Do-it-yourself syringe float. DIY float, homemade float

But with the latter, not everything is so clear. For an angler-athlete, the correct position is a barely noticeable, up to 5 mm, tip of the antenna above the water. Among amateurs, some surround the float before the start of the antenna, while others leave a third of the body of the float. The "industrialists" have their own fishing technology. Sometimes it happens that you hang a pellet with a weight corresponding to what is written, and the float completely goes under the water. Usually the float is loaded at home in a jar of water, but when you throw the equipment into the pond, it turns out that the loading was wrong, and you have to bring it to mind on the shore.

This problem can be avoided if the floats are made not with a constant, but with a variable load capacity.

To do this, you will need plastic syringes with a volume of 2 to 10 ml, depending on which fishing rods you will put them on (photo 1). For bleak fishing, small ones are suitable, and for pike, of course, larger ones are needed.

We take out the rod from the cylinder, cut off round stop pressure, and carefully cut off the tetrahedral reinforcement on the piston. We attach a small wire loop to the lower part with electrical tape to pass the fishing line. We also cut off the rim of the cylinder.

Instead of a syringe needle, we insert an antenna. Suitable material for her - straws for a cocktail, used cores of gel and ordinary pens, etc. plastic tubes of suitable diameters. You can put the tube on by cutting the needle on its base or just on the needle without cutting. So that the tube does not slip from the base of the needle and does not let water through, I fix it with a piece of heat-shrinkable tube: I heat the candles over the flame, holding them with both hands, and constantly scroll over the fire for even shrinkage.

Two important nuances
FIRST. The antenna must be airtight and well attached to the base of the needle. To do this, we seal the opposite end liquid nails pressing the tip into the glue. An easier way is to melt it on fire.
SECOND. Seated tightly on the syringe, the antenna should be removed.

Otherwise, you will not be able to push in or push out the stem: the air inside will not allow this. And you will get again a float with a constant load capacity. But the goal was to make a float with a variable load capacity.

Subject to the conversion technology, a 3 ml syringe turns into a float with a variable load capacity from 1 to 3.5 g.

The final touch is the coloring of the antenna in desired color. As a result, you get excellent equipment almost for free (photo 2).

Seasonal menu
October is a paradise for spinners. Accordingly, in this perspective, we will consider the prospects for fishing in the middle of autumn.

Pike. It leaves the coastal zone and hunts at depth, in holes. She covets a "big piece", so try to present her with large spinners or bulky wobblers.

Perch. Very active. Attacks even large pike baits that cannot be swallowed. Preferences - wobblers from 5 to 7 cm, the same oscillators and turntables with a petal No. 2-4.

Zander. Perfectly caught with both spinning and bottom gear. It walks in a flock, and if you are fishing on spinning, use light-colored twisters: from white to light green.

In the summer, they gave me a piece of hard foam plastic from an old life jacket. Well, since in the summer I lose up to a dozen floats, I decided to try to make them myself. I don't go fishing in winter, I have a lot of time.

We cut it into pieces. We choose the size at our discretion, but since small ones suit me, I cut this piece into 4 parts.

I bought bamboo skewers for kebabs at the market, they cost a penny, and I picked up a drill of such a diameter that the skewer fits snugly into the hole that we drill in the workpiece.

Now we give the approximate shape of the float with a clerical knife.

We insert the skewers into the blanks.

We drip a drop of Chinese super-glue between the skewer and the foam. This is done so that when we grind the foam, it does not scroll.

The glue dries instantly, and after 5-10 minutes you can already grind. Here I had to call my wife for help to hold the drill and regulate the speed. There is a simple way out of this situation: hold the drill in a vise, and adjust the speed with the speed control pedal from sewing machine. But for this you need a drill without electronic speed control, otherwise it doesn’t work, the drill immediately takes more than half of the revolutions. You can also adapt the dimmer for a chandelier.
Next, we attach our float to the drill so as not to wrinkle the skewer. Slightly squeeze your hand and that's it - it will hold on.
Yes, I forgot to write that we choose skewers as evenly as possible! But they will still hit, so you need to lightly hold the antenna with your left hand.
Since we did the initial processing with a knife, the float will sausage. To avoid this, you need to take something hard and put sandpaper on it. I came across a flat file, so I took it. The lower end of the file must be rested on a table or, like mine, in cutting board. Spin the drill to medium speed and smoothly bring the file with sandpaper to the float. We start with a large sandpaper, remove all the beats and gradually give the shape of the future float.

