.

In order not to forget that the plant needs to be watered put a picture(model labor actions) .

Children, what will become plant if we water it right? ( plant will be in good condition, the stem will be even, drooping wilted leaves will also rise, will be smooth, elastic.)

Let's put a picture so we don't forget (model - plant in good condition)

Anchoring

Before starting work, what will we do? (put on an apron)

How are we going to hold the watering can? (nose at the edge of the pot)

How much water will we pour? (until water appears on the pan)

What will become plant after watering? (plant will be in good condition)

Independent work

Bear, yours we helped the plant now it will get better.

Some the plants in our group need help too, water them so that they do not become like in the picture (showing the model - plant in poor condition)

Children, do you want to help?

Then you need to find plants who are thirsty. Like the picture (Model Shown) plants in poor condition)

The bear, together with the teacher, is watching child labor I ask clarifying questions. When difficulties I come to help children.

I remind the children that it is time to finish the work and that they need to bring workplace in order.

Didactic game "Where did the Bear hide?"

Didactic task: specify the name of acquaintances plants

game rule: Find Bear

game action: finding a playable character and naming plants behind which he hid

Children, soon our plants will become as beautiful, healthy as in the picture (showing the model - plant in good condition)

They will feel good. We did two good deeds today: helped plants and taught Mishka to water his plant.

The bear says thank you to all of you, now it plant will feel good. He is very happy about it. Now Mishka has learned water the plant, and will always take care of it so that it is in good condition and pleases with its beauty.

Children, are you glad you helped? plants? (emotionally share joy children)

Iris (Iris) - a huge genus that combines a wide variety of plants that have an "iris" type of flower. At the same time, the biology of these plants is so diverse that it is difficult to suspect close relatives in them.

Of course, every plant lover has seen - familiar flowers, often grown in gardens and decorating cities.
In this article, I would like to introduce flower growers to much less commonly grown groups of irises - Juno, Iridodiktyum, Regelio-cyclus. These species differ in their biology from rhizomatous irises.
These are spring flowering plants, many of which bloom exceptionally early.
And since they are mountain plants, well-drained soil is the main condition for their successful cultivation.

Juno (Juno)

Juno (Juno)- a group of spring-flowering irises with a very peculiar biology. Juno has a remarkable form of flowers, in which the upper lobes of the perianth are reduced and laid down.

The vast majority of junos grows in Central Asia, rising from the foothills to the glaciers of the Tien Shan.
Many of the junos were described by pioneer explorers of the flora of these places hundreds of years ago. However, up to the present time, discoveries in this reserve of Juno are possible (and happen).

The peculiar exotic beauty of junos immediately attracted the attention of plant lovers. Cultivation attempts have never stopped since their discovery. Yet most of the junos did not become common garden plants. However, several species are constantly grown by nurseries and can be classified as plants that grow well in temperate climates.

Juno hybridization was started by the famous florist Thomas Hog, who created three hybrids at the end of the 19th century. This is where the selection stopped, although there are opportunities for its continuation.

Growing junos is akin to collecting jewelry - experienced flower growers who are not indifferent to these plants are fond of this.
There is now a resurgence of interest in Juno due to impressive finds made during Central Asian expeditions (sponsored by the Gothenburg Botanical Gardens).

Juno bulbs have perennial roots - at their base are buds that give life to replacement bulbs.
In all operations with junos, one should try not to break off their roots.

In horticulture, the following types and forms of junos are found:

- Iris (Juno) aucheri - originally from Yu.V. Turkey. A beautiful species, successfully grown in Europe for a long time, but somewhat demanding on heat. Therefore, there are years when it may not bloom in the open field.

In the photo: Iris aucheri BLUE STAR; Iris aucheri PURPLE STAR; Iris bucharica

- Iris (Juno) bucharica hort. - its origin is unknown. It has been cultivated for a very long time. It differs from natural forms in the two-tone color of the flowers. One of the most unpretentious representatives of junos, it breeds well vegetatively and grows successfully even without annual digging.

