Installing a door trim. All about extensions for interior doors Telescopic extensions for interior doors dimensions

When the thickness of the wall on which the door is to be installed is more than 140 mm, it is necessary to use a telescopic extension. It is a simple panel that has special grooves on the side ends. This is necessary because of the need for a strong docking with the door frame.

In the case when the wall thickness is large, it is necessary to make an addition of non-standard parameters. It is very important that telescopic extensions, platbands have the same color as the door leaf.

At the same time, platbands and extensions should have an attractive appearance, be of high quality and durable.

Benefits of add-ons:

• high speed of installation of the door block, which is expanded with extensions;
• no need for wall decoration;
• beautiful appearance.

Especially often the need to install extensions arises when there are chips, cracks or protruding wires on the opening. Thus, it is easy to make the doorway aesthetic and airtight.

Types of extensions

Doboras, like platbands, can be made independently, but it is better to use ready-made products, which quite often come with the door system.

Dobory for interior doors have several types:

• telescopic;
• simple with an edge;
• simple without edges.

Simple extensions with and without an edge are a straight bar with even cuts. It is better to purchase a product with an edge, otherwise the platband will not completely close the cut, which will reduce the attractiveness of the door structure. Such dobors are attached to a section of an uncovered wall.

Telescopic models include new types of products with a groove that provides a secure and tight fit. That is, the extension interlocks with the door frame or platbands, which is a huge advantage.

This type of extension is made by analogy with the lining rail, which has a groove and a comb on different sides. They have different sizes of width, which varies from 90 to 150 mm.

What are supplements made from?

As a raw material for the manufacture of dobors, a tongue-and-groove or edged board is used. All materials for extensions are pasted over with a special decorative film.

If the product is selected for the large dimensions of the adjacent wall, then BS waterproof plywood will be the best choice. It is also suitable for rooms with high humidity.

It is very advantageous to use ready-made additional boards, which are made of MDF and have a special protective coating. Factory products have standard sizes, and if the walls in the building are very thick, then type-setting extensions can be used. For such cases, you will need additional planks with a tongue-and-groove lock made from an MDF plank.

On the inside of the door frame there is a special recess in which the extensions are placed. When they need to be installed on an already installed door, special attachments are usually used. This installation of extensions is perfect for a room with a moderate level of temperature and with normal humidity. They are mounted on high-quality door leafs. Less often they use extensions that need to be slipped under the door frame.

Installation of extensions

Smooth walls in a room are a rarity. Most often, a wedge forms between the wall and the door, because of this, the markup of the extension is carried out when the installation of the door is completed. In addition, each bar is measured separately.

When a wedge is obtained during marking, it is necessary to cut out the extension. Therefore, when marking, it is necessary to observe the utmost accuracy and care. If you do the work yourself, then you need to fix the marking line to avoid displacement.

Dobors are connected by the letter "P" in three ways:

• when the top bar is located between the vertical extensions;
• with support on the racks of the crossbars;
• cut at a 45 degree angle.

If the installation of extensions is done by one's own hands without the help of specialists, then it is better not to consider the last installation option. It is designed for professionals with experience in such work and a saw with the function of turning the saw blade.

Even a small chip can spoil all the efforts to install the extension, so you need to carefully monitor the cleanliness in the process. In this case, the design can be assembled separately or in a finished U-frame.

Telescopic extensions require that the architraves are tightly installed in the groove. The platbands do not need an additional additive for glue or foam. If it ever becomes necessary to remove the platbands, then it will be easiest to do this if you initially glue them on liquid nails.

Now I will install the extension on this door. The dobor will be telescopic. For those who don't know, here it is in the cut.

Here is such a groove. There is a groove in the doborny bar. And on the cashing there is such a spike. Cashing has such a profile.

What is it for? That's when we put an addition, then the cash is inserted into it. And we can adjust the distance within this pass. About half an inch.

Now, if we have, for example, this distance is not 8 centimeters, that's how it is here. And there from 5 to 15 millimeters, we can cash out right away without any extra. This box is certainly not telescopic. This door has been around for a long time. This is a simple box. In general, in telescopic boxes there are passes here. Immediately, so that the cash can be mounted there.

Where do I start installing the add-on. First I saw off in height. First, I end up the bottom, then here I make a mark with a clerical knife and saw off 1 millimeter shorter.

Then, I take a square and measure this distance from the box to the edge. And add more depth to the groove. In this case, it is 1 centimeter. And I do the markup on the back. Here is the line.

Well, here we must take into account that it is necessary to saw off from the side where it will be inserted into the box. Because this region cannot be spoiled. Well, here I expect the additional plank to be somewhere a couple of millimeters less than to the plane of the wall itself. Because it doesn't matter here. I can adjust these 2-3, even 5 millimeters with this cashing spike. If the usual additional strips, then on the contrary, I make the width of the additional strip 1 millimeter larger. For what? That cashing in any case is enough. And you need to measure. The walls are not always level, so I measure at several points. Well, about 4. Up, around here and down here.