When the beats are removed, you can remove the file, and then work due to the rigidity of the sandpaper, moving to a finer one.

That's what happens when you're in a hurry. I pressed the file a little harder - and the keel broke!

Before completing the processing, we change the direction of rotation of the drill and lightly sand it with very fine sandpaper. This is done so that the fibers of the foam, which are licked during the rotation of the drill, are worn off and the pores open.
Now we dilute the PVA glue to the state of milk and coat the foam with a brush. We dry. Now our float has become like a hedgehog! It's all the villi that have risen and hardened from the glue. We again clamp the float into the drill and sandpaper, preferably with a new zero, we remove these villi.
Then we pour a little baby powder into a plate and pour it into a jar of regular emulsion. Dilute it with water until creamy. The emulsion should be the simplest, which is not desirable to wash and wipe.

Now rub the powder into the foam.

We dip into the emulsion.

Sprinkle with a little more powder.

We begin to rub this gruel. Well, the main thing here is not to overdo it with powder, otherwise everything will quickly thicken and smear badly. Here you need to watch how the gruel falls on the foam. It is desirable to achieve a smaller number of open pores from the first time.

Align the slurry evenly over the float, wait until the slurry starts to keep the pores closed (this is about 30-40 seconds), and again dip the float into the emulsion. I’ll say right away, for the future: there should not be air bubbles (foam) in the jar, as they will stick to the float. The float must be raised slowly! So that, due to surface tension, the excess emulsion, and then further and the varnish, flow into the jar immediately, and do not form streaks during drying.

Then dry again. The villi from the foam may reappear, we remove them as we did last time. Again we lower and pull out the float into the emulsion and see how many unsealed pores remain. If they are, and they will be 100%, then rub the powder and repeat everything. And so three times, until you achieve that when the float was lifted from the emulsion, there was not a single open pore on it.
All this is dried every time until completely dry. After drying, the surface should be smooth, without pores and irregularities. And now we take a waterproof and super-white emulsion. We dilute with water in the same way as cream, and already without any powder, we simply dip and slowly pull out our float. We dry. Dip again and dry again. After drying with a brush, paint the antenna with this super-white paint.

Well, it remains to paint our floats. Yes, I forgot to write that I dry the floats with clothespins. I hang it by the keel, then by the antenna. There are many different dyes now, acrylic ones are needed, which are diluted with water.

You can talk about the color of the floats for a long time and a lot. There are no questions with floats that are not afraid of nitro paints, and this is mainly made of wood. Everything is simple there - I carefully sanded it with fine sandpaper, dipped it immediately into nitrolac (it will reshape and fill all the bumps and pores), and then paint with any dyes. It is best to use automotive enamels, nitro paints, and are also sold in stores for those who like to collect various models very bright nitro paints in small bottles. But all this requires costs, and you won’t buy several multi-colored cans of expensive car enamels in order to use a few grams from each can. The main thing here is to carve the body of the float from wood, which is quite problematic with a drill.
Well, this is all reasoning, and we will proceed from what we have available. Now our float (styrofoam) is also protected and can be painted with nitro paints. But I will tell you how I did it and about my mistakes, which appeared after a while.
We take a jar and pour super-white waterproof enamel into it (it was higher in the photo) and add dye to the shade we need. Don't forget to dilute everything with water. With this composition we will paint the bottom of the float.
This is where color plays a role. If you fish at a depth, then you can not bother and paint in any beautiful one. But if in shallow water, then it is advisable to choose the color of some driftwood, a leaf that has fallen into the water, etc. You yourself know that large fish are very cautious and avoid coming close to bright objects.
Immerse the float in our paint and slowly raise it. The paint should flow evenly and easily. I lift it for about 10-15 seconds so that the excess glass immediately and there are no smudges later.

