Tobacco blooms what to do. Smoking tobacco: growing from seeds, collecting and storing

The most important thing before planting tobacco in open ground is to harden our seedlings. To put it simply, accustom her to the open sun. To do this, a week or a half before landing, we expose boxes of tobacco in the open sun. The first day for 20-30 minutes, the second for 40-60 and so on. As a result, before planting, our crops should be under the open sun all day and not experience any stress. We monitor the humidity of the earth in glasses. If this hardening procedure is not carried out, then our seedlings, when planted in open ground, can simply burn out from direct ultraviolet radiation, turn yellow and dry.

Preparation for disembarkation.

Before proceeding with the landing, we will need to cultivate the land (plow, dig). Then mark the landing pattern. I plant according to the scheme: two rows of passage, two rows of passage. Those. we plant the first row, between plants 60-70 cm. Then the second row between rows 40-50 cm in a checkerboard pattern. You can plant in three rows, it's just more convenient for me. After leaving the passage 60-80cm. and so on. Someone limited to the ground in this case, you can compact the landing. In general, for different varieties different scheme planting (large-leaved varieties, small-leaved) I use one scheme for everyone, I have enough land.

So, with the landing scheme, we decided. Next, with a garden scoop, we dig holes a little deeper than our cups and spread the seedlings, placing them next to the holes. I also want to note that we do not water the seedlings 2-3 days before planting, so it will be better for a lump of earth to come out of the glass and the bushes themselves will be less fragile. We take our glass with seedlings, turn it over. The seedling stem should be between the middle and ring fingers arms. Then slowly tap on the bottom of the glass and pull it together, if the glass is not removed, you can slightly wrinkle it. Next, lower it into the hole and lightly sprinkle with earth.

Tobacco diseases.

Now another very important point. Tobacco has the most common disease “tobacco mosaic”, which is transmitted by sucking and gnawing insects (in particular thrips), so I recommend using the PRESTIGE preparation when planting, the one from the Colorado potato beetle.

I decided to test it this year on tobacco and the result was justified. For the purity of the experiment, part of the bushes was not processed and diseased plants were seen in this part. In the treated one, no such phenomenon was found. Diluted 13-15 ml. prestige per 10 liters of water and 200 ml is poured into each well. It turns out such a process: they put the seedlings in the hole and lightly sprinkled with earth. Pour with a liter of water, then 200 ml. divorced prestige and then again 0.5 liters of water. After the water has soaked in, we lay it completely with the ground.

Planting tobacco in the field

Recommendations for growing tobacco on personal plot gives a scientist from the Krasnodar Scientific and Production Association for Tobacco, Shag and Tobacco Products. Tobacco, in comparison with shag, is more demanding on heat. It is possible to grow it south of 55 ° north parallel. Makhorka is more unpretentious. It grows well from the Arctic to the southern regions of Russia.

For a year, a smoker consumes an average of 7.5-8.0 kg of tobacco. AT favorable conditions 30-40 kg of dry tobacco leaves can be obtained from 0.01 ha. The mass of one dry leaf is 0.8-1.5 g. 25-33 technically mature leaves are formed per plant per season.

The following varieties of tobacco are cultivated in Russia: Holly 215, Yubileiny, Trapezond 219, Trapezond 15, shag - M. Pekhlets 4, AS 18/7, Pekhlets local, Datura local.

The duration of the period from planting seedlings to harvesting for tobacco is 100-135 days, for shag - 70-80. It takes 40-45 days to distill seedlings. The sowing rate of seeds per 1 square meter is 0.3-0.4 g. 0.7 square meters of a greenhouse or greenhouse is required per 0.01 ha; 800-900 plants can be obtained from this area. At home, seedlings are grown in flower pots, wooden boxes by placing them on the windows from the sunny side.

4-5 days before sowing, the seeds are soaked in water or in a 0.01% solution of tartaric acid or in a 1.0% solution of potassium nitrate for 24 hours at a temperature of 25-27 ° C. This accelerates seed germination, reduces the time distillation of seedlings for 5-7 days, in addition, the yield of seedlings increases by 15-20 percent. The consumption rate of the solution is 3 ml per 1 g of seeds. After 24 hours, the seeds are removed from the solution, washed, excess water is removed and, when wet, is placed in a layer of 2-3 centimeters in an enamel or faience dish.