If the wall is approximately flat, you can at 3 points. And I adjust, thus, the left and right additional bar. Then I mount the top one on top of them, right on them. I saw off the whole thing with a jigsaw. You can use a circular saw with some kind of parquet or mini-circular. The top bar, I mark like this.

Here I put it like this so that this edge of it is even before the beginning of the groove. Here I also mark out, right in the groove. Knife once and for all. Then I turn it over and paste it like this. And here we already make labels, as it were, in width. Because there is a different left edge and right. This is how we make labels. Here and here. Like this.

And then I draw and cut.

Dobor installation

So, now that all our typesetting strips are prepared, sawn off, we put them in place.

Here, so that the plane coincides. I check it with my fingers.

So, there is a right angle and up to the groove. Here's what we get.

Like this. Why do you have to do it this way? So that when we insert cash, nothing here sticks out or interferes. And this corner will tighten up with us, that's how it will be. Here he is.

That is how it should be. This plane also coincides. There she is. Here too here. Everything matches.

In the case when, for example, a gap is formed in this corner. Well, there is no foam, for example, to rest. Here I am drilling and screwing screws. They are, as it were, an emphasis, and they prop up this whole corner. That's all. Now we will mount them. To do this, first I moisten this case so that the foam disperses better. It expands more evenly.

Because foam expands when exposed to moisture. So, we take foam. And with such cakes I go through the entire perimeter.

Now I take masking tape wide from me. And I fix the gain. I make sure that there is a right angle.

And so around the perimeter. This is how I recorded it all. After about one hour, everything can be withdrawn and cashed in. I will do the same on this side as well. From the edge and from above. Everything, dobory will be ready. This mount is sufficient. There is no load here. No mechanical fasteners are required here. Here is the whole set ready. You can say now it will freeze and that's it. Propenil, fixed.

Why do I do these dots, and not all over. Two reasons. First, saving foam. Secondly, it is a guarantee that the extensions will not be squeezed out by an arc. Because the foam has room to expand into free space. That's all. The addition has been made. This is done for a short time within 10-15 minutes. Now I will make an addition on the other door. During this time, the foam will cool down and it will be possible to start cashing out.

Cashing out installation

Here our dobros froze. I cut the foam, removed the tape. Now I'm going to cash out. But I will put it here at an angle of 45 degrees.

In general, telescopic cashing, as a rule, is cut like this at a right angle here. And from the top, the cash goes in here, like this.

But, since cashing is already installed on this door like this. So this also needs to be done on this side. How to mark up. This is how I take it and here I put a half mark with a knife. Like this. Everything, I cut off here and here.

I put the top one first. Then I also substitute the vertical ones overlapping like this. So here I put it and make a mark. This is how it stands, for example. And I times her.

So I put a label. Here she is, barely visible. And I cut everything. First, of course, you need to trim the bottom, and then I applied liquid nails right here on this edge. Right here. Here on this road edge, like this.

Here, here and all the way. And I'll slap her. Because if you glue the entire groove. This glue will fill everywhere, and it will be almost impossible to remove it. It is already tight there and you just need to fix it a little bit. You can apply glue here. On the wall straight ahead, a few points. This will be enough.

We insert everything. Maybe a little between them.

We mount everything.

So, here's what we ended up with. Here is such a corner.

Here you can tint with a pencil so that this seam is not visible. Strongly will not rush into the gas. And here is everything. Everything is clear and beautiful. I'll show you how to markup. Here I put it, the knife like this.

All. There is a label. Now we take the label like this, here. And at a right angle we hold the knife and carry it. That's it, now you need to cut diagonally. Everything goes to the market. The truth here, due to the fact that there is a groove, it becomes crooked. I just put a piece of wood here according to the thickness of this distance.

Here I put it and it melts evenly. And I'm sawing off.

Well, here's what we ended up with. Such is the gain. Black, hard to see, well, nothing. Now I'll show you up close.

Everything is tight, everything is smooth, no gaps. Here is the node. Everything, the door is absolutely ready.

All rights to the video belong to: Roman Zaitsev

Installing doors, especially interior doors, is not an extremely difficult task, but it involves a number of specific actions, thanks to which the door will function perfectly and look aesthetically pleasing. It often happens that when installing an interior door, ordinary or for a pencil case, an additional board is used. What it is and what it is intended for, we will consider in this article.

What it is?

The process of installing an interior door includes several stages:

• collecting a box or frame in which the door will function;
• setting and securing the box in the doorway;
• preparation of the door leaf, installation of fittings;
• installation of the canvas in the box, fitting and adjustment;
• finishing with platbands of the doorway.

