How to disassemble the cast iron heat exchanger of a gas boiler. Replacing the cast-iron section of the Proterm boiler: quickly and inexpensively

Calculation example work 15,000 + section 12,000 + nipples 2000= 29000

ORDER OF ACTIONS

1) SEND US THE MODEL OF THE BOILER

2) INFORM US WHAT SECTION LEAKED MEDIUM OR EXTREME IF YOU DO NOT KNOW OR DO NOT WANT TO LOOK FOR YOURSELF THEN OUR MASTER WILL SUPPLY A PRELIMINARY DIAGNOSIS

3) PAY FOR A SECTION

4) WE ARRIVE AND PUT THE SECTION LAUNCH

5) WE MAKE DEFECTS AND ADDITIONALLY CONSULT ON THE PREVENTION OF SUCH SITUATION

6) WE GUARANTEE THE WORK!

Replacing the cast-iron section of the Proterm boiler: quickly and inexpensively

Do you need to replace the cast-iron section of the Proterm boiler? We invite you to contact our experts. So replacing a section of a cast-iron boiler will cost you inexpensively, and you will not need to waste time on enough hard work. After all, the heat exchanger is made in such a way that the sections are securely soldered, so it is quite difficult to separate them without proper experience and special tools.

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In which case will it be necessary to replace a section of a cast-iron boiler, Replacement of heat exchanger sections

Over time, the heat exchanger wears out. However, his complete replacement quite expensive. And since separate sections usually fail, it is necessary to replace the cast-iron section of the Proterm boiler, in which a crack appears. Breakage can occur due to moisture on the cast iron, with sudden changes in temperature. It is unsafe to operate the boiler with a faulty heat exchanger. In addition, the boiler can leak, consumes more fuel.

In some cases, a crack can only be detected during the diagnosis of the boiler. Therefore, for a certain time, the equipment is used with the presence of a crack, which increases the destruction. At the same time, if you do not want the boiler to completely fail, then the problem must be solved immediately after discovering the need to replace the cast-iron boiler section.

Cost of replacing a section of a cast-iron boiler, Replacement of heat exchanger sections

The price of replacing a section of a cast-iron boiler depends on the model of your equipment, its power, and the complexity of the work performed. In our price list you will find prices for replacing the section of the cast-iron boiler Proterm different power. At the same time, the master will tell you the final cost after evaluating the scope of work.

Is it possible to independently replace a section of a cast-iron boiler

Some owners of heat engineering are trying to replace the cast-iron boiler section on their own. However, here they face a number of problems:

How to detach a section of a cast iron boiler.
What lubricant (sealant) to choose for installing a new section.
How not to spoil neighboring sections.
How to retrieve the lost operational properties section without special tools.

It should be noted that each section of the cast iron boiler is quite heavy. Therefore, it is very problematic to pull out its radiator on its own. Complicates the work and the fact that the sections are securely soldered or pressed together, so you need to know how and how to separate them. In addition, it is important not to damage entire sections in order to save costs. All this is taken into account by the masters of our service, who have experience in replacing sections of Proterm cast-iron boilers, and also have all the necessary tools to carry out the work.

Professional replacement of the cast-iron section of the Proterm boiler - guarantees to our customers

Remember that the replacement of the cast-iron section of the Proterm boiler by service specialists guarantees you high-quality work that will extend the life of your boiler. In this case, a section will be selected that meets the technical characteristics, dimensions, and power of your radiator.

Fast

Our experience allows us to carry out all work on the replacement of the cast-iron section of the boiler in the shortest possible time. We work around the clock and are ready to come to your call at any time. Additionally, the time of arrival of our master can be agreed by phone. Please note that the replacement of a section of a cast-iron boiler is possible on weekends and holidays at separate rates, which you can agree with our master.

No hassle

We bring our tools, auxiliary materials, help to choose and deliver a section of a cast-iron boiler to the address you specified, and then we make a replacement on our own. No effort is required from you. All work is included in the price. Additionally, a master can come to you to diagnose the boiler in order to detect problems in the operation of your heating equipment. Moreover, the arrival of the master will be completely free.

Inexpensive

We have affordable prices in Moscow to replace the cast-iron section of the Proterm boiler. The final cost will be determined after a complete inspection of your boiler, measuring the power of its operation, diagnosing connected communications.