- Iris (Juno) cycloglossa- this species was found relatively recently (in 1972) in Afghanistan. The most peculiar of all junos, it grows well in Lithuania. It has a branching leafless peduncle. Almost flat flower with very large limb lobes. It reproduces vegetatively, usually producing 2 daughter bulbs.

- Iris (Juno) graeberiana - the origin of the species is unknown. Two forms are cultivated, in which the structure and color of the flowers are somewhat different. More common form with a white spot on the limbs of the lower petals of the flower. A rarer form - with a yellow spot on the limbs. I did not observe seed setting in both varieties. Perhaps these are interspecific natural hybrids. They are one of the few tall junos that grow well in our open field. Blooms profusely and annually.

- Iris (Juno) NEW ARGUMENT – my hybrid. The name of the variety was not accidental. Its appearance confirmed the assumption that the famous Van Tubergen hybrid Iris WARLSIND is most likely the result of an accidental pollination of I. warleyensis with pollen from I. bucharica hort, and not from I. aucheri (as previously thought). The hybrid is sterile, grows well and multiplies.

In the photo: Iris hyb. NEW ARGUMENT; Iris magnifica ALBA

- Iris (Juno) magnifica ALBA - white-flowered form of the species J. magnifica - endemic to the Zeravshan Mountains. The tallest of all junos, in good conditions reaching almost a meter in height. The flowers are large, 7 - 9 pieces, bloom sequentially. The bulb has numerous, thick rhizomes that make digging up a chore (however, you don't have to dig them up every year). This variety is one of the few that does well in the garden and is relatively undemanding. As a rule, the mother bulb produces two daughters annually. It sets seeds well, but seedlings do not always repeat the color of their parents and may have flowers with a bluish tint.

- Iris (Juno) BLUE MYSTERY- obtained as a seedling of I. willmottena. However, the plants were unusually large for this species and sterile, which clearly indicated their hybrid origin. According to them appearance it can be assumed that the parent pair was: I. willmottiana and I. magnifica. Yet this is nothing more than an assumption, which is why the hybrid is called "BLUE MYSTERY". The most beautiful juno, perfectly growing and breeding in our climate.

- Iris (Juno) kuschakewiczii - this is the case when miniaturization does not detract from the merits. A real small section diamond comes from the North-Western spurs of the Tien Shan. The plant is the rarest in culture and difficult. Of course, it will "disappear" in plantings of tall species, but on and in it is irresistible.

- Iris (Juno) nicolai - the species is widespread in the Tien Shan mountains. The earliest of the Juno. It blooms after the snow melts with almost no leaves, they appear later. She makes a huge impression large flower bizarrely shaped, growing straight out of some snow-covered soil. Plants from different populations of the species differ in flower color. The species is not frost-resistant enough for our climate; plantings of juno must be insulated with peat.

- Iris (Juno) orchioides - has a wide range in the mountains of Central Asia. Plants from different regions differ in height and color of flowers. A rather tall form with bright yellow flowers was obtained by me from the Alma-Ata Botanical Garden. Grows well in open ground. thermophilic; blooms better if the previous summer was warm.

- Iris (Juno) SINDPERS- the famous Van Tubergen hybrid. The plant is short, but its flowers are huge, beautifully shaped and very fragrant. Heat-loving, does not like cool rainy summers, should be planted in a sunny place. If it is possible to grow a plant in a cold greenhouse, then you will fully enjoy its enchanting flowering.

- Iris (Juno) SHOCKING BLUE- selected from seedlings of I. willmotteana. Its flowers are similar to the BLUE MYSTERY variety, but their color is more saturated. Sterile.

- Iris (Juno) vicaria- the species is widely distributed in the mountains of Central Asia. The flowers are predominantly light, almost white in color. Rarely are populations with more or less purple petals. Unpretentious, grows well and multiplies.

