How to change the main water filter. Rules for replacing different cartridges in water treatment systems

Quite recently I encountered such a problem as replacing the cartridge in the water filter. We recently installed this unit. And now it's time to change stage 1. But first you need to determine where is this 1 step? To do this, you will have to consider the structure of a conventional household 5-stage water filter with a reverse osmosis membrane. Since they are all approximately similar in structure, we will consider mine as an example.

First, there is a block for connecting the filter to the water supply. This is such a threesome with a faucet (similar to connecting to a water supply at washing machine, only much less)
So

or like mine

Usually such threesomes are in the toilet or under the sink in the kitchen after the valve that shuts off the water in the kitchen or in the toilet. A blue or white wire comes out of this threesome. This is the tube through which cold water to the filter. Just if you follow this tube, you can come to the 1st stage of the filter. 1Step - Usually the flask is transparent, but may be white. Well, or in another language, we consider 3 flasks from right to left.

Well here is step 1., transparent flask - it contains a cartridge, usually made of polypropylene, for mechanical cleaning. Passes particles no more than 5 microns. Typically, a 1-stage cartridge lasts 3-6 months. BUT it all depends on the degree of contamination of the water and the speed of the flow of water in the water supply. My water speed is very low, but enough for the filter. Those. I have a 12-liter tank that does not fill up as expected in 1.5-2 hours, but in 6 hours, BUT again, this is enough for us.
I decided to change after 4 months and this is the state of my cartridge

It turns out that it is not even too dirty, ideally it is white. He could also stand with me quietly for 2 months. And so the cartridges are pulled out all dark brown and in mucus.

Next comes 2nd stage, 2 flask - purifies water from chlorine. Usually this Activated carbon. The replacement frequency is 3-6 months, but depends on the purity of the 1st stage. If the cartridge at stage 1 is killed after 3 months, then, accordingly, the entire load will fall on stage 2 and the cartridge at stage 2 will simply become unusable earlier.

3rd step, 3 flasks - there can be another cartridge with activated carbon, an ultraviolet lamp, an ion exchange resin, an iron-free load. Needed to clean the water from chlorine and other impurities, because. it is impossible that at least the smallest particles of chlorine get on the membrane. It also changes somewhere every 3-6 months.

Who has 4-stage filters with reverse osmosis, then just 2 stages-2 flasks, and 3 and 4 stages - a membrane and a post-filter. Who has filters without a membrane, without osmosis, without a tank, then it costs just 1-2-3 flasks, respectively 1.2, or 3 steps - flow filters

1) We go to the toilet or under the sink and turn off the faucet on the threesome for the filter

2) drain the water from the tank, but leave a little for the cartridge

3) there is also a blue faucet on the top of the tank, it will also need to be turned off, for those who have flowing ones, then just open the clean supply valve drinking water. There will be a release of pressure in the system.

4) We take out the filter itself from under the sink. We put it on a rag or in a basin, because water inside.

5) take this thing

it may be different
We put on the flask of the first stage from the bottom up to the stop. And turn the flask clockwise with this key. It might take some good effort. If the flask does not unscrew, then you can slightly warm the top of the flask with a hair dryer, carefully. And immediately turn the key, it should unscrew.

6) we take out the old cartridge, wash the flask under running water without aggressive agents, better without any agents at all.

7) We take a new clean little white cartridge. Insert into a clean flask. There, at the bottom of the flask, there will be a protrusion, so, as it were, on it, you need to insert a hole in the cartridge into it. The cartridge can be inserted in either direction, unless otherwise indicated. We fill the flask with filtered water, which you left when you drained from the tank

8) twist the flask with a key until it stops. Don't twist!! Otherwise, the flask may burst due to excess pressure, or you simply won’t unscrew it anymore.

9) Check it out! We turn on the faucet on the tank, turn off the clean water faucet, turn on the faucet on the threesome. We check that water does not stand out from the thread of the flask, does not drip, so that it is dry! You can take a napkin and run along the thread. If dry, then all is well. And that's it.