Qualitatively

You clearly control the quality of the work of our masters. Therefore, if you are dissatisfied with our work, we are ready to correct our mistakes absolutely free of charge. At the same time, we carry out the replacement of the Proterm boiler section, taking into account all technical recommendations, norms and rules.

Safely

We take into account the weight of the equipment, the conditions of its subsequent operation, so all work is carried out in full compliance with safety regulations.

After replacing the cast-iron section of the Proterm boiler, we are ready to diagnose the operation of the heat exchanger by installing it in the boiler, debugging the operation of all systems. This guarantees long-term subsequent operation. In addition, we can diagnose and inspect the boiler for breakdowns completely, which will make it possible to repair the equipment in a timely manner. In addition, you can conclude an agreement with us for the systematic maintenance of the boiler, which will allow you to timely detect the problem at the stage of its occurrence.

When using household cast-iron gas boilers, a water leak often appears. The reason most often lies in the violation of the operating mode. What are the “risk factors” for accidental damage? What should be the repair?

Causes of damage to a cast-iron domestic boiler and replacement of defective sections

The technology for eliminating damage to the compartments of a cast-iron heat exchanger is dictated by its design. Prepair problemsolvedboiler section replacement . The heat exchanger is a prefabricated structure. The elements are assembled into a single unit by means of accessories (connecting conical nipples).Violation of the integrity of one of the sections leads to failure of the entire device. What are the causes of destructive deformations and heat exchanger leaks?

A bit of theory - what phenomena cause the destruction of the heat exchanger?

Heating devices made of cast iron are more durable than steel counterparts. Cast iron corrodes less aquatic environment. That's whygas boilers This material hardly rusts. However, cast iron (unlike steel) is more sensitive to local temperature peaks. The preservation of the physical properties of the structure is negatively affected by the effect of cold water on the heated metal.

The following situations occur when the service rules are violated:

Clogging of the device leads to overheating of individual small areas of the cast-iron surface.

Makeup for workinggas boiler cold coolant creates a temperature contrast.

Incorrect burner setting violates the overall thermal regime.

These phenomena lead to the emergence of the so-called. "thermal shock" of the metal. As a result, one or more elements are deformed relative to others or simply burst.

A common breakdown during operation is a leak of the device. There may be several reasons for this: a microcrack in the body of the structure, drying of the sealant. Then there is a needcast iron boiler section replacement . For repairs, it is better to invite specialists from a service organization. These companies carry out renovations on a regular basis. They have professional tools to assemble the devices.

Stages of bringing the heat exchanger into working condition (Instruction)

The refurbishment is done in stages. It begins with the diagnosis of the body of the structure and ends with testing and commissioning. Intermediate operations:

Dismantling of the casing and sectional disassembly;

And a coupler of all elements;

Connecting the device to the heating system;

Installation of outer cladding.

For diagnostics, the device is stopped. After cooling, the casing and the thermal insulation layer are dismantled. The nature of the damage and the number of compartments to be replaced is determined visually. If the leak is caused by a microcrack, and it is not possible to immediately detect the location of the defect, the water pressure is increased to 2 kg and left for a day.

Splitting into sections is carefully done mechanically.

At the same time, they try to hit only the defective element.

Followed byreplacement of cast iron boiler sections . Adjacent to the damaged elements are inspected for the timely detection of contamination. They are washed or replaced with new ones. Sometimes craftsmen decide to assemble the unit and then rinse it with water and chemicals.

Assembly of cast iron sections.

Before screeding, all contact surfaces of the elements with each other are carefully cleaned. The coolant passage path is sealed with new nipples and lubricated with a special paste. Afterboiler section replacement the smoke path is also compacted. To do this, cover the joints with mastic or tighten them with cords.

The screed is performed using a special tool.

It is very important not to skew and to accurately connect the sections.

When replacing several elements, they are added to the assembled structure strictly one at a time.

In the next step, the device is connected to the system and subject to pressure testing. For this operation, the maximum pressure allowed by the manufacturer is supplied to it. For each model, this parameter is indicated in the passport.

Required and without explicit violation of integrity. When the pressure of the coolant regularly drops in the device and it often has to be replenished with water. The reason for this behavior of the boiler is hidden in the appearance of microcracks in the furnace. At high temperatures, the liquid has time to evaporate and is removed with flue gases. Unstable operation is a good reason to contact the service department.