From above, they are covered with a damp cloth and placed for germination (at a temperature of 27 ° C) in a thermostat or in a bright, heated and well-ventilated room. Seeds need to be periodically moistened, stirred 4-5 times a day for air access. Usually, on the 3-4th day, the seeds peck - sprouts appear in the form of white dots. The formation of a sprout longer than the seed should not be allowed, since such sprouts easily break off and die.

The hatched seeds are dried to a state of flowability, mixed with well-disinfected sand, humus or nutrient mixture, sifted through a screen with 0.25 cm cells and sown in greenhouses. If germinated seeds cannot be sown immediately, then they are stored in a room with an air temperature of +1 ... +2 ° C (in the basement, in the refrigerator).

On 1 square meter of a greenhouse, 0.13 cubic meters of nutrient mixture are prepared, including 0.02 cubic meters of powder with a ratio of components: 50% humus, 25% earth, and 25% sand (the powder consists of 75% humus and 25% sand ). The thickness of the nutrient layer is 8-10 centimeters. Sowing dates - the third decade of February - the first decade of March. When sowing on 1 bucket of powder, take 3-4 g of tobacco seeds (or 15-20 g of shag seeds) per 10 square meters of a greenhouse. The depth of sowing tobacco seeds is 0.3-0.5 centimeters, shag seeds - 0.7-0.8 centimeters. Before and after sowing the seeds and their powder, the surface of the greenhouses is watered (water consumption is 1 liter per square meter).

After sowing, monitor soil moisture. Before the “cross” phase, seedlings are watered once a day, 1 liter per square meter, before the “ears” phase - 2-3 liters per square meter, after the “ears” phase - 3-5 liters per square meter. The temperature regime in nurseries from sowing to the "cross" phase is 23-25 ​​° C, in subsequent phases - 20 ° C. During the growing period, seedlings are sprinkled 3-4 times and fed. A solution of mineral fertilizers for feeding seedlings is prepared at the rate of: for 10 liters of water - 30 g ammonium nitrate, 50-60 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium sulfate or 20 g of 40% potassium salt. Top dressing is carried out using a watering can with a nozzle with small holes (0.25 cm) consumption - 10 liters of solution per 4-5 square meters of nursery.

From organic fertilizer, it is better to use an infusion of chicken manure (10 liters of water per 1 kg of manure). Leave it for 10-12 days for fermentation, stir occasionally. The fermented mass is filtered. Water is added to the solution - 4-5 parts of water for 1 part of the liquid.

7-8 days before planting, the seedlings are hardened, the number of waterings is reduced, and 2-3 days before planting, watering is completely stopped. Such hardening increases the resistance of plants to adverse conditions in open ground, contributes to better survival and rapid rooting of plants. The stem of well-hardened seedlings does not break when wrapped around a finger.

2-3 hours before sampling, seedlings are watered abundantly. It is undesirable to select seedlings in bunches, since with such a selection many underdeveloped plants are removed. One plant should be pulled out, capturing the two most developed leaves. For planting, take seedlings 14-16 centimeters high with 5-6 developed leaves (not counting cotyledons) with a stem thickness of 0.3-0.5 centimeters with a well-developed root system. Seedlings are planted in the ground when the danger has passed. spring frosts, and the temperature of the soil at a depth of 10 centimeters is set at about 10 degrees.

The approximate date for planting tobacco is from April 20 to May 25. The optimal planting density for large-leaved varieties of tobacco (Holy 215, Yubileiny) is 70–30 centimeters, for medium-leaved varieties (Trapezond 19, Trapezond 219) and all varieties of shag - 70–20 centimeters. When planting along a previously prepared furrow, holes are made at a distance of 30 centimeters for tobacco and 20 centimeters for shag. 0.5 liters of water is poured into each hole, seedlings are laid out along the furrow with leaves to the left of the planter. Planter right hand He deepens the hole with his left hand, puts the seedlings vertically into it, presses the moist soil to the roots from above, sprinkles it with dry earth to reduce the evaporation of moisture. For better survival and rapid growth the roots of the seedlings are dipped in a solution of mullein, which is prepared from fresh cow dung and an equal amount of clay of a creamy consistency. The excess solution is shaken off and the roots are abundantly sprinkled with finely sifted humus mixed with granulated superphosphate in a ratio of 4: 1.

