How to cover clematis for the winter? Clematis: planting and care Planting young clematis plants.

Clematis are favorites among garden vines. Delicious large flowers, graceful shoots and bright greens make them stand out from any exotic and the most lush partner. Clematis will not get lost even against the backdrop of magnificent climbing roses, and in many respects it is thanks to their self-sufficiency that they have become their main partners. But no matter how beautiful clematis are, many refuse to grow talented climbers because of their capriciousness. The difficulties of growing clematis are associated not only with care, but also with the need to carefully prepare them for winter. Clematis can endure the conditions of the middle lane only if a reliable shelter is created. And for different clematis it is created according to different rules.

Clematis (Clematis). © dobbies

Winter care is the first step to success

Preparation of clematis for winter begins in August. If care is not corrected in time and the necessary measures are not taken, then magnificent climbers simply will not have time to prepare for future cold weather.

The main measures for the care of clematis of the preparatory period include the following steps:

1. From August, it is necessary to adjust top dressing and even for plants that continue to bloom or bloom late, completely abandon the use of nitrogen fertilizers (including complete mineral mixtures that include nitrogen).
2. In September, for all clematis, a mandatory “strengthening” top dressing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers is carried out, which is designed for better ripening of shoots and preparation for winter.
3. About a month or at least a few weeks before the arrival of stable frosts, when the cold weather is already below 10 degrees Celsius, you need to prune.

The need for clematis pruning in the fall is determined by the type of flowering and the characteristics of specific varieties:

1. clematis, blooming only on the shoots of the current year, need full pruning in the fall (these include clematis of the Jacqueman, Vititsella, Integrifolia groups);
2. clematis that bloom only on the shoots of the previous year do not form in autumn and cut off only slightly, keeping the shoots and flower buds on next year(strongly tall clematis, forms of mountain, alpine, large-cup, golden clematis);
3. clematis that can bloom twice need a slight but mandatory pruning (they include most of the clematis of the Lanuginoza, Patens, Florida groups).

There is no unambiguous opinion whether it is worth separating the second and third types of clematis in pruning. Firstly, there are many exceptions among individual varieties of clematis groups. Secondly, in fact, almost all clematis, which are classified as species that bloom only on last year's branches, actually bloom on both overwintered and young shoots - after they ripen in the second half of the season, flowers bloom on them (although not to the same extent). And pruning according to the principle of re-blooming clematis is quite suitable for both groups. But it is generally accepted to single out exactly three trimming groups, although the difference between the second and third is insignificant.

Without exception, all clematis need sanitary pruning and cleaning. Regardless of which shoots clematis blooms on and whether formative pruning will be carried out in the fall, on all bushes:

• remove all dry leaves, carefully collecting them from the soil under the vine and immediately destroying them;
• carry out cutting of all dry shoots;
• carefully examine the branches and cut off damaged, with signs of disease or too weak, thickening, unproductive shoots.

Pruning in varieties that bloom on the shoots of the current year is not carried out exactly according to the same rules. For representatives of clematis of the Vititsella and Zhakman groups, pruning in the fall is carried out literally on the entire aerial part, leaving short stumps just above the soil - cutting off to the first on the shoots of a real leaf, leaving one pair of strong buds. Clematis of the Integrifolia group, Texas, six-petal, straight and Manchurian are best cut, leaving not one, but two pairs of buds, to stumps 10-15 cm high. When buying clematis, it is better to clarify what height to leave the stumps, but you can resort to standard pruning on 1-2 pairs of kidneys.

In clematis, which can bloom only on short overwintered shoots, if you do not save the crown for the winter, flowering will not occur or will begin very late, at the end of the season and will be weaker. These clematis do not need to maintain the full length of the branches, but pruning is carried out immediately after flowering, and not before winter: the branches are slightly shortened, cutting off the crown, the faded part, stimulating the formation of a powerful growth that will bloom next year. If desired, shoots can be left without pruning at all, but this will affect flowering. As part of pruning before winter, such clematis are only “cleaned”.

In today's very fashionable varietal large-flowered clematis with repeated flowering, the best clematis of the Patens, Lanuginoza and Florida groups are pruned, but the branches are only slightly shortened, leaving at least 10-15 knots (pruning is approximately at a level of 1-1.5 m). Usually, all shoots are shortened by a third, but it is better to specify the specific parameters and timing of pruning for each plant (sometimes another option is recommended - pruning after each wave by a third of the length of the branches).