- Iris (Juno) warleyensis- one of the most beautiful junos, growing in the western spurs of the Tien Shan (Zerafshan Range, Kugitang Range). Plants from different natural populations differ in stem height from 15 to 40 cm. It grows well in open ground. However, abundant flowering is difficult to achieve, especially if the previous summer was cold. Good results are obtained if the bulbs are not dug up, but after the completion of the growing season, cover the area from rain with glass or other transparent material. You can also, after digging, put the bulbs in dry sand and warm them in the greenhouse. The species was used by Van Tubergen to create the WARLSIND hybrid. Despite repeated introductions, it is still rare in culture.

- Iris (Juno) WARLSIND is Van Tubergen's tallest hybrid, as is now recognized by I. warleyensis and I. bucharica hort. It grows well in our climate, blooms annually, develops well and propagates vegetatively.

Iridodictiums IRIDODICTYUM

Iridodictium (Iridodictyum)- a group of graceful bulbous irises blooming in early spring. Interesting faceted hollow leaves of iridodictiums growing vertically. The leaves of the plant are exactly as many as bulbs are subsequently formed. According to the structure of the leaves, only a few species (Central Asian), which have grooved leaves, are an exception in the group.

In the photo: reticulated irises (Iris reticulata)

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Quite rare footage of a water sparrow - a dipper was made by Igor Mavrin, an employee of the Sokhondinsky Reserve, who works at the Bukukun cordon. And these photographs are unique in that this bird is a rare guest in our area.

Dipper , or common dipper (cinclus cinclus) - bird order of passeriformes. She is also called water thrush or water sparrow. Bird small size, plumagehas a dark brown, thick. It lives along the banks of fast transparent rivers and streams.

It feeds on aquatic insects and crustaceans, which the dipper collects in shallow water, between stones and under water. The main feature is the ability to swim and dive well even in cold water. Raising its wings, deftly maneuvering in the flow of water, the bird, as it were, “runs” along the bottom. Dipper can stay under water for up to 50 seconds, running up to 20 meters during this time. She is a very alert and sensitive bird.

"Recently I I met a rare bird for our places - a dipper. Its rarity is evidenced by the fact that for 28 years that I live in Zabaykalye, saw her for the second time- commented the author of unique pictures, Igor Mavrin, - and most importantly, I managed to take several photos of this feathered guest.

Ivan Sergeevich Sokolov - Mikitov, a Russian travel writer, wrote very interestingly about this amazing bird at one time: “You need to be a skilled observer of nature in order to see a wonderful dipper. If you have to visit deserted forests or mountainous places, look and listen carefully. On a clear and fast stream or river, perhaps you will be lucky enough to see a dipper!”

Drought is a long period with insufficient rainfall, which is most dangerous for plants at high temperatures and low humidity. Plants need to be helped to survive in this hard times otherwise, due to lack of moisture, their development stops.

The first sign of dehydration in a plant is lost turgor, sluggish leaves and buds. If the plant does not make up for the loss of water at this stage, then its leaves and buds will then begin to turn yellow, dry and fall off; soon the process will spread to the entire aerial part of the plant. Until the root gets at least not a large number of moisture from the ground, the plant in most cases can still be reanimated. Drying out of the root system means the death of the plant.

It may seem ridiculous that living in the UK, you can complain about the long absence of rainfall, because old Britain is known for its rainy climate. However, the South East of England, where we live, is probably the driest place in the country - droughts happen quite often here. In the winters of 2004-2006 there was a lack of rain that broke all records since 1933!

According to information BBC Weather, since November 2004 we have only received 72% of the average rainfall. By the beginning of July 2006, there had been a drought for about three weeks: virtually no rain at air temperatures above 30 degrees during the day and 15-17 at night. It will be possible to fully assess the damage from the drought only next year, if it affects the flowering of azaleas and rhododendrons, which just at this time lay the buds of next year.