10) put the unit in place, very carefully. Then the first portion of the tank must be drained

If something went wrong and water seeps out, turn off the tap on the filter tee and twist the flask. Maybe a mote from the old filter got on the thread of the flask, which does not allow it to spin to the end.

That's basically all. How to change the membrane, I will write later when the time comes for experience

Many motorists change the filters in their cars themselves, and the reason for this is not only the economy. There are many cases when the "specialists" of unscrupulous car services installed a new oil filter incorrectly or did not change it at all, taking advantage of the carelessness and gullibility of the client. Although they took money both for the spare part and for the work itself. In this article, we will analyze in detail the question of how to properly change the oil filter, and also consider some related operations.

How to remove the oil filter

The first problem that motorists often face when they first decide to take on an independent replacement oil filter- how to unscrew it from the cylinder block or remove it from the body? Indeed, in the car service everything looked extremely simple: the master threw a special key on the filter housing or cover and turned it with a slight movement of the hand. But most car owners do not have such a key.

If replacing the oil filter with your own hands is not a one-time event for you, but a regular procedure, then it is better to get a special key. Two or three replacements of the oil filter will fully pay for it, and the procedure itself will be noticeably simplified.

If there is no such key - it does not matter! There are several effective and relatively simple ways dismantling the oil filter, which do not require a specialized tool and are available to almost any car owner.

Only in some car models it is possible to replace a filter made in its own housing without leaking a significant amount of oil. Therefore, we first drain the oil. Then choose the most suitable of the following methods.

Sandpaper. One of the most common and cleanest methods for those cars where it is possible to freely get close to the filter with your hands. Most modern filter housings have smooth surfaces, which during the installation or operation of the car are often smeared with oil. Therefore, taking into account the strong tightening, it is rather problematic to turn them by hand - they simply slide off. The situation is further aggravated by the fact that access to the filter is often limited, it is not necessary to talk about a comfortable grip with hands with a good emphasis. In this case, simply wrap the filter with sandpaper (abrasive to the body). Coupling force will increase significantly. Your hands will stop slipping, and this will allow you to unscrew the filter.

If there is a choice, then it is better to use sandpaper on a fabric basis and with a large grain. paper base with fine abrasive is also fine, but it is not very comfortable to use and does not adhere as well to a smooth metal case.

Drive belt attachments or timing. Another well-known and effective way. Choose the softest and widest belt, put it on the filter housing, clamp it with force and turn it by the free end. Some motorists use a more advanced version of this method: the free end of the belt is clamped in a metal tube or wound on a ring wrench. It turns out something like a lever, which simultaneously squeezes the belt (increases grip strength) and increases the applied force.

Large clamp or hand vise. An easy way for those who have this tool. Firmly clamp the filter housing and unscrew it by applying force to the tool (which is much easier than to a cylindrical smooth housing).

It is important not to overdo it, otherwise you can push a hole in the filter housing, which will lead to oil leakage and contamination of the engine compartment elements. Therefore, it is better to put rubber bands between the vise jaws (clamps) and the filter.

Screwdriver, large awl, or any other sharp and strong tool. Dirty way, which is used only in extreme cases. To remove the oil filter, punch through it perpendicular to the axis. Important: calculate the breakdown point and the angle of entry of the tool so that it is possible to make at least a quarter of a turn using the resulting lever. Do not forget to substitute some kind of container at the same time, as oil will flow out of the filter.

After removing the oil filter, it is recommended to immediately install a new one in order to exclude the possibility of foreign contaminants entering the lubrication system. Or, if a certain time elapses between removal and installation, cover the filter holes with a clean, lint-free rag.

If you need help choosing a new oil filter, contact the website specialists.

