How to overlay a brick oven with tiles. How to overlay the oven with tiles with your own hands? How to remove old plaster from the stove

Facing fireplaces and stoves with ceramic tiles, one might say, is a classic type of finish. This material has been preferred for many centuries, because the coating is strong, durable and aesthetic.
Tiles were the first to be used, the beauty of which could not leave anyone indifferent - in many historical buildings such stoves delight the eye even after two hundred years. They were made by hand and were very expensive, but over time, other options appeared, the price of which is not so high.
We will tell you which ceramic tiles for lining furnaces are currently used, and what is the production technology for this work.

The outcome of any finish largely depends on correct selection material used, and ceramic tiling of stoves is no exception. Special requirements are imposed on the decorative coating of the furnace.
This is understandable, because it will be subject to constant heating and cooling.
So:

• Everything is important here: from the quality of brickwork, and ending with technical specifications adhesive used for lining the oven with ceramic tiles. Therefore, before instructions for performing facing work are given, we bring to your attention an overview of those types of tiles that are suitable for finishing a fireplace or stove in all respects.

Finally, small digression at prices for the types of tiles indicated in the table, as well as consumables necessary for work:

• Clinker tiles - from 950 rubles / m2
• Porcelain stoneware - from 260 rubles / m2
• Terracotta - from 1180 rubles / m2
• Majolica - from 1220 rubles / m2
• Tiles - from 1300 rubles / m2

Facing a brick oven with ceramic tiles cannot be done without a heat-resistant primer, glue and grout:

• A G-77 soil canister weighing 1 kg costs about 200 rubles.
• The cost of a bag of glue weighing 25 kg varies between 350-420 rubles.
• Grout for joints, a bucket weighing 2 kg will cost about 230 rubles.

Getting Started

Ceramic tiling of a brick-built heating stove is an ideal finishing option for the simple reason that these materials are made from the same raw material - clay. Their thermal conductivity is approximately the same, which means that the difference in thermal expansion coefficients is small and will not cause problems.
So:

• A brick oven, in any case, if it is double-circuit, warms up slowly and evenly, retains heat for a long time, and cools down just as slowly. If the oven has one circuit, some places on its body may overheat, and this is not very good.
  In such a situation, ceramic tiling of stoves should be carried out not with a mortar, but with a heat-resistant adhesive or silicone sealant.

• In any case, the most important condition for high-quality cladding is careful preparation of the base. If an operating furnace is being updated, the old coating must be removed by cleaning the base to the brick.
  Cleaning should be such that there are no remnants of old plaster or adhesive mortar on the brickwork, for which a metal brush is usually used.
• Moreover, with the help of a chisel and a hammer, the solution should be removed from the seams, deepening them by 10 mm. Such preparation will contribute to better adhesion of the tile adhesive to the brickwork. Then we remove dust from the surface, and treat it with soil, and while it dries, we make a solution.

Choice of solution

So:

• It can be cement and sand mixed in a ratio of 1: 3 + 30% water, and it is advisable to add PVA glue at the rate of 300g per bucket of mortar. Alternatively, you can make a clay mixture with sand.
  Their ratio depends on the fat content of the clay, which is usually indicated on the packaging. Any mortar should be mixed with a construction mixer to prevent the formation of lumps.

• The composition of heat-resistant dry adhesive mixtures in the factory version, in addition to cement, also includes modifying additives: latex, acrylic, and other types of resins. It is they that enhance the adhesive properties of the adhesive, make it immune to elevated temperatures. And its cost is not so high as to give preference to ordinary clay or cement mortar.
• For example, to finish a single-circuit furnace, you definitely need to use a factory mixture. Otherwise, there is a risk that the lining will fall off in places of local overheating. In what ratio to dilute it, you can read on the package, and try to follow the manufacturer's recommendations exactly.
• At the same time, the facing of brick ovens with ceramic tiles is carried out along a reinforcing mesh, and it is better to take the fiberglass option. It is fixed with nails, which are hammered into the seams between the bricks.
  It is necessary to make sure that the mesh is held firmly enough, but not too tight - you need to take into account the thermal expansion of the brick.

• And yet, when finishing a single-circuit furnace, the gap between the tiles should be made larger: not 2-3 mm, but 4-5 mm. Ordinary crosses will not provide it, therefore, before tiling the oven with ceramic tiles, stock up square templates of the desired thickness, as in the photo above.
  It can be any material at hand: pieces of plywood, plastic, or thick cardboard.
• It is better to apply the adhesive solution to the surface first, distribute it with a notched trowel - let it dry. Then, just apply glue to the tile, lay it, press it against the wall of the oven, and tap with a rubber mallet, expelling air and excess mortar.

• As soon as the glue sets, clean the seams between the tiles with a corner of the spatula, making room for the grout, which is done a day after the cladding. On this, do-it-yourself lining of the furnace with ceramic tiles is finished.

The above technology applies to all options. ceramic cladding except for tiles. This is the only type of tile that is mounted during the construction of the furnace, since its fastening is carried out by anchoring.
A tiled stove is a monolithic structure, where the cladding elements are fixed to each other, and are also an integral part of the brickwork. Look for the details of arranging such a furnace in the articles on our website.

If there is a stove in a private house, then it, like all other interior items, should be ennobled. When facing and finishing the stove, the preferences of the owners, the style of the room design and practicality are taken into account. You can give a presentable look to your favorite means of heating with your own hands and with the help of various materials, which you can choose based on preferences and material capabilities.

Facing the furnace and its purpose

Furnace lining is a process of changing its appearance. At the same time, the furnace itself and the lining can be made from different materials.

Facing allows you to solve the following tasks:

• decorative;
• functional.

The decor of the stove can be completely different, it depends on the materials used and on the ideas of the designers. As for the functionality of the cladding, they must be taken into account when carrying out work independently.

It is very important that after changing the appearance of the furnace, its ability to perform its main task, which is to heat the room with high quality, is not lost. The heat transfer of the furnace with proper lining increases. The possibility of penetration of combustible materials from the firebox into the living room is excluded, because when facing the master of the furnace business, they do not leave any cracks or cracks in the furnace structure. Some flaws (for example, cracks that have appeared) can be completely corrected by performing high-quality lining.