During the growing season of plants, regular loosening of the soil, removal of weeds, top dressing, watering, and disease control are carried out. In flowering plants, the inflorescences are broken off (top) and lateral shoots are cut off (stepsons). Depending on soil moisture, 2-3 waterings are carried out. The approximate watering rate is 6-8 liters of water per 1 plant. Against peronosporosis, a 0.3% solution of polycarbacin or a 0.4% suspension of cineb (5 liters of solution per 0.01 ha) is used. When aphids appear, plants are sprayed with actelic (20-30 g per 10 l of water) or rogor (10-20 g per 10 l of water).

Tobacco leaves are removed, starting from the lower tiers, as they turn yellow (by 1/3 of the plate) in 5-6 doses. They should not be harvested in an unripe or overripe state, wet from dew or rain. Broken leaves are laid out in the shade with a layer of 30 centimeters, after 12-14 hours, when they are tied, they begin to fix the leaves on cords and hang them in a drying facility (boguns of greenhouses, sheds). Do not dry the leaves in the rain and in strong winds. solar drying lasts 15-17 days and gives the final raw material. In cloudy weather, the leaves dry slowly, the raw material is dark. Dried tobacco is carefully removed. Cords with tobacco are folded four times and 5-6 cords are attached to a specially prepared hook. Such a garland of cords with tobacco is called a havanka. Harbors are hung on poles placed in the storage room. In autumn, the leaves are removed from the cords, smoothed with hands, and placed in packs.

Fermented tobacco is used to make quality cigarettes. Fermentation can be done at home. Approximate mode: tobacco is heated in a container for 2-3 days to 50 ° C at an air humidity of 60-65 °. After that (the temperature remains constant - 50 ° C), the air humidity is increased to 70-75% within 5-6 days. Then, within 48 hours, the temperature is gradually reduced, and the relative humidity of the air is increased to 75-80%. Next, the tobacco is cooled to a temperature of 20-25 ° C with a humidity of not less than 11% and not more than 16%. Refrigerate tobacco for 2-3 days. Then it is laid for resting - for 25-30 days.

Tobacco is cut into fibers 0.5-0.7 mm wide. The length of cigarettes is 70-85 mm, the diameter is 8 mm. Tobacco consumption per cigarette is 0.8-1.1 g. To obtain high-quality cigarettes, a mixture of various tobaccos is required. Well, there will be no problems with the sale of tobacco, it is always a profitable business.

Any horticultural crop requires an individual approach to get a good harvest. Even people who are familiar with how to grow tobacco can make mistakes when choosing a place on a plot or the frequency of watering, which will later affect the quality of raw materials.

What kind of tobacco to grow?

This plant can be either perennial or annual. It belongs to the nightshade family and is cultivated for smoking raw materials - leaves that are dried and crushed to be used to fill cigarettes and pipes. Before planting, you have to make a choice which type of tobacco is better to grow, based on its characteristics:

1. Rustic tobacco. Ordinary shag, as it is also called, grows up to 120 cm and contains half the nicotine than virgin varieties. The yellowish flowers have a corolla with a short tube and rounded lobes. AT middle lane and in the south, shag has been grown since the 19th century, from the first warm days until late autumn. Varieties of this type - "Holly 316", "Samsun 85", "Turkish", "Datura".
2. Virginia tobacco. It is also called "real tobacco" (Nicotiana tabacum) because its taste is considered classically strong. The most important feature that characterizes how to grow varieties of tobacco in this category is its high thermophilicity. It will sprout only in regions with high humidity or hot summers. This type includes "Anniversary new 142", "Trapezond 92", "Trapezond Kubanets" and "Pechlets".

planting tobacco

On one hundredth of a hectare of land, you can collect up to 40 kg of raw tobacco, given that the average smoker consumes only 8 kg per year. Tobacco planting and care are carried out based on the type of planting. It has been empirically found that when planted directly in the ground, this plant is severely limited in growth and gives a negligible yield. Therefore, tobacco is planted through seedlings as follows:

1. Tobacco for seedlings is sown in early to mid-February at home. Before this, the seeds are soaked in water for a day, in which a little potassium permanganate can be added to disinfect the seed.
2. Seeds are washed 2-3 times and dried.
3. The soil is intensively loosened, since tobacco can only be grown in soil saturated with oxygen.
4. 4-5 cm of soil is poured into a box or peat pots, but the depth of immersion of seeds should not exceed 0.5 cm.
5. After planting the seeds, they are sprinkled with earth and watered abundantly. The box is covered with a film: shoots under it will be noticeable for 6-10 days, depending on the air temperature in the room.
6. As necessary, the soil is filled up so that it reaches the cotyledon leaves, otherwise the sprouts will die.