How to change the oil filter correctly

Before installing a new filter, be sure to check the pressure for which its bypass valve is designed. This information is usually indicated on the case or box. Oil filters for many cars are mutually compatible in terms of mounting threads, however, the pressure to open the bypass valve may be different. And if a filter with a critical pressure of 1.4 bar is installed in a system where the valve must open, for example, at 1.8 bar, then the filtration efficiency will drop sharply. Oil will almost constantly flow around the filter element.

Inspect the seating surface under the filter - there should be no burrs or burrs on it. If there are, then carefully sand with sandpaper, as they can tear the gasket, which will cause oil to leak. If remnants of the old gasket or other foreign elements are found on the seating surface, they must also be carefully removed. Then lubricate the gasket on the end surface of the filter housing with a thin layer. Don't overdo it, just enough to leave a slight sheen of oil.

Screw the filter into place with good force. Remember that it should not unscrew under any circumstances. However, pressing it with all your might is also not worth it - this way you can damage (squeeze out or tear) the gasket, collapse the case or, even worse, pull or even break the thread.

When replacing engine oil filters, it is still practiced to pre-fill the housings with oil. In fact, it is not necessary to fill the filter with oil, it is even contraindicated. First, you will stain the motor when installing it. Some of the oil will still spill out, no matter how dexterous you are. Second, it still doesn't make any sense.

Why is it pointless to pour oil into a new filter? The lubrication system is emptied when the filter is removed, and after installation and starting the engine, it is refilled with a pump. If there is already oil in the filter, then immediately after starting the engine, it will be pumped into the system by the pump. Part of the line from the pump to the filter is closed, and the oil filling the intake channel will begin to put pressure on the existing air between the pump and the filter. Because of this, several air plugs are formed in the system at once: between the oil that goes into the system from the filter and is distributed through the channels under air pressure, and the lubricant flow that is pushed through, taken by the pump. This will reduce the efficiency of the system for a while. If the filter is empty, then a column of oil from the crankcase rising under pressure will evenly fill the entire line.

If during the operation of the car the oil pressure light flashes periodically at idle or does not go out for more than 5 seconds immediately after starting, then it is better to purchase an oil filter of a different brand or from another seller.

On vehicles where the oil filter is available as a replaceable cartridge, replacement is usually not an issue. Unscrew the top cover of the housing and change the filter element. Do not confuse the top with the bottom if the filter has an orientation on your car model, and if necessary, replace the rubber gasket between the cover and the body.

In this case, it is possible to replace the oil filter without changing the oil. Firstly, the price of an oil filter is disproportionately small compared to the cost of repairing an engine. Secondly, even the filter manufacturers themselves say that after 5-8 thousand kilometers the filter element becomes quite clogged, the cleaning efficiency decreases, and the oil begins to pass through the bypass valve more and more often. At the same time, with such runs, the oil itself often remains quite suitable. Therefore, some motorists prefer to change the oil filter without draining the oil after 7-8 thousand kilometers for diesel cars and after 4-5 thousand kilometers for gasoline cars.

Replacing the oil filter housing and gasket

On many cars, only the filter element changes, and the oil filter housing remains non-replaceable. There is a certain convenience and savings in this. After all, the cartridge is cheaper than the entire filter together with the housing and valves.

However, such a design of the lubrication system is associated with some other difficulties, for example, replacing the oil filter housing or gaskets under it. The oil filter housing changes infrequently; on some cars, it also performs the function of a heat exchanger. Basically, its replacement is due to thermal deformation of the metal, crack or destruction of fastening points.

But the gasket under the body is a more vulnerable and short-lived element. There are a number of car models in which this gasket is a real disease. And they change it with enviable frequency.

How to change oil filter gaskets correctly? For each car, this process is associated with certain subtleties. Below we will give a few general advice, which will help you avoid common mistakes when performing this operation.

First, find out if the oil filter housing on your car's engine is also a heat exchanger. That is, whether the cooling system line passes through it. If so, be sure to drain the antifreeze before dismantling the housing so that it does not spill and, more importantly, does not enter the crankcase through the oil channels.