An unlined furnace device becomes a source of dust accumulation. The surface of the “original” appearance of this heating device is much more difficult to care for, and the lined stove can be wiped down and any dirt removed. This allows not only to monitor its appearance, but also relieve allergy sufferers from problems.

The beauty of facing materials can significantly change appearance your oven

Metal ovens

Be sure to note that it is not worth tiling metal furnaces with ceramic tiles due to the difference in the heating coefficients of these materials. Different time for heating and cooling metal and ceramics will lead to the fact that the outer ceramic layer of the furnace will become unusable - cracks, crevices, etc. will appear. The only way out in this case is to create a movable bond between the tile and the metal furnace. For such furnace structures, the technology of using clasps is common among professionals.

Brick - suitable material for furnace lining made of metal

brick ovens

Double-circuit brick ovens are most often lined with ceramic tiles. On the outer contour of this design, the tile keeps very well and at the same time does not need to be replaced with different brands. All work can be done with one material.

Single-circuit brick (“bathhouse”) stoves are lined with different mortars, adjusting both materials and bonding mixtures to different parts of the stove, paying special attention to local areas of strong heating. Porous durable material - porcelain stoneware - is best suited for "bath" stoves, as it is most suitable for rooms with frequent changes in temperature and humidity.

A variety of designs of ceramic tiles will help ennoble your brick oven

Types of lining of furnace devices

Before carrying out work on lining the furnace, it is necessary to carefully select the material to change the appearance of the furnace device. Properties to consider when choosing materials:

• high temperature resistance;
• good heat dissipation;
• mechanical reliability, practicality;
• adhesion strength with mortar;
• aesthetic appeal.

Most often, materials with a thickness of at least 6 mm with a low-porous structure are used for lining the furnace.

Since ancient times, brick, natural stone, tiled material, ceramic tiles have been used to change the appearance of the furnace. modern industry offers for such works an artificial stone, as well as soapstone.

Application of brick

Brick cladding can be done simultaneously with the laying of the furnace itself. She can compete in beauty with such expensive materials as granite, marble.

For better adhesion, one of the brick surfaces should be rough, the outer side, on the contrary, should be even in order to look the most aesthetically pleasing. Of course, refractory bricks should be used for such work. This material is also used to work on decor. metal furnace. To “smooth out” the different heating characteristics of metal and brick surfaces, a layer of ballast of dry sand of fine consistency is laid between them. This step will prevent the decorating layer from deforming when the heated metal expands and increase heat transfer.

Brick cladding drive the oven to the look that is most familiar to perception

Use of ceramic tiles

Glazed type ceramic tiles are suitable for cladding devices for space heating, but have limitations in use. This is due to the fact that it will not be able to withstand temperature deformations, because it is not equipped with special hooks and lock connections. Some craftsmen combine brickwork and ceramic fragments when lining the furnace. The neighborhood of these materials looks good and is practical way improve the appearance of the oven.

There are several types of ceramic tiles that can be safely used to decorate the oven:

• terracotta;
• clinker;
• majolica;
• porcelain tile.

Terracotta tiles

Terracotta tiles are famous for being able to withstand super high temperatures (up to 1000 o C). This tile is environmentally friendly, because no chemicals are used in its production, even as dyes. Natural shades of different clays give a color that is pleasant to the human eye. Using it, you can achieve optimal thermal conditions, because this material has a porous structure that retains heat well.

Many years of service life, relatively low price - the properties of this material that attract to use it for lining stoves and fireplaces.

Clinker tiles

Clinker tiles do not have such high heat transfer rates as terracotta type. But the masters of the furnace business also use it for cladding. The undoubted advantage of this material is the long-term preservation of heat, although there is also a significant disadvantage - slow heating. The oven lined with clinker tiles can be heated up to 1300°C.

Majolica

It is named so in honor of the island of Mallorca, from where this material was imported to Russia. The very expensive decoration of fireplaces and stoves with this tile spoke of the high prosperity of the owners. The production technology is similar to the terracotta variety of tiles, except that a decorating layer of different colors and patterns is applied over the clay base. This fact significantly increases the cost of the material.

Porcelain stoneware

Porcelain stoneware is a durable material with good performance moisture resistance and durability. Porcelain stoneware coating is resistant to various chemicals, so this coating can be washed with modern detergents.

Tiles

For a long time, masters of the furnace business struggled to create a universal material that is resistant to temperature extremes, and hence to temperature deformations. Tiles provide significant assistance to stove-makers, since their special configuration made it possible practical application clay tiles for lining stoves.

The back side of the tile was equipped with special ledges (rumps), which made it possible to reliably connect the array of masonry and tiles.

Special clips-hooks are used to connect the tiles to each other, for the same purpose, a solution is used, placed in the inter-tile space and ramps.

To work with tiles, certain skills are required, therefore, for facing these materials, it is best to turn to qualified specialists.

Facing a home stove with stone

For the exterior of the furnace, both natural stone and its artificial imitation can be used. Environmental friendliness, strength, durability, compliance with all requirements of the furnace device - these are the main characteristics that allow the use of natural stone for lining stoves and fireplaces. This decor looks beautiful, elegant, luxurious. Of course, the cost of natural stone is quite high, so not all stove owners can afford such a finish.

In the case of a budget option, you can use an artificial stone, which in appearance is not inferior to the natural "brother". Production artificial stone less expensive, so the price of this material becomes much lower. At the same time, many properties of natural material are preserved - a beautiful exterior, a wide range of colors and textures.

Soapstone

This modern finishing material is a volcanic rock with excellent qualities suitable for kiln lining:

• heat resistance;
• strength.

Its cost is high, most often due to skillful marketing. There are more economical and practical materials that can be used to improve the appearance of the stove.

Soapstone cladding material fits perfectly into modern interiors

Wood

Some wooden inserts are also suitable for facade decor, but no more. Such cladding does not conduct heat well and is fire resistant. Wood for lining the stove is best used in fragments, making elements adjacent to the stove out of this material: shelves, benches, corners. Wood for lining the stove is best used in fragments, making elements adjacent to the stove out of this material: shelves, benches, corners.