Tobacco Planting Scheme

In the interests of any gardener - convenient placement of rows for easy watering, loosening or transplanting if necessary. Planting tobacco in open ground on the site should be optimized for all of the above factors. There are two ways to arrange the beds:

1. Suspension. Varieties with limited growth can be planted in greenhouses in hanging boxes with drainage holes in the bottom. This option is suitable for growing in the cold season, if you plan to harvest twice a year.
2. Horizontal. Habitual placement in the open field should not have a circular shape, because planting tobacco in flower beds inefficiently consumes land area. Even rows can be divided by furrows to facilitate watering.

Tobacco planting distance

The scheme of distribution of sprouts after growing up is selected depending on which variety it belongs to. Before growing tobacco seedlings, you need to choose the distance between the ridges, since they are prepared in advance. In autumn, they are scrupulously cleaned of weeds and fertilized with organic additives with potassium and magnesium. And in the spring, seedlings are placed in the ground according to one of two types:

1. 70x100 cm. This distance between crops is considered optimal for virgin varieties characterized by vigorous growth. They have a strong root system that is prone to overgrowth, which can be prevented by widening row spacing.
2. 50x30 cm. Makhorka varieties are determinant, so their compact root system is enough for 50 cm between rows and 30 cm between plants.

Date of planting fragrant tobacco

It is time to transfer seedlings to open ground if 3-4 true leaves have already appeared on the stem. As a rule, the age of the plant at this point is 40-45 days. Thin tobacco leaves can be obtained by transferring the sprouts to the ground at the age of 30 days, as is done in some regions of America. Exact time planting of tobacco is calculated taking into account the region of growth:

1. In the south, early spring allows transplanting as early as 2-3 weeks of March. It is not necessary to harden the plant first.
2. In the middle lane, tobacco for seedlings is planted later and transferred to open ground in late May - early April.
3. In colder regions, tobacco can be grown in heated greenhouses, de-linking transplant time from a specific date due to balanced conditions.

Conditions for growing tobacco

Knowledge about the scheme of planting and caring for seedlings is not enough to get a full harvest. A much greater influence on the taste of the leaf is exerted by the regulation of growth by removing diseased and dead leaves, and the timely removal of flowers. No matter how much you want to grow smoking tobacco on suburban area with minimal hassle, there are conditions that cannot be refused:

1. Humidity. If watering is not enough due to a dry summer, humidifiers or sprayers are installed in the garden. Plantation owners who are confident in how to grow tobacco spend a lot of money to install such devices, while inexperienced gardeners cannot even imagine how important moisture is for the juiciness and flavor of the leaves.
2. growth correction. Stepchildren and buds are best removed so that all the juices go to leaf growth. Tobacco begins to ripen from the bottom of the plant, so it can easily survive up to five leaf cuts. If some of them are damaged, they are removed during harvesting.

Tobacco growing temperature

At each stage of maturation of the plant, it needs a certain temperature regime. In the open field, it is difficult to regulate it from the outside - for example, during the cultivation of rustic tobacco (shag) in the middle lane. Therefore, gardeners are trying to adapt to natural temperature changes, taking into account the fact that:

• seedlings should root after transplantation at 20-22°C;
• the development of large leaves begins at 25-28°C;
• harvesting ends when the temperature drops to 15-18°C.

Growing tobacco in the country - soil

In Cuba and America, the ground for planting seedlings is never cultivated with tractors, because they compact the soil too much. Where tobacco is grown, fertilizer, watering and harvesting is done only by hand for the same reason. In the country, you can repeat the same conditions by creating wide rows so as not to trample the ground near the plants while moving around the garden. Soil care provides for compliance with the following rules:

1. Use as humus last year's tobacco bushes and roots left after harvest.
2. Control over the level of chlorine in the soil. Its excess becomes noticeable by the lethargy of the leaves on the shoots, even when they are in the shade. You can get rid of it by adding sand to the topsoil and subsequent loosening.
3. Compliance with the depth of plowing. The layer of land for planting should occupy a maximum of 20-25 cm.

tobacco care

When the seedling reaches a height of 25 cm, it begins to need shade to give the leaf a strong taste and subtle aroma. After planting in the ground, fragrant tobacco care changes: it needs to build an awning or shelter over the beds to create shade on the hottest days. For it to be reliable, some conditions must be met:

1. At the edges of the bed, 4 pegs of sufficient thickness should be dug in to withstand the weight of an awning made of thin fabric or film.
2. Pegs need to be immersed to a minimum depth of 5-7 cm so that you do not have to think about how to grow tobacco under a regularly collapsing awning.
3. You can additionally strengthen the "legs" with the help of stones or gravel poured into the installation hole.
4. After completing these manipulations, a piece of fabric or a transparent film is pulled onto the pegs according to the size of the ridge.