Dobornik for interior doors - this is a decorative element that expands the box if it does not match the width of the opening. It seems to continue the door frame, creating a single and integral structure. Essentially, it is a 90-degree slope made of rectangular slats and a casing made of solid materials.

What do they look like?

The slats have a wide range of color options. In the vast majority of cases, they are made from the same material as the door frame with the door. Therefore, it is more profitable to purchase doborniki together with a door and a frame from one manufacturer or company. When assembled, the dobors have a U-shape.

Cloths of extensions made of wood-based materials can be with a protective edge, or their ends remain untreated. Also, a groove can be made on the edge on one side, and a spike on the other. Such extensions are a type of lining. Telescopic boxes are completed with such extensions.

Why are they needed?

Add-ons for interior doors hide all the defects of the opening, protect against mechanical influences, serve as an additional reinforcement of the frame, as well as an important decoration of the door.

The standard dimensions of the width of the door frame are 80 cm and 100 cm. If the width of the doorway is greater than these dimensions, then during installation there is free space that needs to be ennobled. You can, of course, order a box of any width that matches the dimensions of the doorway, but custom work increases the cost of the purchased product by several times compared to a standard order. And even more so when the door is made of a rare breed of wood.

It is precisely for this to close this free space and save on material, and you need such an element as extensions. They serve to create your own design, give you the opportunity to realize your imagination by choosing material, color, style and shape.

The aesthetics of the entire interior depends on a carefully made door slope.

What are the types?

Types of extensions differ in the way they are installed:

• attached;
• lining;
• combined;
• telescopic.

You can attach them to the door frame both before installation and after, when the jamb is securely installed. For fastening before installation, either small self-tapping screws or glue are used.

You can fasten the box with the dobor using thin metal plates. For example, pieces of "crocodiles" (fasteners for attaching guides) used to mount the frame under drywall.

Ways to collect extras on the box before its installation:

• To begin with, we assemble the box, sawing the guides at 90 or 45 degrees, 6 mm more than the width of the door leaf, for a working gap of 3 mm along the perimeter of the leaf. If there is no quarter-shaped groove on the guides on the back, it must first be made on a circular machine or with a cutter. Using a chisel for this job is time-consuming and requires professionalism to achieve the desired quality. The width of the quarter is chosen corresponding to the width of the extension, and the depth is about a centimeter.
• We cut off the selected extension to the width necessary to block the opening together with the box. Cut along the length of the vertical and horizontal strips so that the horizontal piece overlaps the vertical ones.
• We make formwork along the perimeter from the wrong side of the box from an even material, for example, from drywall. Why do we fasten its strips about the size of the width of the prepared extension with self-tapping screws to the box.
• Align the vertical parts of the door frame with respect to the floor at an angle of 90 degrees.
• We apply glue (any for wood or liquid nails) into the groove, insert the extension, adjust it so that there are no gaps. From above, for the fortress, you can tighten the parts of the extension with self-tapping screws, be sure to drill holes with a thin drill for the entire length of the self-tapping screw so that the canvas does not swell or crack. Then we leave to dry. As soon as it dries, the formwork is removed and the jamb is mounted.

Can be done without glue. Planks are prepared in the same way. On the back side of the box, where the quarter is located, plates are screwed, extensions are inserted and fastened with short self-tapping screws.

If there is no groove, you can cut panels from the selected material with a width corresponding to the width of the opening to be covered. Assemble a box from the extensions, and insert the door jamb inside. This can only be done if the extension is thin, or if the distance for mounting the whole assembly allows, and the trim is wide enough to cover the mounting seam.

Methods for installing extensions on a mounted box are used when there is an already installed jamb with a door, and the box has a quarter for extension.

Method one:

• This area is freed from foam and thoroughly cleaned.
• Using a tape measure and a corner, measure the distance from the recess in a quarter to the end of the opening, in several places around the entire perimeter.
• Cut to length and width of workpiece. They are inserted into the groove, and in this place the extensions are supported in several places to the box, for example, with a bicycle thermometer or pieces of hardened foam, polystyrene. After that, they are wedged so that there are no gaps and the extensions stand at 90 degrees relative to the plane of the door.
• Construction foam is applied only to the part that is at the point of contact. After the foam hardens, you can process the entire slope with it. It is better to use foam with a small coefficient of expansion for mounting. If there is no groove, then the dobor cloth is slipped under the box, wedged and foamed.

The second method, which is used if it is not possible to put the extension on the foam, and the thickness of the extension allows you to drill through it:

• We make several holes in the dobor bar. Three holes are enough in the horizontal bar, and four holes in the vertical bar. In the place of the holes, with a drill of a larger diameter, we make indentations to drown the heads of the self-tapping screws.
• Using a tape measure and a corner, we measure the distance from the box to the edge of the opening. According to the largest size, cut off the width of the extension. A prerequisite: the dimensions at the junction of one plank with another, that is, in the corners, must be the same.
• We cut out small even rectangular bars from the material at hand and slip them under the box in the places of fasteners. We drive self-tapping screws into the planks, apply them to the box, press them against the bars and pull them with a screwdriver, making sure that there are no gaps at the joints. This can be done if the width of the extension is not more than 20 cm. In the same way, you can assemble the box before installing it.