Wood looks great as a decoration when decorating a stove

Video: how to make a Russian stove lining with tiles

Necessary materials and tools

Before proceeding with the self-facing of the furnace, it is necessary to prepare all materials and tools. Depending on the facing material, materials for fastening and tools are selected.

Of the tools for tiling, it is advisable to take:

• Master OK;
• spatulas from different materials (rubber, metal) and different sizes;
• measuring instruments (ruler, centimeter, plumb line, level, etc.);
• devices for cutting tiles, grinder;
• rule;
• drill with a special nozzle for stirring the solution;
• rubber or wooden mallet;
• shovel;
• solution container;
• metal brush;
• brush.

Materials that will be needed for ceramic tiling:

• special composition for gluing;
• grout for seams;
• actual tile;
• Rabitz.

Preparatory stage

To ensure that the ceramic tiles used in the cladding do not fall off and serve for a long time and with high quality, the work surface must be prepared. The preliminary stage consists in removing any old stove coating - whitewash, plaster, varnish, etc.

If the stove masonry is old, then it is worth carefully inspecting it and eliminating possible defects. All cracks, holes, cracks must be covered up, wait for complete drying and then sand this surface. You will have to resort to leveling the walls if the device is slanted. A curved surface is unlikely to serve as a good "platform" for strengthening the cladding. For leveling, it is necessary to use a sand-cement mixture (at a ratio of 3: 1), cement is suitable with a grade of at least M400. To make the walls even and beautiful, do not forget to pick up a plumb line or building level more often.

The seams between the bricks should not be thick and protruding. It is best to deepen them with a grinder with a special nozzle. 10 mm will be enough. If there are no such devices, then you will have to use the "old-fashioned" method - a chisel with a hammer. After this procedure, clean the edges of the recesses with a metal brush.

The chain-link mesh placed between the brickwork and the ceramic surface will help to avoid various troubles arising from temperature changes (cracks, chips, distortions, voids, etc.). To keep the metal mesh firmly on the brickwork, use dowels (or nails 70-100 mm) in brick joints with a fastening step of 50 cm. The fasteners should protrude ten millimeters from the surface.

To give the working surface greater adhesion (adhesive properties), a primer layer of deep penetration is applied over the chain-link. Wait until the layer is completely dry, clean it and start laying ceramic tiles.

The stage of attaching the chain-link mesh will help in the future to better dock the ceramic plates

Do-it-yourself oven decoration

There are several types of do-it-yourself work on finishing a furnace device: plastering, ceramic tiling, painting, stone cladding, etc. It is not uncommon to use several materials at once.

Do-it-yourself ceramic tiling

After the preparatory work and collection necessary materials and tools, you can get to work.

1. Select the location of the furnace from which the ceramic plates will be glued. It is best to start from the right or left corner at the bottom. When laying out the tiles, check each of them for evenness, and also do not forget about the plumb line, using it to lay even rows. Use a notched trowel to apply the adhesive to the tiles.
2. Before laying out the lower first row, install a steel profile in the form of the letter "G" or an ordinary wooden lath, on which the first row will "lean". Fixing the bottom row in this case will be more reliable.
3. To make the seams between the tiles even and beautiful, use special mounting crosses.
4. You can adjust the position of the tiles with a rubber mallet, lightly tapping the ceramic surface.
5. Having laid out the main part with full-sized tiles, you can start facing areas where the whole tile does not fit. Using tile cutters, lay out all remaining areas of the oven gradually.
6. Try to erase the traces of the adhesive mass remaining on the tile until they harden, otherwise it will be much more difficult to do this.

Do not rush to grout the seams between the tiles until the glue is completely dry. Leave the oven alone for 2-3 days, and only then start grouting the seams. If you want to give the ceramics an even more presentable look, then coat the cladding with a colorless stone varnish with a soft brush (1-2 coats).

Facing with ceramic tiles helps to change the exterior for the better

Plastering

Applying plaster to the oven is the most easy way transforming the appearance of this device for warmth. Before proceeding with the finishing work, all owners of "newly made" stoves must withstand a month's time.

The most commonly used materials are dry heat-resistant mixtures. The prepared solution is applied in layers with a time period between them of at least four hours. The mixture for the first layer can be used in a more liquid state than for all subsequent layers. In total, 3-4 layers can be applied.

Plastering the stove is used by many of their owners, because it is much easier than lining

Coloring

For coloring, you can purchase various paints and whitewash. Moreover, the surface to be painted can be either brick or plastered. Whitewashing is most often used chalk or lime. So that the layers do not crumble in the future, masters of the furnace business are advised to add ordinary salt to the whitewash. This coloring option is suitable for adherents of the use of environmentally friendly materials.

There are also heat resistant chemical compositions, which you can use to paint the oven yourself: alkyd, silicate, silicon.

The color for painting the furnace device can be selected depending on the style of the room

stone finish

Furnace finish

The firebox is finished with the same materials as the stove itself. The main condition when choosing materials is safety, fire resistance, reliability, strength. When designing a firebox, special attention should be paid to the rules fire safety, because this part is most directly connected with fire.

It is very important to leave a gap between the firebox and the stove lining. This is necessary for the free circulation of air, which affects the efficiency of its work as a whole. It is undesirable to fill this gap with sand or heat-insulating material. It will become a reliable obstacle to the deformation of the facing material. If there is a gap, then the finishing material will not crack, voids and other negative aspects will not appear in it.

When using drywall constructions, leaving a gap will become an additional means of preventing fire. 10 centimeters is the smallest gap that must be left between the firebox and the stove for safety reasons.

Decorating the stove in the house

The techniques that craftsmen can use for decoration are very diverse:

• painting;
• decoupage;
• use of stencils-stamps;
• decoration with decorative stone.

Various fragments of decorating elements introduced in certain places of the stove can make this heating device unique and memorable.