After removing the housing, carefully inspect the seating surface. There are cases when replacing the gasket did not eliminate the leak, since there were metal defects on the seating surface. Also carefully remove the remnants of the old gasket and coked oil, if any.

Wait until the antifreeze is completely drained; ideally, wipe it almost dry in the canal. Even a small amount of coolant in the oil can significantly reduce the anti-foam qualities of the oil.

Before installing the housing, be sure to lubricate the gasket with a thin layer of grease or oil. When tightening the bolts, the gasket should sit freely on the seating surface. Otherwise, it can catch on the roughness of the cylinder block, warp or even tear.

First, tighten all the mounting bolts without force, until a noticeable resistance to twisting appears. Just tighten them up afterwards. This will avoid distortion and deformation of the gasket.

And be sure to look for information on how to properly change the filter housing on your particular car. Often this operation is associated with the dismantling of attachments or other individual engine parts. In such cases, without experience and detailed instructions, it will be difficult.

Replacing the oil filter in an automatic transmission is a separate topic, rather complicated and voluminous, so we will not consider it in this article.

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Models of cleaning systems differ in shape, design and methods of disposal, but the principle of operation is similar. Selling companies offer additional service for equipment maintenance. If you need to change water filters yourself, then the owners are afraid to make a mistake. The procedure for updating components has rules that you need to understand.

What are water filters

The central filter consists of two flasks containing sorbent components. The device is mounted in the apartment after the water meter. The main cleaner is built into the system of a house that is not connected to the city water supply or in housing with old rusty pipes.

A jug is a budget option that is purchased to clean liquids. The easy-to-use model filters up to 2.5 liters of cooking water at a time, but does not get rid of hardness. The resource of the device varies from 150 to 400 liters. The volume of pure moisture is limited by the size of the flask, so it will not be possible to immediately fill a capacious pot or kettle. Inexpensive cassettes do not always fit glasses from other brands.

The nozzle on the tap has a low throughput - no more than 500 ml per minute. Purified water enters a container that a person selects for individual needs. Due to slow filtration, the model is not popular with compatriots. The technique does not have a bypass system and power settings. If the owner needs to wash the dishes, then the equipment has to be dismantled.

Flow models are installed under the sink, connected with a water hose to the faucet. Product throughput - up to 2 liters per minute. The declared service life of the unit is up to 4000 liters. A family of 3 will need replacement parts after 2 years. The overall system takes up a lot of space, so it is not suitable for compact housing.

Built-in filters are often mounted in a cabinet in the kitchen. The device resembles a cylinder, inside of which there are cleaning components and a vessel for collecting liquid. Water comes from a separate faucet.
The pre-cleaner removes moisture from mechanical particles. The pre-filter is installed on pipes at the entrance to the apartment or in front of household appliances. It has one cleaning stage, there are models for hot water and softening of the incoming liquid into the washing machine.

When to replace the water filter

Tap moisture rarely has good level purity. Installed system collects impurities that accumulate in filter devices. Inside, conditions are created for the reproduction of bacteria. Manufacturers often equip products with warning markers. It is easy to determine the need for replacement by signs:

The cleaning process is slower;
the quality of the liquid drops (smell, color, transparency);
dirt appears on the flask body;
scale builds up in the kettle.

Cartridges in jugs are tied to the volume of liquid to be purified. Depending on the amount of moisture used, the cassette is changed every 1-2 months. There is an indicator on the cover of the device that warns of the need for a procedure. In budget models, an arrow pointer on the inner case will notify you of deadlines.

In flow filters, sediment appears on the walls after 60-90 days. Reverse osmosis systems require replacement no earlier than a couple of years. You should not tighten it, otherwise the accumulated dirt can break the expensive membrane. In multi-stage models, primary cleaning cassettes are bought every 8 weeks, and the remaining cartridges after six months.

How to replace a water filter

Liquid purification systems have a finite service life. To update the components of the device, you do not need to call a specialist. An unprepared user will cope with the installation of new components. If you set a reminder on your smartphone, the owner will not forget the right time for the event.