Method three:

• A thin rail, like a glazing bead, is nailed onto the box, no larger than 10/10 mm in size around the entire perimeter. If there is no rail, then at a distance of about 5 mm from the inner edge of the box, self-tapping screws are screwed around the perimeter or nails are driven in. The hats are cut off with a grinder, leaving the pins about a centimeter.
• The extensions are prepared in the above way, wedged and more spacers are added between the side extensions in the place where the nails were nailed and from the floor to the horizontal extension. It is better to fix the extensions with masking tape from one wall to another through the opening. And in the same way they foam.

The fourth method is the crate of an open opening:

• For this, blocks are prepared no thicker than the gap between the opening and the box, or a little thicker, but in this case, a line is drawn around the entire perimeter of the box at the same distance for a guide. Any length, as long as it does not crack during installation. Width from the box to the edge of the opening.
• They are mounted on dowels to concrete and brick, using a building level and a corner. Dobors are prepared in the same way. Attach to the bars on liquid nails. After drying, you can foam for soundproofing.

Method five:

• It is possible to fasten the extensions directly to the opening with liquid nails, if they cover the mounting seam with their thickness. To do this, glue is applied pointwise to the opening. They take a bar a meter and a half, apply it to the slope and use a mallet to level the plane. Secure with masking tape until dry.
• Clamps can be used to secure the extensions to the box. To do this, prepare extensions in length and width, assemble a box from them, apply liquid nails to the end, apply to the jamb and tighten with clamps until dry.

Telescopic

This type of extensions is assembled as a constructor. It is advisable to use a cutting milling machine in your work. Without it, it is quite difficult to make cuts at 45 degrees using a simple miter box for this. Therefore, when assembling the box at 90 degrees, it is necessary to ensure that the groove for the addition at the junction is solid. Dobors are inserted into it, having a spike on one side, and on the other, a groove into which the casing is inserted.

The depth of the groove is 15 mm, which makes it possible to "walk" in size in width when purchasing or adjusting the additional and cashing. The steps for measuring, cutting and fastening are the same as for straight planks.

Their convenience lies in the fact that they are easily assembled together, and make it possible to cover any distance.

Combined

Combined types of doborniks are corner strips made of fiberboard, MDF, PVC - they are both an addition and a cashing out. Use this type of additional slats with insufficient overlap distance. Attached mainly to liquid nails.

Dimensions

Standard sizes of extensions on the market:

• thickness 6-30 mm;
• width 50 -250 mm;
• length 2100 mm.

Width of telescopic panels 90, 120, 150 mm. A quarter on the box for addition is most often 10/10 mm, so the thickness of the bar is 1 cm.

The required plank width is the width of the opening minus the width of the door frame, plus a quarter, if any. Additional boards can be prepared by hand. Such an item of non-standard sizes can be made to order.

An interior door separates one room from another and is part of the interior, so it should have a beautiful appearance. From how beautifully decorated the doorway, the impression of the room is created, since it is he who first catches the eye of the incoming person. Since the thickness of the wall is usually much greater than the width of the box, after installing the door, there remains a part of the opening that must be hidden. For these purposes, special decorative elements are used - extensions.

What is an extension for interior doors

In most cases, the thickness of the wall is greater than the width of the door frame. More recently, when replacing the box, it was necessary to carry out construction work in order to somehow ennoble the uncovered part of the opening. First, the slopes were plastered, after which they were primed, painted or covered with wallpaper. Such work requires certain skills and takes a lot of time. Now, to close the slopes of interior doors, extensions are most often used.

The extension is a decorative strip up to 10 mm thick and about 2 m long, which on one side has the same finish as the installed door. The width of the extension is chosen in each case separately, depending on the size of the door frame. Installation of this element takes a little time, any home master can do it. After installing the extensions, the doorway acquires a beautiful finished look and harmoniously fits into the interior of the room.

Dobory allow you to give the doorway a beautiful and finished look.

The door fitting must meet several parameters:

• be made of the same material as the doors;
• match the color of the door;
• have the required width.

In addition to the fact that the additional strips perform an aesthetic role, hiding the defects of the slopes, they also help to strengthen the door frame.

Usually dobors are made of the following materials:

• natural board;
• laminated chipboard;
• plywood.

A large selection of colors and shades allows you to choose extensions that match the door frame so that the whole structure looks like a single whole.