Of course we dry. One dip is enough.
Next, we make the next color in another jar. It needs quite a bit, and you can apply it directly with a brush, but 2 times. The brush should be very soft, because then we will apply varnish with it. I bought several of these, they are about 17 rubles each. Do not forget to rinse the brush immediately. Yes, I just added a little PVA glue to the yellow dye, because if you add the dye to the enamel, the color becomes pale.

From the keel of the float with a knife, we clean off all our previously applied layers of putty and paint to the very skewer. I thought for a long time what to paint next. I tried to dilute all sorts of colors and, with a slow rotation of the drill, draw rings with the thinnest brush, but since the skewers are still crooked and hit a little, the brush turned out to have different line widths and I decided to continue coloring with markers. The drill works at low speeds, we bring the marker, the ring is ready. First we draw light, and then dark tones. We are waiting for the marker to dry.

Well, now comes the crucial moment. We will cover our float with a colorless nitro varnish on wood. The fact is that the varnish dissolves the marker! Therefore, we do this: at almost the slowest speed, we turn on the drill, dip the brush into the varnish and literally just touch our coloring. In one movement, for one second, we cover the blue rings and the black ones nearby with a thin layer of varnish. Right in the jar of varnish, we wash the brush from the remnants of the marker, which stained the bristles. Again we dip into the varnish and with the same quick movement we cover the bottom of the float, and then the black rings on the antenna. We dry very well. And we do this 2 times. For the third time, you can already cover the body of the float with a brush, but it is necessary that there is not too little varnish on the brush. He spent a little, dipped it, then again ... For the third time, you can go through the entire antenna, almost to the very tip. If only you could then take the float and not get your hands dirty. Then paint the very tip with a brush last.

We ate a little :)

Well, now you can apply two final coats of varnish by dipping. Only, of course, after each layer I dried for 12 hours, and after the second layer - a couple of days. We lower the float into a jar of varnish so that the varnish covers the first black ring, and gently raise it - 10-15 seconds. In the same vertical position, hang to dry.

The antenna is then varnished with a brush. That's actually all!
This applies to those who attach the float to the nipple from the bike. But, since I use sliding floats, we continue on.
We buy a 2 kW nichrome spiral in the store and unwind it onto a reel from an old fishing line. Carefully cut off the tip of the keel and clean off the varnish to the very skewer.

Next, we are looking for something like a mandrel for winding a spiral from purchased nichrome. It should be literally a little thinner than the keel of the float. We clamp the mandrel into the drill, fix the beginning of the wire and wind the spiral onto the mandrel. Then we bend a couple of turns of our spiral with a knife, insert the tip of the round-nose pliers into the resulting ring and bend the ring so that the beginning of the wire is almost hidden under the main spiral. The photo is clearly visible. This is so that the fishing line or carabiner does not cling to the beginning of the coil. You can, of course, pick up a ready-made spring from oil seals for cars, they are stronger, but you need to spin around near a car service and rummage through the trash.

It remains to paint and varnish. That's the whole technology. It turned out a little dreary, but I think that everything is clear.

Now for the things not to do...
It turns out the varnish discolors the marker! After two months after the manufacture of the floats, Blue colour became completely pale, and the black one turned pale! But the yellow, which was bred on PVA glue, remained bright, and the body of the float itself did not turn pale! The conclusion suggests itself: it was necessary to dilute the paint on PVA glue or waterproof enamel! But then it would have to be applied with a brush.
I remind you once again that the floats have not yet been tested in the field, and how they will show themselves, we will find out only in the spring. If someone could help, or it was just interesting, then I will be glad.

