Uneven seams between tiles what to do. How to seal the seams between the panels on the ceiling: choose how to seal the seams between the panels, the work process

After surgery, a scar remains on the body - a section of connective tissue. Existing methods of getting rid of unsightly marks on the skin are diverse. Therefore, the question of how to remove the scar after surgery should be preceded brief digression in the typology of scars. The reasons for differences in the effectiveness of the same agents are due to different characteristics of postoperative skin lesions.

How are different types of scars treated?

Many methods are available to specialists in medical and cosmetic clinics. To choose a method for removing scars after surgery, first of all, information about the type of damage is needed. Be sure to diagnose the condition of the patient's skin, the whole body.

Features of scar correction

How to remove scars on the stomach?

Minimally invasive surgery has almost eliminated side effects surgical interventions in the form of long and wide scars. Traces of punctures with a gentle technique almost do not remain. If the scars after laparoscopy are properly cared for from the very beginning, then the cosmetic effect will be excellent. Much depends on where the punctures will be made. Usually, during laparoscopy, the doctor makes 3-4 small holes (about 1 cm or less):

• 1 - below the navel for inserting a mini-video camera into the abdominal cavity.
• 2-4 - in the lower abdomen for the introduction of microsurgical instruments.

Puncture care after laparoscopy is carried out in two stages and includes measures aimed at preventing scarring:

1. Applications with a substance that stimulates healing (Curiosin gel).
2. Lubrication with a preparation that softens scar tissue (Kontraktubeks gel).

Removal of a scar on the abdomen after surgery

Video about keloid scars after surgery

Cream Cicatrix Spanish company Catalysis (test results)

The advantage of topical medications is a small number of contraindications compared to peels, laser resurfacing, and surgical removal of scars.

Visible results of the application of Cicatrix regenerating cream ("Cicatrix") of the Spanish company Catalysis appear after 3 weeks (on fresh scars). In 2007–2010, medical centers in Western Europe and Russia evaluated the effectiveness of the use of Cicatrix cream in a group of patients with fresh scars. Here are the results of the study published by the Testing Laboratory Center of the Central Design Bureau of the Russian Academy of Sciences.

Data from the testing laboratory of special dermatological products of the Central Clinical Hospital of the Russian Academy of Sciences

The researchers attributed the positive results of using Cicatrix cream to a synergistic effect by the interaction of the components:

1. Asiatic and madecassonic acids in the extract of Centella asiatica stimulate the activity of fibroblasts, improve microcirculation.
2. Pine extract (Pinus sylvestris) has antioxidant properties far superior to vitamins E and C. Prevents the destruction of collagen.
3. The unique lipid complex of ceramides and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid retain moisture.

According to the results of the study of Cicatrix cream, 84% of patients showed an acceleration of the regeneration process after surgical skin injuries.

In contact with

Sometimes cleaning and washing the joints between tiles simply cannot save the day. So for example, in some parts of my bathroom (mostly right next to the tub), the grout in some places is completely gone. The water that gets into the inter-tile seams (and my child loves to splash it very much :) just washed out the entire grout solution.

It makes sense to re-groove the seams if there is at least 2 millimeters between the tiles, otherwise the grout will not be able to fix. If you just want to re-stitch the seams, just buy a special seam tool from the hardware store. There are even special solutions to soften the seams.

The grout dries very quickly. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. Dry grout is easy to dissolve plain water. In order for the grout to lay down better and not have time to dry in the process, the solution should turn out to be even slightly liquid.

We rub it with a special tool. If the grout contains cement, it is recommended to use a respirator. We rub the grout at an angle of 30-45 degrees. Do not just cover the joints with grout, but try to rub it into the joints so that the joints are completely filled with grout.

After applying the grout, wait the required amount of time (for KIILTO 20-30 minutes), after which the tile itself must be cleaned of the grout. Since I used a small spatula to apply the grout, I did not need to dry remove the grout.

To wash the tile itself from grout residues, walk over its entire surface with a well-wrung sponge.

Align and smooth the seams with jointing, a wooden stick with a sharpened end, or the end of a toothbrush. A special stick is included with KIILTO grout. Then align the seam along the edges with a sponge. Don't forget to rinse your sponge.