A dry start to the 2006 season inspired the design of the 2006 Chelsea Competition Gardens with drought-related themes. An interesting element in African garden (GardenAfrica): the beds are arranged in a spiral under a slope. When watering, water flows from top to bottom along the boundary and collects in the center of the spiral, where the most moisture-loving plants are located.

A garden that is not afraid of drought

Of course, the negative impact of drought on plants as a whole is determined by several factors: the duration of the drought, the air temperature and wind strength during this period, the possibility of access to water and the availability of the necessary human resources. However, if you keep in mind the possibility of drought even during the strategic planning of the garden and plantings, then you can initially take measures that will help the plants survive in the drought, and save labor and time for the owners.

> Try to sow and plant new plants in the spring or fall when there is sufficient rainfall and the plants are easy to root and establish. On the other hand, it should be remembered that, in general, plants in containers are more vulnerable to drought than plants in open ground. Therefore, if a new plant from the garden center somehow needs to be transplanted into the garden, I would transplant it in the summer in the heat, making sure to provide regular abundant watering and protection from direct sunlight at first.

> When planting and transplanting plants, dig a deeper hole in the soil and be sure to add leaf humus or garden compost to it, which improve the structure and composition of the soil, allow moisture to freely penetrate to the roots and retain it there for a long time.

> Use special water-retaining granules or gel, which are abundantly saturated with water during watering, and then gradually release this water to the roots. These funds should be mixed with the ground when planting or transplanting plants. They are especially important for plants in containers.

> Be sure to use mulch on flower borders, around shrubs and trees, and on the surface of plant pots and baskets. Mulch should be laid out in the spring - after warm weather sets in, and the earth warms up and is saturated with moisture. As mulching materials, you can use chopped tree bark, sawdust, shavings, needles, gravel, the same garden compost or special synthetic garden material. The choice of mulch depends on the type of plant (for example, bark, sawdust and needles acidify the soil, so they are well laid out under hydrangeas, rhododendrons, camellias, heathers and other acidophiles). Plant mulching allows moisture to seep into the soil during rains or irrigation, but makes it harder for it to evaporate and also inhibits weed growth.

> Remove weeds in a timely manner, which will compete fiercely with “cultivated” plants during a drought. Weeds are easier to remove when they are just emerging from the ground.

> Plant neighboring plants closely, leaving only the space necessary for root development between them. Close-to-close leaves of plants reduce evaporation of moisture and drying out of the soil

> If, like me, you live in a region with frequent droughts, then consider this when placing plants in the sunny and shady areas of the garden. Give preference to drought-resistant plants. Often such plants have silvery foliage, needles or thick leaves. Ornamental drought-resistant plants include: chistets, wormwood, eryngium, lavender, santolina, cistus, poppy, spurge, yarrow, iris, echinacea, acanthus, bergenia, etc.
Do not need watering, for example, meadow flowers, succulents and ornamental grasses, aromatic plants, pumpkin, corn.

Watering plants in drought conditions

The ideal time for regular, scheduled watering is a calm late evening when the heat subsided, a cool night lies ahead, and moisture evaporation is minimal. Let's allow watering in the early morning, before the onset of heat. However, if the plant looks dehydrated on a hot day, it should be watered immediately, avoiding water on the leaves to avoid sunburn.
If you use an automatic watering system, be sure to reset the timer to suit changing weather conditions so that the plants get more of the moisture they need during the dry season.

In hot weather, plants in containers should be watered twice a day: in the early morning and late evening. Set the pots in deep trays or in planters that can hold at least a little water. If you are not able to provide regular watering for container plants, then it is better to rearrange them in the shade.
Plants in greenhouses and greenhouses can suffer from overheating during the heat, because the temperature indoors behind the glass rises much higher than on open space. Remember to open the doors and windows of the greenhouse through and through on hot days and use fans (if any).
Use sprinklers for daily watering of young grass crops or freshly laid turf. Place an open glass bowl in the sprayer's range and stop watering when it fills with water to a level of 13 mm (a smaller amount will not do any good, and more will be wasted).