Here is the result:

A toilet is a place that a person simply cannot do without, but in order to use the toilet comfortably and comfortably, it is important to properly care for it, clean and disinfect it. Tired of buying weekly cleaning products that last just a few days? A dispenser would be an appropriate solution here.

Instructions on how to make a do-it-yourself dispenser

In order to make a dispenser with your own hands, you will need:
- plastic bottle,
- cleaning tablets

Prepare a regular plastic bottle volume of 1.5 liters. Cut off the upper part of the bottle with a knife or scissors, marking about 15 cm from the cork. in the air.

Screw the cap of the bottle loosely so that water can seep out of the cut and out. Drain the water from the barrel for the time of work and turn off the tap so that it does not enter inside. Hang the prepared cut inside the tank.

Take a piece of loose foam rubber and cut it so that it can be neatly, evenly placed in the edge of the bottle. In this case, the upper edge of the foam rubber should be at the water level at the moment when the barrels are full or slightly above it.

Glue a small weight (any heavy metal object) to the foam rubber or screw several large self-tapping screws into the bottom. This is necessary so that the sponge does not float, but is inside the cut, in the water column.

Purchase toilet cleaning tablets. Place one of them on the foam. Close the tank, unscrew the water supply tap and do the first flush, at which you will see just clean water. But already with the second and subsequent flushes, foam and freshness will be visible, as if you simply placed a tablet in a barrel as usual.

However, the tablet will not dissolve as quickly as it happens when it is placed at the bottom of the barrel in water, it can extend its effect up to two weeks, and the solution that is released when the tablet is soaked will completely saturate the foam rubber and thereby create an additional supply of saturated solution inside cut off the bottle and, accordingly, inside the flush barrel.

In such a homemade dispenser, you can put several tablets at once, without worrying that they will fleetingly disappear and you will have to buy new ones.

Homemade floats made by the angler for his own needs, which are the result of the experience gained by the practice of fishing, are distinguished not only by their originality and originality, but also bring indescribable pleasure to its owner direct process manufacturing. After all, the soul invested in this production subsequently brings a lot of unforgettable and vivid impressions from the fishing session, in which home-made fishing floats play a primary role, bringing the mystery of the bite process into a visual show.

Making floats with your own hands, knowing the essence of the accessory and imagining the conditions that will be on the reservoir in reality, is not so difficult and costly. Fortunately, today in our daily life there are many materials suitable for the manufacture of a quality product, and for this work you do not need a specific tool. Suitable arsenal technical means found in every household.

About the manufacturing processes of bite signaling devices under various conditions fishing from all sorts of improvised means and there will be information presented to the angler's court that will help solve the problem of obtaining an effective fishing accessory and will please the fisherman with its rational solution.

Looking around, the inquisitive mind of the angler will immediately determine the mass of materials suitable for performing work on the manufacture of a float at home. It will also not be a secret for those who are just starting their steps in fishing skills that the properties of suitable options for production should have high floating qualities, low substance density and relatively low, better its complete absence, water absorption.

Important! The main float materials include foam blanks, a feather from a wing of any waterfowl, reed and wood, including one of its varieties, the most suitable for the role of a balsa signaling device.

From products used in domestic needs, all kinds of plastic tubes can be adapted for floats, for example, an empty ballpoint pen refill or a candy holder, a medical disposable syringe, a wine stopper and even a container from used polyethylene shoe covers.

To give the blanks a nice look, you need to stock up acrylic paints in bright colors, sometimes instead of paint, the entrance can also go with nail polish. Have available steel wire, preferably from alloyed stainless steels with a diameter of not more than 1.5 mm, and quick-setting waterproof glue. Toothpicks or thin bamboo sticks, which can be obtained from a junk kitchen table napkin or rug, will be useful.

Most of the above options for blanks do not even require a special purchase from the angler, because they are either a by-product of the consumption of the main product or tare packaging and a banal bottle cap. Therefore, making floats at home will not require large material costs, but will only need free time, imagination and the desire of the angler to do this exciting and interesting business.