Growing tobacco in the garden - watering

In contrast to the fact that this culture likes abundant watering at the germination stage, it likes to grow in moist, but not swampy soils. Irrigation method is of great importance. A jet of water directed under the roots erodes them and leads to a disease of the fungus. In all the books that mention how to grow tobacco for smoking in the garden, it is indicated that it must be irrigated with water. Spraying by the type of a small drip shower from a spray gun is carried out so that water gets on the trunk and leaves.

Tobacco seedling care - top dressing

The roots of the plant are so strong that they require complex feeding, so all efforts should be aimed at accelerating the development of the leaves and increasing their area. Growing and planting tobacco is accompanied by watering with the addition of the following dressings:

• phosphorus;
• bird droppings;
• sulfate or potassium chloride.

Growing tobacco in the country - diseases and pests

1. Black root rot. It affects young plants, which causes the shoots to dry out and wither, and black-brown spots appear on the root part.
2. Bronzing of tomatoes. The disease of tomato seedlings also affects tobacco: rings and arcs appear on the stem - traces of the slow death of tissues.
3. Dry root rot. Every gardener understands how difficult it is to grow tobacco if its roots gradually dry out. Dry rot shrinks them, disrupting the transport of moisture and nutrients.
4. The disease thins the stem, making it brittle and brittle. The base of the plant turns black as a lesion with a microorganism called Rhizoctonia solani Kuehn develops.

This season I will tell and show a smoking room at their summer cottage. You will also learn how to simmer and dry tobacco. The entire growing process was carried out in real time.

Today was the start of the new growing season 2016. The following varieties were sown by me:

2 American 3

4 Trapzond 92

5 Fragrant

Now in order:

Soil was poured into the containers, not filling up 1 cm to the edge, and lightly compacted. I have been using Fasco firm soil for the seventh year and have not seen any problems yet, I hope there will be none this year either.

The next step, I spilled the soil with infusion onion peel. For more information on how to prepare such an infusion, read the article. Perhaps mold in seedlings bypasses me precisely because of this infusion, plus it has the whole set of micro and macro elements.

Let's start sowing. Take a sheet of white paper and sprinkle some seeds.

With the back of the fingertip, lightly press on them and those seeds that stick, shake evenly over the surface. Don't sow too much small area. After you have sown, do nothing else. Seeds should lie on the surface.

Now we place them in a warm place with a temperature of 26-30 C *. In my case, this is the window sill from the balcony side. My thermometer shows +32C.

Beginning of germination

Three days have passed. Three varieties have sprouted, and two more are just pecking. Sprouted in the photo below. White fluffs around the sprouts that look like mold, don't let them scare you, these are the small roots of our future smoke.

Illumination of seedlings.

I’ll make a reservation right away, on the fourth day I launched additional lighting, from 7:00 to 21:00. After all, we do not need elongated plants and moved them to a cooler window sill with a temperature of + 24C. Just in case, I sealed the glass with cellophane so that the direct sun would not accidentally cook my work.
After the seedlings appeared, as in the photo above, I begin the constant ventilation of the containers by sliding the lid. In a day I will increase the gap and on the 8-10th day I will remove it completely.

So we will accustom the tobacco to drier air, otherwise under the lids they now have probably 100% humidity, and if the lids are removed immediately, then everything may die.

It's been exactly a week. Generally development is underway great, no problems.

In addition to constantly airing the containers by moving the lid, I began to open them completely twice a day for 10-15 minutes.

Americans 3 and 26 do not sprout very well, these seeds are not mine, but were ordered three years ago. I think ten bushes from each variety, I will get them, but I don’t need more. This year, I will collect my seeds from them to be sure of their quality.

I kept the landings open almost all day and periodically looked to make sure everything was in order, since it was a day off and I was at home all day. Not a single plant was harmed. At night, just in case, again covered with lids with 1 cm slots. In a day or two, I'll remove the lids.

Seedling thinning.

Thinned landings. I don’t advise you to do such a strong thinning, because. I need only 10-15 bushes of each variety and therefore I do not regret them.