Photo gallery: successful examples of do-it-yourself oven decor

Decorative rock looks great on oven walls Furnace decor using different techniques and materials looks unusual and spectacular Fragments of the pattern can be applied using paper napkins and glue The use of shelves to decorate a wall-mounted device is not only beautiful, but also functional. To decorate the stove, you can use ready-made stamps or create your own. Painted decor can be created by craftsmen with artistic skills Simple drawings will significantly improve the visual perception of the oven You can add the intricacy of the oven using stencil technology - it can be facilitated by the use of a roller with a printed pattern Real masterpieces in decoration will be able to create masters of furnace business

Furnace lining is an interesting and exciting process. Using imagination and applying your skills, you can create samples of unique heating devices. The stove, which looks like an orphan and miserable means of heating a room, is becoming a thing of the past. Currently, this device is becoming a full-fledged subject of any interior and, like all other elements of the interior, needs decoration.

A country cottage, a private house, a summer residence will only benefit from the installation of a beautiful stove or fireplace. And what can we say about how the room will be transformed from the lining of the old stove. Of course, today the stove plays a more decorative role in the interior of the room than a functional one, but the idea of ​​​​a hearth, embodied in modern house will never lose relevance.

Facing the furnace, in the language of professionals, is the application of a finishing coating on the design of the heater. The most popular solution is to finish the stove with tiles. This service is provided by master bakers. But there are no prerequisites for not doing the lining of the furnace with your own hands. Especially when there is step-by-step instruction with a detailed description, photos, drawings and diagrams that are understandable even to a beginner.

How to tile the oven with tiles correctly and durable

The order of work is carried out in a certain sequence, do not neglect the intermediate steps.

1. Features of tiling different types of stoves

First of all, not all stoves are suitable for cladding, and some types will have to be tinkered with. There are three types of ovens:

Metal ovens

When tiling metal surface you need to understand that metal and tile have different coefficients of thermal expansion. Thus, the stove and the tiles on it will heat up and cool down at different speeds. This will invariably lead to delamination. decorative tiles or even cracking. But, in this case, facing a metal furnace with tiles is possible. Professionals recommend the device of a movable ligament between the tile and the surface of the oven on kleimers, this technology will help to avoid cracking;

Double-circuit heating stoves made of bricks

Ideal if you plan to tile a brick oven. This is due to the fact that the furnace has two circuits: internal (furnace and vaults) and external. The outer circuit, which is in contact with the cladding, heats up much less than the inner one, and therefore facing tiles keeps on such an oven best of all. By the way, the absence of local overheating can be considered an additional advantage of this furnace design. That allows you to clad a fireplace or stove with one material and using one type of mortar for its fastening;

Single-circuit brick ovens

Often they are installed in baths, for which the stoves are called "bath stoves". The most problematic option. After all, there is only one circuit here, which means that the surface warms up more than in a double-circuit furnace. The craftsmen who perform the lining of a single-circuit furnace must have some experience in order to choose the right tile for lining and the mortar that will hold it. Areas of local overheating deserve special attention.

Among other things, the stove installed in the bath is exposed to changes in temperature and humidity. Facing a sauna stove with tiles requires a more careful selection of materials. For it, it is recommended to use porcelain stoneware, as the least porous material that can withstand the highest temperatures. It is also possible to line the stove with terracotta tiles, but its thickness must be at least 8 mm, and the distance between adjacent tiles must be at least 10 mm.

Note. Knowing what type of oven does not yet make it possible to get started. It is also necessary to take into account what type of fuel the furnace is heated. Different kinds Fuels have different combustion temperatures. For example, when using solid fuel cladding material must withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, wood (firewood) will expand the choice of facing tiles. burns at temperatures up to 800 degrees.

2. Measurement of the furnace and calculation of tiles

After the dimensions of the furnace have been measured, the type of material has been determined, the exact dimensions of one tile, the presence of decorative elements and their parameters have been clarified, you can begin to calculate how many tiles are needed to cover the stove.

To do this, it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​​​the furnace, including vertical and horizontal surfaces. It should be remembered that laying tiles on the stove provides for an inter-joint gap (the distance between the tiles), which ranges from 2 to 10 mm. This area must be subtracted.

Note. The more complex the tile laying pattern, the more material is used for trimming. However, the smaller the tile, the less material goes to waste.

Users are advised to make an insurance stock in the amount of 5% of the amount received. After all, the tile can fall off or burst during the operation of the furnace. Moreover, if there are several types decorative elements, then you need to have at least two pieces of each of them. This increases the cost of tiling the stove, but eliminates the thought of how to replace the missing cladding element.

Note. Especially accurate calculation must be carried out for.

Methods for laying tiles on the stove

The second aspect that affects the volume of materials purchased is the way the tiles are laid when lining the stove (rice).

in straight rows (seam to seam, seam to seam) you can lay square or rectangular tiles. The application of this method is possible only when the tiles have the same geometric dimensions. It is suitable for laying out panels or patterns on the surface of the oven. In this case, it is desirable that the layout begin and end with whole tiles. It is this nuance that will not allow the method to take a leading position;

A variety of facing tiles allows you to create your own ways of laying it, combining materials and creating unique patterns.

3. The choice of tiles and tools for lining the stove

A detailed explanation of how to tile a stove is possible only when there is an understanding of what material is in question.

For a long time, tiles remained the most accessible for cladding. Many today consider it as a full-fledged alternative. But, despite the cheapness of the material, lining the stove with tiles is fraught with pitfalls. After all, it must satisfy certain conditions (refractory, heat-resistant, heat-resistant).

Facing the furnace with ceramic tiles is possible if the material meets the requirements:

• shape and size. Masters say that the smaller the tile, the less likely it is to peel and crack. For example, tiles with a size of 100x100 are more mobile due to seams than tiles with larger sizes. The form leaves an imprint on the way of laying. The presence of a pattern that needs to be selected also complicates the calculation and calculation;

• matching shades of tiles;

• technical properties: strength, fire resistance, fine porosity of the structure, indicative of moisture absorption, coefficient of thermal expansion, resistance to mechanical damage;

• environmental safety, confirmed by a certificate.