In order for the tiles on the floor to prevent cracking and last longer on top of the zatika, it is recommended to cover the top with an additional agent for protecting the seams, for example, like this:

seam protector Sea, KIILTO

In this article, we will consider a method for leveling the ceiling with plaster and gypsum mixtures. It is optimal for old apartments with low and uneven ceilings, as it practically does not “remove” heights in comparison with suspension systems.

Foundation preparation

Preparing the base is perhaps the dirtiest and dustiest part of the job when leveling the ceiling with plaster or gypsum mixtures. Where to start work, you ask, and we will answer you - first of all, you need to completely empty the premises. If it is impossible to do this, cover all things with plastic wrap and seal them tightly with adhesive tape, because dust and debris cannot be avoided in any way.

To start, we need:

• Sharp spatula;
• Bucket;
• Washcloth;
• Respirator.

So, let's start repairing our ceiling:

Removing old paint

1. First, no matter how silly it may sound, it is worth starting with destruction. Namely, to remove traces of the last repairs accumulated over the years (read). Remove all layers of whitewash, water-based and other types of paint from the ceiling with a spatula. To do this, you just need to tear off mechanically.

Tip: Alternatively, you can attach to a spatula long handle or a stick, while you will have the opportunity to work with two hands, which will greatly facilitate the task.

• To facilitate the task, you can use the so-called "wet method". First dampen the ceiling with water using a roller, brush or spray bottle. Let it soak well and peel it off without waiting for it to dry.

Tip: When peeling off layers of whitewash and plaster, the spatula should be sharp, so it is recommended to sharpen it from time to time.

There are several methods proven over the years that can greatly facilitate our task.:

• Hot water can be used to soften old whitewash.
• Water-based paint will be much easier to remove using aqueous solution iodine. To do this, dissolve one vial per bucket (about 10 liters) and saturate the ceiling with this mixture using a roller or brush.
• Paints such as enamels or water-dispersion paints are not washed off with water. They have to be removed only mechanically (read on). You can also make your work easier by using a “grinder” or a drill with a wire nozzle, however, while the amount of dust increases to impossibility.
  There are many products on the market for washing off such paints. They are applied to the surface and after 15-20 minutes are removed with a spatula along with the paint.

Removing plaster

1. The next step is to check the plaster for integrity. All places where the plaster layer staggers or falls off must be removed with a spatula to the ground. Particular attention should be paid to the seams between the panels and tap them with a hammer for reliability.. Indeed, over time, all houses shrink, their panel ceiling “walks” a little and shifts, as a result of which the mortar at the joints begins to fall off. Tap the seams between the floor panels and, if necessary, remove the mortar

Sealing of interpanel seams

1. Now you can proceed directly to the repair of the ceiling. The first step before leveling the ceiling is to seal the seams between the panels.

It's done like this:

• The seam between the panels is filled with mounting foam and left until completely solidified.
• All seams should be treated with a primer for high-quality adhesion of the solution to the concrete surface of the panels.
• Seal the seam between the panels with a "Rotband".
• A sickle mesh is glued to the "Rotband".
• Level the putty at the level of the panels and smooth it. Method for sealing interpanel seams (rusts)

It should be noted that the use of sickle for large and uneven seams does not exclude the appearance of cracks in the future (see). In this case, it would be better to use a plaster fiberglass mesh, gluing it in layers.

Getting ready to level up

1. Now we need to measure the horizontal of the ceiling and set the beacons. But if you don't care about how horizontal your ceiling is, and you just want to remove the differences between the panels, you can skip this step. Without the installation of beacons (when leveling only along the plane), the layer thickness is significantly reduced, which means that less materials will be consumed. True, most people, for some reason of their own, or because of pedantry, cannot come to terms with the idea that their ceiling will be sloping.

In this case, there are several options:

• With a large deviation from the horizontal, only suspended or stretch ceilings can save.
• If the difference is within 5 centimeters, you can use plaster by installing beacons.

