What to make facade tiles with your own hands. Making facade tiles with your own hands: step by step instructions

For facing the outside of buildings, various facing materials are used, for example,. The production of clinker tiles has a low cost and production time. It is possible to choose a variety of materials as the basis. Most often, mineral mixtures are used. The cement is mixed quartz sand and clay. A simple manufacturing process makes it possible to produce tiles on your own, but this will require special equipment.

AT modern world can buy different types clinker, with great differences in color, with the most daring design solutions. And also to simplify the coating, you can purchase special forms for tiles. Despite the availability of clinker, the total cost of covering a home's floor space can be significant. The forms are designed to simplify the process of making plates with your own hands, which will significantly reduce the cost of the process. But more on that later.

Features of the clinker

The front tile has essential differences from similar facing materials.

If you compare it with a tile, then it is the undisputed leader. It is used exclusively for finishing buildings, so it has a wide range of qualities:

• It is resistant to various types of damage, including scratches and strong impacts.
• Due to its use in outdoor conditions, the tile is wear-resistant, not affected by mold and other harmful effects.
• The production of facade tiles is done in such a way that the number of pores through which there is a possibility of moisture penetration is minimized.
• A prerequisite for any type of tile is resistance to frost.
• The tile is not affected in any way by exposure to ultraviolet radiation. In any conditions, the original color is preserved.

Of all the above, the most important condition is to ensure the durability of the coating. At facing tiles should be provided long term, during which, it will not change its properties and appearance.

industrial production

For wide production, the two most popular technologies are used: semi-dry pressing and extrusion production.

Extrusion Process

For making tiles at home, these methods are also suitable, but you need to make a number of changes to the technology.

The main differences between the methods lie in the principle of molding. The first method involves pressing the material, after which the product, which has taken shape, is placed in an oven and fired, excluding drying from the process.

The product is obtained with a low density, low weight, but, as a result, insufficient strength. The advantage of this technology is that the finished material for cladding practically does not conduct heat, which in some areas is valued much more than resistance to damage.

The second method is carried out using an extruder.

If to speak plain language, then this is a large meat grinder through which clay is passed. The material is crushed and formed in a vacuum press. The workpiece is dried and after that it is sent to the kiln for firing.

This way of producing facade tiles is used much more often, because the resulting product has great strength, is immune to abrasion, and it is extremely difficult to damage it in any way.

Production at home

Before you start making facade tiles, you need to make sure that you have a basis for manufacturing:

• concrete;
• putty;
• alabaster;
• plaster and clay.

The production of facade tiles involves the use of vibration casting technology.

In addition, the properties of tiles depend on the quality and temperature of firing. All this will require equipment that cannot be saved on. You need to understand that making with your own hands is much more difficult, and therefore the process requires more attention.

The next step will be the choice of filler, you can use whatever your heart desires, for example, sand, shells, sparkles or glass chips.

It is important to understand that the tile will not face the load different kind, so the most important point will be getting rid of the air inside the structure. After all, it is he who will cause the destruction of the tiles in the cold months.

It is quite easy to make tiles on your own, but you need to understand that you will need some equipment for this:

• vibrating table;
• concrete mixer;
• mixer, it is advisable to use a perforator;
• plastic molds;
• water tank of 100 or more liters;
• heating cabinet.

You can do without a concrete mixer if the owner has a lot of free time. To prepare a large volume of solution, you can use portions of 10 liters and mix them with a perforator with a mixer.

The production of clinker tiles will take place using a vibrating table. And also there is an option to carry out vibrations on their own or to make a device similar in design.

The subtleties of production

In order to obtain a material that meets all requirements, it is required to purchase only high-quality raw materials. Making tiles at home is a very risky process, especially for first-timers.

However, one should not be afraid of difficulties, because if you strictly follow the instructions from experienced craftsmen, then the result will leave you satisfied. The technological process has the following subtleties:

• In the material you need to add the amount of water that is required and not a gram more. After all, a mixture that is too liquid will not be able to solidify evenly, which will cause rapid wear of the material.
• The strength of the tile coating is highly dependent on the quality of the cement used during the work. It is advisable to use only the material that has the brand M200 and above.
• To improve resistance to damage, you need to use plasticizers, they can increase the properties of the material and make it stronger.

The best manufacturers of clinker tiles

Do-it-yourself tiles will come out much cheaper than an analogue from a store, and the quality may not be inferior, but if you do not want to spend your time and money on a tedious production process, then you can use the offers of companies that have already established themselves as experienced manufacturers of facade tiles.