Before thinning

After thinning.

Here is the waste product. I pluck out the melts with tweezers.

Americans, they give very little hope, at least to grow a couple of bushes. This is the first time I've come across such quality seed. Well, let's wait and see, that's actually they are their own person.

13.04

Watering

The first time I watered the seedlings through the pan. The top layer dried up, the containers became lighter and the watering decision was made. I no longer cover containers, the bushes have perfectly adapted to the dry air in my apartment.

Two varieties were also reseeded, American 26 and 3rd.

16.04

top dressing

2 weeks have passed and at this time I usually feed the seedlings with “infusion of onion peel”. I fertilize through the pallet, as well as watering.

How to make an infusion of onion peel

In general, the seedlings are good, stocky. This indicates that the light is enough for her. In principle, it is already possible to dive, but I plan in a week. I'll take her to the village and dive there.

The Americans did not justify themselves, the 26th gave out only 5 plants, the 3rd did not sprout a single seed. The newly sown is still silent.

21.04

On the this moment seedling looks like this:

And five bushes of Americana 26. From these five pieces, I will collect my seeds and in the future I think there will be no problems with germination.

The seeds that I reseeded, I think, should be put into the trash can, because. the result is similar to the first sowing. 3rd American, not a single seed sprouted either.

23.04

Tobacco pick.

Exactly three weeks have passed and at this time I usually do picking.

We make drainage holes in the cups and fill them with earth.
Our containers were watered abundantly 30 minutes before the start of the dive. Now we shake out the lump from the container, so it will be more convenient for us to separate the plants.
Take a glass and make an indentation with a stick.
We select the best plants and place them in the recess, if the recess is small, you can further deepen it with your finger. Then, on both sides, we compact the ground with our fingers and water it abundantly so that water flows from the drainage hole. It should turn out like this.

Our plants are pickled, the cups are signed. I plant a little and picking takes me little time. You, if you have more varieties, can carry out this procedure in a few days.

I put it under the light and as soon as the weather allows, I will move it to fresh air, to a greenhouse.

Here is what we have today.

The five roots of the American on the 26th were also picked on the 1st. They already show good hope for getting their planting material.

The weather more or less allows you to put the cups outside, which actually was done. Hooked to the tomatoes in the greenhouse. Those varieties that I crossed can be seen in the left corner of the box in a rectangular container, this is the 26th American. At number 3, not a single plant sprouted again, I threw it away. The weather is now 12-17 during the day, 5-7 degrees at night.

Top dressing of pickled seedlings.

Tobacco develops as it should. I fed him with a “liquid fert” according to the instructions and from May 7th he began hardening, accustoming her to the sun. On the first day a total of 40 minutes during the day, the second day 1 hour and so on. Those. alternate shade sun. So that when landing in the field, it does not burn out from ultraviolet radiation.

Some more slugs encroach on my property. I sprinkled ash around the box and under the box, they don’t like to crawl on it, the ash sticks to the snails and it infuriates them)). After sprinkling, the outrages stopped.

In a week and a half, it is planned to land on an open plantation.

Everything is already asking for the mainland.

I wanted to land, but unfortunately it rained almost all day. The land is heavily saturated and there is no way to plow it. I hope for a couple of three days it will wind, I will plow it and plant tobacco.

Landing in the garden

Yesterday the sun was shining and a decent wind was blowing, the earth was weathered. It was decided to plow the land and plant. When I annoyed me in the evening, it began to rain again, but the rain during landing was only for the better. Conducted a photo session.

Five Americana 26 bushes that showed promise of getting their seeds are doing great.

I rarely plant tobacco, there is enough land, but few bushes. You, if you have problems with landing areas, adapt to your conditions. I planted 50/50 for the first year, everything grew normally. Only processing is not very convenient, in the sense of walking around tobacco. But nothing, you can adapt, there would be a desire.

Continue reading in

How to grow tobacco for smoking in the garden? No, it's not the dashing 90s that returned when there was a catastrophic shortage. Yes, and they grew up then for the most part shag. Let's talk about how to get exactly tobacco - high-quality, fragrant and inexpensive.

If you are going to be poisoned, then you need to do it with taste. Instead of paying crazy money to manufacturers for a pack of incomprehensible straw soaked in synthetics.

In general, it is not difficult to grow tobacco in the garden. More dances are obtained with seeds and subsequent processing of raw materials. Following the recommendations will help make it easier and without much effort.