Today, the method of partially rejuvenating, or universal pruning, is also popular: shoots on any clematis, except for those that bloom only on the shoots of the current year, can be carried out through one branch, maintaining a height of up to 1.5 m in half of the shoots, and shortening the others to a pair of buds.

If you do not know what type of clematis your plant belongs to and what kind of pruning it needs, then it is best to leave it to hibernate with shoots. Already in the spring, by whether your clematis has dry lashes or “live” shoots with buds left after the winter, you will understand which group of varieties your vine belongs to and how to proceed.

The last step before actually sheltering for the winter for clematis is preventive treatment. It is carried out in October, after the establishment of stable cold weather (after the first frosts, but without waiting for stable night frosts). It is advisable to treat the soil at the base of the bush with fungicides that prevent the spread of fungal diseases, and then powder with wood ash. The classic choice is a solution of 20 g of foundationol per 1 bucket of water. You can do without such treatment, but if you have the opportunity to take action or if the plants were sick before, are in the neighborhood of infected crops, then the above simple measures will help to avoid problems in the future.

Differences in winter hardiness and type of shelter for different types of clematis

The modern assortment of clematis is so large that in matters of winter hardiness of a particular plant, you should not rely only on general information. When buying, be sure to specify the degree of endurance of a particular variety and the shelter required for it. Even some classic varieties may surprise you unpleasantly. This information must be verified. An important role in the endurance of clematis is played by the region of cultivation, their acclimatization, adaptability to a particular climate. Seedlings that you do not purchase from local nurseries and garden centers, even with high base hardiness, may suffer from frost in your area. Clematis is characterized by a very simple pattern: the more “complex” the flowers of the variety, the rarer it is and the more “elite”, the worse it winters and the more reliably it needs to be covered. Species clematis are more hardy than varietal ones, and old varieties are more winter-hardy than new ones. For cultivation in regions with severe winters, it is better to choose clematis that bloom early or in the middle, and not late varieties (they simply do not have time to ripen before the onset of cold weather). AT middle lane clematis blooming on the shoots of the current year (Vititsella, Jacqueman and Integrifolia groups) and non-double varieties show themselves better (in terry, only a few flowers correspond to the standard, and even then, provided that last year's shoots are preserved for the winter under cover). Subject to careful shelter, varieties more suitable for the south will also be able to overwinter, but even in this case it is better to try to buy plants that have already been adapted to your region.

What kind of shelter the clematis will need is directly affected by the pruning of the plant and the type of flowering. Clematis, which are cut for the winter to the level of the soil or short stumps, need not very simple, but only hilling. But the species and varieties that need to save shoots require a completely different approach. For such clematis, the shelter actually resembles a shelter for climbing roses, with the creation of a full-fledged air-dry protection. Species clematis are usually covered in the same way as clematis blooming on the shoots of the current year.

Features of clematis shelter

Clematis, despite all the stereotypes, not so much needs protection from frost, but from moisture. This is one of the most sensitive to winter waterlogging and warming. garden plants, the shelter of which should be not just insulating, but dry. It should protect the rhizome and shoots, if they are left for the winter, from precipitation, melt water, any possible wetting of the base of the bush and the surface of the soil around the clematis, as well as icing as a result of contrasts between night frosts and periods of thaw during the day (the bushes are literally torn, completely destroyed tillering center and roots).

The timing of the shelter of clematis is very strictly limited. And you need to focus not on specific calendar periods, but on air temperature. It is finally possible to cover clematis only when the process of soil freezing begins, the air temperature drops to 5-6 degrees below zero. In a normal autumn, clematis cover only in November. But we are talking about the main measures for wrapping. It is better to start preparing in advance, back in October. As soon as the first night frosts pass, the bushes are spudded to a height of about 10-15 cm. With such light protection, stable frosts are expected, with the arrival of which a full-fledged shelter is carried out. Please note that you can cover clematis only on dry, fine days.

With proper shelter, carried out not too early, with protection from moisture, clematis can withstand frosts down to minus 45 degrees. Even if clematis falls out after winter and does not show signs of life, it is not worth rushing to remove the rhizome from the soil and throw it away for two to three years: sometimes dormant vegetative buds on the plant remain even with very severe damage and they need a lot of time to release new shoots . Sometimes clematis come to life after a few years.