Before installing beacons, it is required to determine the lowest point of the ceiling:

• Using a tape measure, measure the distance from floor to ceiling at all corners of the room. The smallest distance will be the lowest point of the ceiling.
• Using a laser level or hydro level, it is necessary to mark the height of this point along the perimeter of the room. It will be easier to do this if you put marks only in the corners and use a chopping cord. To do this, stretch the cord between the marks and, slightly pulling it away from the wall, release it - you get a clear and even line.
• Every 60-80 centimeters, screw self-tapping screws into a line on two opposite walls. Stretch the construction line through the room and, pulling it, tie it to the caps of the self-tapping screws. Such a landmark will greatly simplify the task of installing beacons for us.
• Next, we glue the profile of the lighthouse to the ceiling using the Fugenfüller or Rotband putty using the dot method in increments of 30 centimeters. This refers to the application of dots of putty on the ceiling and gluing the profile by easy pressing. All beacons must be aligned along a line stretched perpendicularly.
• The last thing that requires preparation for the application of plaster layers is the cleaning of the putty protruding beyond the beacons and the primer of the entire ceiling.

Leveling with mixtures

1. When the base is ready, you can proceed directly to the application of leveling layers of putty.

They have their own characteristics in the work, which must be mentioned.:

• When mixing putty, do not make a portion more than you can use in 20-25 minutes.
• After the putty is mixed and stood for several minutes, do not add water or dry mix to it. This has a very negative effect on the quality of its structure.
• Do not dry the ceiling in a draft.
• The layer applied at one time should not exceed the allowable value (it is indicated on the bag).

The mixture after kneading is applied to the ceiling with a small spatula and slightly leveled.

Tip: Before applying each layer, it is very important to allow the previous one to dry completely. After all, if the technology is violated, all our work may simply fall off over time, despite the price and quality of the putty.

Each layer should be pulled together using the rule for installed beacons.

1. After the leveling layer has dried, it must be checked using the rule for the absence of irregularities. To do this, simply run the pressed rule along the surface of the ceiling - it should fit completely. All protrusions are removed with sandpaper, and the pits should be puttied.

Ceiling finish

1. The last step will be the sticker of the grid at the joints of the panels and the finishing putty:

• When the leveling layer is ready, it must be treated with a primer.
• Before finishing putty on the ceiling, it is worth sticking fiberglass at the joints of the panels (rusts) to avoid cracks.
• Fiberglass is glued on top of the leveling layer by pressing it into a fresh layer of putty.
• After the putty has dried, carefully remove all the protrusions with a spatula and sand the surface with sandpaper.
• It remains only to apply two more layers of finished finishing putty "Acryl-Putz" or "Shitrok". You can see the process in more detail in the photo below.
• The final sanding will complete all our dusty work on the ceiling.

Painting

Before painting, clean the room from dust and prime the ceiling. It is not necessary to use special primers for this purpose, just apply the first coat with well-diluted paint. The diluent must be selected only as indicated by the manufacturer on the package.. You should not experiment: if the paint is water-based, then only water can be used when diluting it.

Tip: The painted ceiling must not be dried in a draft, as the top layer becomes crusted, while the bottom remains wet and the plastic properties of the coating are destroyed.

We hope that by reading this article, you have learned how to properly level the ceiling. Now do-it-yourself ceiling repair at home will not be any problem.

The modern market of building and finishing materials pleases with a variety of choices, however, the undoubted leaders in this area have been determined for a long time. Ceramic tiles are one of the best time-tested facing materials. The tiled surface is practical and lasts a long time, and the presence of an unlimited color palette of material allows you to realize the most sophisticated design projects. In addition, the popularity of tiles is also explained by the fact that, in principle, you can tile the walls yourself, and the necessary recommendations can be easily found on the global network. For example, we want to offer you the maximum useful information about how to grout the seams on the tiles.

Grout for tile joints - the offer of the modern market

After laying ceramic tiles, the final touch is grouting; without this procedure, finishing the walls and floors with tiles cannot be considered complete. In addition to practical significance, the seam also has a decorative feature - it complements the overall pattern on the wall or floor. Moreover, manufacturers produce many color additives.

Two types of grouts: based on cement or epoxy resin

Grout on cement base Supplied as a dry mix, which is brought to working condition by dilution with water or liquid latex. Although ready-made grouts can also be found in the retail network, their price is an order of magnitude higher. Cement grout for tile joints in the vast majority of cases is made on the basis of Portland cement, and the special additives that make up the composition are the distinguishing components. All grouts of this type are divided into three groups:

• based on industrial Portland cement;
• based on dry hardener;
• based on a mixture of latex with Portland cement.