• Stroeher is a company that has conquered the German tile market in a short time. Their technology for the production of clinker tiles is unique due to the fact that they add special components to the composition of the tiles that improve the frost-resistant qualities of the product. A big plus of the company is that they give a guarantee of 25 years for their products.
• King Klinker is a Polish company for the production of facing materials. Their clinker tiles deserve attention. It has high water repellency. At the stage of preparing the solution, polymers are added to it, creating a protective film on the surface of the mixture.
• Lithos. A unique technology for the manufacture of clinker tiles using hyperpress using kaolin. The final indicators of the tiles are very high. Durability and reliability are what characterize their products.

Video: Production of facade tiles

Facade tiles are one of the most reliable and popular options. exterior finish. They make it from sand-cement mixture, so the material is environmentally friendly. Thanks to the simple technology of laying facade tiles, it can be used not only to decorate the facade. The material is also suitable for finishing basements, balconies. Among the variety of types and textures, you can easily choose the right option.

This material is used only for exterior decoration of buildings or their individual elements. Therefore, it has the following set of technical characteristics:

1. Resistance to mechanical stress, point impacts, scratches.
2. wear resistance. For a long time retains the original appearance, is not covered with mold.
3. moisture resistance. Due to the minimum number of pores, the material does not pass water through itself.
4. Low temperature resistance.
5. Unaffected by ultraviolet light, does not fade in the sun.

Average life time facade tiles - 50 years and over.

Types of facing tiles

For finishing facades, you can use any option. Each of them has its own distinctive properties.

Table 1. Classification of facade tiles.

Any of these varieties can be mounted do it yourself. For this, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work:

• clean the surface of debris and dust;
• level the walls - apply a layer of plaster up to a thickness of 2 cm;
• wait for the plaster to dry and rub the surface with a special brush.

Advice! For greater reliability, you can use a reinforcing mesh. It is mounted in the process of plastering walls.

Price for decorative stone

Decorative rock

Options for the manufacture of facade tiles

Facade tiles do not have to be purchased. If there is special equipment and the necessary knowledge, the material can be made by hand. Then you can develop your own unique samples, experiment with the composition. But it is better not to violate the basic proportions and production technology so that the product turns out with good set characteristics. There are two ways to make finishing material at home.

vibrocasting

For this, the most affordable option raw materials - concrete. To prepare the composition, you will need:

• Portland cement;
• sand;
• crushed stone of fine fraction;
• slaked lime or synthetic plasticizer.

Important! If you do not add a plasticizer to the solution, it will not differ in frost resistance and water repellency.

Production order:

1. kneaded concrete mortar.
2. concrete mass poured into forms. You can use plastic or wooden molds, but the most optimal material for this - polyurethane, with which you can convey the texture of the tile to the smallest detail.
3. Blanks are established on the platform of the vibrating table, it is connected to the network.
4. Air is removed from the molds rammed down and put out to dry.

To give the tiles the desired shade, you can add dye into concrete at the stage of its mixing. But there is a more economical option - coating the inner surface of the mold with paint before pouring it with a solution.

Vibrocompression

Suitable for all types of finishing material, but most often used for the manufacture of clinker tiles. Allows you to increase the density of the material without the use of a large volume of liquid. Polyurethane molds are used for filling.

Clinker tiles are made as follows:

1. Modifiers are added to the clay mass.
2. The solution is laid in a special machine with a vibropress.
3. In it, the mass is compressed under pressure, blanks are formed from it.
4. After the clay dries, the blanks are fired at a temperature 1300 degrees.

The result is a material with increased resistance to damage, so the need for repairs is minimized. After dismantling, such a tile can be used re.

Video - Production of facade tiles at home

Mounting methods

There are two options for laying tiles - dry and wet.

Dry installation

Its second name is ventilated facade. With this mounting option, additional thermal insulation of the building is created. This method is considered the most costly and reliable. The dry version is more suitable for laying porcelain tiles, but it can also be used for mounting other types of materials.

Its design includes the following elements:

• aluminum profile;
• brackets;
• membrane;
• insulation;
• facade tiles.

As a heater, it is better to use non-combustible material - mineral wool . Installation is carried out in a certain order:

1. With the help of the level is done wall markings. It is necessary to outline two vertical lines and one horizontal.
2. Drill being drilled holes for anchor bolts. Brackets are installed under the profile.
3. On the wall insulation is fixed. On top of it is superimposed a special membrane of non-woven materials.
4. The frame is being installed from metal profile. It is fixed with rivets. The distance between the profile should be equal to the length of the tile.
5. In the profile holes are made under the tile clamps. With the help of rivets they are attached to the frame.
6. mounted facing tiles. First the bottom row, and then the top rows.

Note! If the facade tiles already have factory fixing plates, they are attached to the profile using self-tapping screws.