Shelter for clematis blooming on current year's shoots

Clematis, from which only short stumps are left for the winter or the bushes are completely cut to the soil level, do not need complex shelter, but hilling. But a modest addition of soil to the base of the bushes is not enough: the clematis of the Vititsella, Jacqueman and Integrifolia groups need to create a large mound layer, which completely eliminates the risk of getting wet. 3-4 buckets of dry earth or peat are poured to each bush, creating a mound with a height of 60 cm or more around the bushes. Both humus and compost can be used as hilling materials, but for clematis better fit more free-flowing and less sagging material. In combination with snow cover, such hilling is quite enough to completely protect the vines. If there is a little snowy winter, then you need to redistribute the snow on the site and add it to the clematis, creating a layer of snow on your own. If there is no snow at all, then it can be replaced with spruce branches.

If the plant is young, with low or dubious winter hardiness, then after hilling it can be additionally protected with an air-dry shelter by placing a box on top, falling asleep with leaves and wrapping it with burlap, roofing felt or film.

Shelter of clematis blooming on last year's shoots

Even after shortening to a meter height, the shoots of clematis groups of Patens, Florida and Lanuginoza will not be so easy to save for the winter. These clematis need more serious shelter. It is created according to the so-called air-dry method:

1. Peat or dry soil is sprinkled to the base of the bush, creating a standard mound. Rodent baits are set around the plant, which are very attracted to warm wraps around vines in winter.
2. Spruce branches or boards are laid around the bush, creating a dry base (you can, in extreme cases, lay foam plastic, pour a layer of dry leaves about 5-7 cm, use not spruce branches, but brushwood, etc.).
3. The shoots are twisted and laid on the base.
4. On top of the shoots, wooden shields, reed or reed mats, wicker wattle, wooden boxes or other insulating material (if it is not possible to create an air gap, bricks or stones must be placed under the shields, lifting them above the plant).
5. From above, an insulating layer is created from non-woven material, film or roofing material, securely fixing them and leaving holes for ventilation.
6. A snow cover is a sufficient measure for wintering, but if there is no snow and it cannot be applied, then it is advisable to lay spruce branches on top of the film or create an additional layer of soil, brushwood, peat.

Alternative hiding methods:

1. the shoots are wrapped with non-woven material, laid on a base of boards or spruce branches, covered with dry leaves, and a layer of reed mats, shields, slate or roofing felt is laid on top of the bush;
2. boxes are installed around the bushes or a frame is constructed from pegs, on which roofing felt or other covering materials can be pulled, creating a kind of frame.

During periods of prolonged thaw, on warm days, it is advisable to ventilate the shelter for clematis.

Rules for removing shelter from clematis

Unraveling clematis is worth doing as soon as warm weather sets in, even if stable night frosts remain. Clematis are much more afraid of damping and thaw than frost, and bushes should be given access to fresh air as soon as possible. Traditionally, unraveling of clematis begins in April, and ends only in May. Gradual adaptation is also needed to accustom plants to the sun.

Clematis in spring. © Racquel

Shelter is removed in several stages, each divided into 2-3 days or a week in time. The first step should be the opening of ventilation holes on warm days, the removal of the film and the top layer of the shelter is started only after the threat of severe night frosts and snow has disappeared. Shields are left for a week after removing the film or roofing material.

Do not rush to remove hilling from bushes: let the plants first adapt to new conditions, and then remove only part of the peat or earth. Leave a light pile until the night frost has completely disappeared.