Types and types of additional elements

Although extensions do not differ in great variety by type of construction, before buying, you need to familiarize yourself with their types and features:

1. Ordinary. These are just slats made of MDF, chipboard or laminate. Eco-veneer is most often used as a coating, a decorative edge is usually made at the end, although there are also raw planks. If there is no edge film on your extension, you can glue it yourself using an iron. It is better to do this, because the edge will help hide surface defects and protect the material from moisture so that it does not swell. The standard length of the additional plank is 200-220 cm, and the width is 100, 150 or 200 mm. Experts recommend buying products with a thickness of at least 10 mm. The main advantage of conventional dobors is their low cost.

   The usual dobor is a decorative bar of given sizes

2. Telescopic. Such elements, according to the method of fastening, are similar to lining, that is, they have grooves for fastening to each other and with platbands. They can have a different color, differ in the way of finishing and are made from the same materials as regular extensions.

   With the help of a telescopic extension, it is possible to close slopes of any width.

3. Combined. They combine dobor and platband. The combined extension is a corner that is installed in special grooves in the door frame. The disadvantage of this solution is that it is impossible to close wide piers with them. But if after installing the door there is 2–5 cm of open space left, then combined extensions are the best option.

   Combined elements combine the platband and dobor

The height of the extension corresponds to the dimensions of the door and is usually 200–220 cm. The thickness of the plank should be such that it fits snugly into the groove of the door frame. Usually the groove size is 10 mm, so the additional elements are made the same. Since the thickness of the walls can be different, they produce extensions with a width of 30 to 200 mm and more.

The additional plank can have a width of 30 to 200 mm and even more

If in apartments doorways and wall thicknesses have standard values, then in private houses this is not always the case. Ready-made extensions are often not suitable here, so if the doors and the frame are made to order, then you must immediately complete them with the appropriate decorative strips. If this is not possible, then you can simply dock several additional elements with each other. To get the desired width of the bar, it can be sawn with a regular hacksaw. When joining several extensions on the front side, it is imperative to leave a groove into which you can then insert the casing.

How to correctly calculate

In order to purchase additional sizes of the required sizes, you first need to correctly calculate them. This is easy to do, so you can do everything yourself:

Calculation example: wall width is 250 mm. You have purchased a box with a thickness of 70 mm, which means that you need an extension with a width of 180 mm. Since the nearest standard size is 200 mm, it is necessary to purchase just such extensions. Excess width is sawn off with a hacksaw.

When installing a type-setting or telescopic extension, choose the width of the slats to get the required size.

Installation of extensions for interior doors

Before proceeding with the installation of extensions, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. All dirt, excess foam is removed from the opening so that they do not interfere with installation.

For work you will need:

Before proceeding with the installation of extensions, it is necessary to secure the door block well.

Installation of conventional extensions

The order of installation of simple extensions:

1. Cut out the material. Using a jigsaw or hand saw, cut the strips of the required length and width.

   Dobors can be cut with both a conventional hacksaw and a power tool

2. The groove in the box is cleaned of debris, otherwise you will not be able to install the extensions correctly.
3. First, insert the top bar, carefully level it and fill the gap with mounting foam.

   The top bar is installed first.

4. The side bars are fixed in a similar way.

   Side rails are mounted after installing the top element

Often, ordinary extensions are fixed with self-tapping screws. To do this, holes are made in the canvas, after which they are screwed to the wall. This work is easier to do if the opening is framed with wooden bars. After installing the screws, they select the plugs to match the extensions and close the heads of the screws with them.

Installation of telescopic elements

The process of installing telescopic extensions is not very different from the previous version. If you want to close a wide wall and the width of one extension is not enough, then you need to connect several planks. Some craftsmen first connect the planks, getting the required width, and only then mount them. If you are doing this for the first time, then it is better to first fix one plank, and after the foam has hardened, another. Although the work will take a little longer, since the drying of the foam during the fastening of each element takes time, the result will be more accurate and of high quality.

The groove in the telescopic extension allows you to adjust its width

Mounting order:

Video: connecting telescopic extensions

Installation of combined extensions

With the help of combined extensions, it is easiest to sew up slopes. For their fasteners, you do not need to use mounting foam.

The work is done in the following order:

If you do not have experience in performing such work, then it will take no more than 30 minutes to finish one doorway with combined extensions, and professionals can do it in 15 minutes. But although the installation process of combined extensions is simple, everything must be done carefully and efficiently. With improper installation of extensions, even the most expensive interior doors will look unattractive.

Incorrectly installed extensions can spoil the look of even the most expensive door, so the work must be done carefully and responsibly.

Non-standard situations

Very often there are situations when the doorway has significant deviations from the horizontal and vertical.