The price of porcelain tiles

Ceramic tiles

Wet tile installation

To fix the tiles, a special mixture is used. The adhesive mortar is made on a cement-sand basis. It is better to take it from the same manufacturer as the tile. This method is more suitable for ceramic tiles.

Required tools:

• notched spatula;
• mallet;
• adhesive solution;
• Master OK;
• level;
• plumb;
• mooring cord.

Important! For wet process styling is only suitable for sunny weather. In this case, the air temperature must be within +5-25 degrees.

The installation process consists of several stages:

1. alignment surfaces, elimination of defects.
2. Wall covering primer.
3. kneading adhesive solution.
4. Application mixtures on the wall. So that the solution does not have time to dry, the surface must be covered under 2-3 tiles, no more.
5. Distribution adhesive on the back of the tile.
6. laying down corner tiles. Covering the main part of the wall. Rows must be horizontal. They are leveled with a cord-mooring.
7. Compliance seam widths within 6-12 mm. Leveling a tile by level by tapping it with a mallet.

Excess glue is wiped off with a piece of dry cloth. If you perform all the work in accordance with the instructions, the tile will last a long time.

How stitching is done - step by step instructions

They are filled with a solution to bind all the elements into a single whole. It also contributes to enhanced sealing of the seams. After this procedure, the facade looks noble, and the finish is less exposed to the aggressive influence of the external environment. Grouting is carried out in several stages. Each of them has its own characteristics.

Step 1. Moisturizing the seams. Before starting work, you need to wait until the solution is completely dry - 10 to 15 days. If you start the jointing of the seams ahead of time, this will negatively affect the strength of the finish.

Attention! The water that is part of the adhesive mixture will not find a way out and will destroy facade from the inside. This is especially dangerous for regions with extremely low air temperatures in winter.

Work with seams begins with their moistening. For this, a sprayer is used. Due to wetting with water, adhesion between surfaces is improved. It is necessary to moisten the seams in all directions - both horizontally and vertically.

Step 2. Mixing the solution. A mixture based on lime and cement has good plasticity. It is easy to level and distribute on the work surface. cement in pure not suitable for this. It can only be used with the addition of plasticizers to ensure the normal hardening of the mixture.

Construction mixer price

construction mixer

To prepare the solution, you will need the following components:

• cement - 1 bucket;
• slaked lime - 1 bucket;
• sand - 5 buckets.

Liquid plasticizer can be used instead of lime. The solution is mixed in a certain order:

1. Pour water in small portions. Suitable ordinary water from the tap.
2. Continuously stir the composition until it becomes homogeneous, and in consistency similar to wet sand, which sticks together well if it is crushed.
3. The finished mixture is used for 2 hours. Then the solution hardens, becomes unsuitable for work. Even if diluted with water, it will not help improve adhesion between surfaces.

If you do not want to prepare the mixture yourself, you can buy ready-made. Then it is used in accordance with the instructions that come with it.

Note! The strength of the solution depends not only on compliance with the technology of its mixing. This is also affected by the base on which the mixture is applied. It must be clean and even.

Step 3. Filling the seams. The moistened surface is filled with a ready-made solution. This is done as follows:

1. The composition is collected on a spatula.
2. Using a trowel, the mixture is brought into the open seam.
3. Tamp the seam. To do this, it is ironed with a trowel with a slight pressure.

Composition consumption for tiles with thickness from 8 to 12 mm will be within 4-5 kg ​​per 1 sq.m. During operation, part of the grout mixture crumbles. In order to save money, it is better to lay a clean plastic film on the floor. The crumbled solution can be carefully collected and used for its intended purpose.

caulking gun prices

Sealant gun

Step 4. Cleaning and moisturizing the seams. After tamping, you need to remove the remnants of the mortar from the tile. To do this, carefully sweep the finish with a brush with soft bristles or a soft brush.

Advice! Movements are performed diagonally. Then you can easily remove the excess mixture without damaging the seams.

After that, the seams are sprayed with water from the sprayer. This helps prevent premature drying of the mortar and its cracking.

Video - How to grout the seams of hand-molded clinker tiles

Laying clinker facade tiles

Clinker tiles are a material increased strength. But in order for it to serve for a long time, it is necessary to follow the technology of working with it. Installation of finishing material takes place in stages.

Preparatory activities

As a base for finishing, you can use plaster or reinforced concrete with increased frost resistance. There are special requirements for the base:

• perfect smoothness;
• good bearing capacity;
• absence of cracks, voids and poorly fixed parts;
• absolute cleanliness - without dirt, greasy stains, bituminous mastic.

There must be a layer waterproofing to prevent moisture penetration and destruction of the facade. If there are fragile places on the base that crumble, they are removed. All irregularities are leveled with plaster no later than 3 days before laying.