How to make a float

Having decided on the material component of the work, the angler must also prepare some simple tool. To complete the work you will need:

• electric drill or screwdriver;
• a set of small diameter drills ranging from 1 to 3 mm;
• sharpened clerical and penknives;
• pliers;
• needle file set;
• fine sandpaper;
• hacksaw for metal;
• vise;
• awl;
• measuring tool, preferably a caliper;
• small chisels;
• scriber, which can replace a pencil.

It would be useful, before going to make a homemade float, to have a layout, sample or sketch in the form of a sketch of the final product. After all, knowing a clearly set ultimate goal, it is easier to achieve the desired parameters and performance characteristics of the simulated signaling device and get exactly the product that can close the required fishing conditions. Further on the campaign of our article, we will talk in more detail about the most popular areas of floats that you can make yourself at home.

How to make a feather float

The feather version of the fishing signaling device is one of the oldest ways to provide the rod with a float. Under the products you need to get feathers from the wings of a large waterfowl. Most often, domestic geese and ducks become reliable suppliers of these blanks, but wild ones will not be an exception.

It is possible to make a float from a goose feather, taking into account the painting operation, in about one hour. A large fly goose feather is cleaned of a fan, side fluff, leaving only the rod and the core for work, which will be the body of the future signaling device.

Important! The fan is by no means cut off by hand, but cut off with a razor or a sharp knife against its growth direction. Otherwise, the bully of the hollow core will fill with water, and the product will completely lose its buoyancy.

After cutting the fluff, its smallest villi are removed with fire, running along the length of the feather with a lighted match or lighter. Next, the workpiece is painted from the thick end with bright paint, which will clearly stand out on the water, the scarlet and light green colors most satisfy this requirement. As a rule, the product itself, the length of which usually remains in sizes from 12 to 15 cm, is painted exactly in half, leaving the lower part in a natural white color scheme.

Now, the almost finished product, it remains to provide two nipple rubber rings for fastening to the fishing line, weigh it to determine the exact weight, in order to mark it by setting a number on the body of the accessory, which will help you navigate easier, making further loading in installation.

Plastic tube float

A homemade plastic tube float can be constructed in just twenty minutes. The easiest way is to take a straw for drinking a cocktail with a diameter of about 5 mm. To make a not tricky, but effective stick-type float, you need a piece of tube 15 cm long. The main design operation is to solder the ends of the tube, which is done in several stages by heating, melting and then compressing the fused plastic with pliers.

The tube is soldered from two ends, one of which is cut off, making the end smooth, like a cylinder, this part will be the top of the accessory. The other end of the tube is made flat and a hole is pierced in it in the center, for threading onto the fishing line from the equipment, this will be the lower part of the signaling device. If necessary, the tube is painted in an eye-catching color and completed, as in the case of a goose feather, with a mounting rubber ring.

How to make a foam float

This type of manufacturing is more labor-intensive and requires the skill of handling and observing safety precautions when working with an electric drill. Before starting to make a foam float, a rectangular blank is cut out of a piece of material with a knife, which is strung along the central axis on a wooden toothpick and mounted in a cartridge electric drill. Further, the drill is used as a lathe, clamping its body in a vise and turning on the rotation of the cartridge in automatic mode. With the help of a sanding paper tape attached to a rotating piece of foam plastic, the shape of the signaling device body is formed with the desired diameter and configuration. Grinding of the material of the foam blank comes from an increase in the pressing force of the abrasive material or a change in the number of the stone fraction on the sandpaper.

Important! For finishing polishing, paper as small as possible in size is used, bringing the foam plastic planes to a smooth surface without pores.

Having turned the required shape, the workpiece is removed from the mounting wooden axis and, using waterproof glue, the antenna and keel are glued from pre-selected material options, which can be both wood and plastic tubes of various diameters. In particular, using a plastic tube as an antenna, you can make a luminous float by inserting a chemical firefly into the tube hole from above, which helps to control the equipment in the dark.