1. Expansion of the doorway to the outer edge. It is impossible to bend the dobor, as it will begin to break, but it is necessary to hide the slope. In this case, the creation of a frame of wooden blocks, plywood and drywall will help. Thus, an additional even wall is created, which is then closed with an extension.
2. Skew the box vertically or horizontally. In this case, you can trim the additional elements to existing sizes, but you won’t be able to get a beautiful result. It is better to dismantle the door frame and install it correctly.
3. The walls are sloped. If it is not more than 5 mm, then it can be corrected with plaster applied under the casing. In other cases, wedges must be used.

How to eliminate gaps after installing extensions

After the additional elements have been installed, the resulting gaps are eliminated with the help of mounting foam. It must be remembered that when solidified, the foam expands and can bend the door frame and extensions. To prevent this from happening, the following recommendations must be observed:

Video: installation of extensions

Why do you need extras and what is it? Before answering this question, you need to remember a little, and young people to study history. As it was before? Each enterprise for the production of building materials strictly complied with the current state standards for its products. The sizes of bricks, blocks, panel slabs, etc. were regulated. e. Building organizations had standards for the thickness of the plaster. This allowed woodworking companies to produce joinery (windows and doors) with standard door frame sizes. After their installation in the openings, no additional fitting with trims was required.

Today everything is different. The vast majority of enterprises are guided not by state standards, but by their own technical conditions. This has led to the fact that the same brick or block from different manufacturers can have different sizes. Now no one can determine the thickness of the walls with certainty; it is impossible to make several standard sizes of door and window frames. The solution was found simple and effective. The box is made with the minimum allowable width, which guarantees its physical strength, and the missing width, depending on the thickness of the walls, is made up by installing extensions.

Due to the fact that most modern door frames are made of MDF in order to reduce costs, the same material is also used during the manufacture of extensions. There are, however, door frames and extensions made of natural wood, but they are rare and much more expensive. The principles of installing wooden and MDF extensions are no different.

Extensions - ordinary MDF boards, have a width of 100 mm to 200 mm, are produced by door manufacturers, have the same color and texture as the doors. According to the constructive device, they can be ordinary (simple) and adjustable. Simple extensions rest against the L-shaped cutout in the sidewalls of the box, adjustable with the box have a tenon / groove connection. This allows you to precisely adjust the protrusion after taking the preliminary dimensions and preparing the extensions. In addition, the presence of the connection somewhat simplifies and speeds up the foaming process.

We will look at installation methods for both types of extensions, starting with simple ones.

Prices for extras

Installation of simple extensions

Simple extensions can be joined with foam (the fastest way), studs and self-tapping screws (the longest way). Choose on your own the method that seems most appropriate to you, experienced builders install extensions only on foam. The method of installing extensions has almost no effect on the reliability of fastening the platbands, and the work is greatly simplified and accelerated.

Adjustable extensions are installed only on the foam.

Measurement and preparation of additions

The technological task of the extensions is to serve as a platform for attaching trim. In order for the architraves to lie correctly, the end of the extensions must lie on the same line with the plane of the wall. Measurements should be made on an already installed door frame. Dimensioning is done in the following ways.

Now we need to find out the height of the left and right elements and the length of the horizontal element. At the top of the box, the extensions are connected with the letter P, keep this in mind when taking measurements.

You can cut off the additional boards with a hand saw, electric jigsaw, portable electric saw or on a stationary machine. The latter option is preferable - work is much accelerated, their accuracy is increased and the risks of chipping are minimized.

First, cut the blanks along the length, then on each make width marks at the ends. Draw a straight, even line and carefully cut off the excess. It is better to draw a straight line with the same extensions; you don’t have to look for even and long wooden slats. At the place of the cut, you need to remove a small chamfer, so the board will fit snugly against the door frame.

Jigsaw prices

jigsaw

Video - Measurement of extensions

All elements are prepared, you can proceed with their installation. Let's start with the most difficult method and finish with the simplest.

Installation of dobors on self-tapping screws

Step 1. On the extensions, make a sweat under the screws.

The thickness of the MDF boards is 10 millimeters; for melting, you need to take a drill with a diameter of no more than 9 millimeters. The exact diameter should be consistent with the diameter of the head of the self-tapping screws. The diameter of the caps, in turn, varies with their length. The length of the self-tapping screws is selected so that they enter the door frame for two or three turns, otherwise it may crack.

It is desirable that the drills were under the tree, they have thin needle protrusions at the end, which allow you to more accurately center the hole and prevent the drill from moving during drilling.

Important. Always leave at least 1.5 mm of board thickness on the side of the front part of the extension, there is nothing to worry about if the hole for the flush completely drills out the wall of the extension from the back side. The depth of sweating is regulated by the length of the self-tapping screws, the main condition, as we have already mentioned, is that they must be screwed into the box by no more than two or three turns. In total, it is enough to install 4 screws for the long vertical part, make the same number of holes.

Step 2 Drill holes for self-tapping screws. The diameter of the drill must match the diameter of the screws. Drilling these holes is somewhat more difficult, you need a "keep" eye and skill.

How to drill them?