Important! Additionally, you can install thermal insulation. Then the heat will not spread to the external environment, pathogenic microorganisms and fungus will not penetrate the house. At the same time, heating costs in the cold season will be reduced by almost half.

Glue kneading

For this purpose, it is most convenient to use a mechanical mixer. Preparing a cement mortar M-500 and sand in the ratio 1:3 . Water is added to this mixture in small portions and mixed until the mass becomes plastic and homogeneous.

You can also use a ready-made solution, but the scope of its application must correspond to the planned construction work. Such glue is most often applied to the tile itself, so do not leave it on inside important notes or calculations.

Attention! You can not immediately apply too much glue mixture, otherwise the mass will become weathered or dry. Excess solution is removed immediately before it hardens.

Styling features

Before proceeding with the installation process, the materials must be removed from the packaging and mixed so that there are no sharp deviations in color. Only slight differences in shades are allowed.

Start laying only in good weather - at a temperature within +5-30 degrees and no rain. If it is too hot outside or the precipitation does not stop, and the work needs to be urgently continued, you can use a shelter in the form of an awning and a background.

Advice! If clinker-coated thermal panels are used, they can be installed in all weather conditions. This will not affect the quality of the finish.

The process of laying clinker tiles occurs in a certain order:

1. Wall surface moistened sprayer water.
2. On her building mix is ​​applied thick 3-4 cm. The solution is leveled with a rail.
3. Approximate markup tile locations.
4. Above fits finishing material. The width of the seam should be no more than 12 mm.
5. Installation of tiles begins with the design of sites around windows and doors. After that, proceed to the corners of the building. To facilitate the installation process, you can use a special tile - corner, which emphasizes the lines of the walls and looks natural.
6. Surface splashed water and covered with polyethylene for uniform drying of the mixture.

Note! For ease of installation, the walls can be divided into conditional squares with a side 1m. If the contours of the tile do not fit into this figure, it can be cut with a saw.”

In order for the facade decoration to look harmonious and be durable, it is recommended to adhere to the following tips:

• tiles of rich and dark shades are laid out at the bottom of the facade - at a height up to 6 m from the foundation
• dark colors enhance the overheating of the building, so it should be no more than 20% from total area tiles;
• for grouting you can use a ready-made color mixture, which is combined with the tone of the finishing material;
• before applying the mortar, the surface of the walls is better primer and wait for it to dry completely;
• it is desirable to lay clinker rows, starting from the bottom of the facade;
• if attached to the walls insulation, on top it is covered with a reinforcing mixture or fiberglass;
• if a lot of dirt remains after sealing the seams, it is removed with a stream of water under high pressure, and for especially neglected cases use special substances.

Also, pay attention to our article on the topic - where we analyzed the installation technology in detail.

Facade tiles are becoming more and more popular, and the process of its installation is not very laborious. Even a beginner can cope with this if he takes into account the laying technology. In order for the finish to look spectacular, perform a protective function and retain heat inside the building for longer, you need to carefully consider its installation.

For exterior decoration of building facades, a special facing material is used - facade tiles. It is made from mineral mixtures, which may include cement, quartz sand, shale or clay. Making facade tiles with your own hands is carried out on special equipment, which allows you to achieve the desired technical and decorative qualities coatings.

What is a facade tile?

Facade tiles are an environmentally friendly facing material that is used not only for finishing the facades of houses, but also for paving open areas or paths. The service life of such a coating is much longer than that of facade plaster. That is why facing materials have become so popular in the exterior decoration of buildings.

What types of tiles for facade cladding are there?

• terracotta;
• clinker;
• glass coated;
• with ceramic coating;
• two-layer with decorative ceramic finishing.

Features of facade tiles

Whatever materials you decide to make a facing material, it will have the following qualities:

• high strength;
• low level of water absorption;
• frost resistance;
• wear resistance;
• long service life.

By selecting the shape of the appropriate configuration, it is possible to create coatings with various shapes (triangular, square, polyhedral, asymmetric). This allows you to decorate buildings in almost any style. However, it should be understood that the independent production of facade tiles is fraught with some difficulties. In particular, this applies to the acquisition or assembly of the necessary equipment.

The nuances of the production of tile materials

If you want to get really high-quality and durable material at the output, in no case try to save on raw materials. Making facade tiles at home is already quite a risky undertaking for those who are faced with such a process for the first time. But if you strictly follow the recommendations of experienced craftsmen, as a result of molding a properly prepared solution, you will certainly get a durable facing material.

What points should be paid special attention to?

1. The amount of water - solutions that are too liquid in consistency, as a rule, solidify unevenly, which leads to cracking of the material. To avoid this, do not add too much water to the mixture;
2. Addition of plasticizers- to improve the physical and mechanical properties of the coating, add plasticizers to the raw material;
3. Cement is a fortress and, accordingly, coatings are largely determined by the quality of cement. In the production of tile coating, it is desirable to use cement not lower than grade M200.