Sowing for seedlings

Yes, you will have to do seedlings. Because tobacco has a long growing season. And he simply will not have time to gain a sufficient amount of aroma if he is sown directly into the ground. Yes, and it's impossible. If only because many, when they see tobacco seeds for the first time, exclaim: “Some kind of dust!”.

Indeed, they are so small that if you sow them in the usual way, you will never see a harvest.

Proper planting of tobacco seeds. You will need a wide container, no more than 10 cm high. Better yet, separate cassettes for each seed. The soil should consist of fertile soil with clean sand, 1 to 1. It is poured in an even layer, then it is well leveled and moistened. Some sources recommend watering the soil mixture after sowing. We do not recommend, because there is a risk of washing off microscopic seeds.

Spread the seeds with a wet toothpick on the prepared soil. You can just sprinkle them on the surface, but only very rarely. Otherwise, the seedlings will interfere with each other, despite the tiny size. From above, carefully sprinkle with earth, with a layer of no more than 0.5 cm.

Next, the container is covered with glass or a piece of transparent plastic. After put in a warm, bright place, with a temperature of 25-27 ° C. Remove condensate once a day inside glass by flipping it to the other side. When the soil dries, gently spray it from the spray gun.

Shoots usually appear in about 7-9 days. When the first sprouts appear, the temperature is reduced to 20 ° C. Otherwise, they will stop growing. The cover is also removed.

When the 3rd true leaf appears, the seedlings must be picked. If landing was made in separate cups, then this item can be skipped.

The first two weeks it will seem that the seedlings sit still and do not develop. Actually it is not. Just during this period, the root system is building up. And only then the above-ground part of tobacco will show all its power.

So that young bushes do not fall on their side under the weight of their own leaves, carefully spud them or add soil to the roots.

It is very important at this time to monitor soil moisture. Waterlogging threatens with the appearance of a black leg and complete lodging of seedlings. Be sure to have good lighting from 7 am to 21 pm. You can use additional lighting lamps. At the same time, it is strictly forbidden to substitute seedlings under direct sunlight. Young leaves burn instantly.

Advice. Two weeks before planting seedlings in the ground, tobacco is fed with any phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.

Planting seedlings in the ground

Tobacco is very heat-loving, it can die even at temperatures below +3°C. Therefore, it is planted in the ground in the third decade of May, when all return frosts have finally passed. The planting pattern is very simple - 30 by 50 cm. The principle is like seedlings of tomatoes or peppers. That is, from 0.5 to 1 liter of pure water is poured into the hole for the plant, an earthen mash is made and a young bush of tobacco is planted. It is advisable to deepen it a little, by 3-4 cm. This is how additional roots are formed.

How do you know if a plant is ready to be transplanted? It should have 4-6 true leaves, well developed. They try not to touch the seedling for foliage in general, it is very fragile and delicate. And through an ordinary scratch on the surface, fungal spores and pathogenic bacteria penetrate. It is best to use the transshipment method along with a clod of earth.

On the third day after transplanting into the ground, tobacco is fed with a large amount of organic fertilizer. And no more nutrition is given during growth. The mineral water remains in the leaves and enters the lungs along with the smoke. Nitrogen-rich organics make tobacco smelly, with an unpleasant aftertaste. In addition, the tobacco root is so long and powerful that it will find enough food for itself at any depth.

Advice. If after planting the sun begins to bake, then in the first week the young sprouts are sure to shade. It can be a canopy made of gauze, non-woven material. You can put arcs and throw cover on them. The main thing is to leave the illumination, but not to allow sunburn.

Tobacco care in the garden

Despite the fact that the infusion of dried tobacco leaves repels many pests, they are very fond of eating its fresh leaves. Even the Colorado potato beetles sometimes try to feast on them. Some sources advise spraying plantings with formalin solution. But this option is only suitable for industrial plantations. And what to do in your own garden, where next year the same land will be needed for other plantings?

Option two:

1. Collect pests by hand. The method is suitable if there are only a few bushes.
2. Use approved insecticides. The method is suitable for large plantations of home cultivation.

Just don’t talk about the accumulation of poisons in tobacco leaves from chemicals now. You might think that when smoking, the body is not poisoned, but becomes healthier.

And in order not to have to add industrial poison to nicotine poison, you will have to maintain a site for tobacco in perfect cleanliness from weeds. After all, it is on them that most of the pests live. Weeding will have to be done not only during the cultivation of tobacco, but also in advance. Then prevention will be effective.