The most decorative of flowering climbing plants are clematis. They appeared in our gardens recently, and so far few summer residents have learned to grow them. So this year, most gardeners clematis froze. And who did not freeze - rotted or sick. If you want to enjoy healthy clematis blooming in full force next summer, plant them correctly, and better right now. Support and support Curly clematis can climb to a height of up to four meters. But if you let them cling to the support themselves, it will be difficult to remove the lashes and cover them for the winter. By the way, many gardeners leave clematis to winter on the wall, which for them is tantamount to death: these plants are southern, heat-loving, it is necessary to securely cover them from the cold. Clematis decorate the walls of houses, gazebos, arches - this is one of the best plants for vertical gardening. But they should not be planted close to the wall, but at such a distance that the spring drops and rainwater from the roof they did not hit the whips. Otherwise, clematis can be affected by root rot. It was because of her that the plants planted in the spring died in June. Clematis in general often get sick and are affected by pests, and if they are poorly looked after, misfortunes cannot be avoided. Now, for example, you can see how the leaves of clematis wither and turn into rags. This is a viral disease that can be fought only by cutting off the affected shoots below ground level. Previously, the plant must be treated with Bordeaux liquid. The same remedy will help powdery mildew in which the leaves turn brown and dry. Deep Dive Now you can plant clematis in pots and containers, and in the fall transplant to permanent place. This place must be sunny, with a lack of light, clematis grow poorly and do not bloom. The soil should be clay or loamy, saturated with organic fertilizers, moderately moist and not acidic. Planting depth is very important. The pit should be like for berry bushes: 70 centimeters deep and the same diameter. At the bottom it is necessary to pour a 15-centimeter layer of rubble, then a mixture of fertile soil with humus and peat, and pour a two-kilogram bag of special flower soil under each plant. It is necessary to plant flowers without deepening the basal neck. If you plant clematis too deep, it will grow slowly and bloom poorly. But at proper fit and good care Clematis shoots grow 10-15 cm per day. And you need to take care of clematis like this: water, stepping back from the stem by 15-20 cm, keep the same distance when fertilizing. Be sure to cut the lashes: cut out the weak, sick and those that thicken the plant. Without pruning, clematis does not produce new shoots and, accordingly, flowers. Reproduction with love Now clematis can be propagated by layering, like currants. Dig a long groove 7 centimeters deep, lay the shoot in it so that the leaves stick out and the nodes are in the soil. To prevent the shoot from popping out, pin it in several places with aluminum wire. Tie the top of the shoot (15 cm) to a peg for strength. Next spring, cut the layers and plant them in a permanent place in August. Before flowering, clematis can be propagated by cuttings. Cuttings are cut from shoots no older than three years. When planting cuttings, it is necessary to press the nodes well to the damp ground, and leave the leaves on the surface. To retain moisture, the planted plant is covered with a glass jar. For the winter, clematis should be well insulated. Cut the shoots of the current year at the end of October, leaving 2-3 knots, cover with sawdust, shavings or dry peat, cover with a box, and pour humus, sawdust, dry leaves on top and cover the entire structure with spruce branches from mice. Last year's shoots are cut off before wintering, leaving lashes 1.5 meters long, removed from the support and laid on a 10-centimeter layer of sawdust or needles. From above they cover with foliage or sawdust (25 cm), press it with spruce branches and cover with a film so that water drains. In early spring, open the clematis, remove the mulch and inspect the shoots. Even if they are frozen - it does not matter, they will bloom a little later. The main thing is that the root system is well preserved in such a shelter.

There were different opinions about the ability of clematis to endure winter cold in the history of culture. Some flower growers argued that the overwintering of clematis in Russia in open field impossible. In 1862, V. Yermolaich wrote: “Unfortunately, our climatic conditions lead to the fact that garden clematis growing in England on the ground can only be grown in our greenhouses and have neither the strength of development nor the usefulness of application that they achieve in Western Europe.

According to others, "It is possible to grow clematis in the garden, but only with strong shelter for the winter" (Klinge J., 1883; Vaigla A., 1982).

Modern flower growers have proven that clematis, with proper (deep) planting, can be grown even without shelter for the winter of the northern regions.

With proper agricultural technology, plants ripen well by autumn, harden and winter well under light cover.

To establish winter hardiness and frost resistance in the conditions of the Baltic States (Latvia), clematis were left without shelter for the winter for two years in a row. The following results were obtained: without frost damage, all shoots overwintered in the species A. alpina L., A. sibirica L., C. serratifolia Rehd., C. vitalba L., in varieties Fargesioides, Jeanne d "Arc, Miss Bateman; upper part of shoots (1-1.2 m above the soil) was frozen in varieties Duchess of Edinburgh, Lawsoniana, Yellow Queen; shoots were frozen to the level of snow, but under the snow all shoots were preserved in many varieties of clematis, for example, in Barbara Dibley, Comtesse de Bouchaud, Daniel Deronda, Lasurstern, Margot Koster, Mrs. Cholmondeley, Nelly Moser, The President, Victoria, etc. In a small part of the clematis shoots died under the snow, but the bushes grew from dormant buds in the center of the tillering.These are varieties of Ernest Markham, Gipsy Queen, Star of India, Madame Baron Veillard, Marie Boisselot, Venosa Violacea.