Necessary equipment

What equipment is required for the production of facade tiles? To create a high-quality coating, you must purchase the following equipment:

• Concrete mixer - if the amount of work is small, you can use an ordinary construction mixer to mix the components of the raw materials. But in the case of using such equipment, mixing the components of the solution should take no less than received;
• Vibrating table - the vibrating surface of the table during the molding process allows you to compact the solutions, which affects the density of the future coating. If necessary, it can be assembled independently by attaching to metal table construction vibrator;
• Forms - directly in the forms and the raw materials will solidify. To make such structures, it is enough to collect wooden frame the required shape, fastening the parts with metal corners.

Of course, by purchasing professional equipment for the manufacture of facade tiles, you can achieve significantly best results. In particular, this applies to forms. If it is necessary to create a tile that imitates natural stone or brick, matrices with a corrugated surface will be required.

The process of making tiles

The manufacturing technology of facade tiles is quite simple, but requires careful implementation of all stages of work. What materials are required to pour the concrete solution into the mold?

• containers for diluting the solution;
• construction mixer and spatula;
• cement (not lower than grade m500);
• plasticizers;
• pigments for dyeing raw materials;
• sand.

So, direct process The production of tile materials consists of the following stages:

1. In a container, a solution of the above components is diluted;
2. By using construction mixer the components of the mixture are mixed until the mass is homogeneous;
3. Forms are placed on the vibrating table and the concrete mixture is poured into them;
4. So that when removing the tile does not get stuck, the molds are initially coated with soapy water;
5. The semi-finished product is covered with polyethylene and left for several days;
6. Then the half-dried tile is laid out and left for another couple of days until it is completely cured.

The process of production of tile materials is shown in more detail in the video clip.

Manufacturers overview

To choose really high-quality tiles, you need to give preference only to the most popular and well-established manufacturers. These include:

• Stroeher- German manufacturer tile materials in the composition of raw materials adds mineral granules and modifying components that improve the frost resistance of the coating. Stroeher façade tiles have a 25-year lifetime warranty;
• King Klinker is one of the best Polish manufacturing companies facing coatings produces high quality tiles with very low water absorption. Polymeric compounds are added to the solution before molding, forming a protective film on the surface of the tile;
• Lithos - facade tiles are made by hyper-pressing from a cement composition with the addition of kaolin substances. As a result, the coating has high technical indicators such as strength and frost resistance.

Making facade tiles is a relatively simple process that requires the master to accurately perform work at all stages. At the same time, the quality of the future coating is largely determined by the composition of the raw material and the homogeneity of the prepared solution.

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Facade cladding with tiles successfully competes with painting, so the demand for durable, aesthetic facade tiles is high. Based on demand, manufacturers offer different kinds high-quality cladding, differing in the material of manufacture, format and color, but the material you like is not always affordable. In this situation, it is possible to reduce the cost of finishing the facade by making facade tiles with your own hands.

You don't need a lot of room to make tiles.

The choice of molds for casting tiles

In the conditions of the enterprise, facade tiles are made in ways, of which only one is suitable for home conditions - vibration casting. At the same time, it should be taken into account that the prices for high-quality molds are quite high, the turnover of molds for casting facade tiles is up to 1500 cycles, so it makes no sense to buy them for the manufacture of 5-10 square meters of decoration. But, if the amount of work on facing is significant, the cost of buying molds or making them yourself from polymeric materials will give significant savings. Money.

The use of primitive home-made molds from improvised materials during casting, although it is a less expensive option for performing work, does not guarantee the aesthetics of the finish.

Silicone molds can withstand a huge number of castings

Molds for casting tiles according to the material of manufacture are divided into 3 types:

• silicone;
• plastic;
• polyurethane.

Of the listed types, polyurethane molds are suitable for the manufacture of facade tiles at home, since silicone ones are fragile, and products from plastic molds due to the glossy surface they are unlike natural stone.

The process of manufacturing facade tiles by vibrocasting consists of the following steps:

1. Form making.
2. Solution preparation.
3. Pouring solution into moulds.
4. Extraction of products.

Let's consider these stages in more detail.

Making a wood tile mold is the easiest way

Production of polyurethane molds for facade tiles

First of all, you need to decide what kind of tiles the facade will be finished with, think over its dimensions, format and configuration of the front surface. A rational solution would be to temporarily borrow several samples of natural stone products from a professional workshop, which it was decided to imitate. These samples will be used as matrices in the manufacture of do-it-yourself molds.