How to save water and effort

Due to the lack of rainfall and the dangerously low level of drinking water reserves, during a drought we have an official ban on watering private gardens with tap water from hoses. Theoretically, at this stage we have no restrictions on the use tap water for irrigation (although they may occur later if the drought continues and water supplies disappear, then more stringent rules will come into force). However, in practice, the need to use a watering can instead of a hose in itself imposes these restrictions, because the time and effort required to water the garden increase many times over. Then you have to make a very tough choice: which plants need to be watered today, otherwise they can be almost completely dehydrated until tomorrow.

If you have similar or some other restrictions, and watering plentifully, qualitatively does not work, you may need a few simple methods that I use to save water, labor and time:

> Before watering your plants, determine your priorities and stick to them clearly. Watering is vital for seedlings, young plants that have just been planted outdoors, plants in containers (especially small ones), plants in greenhouses, fresh grass crops, freshly laid turf rolls, and moisture-loving plants (for example, coastal or marsh plants). These plants will die without water.

In second place may be plants that will not bloom with a lack of water, or fruit crops that will not be able to successfully bear fruit without watering (or any other plants, depending on your goals).

Watering is more necessary for plants on light, sandy soils, which dry out faster than heavy, clay soils.

> Abundant and rare watering is preferable to stingy and frequent. The fact is that a small amount of water penetrates only into the upper layer of the soil, contributing to the development of weak, highly located roots, which are the first to suffer from drying out of the soil or frost. Developing a strong and deep root system that can support the plant in harsh weather conditions requires water to penetrate deep into the soil around the plant. The correct depth of soil moisture during irrigation is about 60 cm.

> If you are planning to purchase and use an irrigation system in your garden, then invest in a modern drip or jet system (instead of a traditional sprinkler system). The water delivered by such systems appears at the right time (late in the evening or even when you are not at home) thanks to a timer on the tap, gets exactly as intended to the roots of plants and is absorbed to the last drop without being spent on watering neighboring weeds.

> Before watering, loosen the soil around the plant and make a small hole so that the plant is in the middle of the depression. All water after watering will remain in this hole and, as it is absorbed, it will get to the roots of the plant, and will not spread over dry soil. In autumn, with the arrival of rains, you can spud the plant, leveling the hole with the level of the ground to prevent stagnant water at the roots. The rest of the time, if possible, try not to disturb the soil during the drought period: any loosening contributes to additional evaporation of moisture from the soil.

> Remove the shower head from the watering can (or hose) and water the plant to the very root - then all the water will get to its intended purpose, and will not spread around the plant.

> To water the plants in containers, I use a large wide container filled with water, in which I alternately place pots and hanging baskets for a while. Thus, all the soil in the container gets wet through, and the plants receive a large amount of moisture. It is also an excellent way to urgently resuscitate already affected plants with a dry earthy clod, for which ordinary watering is completely useless. This method of moisturizing is not harmful even in the hottest hours, because water does not fall on the leaves of plants.

From time to time, water from the container can be poured under some kind of shrub, because it has accumulated a significant amount of nutrients from the soil of container plants.

> Look for opportunities to use so-called “secondary” water (leftover from laundry, cleaning, dishwashing or showering) to water ornamental plants, trees and shrubs. To do this, you may need to change your home's drain system. The recycled water, along with the remains of household detergents, contains a lot of phosphates, which your plants will enjoy as a good fertilizer.

Remember that water from the dishwasher and washing machine Allow plants to cool to room temperature before watering. It is advisable to use detergents that are not harmful to the environment and decompose under the action of microorganisms. Water with residues of bleach, bleach, disinfectants and other strong chemicals should not be used to water plants.