It remains only to reduce the diameters of the tube and the firefly to a suitable backlash-free pairing. The very same foam body of the signaling device is painted in different colors, exactly along the border of the maximum diameter, the upper part is covered with bright paint, and the lower part is painted in tones that do not arouse suspicion of fish. you can use both nipple rings according to the diameters of the antenna and the keel of the signaling device, or by arranging a special wire fastening loop in the body of the accessory.

To do this, a thin, 0.5 mm in diameter, wire is twisted, leaving a ring at one end, and at the other end of the wire, the tips twisted into a braid between themselves over a length of at least 5 mm. The twist is glued into the foam plastic in the upper part of the signaling device, soaking everything with the same moisture-resistant glue.

Homemade float for fishing from a wine cork

A cork float is made using a technique similar to the processing of foam blanks, using an electric drill or a screwdriver as the main tool for turning the configuration required for the float. The difference is only in the composition of the material itself, where cork is a more capricious substance in its structure.

Important! It is more difficult to form holes in cork due to its increased fragility, as well as to bring the surface to a perfectly smooth state, since the material has a high porosity compared to foam plastic.

Finishing is carried out manually, carefully monitoring the grinding of each deep pore and subsequently, before final painting, covering the body of the accessory with special varnishes that hide microcracks and pores, preventing further penetration of water into the body of the signaling device.

When preparing holes for the keel and antenna, it is recommended to pierce them step by step with a thin awl, jointly reaming to the desired diameter. Especially, this applies to the option of working when forming a float from a champagne cork, which is distinguished by a high fragility of the material structure. The cork float, as well as the polystyrene version of the signaling device, is easy to make under all the luminous floats for night fishing possible in terms of their loads by inserting a fluorescent element into the antenna.

Do-it-yourself wooden float

A float made of feather and wood is one of the most environmentally friendly and natural options for signaling devices. But working with wood to form the body of any float will require a significant investment of time and certain carpentry skills and abilities from the angler.

Important! Hardwoods and, in particular, oak and larch are selected for wooden floats.

The first stage of production includes cutting a wooden blank in the form of a parallelepiped of a certain size with a hacksaw. Next, the parallelepiped is drilled through the central axis and mounted on a metal rod, the ends of which are fixed in two oppositely located and rigidly fixed drills. One drill is placed in the neutral position of the rotation of the cartridge without turning on the electricity, and the second should become a drive for rotating the workpiece.

After running this impromptu lathe from a piece of wood with the help of a file or sandpaper form the bodies of floats of any configuration. The last operation will be the final polishing of the surface with the smallest number of sandpaper. After polishing the sample, to avoid water absorption, cover it with a waterproof varnish and allow it to dry completely at room temperature. The formed body is provided with an antenna made of plastic or thin wire, glued into the hole from which the metal pin originally inserted for work in the machine is removed.

A wire keel is glued into the lower part of the float body, or a wire ring is mounted to make a sliding float. Now you can move on to coloring the signaling device and marking the accessory after the control weighing.

Homemade reed float

This technique is suitable for making an outstanding float right in the field of fishing. After all, it is rare that a body of water is not the place where reed grows.

Important! For work, they choose an even and dense reed stem without scuffs and cracks and cut it so that the length of the future float is about 15 cm.

The lower part of the workpiece is ground under a cone, which reduces the resistance when biting, and a seven-centimeter metal antenna can be inserted into the upper part. The homemade product is painted from the top in a color that is noticeable to the fisherman and is understaffed with two nipple rubber bands for attaching to the fishing line.

Match float

The match float must have a certain mass and have high aerodynamic properties. For its production, the main body is selected, made from foam plastic or a wooden blank, and completed with a massive antenna and a load with a ring. The easiest way to assemble the antenna is from four watt sticks freed from cotton wool and tightened with polyurethane cambric, which, when heated with a hair dryer, tightly compresses the plastic of the sticks into a rigid structure.