Molds for making polyurethane tiles

Mold making material

For the manufacture of the molds themselves, it is necessary to purchase a two-component polyurethane casting compound, for example, Nomacon-TM KPTD-1, Formosil or Poly. These compositions, prepared in the right proportions with a hardener and poured into the formwork, turn into a durable elastic product that is resistant to mechanical damage, vibration, chemicals, low temperatures and humidity.

Formwork manufacturing and matrix installation

As a base for the formwork, a piece of Plexiglas is used a little larger than the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe stone and the sample is placed on it with the face up. The excess of the stone above the level of the base is measured and around the sample at a distance of 2-3 cm, the contour of the future formwork is applied with a marker.

The stone is removed from the base and silicone sealant“For aquariums” a rectangular formwork made by hand from the same plexiglass is attached to the plexiglass along the applied contour. The height of the formwork should be 1.5-2 cm more than the height of the sample. Then the sample is put in place, the joint of the stone with the base is covered with the same silicone and the product is allowed to dry for a day.

Mold for pouring fence slabs

If the sample material has a high porosity, then its surface is covered with a thin layer of a solution of paraffin in kerosene or white spirit in a ratio of 1:2, which will act as a release agent and facilitate the removal of the matrix from the hardened polyurethane mass. The separator needs an hour to dry.

Preparation of a solution for pouring

After the glue has dried, the preparation of the polyurethane mass for pouring begins.

In two separate dry and clean containers, the required quantities of polymer and hardener are poured in the right proportion. Then they are poured into a third dry and clean container and thoroughly mixed with their own hands, touching the walls of the container.

When working with the components of the compound, protective clothing, gloves and goggles should be used, avoiding direct contact of the polymer with the body. If the solution comes into contact with the skin, immediately wash it off with running water with detergent!

Before pouring the formwork with the compound, it is necessary to cover the matrix with a thin layer of polyurethane with a dry brush to reduce the number of air bubbles that form on the sample surface when the bulk of the mixture is applied.

One of the corners of the base is raised, and the filling of the formwork with polymer is started from the lower corner, simultaneously introducing the composition and lowering the raised corner. With a horizontal position of the base, the thickness of the polyurethane layer above the upper point of the matrix should be 2-3 cm.

The compound, depending on the type, hardens in about a day, after which they begin to extract the matrix.

Matrix extraction

A day after pouring, the formwork is dismantled, cutting the places of gluing with silicone with a clerical knife. The matrix in polyurethane is turned upside down and the degree of curing of the polymer is evaluated, since it may take up to three days for the final solidification. If the compound is not completely frozen, the stone is left in it until the solution is completely fixed.

Several matrices can be made at the same time to make tiles of different shapes

The frozen polyurethane mold is carefully separated from the surface of the matrix with your own hands, trying not to damage the surface texture, which repeats the structure of the stone.

So that the facade decoration is not primitive or monotonous, it is necessary to make at least 5 forms using different matrices.

Preparation of mortar for molding tiles

There are many recipes for preparing a solution, but cement-based formulations are widely used. For the manufacture of the main component for pouring into molds, the following technology can serve:

2 parts of sand are mixed with one part of water for 1-2 minutes, after which 4 parts of cement and 2 parts of water are added and mixed for 2-3 minutes. Then, 8 parts of sand and one part of water are gradually added to the solution and mixed, after which a dye is added to the mixture in an amount of not more than 4-5% of the total volume of the batch. Using white M500 cement instead of the usual gray Portland cement will result in a tile with more saturated tones.

In the manufacture of facade tiles with their own hands, fillers from small chips of natural stone (granite, marble, limestone) are also used, which increase the strength characteristics of products and similarity with natural stone finishes. To do this, out of 8 parts of sand during kneading, 4 parts are replaced with crumbs.

Facade tile molding

The molds are placed on a working vibrating table and filled with a ready-made solution using a trowel - a narrow mason's trowel. If the composition of the solution does not include fillers from natural crumbs and dye, then the pigment is first introduced into the molds with a layer of 1-1.5 cm, after which they are gradually filled flush with the edges with the main composition. This allows you to get a tile with a front surface evenly colored to a depth of 1.5-2 cm.

Given the high cost of the vibrating table and the laboriousness of making it yourself, you can do without it when molding tiles. If a sheet of steel or chipboard (chipboard) is installed on two supports, and polyurethane molds are placed on it, then the mixture in the molds can be compacted by tapping on the sheet from below with a hammer.

After compaction of the form, trying not to deform, they transfer it to a horizontal surface for two days. During this time, the products are not moved or touched.

Exposure to forms and products of direct sunlight and high temperatures unacceptable, as this reduces the strength of the tiles and the turnover of polyurethane forms.