Replacing the water filter cartridge

When purchasing components for the system, you need to pay attention to the purpose. Most models are suitable for working with cold liquid (within + 35-40 C). If they get on hot water, then the structure of the device will quickly collapse. For moisture from +40 C, special cartridges are produced that are marked or have a red label on the package.

The procedure begins with turning off the liquid. If the home plumbing has a built-in faucet, then it is blocked. In other options, you will have to completely block the supply of moisture through the riser. Carefully unscrew the flask using the replacement key from the original equipment. To reduce the pressure, you need to press the reset button or open the valve on the sink. Manufacturers place the device in the upper part of the case.

The old cartridge is pulled out of the container, the condition of the sealing rubber bands is checked. A high-quality gasket should be strong and elastic, and hard parts should be replaced with new ones. If there is rust or dirt on the walls of the flask, then rinse thoroughly with clean water. Household chemicals are poorly washed out, therefore it is forbidden for filters.

A cassette is installed in the cleaned glass, tightened with a key until it stops. To replace components in membrane models, you need to fill the flask with water. User warns of damage protective layers air bubbles.

The procedure ends with checking the tightness of the connections. If moisture flows out, then the device is re-fixed or the rubber bands are changed. You can treat the seals with silicone grease or petroleum jelly. After installing the cartridge, the liquid from the tap is drained for 10 minutes.

Replacing the permanent type water filter

In expensive multi-stage models, components are updated 1-2 times a year. Shut off the water supply, remove the red locking clip. To dismantle the hose, press the ring. Unscrew the cover, remove the device from its place. The filter is held by special brackets, so the device is carefully pulled out.

Disconnect the tube that leads to the membrane. They change the cleaning elements, assemble the membrane, tighten the top plugs and mount the hose. After the procedure, the water pressure is checked, a device is used to filter the liquid.

Replacing the coarse water filter

The system captures large particles that are invisible to the naked eye of a person. The size of the retained debris ranges from 1 to 20 microns. Variants with filter components are similar in appearance to a polypropylene coil or fine mesh cylinder.

To replace the coarse filter, you must turn off the water. Unscrew the structure with a wrench. If clamps are mounted on the surfaces, then remove the parts. Remove the seal, wind a new insulating tape. Fix the device on the wall, pressurize and check the tightness of the connections.

Cleaning the coarse filter

In mechanical filtration models, it is not always necessary to change the cartridge. The system is cleaned according to an algorithm understandable to an unprepared user:
shut off the water;
unscrew the cover of the sump;
get the grid;
remove debris from the surface;
install the device in place;
apply liquid.

If the device has not been opened for a long time, then the lid is tight. You will have to use an adjustable wrench or the device that came with the kit. The mesh can not be washed with household chemicals, scraped with metal scrapers. An old toothbrush will help to deal with dirt. To avoid leaks, it is necessary to replace the old seal. Fresh electrical tape is wound on the thread, the device is tightened.

If the filter has not been changed for a long time, then a dark coating appears inside the flask. It will help to remove it. lemon acid which is safe for the human body. For a three-glass model, you will need eight packs of white crystals. Boiling water is contraindicated for plastic parts, so hot, slightly cooled water is used. The containers are filled with liquid, the caustic substance is dissolved in lids, cylinders. Leave for 30 minutes to act. Drain moisture, gently brush, rinse.

If a water purification system is installed in the home, then replacing the cartridge is easy to do without the help of a specialist. simple technology understandable even to an inexperienced user. If you take a picture of the labels of components, you can choose the right model.

On the video: how to replace cartridges in a water purification filter with a reverse osmosis system.

21.04.2016

Regular replacement of filters and filter elements is important for the stable operation of the car and increasing its life. The most common signs that any filter needs to be replaced are:

1. Reduced vehicle power.
2. Increase in fuel consumption.
3. Sudden stop of the engine.

In the worst case, if the filter is not replaced in a timely manner, the engine will not start.