1. It is better to drill holes on the reverse side of the holes for sweat.
   Very important. Drilling will not need to be perpendicular to the plane of the board, but at a slight angle. This is done so that the self-tapping screw has a direction towards the center of the door frame - the possible risks of its cracking on the front part are reduced. If the end of the self-tapping screw comes out from the back of the box, there is nothing to worry about.

   

2. Place the drill perpendicular to the plane of the addition, exactly opposite the hole for the sweat.
3. Drill a few millimeters deep, turn off the drill. Set the drill bit to the desired angle and continue drilling until the end of the bit shows up in the hole for the flush.

   

   

We have already mentioned that this method is the most difficult, we do not recommend using it. But, if someone has convinced you, then we will continue to talk about him. Prepare all the elements of the add-ons in the described way.

Step 3 Insert self-tapping screws into the holes and scroll them until the ends appear on the opposite side.

Step 4 First screw the vertical extensions, then the horizontal one. If the self-tapping screw is tight, do not apply much force, unscrew it a few turns, and then tighten it again.

Step 5 Check the position of the extensions, if there are places with a loose fit to the door frame - press them with any materials at hand.

Step 6 Prevent bending of the extensions with mounting foam.

To do this, you can fix them in two ways: with construction paper tape or spacers. Construction tape has high tensile strength in the perpendicular direction and calmly holds the force of the foam. If the wall is smooth - use carpenter's tape, stick it to the extension and the wall in three or four places on the vertical elements and in two or three on the horizontal.

If the tape does not stick to the wall, use spacers. They can be made from wooden slats. The length of the rail should be 1÷2 centimeters shorter than the width of the doors. In the future, the spacers are pressed with various linings.

Step 7 Fill the gap between the wall and the extensions with mounting foam.

Very important. It is rare to find responsible builders who, before foaming any structures, clean them of dust and wet the surfaces. And the foam has very weak adhesion to dry surfaces, there is nothing to say about dust and dirt. Try to touch the fresh foam with a wet finger - then you won’t wash it off with anything.

For foaming, use any foam, extensions are not a door frame, they do not carry any load, you can use the cheapest brands. The main thing - do not leave passes. If the gap between the wall and the extension is narrow and deep, fit various extensions to the nozzle. For very thin gaps, we used cocktail tubes - we taped them with tape to the existing exit from the foam can and worked. This design, however, is a one-time use, but you don’t need more.

Step 8 Wait at least 24 hours for the foam to cool, cut off the excess with a sharp mounting knife. Check by tapping the stability of the position of the extensions. Problem areas are found - add foam to them.

Prices for mounting foam

polyurethane foam

Video - Installing dobors on self-tapping screws

Everything, on this work on the installation of extensions is completed, you can start working with

Installation of dobors on carnations

In this section, we will talk about another way to measure extensions. They need to be inserted in turn into the seats of the door frame and, using the sharp side of the rule, draw a wall line.

You must act carefully. If you inserted additional elements in the position in which they will be fixed, then the marked line must be symmetrically transferred to the other side of the board and cut off only along it. But you can insert the board in a rotated form, then the line will immediately be in its place. Further, all cutting operations are identical to those described above.

Step 1. With a drill of small diameter (should correspond to the diameter of the finishing nails no more than one millimeter), drill holes at a distance of approximately 20 cm in the end of the extension adjacent to the door frame.

In the photo - the finishing nail next to the finisher

Important. Carefully drill, keep the drill strictly in a vertical position. The depth of the holes should be 3 ÷ 5 millimeters less than the length of the studs.

Step 2 Insert the nails into the drilled holes as far as they will go. Before this, you need to bite off the caps with wire cutters, the carnations are inserted with the sharp end outward.

Step 3 Carefully insert each element of the extension into its place in the door frame in turn. Using a hammer, drive the sharp protruding ends of the nails into the door frame through the wooden gasket. Do not rush, before fixing, firmly press the additional element to the side of the protruding seat of the box. If you are inattentive and miss the gap, you will have to remove the additional element and start all over again or seal the gap with sealant to match the door. Both options are highly undesirable. In the first case, because you have to pull out the “wrong” nail and drill a hole for it in another place. The fact is that the wrong mount is a few tenths of a millimeter from the right one. And in this case, the nail will never make a new hole for itself, but will always slip into the existing one. In the second case, any sealing of cracks with sealant will not go unnoticed and will indicate the low professionalism of the performer.

Step 4 Wedge the extensions on the reverse side, with tape or spacers, fix their position from bursting with foam.

Step 5 Clean the surfaces from dust and dirt, moisten them with an ordinary water spray (spray gun).

Step 6 Blow out the gap with sealant over the entire plane. After the foam has cooled, carefully cut off the protruding part.

Video - Installing dobors on carnations

We deliberately left the easiest way for last, this will give you the opportunity to compare all the described methods and make the right choice. Marking and cutting out elements is no different from the first two.