Removing products from molds

For the correct extraction of the cliche with the product for several minutes to increase the elasticity of the polymer, they are placed in a container with water at a temperature of 40-60 degrees. The tile is removed by hand, tapping on the polyurethane with a rubber mallet, and until fully cured, it is laid in one layer in a cool place for 7-10 days.

Conclusion

With a significant amount of finishing work, this technology provides significant cost savings, and the quality of the facing material made by oneself, although inferior to industrial designs, is quite high.

Despite the huge selection of ready-made finishing materials, various homemade products are always relevant, giving an exclusive interior or facade. Stable popularity among home craftsmen is enjoyed by various variations decorative tiles, imitating brickwork that brightens up any room. In this article, we will consider two ways of making such an imitation - with a completely different raw material base and technology, they are united by simplicity and accessibility.

• DSP decorative tiles for interior and exterior decoration
• Decorative plaster brick

DSP decorative tiles for interior and exterior decoration

This method was shared in a comment by a member of our portal with the nickname Albeduin.

Albeduin Member FORUMHOUSE

Preparation method decorative stone without pouring each into molds, such tiles can be made in the simplest way. Price Supplies per 1 m² - within 15-30 rubles.

Decorative brick with your own hands.

The price was relevant three years ago, even taking into account the rise in price, it has not fundamentally increased, especially when you consider that not only raw materials become more expensive over time, but also a square of finished tiles today is worth a lot.

Solution

The solution is prepared from sand, cement, water and an acrylic primer (concentrate) - it is the primer that provides the solution with uniformity and elasticity, and the finished tile with increased strength. The ratio of cement and sand is 1/3, primers are about 100 ml per bucket (half a glass, added after mixing the DSP). The solution becomes sufficiently liquid, and keeps its shape and does not float due to the primer.

Equipment

The tile manufacturing process consists of several stages and does not require expensive equipment or special materials, but you will have to make a couple of special devices yourself.

Frame- the base and sides are made of plywood, 6-8 mm thick, the ends are made of wooden bars. To ensure high adhesion of the tile with future bases, the back side is also made textured, with characteristic roughness, laying a substrate under the laminate on plywood. The dimensions of the frame are arbitrary and are tied only to the result - for what purposes and what sizes the tile is needed.

Masher- assembled from wood and plastic, designed to cut the total mass in the form into tiles. A framework from wooden laths on which the plastic cutting part protruding on thickness of a tile is fixed. Topikstarter suggests using school rulers as knives, but there are a lot of variations.

Albeduin made the task as simple as possible for all those interested, accompanying the description of the work procedure with graphics.

Tile making

The form is placed on a table, workbench or any other flat surface and fill with a solution - it must be laid out from one edge and leveled with a rule or spatula, bringing it to the end. To give relief to the front tiled surface, after leveling the mortar, they pass it with a trowel “to touch”, after which they are again leveled along the edges of the frame. It turns out voids and furrows, but with a smooth edge.

After about 15-20 minutes, when the mortar begins to dry, the tiles themselves are molded with a crusher, they can not be cut through, a half-thickness seam is enough. The frozen tile will easily break into segments, and it will take less effort during molding. After molding with a spatula, the solution is cut along the perimeter of the frame - to avoid problems with removing the blanks. In the frame, the blanks are left for three days, if the volume is needed large, several frames are made and stacked on top of each other during drying.

After three days, the extraction of semi-finished products begins - they remove the frame and pull the workpiece over the substrate until the edge of the base coincides with the seam, and carefully break it off. Albeduin advises breaking off fragments of four tiles, this will simplify coloring, and after breaking into segments. The tiles are stacked and left for another four days to dry.

They paint the tiles with tinting pastes, but they are added not to the paint, but to the acrylic primer. There are no exact proportions, since the mass of producers and different concentrations. An approximate ratio is an eighth of a tube per liter of primer, but pay attention to recommendations for use, do not exceed the maximum proportion. To obtain a shade close to ceramic brick, three colors are used - yellow, red and black. The paste of each color is mixed separately and applied to the tile with a brush in turn.

First goes yellow, this will be the base, it will be completely absorbed into the surface. After it dries, red is applied, since the tile has already absorbed the yellow primer, the permeability has deteriorated, and the red will partially spread over the voids. The black color is diluted thinner, and it is practically not absorbed and will gather in the voids, giving a light shade.

Such layered coloring not only gives a more natural color, but also protects the tile from external influences, and it can be used both indoors and on the facade.

If desired, you can "play" with any shades, adjusting to the interior.