Often, homemade boilers are better than those made industrially.

This is due to the fact that not every design can be adjusted to the existing heating system, but it is quite easy to make a boiler from a cast-iron battery that matches it in its parameters.

Features of the structure of the boiler

The requirements for boilers by owners of private houses are simple:

It must be economical.
Possess very high level heat transfer.
Cost cheap.

Taking into account the fact that both gas boilers and the gas pipeline to the house cost a lot of money, and the subsequent gas payment will not bring savings either, wood-burning devices are installed in many private houses. The most efficient type of heater is a water boiler, which can not only heat a small Vacation home or cottage, but supply it with hot water.

A home-made boiler made of cast iron batteries is an excellent alternative to industrial units that are expensive and save little.

Its structure is such that a water boiler is built into an ordinary stove, which greatly increases its heat transfer, thereby reducing the cost of firewood, and heating the room almost instantly.

Preparatory work

Finding old Soviet cast-iron batteries is not a problem today. Dozens of them are demolished when the tenants apartment buildings change heating to more modern models, or when old buildings are demolished. The best option for the manufacture of the structure will be cast-iron radiators M-140.

In one section of the battery is placed up to 1.5 liters of water. The number of sections directly depends on what area the heating boiler from the cast-iron battery should heat. For example, for a house with an area of 100 m2, 12 sections with a total capacity of 18 liters and a size of 3 m2 will be required.

Before proceeding with the manufacture of the boiler, all sections of the radiator must be thoroughly washed from scale and dirt accumulated over long years operation. To do this, you can pour a 6% hydrochloric acid solution inside and hold it there for a while until it corrodes all deposits. After that, the solution is drained, and each section is thoroughly washed with water.

This procedure must be carried out slowly, with all precautions. Protective gloves must be worn on the hands and a respirator on the face. After all sections have gone through the cleaning process, you can begin to assemble the boiler from the cast-iron battery with your own hands.

Construction assembly

It is not difficult to assemble the radiators together, but you should first purchase new intersection gaskets or use an asbestos cord instead, impregnated with graphite powder, previously diluted in drying oil.

Since the temperature inside the boiler can exceed +600 degrees, it is worth taking care of the gaskets in advance. The tightness of the entire structure depends on their quality and strength.

The assembly sequence of radiators is as follows:

Nipples equipped with right and left threads are screwed into each section.
Asbestos cords are wound on them.
The sections are connected in pairs by alternately tightening the nipples. It is important to make the same number of turns with the key so as not to cause distortion.
All sections of the cast-iron radiator are connected in the same way.
The return and supply pipes should be connected diagonally, closing unused holes with plugs.

On one side of the riser there should be a right-hand thread, and on the other - a left-hand thread. If this does not work out, then you need to screw the nipple, and on it a coupling with a drive.

The location of the boiler in the furnace

It is important not only how they will be assembled and connected to heating system radiators, but also their place in the stove. In order for the device to work for a long time and efficiently, a boiler from a cast-iron radiator should be installed (the video shows how to do this) not in a furnace where wood or coal burns, which means that there is an open fire, but behind it in the smoke channel.

This will save the device and extend its service life, and heating with gases that are formed during the combustion of fuel is no worse than an open fire.

Cast iron is a fairly brittle metal, so no shocks, no extra pressure, no too high temperature he won't last. When installing the boiler from the radiator into the furnace, you need to make sure that the pipe at the exit from it was perpendicular to the floor, and the return pipe passed under the floor and the foundation of the structure.

After the boiler is installed, you can start laying the walls of the stove, after checking it for leaks. To do this, you need to run water through the system under pressure.

Furnace masonry

The oven can be built independently, following the sequence of actions.

The first is the laying of the foundation of the structure, made of reinforced concrete.
For masonry the best option the solution will be a mixture of two portions of sand and a portion of clay. To mix them better, experienced builders recommend soaking the materials in water and leaving them overnight. During this period, they mix well without additional effort on the part of the owner.
When the foundation is ready, it should be covered with waterproofing, for which you can use roofing material.
A layer of mortar is placed on top of the waterproofing, the uniformity of which is best checked with a plumb line.
The first masonry should form a blower, over which a grate is installed that separates it from the firebox. The lattice is fastened through 2-3 masonry above the blower.
In the process of forming the furnace, a place is immediately prepared for the boiler from cast-iron batteries, taking into account the gaps between it and the outer wall of the stove. To do this, a side of bricks is laid out along the perimeter, on which the corners are attached. It is on them that the boiler will be installed.
When carrying out masonry, you need to take care in advance of the places where the supply and return pipes will exit.
The next step is laying the chimney. During this work, special channels are formed for the discharge of burning and combustion waste through them.