Diseases. Yes, oddly enough, even vigorous tobacco is affected by diseases and fungi. You can dance with a tambourine around the landings, blow off dust particles from them, but one single cold snap below + 15 ° C will nullify all your work. Prevention from diseases is the health and strength of the plant. If it is weak and queer, it is unlikely to survive even to technical maturity.

It happens that sometimes even a plant full of strength gets sick. Then there are a couple of options for getting rid of adversity:

1. Tear out a sickly bush of tobacco with a root, take it away from the garden and burn it. In this case, there will be no guarantee that the infection will not go further.
2. Spray the plantings with a solution of copper sulfate. It stops the development of many diseases.

Here again, indignation may follow - but what about smoking tobacco then? Yes, very simple. Because blue vitriol is not absorbed by the plant and is washed off by the first rain or good watering. Such processing does not affect the taste of raw materials.

Watering. Tobacco loves to drink, because its wide leaves evaporate a lot of moisture. Just don't water your plants every day. Usually oriented towards appearance: do the tips of the leaves go down and look sluggish? So it's time to properly shed the soil. Under one plant, 5-7 liters of clean water will be enough.

If the temperature outside rises above + 35 ° C, then it is advisable to moisten the air and soil, regardless of the time of the last watering. Otherwise, the plants slow down in growth or die.

Flowers and stepsons. In order for tobacco in the garden to gain sufficient strength and a good amount of aromatic substances, absolutely all flowers and additional stepchildren are cut off from it. In general, it is considered normal to leave no more than 10 leaves on a plant. The rest must be removed. But, if not a garden bed is planted, but at least a hundred square meters of tobacco, then you will have to crawl through the thickets for a whole season and count the leaves.

To facilitate the task, it is enough to remove the stepchildren and all flower stalks 4 times over the summer.

Useful subtleties

1. Real tobacco is very depleted of the soil. Therefore, a year before planting in the garden they make a large number of fertilizers. The same is done after harvesting the plant.
2. There are recommendations to pre-soak tobacco seeds for faster germination. And then they advise to sow the hatched seeds, trying not to damage the sprouts. But be sure to mix them with sand. Where is the logic? If you follow these tips, then all manipulations must be done with a microscope. After all, the sharp edges of grains of sand can scratch tiny seedlings. And how to separate the soaked seeds? If only with a needle.
3. It is impossible to grow tobacco in the garden on those beds where other nightshade crops grew. Otherwise, there is a high risk that he will catch viral diseases from his predecessors.
4. On poor and scarce soils, tobacco will have to be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers 2 times per season. Only strictly observe the recipe and dosage. An excess of mineral water makes the raw material rough, smelling bad.
5. If a tobacco leaf has dried up on a plant during the growing season, then it is not suitable for smoking. Cut off only green leaves. A characteristic signal for harvesting is the appearance of a specific aroma, stickiness on the leaf surface and a lighter shade of green than the entire bush.
6. Do not break off all the leaves at once. They are harvested only as they ripen. Usually this is a three-time procedure. First, 4 sheets are cut off, then the next 3, and the last 3 are finally broken. This is ideal if only 10 pieces are left, as industrial agronomists recommend. Cleaning starts from the bottom of the plant.
7. But, sometimes when good care, real tobacco grows up to 2 meters tall. There will already be much more than 10 pieces of burdock. In fact, do not break off half of the plant, if the soil and care allow you to grow such a hero.
8. The collected leaves are left to dry in a room with high humidity. If this is a barn or attic, then be sure to put additional containers with water. The raw material should, as it were, wither, and not dry out to a crunch.
9. After drying, it is still not quite smoking tobacco. In order for it to become a quality smoke with a good aroma and proper strength, it must be fermented. How to do this correctly, you can see on specialized forums. There are a lot of recipes, there is a special technology and a variety of additives. The most common are cognac and honey. Only after such processing can you enjoy the quality taste of homemade tobacco. Before the fermentation process, it's just dried leaves.
10. If after all the manipulations the tobacco turned out to be too strong and saturated, it is recommended to dilute it with chopped stems. They have less nicotine, and the aroma differs little from the smell of leaves.

How to grow tobacco for smoking in the garden? It turns out it's very simple. And you don't even have to smoke it. You can use tobacco to repel pests in the garden. And properly dried and fermented, it will be an excellent gift for lovers of a good, high-quality smoke. And let the Ministry of Health warn ...

Video: growing tobacco at home