> Purchase and install special barrels in the garden to collect rainwater. Such barrels are directly connected to a pipe into which water enters from gutters located along the perimeter of the roof of a house or greenhouse. The barrels are mounted on an elevation so that you can substitute a watering can under the opening tap (or attach a hose to it). You can use the water accumulated in the barrels to water the plants as needed.

Lavender English (England)
COUNTRY LIVING (Countryside Living.net)

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Among other species in your collection, be sure to ask what variety it belongs to and find information about the features of home care - including how how to properly water new "green pet".

Below you will find practical advice to help you properly water most popular houseplants. We will look at issues such as the choice of dishes for watering flowers, what water to water the flowers, the frequency of watering, signs of lack of moisture, watering methods, how to water orchids and other indoor plants during your vacation.

♦ WARE FOR WATERING INDOOR FLOWERS:

watering can with a long spout. Practical equipment - a long spout can be easily directed through a dense crown, under the lower leaves or directly under the root rosette, so as not to drip water on the delicate leaves of the flower. Very convenient equipment for watering plants in a phytowall or in phytomodules (vertical gardening);

flask. A special device with an elongated tip and a spherical container for water. Such inventory can be of great help when you need to leave for a long time. It is enough to fill the container with water and stick the nose of the flask into the soil, which will gradually be saturated with moisture as it dries;

sprayer for spraying (sprayer). By spraying with water from a spray bottle, additional moisture can be provided through the upper parts of the plant. This method will help you keep decorative qualities plants in the summer heat or during heating season when the humidity level in the room is very low;

tray with water. great way additional soil moisture in a pot if the air in the room is too dry. It is advisable to place the flower pot not directly in the water, but on wet expanded clay or on pebbles in the pan.

♦ WATER FOR IRRIGATION OF INDOOR FLOWERS:

rain, river, pond water. Some flower growers prefer to water indoor plants with melt and rain water. Flowers respond well to watering with soft water from natural sources. But it is necessary to disinfect the water, add a few pieces of charcoal;

tap water. Most residents of megacities water their flowers with tap water. But it is important to remember that chlorinated tap water with sparingly soluble calcium salts is very hard. Be sure to defend this water for at least 24 hours (or better - several days) before watering the flowers, and pour the rest from the very bottom. Water the plants with room temperature or lukewarm water.

- in the photo: signs of lack and excess of water

♦ FREQUENCY OF WATERING INDOOR FLOWERS:

❂ Most houseplants like regular and even watering to keep the substrate moderately moist. If the period of abundant soil moisture is abruptly replaced by a period of insufficient moisture, then the flower begins to wither and may die b;

❂ in winter, many indoor plants slow down the growth and development processes (or stop altogether). The need for water with dissolved nutrients is significantly reduced and the plant needs to be watered much less often (or not at all). And in the spring-summer period, with an increase in the duration of sunlight and an increase in temperature, the frequency of watering increases to 1-3 times a week;

❂ plants with large and wide leaves are watered more often (Benjamin and rubber ficus, Andre anthurium, spathiphyllum, home begonia, gloxinia synningia, jasmine gardenia, gerbera, balsam, sheffler, dieffenbachia). Bulbous species should be watered moderately and less frequently, since waterlogging can lead to rotting of the root system (hippeastrum, clivia, amaryllis, calla zantedeschia, oxalis oxalis, hyacinths, eucharis Amazon lily). Most types of potted orchids (phalaenopsis, dendrobium nobile) are watered no more than once a week in winter and no more than twice a week in summer. There is indoor views that easily tolerate long breaks between waterings (succulent species - Crassula Money tree, aloe vera or agave, triangular spurge, zygocactus Decembrist, as well as species such as Kalanchoe Blossfeld, chlorophytum, "mother-in-law's tongue" or sansevieria);

❂ ceramic (clay) pots have a good porous structure, circulation and evaporation of moisture is more active. But plastic pots retain water well in the substrate. Therefore, it is necessary to water a flower placed in a ceramic pot more often than in a plastic one.