The clematis that grew near the walls of the house were even less damaged by frost.

The least frost-resistant shoots of clematis of the third pruning group, that is, in which flowers develop on the shoots of the current year and which are recommended to be cut in autumn. At the same time, frost does not cause any harm to plants, but works instead of a gardener.

The shoots of varieties of the first pruning group, in which flowers develop on the shoots of the previous year, are relatively frost-resistant and winter without much damage. If last year's shoots are damaged by frost, the shoots of the current year bloom, but only a little later.

As you can see, frost for clematis is not particularly dangerous. The main thing is to keep the tillering center, then the plant renews and blooms well every year.

Before sheltering clematis for the winter, it is useful to remember that frost is not always their enemy. It is beneficial, as it contributes to the death of pests, the improvement of soil structure, the transition of plants to deep dormancy.

At a temperature of about 0 ° C, the nutrients from the leaves and the upper part of the shoots pass into the buds, so do not rush to cut the leaves and shoots early in the fall. When the temperature drops to -2 ... -5 ° C, the water content in the cells decreases, the activity physiological processes, which is characteristic of the dormant period. If climatic conditions are favorable for hardening before winter, then wintering of clematis goes well.

To save nutrients in plants for the winter in late autumn, it is desirable to stop their flowering and growth, which must be provided for even during the growing season - fertilize correctly, cut, remove fruits in time, pinch growing shoots in autumn, etc.

Before shelter, it is important to consider the frost resistance of different varieties of clematis. Although there is no data on this, there are separate observations, which are outlined below. According to M. A. Beskaravaina et al. (1978, 1982), C. glauca Willd, C. heracleifolia DC., C. ligusticifolia Nutt. C. serratifolia Rehd., C. virginiana L.; from -23 to -25 °C - C. songarica Bunge., C. asplenifolia Schrenk., C. brevicaudata DC., C. fruticosa Turez., C. isphahanica Boiss., C. tangutica (Maxim.) Korsh., cultivar Jackmanii; from -17 to -19 °C - C. flammula L., C. orientalis L., C. vitalba L., C. viticella L., cultivars Splashes of the Sea, Fargesioides. According to the observations of the mentioned authors, in Yalta clematis freely tolerate frosts from -14 to -15 ° C without damage.

In the conditions of the Moscow region, clematis, according to S. S. Osipov (1980), without shelter in 1975/76 and 1976/77. suffered frosts of -30.2 and -25.5 °C. All clematis and atragens overwintered well: A. alpina L., A. sibirica L., C. brevicaudata DC., C. fusca Turcz., C. serratifolia Rehd., C. tangutica (Mahim.) Korsh., C. vitalba L., C. viticella L., cultivar Jackmanii. They have partially frozen only shoots (up to the level of snow or to the base of the bush).

Before shelter, clematis bushes are pruned depending on the pruning group. If it is unknown, leave part of the shoots 40-60 cm high. To get rid of fungal diseases, it is necessary to remove the leaves and dead parts of old or diseased

shoots at the base of the bush. The root neck can be sprayed with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid, 2% iron sulfate, or covered with sand, to which ash can be added (250 hna a bucket of sand) until the soil is frozen. Shoots are sprayed and bent down. You can dig shoots in a shallow (5-8 cm) groove, fill them with sand and soil (as when propagating by layering). You can spread the shoots on the surface of the soil, putting spruce branches under them and on top. This will protect the bushes from damage by mice. In addition, the needles emit phytoncides and do not cake. In areas with constant snow cover, the shoots only bend down. In the Baltic states, where thaws are observed several times during the winter, shoots are covered with dry peat, sawdust or other material and covered with plastic wrap. With such a shelter, the buds do not freeze out, they germinate more amicably in the spring, the shoots bloom profusely and early.

Varieties belonging to the Jackmanii, Viticella, Recta and other groups overwinter well, where it is not necessary to save last year's shoots. Hilling the root neck with soil (20-30 cm) protects the buds from freezing, but it is better to use dry peat or sawdust for this, although even bare clematis rarely freezes out (only 3 bushes died over a 20-year observation period).