What filters need to be changed in the car

1. . Provides filtration of air entering the engine. Eliminates small and large foreign particles. In cars with injection engines, it is located on the engine. In cars with carburetor engines, it is located inside the air collector.
2. . Provides filtration of engine, lubricating and transmission oils. It is located on the front or rear side of the cylinder block, depending on the type of engine.
3. . Protects car fuel from foreign impurities. It is located between the pump and the fuel tank.

How often do you need to change filters in your car?

The replacement interval depends on the type of device as well as the operating conditions.

1. The air filter should be replaced every 10,000 km.
2. The installation of a new oil filter is carried out together with an oil change every 15,000 km. With regular use of cars in urban areas, this figure is reduced to 10,000 km.
3. The fuel filter is changed once every 20,000 km. This number can be reduced to 8 or 10 thousand km, depending on the operating conditions of the car.

Replacing filters in a car: a quick guide

How to change the air filter

Replacement this filter is the simplest procedure. To do this, you will need a Phillips screwdriver or socket wrench. See also detailed instructions.

1. Put the car on the parking brake.
2. Unscrew the filter housing cover.
3. Remove the used filter element.
4. Remove dust and dirt from the filter housing.
5. Install a new filter element, wide side up and press it firmly with the cap.

Fuel filter replacement instructions

Strict adherence to safety regulations is required. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with detailed instruction. This procedure is quite complicated. If you are unsure of your experience, contact any service center.

1. Raise the car with a jack and install supports.
2. Relieve the fuel rail pressure by pulling the fuel pump fuse.
3. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
4. Disconnect the fuel line.
5. Remove the old fuel filter.
6. Install a new filter.
7. Connect the fuel line.
8. Install the fuel pump fuse.
9. Reconnect the negative terminal.

How to change the oil filter

Crystal clear water running from central system water supply is the utopian dream of all the inhabitants of our planet. In order not to poison their body with impurities of heavy metals, other harmful compounds and microorganisms, many resort to the use of filtered water. There are quite a few varieties of filters, but the principle of operation is similar for most of the designs. That is why the question of how often to change the water filter is a common one for all users.

How to change cartridges, consider an example:

• Shut off the water supply to the system.
• You can make your work easier by opening the clean water supply faucet. So you will slightly bring down the pressure in the system.
• Using the key that comes with the kit, unscrew the flask.
• We remove the old cartridges from each flask. Make sure that you have a container on hand in which you can quickly transfer them. Otherwise, you can soak the floor around.
• We wash the flasks, pour out the remaining water from them. We carry out this procedure without the use of household chemicals.
• It is also advisable to rinse the rubber seals on the filter flask and lubricate with silicone grease.

• We place a new replaceable element in a clean flask, fill it with pre-prepared water, so the air bubbles in it will not damage the membrane.

For the model, the filters are arranged in the following order (from right to left):

1. Pentek P5 module (polypropylene) for water purification from mechanical impurities. It is highly resistant to bacteria and chemicals. Detains particles larger than 5 microns;
2. The Pentek GAC10 module (granular activated carbon) is designed to eliminate mechanical, organic and organochlorine impurities. Detains particles larger than 20 microns.
3. The Pentek EPM-10 module (pressed activated carbon) is designed to eliminate mechanical impurities. Detains particles larger than 10 microns in size. Improved chlorine removal performance.

After installing the filter elements, we continue the installation:

• We twist the flasks by hand.
• We check the tightness of the system by opening the supply valve tap water into the system and make sure that no water seeps out.
• We drain the water for about 10 minutes to wash out any remaining coal dust and particles on new cartridges.

The replaced element does not contain harmful components and impurities, is not subject to special disposal, it can only be used as a sample for the purchase of a new cartridge.

As you can see, the replacement procedure should not cause any difficulties and complications. And having mastered this simple science, you will be able to significantly save on the work of specialists and provide your home with clean, high-quality water.