In the photo: rare, moderate and abundant watering

♦ WAYS OF WATERING INDOOR PLANTS:

❀ top watering. For watering a flower from above, it is advisable to use special dishes with a long spout (watering can, flask). It is advisable to direct the spout closer to the stem so that water does not fall on the leaves. If the plant has a developed leaf rosette, try to direct the stream of water under it so that the water does not stagnate. Water the plant evenly, in small portions, so that the water does not stagnate on the top layer of soil. Pour out all the water flowing into the pan. it universal way watering indoor species. The disadvantage of this method is that they are quickly washed out. useful material substrate sludge. Therefore, do not forget to feed the plants on time.

❀ bottom watering. Some types of ornamental deciduous plants lose their attractiveness if drops of water fall on the leaves (yellowish or black spots appear, the leaf blade is deformed). Therefore, the pan is filled with water for irrigation. Within 30-40 minutes, the substrate is moistened to the top layer and all excess water must be drained from the pan. The disadvantage of this method is that mineral salts are not washed out on the contrary - they linger in the soil for a long time. If a lime crust has appeared on the surface of the soil, then carefully remove it along with the top layer, adding a fresh substrate.

❀ immersion of the pot in water. Highly good method moistening, allowing the soil to be completely saturated with water. Lower the flower pot into a container of water so that water does not flow into the substrate through the edges of the pot. Water will quickly soak all layers of the substrate through the drainage holes. Then place the pot on a wire rack so that any excess water flows down freely. It is not advisable to use this method of moistening during the flowering period of the plant, when moving the pot can cause the buds and petals to fall off.

- tables with factors affecting the abundance and frequency of irrigation

♦ WATERING HOUSE PLANTS DURING HOLIDAYS:

√ vacation up to two weeks.

We moisten the soil abundantly by immersing each pot in water;

☛ Plants with small, fleshy leaves that are dormant, that are in a cool room with high humidity, that are grown in plastic or glassware;

☛ if the tap water contains too much lime, it is advisable to pass it through a special filter in order to use soft water for irrigation;

☛ never use cold water for irrigation, as this can lead to the gradual death of peripheral roots, the appearance of viral and fungal diseases;

☛ The most ideal time for watering most indoor species is early morning (with sunrise);

☛ on hot summer days and during heating, it is necessary to spray the plants with a spray bottle. Next to the plants, you can put a container with water for additional humidification.

♦ HOW TO WATER AN ORCHID AT HOME:

❶ You can water orchids only with warm, settled soft water. It is advisable to water rare collectible and whimsical indoor orchid species with diluted distilled water. Mix settled water of medium hardness with distilled water in a ratio of 1:1. And mix too hard water with distilled water in a ratio of 1: 2;

❷ if the orchid is without bulbs, then water it after the substrate is completely dry, and the lower leaves begin to lose turgor and wrinkle. If the orchid is with bulbs, then water the flower after the bulbs begin to wrinkle a little;

❸ During flowering, most popular domestic varieties (phalaenopsis, dendrobium nobile) are watered very moderately 2-3 times a week. Make sure that water never stagnates in the pot around the roots and flows freely from the drainage holes;

❹ The best way watering orchids in the summer - soaking the pot in warm settled water for 10-15 minutes. Be sure to make sure that the water drains completely from the holes in the bottom of the pot after soaking;

❺ how often to water an orchid at home. Complete drying of the soil is much safer for the root system than overflow. Most species can be watered at a frequency, which is defined as follows: once the substrate is completely dry, the next day in the morning you can water the flower moderately. But do not forget that the frequency of watering also depends on the following factors: the type of orchid, the growing season or dormant period, the humidity and temperature in the room, the composition of the soil, the pot (the volume of what material it consists of).

♦ VIDEO:

How to properly moisten the soil in a pot (for example, indoor begonia):
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