And then everything is simple. Put the extensions in place, wedge them from the inside until the surfaces are completely pressed against the seats of the door frame, prevent bursting with adhesive tape or spacers and foam after cleaning and wetting the surfaces. As you can see, there are no steps, drillings and clogging. Why do we recommend using this method?

1. The strength of such an installation is no different from complex methods.
2. You never run the risk of ruining the extensions while drilling holes or driving in studs for one simple reason - there are no holes or studs.
3. During the time that the “big” specialist drills holes for screws or nails, you yourself will completely install the extensions on two door frames with the same quality of work.

We compared how much less technological operations, how much less risk of damage to extensions and the door frame, and how much more benefits? Now make a decision.

Video - Installing foam extensions

Installation of adjustable extensions

Adjustable extensions have several advantages.

1. The connection of the elements in a tongue/groove allows you to tightly press the elements with visible planes. The appearance of cracks is completely excluded, there is no need to wedge them.

   

2. The extensions can be moved in the door frame up/down or out/in. These few "free" millimeters allow you to precisely adjust their location and compensate for possible errors during measurement or sawing.

   

   

Such extensions also have a drawback - they cannot be installed without a stationary circular. The fact is that only on a stationary circular saw can a spike of the desired thickness and depth be cut on the additional elements.

How are they installed?

Step 1. Take measurements, while taking into account the depth of the groove on the door frame. You can measure it and add it to the obtained width values, or you can take a piece of thin plywood or a ruler, insert it into the groove and measure the width of the extensions in this position. Take measurements in several places around the entire perimeter of the doorway, the walls are often uneven.

Step 2 Designate the left and right extensions and transfer the dimensions to the blanks.

Important. In order to further simplify the installation of all elements, reduce their width by 2÷3 millimeters. This stock will make it possible to move the extensions in the grooves in the right direction.

Step 3 Cut the blanks to length and width.

Step 4 Set the stop of the circular saw to the width of the tenon, raise the saw table in such a way that the desired height of the tenon is provided. Put the extension on the edge and carefully cut out the spike.

Step 5. In the same way, prepare all the remaining elements of the extensions.

Further, everything is simple. Install them in place, align at the joints and along the plane of the wall. To prevent cracks, stick construction tape to the wall and extensions, clean the surfaces from dirt and dust, moisten them and foam them. The presence of a tongue/groove connection eliminates the need for wedging, the extensions keep their size perfectly and are tightly pressed against the door frame.

Video - Installing adjustable extensions

During the installation of extensions, do not create unnecessary problems and difficulties for yourself, use only the third simplest method - mounting on foam. Why?

1. Firstly, pull-out efforts never act on the extensions; in any case, they will reliably hold the platbands.
2. Secondly, the studs only play the role of reliably pressing the extensions to the door frame, and do not keep them from tearing out. Ordinary wedges made of foam, paper and other improvised materials cope with the same task no worse.
3. Thirdly, any "drilling" in thin boards of extensions and in the door frame can cause cracks to appear on the front side. You will have to change the dobor or repair the box.

And the first, and the second, and the third nobody needs. Why are there the first two installation methods? We think that this is one of the most effective methods of undeserved salary increases for unscrupulous builders. They importantly declare to customers that for such complex work you need to pay the appropriate amounts.

It is not necessary to nail the horizontal addition to the vertical ones in the corners of the joints, it is already perfectly pressed with foam. If you are worried, press it in these places with any wedges. Extra studs in thin extensions - an extra chance to see a hole on the front, and this is a direct marriage in the work.

Do not pinch planks together

You can find advice before installing extensions in the door frame to connect all the elements with the letter P. We do not recommend doing this for two reasons.

1. First, it does not reduce, but increases the installation time.
2. Secondly, the connection is “flimsy”, during the movement and installation of the structure, the carnations will still move away a little and a gap will appear between the horizontal and vertical extensions. In any case, it will need to be eliminated on the spot.
3. Thirdly, the design may warp so much during transportation that the studs will violate the integrity of the front side of the extensions. This is a very unpleasant situation; it will never be possible to repair a crack “to its original state”. An experienced master will always see a problem area.

And the last tip. Sometimes there are times when you have to invite the help of a master. You install several door extensions yourself, and the master must install several. Perhaps you want to finish this stage of the construction of the bath as soon as possible, or there is not enough time, the vacation is ending, but you want to finish the decoration of the bath as soon as possible, the reasons may be different.

The master has come - look what tools he has. If they are dirty, it immediately catches your eye that they are not looked after - refuse the services of such a master. If among his tools you saw sealants for gaps, shake the hand of the “craftsman” and send him back. Modern MDF doors must be installed so accurately that the presence of gaps only indicates carelessness, inexperience or irresponsibility of the master.

Video - Installing an extension on the door