Interesting! Portland cement is a special type of cement that got its name because it was very similar in color to building stone, which was mined on the English island of Portland.

Epoxy grout includes epoxy resin and hardener, and gives the seams increased impact resistance and resistance to various chemical influences. Such a grout is characterized by a high cost and, as a rule, is used in the arrangement of premises for industrial or commercial purposes.

In addition, epoxy grout is characterized by excessive viscosity, so only a specialist can successfully work with it. Moreover, there are certain restrictions on its use: the thickness of the tile is from 12 mm, and the minimum joint width is 6 mm. Otherwise, such grout will simply not be able to properly penetrate into narrower seams.

Attention! To avoid serious problems when doing the work yourself, carefully read the instructions of the manufacturers. This is the only way you can determine which tile grout better fit in your particular situation.

Is it necessary to use sealant?

Grouting tile joints - a video instruction of the process, by the way, is located at the end of this article, it also involves processing joints using a sealant. It will protect the surface of the tile from excessive absorption of moisture, as well as protect it and the seams from stains. If the surface is finished with unglazed tiles, then it is completely covered with liquid sealant. Such a specific substance has acrylic, varnish or silicone in its composition. Therefore, it is necessary to choose it based on the type of tile and grout.

Between tiles distance

By and large, the width of the grout joint depends solely on personal preferences. Many people prefer narrow seams, which visually seem to suppress the tile. If the surface is made of elements with a size of 10-30 cm, then the most optimal seam will be about 3 mm. Sometimes tiles of 60 cm in size are also laid according to this scheme. If the tiles are irregular in shape, it is advisable to make a wider seam, but it should not be more than 12 mm.

Attention! The wider the seam, the more likely it is to crack. To seal it, it is necessary to apply a grout with the addition of sand, but this may not always ensure a seam from deformation.

On the other hand, you should not make the grout too narrow, as this will greatly complicate the grouting process, and as a result, they may turn out to be leaky, that is, water will seep under the tile. According to professional tilers, the joints should be wide enough so that they can be filled without problems with any of the selected grouts.

Only in this case they will become waterproof and will act as a kind of shock absorbers in the process of compression or expansion of the tile. If the seam has a negligibly small width, then it will not have such parameters.

Tools and auxiliary materials

• Respirator (working with cement-based grout).
• Protective glasses.
• Rubber gloves.
• Roller, rubber spatula or scraper with a rubber nozzle.
• Bucket.
• Sponge.
• Plywood.
• Jointing, a wooden stick sharpened at one end or a toothbrush.
• A piece of clean cloth.
• A small paint brush or paint roller.

Brief plan

1. The grout is mixed.
2. The solution is aged to the required level of water absorption.
3. The grout is mixed very thoroughly again.
4. The solution is distributed.
5. Excess is cleared.

Solution preparation

As a rule, dry grout is mixed with either water or latex liquid additives that replace water.

Note! Dry polymer grouts can only be mixed with water.

When using any type of liquid, it is necessary to add only such an amount that will be sufficient to prepare a plastic and easily spread mixture. This aspect is extremely important, since excess moisture can provoke a weakening of the grout. To do everything right, the solution must be mixed strictly according to the proportions indicated on the grout packaging. The container in which the solution will be mixed must be dry and clean.

When mixing the grout, the dry ingredient is added to the liquid. Moreover, initially about ¾ of the norm of the liquid indicated in the recipe is used. After all dry components are introduced into the solution in small portions, the remaining liquid is added, while not forgetting to control the consistency of the mixture.

Important! The grout preparation process can be influenced by such external factors, as the temperature regime in the room, relative humidity, and in addition the component composition, for example, the presence of a dye.

It is recommended to use a trowel or an electric stirrer to mix the solution. If preference is given to the "automation" of this process, then the agitator during operation must be completely immersed in the solution, so air will not enter it. After all, air bubbles can also weaken the grout solution. It is for this reason that the speed of the blade revolutions should not exceed 300 rpm. At the end of the mixing procedure, the solution must be left alone for 8-10 minutes, and then it can already be safely used for its intended purpose.