A broken tile is obtained by cutting the segments not with a crusher, but with a spatula edge, otherwise the technology is no different. You can overwrite the seams with the same solution from which the tile is made - DSP with a primer. Do not use ready-made grouting compounds, as they are designed for smooth surface, and in the relief of homemade tiles they will clog tightly and spoil the whole look. When grouting with a solution after drying, an indelible coating is also formed, but it is easily removed - after the seam dries, it is passed over with a brush dipped in a primer.

Corner tiles

Corner tiles are also made using this production technology, it is more difficult, but also quite realistic at home. Depending on the desired angle, the frame is assembled not rectangular, but triangular. For those who know how to work with wood and have an electric jigsaw, it will not be difficult to assemble a form from plywood and timber. Especially, having a visual aid from Albeduin.

But not only the shape is different, there are nuances in the manufacturing process.

The substrate - not only fits separately into each cell, but is also positioned so that the grooves on its surface run horizontally. This is done to keep the solution on an inclined base.

The mortar is made thicker than for a flat tile and with a double dose of primer, since it must be more elastic, not ride up behind the rule and not fall out of the cells. On a thick solution, it will not work to get the texture with slaps, the relief is forced through arbitrarily with the tip of a trowel or spatula.

Extraction - as in the first version, the blanks are pulled out of the mold after three days, carefully prying along with the substrate, but for final drying they are not stacked, but placed on the edge and the substrate is torn off. If it does not go away (due to an increase in the amount of primer in the solution), leave it for another couple of days.

Division - break the tiles into segments when they lie on the edge, pulling (you can not pull) on the short side (up). To simplify breaking, even during the molding process, through notches are made along the ribs, and not just trimmed around the perimeter of a large segment.

The strength of such a facade tile is best indicated by the fact that on the base own house topixarter, she has been feeling great for the seventh year. And on the wall in the unheated utility room, nothing happened to her for several years.

Decorative plaster brick

And for the manufacture of imitation brickwork in a way from a portal member with a nickname Vodnik-k2 even simple fixtures not required - "bricks" of gypsum are made directly on the walls.

Vodnik-k2 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I want to bring to your attention gypsum plaster under the old brickwork with my own hands. Choosing decorative trim, suitable for the coffered ceiling made in the hallway, settled on the old brickwork. But we decided not to use ready-made materials, but to make brick-like plaster.

Vodnik-k2 offers its own solution to the issue, embodied in the corridor - gypsum plaster under the old brickwork, the cost of which is about 70 rubles per m² (the price of plaster, pigment and protective coating).

Although the technology itself is absolutely simple, the monotony of the process is somewhat annoying for “knitting lovers”.

Gypsum brick with your own hands. Training

Prime the walls, beat off (by means of chalk laces or draw according to the rule) the borders on them, observing the dimensions of a real brick (every second row is enough). Make a stencil: into four bricks, you can cut it out of plexiglass (plexiglass) 5 mm.

Preparation of the mixture - a bag of dry gypsum plaster (25 kg), dry pigments: ocher (1 l), red (0.5), brown (0.6). All dry components are thoroughly mixed in a large container (for convenience), the gypsum base is poured first. The easiest way to measure the pigment is with a measuring cup ( kitchenware). Close the mixture with water (you can add a little primer, the composition will be more elastic) until the consistency of sculptural clay (thick, but easy to form). The effect obtained depends on the consistency, thick mortar - under the old brick, thinner - under the new brick.

Application

The stencil is applied to the wall and the solution is applied, it does not matter which tool is used for laying, even with your hands, if it is more convenient, the main thing is to rub it properly. The excess is cut off with a spatula, and since the batch is relatively sticky, it reaches for the tool to tear off, as a result of which the characteristic relief of ceramic bricks is obtained. Before removing the stencil, the borders of the “masonry” are cut with an awl (trowel, knife) so that the edges do not bulge. After removing the stencil, the surface of the tiles is lightly smoothed with the flat part of the spatula. Manufacturing process decorative brick repeats over the entire surface allocated for imitation.

For sealing seams Vodnik-k2 used home-made grout from a mixture of gypsum mounting adhesive and dry sand (fraction 0.75), taken in equal proportions and sealed with a primer. The mixture was squeezed out of the bag (if you don’t mind, a large culinary syringe will do), if necessary, trimmed with a spatula and brush.

After the plaster has completely dried, the walls are covered with protective and decorative compounds. Which one depends on the desired effect. Topikstarter coated with styrene-butadiene latex diluted 1/6 with water. The product can be applied with a brush, roller or garden sprayer. If the coverage area is small, a nozzle on plastic bottle. Latex increases the adhesion of the plaster to the wall, evens out its permeability. To make the plaster moisture resistant and provide the possibility of wet care, it is coated with a water repellent after latex. You should not abuse latex impregnation - one layer allows you to decorate the product, gives a pleasant, silky sheen, after two there will be a gloss that will not add a look to the brick.