The top of the antenna is provided with a foam or cork boss, connecting them to each other with waterproof glue. The antenna itself is glued into the hole in the housing. A load with a fastening ring is mounted from the lower part of the body. The easiest way to make a load is from a tin cone with a pin for fastening in its blunt part and a soldered fastening ring in the sharp end of the figure. After assembling the structure together, the accessory is covered with bright paint or nail polish.

Homemade water-filled float from a container for shoe covers

A rather sensitive float with the possibility of changing its mass can be made from a container for shoe covers, having previously selected a twisting box of the desired color in order to subsequently exclude the operation of coloring the product. At the bottom of the container, a winding ring is mounted to fasten the structure to the fishing line. This can be done with both an awl and a small-diameter drill. A hole is drilled in the upper part of the container for the diameter of the antenna.

Important! After mounting the mounting ring and antenna, the holes are hermetically sealed with glue or silicone, preventing spontaneous collection of water inside the container.

It remains to paint the antenna in bright color and already directly on the reservoir, by collecting water or installing a lead weight, to achieve the signaling device required under the conditions of fishing.

Homemade float for long casting

A heavy and long-range float for fishing on the current is designed on the basis of an elongated cone-shaped body, which is made of dense extruded polystyrene foam. A long, up to 20 cm, bamboo reed antenna is glued into the upper part of the blank, equipping the top with a bright foam boss in the form of a ball, strung on glue, at the tip of the element axis. The lower part of the cone is cut off to allow drilling a hole into the depth of the material for subsequent mounting of the load. The load is prepared from a lead stick. Soldering a winding ring to its lower part for attaching an accessory to a tackle cord. Depending on the thickness and length of the load, the desired mass is selected, which will form the main performance characteristics of the finished accessory. The load is mounted in the foam body with moisture-resistant glue. After drying of the glued elements of the product, it is subjected to coloring and tested, testing for range and strength in real conditions of the reservoir.

How to make an underwater float

This type of signaling device, which is radically different in principle of operation, is easiest to make from extruded foam plastic, turning the workpiece into a ball or oval shape. An important criterion for production is the polishing of the surface of the product, which is carried out manually, using the finest type of abrasive paper.

The polished form is drilled through with a millimeter drill along the entire body, moving from the central axis to one of the edges of the workpiece.

Important! A rubber or polyurethane nipple is glued into the exits of the hole on the surface of the foam mold, which will prevent cutting through the soft foam with a hard nylon fishing line.

Underwater floats made according to this method are painted scarlet with acrylic paint.

How to make a sports float

A float for current and still water in a sporty design will require a more careful approach to production. To do this, the angler will have to acquire expensive material for blanks and the highest quality paints for coloring the finished product. Every little thing in sports fishing affects the final result, so the elements to be glued are additionally checked for strength and the visible glue flows are polished with a needle file and sandpaper. Polishing of surfaces is brought to an ideal state and when painting, smudges and uneven application of coloring layers are not allowed. According to their own designs and the principle of production, sports versions of float signaling devices do not differ from amateur homemade products.

Making a tube for floats

Do-it-yourself tube for floats can be made from polyethylene pipes and, in particular, a sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 or 100 mm. Before manufacturing the container, it is determined with the dimensions of the floats for the storage of which it will be intended. According to the number of accessory units and the largest length of one of them, with a margin of one and a half, two centimeters, a piece of tube is cut. One of its parts must have a factory socket, which is muffled by a shaped part in the form of a plug, planted for immobility on glue. The lid of the tube is made from a sleeve with a plug glued into it. For ease of opening the tube, the sealing gum is removed from the coupling. For massive float collections, a 100 mm pipe is used; for more miniature floats, a diameter of 50 mm is suitable.

Important! Sewage pipe has a low weight and is not subjected to compression, which guarantees the complete safety of the float collection and convenience when moving it.

For single options for storing floats or protecting delicate models from breakage, you can use drill cases in which they are sold in hardware stores. Cases are made of lightweight and often transparent plastic, which allows you to determine the type of item you need without opening the container. this moment accessory. Tight fitting of the two parts of the case guarantees both watertightness and spontaneous opening of the tube.