Grouting ceramic tiles - direct execution

Grouting ceramic tiles begins with laying the mortar on the surface of the tiles. For proper distribution, it is best to use a special trowel. It is held at an angle of 30 0 relative to the surface of the tile and is applied diagonally. It is necessary to go over the treated area with a grater 2-3 times, and not just covering the distance between the tiles, but trying to rub the solution into the seam with an effort to completely fill it. Naturally, the greater the resistance, the greater the filling density of the seam, and, accordingly, the stronger it will be. main idea This work consists in the fact that all voids and corners around the tile, remaining after its laying, should be filled as much as possible. When applying the grout, the liquid will leave it, and the seam will be filled with particles of cement and sand. Thus, after hardening in the seam, a solid body will be obtained.

It is not necessary to grout the entire surface at the same time. by the most the best option there will be a distribution of the solution in a small area, about 1-2 m. In the process of work, it will be found out how quickly the grout sets and whether there is a need for frequent stops associated with cleaning the surface. In some cases, it is possible to wipe 9-10 square meters. m, and then deal with the cleaning of the working area. If the solution sets quickly, then only a small area is overwritten.

What is a grout bag?

If the tiled surface has such a structure that its cleaning process requires considerable effort, for example, imitation of an old brickwork, it is recommended to use a special grout bag. This "tool" visually resembles a pastry bag, with which housewives decorate cakes. A tip is attached to the end of the bag, the diameter of which corresponds to the width of the grout. Then the bag is filled with a solution, which is squeezed out with force directly into the seam.

When using a trowel bag, the tip is placed at the top of the joint and then advanced along as it fills. As a rule, all horizontal seams are filled first, and then vertical ones. In the process of applying the grout, it needs to be squeezed out a little more than it seems at first glance. After some hardening of the solution, it is compacted using jointing or a small piece of a smooth metal tube, the cross-sectional diameter of which is greater than the size of the seam. Then, within 30 minutes, you need to let the grout pressed in the seam seize and then the excess is removed using a stiff brush.

Wet grout removal

When it is visually determined that the grout has hardened sufficiently, the lined surface is wet cleaned. To do this, take an ordinary sponge dipped in ordinary clean water. In a circular motion, excess grout is removed from the tile, while do not forget about the frequent washing of the sponge in water, which must be changed as it gets dirty.

Dry grout removal

The seams need to be aligned and smoothed with a joint, that is, a wooden stick with a sharpened end or the end of a toothbrush handle. Then the edges are trimmed with a sponge. The resulting seam should be even and non-convex, in the vast majority of cases it turns out to be slightly concave. All seams must be the same shape and depth.

We hope our detailed instructions will help you to properly perform self-grouting on the lined ceramic tiles surfaces. If some points require clarification, then we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the training video clip.

The tiling work is almost finished. The last step remains - to grout and, if desired, seal the seams.

A well-made grout will mask the existing flaws, and a carelessly executed one will spoil the impression of flawless work.

High-quality grouting gives the work an aesthetic appearance.

Grout ensures long-term preservation of the tiles, prevents the accumulation of bacteria and microbes in the joints, gives the work a finished look and additional beauty.

Types of grouting materials

Among the types of grouting materials, there are two main ones: cement-based and epoxy-based. As a rule, they need to be bred on their own. Can buy ready mixes, but their cost is much more dry.

Cement-based grouts are dry mixes that differ in the additives that make up their composition. Liquid latex or water is used as a solvent.

Epoxy grout contains epoxy resin with a hardener. They allow you to make impact-resistant tile joints, increase their resistance to chemicals. This material has disadvantages: relatively high cost and low elasticity. If the seams between the tiles are deep enough, and their width is less than 6 mm, then the epoxy grout will not penetrate into such a narrow seam.

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Before work

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Grout Width

Even before you start laying tiles, you should decide on the size of the joints. On the one hand, it's a matter of taste. Most craftsmen believe that the optimal joint width in residential premises is 3 mm, for outdoor tiles - up to 12 mm.

In terms of quality, the width of the joints determines the strength and durability of the tile installation.

Narrow tile joints are problematic to fill, good quality fail to achieve. This means that over time, water will seep into the lining.

Sealing too wide seams is also problematic, as they will crack over time. If you have to grout joints with a width of more than 12 mm, coarse-grained sand is added to the grout. To make the grout for wide joints more durable, it is prepared with a lower solvent content.