Often, flower growers remove shoots from supports or make supports that can be lowered to the ground with all shoots, cover them with a film on top and leave them like that until spring. If the leaves are not infected with fungal diseases, as it was at the beginning of the development of the culture, this method is quite acceptable. Otherwise, spores from fallen leaves will infect the soil or mulch material. In spring, spores germinate and infect young shoots. In mid-July or early August, the leaves turn yellow, the shoots wither. To prevent this from happening, in the fall it is necessary to remove the fallen leaves and burn them.

For clematis, waterlogging of the soil in winter is more dangerous than low temperatures. At the same time, anaerobic conditions are created in the soil, which makes it difficult for the roots to breathe. But much more dangerous during overwintering for plants is the mechanical effect of ice, which breaks the roots and destroys the tillering center. In the Baltics, this was observed in the winter of 1985/86. Then the ground was deeply frozen; in spring, after frequent thaws during the day and night frosts, a thick layer of ice formed over the soil even under cover. As a result, the lower part of the shoots and the center of clematis tillering were mechanically damaged. But even under such extreme conditions, a very small number of the weakest plants completely died (about 0.8%). In a fairly large part (about 30%), growth began 2 weeks later. Growth was delayed for a whole month in 18% of plants, and only in 0.3% of plants growth began only in the middle of summer. Despite the fact that the tillering centers were badly destroyed, the bushes grew back. But it took from 0.5 to 2 months to restore the lost vegetative organs. The remaining plants (48%), which were little exposed to ice, grew and bloomed normally. The microrelief in clematis plantations should also help protect plants from excessive soil moisture in winter. To do this, make a slight slope for water runoff or pour ridges.

Proper deep planting, when the tillering center is at a depth of 8 to 15 cm, protects it from frost. This is also facilitated by mulching the soil over the roots of clematis (8-15 cm).

Frequent thaws in winter lead to disruption of the dormant period. sometimes warm long autumn shoots 5-10 cm long grow from the buds. They usually die in winter. And although reserve buds sprout in plants in spring, from which new shoots are formed, flowering will be weak and late.

As spring approaches, the deep period of dormancy gradually ends, and frost resistance decreases. Therefore, in the spring, the plant must be gradually released from the shelter: first, the plastic film is removed, then the substrate layer. The spruce branches or part of the peat must be left until the end of the period of night frosts. Then the shoots are carefully lifted and evenly distributed on the supports, the soil is leveled over the center of tillering, leaving a layer of 5-8 cm. direct sunlight, wind and changing night and day temperatures.

Night frosts above 5°C can damage young shoots. If only their ends are damaged, instead of one shoot, even two are formed, but flowering is two weeks late. Proper overwintering and timely removal of shelter is the key to a successful start to the new vegetative season.

Clematis are becoming more and more popular with Russian gardeners. With their help, you can decorate nondescript walls, fences and even trees.

When growing flowers in regions with a cold climate, care must be taken to prepare them for the winter. The root system of clematis is resistant to frost when properly planted. If it is good to deepen the root neck, then he will be able to spend the winter under any covering material.

Much more dangerous for clematis, as for most plants, are thaws and subsequent frosts. In such situations, ice can form in the soil, which damages the root system.

Therefore, during preparation for winter, one should not only protect the bushes from the cold, but also from the ingress of moisture into the root system. If the water freezes in the root neck, then the plant may die because of this.

With its elegant and to some extent even exotic appearance, clematis is unpretentious. If you provide him proper care, then it can please flowering up to 20 years.

In some cases, gardeners are faced with the problem that clematis does not bloom or freezes out. However, after careful study of the characteristics of the plant, the risk of this is reduced to a minimum.

It should be noted that wild-growing types of clematis are able to bloom at temperatures up to -12 degrees. Therefore, the death or absence of flowering may occur due to violations of agricultural technology. For example, the wrong choice of variety and place for planting, improper pruning and shelter for the winter.

When choosing a variety and type of clematis, special attention should be paid to the climate. It is especially important what winters are like in your area of ​​residence.

According to the timing of flowering, clematis are divided into early, medium and late flowering. They are also divided into groups that bloom on the shoots of last year, this year and combined (bloom on last year's shoots and fresh growth).

For growing in climates with severe winters, early and mid-early varieties. Preference should be given to species that bloom mainly on the shoots of the current year.

Siberian, Okhotsk and Alpine are species that can survive wintering even in cold climates without shelter. These clematis bloom with small flowers on last year's shoots.

The following varieties are suitable for growing in temperate climates:

• The president;
• Ballerina;
• Joan of Arc;
• Frey Rosamund;
• Pennel.