Today, among the materials that meet the listed conditions, we can distinguish:

• terracotta tiles (terracotta);
• majolica;
• clinker tiles;
• porcelain tile.

Advice. A beautiful layout of tiles will provide the use of friezes, borders, inserts, panels.

In addition to tiles, for facing you need:

1. crosses or patterns. To provide a seam with a thickness of 10 mm. users advise using pieces of plasterboard ceiling. Their advantage is easy dismantling;
2. heat-resistant grout;
3. metal mounting mesh;
4. bierbach hardware or nails / self-tapping screws and washers;
5. rubber mallet;
6. a chisel or perforator to remove the old coating from the tile;
7. putty knife. There are three types to be prepared. Conventional spatula for removing the coating and applying a leveling layer of putty or glue. Serrated - for applying mortar to the tile. As well as a special spatula for jointing (grouting).
8. tile cutter. Allows to minimize material consumption from chips on the front surface;
9. level and plumb;
10. soap solution;
11. adhesive solution;
12. primer.

Adhesive and mortar for oven tiles

The quality of adhesion of the tile and the surface of the furnace depends on which mortar is placed on the stove. In view of the purpose, the adhesive solution must be heat-resistant, refractory, heat-resistant.

Clay mortar for the furnace

How to cook: clay, sand and water are kneaded in certain proportions, which depend on the type of clay:

• for oily clay, the ratio will be 1 part clay, 4 parts sand, 1 part water. The fat content of clay can be determined in a laboratory or in a folk way - sand is not felt in it, and a ball rolled from it cracks heavily when it dries;
• for normal - 1:3:1
• for skinny - 1:2.5:1

Cement mortar for kiln

How to prepare: cement, sand are mixed in a ratio of 1: 3 and brought to the desired consistency with water. In this case, the cement must be grade M 400 or higher. To improve the properties of the solution, it is recommended to add PVA, asbestos to it. The stove-makers are advised to add 1 kg of salt. on a bucket of mixture;

Dry mix mortar or special adhesives (cement, dispersion, epoxy)

They are ready-to-use mixtures intended for a certain type of tile. The good thing is that the proportions in them are carefully calibrated, and in addition, various plasticizers are added that improve the properties of the adhesive solution. Adhesives such as SCANMIX Skanfixsuper (Finland), Plitonit-SuperKamin (Russia-Germany) have proved themselves well. Of the budget options: SILTEK T-84 (Ukraine), Pechnik (Belarus) and Plitonit W (Russia).

Ready-made adhesive solution - adhesive mastic

When choosing this type of glue, you need to pay attention to the marking. It should be intended for lining stoves and fireplaces. Good feedback users on NEOMID SUPERCONTACT (Russia), Terracotta (Russia), Parade-77 (Belarus). But, in general, the quality of adhesion of the mastic to the surface leaves much to be desired.

In any case, the solution must meet the requirements for heat resistance and coefficient of thermal expansion. Ideally, laying tiles on the stove should be done in the same mortar as leveling its surface.

All professionals and users agree that saving on materials is not worth it.

4. Laying tiles - drawing, cutting

Laying tiles on the stove is carried out on the basis of a prepared drawing or sketch. Professionals in this case provide a specification on the basis of which the material is purchased. For beginners, a visual image and the actual layout of the desired composition will greatly facilitate the process of calculating, buying and styling.

Note. The layout is made for all walls of the furnace, taking into account the size of the seams.

The drawing of the furnace with facing material has the form shown in the figure.

3D visualization will help evaluate the appearance of the future cladding.

Laying tiles - simplifies the installation process, as it allows you to lay the tiles on the stove in the exact sequence. In addition, it allows you to select tiles according to the pattern, shape, shade. The size of the tile is adjusted before laying, taking into account the seams. For trimming, products with chips and defects are used.

Note. To avoid laying tiles with small trimmings, increasing the distance between the seams will help.

Advice. The most massive (large) tile is laid on the lower rows. Also on the bottom is a tile of greater thickness. Otherwise, do flat surface will be impossible.

The finished oven after lining will look like this

5. Preparing the oven for tiling

High-quality installation and long life of the furnace lining is possible only when laying tiles on a prepared base.

The need for cladding can be caused by two reasons, and the scope of work for each will be different. However, the overall goal is the same - to give the furnace the correct geometric shapes, in which all surfaces are even, and the angles correspond to 90 °.

Note. Besides the fact that leveling increases the speed of work, it allows you to reduce the consumption of expensive adhesive for laying tiles on the stove.

Option 1: lining a new (freshly built) furnace

Even a structure erected in accordance with all building codes will need preparation. In this case, it comes down to the fact that the surface of the base is cleaned of dust, primed, equipped with a grid and markings. These activities will be discussed in more detail below.

Note. It is possible to start lining a new furnace only after a month of operation. During this time, it will shrink and show hidden defects.

Option 2: lining an old (operating) stove

This option is much more complicated than the previous one, since it involves the implementation of a larger number of rough work. Therefore, consider the sequence in more detail.

5.1 Dismantling the old coating

Furnaces installed in the house, as a rule, already have some kind of lining. Often this is plastering followed by whitewashing or tiling. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation of a new coating, it is necessary to remove the old one.

Dismantling (removal) of plaster from the surface of the furnace

Plaster does not last long on a hot oven. From high temperature, cracks appear on it or the surface layer moves away from the base. In any case, before proceeding with the lining, you need to get rid of the decorative coating (remove, clean).

How to remove old plaster from the stove

In practice, two methods are used to remove plaster from the surface:

Force method. It is used if most of the plaster adheres well to the walls of the furnace. Its use involves knocking down plaster with a perforator percussion nozzle. This method is fast, but the result is a lot of dust and there is a possibility of damage to the brickwork.

The use of a grinder can simplify the work. Using a diamond disc, cuts are made on the surface of the furnace. Their depth should be equal to the thickness of the plaster layer. There is nothing critical if the disk goes 10-15 mm into the thickness of the masonry. Further, the removal of the plaster continues with a perforator, hammer or chisel. If removal is still difficult, the craftsmen advise heating the area with a building hair dryer and continuing to work.