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Grout preparation

A paint roller, a sponge, a scraper with a rubber nozzle are the main tools for grouting tile joints.

The components of the grout are thoroughly mixed in a small container. You can mix manually, with a hammer drill in drilling mode, or with a low-speed drill with a “mixer” nozzle. After waiting a few minutes, stir again. In this case, the solution will better wet the surface, air bubbles will come out of it.

Tools and materials for grouting:

• grout;
• container for mixing;
• rubber gloves;
• trowel;
• steel trowel or grater;
• stitching;
• toothbrush or wooden wedge with a sharpened end;
• scraper with a rubber nozzle;
• sealant;
• paint roller or small paint brush;
• sponge.

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Stages of work

To start, spread the mixture over a small area so that it does not have time to harden.

With the help of a trowel, the solution is laid out in a slide on the surface of the tiles or simply poured out of the bucket if the floor seams are rubbed. With a steel trowel or grater, the mass is evenly distributed over the seams.

Hold the trowel or grater at a slight angle to the tile, applying the grout to its surface diagonally. It is necessary to walk over the surface with effort several times, pressing and rubbing the grout into the seams. Ensure that they are completely filled with the solution.

Do not rub the entire surface with a rhinestone. If the solution sets quickly, you will have to stop work and clean up. Therefore, to begin with, the grout must be distributed on a small surface of 1-2 square meters. meters. By experimenting on a small area, you can increase it. Experienced craftsmen overwrite immediately up to 10 square meters. meters.

For grouting tiles and ceramic tiles, the principle of operation is the same.

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Filling joints with a grout bag

Grouting the joints with a bag will help to avoid soiling tiles with decorative relief.

This is an old technology, but it is still used today. If the surface after filling with grout is difficult to clean, such as broken stone, a grout bag is used to fill the joints. The principle of operation is the same as that of a pastry bag.

A metal tube-tip is fixed on one of the corners of the bag. Its diameter should be less than the width of the joint to be filled.

The bag is filled with grout, then it is squeezed out with force through the tip into the seam.

Squeezing out the grout, the tip is moved along the seam, filling it evenly. The quality will be better if you fill in the long seams first, and then fill in the remaining short ones.

A small hump of grout should form above the seam. When it hardens slightly, it is rammed into the seam with a joint or a piece of an even metal tube, with a diameter slightly larger than the width of the seam to be filled.

Removing grout is the most painstaking and long process. There are two cleaning steps to follow: dry and wet.

The work is painstaking, you need to be patient.

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After removing excess grout with a spatula, wipe the remaining mixture with a dry cloth.

Excess grout is removed with a grater or spatula. The tool is located perpendicular to the surface of the tile, they are pulled together by excess grout. The direction of movement is along the diagonals of the tiles.

If the seam is damaged, it must be corrected, if necessary, add liquid grout.

The time it takes for the grout to fully set before wet cleaning is dependent on the grout itself, the weather conditions, the tile adhesive used, and the type of substrate.

The remains of the grout set on the surface of the tile quickly, and the thick layer in the seams hardens for a longer time.

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When wet cleaning tiles, you need to change the water more often to get the best results.

You need to test a small area by wiping it with a heavily dampened sponge. If the grout in the joints turns out to be elastic, but not hard, it's time to start wet cleaning. If she reaches for a sponge from the seams, you should wait a while. If she managed to grab too hard, there is nothing terrible, but it will take more effort and time to clean it.

In the event that time is lost and the solution has completely set, ordinary wet cleaning may not help. It is necessary to wipe its residue with sandpaper or an abrasive grater that does not leave scratches.

Cleaning grout begins with the surface of the tiles. Circular soft movements remove particles of cement and sand.

Special force should not be applied, otherwise irregularities may form in the grout seams.

When the sponge absorbs particles of cement and sand, it must be thoroughly rinsed and squeezed well. The grout mixture penetrates not only into the seams, but also into the pores of the tile. Therefore, washing 1-2 sq.m and letting the tile dry, you should make sure that its surface is clean enough, grout particles are washed out of the pores of the tile.

From the first pass, it will not be possible to wash off the remnants of the grout, after the work will have to be repeated.

The more often you change the water, the faster the result will be obtained. By the purity of the water, you can judge how the tiles are washed.