These varieties bloom twice a year. For the first time on last year's shoots, and the second - at the end of summer on young shoots. This is what makes them so popular with gardeners. If last year's shoots freeze, flowering will be on a young growth.

Clematis species from the Vititsella, Jackmani and Lanuginose groups, as well as varieties that bloom exclusively on last year's shoots, are best grown in mild climates. And even then, they need shelter. After all, the preservation of last year's shoots is a prerequisite for abundant flowering.

Clematis - preparation for winter

Not many people know that it is possible to partially protect clematis from frost even when planting. To do this, it is necessary to deepen the neck of the plant by 10 - 12 cm. If the plant is young or weakened, then by 8 - 10 cm.

1 trim group

This group includes varieties of clematis that bloom on last year's shoots. The most common types and varieties:

• Patents;
• Florida;
• grape-leaved;
• burning;
• Alpine;
• mountain;
• princes.

When growing plants of this group, annual pruning of shoots is not carried out. After flowering, only those parts on which seeds are formed are removed. If the plant is too dense, then the weakest branches are cut to the base. In this case, young shoots will grow in their place.

Varieties of this group are most common in central Russia. The bush hibernates without shelter right on the support. All that needs to be done is to spud the base of the bush. They do this so that in the event of the death of last year's shoots from the root collar, the branches will be re-branched. It is necessary to spud to a height of 30 - 40 centimeters. You can use dry leaves, grass, sawdust, peat or humus for this.

2 trim group

This pruning group includes plants that bloom both on young shoots of the current year and last year's. The most common groups of varieties Lanuginose and paniculate. On last year's shoots, flowering occurs in late May - early June. More abundant flowering begins from July to autumn on young shoots.

These groups are trimmed in two steps. The first time pruning is done in the summer. To do this, cut off the faded part of the plant. If the bush is thick, then last year's shoots are cut to the ground. In autumn, parts of the shoots with seeds are cut off on the growth of the current year.

If spring flowering is not expected, then you can cut the shoots to the ground. If in the spring they want to get abundant flowering, then they are cut to the first leaf. This type of pruning is called combined.

Plants of the second group should be prepared for the winter more carefully. First you need to cut the branches at a height of 1 - 1.5 m. Remove dry leaves and remove the plant from the support. At the same time, try not to damage the whip.

The next step is to cover the base of the bush to a height of up to 40 cm with dry grass, leaves, peat or just earth. Next, twist the lashes into a ring and lay them on the ground. From above, once again cover the plants with dry leaves or grass.

The shelter should be completed with lutrasil in two additions. With this approach, the plant winters well even in severe frosts.

3 trim group

The third group includes plants that bloom exclusively on young shoots. The most common varieties of this group are Integrifol, Vititsella, Zhakman, virginsky clematis.

Clematis of this group bloom from July to September. Pruning this group of plants is the easiest. Before shelter for the winter, all shoots are cut to the ground.

In the spring, be sure to prune dead and weak shoots. In this case, the bush will be strong and have abundant flowering.

Clematis of the third group winters well even without shelter. But if the winters are too harsh, then after pruning (by 15 - 20 cm), the bushes should be covered with dry leaves, peat or earth.

And what will the winter be like?

Many gardeners are interested in the question - what kind of winter awaits them and plants. If you are careful, you can predict it. There are a small number of signs that in most cases come true:

• if there are few mushrooms or they are not at all, then the winter will be mild;
• a cold winter should be expected if the bow dries for a long time and there are a lot of cups-clothes on it;
• a large harvest of mountain ash (especially in the forest) also portends a harsh winter;
• if the trees have not shed their leaves before the end of November, then the winter will be warm;
• if the snow has fallen, and the leaves have not fallen from the cherry trees, then it will melt;
• if cranes and geese flew away later than October 5, then winter will come late;
• watch the wind in the cover - if it is northern or eastern, then you have to wait for a harsh winter.

Shelter features

Shelter of clematis bushes should be moderate. If they are wrapped too tightly, there is a risk of their death due to lack of ventilation.

They can also fade due to high humidity and warm air and soil temperatures in spring. Therefore, the shelter should be removed gradually layer by layer. Shrubs should be freed from shelter when the threat of frost has passed.

If everything is done correctly, then the wintering of plants will be easy and they will delight with abundant flowering.