Note. Periodically wetting the surface with water will prevent or reduce the amount of dust.

gradual cleaning. The method is slower and involves impregnating the plaster with water and then scraping it off with a spatula.

Dismantling (removal) of paint from the surface of the furnace

Painting a stove is an easy and inexpensive way to decorate a stove. But, the painted surface under the influence of temperature will peel off and can harm human health (release of harmful substances).

How to remove old paint from a brick oven

Removing paint from a brick surface is not so easy. A thin layer is removed with a metal brush. A good help for cleaning paint is the use of a building hair dryer. A thicker layer sometimes leaves on its own, and where this did not happen and the adhesion to the surface is strong, notches should be made, for example, with a hatchet.

Note. Special paint stripping solutions have a pungent odor that takes a long time to disappear, and are also expensive, so users are not advised to use them.

Dismantling (removal) of old tiles from the stove

If the tiles are peeled off or you want to renew the stove lining, it becomes necessary to knock the tiles off the stove.

How to remove old tiles from the surface of the furnace

It is recommended to carry out dismantling work from top to bottom. After removing the last row, go down to the next one. The tile is removed using a chisel that catches on the edge of the tile. In this way, the tile is removed without damage. If such a maneuver fails, the tile must be broken. Broken tiles are easier to remove.

Don't be surprised if a brick breaks off when you remove a tile. In any case, cleaning a fireplace or stove does not end with the removal of the old coating.

Attention! The removal of the old tiles is carried out strictly in goggles, because. shatters during operation a large number of sharp fragments.

5.2 Cleaning the surface of the oven walls

After removing the topcoat, the entire surface of the stove must be thoroughly cleaned of the smallest residues of the solution. Ideal cleaning of brick walls is carried out by using a metal brush.

5.3 Deepening joints between bricks

In order for subsequent layers of the mortar to better adhere to the base, care must be taken to remove the mortar and increase the depth of the brickwork joints. To do this, with the help of a chisel, grinder or spatula, the solution is removed from the inter-seam spaces. Depth of cleaning 5-10 mm.

Upon completion of the work, the surface is once again cleaned of dust and residues of the solution with a brush.

5.4 Leveling the oven walls for tiles

To prevent the tiles from peeling off the base, a metal mesh must be installed on the surface of the furnace.

For work, you will need a mounting grid with cells of 50x50 mm and a wire diameter of up to 1 mm. To fix the mesh, you can use a ceiling dowel with a hat (beerbach).

Or you can just put washers or pieces of galvanizing on the nails. The main thing is that the hat securely holds the net. Hardware is installed only in the seams. At the same time, the nail is hammered, and a hole needs to be drilled under the self-tapping screw. Grid fastening step 500 mm.

The mesh on the surface is installed with tension. Next, the surface of the walls is leveled with plaster. To do this, you can use glue, on which the facing tiles will be mounted or a special solution (clay, cement, sand) in a ratio of 3: 1: 0.2 parts.

If the surface that needs leveling has depressions up to 10 mm, then the mortar must be applied in two approaches. The maximum allowable layer thickness is specified by the manufacturer. In practice, it is better not to make a layer thicker than 5 mm, this increases the time and reduces the uniformity of its solidification. In this case, the second layer is applied only after the first has completely dried.

Advice. Starting to level the walls, the craftsmen advise heating the stove. The solution must be applied at a surface temperature of 30-35°C.

An alternative to a wall alignment grid:

• installation of hardware with hats and pulling ordinary wire between them;

• the use of stretched burlap, previously aged in a clay solution. When laying burlap, it is important to avoid wrinkles and air pockets.

Note. If the surface of the stove is even, you can eliminate the stage of plastering, and lay the tiles directly on top of the metal mesh.

5.5 Priming the oven walls

A heat-resistant primer applied with a brush will improve the adhesion of the mortar to the surface. When choosing a primer for stoves and fireplaces, it is better to give preference to deep-penetrating compositions. When the primer is completely dry, you can pre-mark the surface.

Advice. You can reduce the consumption of the primer without changing the quality of the application if you first walk along the surface of the wall with a slightly damp sponge.

5.6 Pre-marking before laying tiles

The surface on which the markup is applied is considered to be fully prepared for facing. It involves the installation of beacons that allow you to navigate when performing cladding work.

Marking is applied using a plumb line and level. It is convenient to designate a horizontal line using a cord. A more technological approach is the use of a laser level.

You should be aware that even a perfectly prepared surface may not save the oven from cracking. Cracks may be caused by:

• excessive overheating;

• incorrectly executed bunch of bricks during the construction of the furnace;

• different thickness of the interbrick seam.

High-quality preparation of the base of the furnace surface will avoid its deformation and firmly hold the correctly laid facing tiles.

5.7 Preparing the adhesive

The mortar for laying tiles is prepared in small portions in 10-15 minutes. before starting work. Moreover, master stove-makers do not use any devices for kneading, the work is done by hand.

6. Facing the oven with tiles with your own hands

The technology of tiling furnaces with tiles provides for the choice of laying method, and the progress of the work will also differ accordingly. At the same time, in any case, laying is carried out from the bottom up and on a heated oven (at least up to 30 °).

6.1 Furnace lining with tiles in straight rows or offset

Installing the first row. Furnace lining with clinker, terracotta tiles or porcelain stoneware starts from the corner of the furnace. First, the corner elements are installed.

It is worth noting that if the cladding work is carried out before the floor is laid, a gap must be left. In this case, the support for the first row will not be the floor, but a rail nailed to the surface of the furnace. The support rail must only be attached to the oven, as the floor may deviate from the horizontal. To display the horizontal, you need to mark the upper border of the first row and lay the tiles with cutting from the side of the floor. With this approach, subsequent rows will be laid out in accordance with the level.

Note. A technological gap of 5-10 mm is left between the floor and the tile. Its presence will compensate for the expansion of the material when heated.

Please note that the facing of the stove with majolica starts from the corner and continues along the laying. If a whole strip hits the corner, great. If trimming is required, then work must begin from the second row. Pieces of tiles are installed last. It looks more beautiful if the whole tiles are located in the corners, and the cut fragments are hidden at the junction with the wall.