After finishing the laying of the chimney, the entire furnace must be checked for the quality of work, for which it is flooded.

It is never necessary to heat the stove if there is no coolant in the boiler. This may crash the system. You can think over and build a structure that will work both as a heating system and as a stove for cooking.

After completing all the steps step by step, it is quite possible to build a stove with a water boiler from cast-iron batteries with your own hands.

Frequent make-up, underheating, burst heat exchanger section

In the lexicon of service engineers, “feeding” is the process of restoring the pressure of the coolant in the heating system. To understand how often frequent replenishment negatively affects the operation of equipment, it should be noted that water contains hardness salts. Hard water is water that contains dissolved calcium and magnesium salts. When water is heated, salts form scale, and if the water has a high content of these salts, then a precipitate forms. These processes are harmful to heat exchangers, boilers, pipes or water heaters, because the heat exchange process is disturbed because of this. Conclusion: the more make-up, the more hardness salts will enter the boiler and the heating system with water, which, when the coolant is heated, will settle on the inner walls of the boiler heat exchanger and pipes of the heating system. As a result, there is a high probability that salt precipitation will cause failure of the heat exchanger sections (Fig. 1).

Consider a typical situation on the example of floor-standing boilers with a cast-iron heat exchanger: Eurobongas, Hola, Idea Bongioni. Some installation organizations install the heating system in such a way that the heating system is fed into the return line of the heating system (i.e. “into the return line”) at a distance of less than 1 m from the boiler. This installation method can be called incorrect with all responsibility. In this case, the probability of failure of the heat exchanger sections increases. Let's take a look at a few situations.

Imagine that the boiler is winter time years heated the coolant to 80-90°C. At this point, for some reason, the pressure in the heating system drops. The boiler remains heated, and the owner of the boiler or a responsible person, in order to create a working pressure, feeds the heating system. The inlet water temperature is 5 °C. Since the make-up is made "in the return" and is located in the immediate vicinity of the boiler, cold water enters the heated heat exchanger. There is a sharp temperature drop, as a result of which cracks can form in the cast iron - the metal from which the heat exchanger sections are made. As a result, there is a high probability that the heat exchanger will burst and the coolant will leak.

For unknown reasons, there is a frequent drop in the pressure of the coolant in the heating system, respectively, and the system is often replenished. Depending on the level of water hardness, a new portion of calcium and magnesium salts enters the heat exchanger and heating system, which are deposited on the walls of the heat exchanger and pipes. At a certain point during the operation of the equipment, due to the high thermal resistance of the scale layer, a temperature distortion (temperature shock) may occur. As a result, the body of the heat exchanger overheats and it collapses. All these situations convince us that it is more logical to “feed” the heating system into the supply line, and also to exclude the possibility of frequent recharge.

Due to a sharp temperature drop in the metal from which the heat exchanger sections are made, cracks form

Replacing sections in a floor-standing boiler with a cast-iron heat exchanger

If the heat exchanger still fails, then the replacement of its sections is inevitable. Consider, using a specific example of the Idea Bongioni boiler, step by step how to replace the heat exchanger sections.

Turn off the electricity, dismantle the casing, gas block with burner, control panel, disconnect the chimney.
Locate (locate) the damaged section.
Empty the boiler and disconnect it from the system.
Place the boiler on a stand so that the damaged section is suspended.
Remove the tie rods.
Remove the damaged section with a lever or by gently tapping with a chisel and hammer.
Remove the connecting nipples.
Install the rest of the heat exchanger so that it is convenient to connect it to the new section, and if the heat exchanger is completely disassembled, then it is necessary to support the rear section on a special stand (Fig. 2), and as a stand, you can use, for example, a wooden board.
Lubricate the new nipples with red lead grease and install the dismantled ones in place (Fig. 2, item 1), carefully monitoring their correct location and having previously cleaned the seat.
Along the perimeter of the section, in special recesses, it is necessary to apply silicone. If silicone is not available, a high temperature automotive sealant that can withstand 360°C can be used.
Install the first middle section behind the rear section on the nipple, tapping evenly and gently with a wooden mallet.
Using a tie tool, pull the sections together until they are fully connected (Fig. 3).
Install the other two nipples and assemble the boiler in the same sequence.
After assembling all sections (the entire heat exchanger), make a control tie with a tie tool and install the tie rods (Fig. 4).
Carry out a final hydrotest of the heat exchanger.