How to apply adhesive to tiles

The adhesive composition is applied in two ways:

• with a notched trowel. This method is suitable for flat surfaces. Then the glue spreads evenly on the surface of the tile and air pockets are eliminated;

Note. Air pockets or bags are dangerous because the air in them heats up faster than the tile or adhesive and expands. As a result, peeling of the tile is possible.

• with the help of a master. The method is used when the surface has deviations along the plane. In this case, the adhesive is applied to the corner of the tile, which is pressed against the surface in a circular motion. Glue fills all the bumps, and its excess goes beyond the edges of the tile. If you're having trouble getting the tile back in place, you can lightly hit it with a rubber mallet.

The thickness of the adhesive application is indicated by the manufacturer and is 2-7 mm. To even out the unevenness, it is allowed to apply glue up to 10 mm thick, however, after laying the tiles, work must be stopped so that the glue can dry evenly.

1. Before applying glue to porcelain stoneware, it must be wetted. To do this, brush over the surface with a brush or moisten in water. In no case should the tile be completely immersed in water.
2. The heavier the tile, the thicker the adhesive layer should be and the greater the distance between adjacent tiles.
3. It is possible to level the tile on the surface within 10-15 minutes. after laying. If you didn’t have time in time, you need to remove the tile, clean it and the surface from glue, and only then continue work.

The second row is laid after the first is completely laid. Work also starts from the corner. Crosses, templates or pieces of other materials that have the same thickness will help to ensure an even gap between the tiles.

Joint width between tiles (thickness)

At the seams between rows of tiles, you need to stop separately. The width of the joint depends on the type of tile, its thickness and weight. And their absence leads to the fact that the tile has nowhere to expand and it bursts. In order for the grout mixture to lay beautifully in the future, the seams, during the laying of the tiles, must not be completely filled, and the excess mixture should be removed with a spatula.

Masters focus on the fact that laying more than three rows in one approach is not worth it. In order for the glue to grab well, it is better to take a break for several hours. The drying time depends on the type of adhesive and manufacturer's recommendations.

In addition, after laying each row of tiles, the horizontal is checked. When a defect is found, there is time to fix it.

6.2 Tiling the stove diagonally

With this laying method, the first row is most often laid straight. This will align the cladding with the floor. Further, the calculation is carried out in one of the following ways:

• triangles are laid out, wide side down. The upper corners of the tile serve as a guide when checking the level;

• laying goes diagonally, then the mooring cord (marking) is pulled at an angle of 45 °.

The penultimate row is similar to the second. The last - the first, which is also usually laid out in a straight line.

Note. In the process of facing, a certain area in front of the stove is often laid out with tiles. This technique allows you to protect the floor covering from sparks and deformation from the heat of the furnace from below.

Facing work ends with cleaning the seams (deepening for better grouting) and washing the lined surface of the furnace. After the time required for the adhesive to fully harden, you can start grouting.

Advice. It is better to stop work for 5-7 days. During this period, the risk of tiles shifting is minimized.

7. Jointing of tile joints (grouting)

Grouting of joints between tiles is carried out with a special mixture or clay-sand mortar with the addition of coloring pigments. The work is done with a rubber spatula. It is suitable for tiles, because. allows you to fill small seams. Or with a construction gun, if the stove was lined with porcelain stoneware, terracotta or clinker tiles.

Types of grouts for tiles and their comparative analysis are presented in the table (analysis of grouts for clinker tiles)

After applying the grout, the surface is wiped with a damp sponge. This technique will remove the remnants of the mixture. Be careful not to apply too much pressure to the sponge, otherwise the seam may be damaged.

Advice. Users suggest hand forming a concave seam. It can be done with your fingers (with a sufficient seam width) or with improvised means, for example, a flexible tube or a toothbrush handle.

The final cleaning of the seam on tiles or majolica is carried out after the grout has dried (after 1-2 hours). Visually, this can be seen by the fact that the tile will become lighter. Cleaning is carried out with a flannel cloth moistened (soaked) in a solution of a cement-trowel film remover.

The oven tiling process is complete. Now it remains to wait 3-4 weeks before trying the stove in operation.

Furnace cladding with terracotta tiles - video

Conclusion

Thus, a little diligence and good instructions for laying tiles on the stove with your own hands will help to achieve the desired result.

In houses whose heating depends entirely or to some extent on the use of solid fuels burned in a stove, the unsightly appearance of the heating structure often spoils the beauty of the interior of the room. Whatever types of plaster are used to give an aesthetic appearance to walls that are subjected to constant thermal stress, sooner or later cracks appear in the coating, which is why the walls are constantly in need of cosmetic repairs.

Many consider tiling a stove or fireplace a good way out of this situation. Other heat-resistant lining materials can also be used, such as natural stove lining.

What is useful for tiling a stove wall, and how to do it without high costs?

Every day, in economic terms, life is becoming more and more difficult, so not everyone can afford to cover the walls of the heating block with clinker tiles, majolica or tiles. In most cases, a simple layman is inclined to use ordinary ceramic tiles for this task, the installation of which does not require special building skills or (as in the case of tiles) artistic perception, and its price is not as “biting” as the cost of the facing materials listed above. In any case, the costs will be justified, because finishing the furnace with ceramic tiles will allow:

1. Ennoble those parts of the house that are associated with heating device.
2. Spend less effort cleaning indoors, as tiles are much easier to clean from dust than plaster.
3. Reduce the risk of dangerous gases entering living rooms from the furnace, which can seep through cracks.
4. To make the heat exchange process more rational.

Of course, by hiring professionals to do the work, you can save yourself from unnecessary worries, but in this case it is unlikely that you will be able to avoid big waste, since workers will have to pay almost the same amount as was paid for building materials. On the other hand, professionalism is not always conscientiousness. Therefore, if you are eager to acquire construction skills, then you can do without the help of specialists. This has certain advantages, how to tile a stove with your own hands sometimes more reliable than getting the same effect and paying twice as much.