"Make-up" is the process of restoring the pressure of the coolant in the heating system

How to get rid of the smell of carbon monoxide in the room

There are no problems with the boiler under normal operating conditions of the floor equipment. During scheduled maintenance, the intersection space may not even be inspected by a service engineer. But operating conditions can change, especially if the rules are violated. supply and exhaust ventilation. If it does not meet the standards or is absent at all, then air exchange is disturbed in the room where the boiler is installed.

This reduces the oxygen content, which leads to poor combustion of gas in the boiler, which releases an increased amount of carbon.

Composition is changing flue gases, and as a result, deposition of slag (a mixture of carbon and dust) occurs in the intersectional space. This process is lengthy. In some cases, as practice shows, it can take place within a year, or even more. The first sign of slag formation is the smell of carbon monoxide in the room. Determining such a problem is quite simple. To do this, it is necessary to remove the upper casing panels, under which (in the front and rear parts of the boiler) two inspection hatches will be clearly visible, each of which is fastened with four screws.

By opening one of these hatches, we will gain access to the intersection space.

Visually, you can determine the state of the intersectional space and whether it needs to be cleaned. If the intersection space is clogged with slag, it is necessary to start the process of cleaning it. To do this, it is necessary to dismantle the second hatch, as well as the boiler burner. For cleaning, you will need a special brush (in the absence of a brush, you can use a thin metal rod), a vacuum cleaner, a flashlight, thick cardboard. After dismantling the hatches and the burner, install a thick cardboard inside the boiler instead of the burner. During the cleaning process, most of the slag will fall onto this cardboard.

After installing the cardboard, use a brush (rod) and a vacuum cleaner to remove the slag from the intersection space. A flashlight will come in handy while cleaning. It is best to place it at the bottom of the boiler so that it illuminates the firebox. After cleaning the intersection space, carefully remove the cardboard with slag, dispose of it and evaluate the quality of work. Finally, after finishing work, assemble the dismantled parts of the boiler and test the equipment.

Checking the flow of sanitary water

Imagine that you are faced with a situation at the site where the boiler - in our example, the Habitat boiler - does not switch to hot water mode due to poor water flow. At the same time, the flow in the cold water tap is quite high. You have made sure that water is supplied to the boiler under the required pressure, and it comes out of the mixer in a thin stream. What is the reason? In the deposits of hardness salts in the heat exchanger? Or some external factor?

To check the flow directly at the outlet of the boiler, it is necessary to dismantle the outlet pipeline from the boiler hot water. According to the rules, in this case, the participation of the installation organization is necessary. But there is an opportunity to do it on your own. To do this, it is necessary to close the valve on the cold water supply pipe to the boiler, then dismantle the hot water outlet pipe from the heat exchanger (the NTS sensor of the DHW circuit is located on it). This pipe must be turned so that its other end, which is screwed to the DHW group with a union nut, turns horizontally to the right by 180° (Fig. 5). At the same time, it will exit the boiler. This tube must be fixed again in the heat exchanger. Then place a water container under the tube and open the valve on the cold water supply pipe to the boiler.

In this case, you will see with which flow the water for the needs of domestic hot water comes out of the boiler. Knowing the water pressure or flow at the inlet to the boiler, you can draw the appropriate conclusions. For example, at the inlet to the boiler, the water pressure and its flow comply with the requirements specified in technical specifications equipment, and at the outlet of the boiler, the water pressure drops and the flow decreases sharply. This means that, most likely, the bithermic heat exchanger was covered with salt deposits.

If the pressure and water flow at the inlet and outlet of the boiler does not change, it is necessary to look for external causes of a weak water flow at the mixer. The entire described process should be carried out with the sanitary water flow regulator in the boiler fully open.