Preparatory measures before starting the installation of tiles

Before you go to the hardware store to purchase everything you need for cladding, you need to measure the surface area that will be converted and calculate how many tiles, mortar and other necessary materials will be needed to implement your plan. At the same time, it is worth considering the possible unevenness of the walls of the heating structure (especially in old houses), which requires a greater consumption of the mixture in order to level the surface before starting the installation of tiles. Due to the fact that oven walls are exposed to high temperatures, it is better not to use ordinary tile adhesive, but to purchase a heat-resistant adhesive mixture.

When mixing mounting adhesive, you can use a conventional electric drill with a mixing nozzle, but it is better to use a special construction mixer so as not to spoil the drill gearbox.

You can continue the implementation of the plan after the substance of the leveling layer is completely dry.

Rules for the installation of facing elements on the stove wall

According to the technology, it is better to start gluing tiles on vertical surfaces from the bottom, and it is necessary to lay out the first row and allow the adhesive mixture to harden. This will allow you to set guides along which you can navigate during installation. next rows. Therefore, when installing the first row of facing elements, you need to be especially careful. The tile installation process is carried out in the following order:

A sufficient layer of adhesive is applied to the wrong side of the tile with a conventional spatula.

The cladding element is pressed against the base surface, first by the lower part, and then by the upper part, after which it is set to the desired position with light blows.

When installing each tile, it is imperative to check the correctness of its spatial arrangement with a small level bar.

As the row is filled with facing elements, it is necessary to periodically make sure that you have not deviated from the specified parameters, using a longer level for this.

But now a long level will also be needed to check the vertical plane being created, which is desirable to do during the installation of each of its next elements.

The furnace wall usually has certain places in its structure that should not be covered with tile covering, for example, such as firebox and blower doors, well windows for extracting accumulated soot, and so on. In order to beautifully decorate such areas, when installing tiles on the wall of the furnace, it is necessary to change the format of the ceramic tile, which involves the removal of any of its fragments and, quite often, figured ones. The tile is a rather fragile material, so if the cut line is not straight, but has any angles or turns, then you should use the grinder to form a non-standard element, after which it is mounted on the wall in the prepared space.

It is also often necessary to cut tiles at the end of a row, as it is rare to have an even amount of tiles on the wall. Therefore, you need to measure the width of the missing piece with a tape measure, given the size of the seam.

After that, you need to make an insert right size, separating the excess part from the whole tile with a tile cutter.

The finished part should be installed in its place using the same adhesive.

As can be seen in the photographs above, in order to achieve the greatest possible symmetry when installing the elements of the tile covering, it is important to use restrictive crosses that are inserted into the seams between the tiles, two on each side.

This will ensure the uniformity of the indent between the installed elements, and keep them in this position until the mounting mixture hardens. When the surface of the stove wall is completely tiled, it will be necessary to wait a day or two so that the hydration of the cement, which is part of the installation mixture, occurs sufficiently, when it will no longer be necessary to be afraid that the stationarity of the elements of the tile coating will be violated.

Filling the joints with a special mixture

The final stage of facing the heating unit is grouting. For this construction operation, a special composition is used, which, when solidified, has good resistance to aggressive substances, such as water or household detergents. After pouring a certain amount of powder into water, it should be manually mixed to the desired consistency.

With a rubber spatula ready mix they are pushed into the space between the tiles (before that, the crosses must be removed), after which, having drawn the corner of the tool along the seam, they give it a beautiful shape, distributing the working mass evenly.

To places like windows furnace wells, you need to pay special attention, beautifully framing them with a grout mixture.

After wiping all the seams, you should wait until the substance filling them becomes solid, after which it remains only to remove its remnants from the tile with a rag and enjoy a new beautiful view of your heating structure.

As you can see from the above description of the workflow, it is not difficult to tile the furnace yourself with ceramic tiles. It is only important to strictly adhere to the technological sequence. Of course, doing such work for the first time, you should not expect ideal results. Still, you don’t need to worry too much about something that didn’t work out the way you would like, because, most likely, only you see these shortcomings, and for those around you, your heating structure seems very elegant in appearance.

Perhaps one of your acquaintances will even ask you to help with repairs in his house, and over time, a new specialty will be a good help, providing you with an additional source of income.

If the stove is unevenly folded and poor-quality brick was used for masonry, then it does not look very nice. This point can be easily corrected by tiling the stove. In this lesson, we will consider 2 options: laying terracotta tiles on heat-resistant glue and mastic, as well as finishing with ordinary tiles without glue.

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Cladding with terracotta tiles

Training

Laying

Grouting

• A day after laying the stove with tiles, you can start grouting. To fill them, we will use a construction gun and Terracotta heat-resistant grout (suitable for surfaces up to 200 degrees). Stir the dry mixture with water to the consistency of thick sour cream and fill it into the tube of the gun. The nose of the gun nozzle is cut off at an angle of 60 degrees to make a hole of 6-8 mm.
• We insert the nozzle into the seam and evenly fill them to the level of the tile. This work must be carried out very carefully so as not to stain the front surface. If this happens, then in no case should you try to erase it, as you will simply smear the mixture over the surface and make it even worse. Wait 2 hours and use a knife to peel off the hardened grout.
• After 1.5-2 hours after applying the grout, you can start grouting. To do this, remove excess and unevenness from the hardened mixture with a flat screwdriver 7-8 mm wide. You can also use a stiff wire ring for this.

Fixing tiles without glue

Another interesting option, which you can do with your own hands, even without experience in tiling - overlay the oven with tiles without glue. Fastening is done on homemade galvanized corners. This is a difficult and painstaking work, but the costs will be minimal.

You will need:

• Any ceramic tile, in this example the size 10x10 cm is used. It is sold in 30x20 cm modules, so you will need to separate them yourself.
• Galvanized sheet, thickness 0.5 mm.
• Aluminum corner 20*20, thickness 2 mm.
• Aluminum strip 20 mm, usually sold in 3 meters.

We make corners for fastening

The longest and most difficult work is to make corners with your own hands. They will have a J-shape to fix the tiles on top and bottom, as in a frame.

Tile fixing